I agree with the other user that it would have been more helpful if the camera had been closer to show greater detail when it came time to install the new boot. However, I appreciated that this video was exactly the same machine that I have, and I was able to successfully replace my door boot thanks to this video. As with any fix-it video, watch the entire thing at least once prior to attempting to follow the steps. A couple of notes that helped me to be successful: I used a sharpie to mark where the screw at the top of the inner cinch was so that I would know how far to tighten it upon replacement. Also, I didn't have to use a flat blade screw driver to get the second spring-loaded cable in place I think because I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the loop of the spring instead of my fingers. I was then able to use just the fingers of my other hand to get the cable into the V. Thanks for the video!
Thank you! Would have had to spend $1200 for a new one without this. An update, five years after this was made: My Maytag used T20 star head nuts for the top, consul and door. (Still a Philips on the ring tightened.) There were also a hose and a sensor that plugged into the newer style gasket, but they were obvious and required no tools. Thanks again!
mine just leaked all over the kitchen and i’ve been putting it off in anticipation of buying a house where i could install a water softener since things are so hard where i am. going to be attempting this in the next week or two and appreciate the instruction!
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. My Maytag was newer with mostly Torx screws, but the basics were the same. The inside edge of the gasket was frustrating but eventually went on correctly. The outside clamp with spring was so tight and virtually impossible to get back on without pulling the gasket off track or damaging it. Ended up bending the clamp to take the spring off, then stretching the spring back onto the clamp and closing the bend with pliers. If i have to do this again, I'll buy a new clamp and or a longer spring.
I appreciate your methodology of repair instruction more than any other I have seen on youtube. I have a Maytag Neptune Washer and Dryer set that I have (almost completely) rebuilt using a second set for parts (basically, I made 1 set from 2). I have done this work primarily from your instruction and I have NEVER done this sort of thing before! Thank you very much! Keep up the good work!
MissMarta Nelson Oh my gosh how I miss my Neptunes! THE best washing machine and dryer I've ever owned. I was so bummed when the motherboard died on them. I had one of the first made....lucky you!
Would you perhaps have another video on the same Maytag Nepture Washer of removing mold, bad smell from inside and bottom drain pipe. Thank you for this video, very detail and super clear!
Just want to add that when I opened the back panel I was looking to clean out the pump-filter (it's opening was facing towards the washing machines door ) No way could this filter be reached and cleaned out in that position. So, used your video to open up the front. Thanx again for the video.
Exactly the right way to do this. Don't try to shortcut it. You may want to block up the front feet 3 or 4 inches to make easier to access the front screws on the newer models. Don't try to do it without removing the front panel as some videos recommend its way to frustrating and you end up doing the job this way.
Good video on how to replace the door bellow. I was able to complete this in about 35 - 40 minutes. Directions almost spot on. The unit I worked on was a Maytag series 4000 washer .. Thanks for the advise
I used a Maytag part and it fit in place. I saw a/m parts but went with eom Maytag. It was not that hard to replace. It took about 30 minutes. The hardest part was putting the spring loaded ring back on. It has been used several times and no leaks.
Very helpful. Following the video, I easily changed the boot. I didn't use a flat blade screw driver to get the second spring-loaded cable in place. I used two paint can lid openers (like a small flat blade screw driver except curved up at the point). Worked easily the first time. I had a slight drip on the first load and thereafter, no dripping.
The most difficulty i had was getting the darn spring back onto the grove along with the seal. Every time I went to try and stretch the spring the entire thing kept coming off. FRUSTRATING!
Be aware there appears to be at least 2 sizes. WE fought for 2 hours to get the shipped part before laying it out and lining up the two bottom drains and found the old boot was at least an inch bigger. Every time we thought we had it, stretching the wire popped it off. I scrubbed as much of the mold/mildew (our reason for replacing) so it looked better and that went on in minutes. When SHE wants it replaced next time, "Hey Mr. Maytag man!!!" The incredible stupid part is I used to work for that Sears in home repair service fixing washers and dryers.
Great video....I couldnt really see/understand the front ring [Ill figure it out when I get there] but loved the close up on the interior ring you tightened. Nice straight forward and detailed. Now Is the boot seal part # you give universal for all Maytags? Mine is 8.5 yrs old...I dont think the flexseal patch job is going to last much longer! thanks!
