To the folks watching this that are rather new to sewing or looking into it, trust this guy. Also, once you learn to run a basic sewing machine for MYOG, you will start to find all sorts of things that are handy now that you can sew. No jeans in your size at the thrift store, but a nice pair that are too long? Buy them and hem them down to size. Dog ripped his dog bed? Patch rather than replace. Worked hard on losing a bit of weight, proud of your progress, but that dress shirt (or dress) you wear to the office is baggy now? There are often easy ways to tailor down the sides. The sewing machine is a wonderfully precise power tool that just broadens what you can do around the house. And who doesn't love another power tool?
I got this exact machine at an estate sale with the table, cams, feet, plug/knee pedal, original bobbins/storage, and manuals for $98. I just bought the first one I found because I had gotten obsessed with the idea and I might have over paid but it's a beast. I mostly make clothes but I also hike so it's interesting to find I could try to make that stuff too.
I worked at Sears for over a decade, beginning in 1976. While Sears didn't manufacture their own products, they employed engineers to write specifications to maintain quality. With their "Satisfaction Guaranteed" slogan, they didn't want their name placed on junk.
I have a Kenmore washer, a Sears dryer and a Kenmore sewing machine. They are all excellent machines, and I will keep getting them fixed until I leave the planet, lol!.
Jason, thanks! This video prompted me to follow-up with my wife on her old sewing machine hiding in the attic. “I think it’s a Kenmore” she said. Two hours later I’m looking at a minty 158.19410 with all the goodies. Feels like it needs a cleaning and lub but been needing a free arm machine that the feed dogs can be dropped on to do some darning and BINGO! Once again, you’re the man, of all trades, of course🥂😎
The 41 was the apex of Kenmore machines. All of the models in their lineups were virtually the same machines, often a feature added here, a bonus set of goodies added there. The 1940, 1941, 1946, 1931 are all the same machine under their skins. The 40 looks different, but the only differences are the push/pull clutch for the bobbin winder (hand-wheels are different), a different size of buttonhole attachment screw receptacle, and the dial vs stitch selector window between both machines. Other than that; the machines are mechanically identical. The 1946 has a built in one step buttonhole stitch while the 1931 has removable cam capability, and came with (sometimes) the "Tower of Power". Underneath the skin, these machines are all sisters, with only minor additions/deletions with their features. It's interesting to note that many of the 1941s were built with a plastic bottom instead of aluminum, while the 1940s were built with all-aluminum bottoms on them. I'm guessing Sears wanted to claw back some of the manufacturing expense by giving the higher-tiered machine the less expensive bottom to rein in the retail price a bit while the less expensive 1940 lacked the extras, so they didn't feel it needed the moulded plastic base and left the metal base as part of it's body. Be aware that the 41s motor has a capacitor in it that is used to regulate the startup speed. While these caps rarely ever fail, if the machine starts to over speed when you start to sew, simply replacing that capacitor will fix the issue. It's a ceramic cap, so I highly doubt that'll ever be an issue (the 40, 46 and 31, same deal. You've got one fine machine there, Scott. It'll do better needle penetration than that 1752 due to its dual pulley reduction setup. What the 1752 does better are things like the deco stitchwork with the cams. And...it's also made completely out of steel. The 41 is all aluminum bodied, save for the rear panel, and some of the machines with the plastic base. It also is less power by .2 amps. Doesn't matter though. The dual pulley setup actually has stronger (and slower) needle to stitch ratio, which is where these Bernina "inspired" Kenmore machines really shine.
@@shopwornbear1171 Bear, this is great info! I fiddle with electronics so the capacitor info especially will be helpful. And it’s good to know the machine is worth some effort. I’m using a basic LS-1 on pack making and modification, but missing a zigzag for bartacking / if I can reliably fill that gap and a few others with the Kenmore, life is good! Thanks again!
Let me add to this for you, Jason, is it? From the mid 1950's, when Kenmore stopped having their machines manufactured by White, they had the majority of their machines built for them by Maruzen. Soryu also built some of their machines, and you could also buy German built Gritzner-Kayser built machines (bought out by Pfaff). During the late 1950's, Kenmore began a limited relationship (as did White) with Happy Japan. That continued into the early 60's. The model numbers during the 1950's were 117 (White), 148 (Soryu) and 158 (Maruzen). There was also the 120 (Chrysler), 516 (Gritzner-Kayser). In the Canadian markets, C877 (Happy Japan), and during the 1960's the 385 (Janome) which also bled into the mid 1980's when Janome manufactured all of the Kenmore rebranded hybrid machines until the early 2000's. Most of the machines built were Maruzen with the 158 designation. Kenmore built its reputation on solid, dependable and very strong machines. By the late 1960's, Kenmore machines became the queens of knit fabric with their reverse stitch setups. This enabled the machines to handle that awful polyester everyone wore back then. The machines ranged form 1.0 amp to 1.3 amp machines. They all had the dual pulley system "borrowed" from Bernina, as well as three foot and needle configurations (needle positions were not adjustable). They had left homing Super High Shank feet, low shank center homing and Super High Shank center homing (to my knowledge, I might stand corrected). The Kenmore machines, like Bernina, were able to use the power from the motor, slow it down via the dual pulley system, and add that reduction wheel power into the needle penetration as extra torque. The Kenmore machines also came with extra lift under the presser foot for thicker loads, and boasted the nicest stitch I've ever seen on any mechanical machine, the end! You simply adjust the foot pressure, set your tension and away you go! The downside to a Kennie is the lack of three needle positions, a restrictive 4mm zig zag width and a propensity to "spin and snap" modern wound threads when sewing (a couple of featherweight parts known as spool springs fixes this issue, as does the spool stand like you're using). There is also the threading of a Kenmore machine. It can be tricky to thread them right. If they're not done precisely the way they're supposed to be threaded, it can result in some very frustrating sewing, as these machines are not forgiving when it comes to one part of the threading being off in any way. On the positive side: All of the Super High Shank machines can be outfitted with a low shank adapter, so modern presser feet can be fitted to the machine via snap on feet. The Kennies all are very strong sewers, are the queens of the stretch stitch (knits are what this machine does better than any other machine of this vintage), can sew through leather and duck cloth without breaking a sweat, are so well balanced they can virtually stitch anything you put under the presser foot with minimal hand input to get the seam stitched. By 1975, Kenmore started building some machines in