I can't pick which one I like more, the 7 element is better "value", but the 8 being the collector piece bumps it up in an unfair way that doesn't really resonate in the photo's. What do you guys think? Full RAW files linked in the description, check them out for a closer look at the images.
I've always heard the 7 element tak is sharper, specially the SMC one, but I gotta say that in this test, the 8 element looks a tiny bit sharper. However, I do feel the CA is worst with the older version too, so....I'd call it a tie
@@shinzychan5117 I think it's just a 7 element one. However, a "hybrid" version does exist, is has the infra red focus mark to the right, the A and M marks are there too, but the rear element doesn't protrude as it does in the 8 element version.
I had once the 7 el SMC version, but was disappointed. Between f1,4 and f2,8 the sharpness was unacceptable for my taste. Even at f5,6-8, was outperformed by my Sup. Tak 35mm f3,5. Probably was a defective one.
I remember watching this during the "dark times" and really enjoying it. Nice to come back to it in better days, decided to treat myself to a 7 element version! I clearly didn't listen to your no more takumars mantra at the end ha.
I’ve got the 7, picked it up for $45 USD on EBay + $5 shipping. Absolutely fantastic on my Fuji XE2. So compact, so easy to shoot. My go-to lens for kid photos and daily walkabouts. You first made a video about them a while back, which inspired me to get it. Thanks!
There were 4 variants of these lenses. There were two "Super Takumar" versions, early with 8 elements, later with 7 elements, both labeled as "Super Takumar". The older, 8-element version was non-radioactive, while all the later versions used thoriated (radioactive) glass. The lens on the left here is the third version, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, released after the 7-element "Super Takumar". The Super-Multi-Coated Takumar was then replaced by SMC Takumar. Aside from the first 8-element version, they were all radioactive.
Michael M. They seemed to have kept the radiated design through to the Pentax K lenses. They turn a different color than yellow though, so it’s tricky to spot color shift with multi-coating.
Art Tafil yes, and the thoriated rear element will show a different type of discoloration because of the difference in multi-coating. My point, is that all the 50mm 1.4 lenses remained radiated through to the SMC Pentax-K design.
2:02 that mean that the 8 elem. lens has less red deviation (and presumably, less total (red, blue, green) spherical aberration at 1,4) This translate in a slightly smoother bokeh , like in 4:44 (overcorrected sph. aberration generates a more nervous, sometimes "double lined" bokeh) And as the 8 elem. is a kind of mix between double gauss and sonnar (heavy curved back cemented triplet, and sph. aberration typically undercorrected) , that softer bokeh makes sense
The cleaner natural image I think is what sold me on it. The 7 you have to bump the exposure by 1/3 of a stop because the yellowing impacts the light transmission too. 7 is still fantastic value and you can reverse the yellowing with UV light exposure. The 8 though, 1960's and it's the "planar killer" so that would be my ultimate choice.
Loved this episode! Your interior test / comparison shots are super creative so this was just as good as any other video if not better in some ways due to the controlled environment throughout!
Fantastic comparison video! I just bought an EBay 7 element and can't wait to use it. I will however keep my eye open for the 8 element versions at the markets.
You made a cinematic lens review without the use of 120 or 60p, I love those out of focus foreground shots you do! I would love a video on that! Well done!
Mark, I freaking love your content. I recently bought a Helios 44-2 and am in LOVE. All because of your videos. I have been eyeing the Super Takumar for awhile now. After watching this video for the 3rd time, I think I'm ready to commit. Keep kicking butt!
The yellow one in this photo is actually the “clean” lens. When you look inside the one on the left you can see the yellow tint, how it reflects a more burgundy hue than the one on the left. The super multi coating is my guess.
Yifan Tang the thoriated elements are only found in the rear group. The front element is coated with a really cool reflective yellow tint! The yellow coating is easy to scratch though... don’t ask me how I know :(.
@@barrycohen311 21 micro-sieverts per hour on the one I tested. Carried in a pocket for a day trip would be a couple x-rays worth of gamma. That's why I prefer the 8 element.
Actually, I remembered wrong. It was 3.6 uS from the front and 15 micro-sieverts from the back. For me it's easily worth the extra for the 8 element non-rad lens.
Thanks mate! Ya the 7 is sitll one of the best value lenses out there. Such a nice feeling and looking lens. I had heard so much about the 8 element I figured after so long i should just get one when an opportunity presented itself. Hope you're keeping safe during these times mate.
Nice video. At 4:46 ... the projector image side by side...it seems the 8 element pushes a bit more blur. I'd clean up a radioactive lens personally. After all, I am paying for that f/1.4 aperture. Why lose a stop.
There's a sweet spot not talked about enough. It's the SMC Takumar 50mm 1.4 with 8 blades. Mine arrived today, and typically, you're home, the light is fading, you're aiming it wide open at ISO 200 hopefully on an X-H1 with IBIS, checking out wide open sharpness along with living room bokeh. Maybe you got lucky and found the right combo. I had placed my watch on my knee to see if I could focus on it. It turned out to be my foreground bokeh while I focused on a yellow can in the background.Big beautiful soft balls floating in the foreground instead of the background. It only took me moments to realize the lens was sharper wide open than my Rollei Planar C.Z. 50mm 1.8 . (also on a converter to Fuji.) What kills me, is the lens looks brand new inside and out. Mint. $120 bucks. And it has that Multi Coating....I may need to buy a Pentax body....but first, it's dark, so I think I'll go stand in traffic! And by the way, my 8 element says Auto (in white,and Man.(In red)and the little red mark IS to the left of the 4. And it has the soft (rubber) focusing wheel. So, THIS lens needs to be talked about. By the way, I think YOU have it at 3:22. Your lens number, 63963655, is about a million higher than mine. I think I counted 8 blades in it.
I've had the 7 element lens for about 40+ years, and relatively recently decided to fix the colour degradation. Exposure to UV light does it, if you use sunlight you need to keep the lens cool - it will also take several weeks.
You did it once again, terrific video! I recently bought the 8 element version so cheap that I still can't believe it, now I want the 7 element SMC because...well, I have issues lol. The thing that strikes me the most is that everyone says the 8 element is not radioactive, however if you look at it, the glass definitely has a yellow tint to it. I'm barely starting my Takumar journey, I've always been a Nikkor guy, but I gotta say, this is addictive. Take care Mark!
Thanks mate, ya I saw some mention that the older 8 elements will yellow a bit, but was mentioned that it wasn't due to thorium...again it's tough to get a verifiable source on this and annotating sources is also super tricky...it's always a guy who's heard it who read it who knows a guy who knows lol.
I read long time ago about how to turn the thorium yellow element back to white. You have to put a mirror beneath the lens whit caps taken off and place it under the sun for a day or more, depending of how neutral you want the lens to become. Apparently sunlight clears the yellow tint. It might be UV lighth and then you could use an UV lamp, but I'm not sure though...
as a word of caution, doing this under a hot sun might cause the oil on the aperture blades to ooze out onto your glass, good luck getting that off if it happens.
I literally bought the lens on the right in excellent shape for $60usd with an ef adapter yesterday and then i see this video when i wake up the next day haha. can't wait to see this!
been looking to get one, and this video (BTW... awesome job!) helps a lot to chose. leaning heavy now to 7 elements as I like the character more. Thank you
Thank you Mark for being a driving force and inspiration to my photography. I recently acquired the 8element f1.4, absolute dream. Ooh yess I almost forgot, I acquired a Konica 40mm f1.8 an unusually charming pancake.
I think I've tried all versions ! They are all awesome and the 55mm f1.8 is a sleeper. After getting the Contax 50mm f1.4 I sold all the Pentax lenses. Same excellent build quality and feel, but more contrast and sharpness.
Ya the Contax lenses also have some magic pixie dust too. Been building up my set, Takumar's will always be my first love, but it's the consistent colour that has me using my Contax for my professional video work. I've heard so many people say the 55.1.8 is great, i don't doubt it. That 55mm focal length is magic in of itself.
Thank you very much. I enjoy your vintage lens videos. Recently I bought a Zenit Helios 44 58mm for 40 €. Such a beautiful lens. On my 5D Mark 2 it works very good beside the 50 mm Pentacon 1.8. I can enjoy photography a it is when all is manual.
@@MarkHoltze Thank you, Mark. Yes, with the Pentacon. If I focus to infinity the rear lens reaches too much in the camera so the mirror can't swing up. I move the focus ring just a little bit in the opposite direction and it fits again :)
Hey Mark my second watch of this videos as I also decided to purchase the 8 elements. May I respectfully suggest watching Simon’s Utak video on the matter? He makes a masterful demonstration of the dreamy look that is unique to the 8 elements and that has generated such a following
I'll have a look when I can. I think at the time of producing this video i had only had it a little while and was more interested in comparing shots. I actually hate doing that because it makes what is a creative venture very technical and in the end I really don't care...do I like it or not. For me the limited edition run of it is really the power behind it, the "cult status" makes it more intriguing. Remove radioactivity and that only makes it more appealing I think. I do love hearing people articulate what they love about a lens, I'm not the best at that, my forte is in video/film production where the shots are built as sequences and other elements like blocking etc are more to think about than the optical details of the lens. Thanks for the suggestion!
last year lucky i found one 8 Element in good condition but the aputure ring lost control, but i was able to open it up found the small fault and fixed it up, very happy now.
Do you have SMC Takumar 15mm F/3.5 aspherical? Same as this 8 element 50 - money lost on each copy, limited production run, can distinguish from standard, 'spherical' version by markings on distance scale... another piece of Asahi Optical history.
@@MarkHoltze Last Takumar? I own the 28mm f3.5 M42, the 28mm f3.5 K-mount (better!), the 50mm f1.4, the 85mm f1.8 (my favorite!) and the 135mm f2.5 (excellent!). That 135mm f2.5 I'd strongly recommend you to trade your f3.5 for; maybe THAT could be your last Takumar then ( for a while) 😀. Too bad you brought this video just ahead of me looking for the 8-elements 50mm, now prices will go up even more 😉
My wife said that to me. Now I have 15 of them. If you do not have a Tele-Takumar 200mm preset ... that should be your next one. Incredible bokeh and super sharp.
