I don't know how many people are smiling or laughing during watching you because this is very joyful watch, but I'm definitely one! I love the internet when I find real people with real activities!
A few days ago I sharpened a very old, very dull rip saw and was very happy with the results of my first every saw sharpening. Today, I used this video as reference to sharpen and convert another very old, very dull saw into a cross cut saw. While I didn't come your as well as the other one, it does function well and I am still happy with the results. Plus, now that the new tooth geometry is established, the next sharpening will come out better.
I have been involved with woodwork since a boy my father was a master carpenter and joiner and more ofter than not he worked away from home. He was a really hard taskmaster with a short fuse so it did pay to be atentive. Every weekend he use to come home bringing all his tools with him, this included a whole lot of different saws from brass backed panel saws to rip saws. He had a saw vice very much the same as the one you have other than the fact that this one stood on the floor. His rip saw was sharpened from two sides, in other words each alternate tooth was sharpened and the saw horse turned round and then the other teeth done. Please note that i said the saw horse was turned Not the saw turned round, i only made that mistake once, i think my ear is still ringing for that. There was also a degree upward on the cut as it increased the cutting ability of the saw. The whole thing wass about a four hour job as there were chisels plane blades including rebate planes and moulding planes that hah to be sharpened and also bits for brace and bit sets. Although his atitude towards instruction was more bent towards a clip along side the ear or worse, clearly it was nothing i ever forgot, and i wonder what he would do in todays world of electric tools, the nesrest thing to that was a Yankee pump action screwdriver he used a lot when hanging doors which took him about five minutes to do including cutting out the recesion for the strike plate and hinges, in thos days usually three hinges per door. It was a shame that he had such a short fuse, but he really was a craftman including carving work often seen in churches, something i found i was more edept to. At woodwork classes at school they never cottoned on to the fact that what took the rest of the class a couple of weeks to complete i did in one lesson, although i became an engineer i never forgot the carpentry .
I used to have a semi automatic filer from Belsaw that i bought in a yard sale years ago, it worked well, but parts are no longer available for it. I sharpen and set handsaws by hand, i did buy a used Foley Belsaw automatic filer and it works well, but if i only do one i do it by hand. Now when i do them for people i do them in bulk, like min. 2-4 or more the prices on hand saws are cheap these days, so unless it's mine i won't sharpen just one! This is a great post!
Thanks for being both detailed and concise. You hit all the details, discuss the alternatives, and then show the process. I think this and the rip saw sharpening video are the best RUclips videos on the subject.
Thanks much for getting back to me James. Can I ask you about a related topic. Do you know how to sharpen bandsaw blades? I'm trying to apply the same concepts as the rip/crosscut teeth sharpening but not sure how to approach this challenge. There are many RUclipss on this with varying techniques. Any suggestions, guidance? Gratefully, Dadla.
@@dadlaponizil3687 now I'm at topic there are a lot of different options. But the basic geometry still exists if you want to be a crosscut blade latisse are shaped like a knife where is if you want it to be a rip cut blade they're shaped like a chisel. I do not have a video on doing that as I do not have a bandsaw anymore. Sorry.
With this video I managed to get my head around the cross-cut saw sharpening process and finally make it work brilliantly for me in practice. For that I say Thank you very much Sir ! Subscribed.
I like to blacken the teeth with a marker first. Just a tip for old eyes, it helps. I think you have the rake angle description a bit confused in your explanation. 0 rake would be vertical (good on some rip patterns) on the cutting edge, and not the top of the file flat (which would be a 30 degree rake....which is very lax) and then the degrees of rake would be laid back from the toe of the saw. More rake is less aggressive. I heard once that a poorly sharpened saw still cuts better than a dull one....lol. A pretty true statement.
Fleem that’s a sick fleem gauge need to make one today. “Lil bit o fleem lil bit rake that’s my personality.” Ha Yin Yang Fleem Rake. That was very thorough thank you. Oss
Great simple explanation on sharpening a cross cut saw. I just bought that exact same saw tomorrow I'm going to try to sharpen it up and refinish the handle mine has a couple chips in it.
I watched part of a different one by you earlier today. I did it, and it feels like a fresh saw. I’ve not tested it yet. Just wanted to thank you for your time. I’ve just subscribed… I’m considering patreon because if I had to buy this kind of instruction, it would be expensive like at a school.