Taiwan. The plastic cam stacks were first introduced to the line on their budget machines. By 1979, all of their machines, save for a couple of older models were using plastic camstacks and gears. Anything built from 1980 and beyond had plastic nylon gears, and those gears do not age well. They also used a special zinc infused type of pot metal to cheapen the cost of manufacture. These parts, if torqued on are known to either split in two or shatter. Anything Kenmore built after 1984 was strictly built by Janome. Maruzen and Soryu were by then completely out of the picture. So, Kenmore sewing machines built from the mid 1950's (save for the Chrysler built "bullet" style machines that were chain driven and had a high failure rate with nylon bushings that could swell and crack if exposed to oil), to the mid to late 1970's. All of them were steel and iron composite pot metals. All of the steel parts, save for the drive shafts were japanned for corrosion resistance as well as structural durability. They sported the most reliable motors ever built, strong, quiet and well mannered. When Kenmore got into the reduction pulley phase of machine offerings, these machines went from strong sewing machines to really well balanced stitch sewing machines. No matter how thick the load (within limits, obviously), the stitch quality never faltered. The gears are solid steel, as are the cams, the linkages, etc. On the 1970's machines, you'll find durable plastic hand wheels built into most of the model lineups as well as a rear plastic belt cover. In terms of the best of the basic Kenmore machines, I'll be surprised if anyone didn't recommend the 158.1941. It was the apex of the Kenmore all-metal lineup. It sported 12 stitches (6 regular style straight and zig zag/6 "modifier" reverse stretch stitches), simple to control dials, push/pull handwheel clutch for bobbin winding, was available in super high shank, left and center homing, and low shank center homing models, had a removable flatbed that converted to free arm and a 1.0 amp motor. The other models with similar pedigree are the 158.1940 (missing the push/pull clutch handwheel and the stitch selector window), 158.1931 (Identical to the 1941 except for the addition of cam disc capability for 30 decorative cams that could give your machine a lot more sewing options), 158.1946 (this was very much like the 1940 but had an automatic buttonholer stitch selection. All of these machines were only 4mm width maximum zig zag width, needle position was fixed, not adjustable, and they all suffered from spin and snap issues with modern twisted winding thread spools (again, easily fixed) They suffer from the same things any older machine suffers from; varnished oil and dried grease. A frozen machine is not a broken machine. It just needs to be freed up via a lot of cleaning, re-lubing and re-greasing. These machines rarely ever go out of adjustment, and are strong, dependable and very forgiving sewing machines. Other models of note are the 158.1700/1800 series machines, ANY of the Gritzner-Kayser built machines (516 models of the late 1950's to early 1960's), ALL of the C877 Happy Japan built machines (they also built White machines for the Canadian markets as well, as well as some of the 1960's Janome built Kenmore machines). There are 117 series models from the 1950's and the 120 series built by Chrysler chain drive models (I refer to this model as the "Buzz saw"...very noisy machine, but incredibly strong). Let's say a beginner wants a great machine. Should they happen by a 1940, 1941, or even a 1251-1252, built in 1975 in Taiwan, I'd highly recommend picking one up. They all have the dual pulley system, 1.0 amp motor, the reverse stitch mechanism and all of them have superb sewing habits. Learning to thread these machines as well as equipping the spool spindles with the featherweight springs to stop the thread snapping issue are the most difficult part of ownership. If they own one of these beauties, they're going to really have a great sewing experience. Best part (aside from the 1251/1252 which both have a plastic non-load bearing camstack) is that these machines are heritage quality. That means they're made to outlast you or me. The machine you have in this video is an excellent sewing machine (I envy you, truly envy you, wish I had one of those). It is rock solid, and with proper maintenance will last you forever while giving you such a deep quality stitch that you'll learn to appreciate how well engineered this machine is.
Thanks for the shout outs. Glad you found a use of the stickers 😂 I learned to sew on a handed down Kenmore made by Janome. It’s a computerized domestic that my mom sewed on for years. It’s not in the class of that all metal vintage. That’s a great looking machine you have there and the foot lift is quite impressive as is that presser foot pressure adjustment.
Just picked up one today from FB marketplace. Guy wanted 100 for it. I told him it was overpriced and that standard would be 50 at the most. It came with table and chair, cams and buttonhole so I gave him 70. He would have gone down more but I am fine with paying what I consider to be a fair price. The table and chair are in excellent condition. The machine has some paint chips but otherwise pristine. It just needed oiling and a good wipedown as the prior owner was clearly a smoker. It is for my mom and I think she will be happy. I had purchased the 1802 on a whim and it is in amazing condition BUT the stitch length won't work. It is stuck and I cannot get it to work. And trying to force it, I broke a piece of the knob. Totally bummed. This 1752 makes up for it. Still holding out hope I can fix the stitch length on the 1802 though. It looks like a brand new machine.
I have just been gifted a Kenmore 158 840 that was build in West Germany by a friend who has given up on sewing. It looks like it's done a bit of work but in good condition. Has the manual and lots of feet and accessories. My old computerised Janome keeps breaking down after 25 years of use so I'm very pleased to have the Kenmore. It goes nicely without much tweaking. Appreciate your honest reviews :)
Please note on these Kenmore machines, not all of them will use the "new" (Chinese) bobbins. They are all class 15 but I have three TOL Kenmore machines and they only sew well with the vintage Kenmore seven hole bobbins. Just an FYI to whoever is considering these Kenmores. They are top notch machines for sure. You cannot go wrong with the 158. series.
I have a 158.1914 and a 158.1940. Both of these machines work perfectly with both metal and plastic bobbins. I'm positive you're correct, but a model number would help.
I have an early 1960 something Kenmore that I adore. It makes the best button holes for one, and I have all the cams, so I can sew all sorts of stitch patterns. It is solid steel, and a workhorse. I can sew the finest silk, and also some pretty dense fabrics, too. It does everything a modern computerized machine does, but it is all manual...and I am OK with that...I like a manual transmission in my car, too, lol. Just a throw back. All my appliances are old, but they were made very well, and it is a lot cheaper to have them repaired than to buy the "affordable" machines out there that are mostly made in China these days. I also have a 1989 Elna Jubilee that is now my fine sewing machine, but it will also quilt very well. I prefer my Kenmore overall though because it is a class 15 bobbin, and I think that they are the most reliable and certainly the easiest on to adjust the bobbin tension.