Second time watching. It’s crazy how I love how you incorporate visuals, music and your commentary together. Watching your videos like it’s my online class. Hope you don’t mind☺️
@@MarkHoltze Thanks! Hope you are doing well too! I actually am. Came back to be with my family a few weeks ago before things got really bad. Not sure if you saw my latest video but I am going to be posting some more videos very soon! Im trying to turn lemons into lemonade.
Love it!!! Great review!!! Always like your tone! For you, it is so hard to pick one to like more. For me, I would say the 7 element is a better choice since I only have the 7! Stay healthy everyone!
I've recently read a lot about the legendary skateboard and music photographer Glen Friedman, who was a true passionate Pentax user: that's probably one of the reasons I like his style so much
Glen is a legend, Pentax...while not as hip as Canon and Sony today, still produce some fantastic gear....they're just so off the radar it's kind of weird.
@@MarkHoltze true, nowadays not too many people are using Pentax cameras and lenses. It's not easy to understand why: maybe marketing, maybe Ricoh acquisition or maybe product design (think about how could be good a camera whose design reminds to a Spotmatic or a K1000)
Mine is the 7 one. I know that. I have to use it more often. I just don't find the time to shoot with it at motorsport events as for grid walks its "too slow" (i am focusing) and later on never did tried. But have to find a way to use it.
You'd be surprised how good you can get shooting from the hip with it after some practice. Muscle memory helps a lot, obviously 1.4 is tough, but at 2.8 I can almost eye ball shots based on that depth of field scales for stuff that's relatively close to me. Try it with some night time/ low light stuff, might be fun!
Mark, you should really try the radioactive Canon FD 35mm f2 concave version Thorium lens. It has character and not to mention that its extremely sharp!
Interesting. I think I prefer the 7 element version. Much warmer colours for the reasons you mentioned. I guess this shows that sometimes internet hype isn’t always warranted
I get it if you feel uncomfortable with (harmless) radiation levels on the 7, or just want the actual "planar killer"...but optically.........not much of a difference to warrant the price difference. Reputation and scarcity goes a long way in the collectors field though. Only issue i don't love is the lack of light that comes through the thoriated glass that's aged. It was about 1/3 of a stop difference with same shooting settings, I always had to bump up the shutter a bit to compensated with same lighting levels.
Mark Holtze yeah man, I have a helio’s 44-2 which apparently it radioactive, but in such small amounts it’s fine. I hadn’t realised that the thoriated aging had affected it that much. 1/3 of a stop is quite a bit
I like these so much, I have both! They're both pretty much unbeatable, even by modern standards imo. I'm always floored by how nice the negatives look when I use these with film. Yeah, the radioactive one definitely has a more yellow tint. Actually very useful with films that have a cooler white balance, like Ektachrome. Almost a built in warming filter. I blame your videos for my Pentax M42 mount addiction! :-) Only need the 85mm now, and I'm done.. ish.
Found the eight element 50mm f1.4 SUPER TAKUMAR in a second hand shed, ( attached to the ASAHI- PENTAX SPOTMATIC) four month ago. I am getting good colours and fine BOUKET .
I love my 7 element Tak. No more Takumar's! - (for now)😂. Wait till you wake up at night, wet and shaking, let me tell you, its NO FUN😂😂. That's why I had to get the (Missing Link) Asahi Eltro Zeiss Takumar 500mm f4.5. The best and biggest fix I will ever have🤪 Looking forward for the comparison 👍 Stay safe.
I'm using the Pentax-A 50mm SMC f1.4 and I always thought it to be the second generation Takumar. Apparently it isn't so. Is the Takumar optically better in your opinion? I have used the Pentax quite a bit on my Fuji where it produces results that I can't reproduce with my far more expensive Fuji lenses. The pictures this little gem makes are less sharp but the bokeh is far more pronounced (it's prone to flares though) and it gives more of a dreamy/out of this world look.
Very nicely done video. I just purchased the 8-elements version. I snagged it at a good price. Condition is great! Now I need a Pentax body. I'm looking for a film body of the same production year (plus/minus a few years). I spent several hours today searching the web for information as to the production year of my 8-element lens so that I can date the lens and then find the corresponding camera body. No such luck. If you know if a good Takumar S/No. data base, please let me know. Then some blogs are saying not to use a Pentax body if the "R" on the rewind knob is painted green. Only rewind knobs that have the "R" painted in orange will be compatible. This is due to the protrusion of the rear element of the lens. If not compatible, then the rear element can be damaged - I suppose by the mirror flipping up and down. But every Spotmatic that I saw on eBay has the green "R". I'm thinking that I have the wrong information, so appreciating if you could help me out here. Thanks! Steve
I have both these lenses and they’re both lovely bits of glass but despite all of their similarities there certainly are differences between, really looking forwards to watching this to see if your copies echo the results of mine, excellent!!!
hi Mark. I have a nerdy question for you... witch adapter are you using for the SMC? the one I have (for Sony Alpha) doesn't allow the lens to focus past 2 meters: it too narrow. it has no problem with the Helios, but doesn't work the SMC Takumar. A workaround would be to use M42 to Leica M, then Leica M to Sony, but maybe you know better? thank you for any answer you might have :) cheers form Berlin Roberto
I have the luxury of having no better 50 mm lens than my Super Takumar, 50 mm; f:1.4; seven elements. I adore it, the sharpness and IQ is superb. Handling is excellent, and it does not suffer from radio active matter.
Hello Mark. Nice video. I was probably lucky to buy the Planar killer for 150€ in January (eBay auction). As an off track rant, I do not know what happened during the last months, but now I can find only crazy prices on European eBay (Covid-19 infected?). When I received my 8/7 Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4, I was surprised to notice that the front lens clearly showed some distinct yellow tint. Measured radioactivity was practically irrelevant (about 0.10 μSv/h both near the front and the rear lens). I wonder if your lens will show the same coloring after keeping it in the dark for some time. For the sake of clarity, of the eight known variations of the Planar killer, mine is IIIA or IIIB (I did not open the lens to check the helicoid...) S/N 1221802. The first two version are easily recognizable because the zero DOF marker is a red dot with a line - start of production: 1962. The second has a red diamond but there is small R next to the red infrared line. With the next two variations the height of the diaphragm ring increased from 5.5 to 6.5mm (which caused the red R to disappear) - c.a 1964 (my lens belongs to this period) On the following version, the serial number was moved from before to after "Super-Takumar" - c.a 1965 The last two versions saw the introduction of tecnopolymers in the barrel construction (helicoid rotation stop) and the printing of the distance index on an aluminium plate, glued to the focusing ring. I read somewhere that thorium coating was applied only to product numbers 37800-37801-37802 (the last three variations of Super-Takumars that were produced), so, according to this source, 37902 (Super-Multi-Coated) and 37908 (the SMC one with the rubberized aperture rings and six rows of squares focusing rings) should not be radioactive... To tell you the truth, my Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1.4 marked 37902 is extremely radioactive: about 0.6 μSv/h measured near the front and about 2.2 μSv/h (!!!) measured near rear lens -much more radioactive than the Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 35mm f/2 (1.4 μSv/h near the rear lens) or the Super-Takumars 55mm f/1.8 (0.55 μSv/h near the rear lens). It would be interesting to know if the last version of this lens (eg. the one appearing in the Armando Ferreira video here ruclips.net/video/SgwdiHLYTdY/видео.html) is radioactive or not. Anybody with a Geiger counter out there? P.S. If you are not familiar with microSievert, bananas are radioactive (0.1 μSv). Dental X-ray is 5 μSv. Hopefully you do not eat a lot of Brazil's nuts (one bag = 10 μSv). If you stay next to Fukushima these days you will receive 0.5 μSv/h, but if you fly long distance you will receive 10-20 times that amount of radiation (less atmosphere to shield you from the nasty cosmic radiation). Be careful and don't spend a lot of time with these lenses close to your eyes. I put some thick lead linings all around (sarcophagus style) inside the case in which I keep these lenses....
Another excellent Video Mark. Sadly I have neither lens, having not found a single one so far near me. But one day. Do you have the Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8? I have both the M42 and the SMC K-mount versions and they are another lens that is a bit special.
@@MarkHoltze Try and get the F1.8 version over the F2. Why? the F2 was cheaper and just crippled the aperture so I believe. The F1.8 is the better option. You can get all three versions - Auto, Super and SMC. My M42 is super and my K mount is SMC. To be honest I cannot see much difference with the coatings. Maybe you can. Should be a lot out there as it was the standard lens kit back in the 60's and they are not expensive at all.
A very nice comparison. However, you have to keep in mind that the 8-element has 6 aperture blades, the third and fourth versions have 8 aperture blades. The "Super Takumar" 7-element has 6 aperture blades just like the "Super Takumar" 8-element Super Takumar. Anyway they are great lenses.
Cannot remember the lens that was on My Asahi Pentax in the1960's but also cannot remember any disappointments. Recently picked up 50mm Super-multi-coated 1.4 /7 element in mint condition that I am using on a Nikon D850 have to admit that it is fast becoming My favoured go to lens, closeup/ macro and a bit of portrait. Price -quality comparison with My Nikkor lens there is none.
You make it hard for me to want to do more on my RUclips channel cause.......your videos are so good!!! Fun to see what you have kicking around. My God, the Canon XL1 was my first 'real camera'. 3CCD don't you know! Nespresso too! My sister showed me that magic! Anyway, I think a good review video would be to compare different aperture designs. To be honest, I fail to see why any lens manufacturer makes anything less than 9 blades or more. I really don't care for hexagon bokeh. I just love smooth creamy backgrounds from round apertures. I really don't like oval bokeh. Don't see the fuss over that. I almost don't even watch reviews when I see 8 blades or less. Yes, that's how ill I have become with yummy goodness like the Jupiter and Meyers that have 13 or 15 blade apertures. Anywho.......doesn't matter what I think. Just thought it would make a great review video.