Ok, I’m ready to dive in. Really great tip on why wide set may be handy. I’m not so good at staying on line. While it could be the saw, I rather think it’s me... just new to locate a 6 sided file.
Hi James: I have just purchased a disston saw sharpening set guide and was wondering if you have seen or used one before ? Tried to add a photo of it but not able too.
I have used one in the past. I don't have a video showing that as I generally don't like to use guides. But it can definitely help you out getting a smoother cut until your hand gets used to it.
Oops I forgot do you have a video of how to pick the files? How course it is what kind to buy American made or such? Thank you and thank you for your videos.
No. Generally for saw files when you're learning I just say go by the cheap ones at the big box store. They're not going to last as long but sharpening per dollar they are the better deal. Once you get into it and you get better at sharpening then you can go try and find something that's a little nicer cut.
Definitely a fantastic video one the cross cut sharpening, Hope you will go over the saw set tool and all the numbers on it and how we can use one with out breaking a tooth off Again wonderful video as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The problem is every saw set has different numbers. The key to not breaking teeth is not to bend them too far. It takes just the smallest amount of movement. Almost none at all.
Thanks for another great video. Can you please help? I'm looking for the same or similar files (and gauge). I'm in New Zealand and can't find them on the Lee Valley site (the links don't work for me - maybe because I'm not in North America, or perhaps they've changed their website). And I don't seem to be able to find any saw files at our local hardware shops (Bunnings, Mitre10 or Hammer Hardware) let alone sets like this. I'd be grateful for any suggestions for quality saw files - preferably a set like shown here.
I picked up a bunch of saws at a flea market, and every one of them except one was a rip saw. Maybe they're just more common, I dunno. Too bad the coursest one was about 8tpi. It's fun ripping 2x6s with that, lemme tell you. Gotta find me a good 5tpi one someday.
I'm curious about why you focus on the tooth that is on the obtuse angle side of the file. If I got the geometry right, that is the tooth toward the heel of the saw, which means that you are controlling the trailing edge of the tooth. Since the saw cuts on the push stroke, wouldn't it be better to be paying attention to the leading tooth edges? Or did I just get turned around while watching the video?
correct but you are actually cutting n the front of one and the back of the other at the same time. it is six of one half a dozen of the other I just look at the one where I am going so i do not get confused and look at the wrong tooth. it is often difficult to keep track of teeth.
So, when you file sides of two teeth at the same stroke, how do you ensure, that you dont overfile the same tooth later, or some previous tooth? (When one side of the gully needs more sharpening than the other?)
If the teeth are uneven you push forward or backward and focus on the tooth that needs more work but if they were filed correctly the last time they should end up needing the same amount of work.
I'm a heal to toe man with no slope. Sharpen then set. I've only ever seen (own) a saw set called 'Eclipse'. I don't know if you have them over in the states.
What do you do if a tooth has a shiny spot, but the two teeth on either side don't have a shiny spot anymore? Something obviously went wrong somewhere, but what can be done about it?
in that case rather then pushing the file straight down I push it toward the shinny spot and just work on the front and back of that tooth without touching the tooth in front or in back of it.
Russell Atstupenas Oh I apologize if you have difficulty with modern text language. ROTFLMBO stands for "Rolling On The Floor Laughing My Butt Off" it means I found it quite funny.
if it is a curveing bend then you can bend it back. if it has a kink with a great amount of skill and time it can be fixed, but most of the time at that point the saw is trash.
Sharpening a larger TPI saw is not so intimidating. How about sharpening a Carcas saw or a Tenon saw with a larger TPI? (or even a Dovetail saw) Is it the same process? My eyes really have a hard time working on a 14 TPI saw. The file jig looks like a real great way to maintain consistent strokes with the file.
Awesome video. I pass hours learning here. How often do you sharp your saws? Im japanese saw user, but i want a saw to resharp and can enjoy a sharp saw when it gets dull and im scary of buy a 300$ japanese saw for the fragil that they are. So ill try sestern saws
I sharpen my saws when they need to be sharpened. And it depends on their use. My most commonly used saws generally get sharpen ed every other month or so but I have some saws that I only sharpen once a year or more.
