Have run thousands of 9 mm range pickups through this exact setup and this press and makarov die work great. I have 2 of these processing presses I like them so much , the other is set up to deprime , good video!
I saw this about 4 months ago and thought it looked like a great idea. I purchased the Lee APP press and had to wait 2 months to get the 9mm Makarov crimp die as suggested. I used my lanolin and alcohol lube that I've been using for many years at a ratio of about 10 to 1. The process does in fact work as far a being able to get the cases through the die, the problem is that most of the cases won't pass the case gauge check. They almost all failed the test. Also I thought the amount of muscle required to initiate the process was way to munch strain on the press itself, not to mention my arm. Unfortunately with all the Glocks out there with unsupported barrels, we have this huge influx of screwed up brass to deal with. After deciding this wasn't such a good idea after all, I remembered that a had a "Lee 9mm Undersize Carbide Sizing Die". (about .003 under spec.) So I put the the shell holder adaptor back on the bottom and put the undersized carbide sizing die on the top and it worked out perfectly. It takes half the effort and there 's less strain on your press. (and your arm) Also all the brass passes the case gauge test perfectly. And I think the best part is you don't have to put the cases in upside down which is a real pain and not to mention a slow process. That way I was able to use my automatic case feeder and it worked perfectly. The Lee Universal case feeder with the 4 tubes works great too. I really do appreciate all the effort that went into this video. If he hadn't presented this information I would still be fighting bulged cases, Thank you! PS: I used the same process for my 45 acp brass as well and it too worked out great. It all gauges out perfectly and it's really fast.
Thanks for the info on the 9mm undersized die. I might need to find one. I've not had an issue with loaded rounds passing a plunk test in a hornady guage. The 9mm does have a slight taper that needs to be reintroduced with a sizing operation after. Not sure if this was an issue. Thanks for the comment!
The only reason I found why the carbide ring cracks is feeding one through backwards. The steel plunger inserted inside the case will push the case through, but doesn’t give the brass anywhere to flow, so it breaks the ring. I was doing 1500-1600 an hour on a jury rigged set up, and when you go that fast, sometimes one goes through backwards. After breaking two dies, I radiused the plunger. Slow learner…..
Good stuff! 👀 I got my APP a few weeks back and I've ran thousands of 45 and 223 brass through it using a Universal decapping die. Since I don't load 9mm (yet, lol), I've only had to bulge bust a few of my 45's that wouldn't quite fit in my case gauge or pass the plunk test, so I just used my Classic Turret for those. It's great not having to disassemble the entire cartridge. I also got the swage kit for 223, but I didn't have very good luck. Decided to go with a Dillon Super swager instead. Liked and subbed! 👍
Glad to know on the swage kit. I actually ordered that kit and the Lee universal decapper to see if I can solve that decapping issue with my Lyman decapper. I'm planning to do a swaging video on .223. I'm hoping it works. I've had several emails on it so I figured I'd give it a try. Today I'm still cutting the crimps out with the RCBS military crimp removal tool.
@@ringsteeltv3179 Yeah, Andy79Z28 did a video on the swage kit and had the same issues I did. You may already have one, but get the Ballistictools go-no-go gauge for 223. That will tell you right away if the swager is working. Looking forward to your test!
I also got the APP with the bulge buster, bullet sizer (and bushings) and the primer pocket swager recently. I have swaged a pile (800+) of converted military 556 whisper cases with little or no issues. Just check thru your setup, it is working great for me.
Greg Swift No I did not but have since loaded a bunch. I installed the primers with a hand primer tool (old Lee hand prime) and the “feel” was good, not too loose and not too tight.
@@beginning-reloading Primer Pocket go/no-go gauge will not give you good indication after swaging. Swaging creates a bevel, cannot really expand the pocket itself with the forces we're working with. Bevel helps guide the primer into the pocket...
9 mm a tapered case. That's the reason they don't offer a bulge busting kit for it. They only offer both busting kits for straight wall cases. You run a paper case through Bulls buster you're only running it through at one diameter taper case is multiple diameters. So if you could find something it was the proper base diameter where the bulge is on a 9 mm it possibly could work but it's gonna be iffy at best because you could be slightly out of spec a few thousands away and you're still gonna be a few thousands out of spec after running through the bulge buster.