I'm with you - I collect vintage "Kennies", they are wonderful, solid, dependable and highly functional. They were well-designed and made to exacting standards. You can't buy that sort of quality today.
I picked up a 'wheel' presser foot to do 'walking foot' tasks. It's a vertical wheel that leans away from the needle, not the low hotdog roller style foot.
Another great video Jason. I have gotten my 158.095 up and going and it’s great. ($15 from Goodwill). They are fast! I set mine up with a corded lamp dimmer so I can dial back the speed, seems to work well so far.
We have the same favortie machines but for travel I need to keep my Kenny weight. 158.1040 it has an interesting history from a design stand point. I've done some heavy quilting on it. Good info again!
@thejasonofalltrades if you pop that presser foot control up, and rotate it, are there not numbers on the shaft? Both of my Kenmore have a scale on there stamped on 1 side. But you said you like doing it by feel. Hopefully that won't ruin it for you if yours has the markings as well ;-)
Thank you for sharing its very interesting I love sewing machines and this one it's very Interesting,,I will like to see if there some people out there interesting in the product I make I live in Texas...thank you for your time...
I have a Maruzen-made Kenmore model 90 in a beautiful mid-century cabinet. Purchased for $60. Works beautifully for MYOG. I’ve made backpacks out of X-Pac VX07. The final assembly has some sections of 6 layers of sailcloth and one or two layers of webbing. Those sections required a fair amount of manual handwheeling, but it crushed everything else, including bar tacks through multiple layers.
Maruzen is Art. That’s what they do with engineering. Kenmore has simple numbers, and the codes that tell us stuff. The first three relate to the contractor who built it. The others are model/series numbers.
Fascinating video, thank you. I see from that domestic zigzag machine scorecard you linked that the Necchi BU came out on top. I recently scored one for $20 and, after adjusting the needle height (God bless online service manuals!) and a way too loose bobbin case, I’m staggered at how good the machine is. Definitely worthwhile keeping an eye out for one in your neck of the woods. Although it’s worth noting that it doesn’t marry perfectly with a Singer-friendly table.
Wow, Roddy, that's a GREAT find! I've been hunting for Necchi BU for some time, just can't seem to find the right one at the right price in the right place at the right time lol! Sounds like I need to keep looking, though!
@@thejasonofalltrades I had a roadside trash day find of a Necchi with a frozen up zig-zag (time+neglect) that I got running and where I had heard all the 'ooh-la-la!' comments about how nice Necchi was ... I was unimpressed with this machine. Granted there are bad Singer examples out there but I wouldn't put Necchi at the top of my experience list.
A channel called GoldStarTools seems to have a connection with Consew. See if they could offer a version of the Thompson clones with a foot that will raise higher then 1/4". That's the problem I run into the most. Dealing with bulky materials or layers that stack up.
The Kenmore Dragon... lol... how many housewives from middle America in the middle of last century would have been wanting that particular model...? I would imagine that for the table, there would have been an 'arm' on the side that swung out and supported the extension leaf... just relying on the hinges to hold the alignment over time would have been short-sighted... - might have to put in a bit of packing to hold the gap... grab some laminex samples at the hardware store - they are 1.2mm thick, and don't crush... so you can build the spacer up in layers...
Your table should have a front panel door behind that decorative handle with two knife-hinges and often a plastic tray/shelf behind it. Open that door and swing it around out of the way where it becomes the support for the opened top extension. Similar to how this (much different style) table performs the same support function ruclips.net/user/shortsrBQ2Gxa8xT8 If that handle is not a door then get a 'swing out' or 'folding' shelf bracket to mount under that lid, or even just a couple of smaller simple hinges and a block of wood to swing out when support is needed and fold back/down when not in use.
Thank you for making one of the most helpful videos I’ve watched on RUclips 💚🩵💙 I recently purchased this machine at my local Habitat for Humanity Restore and had it detailed and tuned up -♥️🐈it purrs sweeter than my 🐈 🐈⬛🐈⬛🐈❤ I LOVE IT❤ It’s the best spontaneous purchase I’ve ever made ! Question: I’d never heard of adjusting the amount of pressure of a pressure foot…What is the purpose of doing that? Thanks again for adding some sparkle to my day 💙🐈🐈🐈🐈✨💖✨✨✨✨ NEXT UP: searching your channel for a BERNINA RECORD 730 review 💚🩵💙🩵🩵🧡🧡✨
Hi! Thanks so much! You may have already figured out I don't have a 730 review, but I do have a 930 video up :) Adjusting foot pressure is something I rarely do, but the purpose is to apply the appropriate amount of pressure for a given fabric to feed properly. I believe (very generally speaking) you increase the pressure on thinner fabrics and decrease on thicker, but there are other variables to factor. I sewed for many years without knowing it was even a thing, to be honest. Thanks for watching and commenting, and enjoy your Kenmore!
Hey John! To answer that question accurately, I would have to have made a flat cap lol. This machine is about as tough and capable as vintage machines get, and if you're sewing any thing reasonable in terms of fabric weight and layers, it should be able to sew anything any other non-walking-foot machine can. I'm not sure if, or to what extent, one has to sew through the bill of a flat cap when constructing one, that would be the only part I'd be concerned about. But I truly have never tried it, so take what I say with a grain of salt!
I bought an early 70s Kenmore from the Goodwill. Where do you find information on who manufactured it? My bobbin winder is a bit testy so I bought a cheap plastic winder, and I have a bunch of cams for it. The super high shank is challenging, though, for finding feet. I’d love a walking foot, but they’re pretty hard to find or expensive.
local antique shop has a 1752 sitting on the floor with a sewing cabinet and several feet, runs and sews great. Apparently the one they have is cast in gold as they are asking $225 for it. I'll stick with my free Singer 223
Helloo I have a sewing Shop and I got 10 sewing machines I got 5 singer and 5 Yuki's i been sewing for 20 year I sew heavy material for military like holters belts showlder bags...and many moore ..
Does the front of the cabinet open? If not ,how about the left side wall under the flap when its open? Also sometimes there is a metal arm that comes out towards the back, at the top, on the left side that is a support for the flap. Here os also a stupid question, dod you look onside of the vabinet where the machine folds down to see if there is a foot pedal svrewed to the inner wall with a knee lever attached?
