When you said quick intro I was expecting vague already known info but you did an amazing job explaining everything. I feel smarter after watching this lol
This is fantastic information. How this works is often misunderstood by mechanics. Now I know why the viscous fan comes on for the first few seconds of driving in my E38 and E65. The fluid has to redistribute before the clutch can spin freely. I did suffer the jammed clutch problem once on my E38. I heard the fan scream so I backed off and drove home not exceeding 2000 RPM. My Z3 has a bimetallic component on the front of the clutch which controls some sort of valve. I need to see if I can adjust it because it's on too much at the moment.
Would like to say that this video helped me to identify how the coolant circulates from the pump to the heater matrix. Have had trouble with my m60 engined e30 and it appears I had the hoses the wrong way around. Now I have the smaller pipe going into my matrix then the larger from the matrix back to the pump Cheers, Ant 😎
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Certainly did mate. I drove the car for the first time today only up the street and back. My god what an animal haha. Still need to bleed her out though as she's playing hard to get. Chucking a pressure bleeder on it tommorow fingers crossed Thanks again Tim
Many Thanks for this lovely job you are doing with videos and web site. I´m having power problems with my e38 m62, and your work is helping me so much. Keep going Sir + best whishes
Hi Timm, I appreciate your videos a lot, they are gold to me. I have a problem with my E38 740D (M67) cooling system. My EGR Cooler was leaking, so that was replaced. I have also replaced viscous clutch, thermostat, EGR thermostat. Now whenever I reach higher temperature with the car (88-91C), coolant will flush out of my expansion tank cap due to overpressure. I would be grateful for any ideas what could cause the issue. CHEERS !
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks for your reply. I have also replaced the expansion tank Cap as well as all vent screws. The level was right. Is there any chance my cylinder head gaskets are leaking combustion gas into my cooling system through one of the channels ? Tried a CO2 test, came out slightly positive. There is no yellow mas forming anywhere, also no sign for coolant combustion in the exhaust. I appreciate your time and help.
Thank you very much for sharing these valuable information!!! Just subscribed. So I recently got BMW e38 2000 v12 750iL m73 engine and I am wondering what should be engine operating temperature? I recently replace one hose that was cracked and bleed the system with the 50/50 blue bmw coolant. The gauge is sitting in the middle perfectly but when I unlock the KTMP is reading 105-108 celsius while idling and it goes down to 103-104 when driving. Any suggestions? Thanks again!!!
Hi, would you recommend lower temperature thermostat fo M62 and unplug the wire from it or go with OEM 105 celsius thermostat? I have activation Map cooling error, so the heating element is probalby done. Went threw many different opinions on forums and I am confused... somene says get lower thermostat someone says go with OEM 105 thermostat... can you help me? Thank you :)
Hi Tim, i have just replaced thermostat and waterpump. Intermittently i and getting message coolant level low, however when i check the expansion tank its fine (as i just replaced everything) . So my thinking is that it could be a coolant level sensor issue, maybe a connection etc. Where is this sensor located please ?
This is usually a leak in the expansion tank - the level sensor is underneath it in is magnetically coupled to a float in the tank. The usual problem is that you get a tiny leak from the internal parts of the tank, and the coolant ends up in the sensor. I have a video where I replace the expansion tank and another where I chop it up!
Hi Tim... thank you for all your great videos.. I have a question that I havnt found an answer to anywhere on the net. Can you tell me how I can flush the coolant system in the m62 engine? I had a mishap with transmission oil cooler breaking down and I got tranny oil in my coolant system.. ever since I will find oil in the reservoir every couple thousand kilometres and I'm afraid that if might clog up one of the water passages over time like cholesterol in the blood. Giving my car a stroke essentially lol.. it seems like a complicated system and I can't see how I can thoroughly flush places like the valley pan
Hi Timm, what are your thoughts on the 90c thermostat being sold for N62 engine? Is it worth getting to prolonge engine life and keep transmission cool?
I have always been very mechanical and can understand a mechanical system and how it works once I see it. I do however, have problems with diagrams and verbal explainations. At one point you said with the heater on high temp and reving the engine the air is eventually forced to the radiator and then to the expansion tank. So why does it need a bleeder valve? No car I have ever owned has had one. I've had Audi's, BMWs and Mercedes and uncountable American cars. Is this unique to these particular cars? You said the heater core is higher than the radiator at one point which is hard to imagine. Wish I was there to see it then I would know.