I had an issue with bulged cases on my 38 supercomp, seems the barrel may have been rechambered for 9x23 before I got it, bulged a lot of cases at the base which would not fit in the new 38super barrel, all I did was grind the bottom from a lee 38 super sizing die so it would size right down almost to the rim, load it in the dillion xl650, lube and ran the cases through the stations and loaded rounds normally, then once all the cases were debulged and loaded put the dillion sizing die back in and never had another issue.
I just tried this set up on my Lee app press that I received today. New Lee Makarov Factory Crimp Die. I just pushed through two empty 9mm cases, lubed with synthetic motor oil. Took a lot of force to get them through, much more than what I expected or what force you seem to be exerting in your video. Not sure this will actually be a workable solution. Could be the newer Lee Makarov Factory Crimp Dies have a smaller diameter carbide ring, mine is measuring 0.385.
Bartley, Just curious if you can measure both the rim diameter and web area just in front of the rim before and after resizing. My after sizing diameter was .389 but includes springback. My carbide ring measures .3845 so basically the same as yours. I dont think I would use oil. If I were to use any lube you would have much better luck with wax, either Imperial Sizing Die Wax or Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. Oils cant compress and in much the same way case shoulders can dimple when using oil in sizing bottleneck cases I think it's possible oil could hydrolock in the front crevice of the buldge causing additional pressure. No lube is required with carbide and I dont run any in my process or the video. I'm assuming you clean and size the brass prior to running them through the buldge buster as per the instructions. If not I would be sure to start there. Let me know how it goes.
@@ringsteeltv3179 My after sizing diameter was .387. Of course I haven't even read the instructions yet, so I did not size before. Thanks for the tip on the oil, had not really though that would be an issue. When sizing, I normally use lanolin with alcohol mix. I normally reload on a Loadmaster and have had very good luck with it, though there was a steep learning curve. I will post back after doing a good read of the instructions and complete informed setup.
I will bet money once you resize first you will be good to go. You should resize after also as the 9mm is slightly different than most straight walled cases and has a slight taper that is lost during the buldge busting process. Since you are using a loadmaster I'm assuming you will resize as part of that progressive process anyway. Lee kind of hides the resize fact in the instructions. I believe it simply says something like "use a resized case or fully loaded ammunition." towards the end of the instructions vs at the beginning where is would be most helpful. Happy shooting!
@@ringsteeltv3179 Thanks for all the help. I have run about 300 cases and 90 loaded 9mm rounds through the Makarov FCD with the LEE app press. I ended up lubing with my lanolin/alcohol mix, and making a significantly longer handle, about 18" additional length. It is only a temporary handle extension, slips over the existing after taking off the plastic red knob, but it does allow for significantly more leverage and smoother operation. The longer handle extension allows me to better control the force exerted on the case/round and it is being pushed through the Makarov FCD to bulge bust. I did not resize prior to running through the FCD, maybe that would help but I am trying to reduce the effort and time to reload while still producing quality reloads. And I did try sizing on the APP press before I read that you need to use the standard shell holder or you can damage the rim on some cases. I damages about 20 before I went back and discovered this little tidbit that the pas through shell holders should not be used for resizing. Obviously more to it than one would initially think. I will continue my pursuit in an effort to determine the most effective ways to incorporate the LEE APP press into my reloading regiment. Be Happy! And again thanks for the excellent video!
Factory crimp die removes the bell on the case mouth that is created by the powder thru expanding die. The 9mm Makarov die is being used to remove bulges towards the head of the case that were created by shooting 9mm in a Glock which has a unsupported chamber area that tends to cause a bulge on one side of the case near the case head. The factory crimp die doesn't touch the case down that low. The 9mm brass is being pushed completely thru a 9mm Makarov die just to remove that bulge from shooting 9mm in a Glock with a factory barrel. Aftermarket Glock barrels usually don't have that issue as they have a fully supported chamber like most guns.
I appreciate the detailed response. I always understood the FCD reshaped brass fully. So many opinions online with sometime contradicting information. Thank you
LedGuitar, go take a look torwards the end of this video as I've recently changed my reloading process for 9mm. ruclips.net/video/2Wl_QxR_oJU/видео.html I will be doing a new video soon with the entire "new" process. To answer your question you must Bulge Bust first then resize after. The 9mm has a slight taper from the base to the top of the case that needs to be reintroduced after bulge busting.