Hi! I have other vintage tables with all of the options you suggest, but none of those apply here. And yes, I checked for a knee-lever operated pedal first, but good thinking!
Your sewing machine is good to make the buttons holes and to do the over lack for the edge of the material, I fix my own machines all my sewing machines are for heavy material I got 2 walking foot's
Sewing Parts Online has a pretty good selection, I would try there - www.sewingpartsonline.com (no affiliation, just had good experiences with them so far!)
Thank you for showing this video. You are not alone being confused by the Kenmore type numbers. I like to point out, that some of the Kenmores were made with an internal speed reducer. These machines should be significantly better for heavier work, due to the higher gear ratio to the motor. This video show an example of such a machine: ruclips.net/video/J4wvft-onYI/видео.html
@@thejasonofalltrades Yes an no. No, the Ultrafeed uses timing belts, and they are more modern belts with less power loss. Yes, they both utilize two belts to provide higher gear ratio from motor to machine.
@@thejasonofalltrades I have seen argued, that more European brands on the US market such as Bernina, Elna and Husqvarna Viking all had two belts in the drive, so the machines got better low speed control and higher needle punching force. Therefore Sears started to specify two belts on the Kenmores as well in order to regain some market share.
I have a Janome 532 and wanna do canvas and lightweight leather. It’s very similar to this machine. Do you think it’ll do the deal? The Facebook Gurus swear it’s a “quick death” to do that work on the machine. It’s a 1962 Model
Hi! I am not familiar with that particular machine (old Janomes are highly regarded, though), but based on my experience with other vintage machines, here's my opinion. First, whether it's a "quick death to do that work on that machine" really depends on what you mean by "work." You mention wanting to sew canvas and lightweight leather; if you're talking about sewing a few projects with those materials, making realistic efforts to keep the layer counts under control and otherwise not overtaxing the machine, you should definitely be able to sew those materials with that machine. However, if you're opening a shop making boat covers and leather bags, this is probably not the machine to do that with. If that machine has any plastic gears (it might or might not in that vintage), that would be the biggest concern for breakage. If you try to sew through something too thick, you're more likely to break a needle than anything, I think. The motor is likely going to prevent you from sewing through anything too thick, and you can carefully hand wheel through the thicker stuff when the motor can't keep up. (Don't force it, though; a little effort is fine, but if it isn't going through, you need reassess your project, not break something.) Where I get concerned is when people connect a machine like yours to an industrial 1/3 or 1/2 horsepower motor; that can certainly reveal the weaknesses inherent in a machine! Get a selection of leather needles, and universal needles for whatever canvas you intend to use, start easy with a couple of layers, and add thickness/complexity until the machine can't easily sew through it. If your goals are simple, smaller objects (wallets, zip pouches, etc) you should be totally fine. Larger and more complex projects will be more difficult, and if you're planning to do a LOT of that, a walking-foot machine (either portable or industrial) is probably in your future. I hope that helps! Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades super appreciate your help and guidance!! Saw you got back to me on the HD Singer too!! I’m literally thinking MAX layer is (2) 2/3oz wickett and Craig bridle Leather and (2) 8.5oz waxed canvas. Nothing insanely heavy like 16 layers of denim lol
Do you know how the kenmore 158.650 would stack up against this thing? I’m looking to do similar projects to yours and would like straight and zig zag.
Hi! I unfortunately have no experience with any other Kenmore machines of this vintage. I hear great things about them, but their numbering convention makes it a challenge for me to remember which models people have mentioned to me over the years. That said, my hunch is all vintage Kenmore machines should be quite good. I've used a ton of vintage sewing machines at this point, and I can't think of any that were absolutely useless; some have more power, better feeding, etc., but largely it comes down to personal preference. If you have a 158.650 or are considering one, I'd just go for it!
Hi Richard, With the usual caveats that a walking-foot machine will feed better (therefore maintaining a consistent stitch length more easily, possibly putting less wear on the thread as you're sewing), I think this machine should be able to handle a job like that just fine. You'll want to consider the strength of the seam, which is directly related to the thread you are using. I think this machine would handle V92 just fine (I haven't personally tried it on this machine, but my Singer 237 runs it, and this machine is at least as capable I believe). The following is an example; the source is a Canadian Aviation Life Support Equipment Sewing Procedures and Equipment document I was given some time ago, and it's not something I can easily share. You may be able to find a similar source to confirm the information. According to this document, you calculate the strength of a sewn seam as follows: breaking strength of thread x stitcher per inch V92 bonded nylon has an average breaking strength of 15 pounds (The Thread Exchange), so with a stitch length of 6 stitches per inch, that yields a seam strength of 90 pounds per inch. V69 bonded nylon has an average breaking strength of 11 pounds (The Thread Exchange), so with a stitch length of 6 stitches per inch, that yields a seam strength of 66 pounds per inch. Using this methodology, you can come up with a plan for how many stitches per inch you need to get the right amount of strength given how much room you have for the seam. I think in climbing circles, a factor of 3 (make it 3 times stronger than it needs to be) is generally preferred, but don't trust me on that. I've watched a few videos of folks making hunting saddles, and many of the ones I saw used a commercially-produced rock climbing harness as a back-up. Probably not a bad idea. The danger with DIY stuff for things that your life depends on is that they often will work great right up until the moment they don't, so exercise extreme caution! I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
To the folks watching this that are rather new to sewing or looking into it, trust this guy. Also, once you learn to run a basic sewing machine for MYOG, you will start to find all sorts of things that are handy now that you can sew. No jeans in your size at the thrift store, but a nice pair that are too long? Buy them and hem them down to size. Dog ripped his dog bed? Patch rather than replace. Worked hard on losing a bit of weight, proud of your progress, but that dress shirt (or dress) you wear to the office is baggy now? There are often easy ways to tailor down the sides. The sewing machine is a wonderfully precise power tool that just broadens what you can do around the house. And who doesn't love another power tool?
I got this exact machine at an estate sale with the table, cams, feet, plug/knee pedal, original bobbins/storage, and manuals for $98. I just bought the first one I found because I had gotten obsessed with the idea and I might have over paid but it's a beast. I mostly make clothes but I also hike so it's interesting to find I could try to make that stuff too.
I have a Kenmore 1652 model. It's with all accessories and user's manual. Pretty good in working. I fixed my husband's jeans pants with it.
