Well mate, divine intervention has brought me here as I have discovered this in my lounge room. Sad part is, the house is only 5 years old and the builder wants nothing to do with it. The good part is, that it's in the middle of the whole house... Easy to get to. Thanks heaps mate, I now have inspiration to give it a go! 👍
@@josephking6515 yeah mate we do but as a lot of people people already know, sometimes it easier to just fix it yourself without all the drama. They make it that hard that I don't have the energy..... Needless to say, if I ever build again, they won't be on my short list
OMG Bill I have this problem in my garage, the sagging is really bad and it’s a two door garage. I’m unable to get it fixed right now and I know that it’s going to be a replacement down the track. Thanks for the great video once again.
Great video Bill of a very common issue. We would also install a trimmer just above the cornice, which should have been installed during its construction.
Had this sag and constant loud popping throughout my 30yr old house, held by nails. Used 2000 odd Bunnings bugle head screws to sort it, in some places had 1” drop.
I got a par of those sheet lifters from Aldi 5 or 6 years ago, I tossed them out because they went all rusty, about 12 months before i noticed my ceiling starting to sag... luckily it was only small areas that i was able to pull up with screws.
Thanks mate. I have this exact issue in my garage and some spots throughout the house where the original owners(or trade people) have cut through the metal plasterboard battens to install down lights and the ceiling is sagging in spots….
My garage ceiling did the exact same thing and dropped far enough to am the roller door. Got back up using some pieces of 300 x 95 x 20 to spread the load across the plasterboard and went right across the ceiling. Happened just 8 years from new and it seems like this is a common problem so why don't they over glue that area near the wall? The plasterer was a bit light on using the glue (only found that out much later) because I watched him putting the full sheets up during the build. Now have screw holes showing where it's dropped slightly inside the house, but now for the "good" bit. In 2013 I made an insurance claim and got this fixed and unfortunately I wasn't there when the removed the plasterboard. They told me it took *three pulls* to get all the plaster sheets down from a larger than double garage. The beams were so out of level they put a metal frame in to level it then attached the plaster to the metal and did a pretty nice job too. After learning about the _three pulls_ I am now just waiting for the ceiling in the rest of the house to start raining plasterboard. *Thank You* for the video Bill. 👍
What bill is describing is a very typical issue in garage areas, usually near the roll a doors mainly due to the extremes in temperature and humidity changes from the dwelling areas and outside, the garage can get to be over 20 degrees hotter in summer than the outside area, I've been in roof spaces where the outside temperature is 'measured' at 42oC, however remember that's measured 'in the shade' so the actual temperature may be 30o Hotter. The roof space measured 56oC, which will cause the ceiling sheets to 'bow and sag', as the adhesives crystalise and become brittle, also the plaster or drywall lining sheets weaken as the moisture is expelled from them (plaster - gypsum sheets, absorb and expel moisture) and so they will 'breath' with humidity changes also creating issues. By using supplementary fastenings (Stud Adhesive) and permanent fasteners - nails or screws the ceiling can be made to return to it's original position. Leave the temporary props in place as long as you can as the sag or bow will need to be relieved to become flat again. - Great Video.
Hey Bill, just wondering if you would use the same method for old horse hair plaster ceilings? We have a very minor sag in one of the bedrooms of our 80 year old house.
Hi Taylor, you can but you need a larger footprint to increase the area of the fastener so poke over the screw a cap or paper washer (A piece of plasterers paper tape or a section from a manilla folder) about the size of a $0.20 cent piece soaked with plaster when screwed in to hold against the head of the screw and underside of the plaster, if there is anyway to access the roof space easily and is there insulation in the roof space? As horsehair plaster/fibrous plaster (plasterglass) is more brittle than plasterboard. the way to reinforce sagging fibrous ceiling plasters is to 'scrim' the back of the sheet with 'rope straps' -hemp or sisal rope material 'teased' and soaked in plaster to set and hold the sheet in place. a bit of a chore but highly successful when done properly.
Sorry, may be a stupid q, but how did you know where to screw (i.e., how did you know there were joists above where you were screwing into the ceiling)?
Good video as well as the others that I have looked at. You didn’t remove the dust between the battens and the plaster. Is there a limit on the amount of dust that the glue can tolerate? I have heaps of dust and debris as the roof was not installed with sarking. The one room that I have inspected due to cracking I discovered the sagging as well - I fear for a lot more work as cornices in other rooms have also sagged. The crawl space limits what I can access to the middle 30% of the ceiling. The plaster has replaced older lathe and plaster, I guess about 30 years ago, but is only nailed in without glued. Do you have any techniques for glueing from the underside. I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the plaster and injecting “no more nails” no more nails then lifting the ceiling with screws at about 200mm centres.
I thought you were in my garage for a second! I have the exact same shocking amount of sag & didn’t even know it was this (relatively) simple to fix. Just need to find a place where I can hire those lifts/stanchions. The ‘quick-grip’ mechanism they have is perfect for this job eh!