Just watched the other video. Great info. Sorry to hear about the issue. Glad ur ok. I’ve been a prs rifle reloaded for a while now, but just started with pistol. Im loading 9mm and some of the bases of the cartridge it seems are bulged. It’s range brass. That’s why I was looking into bulge busting. I have like 300 rds loaded that stick up out of my go gauge a bit, and don’t pass plunk in the gauge but DO pass plunk in multiple barrels. The chamber fine in my pistols too. Is this dangerous? Thanks in advance
Will you be able to push loaded rounds through the bulge buster? I presume you would, but would like your thoughts on it. I hoot .40 in IPSC (USPSA) and have pushed thousands through the old bulge buster kit, but the inserting and removing get extremely tedious and pushing the round through on the up stroke is very tiring and the cause of many blisters on my hands. Thanks for a great review.
Confused as hell here.... It looks like you need this particular press and that the Makerov FSD allows the case to go all the way through it. Unlike any sizing die I have ever seen. Also completely unfamiliar with the bulge buster parts you show. *** HOW WOULD I SET THIS UP ON A NORMAL SINGLE STAGE PRESS??
This is a great question and one that required me to go back and take some measurements. The quick answer is that I've had zero issues with the rim being damaged in any way. I've also not experienced any feeding issues through the 4 different pistols I load for and various friends guns that have shot my ammo. Prior to bulge busting I did have feeding issues with bulged cases. The long answer is I just took some measurements of about 20 case rim’s prior to bulge busting and after to understand what is going on with the rim. Before I bulge bust I get a rim diameter measurement of anywhere from .389-.393 depending on brand. On bulged cases I get a measurement of greater than .395 in what I’m calling the web area that is at the base of the case in front of the rim. On cases that are not bulged the diameter is almost always the same as the rim diameter. I ran these 20 through the bulge buster and rechecked the measurements. Both the web area and the rim measure .389 after running through the bulge buster. It’s clear some sizing is happening of the case rim on anything larger than .389. I can see that the rim is being sized as the rim is shiny now. I’ve never thought to look at this before. I also checked for burrs or any damage in any way to the rim and see nothing other than a change in measurement. The 9mm Luger has a slight chamfer on the back of the rim which probably helps with the stresses of bulge busting. I have a box of new Herter’s 9mm and many measured .389 out of the box so even new ammo is already at the bulge busted size out of the box. For this reason I don’t think you would see any extraction issues with bulge busted cases. For the record I have had an occasion that a case is EXTREMELY hard to push through. Maybe 1 in a hundred and I suspect now this is due to a rim diameter that is well outside of spec. It think this is why Lee recommended the Makarov die originally as it has slightly more room for the rim. I think Lee stopped recommending the Makarov as the carbide ring was getting damaged in some cases. I think it’s possible that depending on manufacturing tolerances for this carbide ring that some could have been sizing much more than my sample and causing either a cracked ring or damaged rim. I’m only speculating as I don’t know what Lee’s position is on it. As reference, Redding also makes a die for bulge busting that works in the same way. It is called the Redding GRX which I believe stands for Redding Glock Prescription as this is mainly seen in Glock fired brass. I believe you could use the Redding Die in the same way as I've done in this video but don't know for sure. I do think in either case it is important to resize the case after the bulge busting as the 9mm is a tapered case. I do this on my Lee Pro 1000 after all this case prep is done as part of my loading process. Thanks for your extremely good question. I hope I gave enough detail to answer your question. If there is interest I’m glad to post a quick video explaining all this with some measurements to show this. Steve
Rim diameter is .394", body starts with .391 based on SAAMI dimensions. I'm guessing the sizing ring is set up to the rim diameter. Lee should come up with something like a primer pocket swager where brass is pushed inside a FL die with taper, get rid of the bulge, then push it out with a rod...
I tried for 2 hours to put those two solid steel base plates to go together and mount to my bench with no success.I had to stop trying before I lost my sanity
No not at all. If the case sits flush with the top of the guage and drops easily then no. This will only apply to auto pistols that have unsupported chambers like the Glocks. If you pick up random range brass you could separate out the ones that do not fit the guage and discard.