I worked at Sears for over a decade, beginning in 1976. While Sears didn't manufacture their own products, they employed engineers to write specifications to maintain quality. With their "Satisfaction Guaranteed" slogan, they didn't want their name placed on junk.
I have a Kenmore washer, a Sears dryer and a Kenmore sewing machine. They are all excellent machines, and I will keep getting them fixed until I leave the planet, lol!.
Jason, thanks! This video prompted me to follow-up with my wife on her old sewing machine hiding in the attic. “I think it’s a Kenmore” she said. Two hours later I’m looking at a minty 158.19410 with all the goodies. Feels like it needs a cleaning and lub but been needing a free arm machine that the feed dogs can be dropped on to do some darning and BINGO! Once again, you’re the man, of all trades, of course🥂😎
That particular model is highly prized by collectors - it's a magnificent machine!!!
The 41 was the apex of Kenmore machines. All of the models in their lineups were virtually the same machines, often a feature added here, a bonus set of goodies added there. The 1940, 1941, 1946, 1931 are all the same machine under their skins. The 40 looks different, but the only differences are the push/pull clutch for the bobbin winder (hand-wheels are different), a different size of buttonhole attachment screw receptacle, and the dial vs stitch selector window between both machines. Other than that; the machines are mechanically identical. The 1946 has a built in one step buttonhole stitch while the 1931 has removable cam capability, and came with (sometimes) the "Tower of Power". Underneath the skin, these machines are all sisters, with only minor additions/deletions with their features. It's interesting to note that many of the 1941s were built with a plastic bottom instead of aluminum, while the 1940s were built with all-aluminum bottoms on them. I'm guessing Sears wanted to claw back some of the manufacturing expense by giving the higher-tiered machine the less expensive bottom to rein in the retail price a bit while the less expensive 1940 lacked the extras, so they didn't feel it needed the moulded plastic base and left the metal base as part of it's body. Be aware that the 41s motor has a capacitor in it that is used to regulate the startup speed. While these caps rarely ever fail, if the machine starts to over speed when you start to sew, simply replacing that capacitor will fix the issue. It's a ceramic cap, so I highly doubt that'll ever be an issue (the 40, 46 and 31, same deal. You've got one fine machine there, Scott. It'll do better needle penetration than that 1752 due to its dual pulley reduction setup. What the 1752 does better are things like the deco stitchwork with the cams. And...it's also made completely out of steel. The 41 is all aluminum bodied, save for the rear panel, and some of the machines with the plastic base. It also is less power by .2 amps. Doesn't matter though. The dual pulley setup actually has stronger (and slower) needle to stitch ratio, which is where these Bernina "inspired" Kenmore machines really shine.
@@shopwornbear1171 Bear, this is great info! I fiddle with electronics so the capacitor info especially will be helpful. And it’s good to know the machine is worth some effort. I’m using a basic LS-1 on pack making and modification, but missing a zigzag for bartacking / if I can reliably fill that gap and a few others with the Kenmore, life is good! Thanks again!
Let me add to this for you, Jason, is it? From the mid 1950's, when Kenmore stopped having their machines manufactured by White, they had the majority of their machines built for them by Maruzen. Soryu also built some of their machines, and you could also buy German built Gritzner-Kayser built machines (bought out by Pfaff).
During the late 1950's, Kenmore began a limited relationship (as did White) with Happy Japan. That continued into the early 60's. The model numbers during the 1950's were 117 (White), 148 (Soryu) and 158 (Maruzen). There was also the 120 (Chrysler), 516 (Gritzner-Kayser). In the Canadian markets, C877 (Happy Japan), and during the 1960's the 385 (Janome) which also bled into the mid 1980's when Janome manufactured all of the Kenmore rebranded hybrid machines until the early 2000's. Most of the machines built were Maruzen with the 158 designation. Kenmore built its reputation on solid, dependable and very strong machines.
By the late 1960's, Kenmore machines became the queens of knit fabric with their reverse stitch setups. This enabled the machines to handle that awful polyester everyone wore back then. The machines ranged form 1.0 amp to 1.3 amp machines. They all had the dual pulley system "borrowed" from Bernina, as well as three foot and needle configurations (needle positions were not adjustable). They had left homing Super High Shank feet, low shank center homing and Super High Shank center homing (to my knowledge, I might stand corrected).
The Kenmore machines, like Bernina, were able to use the power from the motor, slow it down via the dual pulley system, and add that reduction wheel power into the needle penetration as extra torque. The Kenmore machines also came with extra lift under the presser foot for thicker loads, and boasted the nicest stitch I've ever seen on any mechanical machine, the end! You simply adjust the foot pressure, set your tension and away you go!
The downside to a Kennie is the lack of three needle positions, a restrictive 4mm zig zag width and a propensity to "spin and snap" modern wound threads when sewing (a couple of featherweight parts known as spool springs fixes this issue, as does the spool stand like you're using). There is also the threading of a Kenmore machine. It can be tricky to thread them right. If they're not done precisely the way they're supposed to be threaded, it can result in some very frustrating sewing, as these machines are not forgiving when it comes to one part of the threading being off in any way.
On the positive side: All of the Super High Shank machines can be outfitted with a low shank adapter, so modern presser feet can be fitted to the machine via snap on feet. The Kennies all are very strong sewers, are the queens of the stretch stitch (knits are what this machine does better than any other machine of this vintage), can sew through leather and duck cloth without breaking a sweat, are so well balanced they can virtually stitch anything you put under the presser foot with minimal hand input to get the seam stitched.
By 1975, Kenmore started building some machines in Taiwan. The plastic cam stacks were first introduced to the line on their budget machines. By 1979, all of their machines, save for a couple of older models were using plastic camstacks and gears. Anything built from 1980 and beyond had plastic nylon gears, and those gears do not age well. They also used a special zinc infused type of pot metal to cheapen the cost of manufacture. These parts, if torqued on are known to either split in two or shatter. Anything Kenmore built after 1984 was strictly built by Janome. Maruzen and Soryu were by then completely out of the picture.
So, Kenmore sewing machines built from the mid 1950's (save for the Chrysler built "bullet" style machines that were chain driven and had a high failure rate with nylon bushings that could swell and crack if exposed to oil), to the mid to late 1970's. All of them were steel and iron composite pot metals. All of the steel parts, save for the drive shafts were japanned for corrosion resistance as well as structural durability.