@@billshowto Thing is, I only need them to fix what will be an investment property as of next month. I’ll be moving into an apartment, hence the need to hire.
Hey Bill, idea for a video if it works for you. Converting that roller door garage to an automatic one? I've got double rollers that I want to do, but no idea where to start
I have a sagging sealing in my lounge room (1987 highest house) but there is no crawlspace between the ceiling and roof. The ceiling and roof are both fastened either side of the joists. After watching this video, I am guessing I can take a similar approach.
You could, use a stud finder to mark the ends of the joists and flick a chalk line between the marks so you can 'centre' the screws, you can't access the ceiling to add glue, but you don't need it the screws will be fine. Because it's 1987, the ceiling could be 13mm not 10mm (600mm centres) for the fixings 10mm was typically 450mm cts), so you may need 30mm long screws not the 25mm ones Bill used, plus you can get a 'flush' screw driver bit for your drill with a cap to countersink the screws about 0.75mm into the plasterboard ceiling to make patching a lot easier. Just wondering how you got on?
1 question just out of curiosity and educational purposes.... did you say you would remove the screws after the adhesive sets? If so why would you need to remove the screws rather then screw them up enough so you can filler and paint over them?
Hey Bill, How much would it cost for exactly what you did in this video from a tradie like yourself? Just today have recieved a report from my rental that this has occured exactly in the same spot in this video.
Well mate, divine intervention has brought me here as I have discovered this in my lounge room. Sad part is, the house is only 5 years old and the builder wants nothing to do with it. The good part is, that it's in the middle of the whole house... Easy to get to. Thanks heaps mate, I now have inspiration to give it a go! 👍
Are you in Oz? You should have a 7 Year Warranty for things like this.
@@josephking6515 yeah mate we do but as a lot of people people already know, sometimes it easier to just fix it yourself without all the drama. They make it that hard that I don't have the energy..... Needless to say, if I ever build again, they won't be on my short list
How did your ceiling repair work out?
OMG Bill I have this problem in my garage, the sagging is really bad and it’s a two door garage. I’m unable to get it fixed right now and I know that it’s going to be a replacement down the track. Thanks for the great video once again.
You’re welcome 👍👍👍
Those lifters are great. Thanks Bill. Well done.
One of my favorite tools👍
@@billshowto hey Bill where did you buy those lifter things from?
I need to get some!!!
@@billshowtohi mate are you in QLD GC
As Usual just what I wanted to know how to fix. Thanks Bill!!!.
You’re welcome 👍
Great video Bill of a very common issue. We would also install a trimmer just above the cornice, which should have been installed during its construction.
Had this sag and constant loud popping throughout my 30yr old house, held by nails.
Used 2000 odd Bunnings bugle head screws to sort it, in some places had 1” drop.
I got a par of those sheet lifters from Aldi 5 or 6 years ago, I tossed them out because they went all rusty, about 12 months before i noticed my ceiling starting to sag... luckily it was only small areas that i was able to pull up with screws.
👍👍👍
perfect job I'll definitely get me some of those...great job mate
👍👍👍
Thanks mate. I have this exact issue in my garage and some spots throughout the house where the original owners(or trade people) have cut through the metal plasterboard battens to install down lights and the ceiling is sagging in spots….
That dosnt sound good
worked for me. Thanks Bill.
My garage ceiling did the exact same thing and dropped far enough to am the roller door. Got back up using some pieces of 300 x 95 x 20 to spread the load across the plasterboard and went right across the ceiling. Happened just 8 years from new and it seems like this is a common problem so why don't they over glue that area near the wall? The plasterer was a bit light on using the glue (only found that out much later) because I watched him putting the full sheets up during the build. Now have screw holes showing where it's dropped slightly inside the house, but now for the "good" bit.
In 2013 I made an insurance claim and got this fixed and unfortunately I wasn't there when the removed the plasterboard. They told me it took *three pulls* to get all the plaster sheets down from a larger than double garage. The beams were so out of level they put a metal frame in to level it then attached the plaster to the metal and did a pretty nice job too. After learning about the _three pulls_ I am now just waiting for the ceiling in the rest of the house to start raining plasterboard.
*Thank You* for the video Bill. 👍
Greatttt video! So much info in a short time, great job
👍👍👍
Great tutorial mate! The support pole you’ve listed in the description only extends to 115cm.
That was the largest size available on Amazon. Depending on where you live, different store stock the larger sizes
What bill is describing is a very typical issue in garage areas, usually near the roll a doors mainly due to the extremes in temperature and humidity changes from the dwelling areas and outside, the garage can get to be over 20 degrees hotter in summer than the outside area, I've been in roof spaces where the outside temperature is 'measured' at 42oC, however remember that's measured 'in the shade' so the actual temperature may be 30o Hotter. The roof space measured 56oC, which will cause the ceiling sheets to 'bow and sag', as the adhesives crystalise and become brittle, also the plaster or drywall lining sheets weaken as the moisture is expelled from them (plaster - gypsum sheets, absorb and expel moisture) and so they will 'breath' with humidity changes also creating issues. By using supplementary fastenings (Stud Adhesive) and permanent fasteners - nails or screws the ceiling can be made to return to it's original position. Leave the temporary props in place as long as you can as the sag or bow will need to be relieved to become flat again. - Great Video.