DO MORE! I need to do more too, was nice banging off two this week, locked in and on a hiatus week on the show so...had to stay busy and keep sane for sure. Oval Bokeh I don't mind so much from anamorphs, I like it much better than those flares that's for sure. But like any of this stuff, it's all a matter of opinion.
Hello Mark, I have now a vintage lens ( Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar f2 58mm) and I am struggling to get the object in focus with my Sony a 6500. Can you make a video with your settings on your Sony and the process on stills and movie? Stay healthy!
Hmmm, are you having trouble with close up focus or infinity focus? Here is how I manual focus on the sony: ruclips.net/video/LNU9SvcEyxI/видео.html Focus ZOOM being the number one thing. Let me know what adapter you're using as well.
Mark Holtze Ciao Mark - Off course I know your vid :-) I would like to try pictures inspired by Saul Leiter Early Colors. I have a Sony a6500. I got an Adapter from Berlin-Optix EXAKTA-NEX. My settings are: Focus Mangnifier, Focus Magnif. Time 5sec, AF in Focus Mag Off, MF Assist On, Peaking Level Hight, Peaking Color Red. On Function (Fn) I set SteadyS. Focal Len on 58mm, Focus Mode is on MF, On Custom Bottom 1 (C1) Focus Magnifier is configured.
When I did a direct comparison, I've noticed that the 7-element is much sharper in the corners +it has less vignetting and less purple fringing. The sharpness in the center was about the same. The biggest difference is the color rendition.
I took a photo of my grid lines from my hobby matt but didn't notice the difference in sharpness at the corners wide open. It's the main reason I cut that part out of the video as it was like looking at the same image, only one with different colour balance. Definitely noticed more CA wide open on the 8 in the XL1 camera shot you can see it halo the eye piece of the camera in a more direct way than the 7. Stopping down to F/4 both lenses were pretty clean of CA.
Mark Holtze Maybe it was my copy, but my 8-element takumar was much less sharp in the corners. I made shots at different apertures through the window and there was a tree in the corner of the frame. The brunches were all blurred.
Mark Holtze I really don’t know why the 8 element version has that superior reputation. It is a good lens, but the 7-element versions are better to my opinion. Such a gorgeous mechanical piece of art! It was clearly made with love and attention. Very pleasant to use. Still regret selling it. By the way, I don’t recommend cleaning the yellow-brown tint with UV light. It does the job, but it kills some magic. The rear element turns back to magenta from brown and becomes more clear, but the bokeh looses that magic artistic plasticity. The colors become more natural, but the brownish tint turns to light yellowish. I liked the brownish tint with magical plasticity more:)
I would hesitate to make that claim indefinitely, there could be some during the transition years, but it’s safe to assume ya 8 element is generally not thoriated :)
Congrats on 20 k subs - just noticed. Not the best idea when your “rear element” is protruding (drafty😁). Prefer color rendition of 7 element. Great how you picked up on the subtle lens marking differences. How often do you really use the vintage lenses compared with contemporaries?
Thanks Paul. I think the lens markings are what really inspired this video, how to tell the difference between the 8 and 7. I've only been shooting with these old lenses for awhile now, sold off most of my EF glass and my 16-35 Sony E remains largely unused ;)
Hey not sure if you'll see this but one review that I think would be interesting is a few vintage wide angles. Wides are hard to find in vintage because they are hard to make and get right back then. But every vintage guy or gal is always looking for a wide that has that lovely vintage purity. I know I don't have one and am still struggling to decide on one. Just a thought!
Thanks for another one! By the by, have you come across any Japanese marketing for any SuperTak lenses in your searches? I'm doing a special 'project' and would love to find some older marketing in Japanese.
I haven't seen any Japanese stuff specifically, but lots of English and French marketing: Google: Takumar Adverts and keep following that rabbit hole ;).. "IMAGES" section, you'll see some cool adverts from the 60's and 70's
i have an 8 element with a serial number 330 and a 7 element that came boxed with a spotmatic ii. The 8 element has more pop, sharper & just more pleasing overall. Ive tried the latest version also which is more compact but is very soft wide open. The original 55 1.8 is also a gem lens.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Video @ 4:04 has the 'wrong description' - I knew there was a reason I was so confused with what you were saying VS. what I was watching - - - You have the 8 Element lens physically pictured on the LEFT side (ser #1394553), but you labeled it "7 ELEMENT DESIGN" - You may wish to warn folks watching this that you actually did have the "7 ELEMENT" images continuously on the LEFT; after-all, some may go out and buy a lens confirmed by misrepresented info...
At 4:05 the photo of the lens is taken with the 7 element 50mm F/1.4 and the photo on the right is taken with the 8 element 50mm F/1.4. I'm not labelling the lens physically on screen in that shot, I"m labelling the lens TAKING the photo. This is how I proceed through the entire video. The info is accurate, it just depends on how you're interpreting it. Just to be clear, I'm labelling the LENS that SHOT the IMAGE, NOT the LENS that's ON SCREEN. :) For consistency the images in the side by side comparisons are always 7 element on the left and 8 element on the right.
@@MarkHoltze - Oh okay, but that's a bit confusing using the lenses as the 'subject' (you're staring at an 8 Element lens but reading a 7). Maybe begin/state with your text graphics : "Shot with 7 ELEMENT" - "Shot with 8 ELEMENT"✌
I disagree. It’s how I’ve always done it and out of all the videos you’re the first to be confused. The color shift would be the re-enforcing factor. That said your feelings are totally valid and I’m just confirming my intention. :) have a nice weekend mate.
Hello again! Thanks to you I've got 6 Takumar lenses now! 😂 I'm considering pulling the trigger on a near mint "8 elements" here in the UK... Any advice re: rear element causing damage to mirrors on Canon dslr cameras? (1Dx Mk3 / 6D Mk2 / 80D) Cheers! 👍🏻
hmmm, I'm not sure 100% IF this will hit the rear of a DSLR, i don't have one to test unfortunately. Visually eyeballing it, with the M42 to EF adapter it doesn't look like there should be any conflict. Proceed with caution in practice however!
Excited to see you got the S1H! I'm trying to build a set of Takumars. I have a set of pre-AI Nikons. I know the radiation isn't an issue but I'm immunocompromised and just don't want the added stress. Humor me lol. I'll be getting the 8 element 50mm and found a version of the 105mm that is fine. Are there versions of the 20mm and 35mm that don't have thorium? Cheers!
The difficulty is telling the Super Tak 7 and 8 element lenses apart. The Super-Multi-Coated variants (and very late Super-Tak) can be told apart by the aperture signalling arm on the rear of the lens, which the 8-element never had. I don't use my Super Tak with colour film because I know I'll never get the tint out. On the other hand, at least one of the presets on my Pentax K-5 corrects for it well enough and minimizes the work I might have to do in post.
I can manually correct the colour balance when I shift the white balance by eye, it's very easy to do to the raw files though. Film ya, be a bit trickier.
Still waiting for your Tak 50mm vs Planar 50mm video. I recently got 8 element as shown in your video purely for collection as well. Currently sitting in a sandwich bag inside of my camera bag. Another good comparison is Tak 85mm 6 element vs Planar 85mm. I recently got the Planar. Since then, my Tak 85mm have been nicely cleaned and packed in a Sandwich bag. :D
Keep it nice and safe! Looking forward to that one as well ,but need to wait until all this crap blows over or at least the nicer weather comes with some colour outside.
White balance would I would never auto white balance. Always try to get a clean white balance if you can, but honestly with raw photos it’s very easy to correct. Video is a little more tricky
I know it takes a pretty significant lens to get you to purchase one and then review one especially outside of the takumar realm, but I hope someday you find a deal on a Carl Zeiss Ultron 50 mm 1.8. I just found one for one for a steal, and I need you to make an amazing video to validate my purchase lol
Great work as ever Mark despite being homebound, and your findings match my own completely, although I must confess I hadn’t twigged the lower number of aperture blades and therefore stopped-down spectral highlights difference, though comparing show merit in both and I’d shoot quite happily with either. And of course with a lens like this one is often tempted to shoot wide open anyway :) I guess that means that the newer, and less expensive version is quite a steal, although the bargain end of the Takumar range for my money is the 55mm f2, which I’ve also compared the the f1.8 version and it really is ‘cheap as chips’ for anyone looking for a great way in to the joys of these classic lenses. The other interesting point of note for me has been the recent Voigtlander lenses which seem to have 99% of the Takumar’s DNA with the benefit of modern communication between a body and the lens. But really the charm of these older lenses can’t be ignored. Incidentally I recently did a ‘shootout’ of 11 different Takumars against a bunch of modern glass equivalents and I’d be happy to send through some snaps if you were curious.
@@henrysteadman963did you ever compare fast taks m42 vs fd’s? I want to understand main differences between these two brands. Esp 35/2, 50 1.2 from FD vs 50 1.4 tak, 85’s.
@@glebmazur9892 Hey Gleb, they do have a different quality in my experience in both the usability and feel of the lenses themselves and also in the results. In my own experience, Taks remind me of some of the modern Sigma glass, the bokeh has an 'energy' I really admire though is a bit 'busy' for some, and they feel like they are hewn from a single pice of metal. The FD's I have tried have been sharper at similar apertures and feel a little less impressionistic in their drawing character... more clinical maybe but still characterful. The one thing one has to bear oin mind on these options is that age and unknown histories leads to vast specimen differences and it's hard to know if one has got a 'good un' unless you buy 3 or 4, test and sell the rest :) The one thing I will say about Taks is that wide open, using them with bright lights and reflections is a bit of a horror show with all sorts of flared edges on highlights, but with gentler light they're wonderful. The FDs I'd like more of to play with but so far very impressed.