They sported the most reliable motors ever built, strong, quiet and well mannered. When Kenmore got into the reduction pulley phase of machine offerings, these machines went from strong sewing machines to really well balanced stitch sewing machines. No matter how thick the load (within limits, obviously), the stitch quality never faltered. The gears are solid steel, as are the cams, the linkages, etc.
On the 1970's machines, you'll find durable plastic hand wheels built into most of the model lineups as well as a rear plastic belt cover. In terms of the best of the basic Kenmore machines, I'll be surprised if anyone didn't recommend the 158.1941. It was the apex of the Kenmore all-metal lineup. It sported 12 stitches (6 regular style straight and zig zag/6 "modifier" reverse stretch stitches), simple to control dials, push/pull handwheel clutch for bobbin winding, was available in super high shank, left and center homing, and low shank center homing models, had a removable flatbed that converted to free arm and a 1.0 amp motor.
The other models with similar pedigree are the 158.1940 (missing the push/pull clutch handwheel and the stitch selector window), 158.1931 (Identical to the 1941 except for the addition of cam disc capability for 30 decorative cams that could give your machine a lot more sewing options), 158.1946 (this was very much like the 1940 but had an automatic buttonholer stitch selection.
All of these machines were only 4mm width maximum zig zag width, needle position was fixed, not adjustable, and they all suffered from spin and snap issues with modern twisted winding thread spools (again, easily fixed) They suffer from the same things any older machine suffers from; varnished oil and dried grease. A frozen machine is not a broken machine. It just needs to be freed up via a lot of cleaning, re-lubing and re-greasing.
These machines rarely ever go out of adjustment, and are strong, dependable and very forgiving sewing machines. Other models of note are the 158.1700/1800 series machines, ANY of the Gritzner-Kayser built machines (516 models of the late 1950's to early 1960's), ALL of the C877 Happy Japan built machines (they also built White machines for the Canadian markets as well, as well as some of the 1960's Janome built Kenmore machines). There are 117 series models from the 1950's and the 120 series built by Chrysler chain drive models (I refer to this model as the "Buzz saw"...very noisy machine, but incredibly strong).
Let's say a beginner wants a great machine. Should they happen by a 1940, 1941, or even a 1251-1252, built in 1975 in Taiwan, I'd highly recommend picking one up. They all have the dual pulley system, 1.0 amp motor, the reverse stitch mechanism and all of them have superb sewing habits.
Learning to thread these machines as well as equipping the spool spindles with the featherweight springs to stop the thread snapping issue are the most difficult part of ownership. If they own one of these beauties, they're going to really have a great sewing experience.
Best part (aside from the 1251/1252 which both have a plastic non-load bearing camstack) is that these machines are heritage quality. That means they're made to outlast you or me.
The machine you have in this video is an excellent sewing machine (I envy you, truly envy you, wish I had one of those). It is rock solid, and with proper maintenance will last you forever while giving you such a deep quality stitch that you'll learn to appreciate how well engineered this machine is.
Thanks for the great info!
Awesome history 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤✨🩵✨✨
Love the demo!! My 201 sewsuch faster than yours seemed to, (mine 70 yrs old) getting a 158 tomorrow, now I'll be looking for one of these!
Thanks for the shout outs. Glad you found a use of the stickers 😂
I learned to sew on a handed down Kenmore made by Janome. It’s a computerized domestic that my mom sewed on for years. It’s not in the class of that all metal vintage. That’s a great looking machine you have there and the foot lift is quite impressive as is that presser foot pressure adjustment.
Just picked up one today from FB marketplace. Guy wanted 100 for it. I told him it was overpriced and that standard would be 50 at the most. It came with table and chair, cams and buttonhole so I gave him 70. He would have gone down more but I am fine with paying what I consider to be a fair price. The table and chair are in excellent condition. The machine has some paint chips but otherwise pristine. It just needed oiling and a good wipedown as the prior owner was clearly a smoker. It is for my mom and I think she will be happy. I had purchased the 1802 on a whim and it is in amazing condition BUT the stitch length won't work. It is stuck and I cannot get it to work. And trying to force it, I broke a piece of the knob. Totally bummed. This 1752 makes up for it. Still holding out hope I can fix the stitch length on the 1802 though. It looks like a brand new machine.
I have just been gifted a Kenmore 158 840 that was build in West Germany by a friend who has given up on sewing. It looks like it's done a bit of work but in good condition. Has the manual and lots of feet and accessories. My old computerised Janome keeps breaking down after 25 years of use so I'm very pleased to have the Kenmore. It goes nicely without much tweaking. Appreciate your honest reviews :)
Please note on these Kenmore machines, not all of them will use the "new" (Chinese) bobbins. They are all class 15 but I have three TOL Kenmore machines and they only sew well with the vintage Kenmore seven hole bobbins. Just an FYI to whoever is considering these Kenmores. They are top notch machines for sure. You cannot go wrong with the 158. series.
I have a 158.1914 and a 158.1940. Both of these machines work perfectly with both metal and plastic bobbins. I'm positive you're correct, but a model number would help.
Interesting! - I have both 7 and (I belive 9?) hole bobbins from vintage machines (Kenmore/Singer etc). Are the 7 holes exclusive to the Kenmores?
I had two cabinets with the sagging hinge problem. The solution? A stick of wood about 2.5 feet with an old sock over the end.
I have an early 1960 something Kenmore that I adore. It makes the best button holes for one, and I have all the cams, so I can sew all sorts of stitch patterns. It is solid steel, and a workhorse. I can sew the finest silk, and also some pretty dense fabrics, too. It does everything a modern computerized machine does, but it is all manual...and I am OK with that...I like a manual transmission in my car, too, lol. Just a throw back. All my appliances are old, but they were made very well, and it is a lot cheaper to have them repaired than to buy the "affordable" machines out there that are mostly made in China these days. I also have a 1989 Elna Jubilee that is now my fine sewing machine, but it will also quilt very well. I prefer my Kenmore overall though because it is a class 15 bobbin, and I think that they are the most reliable and certainly the easiest on to adjust the bobbin tension.
New is not best!
I'm with you - I collect vintage "Kennies", they are wonderful, solid, dependable and highly functional. They were well-designed and made to exacting standards. You can't buy that sort of quality today.
