Same colours for AC and DC, EMC filter wiring and mounting like this, to only name a few 🙊. It's good enough for prototyping, but its not good enough for any real standard.
@@DannyBokma true, but for someone who is new to it he did a good job with connection and routing. Plus this is for personal use not commercial, so he doesn't have to use iso wiring standard.
Год назад+6
Nide Video adn great work, keep it coming. Slight oversight in the beginning, that I saw in your other video as well, when you measure the steel square and say 20 centimeters, it is actually two centimeters or 20 millimeters.
Just adding a bit of experience after building custom 3D printers : don't mix AC and DC cabling in the raceways. It's better to work on when you need to debug with the machine powered on (yeah, not a good idea, but it WILL happen), and it's a security for the improbable catastrophic mechanical failure. Also, swapping the DC PSUs with the distribution rails will reduce the length of AC, and will let you neatly separate the AC side of your cabling from the DC one. Especially when you use black/red for AC (if there is one point critical, it's this one). Nothing vital, but a clean separation can help a lot. Put a plexiglass panel in front of the AC side (with a cut for the breakers), and it's very fool proof. Overall, a great series i will follow ! ;)
Hallo, nice and clean job. Some tips. Mount everingthing on an metal plate. This is common for control cabinets. Use different wire colors for your mains voltage and your controls DC voltage. Your earth wirering looks likes therr missing something. Check the manuals. Normaly your emergency stop button is connected to a safety relay. The safety relay contacts switch a main relay that switch on all you devices like motor drivers, fans, ect. It also enables a mail air valve. After a emergency stop you have to reset the safety relay with a reset button Good luck with everyting
Hello Travis, I am currently setting up the same system only with CO2 tube and fiber laser. I also bought the Raycus1500 and the new RDC6563FG-LITE controller (has the same connections) You wrote that the wiring instructions from the Ruida controller to the Raycus were not correct. Do you have a wiring list that you can give me so that I don't have to test everything first. I would be very grateful. Kind regards from Switzerland Guido
You should centrate the collimating lens, when the cut is not regular in a 4 shapes the problem is the center of the beam. Other problem that you can have is the nozzle, try to use nozzle 1.0 for 3mm 0,3 mpa of pressure 2500 3000 mm/s
Love the videos really interesting build. I notice you keep saying cm instead of mm 😉 don't make that mistake In cad or your parts will come out really big 🤣
You protected the power supplies. I didn't see anything for the drivers or the controller. You can put a fuse on the positive side to take care of that and if you wanted to you could wire the breaker into the estop switch so that it turns off in the event of overload. Sorry I just installed a weeky cnc router for a friend and had to replace some of the safety stops. That machine has 20. Half had shorts in the contacts so I had to replace them so I could power on the controller. The good thing is that he forgot to touch off a bit and the z axis and the spindle tripped when it tried to push through the spoil board. That turned everything off and had to be reset and rehomed and everything was fine. I worry about drivers on every diy cnc because they protect the power supply and then don't fuse the drivers or controler. Just know that this comes from the fact that one driver will probably not overload the power supply so you have the potential for destroying a component. Also try to only run low voltage with low voltage and high with high. Ac and dc don't always play nice and this can lead to lost steps and other problems later on down the road.
About wiring the laser source wiring: What were the conclusions of those guessings? (just in case we meet that same incorrect Ruida diagram) One more thing I even more wanted to know: How does someone 'test fire' a 1000W laser ? (I hope that bruise on your left thumbnail is not a result of a test fire :-)
From a controls engineering stand point, the biggest issue is, that that is a lot of high voltage,and high current stuff. Really needs to be in a steel enclosure. (Electrical code) massive fire hazard...
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
From an Industrial Electrician, looks like you did a good job with the wiring.
Same colours for AC and DC, EMC filter wiring and mounting like this, to only name a few 🙊. It's good enough for prototyping, but its not good enough for any real standard.
@@DannyBokma true, but for someone who is new to it he did a good job with connection and routing. Plus this is for personal use not commercial, so he doesn't have to use iso wiring standard.
Nide Video adn great work, keep it coming. Slight oversight in the beginning, that I saw in your other video as well, when you measure the steel square and say 20 centimeters, it is actually two centimeters or 20 millimeters.
Thanks for this episode! And now I want to modernize my workshop.
Just adding a bit of experience after building custom 3D printers : don't mix AC and DC cabling in the raceways. It's better to work on when you need to debug with the machine powered on (yeah, not a good idea, but it WILL happen), and it's a security for the improbable catastrophic mechanical failure. Also, swapping the DC PSUs with the distribution rails will reduce the length of AC, and will let you neatly separate the AC side of your cabling from the DC one. Especially when you use black/red for AC (if there is one point critical, it's this one).