Hi great vid. Using it with an adaptor on a digital camera wont show you much difference . I use this lens on my Pentax Spotmatic F . When used in a film camera the sharpness at F2 to Ff8 is more evident. I know the fashion now is to shoot wide open all the time for the shallow dept of field and the digital sensors can handle that . When using the 8 element at say 5.6 the extra elements really help sharpen the image which would be a concern say if you had to enlarge a 35mm negatives . Photographers had different film stocks most topped out at 800 iso for years until 3200 iso film stock appeared so the F1.4 could be used to let more light in but had its downsides. The lens was the key when shooting film . I use vintage lenses on my Fuji gear I love them . I guess what I’m saying is now everyone wants super fast lenses to shoot wide open . Back then it was looking for sharp lenses for film stocks shooting wide open had its problems a lot of work was shot at f4 or f3.5 . Great content.
I had the X-T30 for a little while over the summer and I LOVED it with vintage lenses. The XT3 is an outstanding camera so I think that camera with ANY Takumar will be great!
I've got a good question: regarding the outer-most lens element closes to the lettering "super- takumar, are they interchangeable between the 8 element and the 7 element? I need to replace the outer lens and was curious if I could swap between the two. Might be a dumb question, but I have no clue the answer, and or if it would effect the image quality, being they might not be the same outer glass... anyone? Would the only difference be the yellowing of the radio active 7 element?
Mate I wish I could answer this, but I'm a goon when it comes to the modification process of these optics. SOMEONE must KNOW something. I'm hoping you can find your answer and apologize for not being that guy.
Depends I guess, for me, 35, 50, 85, 135 plus a 50 macro covers the range if on a full frame. I use these mostly for video as well so really depends on what you intend to shoot and what you like to shoot.
@@MarkHoltze how do you compare fd’s vs tak’s? What brand works better for you and why? What are the main differences between these two? Im interested in fast 35/50/85 ones.
Ok so mine has 6 aperture blades and only A and M on the stop down lever but my infrared mark is to the left of the 4 and the rear element doesn't protrude at infinity. Weird. Oh and I've also got the yellow thorium coating.
Could be an early version 7. The thorium yellowing is the true indicator as none of the 8 elements had thorium or so I've learned. But who knows really, getting the straight up facts on these lenses is a bit challenging. You find one source, and you can't reconcile it with another. Ultimately it's just about enjoying the lens I think :) at least for me.
You ain’t seen nothing till you try the f4 50mm macro! The sharpest lens of them all. I have both and love them equally. Are you sure you are done with takumars?
I just got the 7 element version. Need to clean it a bit first before I can use. Plan on shooting a micro-wedding with it in the spring. Interested to see what it's like on my APS-C camera with a speedbooster too as I think it could make for a great low-light lens.
You should step up in terms of "sensor" size;) Try 105 mm 2.4 on Pentax 6x7 (f/1.15 equivalent on full frame). Medium format is where Pentax really shined...
I didn’t see any per say, I think the biggest impact is controlled CA with the additional element. Reduced diffraction, which the thoriated glass does much cheaper but with the added con of small radiation.
@@MarkHoltze Thanks Mark. I have a quite heavily yellowed 7 elements one, and I love it 😅. I can easily correct the temperature of the image if I want to, or alternatively shoot b&w or just keep the yellow touch, which in many cases works fine and gives a nice vintage touch to my images. A lovely lens. Keep the great work rolling, your videos are fantastic, and so is your approach.
Hey Mark, I'm about to go downstairs and take my new SMC Tak 1.4 50 out of the box. Just got a 135 and love it-looks like you've gained another member for the cult. But at this point I already, I think, have two different variations of the mount and you read all these stories of people having problems figuring out which adapter to use. Is there a comprehensive guide to that somewhere? I'm not sure I've sorted it all out yet in my own mind and what they say about adapters available online doesn't always clear it up. Thoughts? Case in point-with the one Gobe adapter I have the lens won't focus much beyond about four feet on a full-frame. This is the worst Christmas ever. : ( I've heard about the difficulty of adapting other lenses to Nikon F bodies but I thought the infinity you can't focus to would be a little farther out than that. You could throw a potato chip farther than this lens focuses.
Love it. However I've always been concerned about taking 7 element on vacation because I'm worried airport security may pick up on the radioactivity lol
The 7 element SMC version will meter wide open on the old 35mm Spotmatic F bodies. The 8 element Super-tak has to be stopped down. Is there any difference when adapting these to digital?
The 7 in my case I had to adjust the exposure by 1/3 of a stop to let more light in. The thorium decay (yellowing) is impacting the amount of light coming in. Need to experiment a bit more with film.
@@MarkHoltze you do know you can easily get rid if the discoloration, right? My 50mm just arrived and a couple of days in the Californian sun has almost cleared it up completely.
So I looked up "Super Takkumar 50mm f1.4" on eBay and am finding some that say M42 screw mount that are relatively cheap (under $100) and all the 8 element lenses are $150-300. Are these different types of lenses? If so, are 8 element lenses considerably better or is it mainly collector's value? Is it worth investing a little bit more in an 8-element lens or should I go for the cheaper M42 screw mount option? Is this cheaper model that just says M42 screw mount and doesn't mention element the 7-element version or are there other Super Takkumars with those same specs?
Mainly collector, also not radioactive which is a big deal for some. The 7 element (cheaper) is also a fantastic lens, just depends on your comfort levels.
@@MarkHoltze I ended up going with the 8 element! Yeah, the radioactivity is certainly an issue for me. I'm not a fan at all of the brown tint and although I can fix it in post, I figure it's easier to just get one where the lens doesn't tint!
@@anmolhegde5692 Smart choice mate, it will appreciate more over time as well as it's reputation and use of these lenses becomes more wide spread in line with mirrorless hybrid cameras. It's earned it's reputation as the PLANAR killer in my mind :)
I think about buying 7 element version for my fuji and about radiation a little bit too...but i love images from it) Thanks for your vids, thay are so inpspiring)))
I can't pick which one I like more, the 7 element is better "value", but the 8 being the collector piece bumps it up in an unfair way that doesn't really resonate in the photo's. What do you guys think? Full RAW files linked in the description, check them out for a closer look at the images.
Mark Holtze
My infra red focus mark is on the left but it’s written A and M so now I’m confused whether it’s 8 elements or 7 😩
I've always heard the 7 element tak is sharper, specially the SMC one, but I gotta say that in this test, the 8 element looks a tiny bit sharper. However, I do feel the CA is worst with the older version too, so....I'd call it a tie
@@shinzychan5117 I think it's just a 7 element one. However, a "hybrid" version does exist, is has the infra red focus mark to the right, the A and M marks are there too, but the rear element doesn't protrude as it does in the 8 element version.
OH and I like the 7 element more. creamier background, less aberration and slightly more fine detail. At least to my eyes.
I had once the 7 el SMC version, but was disappointed. Between f1,4 and f2,8 the sharpness was unacceptable for my taste. Even at f5,6-8, was outperformed by my Sup. Tak 35mm f3,5. Probably was a defective one.
I remember watching this during the "dark times" and really enjoying it. Nice to come back to it in better days, decided to treat myself to a 7 element version! I clearly didn't listen to your no more takumars mantra at the end ha.
😆 ya you can’t really go wrong with any of the Tak 50’s…auto to SMC ;) enjoy the lens mate!
I’ve got the 7, picked it up for $45 USD on EBay + $5 shipping. Absolutely fantastic on my Fuji XE2. So compact, so easy to shoot. My go-to lens for kid photos and daily walkabouts. You first made a video about them a while back, which inspired me to get it. Thanks!
That 50 I think was one of my first lens reviews ehehe. I remember at the time thinking how am I going to top Jamaica for a lens review?
There were 4 variants of these lenses. There were two "Super Takumar" versions, early with 8 elements, later with 7 elements, both labeled as "Super Takumar". The older, 8-element version was non-radioactive, while all the later versions used thoriated (radioactive) glass. The lens on the left here is the third version, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, released after the 7-element "Super Takumar". The Super-Multi-Coated Takumar was then replaced by SMC Takumar. Aside from the first 8-element version, they were all radioactive.
Michael M. They seemed to have kept the radiated design through to the Pentax K lenses. They turn a different color than yellow though, so it’s tricky to spot color shift with multi-coating.
VeloRydr, all SMC Tak’s have a blue green coating.
Art Tafil yes, and the thoriated rear element will show a different type of discoloration because of the difference in multi-coating. My point, is that all the 50mm 1.4 lenses remained radiated through to the SMC Pentax-K design.
@@JP1050x but were the early 8 super taks 1.4 radioactive with thorium or not?.
@@dzava 8 element version was not known to be thoriated, so it should not be prone to color change, unlike all other Takumar 50/1.4 lenses.
2:02 that mean that the 8 elem. lens has less red deviation (and presumably, less total (red, blue, green) spherical aberration at 1,4) This translate in a slightly smoother bokeh , like in 4:44 (overcorrected sph. aberration generates a more nervous, sometimes "double lined" bokeh)
And as the 8 elem. is a kind of mix between double gauss and sonnar (heavy curved back cemented triplet, and sph. aberration typically undercorrected) , that softer bokeh makes sense
Loved seeing “parsec” on the b-roll but undecided in which I prefer but at a push the 8 element would be my choice.
The cleaner natural image I think is what sold me on it. The 7 you have to bump the exposure by 1/3 of a stop because the yellowing impacts the light transmission too. 7 is still fantastic value and you can reverse the yellowing with UV light exposure.
The 8 though, 1960's and it's the "planar killer" so that would be my ultimate choice.
Loved this episode! Your interior test / comparison shots are super creative so this was just as good as any other video if not better in some ways due to the controlled environment throughout!
Thanks mate, was running around with the Re-Housed Helios 44-2 for those shots. Such a graet lens.
Man I can’t get enough of this channel!!
Glad you're enjoying it mate! Nice to share a space with those who love this stuff as well!
Fantastic comparison video! I just bought an EBay 7 element and can't wait to use it. I will however keep my eye open for the 8 element versions at the markets.
You made a cinematic lens review without the use of 120 or 60p, I love those out of focus foreground shots you do! I would love a video on that! Well done!
120 makes me sleepy ;) good for some things, but not my style generally.
The comparison that I've been wainting for a long time!
Just had to move it to 3:00pm :( hope you can still make it!)