First time seeing this press; seems much faster than my Lee C-press. As for the Bulge Buster... I've found out through many 9mm rounds not going into battery, that the standard die set does not resize the bottom of the case (where the bulge forms). Have you (or anyone in the comments) ever used the 9mm-U die to solve this problem? The U-die is an undersize die which undersizes the brass by .1000th". Would this solve the same problem that the bulge buster aims to fix?
I am new to reloading and want to get the APP. I picked up mixed range brass 9mm and wanted to bulge bust them. I have the full die set to resize after. Would the NEW APP bulge busting kit with a Makarov Die work the same?
Have run thousands of 9 mm range pickups through this exact setup and this press and makarov die work great. I have 2 of these processing presses I like them so much , the other is set up to deprime , good video!
Thank you for posting this video. It cleared up a lot of questions I had. The video was also short and to the point, which was nice.
Thanks None Ya. I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Some 9mm brass from random range pickups can be very tight. This method works great, make sure and lube and the carbide ring should last.
I'm impressed with your explanation on how this Lee APP machine operates & how its used.
Clear, concise & straight to the point.
Thank you much! 👍
Broke the carbide ring on my 1st Bulge Buster die, lubed the cases with Hornady One-Shot case lube since I got the 2nd. Works fine and smoother too.
Thanks so much for the video. Glad someone did this
I saw this about 4 months ago and thought it looked like a great idea. I purchased the Lee APP press and had to wait 2 months to get the 9mm Makarov crimp die as suggested.
I used my lanolin and alcohol lube that I've been using for many years at a ratio of about 10 to 1. The process does in fact work as far a being able to get the cases through the die, the problem is that most of the cases won't pass the case gauge check. They almost all failed the test. Also I thought the amount of muscle required to initiate the process was way to munch strain on the press itself, not to mention my arm.
Unfortunately with all the Glocks out there with unsupported barrels, we have this huge influx of screwed up brass to deal with. After deciding this wasn't such a good idea after all, I remembered that a had a "Lee 9mm Undersize Carbide Sizing Die". (about .003 under spec.) So I put the the shell holder adaptor back on the bottom and put the undersized carbide sizing die on the top and it worked out perfectly. It takes half the effort and there 's less strain on your press. (and your arm) Also all the brass passes the case gauge test perfectly. And I think the best part is you don't have to put the cases in upside down which is a real pain and not to mention a slow process. That way I was able to use my automatic case feeder and it worked perfectly. The Lee Universal case feeder with the 4 tubes works great too. I really do appreciate all the effort that went into this video. If he hadn't presented this information I would still be fighting bulged cases, Thank you!
PS: I used the same process for my 45 acp brass as well and it too worked out great. It all gauges out perfectly and it's really fast.
Thanks for the info on the 9mm undersized die. I might need to find one. I've not had an issue with loaded rounds passing a plunk test in a hornady guage. The 9mm does have a slight taper that needs to be reintroduced with a sizing operation after. Not sure if this was an issue. Thanks for the comment!
Good info. Is it still working out for you?
Glock has single handedly screwed up the reloading world.
The only reason I found why the carbide ring cracks is feeding one through backwards. The steel plunger inserted inside the case will push the case through, but doesn’t give the brass anywhere to flow, so it breaks the ring. I was doing 1500-1600 an hour on a jury rigged set up, and when you go that fast, sometimes one goes through backwards.
After breaking two dies, I radiused the plunger. Slow learner…..
Great comment! Thanks for sharing.
I like this tool - saw it advertised but did not pay attention. Great content/information as well as the app press decapping video. Thanks
Good stuff! 👀 I got my APP a few weeks back and I've ran thousands of 45 and 223 brass through it using a Universal decapping die. Since I don't load 9mm (yet, lol), I've only had to bulge bust a few of my 45's that wouldn't quite fit in my case gauge or pass the plunk test, so I just used my Classic Turret for those. It's great not having to disassemble the entire cartridge. I also got the swage kit for 223, but I didn't have very good luck. Decided to go with a Dillon Super swager instead. Liked and subbed! 👍
Glad to know on the swage kit. I actually ordered that kit and the Lee universal decapper to see if I can solve that decapping issue with my Lyman decapper. I'm planning to do a swaging video on .223. I'm hoping it works. I've had several emails on it so I figured I'd give it a try. Today I'm still cutting the crimps out with the RCBS military crimp removal tool.