@@GMAN420BC A 7" grinder is designed to rotate an abrasive disc (usually for HEAVY metal grinding or cutting) around 5K or 10K RPM's... It's a BEAST! A "flap disc" is basically a HEAVY grade disc composed of abrasive cloth "flaps" more or less stacked around the circle... SO... it's not hard for someone new to the idea of saw sharpening to consider the abrasive cloth flaps might fit into gullets and make the job just that much easier... but they don't really do that so well... What results is basically unleashing about two horsepower worth of torque crushing asphalt covered cloth into the teeth of the saw at every angle at once... It's usually not pretty... In about the first five seconds or so of "practical attempt"... the person trying this will realize he's removed about half the teeth of the saw completely, shredded the disc to nearly unusable, and if he's escaped relatively unscathed, he feels extremely lucky with his own personal health still intact... Just for the record, no... I did NOT actually participate in the carnage of finding this out myself. I was (however) on the sidelines of the famous last words "Hey fellers, check this out!" while someone else approached the idea... AND I've kind of decided on my own that power tools and sharpening are only mixed with extreme caution. If you really REALLY want a suggestion on a power tool to use for sharpening a saw... I might suggest you very carefully and with a GENTLE touch, consider a "Dremel" (or similar rotary utensil) equipped WITH variable speed control and a "Stylus" attachment... They make tiny sanding and grinding discs for those things, and with an abundance of practice you can actually manage to accomplish more help than harm with them. Variable Speed Control is ABSOLUTELY necessary in any sharpening, so you don't over-heat the metal. It's not that you'll exactly "ruin" the temper, but hot metal gets soft, and that promotes metal going away FASTER than you expect... Slow and patient will win this race... and gentle Gentle GENTLY!!! ;o)
JAMES long time no talk! So you have a plan for that saw vice? Check my channel I'm building a new house and a huge shop. Just getting back on due to some issues with the health but then was designing the shop and house. We need to get together sometime.
@@WoodByWright no I sold the house in Watertown. I am building a new house with a huge shop attached to the the 3 car but the shop is still separate and with it's own 200 amp service. Hopefully we will have occupancy in January.
I disagree.... there are lots of wrong ways that people do when filing a handsaw. Believe me... I've refiled many many saws that were without a doubt were done wrong.
Not always.... The first crosscut saw I ever sharpened ended up with sharp points, but it would not cut through a 2x4 without jumping out of the kerf and just tearing up the wood. Then I started reading some right ways to file a saw, not sharpen it, but file it. When filing a saw, it's more than just sharpening.
Thanks for the feedback. Almost all the videos on this channel now are just music and the sounds of the shop. I don't talk as much on this channel anymore. All of that has moved over the second channel where I actually teach how to do things. however for something like sharpening saws it's pretty much impossible to demonstrate it it's something you have to actually talk about to describe the intricacies of it.
Hi James! Why it is important to joint the teeth before sharpening? What exactly is the issue with having teeth at different height and not being in one plane?
If the teeth are different height is in only the tall ones will bite into the wood. Shorter ones won't actually cut anything. And most of the time due to the way they get filed you'll have more tall teeth on one side of the plate than the other and that will also cause it to go out of alignment. On top of that it can be harder to start as it tends to bounce more.
I don't know how many people are smiling or laughing during watching you because this is very joyful watch, but I'm definitely one! I love the internet when I find real people with real activities!
Thank you. That means a lot.
Good video. Much the way I have been sharpening saws for the last 58 years. Best I have watched
Thanks James. You go a long way to give people confidence to have a go at it.
thanks Robert. I hope more people take the plunge!
A few days ago I sharpened a very old, very dull rip saw and was very happy with the results of my first every saw sharpening. Today, I used this video as reference to sharpen and convert another very old, very dull saw into a cross cut saw. While I didn't come your as well as the other one, it does function well and I am still happy with the results. Plus, now that the new tooth geometry is established, the next sharpening will come out better.
Right on. the best thing about learning to sharpen is that even a poor job cuts better then it did before.
I have been involved with woodwork since a boy my father was a master carpenter and joiner and more ofter than not he worked away from home.
He was a really hard taskmaster with a short fuse so it did pay to be atentive.
Every weekend he use to come home bringing all his tools with him, this included a whole lot of different saws from brass backed panel saws to rip saws.
He had a saw vice very much the same as the one you have other than the fact that this one stood on the floor.
His rip saw was sharpened from two sides, in other words each alternate tooth was sharpened and the saw horse turned round and then the other teeth done.
Please note that i said the saw horse was turned Not the saw turned round, i only made that mistake once, i think my ear is still ringing for that.