What should I do if the inside clamp doesn’t have a piece to keep the screw tight? I’m not sure how it was holding up before but I’m trying to screw it back on and the screw isn’t tightening to anything.
I appreciate this video and how to fix this issue ourselves. However, I must add that on a barely 5 year old machine that has always had it's door left open after its use, I find this very disappointing to even to fix. I had a set of the Neptunes when they first came out. Because they sat in the kitchen of our home back then, I didn't leave the door open. I had no issues with mold in that washer, ever.
"Let me show you how WE do it (grin)" = Legend! This guy knows, as any of us appliance techs do, that sometimes you have to go back and fix someone elses dodo, and you see some real golden dodo sometimes.
We do not have a video for this repair yet. To replace the door bellows, you would start by disengaging the bellows from the front panel. Then, you should remove the top and front panels to give better access for removing the bellows from the tub.
I wish all instructional videos were as well done as yours. No unnecessary banter, just good instruction with good video.
Thanks so much for saying that, and for watching!
Brilliant Video. No gimmicks, just a guy teaching us how to do a job right.
Not a part the average homeowner replaces everyday, so this video was extremely helpful. Couldn't have done it without you, thank you!!
Loved that you got straight to the point! How to videos can be 10 minutes of dialogue before getting to the reason for watching ever starts!
Folks -- this dude knows what he is doing for sure.
Thanks a lot for this video, it really helped. Some more close shots for the springs and water drain grooves would've been helpful. Great video.
I was so proud of myself for replacing that crazy boot! But I had to save the spring wire for my husband!
I agree with the other user that it would have been more helpful if the camera had been closer to show greater detail when it came time to install the new boot. However, I appreciated that this video was exactly the same machine that I have, and I was able to successfully replace my door boot thanks to this video. As with any fix-it video, watch the entire thing at least once prior to attempting to follow the steps.
A couple of notes that helped me to be successful: I used a sharpie to mark where the screw at the top of the inner cinch was so that I would know how far to tighten it upon replacement. Also, I didn't have to use a flat blade screw driver to get the second spring-loaded cable in place I think because I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the loop of the spring instead of my fingers. I was then able to use just the fingers of my other hand to get the cable into the V.
Thanks for the video!
Not sure what model he was working on but putting that last spring back on was insane basically not possible.
Thank you! Would have had to spend $1200 for a new one without this.
An update, five years after this was made:
My Maytag used T20 star head nuts for the top, consul and door. (Still a Philips on the ring tightened.)
There were also a hose and a sensor that plugged into the newer style gasket, but they were obvious and required no tools.
Thanks again!
You're welcome, Robert! Glad you were able to get it done!
Most videos uses a special tool for the spring loaded front retainer. Loved how you made it simple with just a flathead
mine just leaked all over the kitchen and i’ve been putting it off in anticipation of buying a house where i could install a water softener since things are so hard where i am. going to be attempting this in the next week or two and appreciate the instruction!
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. My Maytag was newer with mostly Torx screws, but the basics were the same. The inside edge of the gasket was frustrating but eventually went on correctly. The outside clamp with spring was so tight and virtually impossible to get back on without pulling the gasket off track or damaging it. Ended up bending the clamp to take the spring off, then stretching the spring back onto the clamp and closing the bend with pliers. If i have to do this again, I'll buy a new clamp and or a longer spring.
Awesome instructions! Thanks!
Wow ,great tutorial. Saved me $250
So great to hear!
I appreciate your methodology of repair instruction more than any other I have seen on youtube. I have a Maytag Neptune Washer and Dryer set that I have (almost completely) rebuilt using a second set for parts (basically, I made 1 set from 2). I have done this work primarily from your instruction and I have NEVER done this sort of thing before! Thank you very much! Keep up the good work!
MissMarta Nelson Oh my gosh how I miss my Neptunes! THE best washing machine and dryer I've ever owned. I was so bummed when the motherboard died on them. I had one of the first made....lucky you!
Would you perhaps have another video on the same Maytag Nepture Washer of removing mold, bad smell from inside and bottom drain pipe. Thank you for this video, very detail and super clear!
Thank you sir! No more leaks!
Had one problem, inner clamp, had to spray it with a rust dissolver and still had problems getting inner clamp removed
Just want to add that when I opened the back panel I was looking to clean out the pump-filter (it's opening was facing towards the washing machines door ) No way could this filter be reached and cleaned out in that position. So, used your video to open up the front. Thanx again for the video.
