I use the nano polymer exclusively on my Bambu Lab X1C(all build plates) and it is by far the best adhesive and release agent I have come across. Easily recommend a purchase.
Thank you guys so much for making this adhesive. I grabbed a sample bottle about a year ago and had not used it until today. I was impressed with how well my first layer came out, literally flawless. It wasn't a pain to get the part off and it just literally did what it's advertised to do. Keep doing great work Vision Miner!
Thanks to 3d Printing Nerd & Vision Miner for turning me onto this product. I'll be testing the sample bottle and if it works I'll be glad to pay for a full bottle. I've been frustrated for a while now trying to print using Fillimentum's CPE material (modifided PETG).
I got a sample and it's fantastic. Glue stick was leaving gunk everywhere and a less than ideal print surface. But this stuff dries flat. It was scary how well my first test was attached to the build plate. The sample is going really far. ~20 drops is enough for a Prusa build plate. I wish it came in smaller bottles because when I get a refill, it's going to last a long time.
have had zero successful prints without a raft so decided to pick this up and about to start my first non raft print with it. Also love supporting local biz so being socal based sold me immediately! now here is hoping it works as intended and I didn't mess up applying haha
@68Cypher good to hear. What print surfaces have you tried it with? I have tried stock, PEI, Glass, and G10. I ditched glasses due to poor adhesion and went with G10 because the flatness is close to glass. G10 adhesion is so god damned strong that it won't let go of prints sonetimes, so I end up having to use a bond/release agent anyways! I hate the ugliness glue stick leaves on the bottom of prints how how quickly it needs to be re-applied, so i want to try this with glass.
@JValor so at first glass but then I also used it with my FYSETC pei textured and smooth. You'll see yhe residue on the bed but I've never noticed anything on the bottom of the prints
Thanks to Vision MIner and 3d printing nerd I am going to try a free sample. I do not print high temp parts so it will be interesting to see if it is better than PEI or glue stick for the normal hobby type prints. Those that fallow my channel know I do 100's of custom mechanical robot projects with mechanical parts that have to be perfect . So should be fun to test out.
You specify reapplying it each time on high temp applications, but you don't address how often to reapply for PLA or PETG. I'm currently using a sample bottle and would like to align my expectations with the reality I'm facing. Thanks in advance
I just switched from ABS to ASA and my previous adhesive (Aquanet) along with a brim (10mm) did not work. The corners detached about 1/2hr into a 9hr print. I tried this Nano adhesive and the print job was going along very nicely. With just a couple of hours left in my print job and being very late at night, I let the job finish while I went to bed. I woke up to find what watching this video would have warned me: take it off while part is still warm. The adhesive sheared off a layer of glass and stuck to the car stereo/monitor bezel (for 1988 camaro). But at least the corners didn't detach🙂
How do I clean it off the bed? I applied hot the first time when I really shouldn't have and I'm getting poor results, would like a fresh start. Will dish soap or alcohol take care of it?
What is the wait time between the application of Nano Polymer Adhesive and then starting the print. In other words, how long should I wait after applying NPA and printing....should it be tacky, dry etc. Thanks
30 Seconds or so, it will be totally dry. It's based in alcohol, so as soon as it evaporates, it's good to go! You can also apply hot for higher-temp materials, causing it to boil on the plate and create a powder-like surface, which works very well for printing.
Well, the best luck we've had with POM was blue tape or brown tape with this adhesive on top of it. It's a funky material -- we don't recommend printing it, there are high temperature nylons which work much better and can replace POM in most cases!
Sweden here, hmm looks very interesting. Just got the X1C and printing 24/7... Where does one get one of them free sample bottles mentioned in the comments below?
Finally got some of this after 4 failed prints of a U.S.S. Titan A from Star Trek Picard, in Gold Silk PLA this 2d4h36m print has failed 4 times on my Sidewinder X2 anywhere form 19% to albeit nice 69% done. I'll report back but so far so good no signs of curling or detachment from my steel flex plate. if this works, (knock on wood) you'll have saved my sanity and my hair for which I was on the verge of ripping out.
Generally, you always apply to a cold bed, or while it's heating up (it evaporates quickly) -- in some instances, you can achieve extra grip by applying it hot, which will create a thicker coating, sometimes used for difficult high-temp parts.
Any plans to have an easier shipping method to Canadians? Shipping alone is half the cost of this, really not excited spending $90 for a bottle that's only $50
Working with Polymax PC in a Bambu X1C. Build surface is THEKKIINNGG textured PEI heated to 120C, chamber temp is around 51C and hotend 280C. I’m printing at bambu default speeds, so it’s moving along pretty quick. The bracket I’m printing is around 150mm or so at longest runs and I’m using 10 walls for strength. I get slight lifting at the corners eventually. Do you think your adhesive will help or is physics just going to win this one regardless? Anything else I can change to get a 100% warp free part?