There was also a degree upward on the cut as it increased the cutting ability of the saw.
The whole thing wass about a four hour job as there were chisels plane blades including rebate planes and moulding planes that hah to be sharpened and also bits for brace and bit sets.
Although his atitude towards instruction was more bent towards a clip along side the ear or worse, clearly it was nothing i ever forgot, and i wonder what he would do in todays world of electric tools, the nesrest thing to that was a Yankee pump action screwdriver he used a lot when hanging doors which took him about five minutes to do including cutting out the recesion for the strike plate and hinges, in thos days usually three hinges per door.
It was a shame that he had such a short fuse, but he really was a craftman including carving work often seen in churches, something i found i was more edept to.
At woodwork classes at school they never cottoned on to the fact that what took the rest of the class a couple of weeks to complete i did in one lesson, although i became an engineer i never forgot the carpentry .
Love the history.
Great story. Thank you. Lots of memories in there.
I used to have a semi automatic filer from Belsaw that i bought in a yard sale years ago, it worked well, but parts are no longer available for it. I sharpen and set handsaws by hand, i did buy a used Foley Belsaw automatic filer and it works well, but if i only do one i do it by hand. Now when i do them for people i do them in bulk, like min. 2-4 or more the prices on hand saws are cheap these days, so unless it's mine i won't sharpen just one! This is a great post!
This is an amazing tutorial, I was nervous to try this, and your instructions really boosted my confidence!
Glad I could help. Let me know if you have questions.
Thanks for being both detailed and concise. You hit all the details, discuss the alternatives, and then show the process. I think this and the rip saw sharpening video are the best RUclips videos on the subject.
Thanks. That means a lot. It is a fun balence to play with.
This was super informative and helpful. Thank you.
Most grateful to you Mr. Wright. You have given me just the overview I needed to dispel the mystery of my two types of saws. Thank you!
thanks My pleasure! that was one that bugged me back when I was getting started.
Thanks much for getting back to me James. Can I ask you about a related topic. Do you know how to sharpen bandsaw blades? I'm trying to apply the same concepts as the rip/crosscut teeth sharpening but not sure how to approach this challenge. There are many RUclipss on this with varying techniques. Any suggestions, guidance? Gratefully, Dadla.
@@dadlaponizil3687 now I'm at topic there are a lot of different options. But the basic geometry still exists if you want to be a crosscut blade latisse are shaped like a knife where is if you want it to be a rip cut blade they're shaped like a chisel. I do not have a video on doing that as I do not have a bandsaw anymore. Sorry.
Love your video the close shots and explanations are just outstanding.
great video , you make my day . i been 3 hours taken care an old hand saw . Came along amaising
Fantastic. That's what I like to hear.
With this video I managed to get my head around the cross-cut saw sharpening process and finally make it work brilliantly for me in practice.
For that I say Thank you very much Sir !
Subscribed.
Thanks Steve glad I can help. If you have any questions let me know
I like to blacken the teeth with a marker first. Just a tip for old eyes, it helps. I think you have the rake angle description a bit confused in your explanation. 0 rake would be vertical (good on some rip patterns) on the cutting edge, and not the top of the file flat (which would be a 30 degree rake....which is very lax) and then the degrees of rake would be laid back from the toe of the saw. More rake is less aggressive.
I heard once that a poorly sharpened saw still cuts better than a dull one....lol. A pretty true statement.
Thanks Jim. I use to blacken them too. It can really help.
Fleem that’s a sick fleem gauge need to make one today. “Lil bit o fleem lil bit rake that’s my personality.” Ha Yin Yang Fleem Rake. That was very thorough thank you. Oss
Great simple explanation on sharpening a cross cut saw. I just bought that exact same saw tomorrow I'm going to try to sharpen it up and refinish the handle mine has a couple chips in it.
Nice. I love seeing a saw come back to life.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing
Thank you for both vids! You've eased my worries about the wrong file, the wrong way, etc!
Thanks. A lot of people like to over think it. Have fun.
Outstanding video
I watched part of a different one by you earlier today. I did it, and it feels like a fresh saw. I’ve not tested it yet. Just wanted to thank you for your time. I’ve just subscribed… I’m considering patreon because if I had to buy this kind of instruction, it would be expensive like at a school.
Thanks man. I will keep them coming. Four videos every week
Another excellent video! Quick, simple and straightforward! Thanks again for sharing it with us! Keep it coming! Cheers!