I have this machine and love it!!!❤
My first machine and start of my addiction is the camless version of this gem. It is a great working unit like most all vintage Kenmore.
I picked up a 'wheel' presser foot to do 'walking foot' tasks. It's a vertical wheel that leans away from the needle, not the low hotdog roller style foot.
Another great video Jason.
I have gotten my 158.095 up and going and it’s great. ($15 from Goodwill). They are fast! I set mine up with a corded lamp dimmer so I can dial back the speed, seems to work well so far.
I liked the B's quick cameo early on. And I thought I saw a stripe when that one came out.
We have the same favortie machines but for travel I need to keep my Kenny weight. 158.1040 it has an interesting history from a design stand point. I've done some heavy quilting on it. Good info again!
@thejasonofalltrades if you pop that presser foot control up, and rotate it, are there not numbers on the shaft? Both of my Kenmore have a scale on there stamped on 1 side. But you said you like doing it by feel. Hopefully that won't ruin it for you if yours has the markings as well ;-)
Thank you for sharing its very interesting I love sewing machines and this one it's very Interesting,,I will like to see if there some people out there interesting in the product I make I live in Texas...thank you for your time...
Love that heavy metal!
I have a Maruzen-made Kenmore model 90 in a beautiful mid-century cabinet. Purchased for $60. Works beautifully for MYOG. I’ve made backpacks out of X-Pac VX07. The final assembly has some sections of 6 layers of sailcloth and one or two layers of webbing. Those sections required a fair amount of manual handwheeling, but it crushed everything else, including bar tacks through multiple layers.
Maruzen is Art. That’s what they do with engineering. Kenmore has simple numbers, and the codes that tell us stuff. The first three relate to the contractor who built it. The others are model/series numbers.
and the last digit tells you what orientation the needle is as well as the type of shank.
Fascinating video, thank you. I see from that domestic zigzag machine scorecard you linked that the Necchi BU came out on top. I recently scored one for $20 and, after adjusting the needle height (God bless online service manuals!) and a way too loose bobbin case, I’m staggered at how good the machine is. Definitely worthwhile keeping an eye out for one in your neck of the woods. Although it’s worth noting that it doesn’t marry perfectly with a Singer-friendly table.
Wow, Roddy, that's a GREAT find! I've been hunting for Necchi BU for some time, just can't seem to find the right one at the right price in the right place at the right time lol! Sounds like I need to keep looking, though!
@@thejasonofalltrades I had a roadside trash day find of a Necchi with a frozen up zig-zag (time+neglect) that I got running and where I had heard all the 'ooh-la-la!' comments about how nice Necchi was ... I was unimpressed with this machine. Granted there are bad Singer examples out there but I wouldn't put Necchi at the top of my experience list.
A channel called GoldStarTools seems to have a connection with Consew. See if they could offer a version of the Thompson clones with a foot that will raise higher then 1/4". That's the problem I run into the most. Dealing with bulky materials or layers that stack up.
Thanks!
Thank you so much Hilda!
The first thee digits before the dot indicates the manufacturer of anything that Kenmore had made. You can look that up on the internet.
The Kenmore Dragon... lol... how many housewives from middle America in the middle of last century would have been wanting that particular model...?
I would imagine that for the table, there would have been an 'arm' on the side that swung out and supported the extension leaf... just relying on the hinges to hold the alignment over time would have been short-sighted... - might have to put in a bit of packing to hold the gap... grab some laminex samples at the hardware store - they are 1.2mm thick, and don't crush... so you can build the spacer up in layers...
Your table should have a front panel door behind that decorative handle with two knife-hinges and often a plastic tray/shelf behind it. Open that door and swing it around out of the way where it becomes the support for the opened top extension. Similar to how this (much different style) table performs the same support function ruclips.net/user/shortsrBQ2Gxa8xT8 If that handle is not a door then get a 'swing out' or 'folding' shelf bracket to mount under that lid, or even just a couple of smaller simple hinges and a block of wood to swing out when support is needed and fold back/down when not in use.
Yeah, I have other tables that have that feature, but this one doesn't open at all. I like your shelf bracket idea!
Thank you for making one of the most helpful videos I’ve watched on RUclips 💚🩵💙
I recently purchased this machine at my local Habitat for Humanity Restore and had it detailed and tuned up -♥️🐈it purrs sweeter than my 🐈 🐈⬛🐈⬛🐈❤ I LOVE IT❤
It’s the best spontaneous purchase I’ve ever made !
Question: I’d never heard of adjusting the amount of pressure of a pressure foot…What is the purpose of doing that?
Thanks again for adding some sparkle to my day 💙🐈🐈🐈🐈✨💖✨✨✨✨
NEXT UP: searching your channel for a BERNINA RECORD 730 review 💚🩵💙🩵🩵🧡🧡✨
Hi!
Thanks so much!
You may have already figured out I don't have a 730 review, but I do have a 930 video up :)
Adjusting foot pressure is something I rarely do, but the purpose is to apply the appropriate amount of pressure for a given fabric to feed properly. I believe (very generally speaking) you increase the pressure on thinner fabrics and decrease on thicker, but there are other variables to factor. I sewed for many years without knowing it was even a thing, to be honest.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and enjoy your Kenmore!
I think the lift height is because of their very tall feet. I had trouble finding feet for my Kenmore when I had one
Tenho uma aqui no Brasil
Afternoon Jason. In your opinion a Machine in this class do you feel you can make flat caps on?
Hey John!
To answer that question accurately, I would have to have made a flat cap lol.
This machine is about as tough and capable as vintage machines get, and if you're sewing any thing reasonable in terms of fabric weight and layers, it should be able to sew anything any other non-walking-foot machine can.
I'm not sure if, or to what extent, one has to sew through the bill of a flat cap when constructing one, that would be the only part I'd be concerned about. But I truly have never tried it, so take what I say with a grain of salt!
I bought an early 70s Kenmore from the Goodwill. Where do you find information on who manufactured it? My bobbin winder is a bit testy so I bought a cheap plastic winder, and I have a bunch of cams for it. The super high shank is challenging, though, for finding feet. I’d love a walking foot, but they’re pretty hard to find or expensive.
Hi Jean!
77gearco has a link on his blog to Kenmore manufacturers, I think.
local antique shop has a 1752 sitting on the floor with a sewing cabinet and several feet, runs and sews great. Apparently the one they have is cast in gold as they are asking $225 for it. I'll stick with my free Singer 223
WAY too much $$$$ for a 1752, even WITH a cabinet.