For me the product didnt work, glass bed printing PC Or PC/ABS or Nylon its warps from the bed tested a lot of setups and differents ways to apply and seems that dont work
hmmmm.... that's strange... you're heating the bed, right? How hot, is the question? If you were at a lower temp, not much can keep those materials down -- PC and ABS we print both around 90-110c, nylon usually 80-100c....
I don't see a great way to apply this to a belt printer, since the upcoming print will be from underneath the printer. Is there a way I can dilute it and put into a spray bottle? Then I can just roll the Z-axis one full revolution and coat the entire belt.
You could probably do that! I know they've been using it over at the 3D Printing Nerd on their CR30's, but we haven't tried a spray bottle ourselves (well, we did long ago, but didn't like the mess)
im using the Ender 3 Max Neo.... ive cleaned the plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel, drew an X on the spots i printed spread it out and let it dry for 2 minutes and the PLA prints didnt stick.... please help!
Was your bed heated? It does need 50-60c to activate before it holds, but reach out, give us a call or something, and we'll make sure you get it working!
@@VisionMiner hello and thanks for your response….. after watching a few videos on RUclips and adjusting a few settings, I finally got the adhesive to work right!Things are sticking as long as they need to now! thank you for making this adhesive!
I'm having issues getting the Vision Miner CarbonX PC+CF to stick to the bed in an enclosed chamber, bed temp @ 120C, extruder temp @300C, and with the Nano Polymer. It just warps and comes off.
How thick are you printing? In an enclosure without active heating, if you're printing too thick, the warping is too great to print without being warmed. Try reducing the number of walls, as the most warping occurs around sharp angles of the part. If you have a problem area, you can also add a "lilypad" which is just a small, 0.5mm pad placed at the corner where the warping occurs, to give it more surface area to grab down to. Using a quality surface is essential, as well, what are you printing on? Also, make sure you dry your polycarbonate thoroughly -- if not, often it becomes impossible to stick (as do many of the high-temp polymers)
Are you not heating the bed? It does require heat, usually a bit more than normal -- for example, with PLA or other normal filaments, 60c+ is what we recommend - what material and bed type are you using? We guarantee our product! - Rob
@@VisionMiner You can guarantee all you want. the reality is, that it simply does not work. I've tried it in a bunch of different situations, and in not one did it help in any way.
@Adam We've got thousands of customers and reviews that disagree with you. Please provide some details -- what bed surface are you using? What material? What temperatures? Something simple has to be off if you didn't get results, but if you can't provide any details, then there must be no truth to your statements... we're here to help, seriously, just give us a shot.
@@VisionMiner and now you have a customer that is dissatisfied. And you are calling them a liar because your product isn't working. Both a nylon + carbon fiber mix and regular ABS don't stick for shit. Glass, both sides of the qidi tech stickers, nothing works. A gluestick works better than this crap.
We did not call you a liar -- you never reached out for help, so we couldn't help you, so thank you for finally providing details :) Our recommendation for ABS and Nylon are both 90c+ on the bed -- often, when it doesn't work (because we DO get customers calling saying it doesn't work, on occasion) -- it's because of the bed temperature being too low. This has always fixed the non-sticking issue, especially on glass. I can't speak exactly for the qidi tech stickers, but most aftermarket surfaces have been reported to work fine. The way the adhesive works generally requires slightly more heat than normal, for many materials. After all, it was designed for PEEK and ULTEM. I recommend giving it another shot with a higher bed temperature, and if you do, I'm sure you'll love the stuff! If you try again, and it still doesn't work, reach out and I'm happy to give you a full refund. - Rob
I use the nano polymer exclusively on my Bambu Lab X1C(all build plates) and it is by far the best adhesive and release agent I have come across.
Easily recommend a purchase.
Glad to hear that it's working well on your X1C!
Thank you guys so much for making this adhesive. I grabbed a sample bottle about a year ago and had not used it until today. I was impressed with how well my first layer came out, literally flawless. It wasn't a pain to get the part off and it just literally did what it's advertised to do. Keep doing great work Vision Miner!
Great to hear!! That's what we're here for :)
Thanks to 3d Printing Nerd & Vision Miner for turning me onto this product. I'll be testing the sample bottle and if it works I'll be glad to pay for a full bottle. I've been frustrated for a while now trying to print using Fillimentum's CPE material (modifided PETG).