@@MarkHoltze I've waited some years for this, waiting a few more hours is not a problem. Thanks in advance for this video!
Mark, I freaking love your content. I recently bought a Helios 44-2 and am in LOVE. All because of your videos. I have been eyeing the Super Takumar for awhile now. After watching this video for the 3rd time, I think I'm ready to commit. Keep kicking butt!
Lol! It won’t disappoint! I’m apologize to your wallet! ✊
@@MarkHoltze it already resents you my friend 😭
Lol mine too
Radioactive lenses are so cool, I really like the yellow tint of their front glass, dangerously charming. ☠️
The yellow one in this photo is actually the “clean” lens. When you look inside the one on the left you can see the yellow tint, how it reflects a more burgundy hue than the one on the left. The super multi coating is my guess.
Yifan Tang the thoriated elements are only found in the rear group. The front element is coated with a really cool reflective yellow tint! The yellow coating is easy to scratch though... don’t ask me how I know :(.
Like a beautiful woman with AIDS.
@@barrycohen311 21 micro-sieverts per hour on the one I tested. Carried in a pocket for a day trip would be a couple x-rays worth of gamma. That's why I prefer the 8 element.
Actually, I remembered wrong. It was 3.6 uS from the front and 15 micro-sieverts from the back. For me it's easily worth the extra for the 8 element non-rad lens.
I have the 7-element Super Tak, and I love it! Incredible lens for the price and history! Great video as always Mark!
Thanks mate! Ya the 7 is sitll one of the best value lenses out there. Such a nice feeling and looking lens. I had heard so much about the 8 element I figured after so long i should just get one when an opportunity presented itself. Hope you're keeping safe during these times mate.
Nice video. At 4:46 ... the projector image side by side...it seems the 8 element pushes a bit more blur. I'd clean up a radioactive lens personally. After all, I am paying for that f/1.4 aperture. Why lose a stop.
There's a sweet spot not talked about enough. It's the SMC Takumar 50mm 1.4 with 8 blades. Mine arrived today, and typically, you're home, the light is fading, you're aiming it wide open at ISO 200 hopefully on an X-H1 with IBIS, checking out wide open sharpness along with living room bokeh. Maybe you got lucky and found the right combo. I had placed my watch on my knee to see if I could focus on it. It turned out to be my foreground bokeh while I focused on a yellow can in the background.Big beautiful soft balls floating in the foreground instead of the background. It only took me moments to realize the lens was sharper wide open than my Rollei Planar C.Z. 50mm 1.8 . (also on a converter to Fuji.) What kills me, is the lens looks brand new inside and out. Mint. $120 bucks. And it has that Multi Coating....I may need to buy a Pentax body....but first, it's dark, so I think I'll go stand in traffic! And by the way, my 8 element says Auto (in white,and Man.(In red)and the little red mark IS to the left of the 4. And it has the soft (rubber) focusing wheel. So, THIS lens needs to be talked about. By the way, I think YOU have it at 3:22. Your lens number, 63963655, is about a million higher than mine. I think I counted 8 blades in it.
I've had the 7 element lens for about 40+ years, and relatively recently decided to fix the colour degradation. Exposure to UV light does it, if you use sunlight you need to keep the lens cool - it will also take several weeks.
I've only got the 7 element so I've no basis for comparison. Was fun to see yours.
Your lens videos are butter smooth Mark. You did well being confined to the house.
You did it once again, terrific video! I recently bought the 8 element version so cheap that I still can't believe it, now I want the 7 element SMC because...well, I have issues lol. The thing that strikes me the most is that everyone says the 8 element is not radioactive, however if you look at it, the glass definitely has a yellow tint to it. I'm barely starting my Takumar journey, I've always been a Nikkor guy, but I gotta say, this is addictive. Take care Mark!
Thanks mate, ya I saw some mention that the older 8 elements will yellow a bit, but was mentioned that it wasn't due to thorium...again it's tough to get a verifiable source on this and annotating sources is also super tricky...it's always a guy who's heard it who read it who knows a guy who knows lol.
One of the best video you made, i love when you make informative video
I try to make all my videos informative...either by telling directly or by showing to help educate your understanding.
Thanks for the support mate
@@MarkHoltze BTW i find that the S1 is the perfect fit for the takumar. 👍👍👍👍
Got the 8 elements, have not tested soo much yet but I will soon. Love your videos, great work man!
Thanks Thomas! I want to get more use out of this lens as well, recently got it and definitely need to use it a bunch more.
Beautiful content as always. ❤️ It's awesome watching how your self presentation evolves throughout these videos
Thanks Johny, it's an evolution I think. I learn a lot in every video and try to cut out what doesn't work and include what does.
Great Job! My favourite video you've done so far. I think a lot of people appreciate this brief overview/comparison.
I read long time ago about how to turn the thorium yellow element back to white. You have to put a mirror beneath the lens whit caps taken off and place it under the sun for a day or more, depending of how neutral you want the lens to become. Apparently sunlight clears the yellow tint. It might be UV lighth and then you could use an UV lamp, but I'm not sure though...
THIS is the way!
as a word of caution, doing this under a hot sun might cause the oil on the aperture blades to ooze out onto your glass, good luck getting that off if it happens.
I literally bought the lens on the right in excellent shape for $60usd with an ef adapter yesterday and then i see this video when i wake up the next day haha. can't wait to see this!
That's AMAAAAZING! You got a great deal on that mate!
been looking to get one, and this video (BTW... awesome job!) helps a lot to chose. leaning heavy now to 7 elements as I like the character more. Thank you
Thank you Mark for being a driving force and inspiration to my photography. I recently acquired the 8element f1.4, absolute dream.
Ooh yess I almost forgot, I acquired a Konica 40mm f1.8 an unusually charming pancake.
Fantastic! ✊
I think I've tried all versions ! They are all awesome and the 55mm f1.8 is a sleeper.
After getting the Contax 50mm f1.4 I sold all the Pentax lenses. Same excellent build quality and feel, but more contrast and sharpness.
Ya the Contax lenses also have some magic pixie dust too. Been building up my set, Takumar's will always be my first love, but it's the consistent colour that has me using my Contax for my professional video work.
I've heard so many people say the 55.1.8 is great, i don't doubt it. That 55mm focal length is magic in of itself.
Would you recommend the Carl Zeiss Contax Planar 50mm 1.7 for Yashica over the Super Takumar 50mm 1.4?
Thank you very much. I enjoy your vintage lens videos. Recently I bought a Zenit Helios 44 58mm for 40 €. Such a beautiful lens. On my 5D Mark 2 it works very good beside the 50 mm Pentacon 1.8. I can enjoy photography a it is when all is manual.
Happy to hear that Julian, do you ever have issues with old lenses and your DSLR?
@@MarkHoltze Thank you, Mark. Yes, with the Pentacon. If I focus to infinity the rear lens reaches too much in the camera so the mirror can't swing up. I move the focus ring just a little bit in the opposite direction and it fits again :)
Hey Mark my second watch of this videos as I also decided to purchase the 8 elements. May I respectfully suggest watching Simon’s Utak video on the matter? He makes a masterful demonstration of the dreamy look that is unique to the 8 elements and that has generated such a following
I'll have a look when I can. I think at the time of producing this video i had only had it a little while and was more interested in comparing shots. I actually hate doing that because it makes what is a creative venture very technical and in the end I really don't care...do I like it or not. For me the limited edition run of it is really the power behind it, the "cult status" makes it more intriguing. Remove radioactivity and that only makes it more appealing I think. I do love hearing people articulate what they love about a lens, I'm not the best at that, my forte is in video/film production where the shots are built as sequences and other elements like blocking etc are more to think about than the optical details of the lens.
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@MarkHoltze - Analog Insights did a nice homage to the 8-Element tak too.
last year lucky i found one 8 Element in good condition but the aputure ring lost control, but i was able to open it up found the small fault and fixed it up, very happy now.
Successful surgery! Nicely done!
"No more Takumars." Bwaa-haa-haa! They're addictive, man! Especially when you also have a Spotmatic and like to shoot film as well.
Truth!!!
Hahaa, "No more Takumars.... [for now]"
FOR NOW! lol...very important ;)
Do you have SMC Takumar 15mm F/3.5 aspherical? Same as this 8 element 50 - money lost on each copy, limited production run, can distinguish from standard, 'spherical' version by markings on distance scale... another piece of Asahi Optical history.
@@MarkHoltze Last Takumar? I own the 28mm f3.5 M42, the 28mm f3.5 K-mount (better!), the 50mm f1.4, the 85mm f1.8 (my favorite!) and the 135mm f2.5 (excellent!). That 135mm f2.5 I'd strongly recommend you to trade your f3.5 for; maybe THAT could be your last Takumar then ( for a while) 😀. Too bad you brought this video just ahead of me looking for the 8-elements 50mm, now prices will go up even more 😉
My wife said that to me. Now I have 15 of them. If you do not have a Tele-Takumar 200mm preset ... that should be your next one. Incredible bokeh and super sharp.
Second time watching. It’s crazy how I love how you incorporate visuals, music and your commentary together. Watching your videos like it’s my online class. Hope you don’t mind☺️
Not at all, going to do a video on that process I think shortly I think!
Mark Holtze great
This quarantine got me so messed up I missed your video! Dude these lenses are awesome! Definitely a great combo with your S1H.
ALl good man, hopefully you're doing well mate. You back in Michigan for the time being?
@@MarkHoltze Thanks! Hope you are doing well too! I actually am. Came back to be with my family a few weeks ago before things got really bad. Not sure if you saw my latest video but I am going to be posting some more videos very soon! Im trying to turn lemons into lemonade.
Love it!!! Great review!!! Always like your tone!
For you, it is so hard to pick one to like more.
For me, I would say the 7 element is a better choice since I only have the 7!
Stay healthy everyone!
The 7 is the smartest choice for sure.
I've recently read a lot about the legendary skateboard and music photographer Glen Friedman, who was a true passionate Pentax user: that's probably one of the reasons I like his style so much
Glen is a legend, Pentax...while not as hip as Canon and Sony today, still produce some fantastic gear....they're just so off the radar it's kind of weird.