Hello Werner, the heater core is lower than the radiator - but the heater valves, pipework and auxiliary water pump are higher - and it is there that accumulates air pockets. There is not any real need for a bleed point, as long as the heater system has no air pockets then the system will self-bleed.
Hello Timm! Nice work explaining the cooling system of this old V8s. I have a E39 540i and I notice when the car is at operating temperature, when I step on the accelerator, I get to hear this loud fan noise. It's like am driving a big truck. I don't get to hear the roar of that M62. What could I do pls?
Thanks for the explanation - very helpful. I have an M62B44 race engine and was wondering what a good operating temp would be. From your video it looks like the standard engine runs about 120*C (I've been struggling to keep my engine below 100*C. Oil Temp is 95*C. I have no mechanical pump (impeller removed) and use a Craig Davies EWP on large cross flow radiator for flow control (runs off an EWP controller that pulse the pump at low temp and comes on full time over a set temp). I also didn't realise to keep the expansion tank level below the intake from the over flow (so I might be sucking air back into the radiator). Good to know that the higher pressure helps to keep the water from vaporising (into steam) within the engine creating hot (steam) point which would increase hot spots (no water to carry heat away). Thanks again.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Sorted. Previous owner had installed the EWP at the bottom of the radiator, but hose to the header tank was on original mechanical water pump (impeller/belt removed). Thermostat was also removed. This caused 'colder' water to circulate into the header tank (bypassing the engine). There was also a very small restrictor left in where the thermostat was (we removed that and idle was 94*C at outlet). During race the oil was 116*C and Water 93*C at full noise. 1 small question. The race car has no cabin heater or cooler. The accumulator at the rear of the engine has the cabin pipes removed and welded off. Can I block the small transfer tube from the old thermostat/mixer to the rear of the engine? My thought are it it transfer 'cooler' water from the radiator to the rear accumulator which is mixing with hot engine water can thus some is returning to the front via the large tube (and not cooling the engine). The EQP has a controller that pulses and variably powers the EWP so not hot spots - comes on 100% when over 85*C. thanks again - David
@@davidproud4039 Hello David, the coolant from the rear accumulator should go in the other direction - from the accumulator to the water pump housing - just like the large pipe does. However, with the heater pipes welded shut there will be no water going either way!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Hi. to clarify, the 'backside' of the accumulator (where the cabin pipes were) are welded closed (as the pipes removed). The two pipes above the valley are still there (and open). Thus I think the 2 pipes above the valley are still working (they both get very hot). I'm sure the large pipe is working as this is how the hot water gets from the back of the engine to the radiator (through the now 'empty' void of the old impeller. The smaller pipe above the valley connects the Thermostat/Mixer to the accumulator, and from your video seems to flow from thermostat/mixer to the rear (as you say to prevent cold water hitting a hot engine) - the EWP always pulses off/on to prevent thermal shock while warming up (full on when T over 85*C). So I now understand your comment - both pipes go the same way (from rear to front). My question is, I don't think I need the small pipe above the valley to feed 'hot' water into the mixer as the EWP pulsing/full does this now? If I block the small pipe then the engine should get more cooler water?
@@davidproud4039 The smaller over-valley pipe takes coolant from the heater matrix to the mixing chamber. Although it looks like it is connected to the accumulator it isn't (or it shouldn't be), in fact, on the E31 with the V12 the pipe avoids the accumulator altogether and goes straight to the mixing chamber. So, either the accumulator has been damaged or the pipe is being heated by conduction rather than any coolant flowing through it. You don't need it if you don't have a heater!
Thanks For another great video! Timm, do you think many of the cooling system parts fail due to excessive pressure? I am debating changing the radiator cap on my 03 540i from a stock 2.0 bar to the 1.4 or 1.2 bar BMW radiator cap to reduce pressure, reduce failure of parts, and prolong their life. Have you heard of this modification?