Helloo I have a sewing Shop and I got 10 sewing machines I got 5 singer and 5 Yuki's i been sewing for 20 year I sew heavy material for military like holters belts showlder bags...and many moore ..
Sound like a fun shop!
Does the front of the cabinet open? If not ,how about the left side wall under the flap when its open? Also sometimes there is a metal arm that comes out towards the back, at the top, on the left side that is a support for the flap. Here os also a stupid question, dod you look onside of the vabinet where the machine folds down to see if there is a foot pedal svrewed to the inner wall with a knee lever attached?
Hi!
I have other vintage tables with all of the options you suggest, but none of those apply here. And yes, I checked for a knee-lever operated pedal first, but good thinking!
Your sewing machine is good to make the buttons holes and to do the over lack for the edge of the material, I fix my own machines all my sewing machines are for heavy material I got 2 walking foot's
Any recommendations for finding parts?
I need to check my model number, but the metal plate where the bobbin goes is missing on my machine.
Sewing Parts Online has a pretty good selection, I would try there - www.sewingpartsonline.com (no affiliation, just had good experiences with them so far!)
Thank you for showing this video. You are not alone being confused by the Kenmore type numbers. I like to point out, that some of the Kenmores were made with an internal speed reducer. These machines should be significantly better for heavier work, due to the higher gear ratio to the motor. This video show an example of such a machine: ruclips.net/video/J4wvft-onYI/видео.html
That gear reduction pulley looks very much like the one on the Sailrite Ultrafeed!
@@thejasonofalltrades Yes an no. No, the Ultrafeed uses timing belts, and they are more modern belts with less power loss. Yes, they both utilize two belts to provide higher gear ratio from motor to machine.
@@thejasonofalltrades I have seen argued, that more European brands on the US market such as Bernina, Elna and Husqvarna Viking all had two belts in the drive, so the machines got better low speed control and higher needle punching force. Therefore Sears started to specify two belts on the Kenmores as well in order to regain some market share.
I have a Janome 532 and wanna do canvas and lightweight leather. It’s very similar to this machine. Do you think it’ll do the deal? The Facebook Gurus swear it’s a “quick death” to do that work on the machine. It’s a 1962 Model
Hi!
I am not familiar with that particular machine (old Janomes are highly regarded, though), but based on my experience with other vintage machines, here's my opinion.
First, whether it's a "quick death to do that work on that machine" really depends on what you mean by "work." You mention wanting to sew canvas and lightweight leather; if you're talking about sewing a few projects with those materials, making realistic efforts to keep the layer counts under control and otherwise not overtaxing the machine, you should definitely be able to sew those materials with that machine. However, if you're opening a shop making boat covers and leather bags, this is probably not the machine to do that with.
If that machine has any plastic gears (it might or might not in that vintage), that would be the biggest concern for breakage. If you try to sew through something too thick, you're more likely to break a needle than anything, I think.
The motor is likely going to prevent you from sewing through anything too thick, and you can carefully hand wheel through the thicker stuff when the motor can't keep up. (Don't force it, though; a little effort is fine, but if it isn't going through, you need reassess your project, not break something.) Where I get concerned is when people connect a machine like yours to an industrial 1/3 or 1/2 horsepower motor; that can certainly reveal the weaknesses inherent in a machine!
Get a selection of leather needles, and universal needles for whatever canvas you intend to use, start easy with a couple of layers, and add thickness/complexity until the machine can't easily sew through it. If your goals are simple, smaller objects (wallets, zip pouches, etc) you should be totally fine. Larger and more complex projects will be more difficult, and if you're planning to do a LOT of that, a walking-foot machine (either portable or industrial) is probably in your future.
I hope that helps! Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades super appreciate your help and guidance!! Saw you got back to me on the HD Singer too!! I’m literally thinking MAX layer is (2) 2/3oz wickett and Craig bridle Leather and (2) 8.5oz waxed canvas. Nothing insanely heavy like 16 layers of denim lol
Do you know how the kenmore 158.650 would stack up against this thing? I’m looking to do similar projects to yours and would like straight and zig zag.
Hi!
I unfortunately have no experience with any other Kenmore machines of this vintage. I hear great things about them, but their numbering convention makes it a challenge for me to remember which models people have mentioned to me over the years.
That said, my hunch is all vintage Kenmore machines should be quite good. I've used a ton of vintage sewing machines at this point, and I can't think of any that were absolutely useless; some have more power, better feeding, etc., but largely it comes down to personal preference. If you have a 158.650 or are considering one, I'd just go for it!
How would this machine work for sewing a hunting saddle that requires 3 or 4 layers of webbing on cordura
Hi Richard,
With the usual caveats that a walking-foot machine will feed better (therefore maintaining a consistent stitch length more easily, possibly putting less wear on the thread as you're sewing), I think this machine should be able to handle a job like that just fine. You'll want to consider the strength of the seam, which is directly related to the thread you are using. I think this machine would handle V92 just fine (I haven't personally tried it on this machine, but my Singer 237 runs it, and this machine is at least as capable I believe).
The following is an example; the source is a Canadian Aviation Life Support Equipment Sewing Procedures and Equipment document I was given some time ago, and it's not something I can easily share. You may be able to find a similar source to confirm the information. According to this document, you calculate the strength of a sewn seam as follows:
breaking strength of thread x stitcher per inch
V92 bonded nylon has an average breaking strength of 15 pounds (The Thread Exchange), so with a stitch length of 6 stitches per inch, that yields a seam strength of 90 pounds per inch.
V69 bonded nylon has an average breaking strength of 11 pounds (The Thread Exchange), so with a stitch length of 6 stitches per inch, that yields a seam strength of 66 pounds per inch.
Using this methodology, you can come up with a plan for how many stitches per inch you need to get the right amount of strength given how much room you have for the seam. I think in climbing circles, a factor of 3 (make it 3 times stronger than it needs to be) is generally preferred, but don't trust me on that.
I've watched a few videos of folks making hunting saddles, and many of the ones I saw used a commercially-produced rock climbing harness as a back-up. Probably not a bad idea. The danger with DIY stuff for things that your life depends on is that they often will work great right up until the moment they don't, so exercise extreme caution!
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!