My pleasure thanks.
Ok, I’m ready to dive in. Really great tip on why wide set may be handy. I’m not so good at staying on line. While it could be the saw, I rather think it’s me... just new to locate a 6 sided file.
Sweet man. to get started you can just get the cheap ones from the hardware store. they work fine just often do not last as long.
Love the vise James
LOL thanks man!
OMG have to save for reference, I watched this when I woke up and had to watch many times, man o man I feel old and brain dead
LOL man. there was a lot of fleem in there!
I think there is medicine for that.....
Great vid. Thanks for info.
“Polishing a turd”, I’m gonna use that ! Thanks again !
Lol. Thanks!
Looking for a split nut screwdrivers did you make yours or purchase it some where?
It's pretty easy to make them. But you can buy them from Blackburn Tool works or Rex Krueger now sells a keychain tool that has one on it.
@@WoodByWright thank you for the information,enjoy your videos
Thanks, James, that was fast...
thanks man. my pleasure
Great tutorial James, thanks for sharing it.
thanks BIll My Pleasure!
Valiosa lição, agradecemos sua presteza, paciência, dedicação e riqueza em cada detalhe.
obrigado isso significa muito.
Hi James: I have just purchased a disston saw sharpening set guide and was wondering if you have seen or used one before ?
Tried to add a photo of it but not able too.
Wondering if someone has a video on how to use it.
I have used one in the past. I don't have a video showing that as I generally don't like to use guides. But it can definitely help you out getting a smoother cut until your hand gets used to it.
Oops I forgot do you have a video of how to pick the files? How course it is what kind to buy American made or such? Thank you and thank you for your videos.
No. Generally for saw files when you're learning I just say go by the cheap ones at the big box store. They're not going to last as long but sharpening per dollar they are the better deal. Once you get into it and you get better at sharpening then you can go try and find something that's a little nicer cut.
No right or wrong way. But there is the.... Wright way....
LOL so true.
Great teaching video James! Thanks
thanks Tim. my pleasure!
Definitely a fantastic video one the cross cut sharpening,
Hope you will go over the saw set tool and all the numbers on it and how we can use one with out breaking a tooth off
Again wonderful video as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The problem is every saw set has different numbers. The key to not breaking teeth is not to bend them too far. It takes just the smallest amount of movement. Almost none at all.
Just found this video... what is the guide at the end of the file called and where can I get one? Thanks in advance...
Thank you James :) I've added a saw file holder to my 'things to make' list :D ॐ
thanks man. it is nice to have them all in one place.
I'm going to get Wright on this
Lol. Nice.
Excellent lesson, thanks!
thanks Paul. my pleasure
Love your videos love ur channel youre awesome keep it up
Thanks for another great video. Can you please help? I'm looking for the same or similar files (and gauge). I'm in New Zealand and can't find them on the Lee Valley site (the links don't work for me - maybe because I'm not in North America, or perhaps they've changed their website). And I don't seem to be able to find any saw files at our local hardware shops (Bunnings, Mitre10 or Hammer Hardware) let alone sets like this. I'd be grateful for any suggestions for quality saw files - preferably a set like shown here.
Here is an updated link. www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/files/110473-set-of-6-bahco-saw-sharpening-files-and-roll
Great video. I have one question though: i assume that the cutting edge of the teeth is set outwards. Am I right?
yes. setting in my book is a separate operation. I do it once every 3-4 sharpenings.
Thanks for the knowledge! 👍👊
my pleasure Fred. any time! or at least Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
Wood By Wright 👍😁
Nice! Can you believe I don't actually have a crosscut saw yet? Just a bunch of overworked rip saws 😀
I picked up a bunch of saws at a flea market, and every one of them except one was a rip saw. Maybe they're just more common, I dunno.
Too bad the coursest one was about 8tpi. It's fun ripping 2x6s with that, lemme tell you. Gotta find me a good 5tpi one someday.
Yup. Rip saws are more common. But you can easily change the teeth to be a cross cut.
Am looking for your web site is it Wright wood or I need your full name?
Woodbywright.com
Great video James. What saw is this? Thanks, Chuck.
Again James. Great educational video. Great explanation. Keep up the good work. :)
thanks man that menas a lot!
Great video! Can I ask where you purchased your bench broom I saw sitting on your table?
Actually I got that one from harbor freight. So in a few places I can find with a nice bristle wooden handle.