@@MarkHoltze true, nowadays not too many people are using Pentax cameras and lenses. It's not easy to understand why: maybe marketing, maybe Ricoh acquisition or maybe product design (think about how could be good a camera whose design reminds to a Spotmatic or a K1000)
Mine is the 7 one. I know that. I have to use it more often. I just don't find the time to shoot with it at motorsport events as for grid walks its "too slow" (i am focusing) and later on never did tried. But have to find a way to use it.
You'd be surprised how good you can get shooting from the hip with it after some practice. Muscle memory helps a lot, obviously 1.4 is tough, but at 2.8 I can almost eye ball shots based on that depth of field scales for stuff that's relatively close to me.
Try it with some night time/ low light stuff, might be fun!
Thank you for your reviews. Glad I found your channel.
Thanks for being here Richard :)
Mark, you should really try the radioactive Canon FD 35mm f2 concave version Thorium lens. It has character and not to mention that its extremely sharp!
You had me at concave version lol! Will keep an eye out!
Interesting. I think I prefer the 7 element version. Much warmer colours for the reasons you mentioned. I guess this shows that sometimes internet hype isn’t always warranted
I get it if you feel uncomfortable with (harmless) radiation levels on the 7, or just want the actual "planar killer"...but optically.........not much of a difference to warrant the price difference. Reputation and scarcity goes a long way in the collectors field though.
Only issue i don't love is the lack of light that comes through the thoriated glass that's aged. It was about 1/3 of a stop difference with same shooting settings, I always had to bump up the shutter a bit to compensated with same lighting levels.
Mark Holtze yeah man, I have a helio’s 44-2 which apparently it radioactive, but in such small amounts it’s fine.
I hadn’t realised that the thoriated aging had affected it that much. 1/3 of a stop is quite a bit
I like these so much, I have both! They're both pretty much unbeatable, even by modern standards imo. I'm always floored by how nice the negatives look when I use these with film. Yeah, the radioactive one definitely has a more yellow tint. Actually very useful with films that have a cooler white balance, like Ektachrome. Almost a built in warming filter.
I blame your videos for my Pentax M42 mount addiction! :-)
Only need the 85mm now, and I'm done.. ish.
Built in warming filter exactly lol. The 85 is golden mate, you'll love it. It's THE PERFECT size and balance, it's just fantastic.
@@MarkHoltze Yeah, I really want that 85mm... Off to ebay!😄
Another banger!!!!!!! Thank you for the awesome comparison!!!!! Have a great weekend!!!!
Thanks Kyle! You too mate!
Hi Mark, any plans to review the Zeiss Jena Biotar 75mm/ f1.5?
If I can get one definitely.
Brilliant vid, I love your style so natural and knowledgeable.
Thanks mate! Appreciate you hanging out!
Found the eight element 50mm f1.4 SUPER TAKUMAR in a second hand shed, ( attached to the ASAHI- PENTAX SPOTMATIC) four month ago. I am getting good colours and fine BOUKET .
You prob got it for a good price too didnt you? :)
I love my 7 element Tak.
No more Takumar's! - (for now)😂. Wait till you wake up at night, wet and shaking, let me tell you, its NO FUN😂😂. That's why I had to get the (Missing Link) Asahi Eltro Zeiss Takumar 500mm f4.5. The best and biggest fix I will ever have🤪
Looking forward for the comparison 👍
Stay safe.
The ADDICTION IS REAL!!!!!! lol Would love a 500mm, completely different photo game at that focal length.
Nice video, Mark! 🙂🙏🏻 What would it be a fair price for each lenses nowadays? 😁
I'm using the Pentax-A 50mm SMC f1.4 and I always thought it to be the second generation Takumar. Apparently it isn't so. Is the Takumar optically better in your opinion? I have used the Pentax quite a bit on my Fuji where it produces results that I can't reproduce with my far more expensive Fuji lenses. The pictures this little gem makes are less sharp but the bokeh is far more pronounced (it's prone to flares though) and it gives more of a dreamy/out of this world look.
nice one mate, just got my takumar 300mm this week and have started testing.
300mm? The long telephoto's are something I need to get into.
Mark Holtze it’s a big lens on the m50 😂
Very nicely done video. I just purchased the 8-elements version. I snagged it at a good price. Condition is great! Now I need a Pentax body. I'm looking for a film body of the same production year (plus/minus a few years). I spent several hours today searching the web for information as to the production year of my 8-element lens so that I can date the lens and then find the corresponding camera body. No such luck. If you know if a good Takumar S/No. data base, please let me know. Then some blogs are saying not to use a Pentax body if the "R" on the rewind knob is painted green. Only rewind knobs that have the "R" painted in orange will be compatible. This is due to the protrusion of the rear element of the lens. If not compatible, then the rear element can be damaged - I suppose by the mirror flipping up and down. But every Spotmatic that I saw on eBay has the green "R". I'm thinking that I have the wrong information, so appreciating if you could help me out here. Thanks! Steve
I have both these lenses and they’re both lovely bits of glass but despite all of their similarities there certainly are differences between, really looking forwards to watching this to see if your copies echo the results of mine, excellent!!!
Found it like splitting hairs really, one major difference in images is immediately apparent though ;)
@@MarkHoltze Colour? One of mine has a lot of yellow'ing unless I leave it out in the sunshine, however, I rather the like the warmth it brings :)
I know, I know... I will just have to wait and see at 3pm! :)
hi Mark. I have a nerdy question for you...
witch adapter are you using for the SMC?
the one I have (for Sony Alpha) doesn't allow the lens to focus past 2 meters: it too narrow.
it has no problem with the Helios, but doesn't work the SMC Takumar.
A workaround would be to use M42 to Leica M, then Leica M to Sony, but maybe you know better?
thank you for any answer you might have :)
cheers form Berlin
Roberto
Fotodiox M42 to NEX my go to. No issues
@@MarkHoltze thanke you :)
I have the luxury of having no better 50 mm lens than my Super Takumar, 50 mm; f:1.4; seven elements. I adore it, the sharpness and IQ is superb. Handling is excellent, and it does not suffer from radio active matter.
Thumbs up for funky jazz soundtrack!
🎶 🎼 🎵
Thanks mate! Just getting into vintage lenses and this was a great video. ❤
✊
Hello Mark.
Nice video.
I was probably lucky to buy the Planar killer for 150€ in January (eBay auction).
As an off track rant, I do not know what happened during the last months, but now I can find only crazy prices on European eBay (Covid-19 infected?).
When I received my 8/7 Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4, I was surprised to notice that the front lens clearly showed some distinct yellow tint.
Measured radioactivity was practically irrelevant (about 0.10 μSv/h both near the front and the rear lens).
I wonder if your lens will show the same coloring after keeping it in the dark for some time.
For the sake of clarity, of the eight known variations of the Planar killer, mine is IIIA or IIIB (I did not open the lens to check the helicoid...) S/N 1221802.
The first two version are easily recognizable because the zero DOF marker is a red dot with a line - start of production: 1962.
The second has a red diamond but there is small R next to the red infrared line.
With the next two variations the height of the diaphragm ring increased from 5.5 to 6.5mm (which caused the red R to disappear) - c.a 1964 (my lens belongs to this period)
On the following version, the serial number was moved from before to after "Super-Takumar" - c.a 1965
The last two versions saw the introduction of tecnopolymers in the barrel construction (helicoid rotation stop) and the printing of the distance index on an aluminium plate, glued to the focusing ring.
I read somewhere that thorium coating was applied only to product numbers 37800-37801-37802 (the last three variations of Super-Takumars that were produced), so, according to this source, 37902 (Super-Multi-Coated) and 37908 (the SMC one with the rubberized aperture rings and six rows of squares focusing rings) should not be radioactive...
To tell you the truth, my Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1.4 marked 37902 is extremely radioactive: about 0.6 μSv/h measured near the front and about 2.2 μSv/h (!!!) measured near rear lens -much more radioactive than the Super-Multi-Coated Takumar
35mm f/2 (1.4 μSv/h near the rear lens) or the Super-Takumars 55mm f/1.8 (0.55 μSv/h near the rear lens).
It would be interesting to know if the last version of this lens (eg. the one appearing in the Armando Ferreira video here ruclips.net/video/SgwdiHLYTdY/видео.html) is radioactive or not.
Anybody with a Geiger counter out there?
P.S. If you are not familiar with microSievert, bananas are radioactive (0.1 μSv). Dental X-ray is 5 μSv. Hopefully you do not eat a lot of Brazil's nuts (one bag = 10 μSv). If you stay next to Fukushima these days you will receive 0.5 μSv/h, but if you fly long distance you will receive 10-20 times that amount of radiation (less atmosphere to shield you from the nasty cosmic radiation). Be careful and don't spend a lot of time with these lenses close to your eyes. I put some thick lead linings all around (sarcophagus style) inside the case in which I keep these lenses....
Another excellent Video Mark. Sadly I have neither lens, having not found a single one so far near me. But one day. Do you have the Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8? I have both the M42 and the SMC K-mount versions and they are another lens that is a bit special.
The HOTTEST Takumar I think that 55 M42 mount is ;) I'll keep my eye out for one mate! Thanks Iain!
@@MarkHoltze Try and get the F1.8 version over the F2. Why? the F2 was cheaper and just crippled the aperture so I believe. The F1.8 is the better option. You can get all three versions - Auto, Super and SMC. My M42 is super and my K mount is SMC. To be honest I cannot see much difference with the coatings. Maybe you can. Should be a lot out there as it was the standard lens kit back in the 60's and they are not expensive at all.
@@MarkHoltze Just posted on FB group for you.
A very nice comparison. However, you have to keep in mind that the 8-element has 6 aperture blades, the third and fourth versions have 8 aperture blades. The "Super Takumar" 7-element has 6 aperture blades just like the "Super Takumar" 8-element Super Takumar. Anyway they are great lenses.
Good point! I should have made clear I'm comparing the version I have vs ones that exist. Good to know though mate, thanks for that additional info!