@@ringsteeltv3179 Yeah, Andy79Z28 did a video on the swage kit and had the same issues I did. You may already have one, but get the Ballistictools go-no-go gauge for 223. That will tell you right away if the swager is working. Looking forward to your test!
I also got the APP with the bulge buster, bullet sizer (and bushings) and the primer pocket swager recently. I have swaged a pile (800+) of converted military 556 whisper cases with little or no issues. Just check thru your setup, it is working great for me.
Greg Swift No I did not but have since loaded a bunch. I installed the primers with a hand primer tool (old Lee hand prime) and the “feel” was good, not too loose and not too tight.
@@beginning-reloading Primer Pocket go/no-go gauge will not give you good indication after swaging. Swaging creates a bevel, cannot really expand the pocket itself with the forces we're working with. Bevel helps guide the primer into the pocket...
9 mm a tapered case. That's the reason they don't offer a bulge busting kit for it. They only offer both busting kits for straight wall cases. You run a paper case through Bulls buster you're only running it through at one diameter taper case is multiple diameters. So if you could find something it was the proper base diameter where the bulge is on a 9 mm it possibly could work but it's gonna be iffy at best because you could be slightly out of spec a few thousands away and you're still gonna be a few thousands out of spec after running through the bulge buster.
100% this. The taper case makes it so your can only properly size the base of the cartridge is with a roll sizer.
I had an issue with bulged cases on my 38 supercomp, seems the barrel may have been rechambered for 9x23 before I got it, bulged a lot of cases at the base which would not fit in the new 38super barrel, all I did was grind the bottom from a lee 38 super sizing die so it would size right down almost to the rim, load it in the dillion xl650, lube and ran the cases through the stations and loaded rounds normally, then once all the cases were debulged and loaded put the dillion sizing die back in and never had another issue.
For anyone that needs full size brass we offer roll size brass by the bucket we offer a really good price if you send in your brass to be roll sized
The rim is larger than the maximum allowed base dimension. Rollsizing is a much better option.
I just tried this set up on my Lee app press that I received today. New Lee Makarov Factory Crimp Die. I just pushed through two empty 9mm cases, lubed with synthetic motor oil. Took a lot of force to get them through, much more than what I expected or what force you seem to be exerting in your video. Not sure this will actually be a workable solution. Could be the newer Lee Makarov Factory Crimp Dies have a smaller diameter carbide ring, mine is measuring 0.385.
Bartley,
Just curious if you can measure both the rim diameter and web area just in front of the rim before and after resizing. My after sizing diameter was .389 but includes springback. My carbide ring measures .3845 so basically the same as yours. I dont think I would use oil. If I were to use any lube you would have much better luck with wax, either Imperial Sizing Die Wax or Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. Oils cant compress and in much the same way case shoulders can dimple when using oil in sizing bottleneck cases I think it's possible oil could hydrolock in the front crevice of the buldge causing additional pressure. No lube is required with carbide and I dont run any in my process or the video. I'm assuming you clean and size the brass prior to running them through the buldge buster as per the instructions. If not I would be sure to start there. Let me know how it goes.
@@ringsteeltv3179 My after sizing diameter was .387. Of course I haven't even read the instructions yet, so I did not size before. Thanks for the tip on the oil, had not really though that would be an issue. When sizing, I normally use lanolin with alcohol mix. I normally reload on a Loadmaster and have had very good luck with it, though there was a steep learning curve. I will post back after doing a good read of the instructions and complete informed setup.
I will bet money once you resize first you will be good to go. You should resize after also as the 9mm is slightly different than most straight walled cases and has a slight taper that is lost during the buldge busting process. Since you are using a loadmaster I'm assuming you will resize as part of that progressive process anyway. Lee kind of hides the resize fact in the instructions. I believe it simply says something like "use a resized case or fully loaded ammunition." towards the end of the instructions vs at the beginning where is would be most helpful. Happy shooting!