Remember folks, you can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter!
I'm curious about why you focus on the tooth that is on the obtuse angle side of the file. If I got the geometry right, that is the tooth toward the heel of the saw, which means that you are controlling the trailing edge of the tooth. Since the saw cuts on the push stroke, wouldn't it be better to be paying attention to the leading tooth edges? Or did I just get turned around while watching the video?
correct but you are actually cutting n the front of one and the back of the other at the same time. it is six of one half a dozen of the other I just look at the one where I am going so i do not get confused and look at the wrong tooth. it is often difficult to keep track of teeth.
Can't find that file guide
This one. www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/files/70465-veritas-saw-file-holder
So, when you file sides of two teeth at the same stroke, how do you ensure, that you dont overfile the same tooth later, or some previous tooth? (When one side of the gully needs more sharpening than the other?)
If the teeth are uneven you push forward or backward and focus on the tooth that needs more work but if they were filed correctly the last time they should end up needing the same amount of work.
where can I get some good quality saw set plyers? I don't like those on Amazon...
What's the time I find saw sets at mwtca meets. There's usually someone there with a bucket of them for $3-5 each. Check out www.handtoolfinder.com
Hey maybe you go over the hybrid (filled) saws ???
I mentioned them here. They are basically a cross cut but with just a little bit of fleam.
So a cross cut with less fleam ?
I'm a heal to toe man with no slope. Sharpen then set. I've only ever seen (own) a saw set called 'Eclipse'. I don't know if you have them over in the states.
Thanks. I have seen them but I do not own one.
What do you do if a tooth has a shiny spot, but the two teeth on either side don't have a shiny spot anymore? Something obviously went wrong somewhere, but what can be done about it?
in that case rather then pushing the file straight down I push it toward the shinny spot and just work on the front and back of that tooth without touching the tooth in front or in back of it.
Thanks James that was very helpful. Do you use a Stanley 42 or 42X? Can you explain the difference? Thanks in advance.
mine is a 42. I actually do not know the difference as I have never used a 42X. sorry.
You also keep the same depth of placement of the saw in the vice. Don't have to readjust the saw and try and keep it at the same height.
Noice!
I love not having to move the saw all the time. makes it so easy!
"How to Rip a Sharpen saw" ROTFLMBO. Best TYPO yet.
LOL thanks Thomas. I was happy with that one!
Thomas Russell are you 12? ROTFLMBO?Try adult English...
Welcome to the inside group. I missspell or make something off in that card every time. it is a fun game to play with the audience.
Russell Atstupenas
Oh I apologize if you have difficulty with modern text language.
ROTFLMBO stands for "Rolling On The Floor Laughing My Butt Off" it means I found it quite funny.
Russell Atstupenas
Besides, I am a 6th Grade math teacher. Being around 12 year olds all day tends to rub off.
What if the plate is slightly bent? Will that have a huge effect on cutting?
if it is a curveing bend then you can bend it back. if it has a kink with a great amount of skill and time it can be fixed, but most of the time at that point the saw is trash.
I got one for free, that looks like someone punched a nail in it, guess that means its trash :), might use it to make a scraper or something then :)
ya. you might be able to bend it back with a ball peen hammer and an anvil, but I would not keep my hopes up.
What about a panel saw?
same thing. Depending on who you ask this one was a panel saw.
o no! not the polished turd! You liking the Bahco files?
yes I am. I am interested to see how long they actually last compared tot he cheap ones.
👍👍👍
There might not be a right way to sharpen it but there is a wright way to do it ;)
yup. don't use an angle grinder with a flap disk.
Correction..... rip teeth don't actually cut like a chisel..... due to the rake angle, the teeth are actually scraping....
LOL very correct!
Sharpening a larger TPI saw is not so intimidating. How about sharpening a Carcas saw or a Tenon saw with a larger TPI? (or even a Dovetail saw) Is it the same process? My eyes really have a hard time working on a 14 TPI saw. The file jig looks like a real great way to maintain consistent strokes with the file.
yup it is the same thing all the way down to the small teeth. some people will use a magnifying mask to see them better.
ATTENTION; This is the Wright way not the Wong way.
Lol yup.
How to make Mexican salsa
Awesome video. I pass hours learning here.
How often do you sharp your saws?