Cannot remember the lens that was on My Asahi Pentax in the1960's but also cannot remember any disappointments. Recently picked up 50mm Super-multi-coated 1.4 /7 element in mint condition that I am using on a Nikon D850 have to admit that it is fast becoming My favoured go to lens, closeup/ macro and a bit of portrait. Price -quality comparison with My Nikkor lens there is none.
You make it hard for me to want to do more on my RUclips channel cause.......your videos are so good!!! Fun to see what you have kicking around. My God, the Canon XL1 was my first 'real camera'. 3CCD don't you know! Nespresso too! My sister showed me that magic! Anyway, I think a good review video would be to compare different aperture designs. To be honest, I fail to see why any lens manufacturer makes anything less than 9 blades or more. I really don't care for hexagon bokeh. I just love smooth creamy backgrounds from round apertures. I really don't like oval bokeh. Don't see the fuss over that. I almost don't even watch reviews when I see 8 blades or less. Yes, that's how ill I have become with yummy goodness like the Jupiter and Meyers that have 13 or 15 blade apertures. Anywho.......doesn't matter what I think. Just thought it would make a great review video.
DO MORE! I need to do more too, was nice banging off two this week, locked in and on a hiatus week on the show so...had to stay busy and keep sane for sure.
Oval Bokeh I don't mind so much from anamorphs, I like it much better than those flares that's for sure. But like any of this stuff, it's all a matter of opinion.
Another good one! Thanks Mark!
Thanks James!
The 7 elements that you have is the SMC version so it will have 8 blades, the “super” version will have 6 blades like the 8 elements
Hello Mark, I have now a vintage lens ( Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar f2 58mm) and I am struggling to get the object in focus with my Sony a 6500. Can you make a video with your settings on your Sony and the process on stills and movie? Stay healthy!
Hmmm, are you having trouble with close up focus or infinity focus?
Here is how I manual focus on the sony: ruclips.net/video/LNU9SvcEyxI/видео.html
Focus ZOOM being the number one thing. Let me know what adapter you're using as well.
Mark Holtze Ciao Mark - Off course I know your vid :-) I would like to try pictures inspired by Saul Leiter Early Colors. I have a Sony a6500. I got an Adapter from Berlin-Optix EXAKTA-NEX. My settings are: Focus Mangnifier, Focus Magnif. Time 5sec, AF in Focus Mag Off, MF Assist On, Peaking Level Hight, Peaking Color Red. On Function (Fn) I set SteadyS. Focal Len on 58mm, Focus Mode is on MF, On Custom Bottom 1 (C1) Focus Magnifier is configured.
When I did a direct comparison, I've noticed that the 7-element is much sharper in the corners +it has less vignetting and less purple fringing. The sharpness in the center was about the same. The biggest difference is the color rendition.
I took a photo of my grid lines from my hobby matt but didn't notice the difference in sharpness at the corners wide open. It's the main reason I cut that part out of the video as it was like looking at the same image, only one with different colour balance.
Definitely noticed more CA wide open on the 8 in the XL1 camera shot you can see it halo the eye piece of the camera in a more direct way than the 7. Stopping down to F/4 both lenses were pretty clean of CA.
Mark Holtze Maybe it was my copy, but my 8-element takumar was much less sharp in the corners. I made shots at different apertures through the window and there was a tree in the corner of the frame. The brunches were all blurred.
Mark Holtze I really don’t know why the 8 element version has that superior reputation. It is a good lens, but the 7-element versions are better to my opinion. Such a gorgeous mechanical piece of art! It was clearly made with love and attention. Very pleasant to use. Still regret selling it. By the way, I don’t recommend cleaning the yellow-brown tint with UV light. It does the job, but it kills some magic. The rear element turns back to magenta from brown and becomes more clear, but the bokeh looses that magic artistic plasticity. The colors become more natural, but the brownish tint turns to light yellowish. I liked the brownish tint with magical plasticity more:)
So the 8 element is not radioactive for all serial numbers? I love your record player btw what model is it?
I would hesitate to make that claim indefinitely, there could be some during the transition years, but it’s safe to assume ya 8 element is generally not thoriated :)
Congrats on 20 k subs - just noticed. Not the best idea when your “rear element” is protruding (drafty😁). Prefer color rendition of 7 element. Great how you picked up on the subtle lens marking differences. How often do you really use the vintage lenses compared with contemporaries?
Thanks Paul. I think the lens markings are what really inspired this video, how to tell the difference between the 8 and 7. I've only been shooting with these old lenses for awhile now, sold off most of my EF glass and my 16-35 Sony E remains largely unused ;)
Hey not sure if you'll see this but one review that I think would be interesting is a few vintage wide angles. Wides are hard to find in vintage because they are hard to make and get right back then. But every vintage guy or gal is always looking for a wide that has that lovely vintage purity. I know I don't have one and am still struggling to decide on one. Just a thought!
I’ve got a 20, 24 and 29, the 17 fisheye is super wide, well, it’s a fisheye. Good idea though mate! Will pencil it in!
Mark Holtze yeah, if it fits your channel. What brands do you like for your wides?
Thanks for another one! By the by, have you come across any Japanese marketing for any SuperTak lenses in your searches? I'm doing a special 'project' and would love to find some older marketing in Japanese.
I haven't seen any Japanese stuff specifically, but lots of English and French marketing:
Google: Takumar Adverts and keep following that rabbit hole ;).. "IMAGES" section, you'll see some cool adverts from the 60's and 70's
i have an 8 element with a serial number 330 and a 7 element that came boxed with a spotmatic ii. The 8 element has more pop, sharper & just more pleasing overall. Ive tried the latest version also which is more compact but is very soft wide open. The original 55 1.8 is also a gem lens.
Ya the 55 is one of their best I think. Still affordable which makes it even better
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Video @ 4:04 has the 'wrong description' - I knew there was a reason I was so confused with what you were saying VS. what I was watching - - - You have the 8 Element lens physically pictured on the LEFT side (ser #1394553), but you labeled it "7 ELEMENT DESIGN" - You may wish to warn folks watching this that you actually did have the "7 ELEMENT" images continuously on the LEFT; after-all, some may go out and buy a lens confirmed by misrepresented info...
At 4:05 the photo of the lens is taken with the 7 element 50mm F/1.4 and the photo on the right is taken with the 8 element 50mm F/1.4. I'm not labelling the lens physically on screen in that shot, I"m labelling the lens TAKING the photo. This is how I proceed through the entire video. The info is accurate, it just depends on how you're interpreting it. Just to be clear, I'm labelling the LENS that SHOT the IMAGE, NOT the LENS that's ON SCREEN.
:) For consistency the images in the side by side comparisons are always 7 element on the left and 8 element on the right.
@@MarkHoltze - Oh okay, but that's a bit confusing using the lenses as the 'subject' (you're staring at an 8 Element lens but reading a 7).
Maybe begin/state with your text graphics : "Shot with 7 ELEMENT" - "Shot with 8 ELEMENT"✌
I disagree. It’s how I’ve always done it and out of all the videos you’re the first to be confused. The color shift would be the re-enforcing factor.
That said your feelings are totally valid and I’m just confirming my intention. :) have a nice weekend mate.
WTH this vid totally needs an iconic cool motorcycle, bicycle and guitar, and Nakamichi!!!! :)
Hello again!
Thanks to you I've got 6 Takumar lenses now! 😂
I'm considering pulling the trigger on a near mint "8 elements" here in the UK...
Any advice re: rear element causing damage to mirrors on Canon dslr cameras? (1Dx Mk3 / 6D Mk2 / 80D)
Cheers! 👍🏻
hmmm, I'm not sure 100% IF this will hit the rear of a DSLR, i don't have one to test unfortunately. Visually eyeballing it, with the M42 to EF adapter it doesn't look like there should be any conflict. Proceed with caution in practice however!
Also, to know if you have an 8 or 7 element, hold it up against a light. You can see tiny little lens flares. Count them.
That's cool! ! Thanks
Excited to see you got the S1H! I'm trying to build a set of Takumars. I have a set of pre-AI Nikons. I know the radiation isn't an issue but I'm immunocompromised and just don't want the added stress. Humor me lol. I'll be getting the 8 element 50mm and found a version of the 105mm that is fine. Are there versions of the 20mm and 35mm that don't have thorium? Cheers!
The 35 F2 does, the 3.5 doesn’t. Don’t think the 20 does either. I totally get you there though!!
@@MarkHoltze Thanks Mark. I really appreciate it!
The difficulty is telling the Super Tak 7 and 8 element lenses apart. The Super-Multi-Coated variants (and very late Super-Tak) can be told apart by the aperture signalling arm on the rear of the lens, which the 8-element never had.
I don't use my Super Tak with colour film because I know I'll never get the tint out. On the other hand, at least one of the presets on my Pentax K-5 corrects for it well enough and minimizes the work I might have to do in post.
I can manually correct the colour balance when I shift the white balance by eye, it's very easy to do to the raw files though. Film ya, be a bit trickier.
Still waiting for your Tak 50mm vs Planar 50mm video. I recently got 8 element as shown in your video purely for collection as well. Currently sitting in a sandwich bag inside of my camera bag. Another good comparison is Tak 85mm 6 element vs Planar 85mm. I recently got the Planar. Since then, my Tak 85mm have been nicely cleaned and packed in a Sandwich bag. :D
Keep it nice and safe! Looking forward to that one as well ,but need to wait until all this crap blows over or at least the nicer weather comes with some colour outside.
Wouldn't the auto white balance negate any yellowing of the image?
White balance would I would never auto white balance. Always try to get a clean white balance if you can, but honestly with raw photos it’s very easy to correct. Video is a little more tricky
I know it takes a pretty significant lens to get you to purchase one and then review one especially outside of the takumar realm, but I hope someday you find a deal on a Carl Zeiss Ultron 50 mm 1.8. I just found one for one for a steal, and I need you to make an amazing video to validate my purchase lol
Can't wait to see this!
Btw, do you have the SMC Takumar 15mm f3.5 Aspherical? It was designed by Zeiss.😉
I don't no! I've heard lots about it, widest I have is 17mm fisheye.