I got a sample and it's fantastic. Glue stick was leaving gunk everywhere and a less than ideal print surface. But this stuff dries flat. It was scary how well my first test was attached to the build plate. The sample is going really far. ~20 drops is enough for a Prusa build plate. I wish it came in smaller bottles because when I get a refill, it's going to last a long time.
I bought this as a impulse buy at Microcenter last week and am deeply in love with it now.
have had zero successful prints without a raft so decided to pick this up and about to start my first non raft print with it. Also love supporting local biz so being socal based sold me immediately! now here is hoping it works as intended and I didn't mess up applying haha
Did it work good
@@JValor like a charm!
@68Cypher good to hear. What print surfaces have you tried it with?
I have tried stock, PEI, Glass, and G10. I ditched glasses due to poor adhesion and went with G10 because the flatness is close to glass. G10 adhesion is so god damned strong that it won't let go of prints sonetimes, so I end up having to use a bond/release agent anyways!
I hate the ugliness glue stick leaves on the bottom of prints how how quickly it needs to be re-applied, so i want to try this with glass.
@JValor so at first glass but then I also used it with my FYSETC pei textured and smooth. You'll see yhe residue on the bed but I've never noticed anything on the bottom of the prints
Thanks to Vision MIner and 3d printing nerd I am going to try a free sample. I do not print high temp parts so it will be interesting to see if it is better than PEI or glue stick for the normal hobby type prints. Those that fallow my channel know I do 100's of custom mechanical robot projects with mechanical parts that have to be perfect . So should be fun to test out.
Fantastic, looking forward to hearing how it goes! One thing I think you'll like --- no more brims :)
You specify reapplying it each time on high temp applications, but you don't address how often to reapply for PLA or PETG. I'm currently using a sample bottle and would like to align my expectations with the reality I'm facing. Thanks in advance
I just switched from ABS to ASA and my previous adhesive (Aquanet) along with a brim (10mm) did not work. The corners detached about 1/2hr into a 9hr print. I tried this Nano adhesive and the print job was going along very nicely. With just a couple of hours left in my print job and being very late at night, I let the job finish while I went to bed. I woke up to find what watching this video would have warned me: take it off while part is still warm. The adhesive sheared off a layer of glass and stuck to the car stereo/monitor bezel (for 1988 camaro). But at least the corners didn't detach🙂
How do I clean it off the bed? I applied hot the first time when I really shouldn't have and I'm getting poor results, would like a fresh start. Will dish soap or alcohol take care of it?
What is the wait time between the application of Nano Polymer Adhesive and then starting the print. In other words, how long should I wait after applying NPA and printing....should it be tacky, dry etc. Thanks
30 Seconds or so, it will be totally dry. It's based in alcohol, so as soon as it evaporates, it's good to go! You can also apply hot for higher-temp materials, causing it to boil on the plate and create a powder-like surface, which works very well for printing.
would it still be effective if i applied the adhesive while the build plate was still hot after finishing a print?
Yes, it still works, but the surface finish won't be as good usually -- but it can actually help on very difficult parts :)
I found this due to the 3d Printing Nerd video as well, and was wondering if this will allow printing POM without requiring a garolite build plate?
Well, the best luck we've had with POM was blue tape or brown tape with this adhesive on top of it. It's a funky material -- we don't recommend printing it, there are high temperature nylons which work much better and can replace POM in most cases!
Only Zillagrip works for POM
I would really appreciate to have one of your free samples, but the shipping is really expensive even though it's the cheapest shipping option...
Contact us, we can try to get the best price. The website doesn't always calculate international shipping correctly :/
Sweden here, hmm looks very interesting. Just got the X1C and printing 24/7... Where does one get one of them free sample bottles mentioned in the comments below?
Finally got some of this after 4 failed prints of a U.S.S. Titan A from Star Trek Picard, in Gold Silk PLA this 2d4h36m print has failed 4 times on my Sidewinder X2 anywhere form 19% to albeit nice 69% done. I'll report back but so far so good no signs of curling or detachment from my steel flex plate. if this works, (knock on wood) you'll have saved my sanity and my hair for which I was on the verge of ripping out.
That's Great ! Could you please confirm that when should we apply this pre-heating or post-heating for optimum results
Generally, you always apply to a cold bed, or while it's heating up (it evaporates quickly) -- in some instances, you can achieve extra grip by applying it hot, which will create a thicker coating, sometimes used for difficult high-temp parts.
@@VisionMiner Thanks a lot ! Kindly confirm that what is the maximum temperature that glue can be applied
Any plans to have an easier shipping method to Canadians? Shipping alone is half the cost of this, really not excited spending $90 for a bottle that's only $50
Any way to get this in EU?