Im japanese saw user, but i want a saw to resharp and can enjoy a sharp saw when it gets dull and im scary of buy a 300$ japanese saw for the fragil that they are. So ill try sestern saws
I sharpen my saws when they need to be sharpened. And it depends on their use. My most commonly used saws generally get sharpen ed every other month or so but I have some saws that I only sharpen once a year or more.
I tried to sharpen a saw with a flap disc on an 7” grinder. I messed it up.
LOL yup that would do it!
How could that be ? Explain .....
@@GMAN420BC A 7" grinder is designed to rotate an abrasive disc (usually for HEAVY metal grinding or cutting) around 5K or 10K RPM's... It's a BEAST!
A "flap disc" is basically a HEAVY grade disc composed of abrasive cloth "flaps" more or less stacked around the circle...
SO... it's not hard for someone new to the idea of saw sharpening to consider the abrasive cloth flaps might fit into gullets and make the job just that much easier... but they don't really do that so well...
What results is basically unleashing about two horsepower worth of torque crushing asphalt covered cloth into the teeth of the saw at every angle at once... It's usually not pretty... In about the first five seconds or so of "practical attempt"... the person trying this will realize he's removed about half the teeth of the saw completely, shredded the disc to nearly unusable, and if he's escaped relatively unscathed, he feels extremely lucky with his own personal health still intact...
Just for the record, no... I did NOT actually participate in the carnage of finding this out myself. I was (however) on the sidelines of the famous last words "Hey fellers, check this out!" while someone else approached the idea... AND I've kind of decided on my own that power tools and sharpening are only mixed with extreme caution.
If you really REALLY want a suggestion on a power tool to use for sharpening a saw... I might suggest you very carefully and with a GENTLE touch, consider a "Dremel" (or similar rotary utensil) equipped WITH variable speed control and a "Stylus" attachment... They make tiny sanding and grinding discs for those things, and with an abundance of practice you can actually manage to accomplish more help than harm with them.
Variable Speed Control is ABSOLUTELY necessary in any sharpening, so you don't over-heat the metal. It's not that you'll exactly "ruin" the temper, but hot metal gets soft, and that promotes metal going away FASTER than you expect... Slow and patient will win this race... and gentle Gentle GENTLY!!! ;o)
Comment down below
If it's Wright...It really cant be wrong.
Fleem ...
the best kind!
IM FIRST........oh no :( lol Continue the good work James
LOL almost!
My first attempt sharpen a cross-cut saw it turn to ripsaw tooth hehehe....
JAMES long time no talk! So you have a plan for that saw vice? Check my channel I'm building a new house and a huge shop. Just getting back on due to some issues with the health but then was designing the shop and house. We need to get together sometime.
Sweet man sounds like fun. You still in Watertown?
@@WoodByWright no I sold the house in Watertown. I am building a new house with a huge shop attached to the the 3 car but the shop is still separate and with it's own 200 amp service. Hopefully we will have occupancy in January.
I disagree.... there are lots of wrong ways that people do when filing a handsaw. Believe me... I've refiled many many saws that were without a doubt were done wrong.
But they still cut and probably better then they did .
Not always.... The first crosscut saw I ever sharpened ended up with sharp points, but it would not cut through a 2x4 without jumping out of the kerf and just tearing up the wood. Then I started reading some right ways to file a saw, not sharpen it, but file it. When filing a saw, it's more than just sharpening.
Technically correct, no doubt, but pedagogically weak delivery. Frequent use of pronouns -- "this..." -- flying by is the major failing.
Thanks for the feedback.
Talking too much Lessing Ur talking show the action more
Thanks for the feedback. Almost all the videos on this channel now are just music and the sounds of the shop. I don't talk as much on this channel anymore. All of that has moved over the second channel where I actually teach how to do things. however for something like sharpening saws it's pretty much impossible to demonstrate it it's something you have to actually talk about to describe the intricacies of it.
Talks too much. To the point of confusion.
thanks for the feed back, but most comets are that I do not explain enough.
Hi James! Why it is important to joint the teeth before sharpening? What exactly is the issue with having teeth at different height and not being in one plane?
If the teeth are different height is in only the tall ones will bite into the wood. Shorter ones won't actually cut anything. And most of the time due to the way they get filed you'll have more tall teeth on one side of the plate than the other and that will also cause it to go out of alignment. On top of that it can be harder to start as it tends to bounce more.
@@WoodByWright Thanks, quite a valuable insight!