Hello Alan, the cap will not make a jot of difference - unless the system is over-filled in which case it may reduce the system pressure. If the cooling system is filled correctly then the cap will have no effect on the system pressure as the pressure will be around 1 Bar or so. The real fix is to get rid of the temperature-mapped thermostat for an 85C or 95C fixed thermostat. See Bimmerforums - they have gone through this many times!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks Timm! I ordered the 88C 740d thermostat. It does not have the plug or heating element. I've read all weekend on Bimmerforums that a resistor must be used on the wiring harness to avoid the fault the DME will store. Do you know of a "plug-in" resistor that would safely work? I read the BMW 1000 ohm resistor (#13901734469) would work but I am unsure..... Thanks in advance.
I am confused by your schematic. On an N62 engine, there is a small diameter hose that runs from the upper part of the expansion tank to 2 points in the engine (it is a "Y" shaped hose). In your drawing you seem to show such a hose from the expansion tank but running to the Main Coolant Radiator which I don't think is the case. Incidentally, can that hose (in my description) be changed without draining the cooling system?
The 650i uses the same circuit as those featured in the video (M60, M62 and M70), you should see a long thin pipe on top of the radiator housing. In addition there is a Y pipe that bleeds the water pump.
Tim, I am having an issue with a 1997 E31. The temp indicator is always every so slightly passed the mid point. I mean you really have to concentrate to see it. I have had at least 2 occasions where it started to go up and then I guess aux fan kicked in. One time when it started to over heat I turned the car off and back on immediately and it was just fine ( slightly passed the half point ). It is very frustrating. Mind you I did some work on the heater valves but the problem was there even before that. Any idea what could be the issue. Oh and yes when I changed the fluid I did wait more than 5 minutes and things started bubbling out of the expnassion tank
Great video , i'm no stranger to m60/62 engines however , looked at this after struggling to get my new (to me) 2001 740i to bleed and behave , heaters are only luke warm at operating temp , and when driving the temp slowly creeps up too high , when bringing the revs up a bit higher 2000+ it goes back to normal promptly , water pump and thermostat look newish (but unknown to me) , radiator is brand new and genuine , also replaced expansion tank and cap , and viscous coupling (which seems to work) , interesting point is that if I put the A/C on the aux fan brings the temp down a little too , (i'm running IBUS software on Headunit to display coolant temp on the IKE for easy monitoring) as the dash gauge is pretty numb , any ideas? i've always followed the correct bleeding method on my previous cars and had very little hassle , sods law that the weekend cruiser gives me hassle and not the track based car!
It all depends what you mean by overheating - if you are below 120C then you are probably OK. Anything over that and your cooling efficiency is poor. If the temperature goes above 120C when travelling at 70 MPH or so then you r coolant probably is not circulating correctly....
I changed thermostat to 75 c and lower hose gets warm at 82c than I changed thermostat to 68 c and still opens at 82 c why is doing this sir, you think mixing chamber is causing this ?
If you are measuring the coolant temperature via the MID then that temperature is the OUTPUT from the engine - the thermostat operates from the radiator outlet temperature and hence will be at a lower temperature. I would not go any lower that 85C for the M60/M62 as this will increase consumption and wear. All explained here: ruclips.net/video/XGIk8IXSGIE/видео.html
When you said quick intro I was expecting vague already known info but you did an amazing job explaining everything. I feel smarter after watching this lol
Thank you! That was a very kind comment.
Thank you from New Zealand. I'm currently working on my wife's AC 540i. Minor fixes and a lot of fun.
Have fun!
Good shit Tim I have a E39 540 sport and I appreciate the in depth details, thank you
My pleasure Christopher!
Love your videos Timm. Thanks for taking the time to make them. Cheers.
Thanks for your help by the way.
Thanks! I'll keep doing them as long as I have stuff to talk about!
This is fantastic information. How this works is often misunderstood by mechanics. Now I know why the viscous fan comes on for the first few seconds of driving in my E38 and E65. The fluid has to redistribute before the clutch can spin freely. I did suffer the jammed clutch problem once on my E38. I heard the fan scream so I backed off and drove home not exceeding 2000 RPM. My Z3 has a bimetallic component on the front of the clutch which controls some sort of valve. I need to see if I can adjust it because it's on too much at the moment.