@@ringsteeltv3179 Thanks for all the help. I have run about 300 cases and 90 loaded 9mm rounds through the Makarov FCD with the LEE app press. I ended up lubing with my lanolin/alcohol mix, and making a significantly longer handle, about 18" additional length. It is only a temporary handle extension, slips over the existing after taking off the plastic red knob, but it does allow for significantly more leverage and smoother operation. The longer handle extension allows me to better control the force exerted on the case/round and it is being pushed through the Makarov FCD to bulge bust. I did not resize prior to running through the FCD, maybe that would help but I am trying to reduce the effort and time to reload while still producing quality reloads. And I did try sizing on the APP press before I read that you need to use the standard shell holder or you can damage the rim on some cases. I damages about 20 before I went back and discovered this little tidbit that the pas through shell holders should not be used for resizing. Obviously more to it than one would initially think. I will continue my pursuit in an effort to determine the most effective ways to incorporate the LEE APP press into my reloading regiment. Be Happy! And again thanks for the excellent video!
a power case feeder that would feed the cases upside down would make this an option to a rollsizer......
O h man I need to get rid if my factory Glock barrel
Where can I get that Plate you have the Press mounted on? Great Video by the way.
Timmor Dragon that’s a Lee brand mounting plate.
What's the model of the lee press your using
Where can I find one for 9mm all I can find is from 10mm and up ?
I am buying the Lee 1000 press. Do I need this too to complete case processing?
Great video!
I thought the Lee 9mm Luger factory crimp die removed brass bulge. What is the purpose of using 9mm Makarov ?
Factory crimp die removes the bell on the case mouth that is created by the powder thru expanding die. The 9mm Makarov die is being used to remove bulges towards the head of the case that were created by shooting 9mm in a Glock which has a unsupported chamber area that tends to cause a bulge on one side of the case near the case head. The factory crimp die doesn't touch the case down that low. The 9mm brass is being pushed completely thru a 9mm Makarov die just to remove that bulge from shooting 9mm in a Glock with a factory barrel. Aftermarket Glock barrels usually don't have that issue as they have a fully supported chamber like most guns.
I appreciate the detailed response. I always understood the FCD reshaped brass fully.
So many opinions online with sometime contradicting information. Thank you
Have you figured out a way to prime cases with the APP? I don’t really want to buy the ACP and APP.
Question:
What order do you prep brass using this. Size first or after bulge busting?
Great video! Btw
LedGuitar, go take a look torwards the end of this video as I've recently changed my reloading process for 9mm. ruclips.net/video/2Wl_QxR_oJU/видео.html I will be doing a new video soon with the entire "new" process. To answer your question you must Bulge Bust first then resize after. The 9mm has a slight taper from the base to the top of the case that needs to be reintroduced after bulge busting.
Just watched the other video. Great info. Sorry to hear about the issue. Glad ur ok.
I’ve been a prs rifle reloaded for a while now, but just started with pistol. Im loading 9mm and some of the bases of the cartridge it seems are bulged. It’s range brass. That’s why I was looking into bulge busting. I have like 300 rds loaded that stick up out of my go gauge a bit, and don’t pass plunk in the gauge but DO pass plunk in multiple barrels. The chamber fine in my pistols too. Is this dangerous? Thanks in advance
Will you be able to push loaded rounds through the bulge buster? I presume you would, but would like your thoughts on it.
I hoot .40 in IPSC (USPSA) and have pushed thousands through the old bulge buster kit, but the inserting and removing get extremely tedious and pushing the round through on the up stroke is very tiring and the cause of many blisters on my hands.
Thanks for a great review.
You can bulge bust loaded rounds per Lee, however the 9mm round has a slight taper which im unsure is affected if doing loaded rounds.
Now that they have the 9mm undersized die I find I can cut out this step.
Confused as hell here....
It looks like you need this particular press and that the Makerov FSD allows the case to go all the way through it. Unlike any sizing die I have ever seen.
Also completely unfamiliar with the bulge buster parts you show.
*** HOW WOULD I SET THIS UP ON A NORMAL SINGLE STAGE PRESS??
Bonjour quel outil utiliser vous pour recalibrer les douilles de 9 para
Hey, can you give me th part numbers for this? I have a Full length sizing die for 9mm Makarov and the APP press. Thanks
Hi, which 9mm Makarov crimp die should I use the all-steel or the Carbide?
Carbide
Can this process be used on completed cartridges that are bulged?
yes i do it all the time
Wont bulge busting 9mm remove the rim? Wont this affect feeding in guns? Extractor may not have enough rim to grip.
This is a great question and one that required me to go back and take some measurements. The quick answer is that I've had zero issues with the rim being damaged in any way. I've also not experienced any feeding issues through the 4 different pistols I load for and various friends guns that have shot my ammo. Prior to bulge busting I did have feeding issues with bulged cases.