Nothing vital, but a clean separation can help a lot. Put a plexiglass panel in front of the AC side (with a cut for the breakers), and it's very fool proof.
Overall, a great series i will follow ! ;)
Thanks for the feedback...I see your point and will definitely consider that in the future
Can you go onto more detail on which each wire for the laser relates so using those sheets in 07:53
Yes, I made a more detailed wiring video on Patreon
Hallo,
nice and clean job.
Some tips. Mount everingthing on an metal plate. This is common for control cabinets.
Use different wire colors for your mains voltage and your controls DC voltage.
Your earth wirering looks likes therr missing something. Check the manuals.
Normaly your emergency stop button is connected to a safety relay. The safety relay contacts switch a main relay that switch on all you devices like motor drivers, fans, ect.
It also enables a mail air valve.
After a emergency stop you have to reset the safety relay with a reset button
Good luck with everyting
This is awesome. A very thoughtful approach!
Very clean electronics install. Nice work!
Personally, I'd take off that reflective material on the walls. Lasers being lasers and all.
Thanks, I agree....I 'm thinking I would like to paint it all a matte black
I just thought of a question, can this machine engrave or is that not possible with such a powerful laser?
What is that machine in the background on the workbench? It looks like a small desktop cnc lathe. Maybe?
Never mind. I just stumbled upon your video about it! 😂
Nice work!
Hello Travis,
I am currently setting up the same system only with CO2 tube and fiber laser.
I also bought the Raycus1500 and the new RDC6563FG-LITE controller (has the same connections)
You wrote that the wiring instructions from the Ruida controller to the Raycus were not correct.
Do you have a wiring list that you can give me so that I don't have to test everything first. I would be very grateful.
Kind regards from Switzerland
Guido
The wiring diagram is on my Patreon page, the pins might be different from the F version, I don’t have the Lite user manual to check
@@diyfiberlaser many thanks for your answer
Can you use Lightburn w/ your laser build?
so awesome! I am impressed.
Hi Travis, thanks for the video. Do you perhaps have a link where you bought the Fuji Servo motor? Thanks!
Sorry, no, I bought it used on eBay
You should centrate the collimating lens, when the cut is not regular in a 4 shapes the problem is the center of the beam.
Other problem that you can have is the nozzle, try to use nozzle 1.0 for 3mm 0,3 mpa of pressure 2500 3000 mm/s
Love the videos really interesting build. I notice you keep saying cm instead of mm 😉 don't make that mistake In cad or your parts will come out really big 🤣
You protected the power supplies. I didn't see anything for the drivers or the controller. You can put a fuse on the positive side to take care of that and if you wanted to you could wire the breaker into the estop switch so that it turns off in the event of overload.
Sorry I just installed a weeky cnc router for a friend and had to replace some of the safety stops. That machine has 20. Half had shorts in the contacts so I had to replace them so I could power on the controller. The good thing is that he forgot to touch off a bit and the z axis and the spindle tripped when it tried to push through the spoil board. That turned everything off and had to be reset and rehomed and everything was fine.
I worry about drivers on every diy cnc because they protect the power supply and then don't fuse the drivers or controler. Just know that this comes from the fact that one driver will probably not overload the power supply so you have the potential for destroying a component.
Also try to only run low voltage with low voltage and high with high. Ac and dc don't always play nice and this can lead to lost steps and other problems later on down the road.
0:29 20 cm... 20mm🤣
outstanding project!!!
Bisakah saya minta wiring source laser ke kontroller
About wiring the laser source wiring: What were the conclusions of those guessings? (just in case we meet that same incorrect Ruida diagram)
One more thing I even more wanted to know: How does someone 'test fire' a 1000W laser ? (I hope that bruise on your left thumbnail is not a result of a test fire :-)
Muito bom ! Parabéns.
0:28 CENTIMETERS?!?
From a controls engineering stand point, the biggest issue is, that that is a lot of high voltage,and high current stuff. Really needs to be in a steel enclosure. (Electrical code) massive fire hazard...
👍👍
I think you meant millimetres 😂
0:27 And again same fail ... 20 centimeter? Really?
Deliberate mistake to generate "interaction"?
I had the same thought. That's clearly 40cm.
That’s 20 millimeter not centimeters at your measuring!
MILLImeters. Please do yourself a favour and learn the SI prefix system. If you can build a laser cutter it will only take you 2 minutes.