Would like to say that this video helped me to identify how the coolant circulates from the pump to the heater matrix.
Have had trouble with my m60 engined e30 and it appears I had the hoses the wrong way around.
Now I have the smaller pipe going into my matrix then the larger from the matrix back to the pump
Cheers, Ant 😎
Always my pleasure, and glad it helped!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Certainly did mate. I drove the car for the first time today only up the street and back. My god what an animal haha.
Still need to bleed her out though as she's playing hard to get. Chucking a pressure bleeder on it tommorow fingers crossed
Thanks again Tim
This is a GREAT video. I learned so much from you :) Thank You for sharing !
Thanks!
Many Thanks for this lovely job you are doing with videos and web site. I´m having power problems with my e38 m62, and your work is helping me so much. Keep going Sir + best whishes
Glad to hear that, thanks!
Thanks again Timm, Very helpful 👍
My pleasure!
Hi Timm, I appreciate your videos a lot, they are gold to me. I have a problem with my E38 740D (M67) cooling system. My EGR Cooler was leaking, so that was replaced. I have also replaced viscous clutch, thermostat, EGR thermostat. Now whenever I reach higher temperature with the car (88-91C), coolant will flush out of my expansion tank cap due to overpressure. I would be grateful for any ideas what could cause the issue. CHEERS !
Coolant will come out if the system is over-filled as it leaves no room for expansion. If the level was right get a new expansion-tank cap!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks for your reply. I have also replaced the expansion tank Cap as well as all vent screws. The level was right. Is there any chance my cylinder head gaskets are leaking combustion gas into my cooling system through one of the channels ? Tried a CO2 test, came out slightly positive. There is no yellow mas forming anywhere, also no sign for coolant combustion in the exhaust.
I appreciate your time and help.
Thank you very much for sharing these valuable information!!! Just subscribed.
So I recently got BMW e38 2000 v12 750iL m73 engine and I am wondering what should be engine operating temperature? I recently replace one hose that was cracked and bleed the system with the 50/50 blue bmw coolant. The gauge is sitting in the middle perfectly but when I unlock the KTMP is reading 105-108 celsius while idling and it goes down to 103-104 when driving. Any suggestions?
Thanks again!!!
Thanks! Perfect operating temperature for the M73!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thank you very much for your reply and help!!! I appreciate it a lot.
Hi, would you recommend lower temperature thermostat fo M62 and unplug the wire from it or go with OEM 105 celsius thermostat? I have activation Map cooling error, so the heating element is probalby done. Went threw many different opinions on forums and I am confused... somene says get lower thermostat someone says go with OEM 105 thermostat... can you help me? Thank you :)
I would be happier with a 95C stat
Thank you, much appreciated.
My Pleasure!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I've got a 2001 e39 525i, it's a wonderful car.
Hi does anyone happen to know how the m67d40 cooling system works? Or is the same as in the gasoline v8?
Hi Tim, i have just replaced thermostat and waterpump. Intermittently i and getting message coolant level low, however when i check the expansion tank its fine (as i just replaced everything) . So my thinking is that it could be a coolant level sensor issue, maybe a connection etc. Where is this sensor located please ?
This is usually a leak in the expansion tank - the level sensor is underneath it in is magnetically coupled to a float in the tank. The usual problem is that you get a tiny leak from the internal parts of the tank, and the coolant ends up in the sensor. I have a video where I replace the expansion tank and another where I chop it up!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation ok great thank you, I have purchased a new expansion tank just to be sure😊
This is excellent, thank you!
My pleasure!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation hope to see more contents to your channel! Good luck
Hi Tim... thank you for all your great videos.. I have a question that I havnt found an answer to anywhere on the net. Can you tell me how I can flush the coolant system in the m62 engine? I had a mishap with transmission oil cooler breaking down and I got tranny oil in my coolant system.. ever since I will find oil in the reservoir every couple thousand kilometres and I'm afraid that if might clog up one of the water passages over time like cholesterol in the blood. Giving my car a stroke essentially lol.. it seems like a complicated system and I can't see how I can thoroughly flush places like the valley pan
Sure Housam, I show it here: www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_Cooling_System_Flushing_Bleeding.htm
Hi Timm, what are your thoughts on the 90c thermostat being sold for N62 engine? Is it worth getting to prolonge engine life and keep transmission cool?