The long answer is I just took some measurements of about 20 case rim’s prior to bulge busting and after to understand what is going on with the rim. Before I bulge bust I get a rim diameter measurement of anywhere from .389-.393 depending on brand. On bulged cases I get a measurement of greater than .395 in what I’m calling the web area that is at the base of the case in front of the rim. On cases that are not bulged the diameter is almost always the same as the rim diameter. I ran these 20 through the bulge buster and rechecked the measurements. Both the web area and the rim measure .389 after running through the bulge buster. It’s clear some sizing is happening of the case rim on anything larger than .389. I can see that the rim is being sized as the rim is shiny now. I’ve never thought to look at this before. I also checked for burrs or any damage in any way to the rim and see nothing other than a change in measurement. The 9mm Luger has a slight chamfer on the back of the rim which probably helps with the stresses of bulge busting. I have a box of new Herter’s 9mm and many measured .389 out of the box so even new ammo is already at the bulge busted size out of the box. For this reason I don’t think you would see any extraction issues with bulge busted cases. For the record I have had an occasion that a case is EXTREMELY hard to push through. Maybe 1 in a hundred and I suspect now this is due to a rim diameter that is well outside of spec.
It think this is why Lee recommended the Makarov die originally as it has slightly more room for the rim. I think Lee stopped recommending the Makarov as the carbide ring was getting damaged in some cases. I think it’s possible that depending on manufacturing tolerances for this carbide ring that some could have been sizing much more than my sample and causing either a cracked ring or damaged rim. I’m only speculating as I don’t know what Lee’s position is on it. As reference, Redding also makes a die for bulge busting that works in the same way. It is called the Redding GRX which I believe stands for Redding Glock Prescription as this is mainly seen in Glock fired brass. I believe you could use the Redding Die in the same way as I've done in this video but don't know for sure. I do think in either case it is important to resize the case after the bulge busting as the 9mm is a tapered case. I do this on my Lee Pro 1000 after all this case prep is done as part of my loading process.
Thanks for your extremely good question. I hope I gave enough detail to answer your question. If there is interest I’m glad to post a quick video explaining all this with some measurements to show this.
Steve
Rim diameter is .394", body starts with .391 based on SAAMI dimensions. I'm guessing the sizing ring is set up to the rim diameter. Lee should come up with something like a primer pocket swager where brass is pushed inside a FL die with taper, get rid of the bulge, then push it out with a rod...
I tried for 2 hours to put those two solid steel base plates to go together and mount to my bench with no success.I had to stop trying before I lost my sanity
Do I still need to,bulge bust if the cartridge goes in and out of the case gauge easily after decapping and sizing?
Thanks
No not at all. If the case sits flush with the top of the guage and drops easily then no. This will only apply to auto pistols that have unsupported chambers like the Glocks. If you pick up random range brass you could separate out the ones that do not fit the guage and discard.
@@ringsteeltv3179 Thanks for the info.
I'm guessing with the lee app press, the bulge buster kit isn't even needed. Just the crimp die.
The only item from the kit you need is the plunger that pushes it through the crimp die.
I spoke to a guy last night that uses the plunger from a bullet sizing kit, and pushes them through upside down with no issues
First time seeing this press; seems much faster than my Lee C-press. As for the Bulge Buster... I've found out through many 9mm rounds not going into battery, that the standard die set does not resize the bottom of the case (where the bulge forms). Have you (or anyone in the comments) ever used the 9mm-U die to solve this problem? The U-die is an undersize die which undersizes the brass by .1000th". Would this solve the same problem that the bulge buster aims to fix?
.1000th" really ???? reloading info on ut00b is sketchy at best ......
I am new to reloading and want to get the APP. I picked up mixed range brass 9mm and wanted to bulge bust them. I have the full die set to resize after. Would the NEW APP bulge busting kit with a Makarov Die work the same?
Which Makarov die do I need to use?
ok so you can bugle bust 9mm you just need the makarov die to use it.
🤔👍🇺🇲
I Have about 1k rounds of 40 from my glock to bust. And another 600 or so in 9mm. I guess i need a takarov die.. Thanks
Can you use a 9 mm luger die?
@@jasontwolford nope
Can you use a 9mm luger die for this?
Negative