👍
Hey Bill, just wondering if you would use the same method for old horse hair plaster ceilings? We have a very minor sag in one of the bedrooms of our 80 year old house.
Hi Taylor, you can but you need a larger footprint to increase the area of the fastener so poke over the screw a cap or paper washer (A piece of plasterers paper tape or a section from a manilla folder) about the size of a $0.20 cent piece soaked with plaster when screwed in to hold against the head of the screw and underside of the plaster, if there is anyway to access the roof space easily and is there insulation in the roof space? As horsehair plaster/fibrous plaster (plasterglass) is more brittle than plasterboard. the way to reinforce sagging fibrous ceiling plasters is to 'scrim' the back of the sheet with 'rope straps' -hemp or sisal rope material 'teased' and soaked in plaster to set and hold the sheet in place. a bit of a chore but highly successful when done properly.
Sorry, may be a stupid q, but how did you know where to screw (i.e., how did you know there were joists above where you were screwing into the ceiling)?
Easiest way is with a stud finder👍👍👍
Good video as well as the others that I have looked at.
You didn’t remove the dust between the battens and the plaster. Is there a limit on the amount of dust that the glue can tolerate? I have heaps of dust and debris as the roof was not installed with sarking.
The one room that I have inspected due to cracking I discovered the sagging as well - I fear for a lot more work as cornices in other rooms have also sagged. The crawl space limits what I can access to the middle 30% of the ceiling. The plaster has replaced older lathe and plaster, I guess about 30 years ago, but is only nailed in without glued. Do you have any techniques for glueing from the underside. I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the plaster and injecting “no more nails” no more nails then lifting the ceiling with screws at about 200mm centres.
I thought you were in my garage for a second! I have the exact same shocking amount of sag & didn’t even know it was this (relatively) simple to fix.
Just need to find a place where I can hire those lifts/stanchions. The ‘quick-grip’ mechanism they have is perfect for this job eh!
They’re pretty cheap to purchase. If you shop around you can find them for about $30-40 each 👍
@@billshowto Thing is, I only need them to fix what will be an investment property as of next month. I’ll be moving into an apartment, hence the need to hire.
Hey Bill, idea for a video if it works for you. Converting that roller door garage to an automatic one? I've got double rollers that I want to do, but no idea where to start
i will add it to my list 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍 Bro for your help
I have a sagging sealing in my lounge room (1987 highest house) but there is no crawlspace between the ceiling and roof. The ceiling and roof are both fastened either side of the joists. After watching this video, I am guessing I can take a similar approach.
You could, use a stud finder to mark the ends of the joists and flick a chalk line between the marks so you can 'centre' the screws, you can't access the ceiling to add glue, but you don't need it the screws will be fine. Because it's 1987, the ceiling could be 13mm not 10mm (600mm centres) for the fixings 10mm was typically 450mm cts), so you may need 30mm long screws not the 25mm ones Bill used, plus you can get a 'flush' screw driver bit for your drill with a cap to countersink the screws about 0.75mm into the plasterboard ceiling to make patching a lot easier. Just wondering how you got on?
Great video. Thanks.
Bloody ripper mate!
👍👍👍
Very helpful video Bill👍👍just wondering where can we get those lifters from?
Thanks mate
How to do identify where the stud is?
Hay mate, are you using plaster screws or just timber screws, cheers
Good one mate.
👍👍👍
1 question just out of curiosity and educational purposes.... did you say you would remove the screws after the adhesive sets? If so why would you need to remove the screws rather then screw them up enough so you can filler and paint over them?
No, leave the screws in there. I was trying to explain how important the adhesive is👍
@@billshowto aha.... thanks for the response and thanks for the great content, I have learnt plenty from your quality content 🙏
Legend thanks
thaks cuz👍
👍👍👍
👍👍👍
Hey Bill, I have a couple of odd jobs which need fixing up. Is there any way to get in touch with you to see if they’re something you can help with?
Hi, unfortunately i don’t on any private works as I’m really stretched for time. Hopefully in the future👍
Hey Bill,
How much would it cost for exactly what you did in this video from a tradie like yourself?
Just today have recieved a report from my rental that this has occured exactly in the same spot in this video.
Hi mate are u in QLD ??
Nice
American builder here, I am absolutely horrified by this. Are most Australian ceilings really just held up with glue?
And screws😂
And hopes and dreams
Awsome
Thats what my kids bathroom looks like right now🤦🤦
It’s common in a bathroom for just the cornice to drop which is repaired in a different way👍
that's not an impressive job, since plasterboards easily breaks if you push it up after long time sagging