I have always been very mechanical and can understand a mechanical system and how it works once I see it. I do however, have problems with diagrams and verbal explainations.
At one point you said with the heater on high temp and reving the engine the air is eventually forced to the radiator and then to the expansion tank. So why does it need a bleeder valve?
No car I have ever owned has had one. I've had Audi's, BMWs and Mercedes and uncountable American cars.
Is this unique to these particular cars? You said the heater core is higher than the radiator at one point which is hard to imagine.
Wish I was there to see it then I would know.
Hello Werner, the heater core is lower than the radiator - but the heater valves, pipework and auxiliary water pump are higher - and it is there that accumulates air pockets. There is not any real need for a bleed point, as long as the heater system has no air pockets then the system will self-bleed.
Hello Timm! Nice work explaining the cooling system of this old V8s. I have a E39 540i and I notice when the car is at operating temperature, when I step on the accelerator, I get to hear this loud fan noise. It's like am driving a big truck. I don't get to hear the roar of that M62. What could I do pls?
Sounds like the viscous fan is stuck - have a watch of this ruclips.net/video/RDuGsDUiXQw/видео.html
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thank you Timm, I will watch the video. However, I just changed the viscous fan a week ago and same thing.
Thanks for the explanation - very helpful. I have an M62B44 race engine and was wondering what a good operating temp would be. From your video it looks like the standard engine runs about 120*C (I've been struggling to keep my engine below 100*C. Oil Temp is 95*C. I have no mechanical pump (impeller removed) and use a Craig Davies EWP on large cross flow radiator for flow control (runs off an EWP controller that pulse the pump at low temp and comes on full time over a set temp). I also didn't realise to keep the expansion tank level below the intake from the over flow (so I might be sucking air back into the radiator).
Good to know that the higher pressure helps to keep the water from vaporising (into steam) within the engine creating hot (steam) point which would increase hot spots (no water to carry heat away). Thanks again.
Thanks David! 85C would be my target at the inlet if possible.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Sorted. Previous owner had installed the EWP at the bottom of the radiator, but hose to the header tank was on original mechanical water pump (impeller/belt removed). Thermostat was also removed. This caused 'colder' water to circulate into the header tank (bypassing the engine). There was also a very small restrictor left in where the thermostat was (we removed that and idle was 94*C at outlet). During race the oil was 116*C and Water 93*C at full noise.
1 small question. The race car has no cabin heater or cooler. The accumulator at the rear of the engine has the cabin pipes removed and welded off. Can I block the small transfer tube from the old thermostat/mixer to the rear of the engine? My thought are it it transfer 'cooler' water from the radiator to the rear accumulator which is mixing with hot engine water can thus some is returning to the front via the large tube (and not cooling the engine). The EQP has a controller that pulses and variably powers the EWP so not hot spots - comes on 100% when over 85*C.
thanks again - David
@@davidproud4039 Hello David, the coolant from the rear accumulator should go in the other direction - from the accumulator to the water pump housing - just like the large pipe does. However, with the heater pipes welded shut there will be no water going either way!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Hi. to clarify, the 'backside' of the accumulator (where the cabin pipes were) are welded closed (as the pipes removed). The two pipes above the valley are still there (and open). Thus I think the 2 pipes above the valley are still working (they both get very hot). I'm sure the large pipe is working as this is how the hot water gets from the back of the engine to the radiator (through the now 'empty' void of the old impeller. The smaller pipe above the valley connects the Thermostat/Mixer to the accumulator, and from your video seems to flow from thermostat/mixer to the rear (as you say to prevent cold water hitting a hot engine) - the EWP always pulses off/on to prevent thermal shock while warming up (full on when T over 85*C).
So I now understand your comment - both pipes go the same way (from rear to front). My question is, I don't think I need the small pipe above the valley to feed 'hot' water into the mixer as the EWP pulsing/full does this now? If I block the small pipe then the engine should get more cooler water?