Great work as ever Mark despite being homebound, and your findings match my own completely, although I must confess I hadn’t twigged the lower number of aperture blades and therefore stopped-down spectral highlights difference, though comparing show merit in both and I’d shoot quite happily with either.
And of course with a lens like this one is often tempted to shoot wide open anyway :)
I guess that means that the newer, and less expensive version is quite a steal, although the bargain end of the Takumar range for my money is the 55mm f2, which I’ve also compared the the f1.8 version and it really is ‘cheap as chips’ for anyone looking for a great way in to the joys of these classic lenses.
The other interesting point of note for me has been the recent Voigtlander lenses which seem to have 99% of the Takumar’s DNA with the benefit of modern communication between a body and the lens.
But really the charm of these older lenses can’t be ignored.
Incidentally I recently did a ‘shootout’ of 11 different Takumars against a bunch of modern glass equivalents and I’d be happy to send through some snaps if you were curious.
Sorry... 'specular' - doh!
That would be rad mate! Thanks! mark_holtze@hotmail.com GO!
@@henrysteadman963did you ever compare fast taks m42 vs fd’s? I want to understand main differences between these two brands. Esp 35/2, 50 1.2 from FD vs 50 1.4 tak, 85’s.
@@glebmazur9892 Hey Gleb, they do have a different quality in my experience in both the usability and feel of the lenses themselves and also in the results. In my own experience, Taks remind me of some of the modern Sigma glass, the bokeh has an 'energy' I really admire though is a bit 'busy' for some, and they feel like they are hewn from a single pice of metal. The FD's I have tried have been sharper at similar apertures and feel a little less impressionistic in their drawing character... more clinical maybe but still characterful. The one thing one has to bear oin mind on these options is that age and unknown histories leads to vast specimen differences and it's hard to know if one has got a 'good un' unless you buy 3 or 4, test and sell the rest :) The one thing I will say about Taks is that wide open, using them with bright lights and reflections is a bit of a horror show with all sorts of flared edges on highlights, but with gentler light they're wonderful. The FDs I'd like more of to play with but so far very impressed.
@@henrysteadman963 thanks for your answer!
As far as i see you prefer FDs)
Hi great vid. Using it with an adaptor on a digital camera wont show you much difference . I use this lens on my Pentax Spotmatic F . When used in a film camera the sharpness at F2 to Ff8 is more evident. I know the fashion now is to shoot wide open all the time for the shallow dept of field and the digital sensors can handle that . When using the 8 element at say 5.6 the extra elements really help sharpen the image which would be a concern say if you had to enlarge a 35mm negatives . Photographers had different film stocks most topped out at 800 iso for years until 3200 iso film stock appeared so the F1.4 could be used to let more light in but had its downsides. The lens was the key when shooting film . I use vintage lenses on my Fuji gear I love them . I guess what I’m saying is now everyone wants super fast lenses to shoot wide open . Back then it was looking for sharp lenses for film stocks shooting wide open had its problems a lot of work was shot at f4 or f3.5 . Great content.
May I ask what m42 to Fuji adapter you use, and if you feel comfortable recommending it?
What do you think about fuji xt3 to use manual lens? I got a lot of old vintage lens and I really like shooting with takumar 85 1.8
I had the X-T30 for a little while over the summer and I LOVED it with vintage lenses. The XT3 is an outstanding camera so I think that camera with ANY Takumar will be great!
Could review the 28mm F3.5 or make a sharpness comparison between the 135mm F2.5 vs F3.5?
I can Tom, give me a bit of time and i'll get those done.
@@MarkHoltze Cool, I look forward to seeing more videos. I ordered a tiny 18mm F2.8 pentax auto 110 lens. Hope to get some good results!
I've got a good question: regarding the outer-most lens element closes to the lettering "super- takumar, are they interchangeable between the 8 element and the 7 element? I need to replace the outer lens and was curious if I could swap between the two. Might be a dumb question, but I have no clue the answer, and or if it would effect the image quality, being they might not be the same outer glass... anyone? Would the only difference be the yellowing of the radio active 7 element?
Mate I wish I could answer this, but I'm a goon when it comes to the modification process of these optics. SOMEONE must KNOW something. I'm hoping you can find your answer and apologize for not being that guy.
What would you consider to be a "full" set of takumars as you mentioned in the video? I am daily new to the vintage lens scene.
Depends I guess, for me, 35, 50, 85, 135 plus a 50 macro covers the range if on a full frame. I use these mostly for video as well so really depends on what you intend to shoot and what you like to shoot.
@@MarkHoltze how do you compare fd’s vs tak’s? What brand works better for you and why? What are the main differences between these two?
Im interested in fast 35/50/85 ones.
Ok so mine has 6 aperture blades and only A and M on the stop down lever but my infrared mark is to the left of the 4 and the rear element doesn't protrude at infinity. Weird. Oh and I've also got the yellow thorium coating.
Could be an early version 7. The thorium yellowing is the true indicator as none of the 8 elements had thorium or so I've learned. But who knows really, getting the straight up facts on these lenses is a bit challenging. You find one source, and you can't reconcile it with another.
Ultimately it's just about enjoying the lens I think :) at least for me.
You ain’t seen nothing till you try the f4 50mm macro! The sharpest lens of them all. I have both and love them equally. Are you sure you are done with takumars?
I reviewd it actually the 50 macro. I LOVE it, it takes almost all my thumbnail photo's ;). Definitely NOT sure i"m done with Takumar's.
I just got the 7 element version. Need to clean it a bit first before I can use. Plan on shooting a micro-wedding with it in the spring. Interested to see what it's like on my APS-C camera with a speedbooster too as I think it could make for a great low-light lens.
Definitely!
You should step up in terms of "sensor" size;) Try 105 mm 2.4 on Pentax 6x7 (f/1.15 equivalent on full frame). Medium format is where Pentax really shined...
Yes I've got an eye on them for sure lol. It might be the only way to really expand on the brand beyond their 35mm lenses! Thanks mate!
Nice video. No noticeable sharpness differences wide open?
I didn’t see any per say, I think the biggest impact is controlled CA with the additional element. Reduced diffraction, which the thoriated glass does much cheaper but with the added con of small radiation.
@@MarkHoltze Thanks Mark. I have a quite heavily yellowed 7 elements one, and I love it 😅. I can easily correct the temperature of the image if I want to, or alternatively shoot b&w or just keep the yellow touch, which in many cases works fine and gives a nice vintage touch to my images. A lovely lens. Keep the great work rolling, your videos are fantastic, and so is your approach.
Hey Mark, I'm about to go downstairs and take my new SMC Tak 1.4 50 out of the box. Just got a 135 and love it-looks like you've gained another member for the cult. But at this point I already, I think, have two different variations of the mount and you read all these stories of people having problems figuring out which adapter to use. Is there a comprehensive guide to that somewhere? I'm not sure I've sorted it all out yet in my own mind and what they say about adapters available online doesn't always clear it up. Thoughts?
Case in point-with the one Gobe adapter I have the lens won't focus much beyond about four feet on a full-frame. This is the worst Christmas ever. : ( I've heard about the difficulty of adapting other lenses to Nikon F bodies but I thought the infinity you can't focus to would be a little farther out than that. You could throw a potato chip farther than this lens focuses.
Love it. However I've always been concerned about taking 7 element on vacation because I'm worried airport security may pick up on the radioactivity lol
I've taken this one a few times, I reviewed it in Jamaica back in 2018 and they swabbed it no issues.
David Desjardins I’ve taken this and my radioactive Nikon AIS 85 2.0 and no big deal.
Nice video! Talk about super takumar 85 f1.9
The 1.9!!! I have the 1.8! The 1.9 is intersting....why 1.9 I wonder.
The 7 element SMC version will meter wide open on the old 35mm Spotmatic F bodies. The 8 element Super-tak has to be stopped down. Is there any difference when adapting these to digital?
The 7 in my case I had to adjust the exposure by 1/3 of a stop to let more light in. The thorium decay (yellowing) is impacting the amount of light coming in. Need to experiment a bit more with film.
@@MarkHoltze you do know you can easily get rid if the discoloration, right?
My 50mm just arrived and a couple of days in the Californian sun has almost cleared it up completely.
What is your line-up for the Tak kit or collection I just started purchasing vintage glass and have quite the Tak lineup my self
No particular order: 17mm Fisheye (Super multi-coated) 20 F4.5, 35 F2, 50 F1.4 7 and 8 element 85mm F1.8, 50mm Macro F4, 100MM Macro F4, 135 F2.5 (super multi coated and super takumar).
That's it :) .... (for now)
So I looked up "Super Takkumar 50mm f1.4" on eBay and am finding some that say M42 screw mount that are relatively cheap (under $100) and all the 8 element lenses are $150-300. Are these different types of lenses? If so, are 8 element lenses considerably better or is it mainly collector's value? Is it worth investing a little bit more in an 8-element lens or should I go for the cheaper M42 screw mount option? Is this cheaper model that just says M42 screw mount and doesn't mention element the 7-element version or are there other Super Takkumars with those same specs?
Mainly collector, also not radioactive which is a big deal for some. The 7 element (cheaper) is also a fantastic lens, just depends on your comfort levels.
@@MarkHoltze I ended up going with the 8 element! Yeah, the radioactivity is certainly an issue for me. I'm not a fan at all of the brown tint and although I can fix it in post, I figure it's easier to just get one where the lens doesn't tint!
@@anmolhegde5692 Smart choice mate, it will appreciate more over time as well as it's reputation and use of these lenses becomes more wide spread in line with mirrorless hybrid cameras. It's earned it's reputation as the PLANAR killer in my mind :)
I think about buying 7 element version for my fuji and about radiation a little bit too...but i love images from it)
Thanks for your vids, thay are so inpspiring)))
Radiation always makes people feel weird, i get it.
Vladimir Fominykh I’ve got the 7 version and it is excellent on my Fuji xe2. Fits fine on my xt2, but it is more natural on the xe2.