Contact your local distributor, and ask them to carry it! :)
@@VisionMiner Thanks! I0m waiting for the sample to try and then I will ask my distributor.
does this adhesive evaporate from the heat produced by the build plate?
Yep, it dries completely before you print
Working with Polymax PC in a Bambu X1C. Build surface is THEKKIINNGG textured PEI heated to 120C, chamber temp is around 51C and hotend 280C. I’m printing at bambu default speeds, so it’s moving along pretty quick. The bracket I’m printing is around 150mm or so at longest runs and I’m using 10 walls for strength. I get slight lifting at the corners eventually. Do you think your adhesive will help or is physics just going to win this one regardless? Anything else I can change to get a 100% warp free part?
Does this require a heated bed?
Yes, you'll want heat -- doesn't really work on cold beds
Will This work on a kapton topped bed? (the bed on craftbot+)
For me the product didnt work, glass bed printing PC Or PC/ABS or Nylon its warps from the bed tested a lot of setups and differents ways to apply and seems that dont work
hmmmm.... that's strange... you're heating the bed, right? How hot, is the question? If you were at a lower temp, not much can keep those materials down -- PC and ABS we print both around 90-110c, nylon usually 80-100c....
I don't see a great way to apply this to a belt printer, since the upcoming print will be from underneath the printer. Is there a way I can dilute it and put into a spray bottle? Then I can just roll the Z-axis one full revolution and coat the entire belt.
You could probably do that! I know they've been using it over at the 3D Printing Nerd on their CR30's, but we haven't tried a spray bottle ourselves (well, we did long ago, but didn't like the mess)
Does this interfere with auto bed leveling?
Nope, it's super thin and won't affect it at all!
im using the Ender 3 Max Neo.... ive cleaned the plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel, drew an X on the spots i printed spread it out and let it dry for 2 minutes and the PLA prints didnt stick.... please help!
Was your bed heated? It does need 50-60c to activate before it holds, but reach out, give us a call or something, and we'll make sure you get it working!
@@VisionMiner hello and thanks for your response….. after watching a few videos on RUclips and adjusting a few settings, I finally got the adhesive to work right!Things are sticking as long as they need to now! thank you for making this adhesive!
I'm having issues getting the Vision Miner CarbonX PC+CF to stick to the bed in an enclosed chamber, bed temp @ 120C, extruder temp @300C, and with the Nano Polymer. It just warps and comes off.
How thick are you printing? In an enclosure without active heating, if you're printing too thick, the warping is too great to print without being warmed. Try reducing the number of walls, as the most warping occurs around sharp angles of the part. If you have a problem area, you can also add a "lilypad" which is just a small, 0.5mm pad placed at the corner where the warping occurs, to give it more surface area to grab down to. Using a quality surface is essential, as well, what are you printing on? Also, make sure you dry your polycarbonate thoroughly -- if not, often it becomes impossible to stick (as do many of the high-temp polymers)
Can this glue work with non heated beds ?
Unfortunately no, it doesn't really work without the heated bed.
Where do I get the brush?
It's in the bag
Absolutely doesn't work and a waste of money.
Are you not heating the bed? It does require heat, usually a bit more than normal -- for example, with PLA or other normal filaments, 60c+ is what we recommend - what material and bed type are you using? We guarantee our product!
- Rob
@@VisionMiner You can guarantee all you want. the reality is, that it simply does not work. I've tried it in a bunch of different situations, and in not one did it help in any way.
@Adam We've got thousands of customers and reviews that disagree with you. Please provide some details -- what bed surface are you using? What material? What temperatures? Something simple has to be off if you didn't get results, but if you can't provide any details, then there must be no truth to your statements... we're here to help, seriously, just give us a shot.
@@VisionMiner and now you have a customer that is dissatisfied. And you are calling them a liar because your product isn't working. Both a nylon + carbon fiber mix and regular ABS don't stick for shit. Glass, both sides of the qidi tech stickers, nothing works. A gluestick works better than this crap.
We did not call you a liar -- you never reached out for help, so we couldn't help you, so thank you for finally providing details :)
Our recommendation for ABS and Nylon are both 90c+ on the bed -- often, when it doesn't work (because we DO get customers calling saying it doesn't work, on occasion) -- it's because of the bed temperature being too low. This has always fixed the non-sticking issue, especially on glass. I can't speak exactly for the qidi tech stickers, but most aftermarket surfaces have been reported to work fine.
The way the adhesive works generally requires slightly more heat than normal, for many materials. After all, it was designed for PEEK and ULTEM.
I recommend giving it another shot with a higher bed temperature, and if you do, I'm sure you'll love the stuff! If you try again, and it still doesn't work, reach out and I'm happy to give you a full refund.
- Rob