@@davidproud4039 The smaller over-valley pipe takes coolant from the heater matrix to the mixing chamber. Although it looks like it is connected to the accumulator it isn't (or it shouldn't be), in fact, on the E31 with the V12 the pipe avoids the accumulator altogether and goes straight to the mixing chamber. So, either the accumulator has been damaged or the pipe is being heated by conduction rather than any coolant flowing through it. You don't need it if you don't have a heater!
Thanks For another great video!
Timm, do you think many of the cooling system parts fail due to excessive pressure? I am debating changing the radiator cap on my 03 540i from a stock 2.0 bar to the 1.4 or 1.2 bar BMW radiator cap to reduce pressure, reduce failure of parts, and prolong their life. Have you heard of this modification?
Hello Alan, the cap will not make a jot of difference - unless the system is over-filled in which case it may reduce the system pressure. If the cooling system is filled correctly then the cap will have no effect on the system pressure as the pressure will be around 1 Bar or so. The real fix is to get rid of the temperature-mapped thermostat for an 85C or 95C fixed thermostat. See Bimmerforums - they have gone through this many times!
Thanks Timm, will definitely read more on it there. Cheers!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks Timm! I ordered the 88C 740d thermostat. It does not have the plug or heating element. I've read all weekend on Bimmerforums that a resistor must be used on the wiring harness to avoid the fault the DME will store. Do you know of a "plug-in" resistor that would safely work? I read the BMW 1000 ohm resistor (#13901734469) would work but I am unsure..... Thanks in advance.
I am confused by your schematic. On an N62 engine, there is a small diameter hose that runs from the upper part of the expansion tank to 2 points in the engine (it is a "Y" shaped hose). In your drawing you seem to show such a hose from the expansion tank but running to the Main Coolant Radiator which I don't think is the case. Incidentally, can that hose (in my description) be changed without draining the cooling system?
The 650i uses the same circuit as those featured in the video (M60, M62 and M70), you should see a long thin pipe on top of the radiator housing. In addition there is a Y pipe that bleeds the water pump.
Tim, I am having an issue with a 1997 E31. The temp indicator is always every so slightly passed the mid point. I mean you really have to concentrate to see it. I have had at least 2 occasions where it started to go up and then I guess aux fan kicked in. One time when it started to over heat I turned the car off and back on immediately and it was just fine ( slightly passed the half point ). It is very frustrating. Mind you I did some work on the heater valves but the problem was there even before that. Any idea what could be the issue. Oh and yes when I changed the fluid I did wait more than 5 minutes and things started bubbling out of the expnassion tank
It all depends when it started overheating - if the car was at idle then I would suspect the viscous-coupled fan
Great video , i'm no stranger to m60/62 engines however , looked at this after struggling to get my new (to me) 2001 740i to bleed and behave , heaters are only luke warm at operating temp , and when driving the temp slowly creeps up too high , when bringing the revs up a bit higher 2000+ it goes back to normal promptly , water pump and thermostat look newish (but unknown to me) , radiator is brand new and genuine , also replaced expansion tank and cap , and viscous coupling (which seems to work) , interesting point is that if I put the A/C on the aux fan brings the temp down a little too , (i'm running IBUS software on Headunit to display coolant temp on the IKE for easy monitoring) as the dash gauge is pretty numb , any ideas? i've always followed the correct bleeding method on my previous cars and had very little hassle , sods law that the weekend cruiser gives me hassle and not the track based car!
It all depends what you mean by overheating - if you are below 120C then you are probably OK. Anything over that and your cooling efficiency is poor. If the temperature goes above 120C when travelling at 70 MPH or so then you r coolant probably is not circulating correctly....
Hi mate. I am a big fan of yours. How can I contact you?
Thanks
I'm on Bimmerforums, both UK and US - always best to post up any problems on the relevant forum!
I changed thermostat to 75 c and lower hose gets warm at 82c than I changed thermostat to 68 c and still opens at 82 c why is doing this sir, you think mixing chamber is causing this ?
If you are measuring the coolant temperature via the MID then that temperature is the OUTPUT from the engine - the thermostat operates from the radiator outlet temperature and hence will be at a lower temperature. I would not go any lower that 85C for the M60/M62 as this will increase consumption and wear. All explained here: ruclips.net/video/XGIk8IXSGIE/видео.html
Who needs A Bentley manual when people like yourself are here.
Thanks
I'll read it for you!