Thanks for your step by step instruction. Never figure out by myself !
Thanks for a nice easy to follow video
Great video! Really like the way you showed the work involved. Very helpful. I can tackle my own washer now!
Thanks, Peter! Really happy to hear that this video helped with your repair!
Exactly the right way to do this. Don't try to shortcut it. You may want to block up the front feet 3 or 4 inches to make easier to access the front screws on the newer models. Don't try to do it without removing the front panel as some videos recommend its way to frustrating and you end up doing the job this way.
Good video on how to replace the door bellow. I was able to complete this in about 35 - 40 minutes. Directions almost spot on. The unit I worked on was a Maytag series 4000 washer .. Thanks for the advise
Hi, I need to replace mine as well. Did you have to use a maytag piece or any generic gasket works.
I used a Maytag part and it fit in place. I saw a/m parts but went with eom Maytag. It was not that hard to replace. It took about 30 minutes. The hardest part was putting the spring loaded ring back on. It has been used several times and no leaks.
Very helpful. Following the video, I easily changed the boot. I didn't use a flat blade screw driver to get the second spring-loaded cable in place. I used two paint can lid openers (like a small flat blade screw driver except curved up at the point). Worked easily the first time. I had a slight drip on the first load and thereafter, no dripping.
Brilliant man! Paint can openers sound like the way to go for sure!
The most difficulty i had was getting the darn spring back onto the grove along with the seal. Every time I went to try and stretch the spring the entire thing kept coming off. FRUSTRATING!
Really well done video, thank you.
Thanks for the great tutorial
Be aware there appears to be at least 2 sizes. WE fought for 2 hours to get the shipped part before laying it out and lining up the two bottom drains and found the old boot was at least an inch bigger. Every time we thought we had it, stretching the wire popped it off. I scrubbed as much of the mold/mildew (our reason for replacing) so it looked better and that went on in minutes. When SHE wants it replaced next time, "Hey Mr. Maytag man!!!" The incredible stupid part is I used to work for that Sears in home repair service fixing washers and dryers.
Great video explained very well ty for sharing
Thank you! Did this today. Great video
Thank you!!!
You are just frickin' awesome .....thanx for this tutorial.
Well done!
Washer works fine no drips are errors
Thank you for the information. It was very helpful and simple to repair.
Great video....I couldnt really see/understand the front ring [Ill figure it out when I get there] but loved the close up on the interior ring you tightened. Nice straight forward and detailed. Now Is the boot seal part # you give universal for all Maytags? Mine is 8.5 yrs old...I dont think the flexseal patch job is going to last much longer! thanks!
What should I do if the inside clamp doesn’t have a piece to keep the screw tight? I’m not sure how it was holding up before but I’m trying to screw it back on and the screw isn’t tightening to anything.
hello sir your up load all videos very usefuly thank you very much.
I appreciate this video and how to fix this issue ourselves. However, I must add that on a barely 5 year old machine that has always had it's door left open after its use, I find this very disappointing to even to fix. I had a set of the Neptunes when they first came out. Because they sat in the kitchen of our home back then, I didn't leave the door open. I had no issues with mold in that washer, ever.
Disposable culture... build it cheaply, use it for a few years, throw it away, buy new. Keeps the corporations happy.
WONDERFUL presentation, thanks so much.
My boot needs 2 hoses attacked but this washer doesnt have that
Appreciated this video very much!!
Thank you. Job done.
Glad the video was helpful, James!
"Let me show you how WE do it (grin)" = Legend! This guy knows, as any of us appliance techs do, that sometimes you have to go back and fix someone elses dodo, and you see some real golden dodo sometimes.
thanks sir
Thank you. We're doing was again.😁
Winder my sister fixing this said she was and it's Friday drive by and maybe see if they are decent think officer white maybe
To replace door seal on Bosch model waq283s0gb
We do not have a video for this repair yet. To replace the door bellows, you would start by disengaging the bellows from the front panel. Then, you should remove the top and front panels to give better access for removing the bellows from the tub.
Maybe don’t put the camera ten feet away next time
jesus, can this be more complicated???
too far away to see anything
Not enough in depth video . Video is from a distance and you cannot see what he is doing or talking about.
Thank you!!