What's That Horrible Knocking Sound? Removing And Dissecting A Blown Up 1974 Dodge 318
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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I'll be honest, I didn't know this was even possible. Last time I saw it, this was a great running and driving truck. Now? Not so much. I'm not sure where all of the oil that was in this engine went, but I'm sure I know what happened afterward...nothing good.
I'd go with option one, the 40 over 318. easiest of all to do and more in keeping with originality. Good luck.
You have that 318 and the top end off the blown engine. #1 sounds like the shortest path.
My vote is use the 318 block and clean up the heads on the bad engine so you can use them. Keep it as close to OG looking as you can.
That seems to be the consensus! I would definitely have to use the heads. I haven’t actually bothered pulling and checking them over yet…
Probably be easiest to go with option 1 the 40 over 318. Either way can't wait to see more of this truck hopefully it sticks around. I always liked the 70s dodge 4x4 trucks especially with a np435 and part time 4x4
I know. It’s such a great combination of features on this one. Long bed for maximum garbage collection, extended cab for extra space for children and such, 4x4 but part time for capability but decent “mileage,” light springs for a surprisingly nice ride. Option one is absolutely easiest. Just not sure if I should do it and get the truck on the road, or try to use this as an opportunity to do something fancier.
"Let's get the fluids out. Well, fluid."
I have 2 friends with broken 318 cranks, both as different applications and useage as you could imagine. The first (back in the '90s) was a '65 Belvedere 2dr htp 318 Poly STEEL crank that broke yet ran fine, just knocked bad and shook/vibrated the whole car. It was cracked in the rear main (the widest one!) and would turn a 1/4 round like your example. It was a clean little old lady car and wasn't abused ever until my friend got it and he wasn't brutal with it at all. The second one was a 1992 Dakota 5.2L Magnum (first year!) purchased new by my friend, a dealership mechanic. He modified and raced his truck, with MoPar Perf cam, headers, PCM, rockers, intake manifold, etc. Thrashed it for years and then it broke, I'm assuming at a rod throw, because the motor shut down and the starter only works a few rear cylinders, and no distributor movement. Ironically, the first (Belvedere owner) guy later bought a 1972 Newport 400 V8, in mint condition but skipping horribly. The engine had thrown 2 rods, breaking the camshaft and rendering the last 4 cylinders dead but the distributor and the first 8 cam lobes turned, so it was a runner still!! Haha
Wow… the only thing approaching anything like those failures that I’ve seen was a 3.1 Chevy cam broken in half. That was a good one. About half of the valves still moved.
Robust indeed. They should of been Magnessium, dry sump, areo engines!!!
I’ve got a 95 crusty 5.2 with an exhaust manifold leak. The bolts look like pencil erasers now-no trace of a hex anymore. How would I get them off?
Ugh… a welder, and a prayer, basically. But if it’s really that bad… you may just have to jump to drilling them out and doing inserts.
Disconnect the battery. Remove the fuel tank, glass and any other , deemed items, worthy of saving. And pets, children and innocent bystanders. Fill the intake manifold with C two ; H two. Test first, numerous times a safe / fail safe , static resistant spark. Use and duck, in your below earth bunker. Retrieve parts and enjoy. Hope this helps.
Regards,
I once had a pumpkin orange '75 Super Beetle. That was until I tried to use all of its not so super 42 horsepower to pass a truck on a two lane highway. There was a noticeable kaboom sound, followed by an annoying rattle after that. I don't work on Beetles, so I drove it to a well known shop that only works on Beetles. The mechanic called me and said that he found the problem. The crankshaft is broken in two! I asked him if that is a common problem. He said it was the first one he saw in his 40 years of fixing Beetles. Wow! Cool! I'm the greatest!!!
Man! You have all kinds of talents! I really liked my ‘75 Beetle. It was really fun to about 35 MPH - there is something really satisfying about using every single horsepower available all the time.
If you ever need a hand, I am a trained army mechanic and mud is fun! Let me know and it will be just like the Army days.
If you haven't done it already, i have a 74?or 75? 360 with what I was told was about 75,000 miles on it when I bought it that will be coming out of our sweptline soon. It would be a perfect fit.I am in salem.
We put a big block in it in a later video! I could probably dream up another use for a low mileage 360 sooner or later though.
The guy that bought the truck in the first place. Rule#2 take it to a mechanic for a once over.
Option 1-B: put it the scrap pile with the broken motor…
No to cummins...I was thinking big block.
Funny, that’s where we’re going! Eventually…
Hello, do they run on coal? Cunnings or what ever.
Cheers.
Mr. Dodge Dead . I would rather be in a freezing Tundra, than there . I will add , one lives at 30 degrees South. So idiot me, may regret, such a caviler comment!!! No matches, fire wood , food , old newspapers to read and an anomalies abounding. Such as a T34 tank, with a V 12 inverted motor in it. No bullets to end the ordeal and a nutty friend, that looks odd!!! I hope it all works out. Comment at 4.42. Remember the wave things, 90 ft. high!!!
Ok 🤣
The 5.2 would be a good engine for the club cab!
I've always found no matter what size drain bucket antifreeze always misses it
Isn’t that amazing? I’ve found exactly the same thing
2 belt alt 😂pulley use 2 belt water fsn pulley 3 pulley on crank PS on smaller día Grove Brackets as OEM 1 belt line up. PS with bit luck no sqeal le o le o.. Also can change alt put to one grove but beware two maybe 3 different!! Believe bit heavier machine grove face is 68 back pump n house. B RB ditto. My self prefer non PZ shirt depth pulleys n can nose 5 blade offset fan! I have tendency to hide this stuff really well..
I’m sorry, I have absolutely zero idea what you just said.
Just out of curiosity since you mentioned the 4.7liter…and my curiosity lol, what’s your opinion of those? I know they had their problems and bad reputation from early on, but did they end up being a solid option later in their run?
My basic opinion is that they are complete and total garbage, which is unfortunate because they make pretty decent power. In the later 2000s Chrysler may have made some improvements, because I never saw those trucks as much. Well, now that I think of it, a friend has an ‘06 or ‘07 3.7 (the same engine minus two holes) and it has had weird intermittent smoking problems… My brother had an ‘04 Dakota with a 4.7 and it had a coolant consumption and occasional overheating problem for a long time, which through bad ring seal eventually became an oil consumption problem. Let’s just say he wasn’t on top of checking the oil… so that one met its demise. There are plenty of them on the road that haven’t had problems - in fact I’ve heard lots of stories of them at 200K+ and still going strong. And that’s great, but what I’ve seen is enough to make me never, ever buy one.
I like the 360 option. My cousin did that with his 65 and it turned out to be a great and much more useful truck with all that power.
Um no oil and 1 blue valve cover? Bound to go boom. I just found a guy with loads of '70's dodge trucks and Ramchargers. Got a set of step side fenders. A real nice guy but like to paint BB mopar engines, John Deer green or as he calls it "grabber green".
Well I don’t know about all that. Lol. Anything with no oil is bound to go boom. It has one blue valve cover because the friend I got it from had pulled, painted, and resealed the oil pan and the one obviously leaking valve cover (among many other repairs.) It was full of clean, brand new oil when I bought it. When I bought it the second time, the clean, brand new oil was magically gone - with no obvious source of oil loss. It had been driven to work for three days. Hence the mystery… I’ve seen a good few Mopar engines painted green. It could be worse, it could be purple!
I know what you can do. Trade it even up with me for a 2016 Dodge dart. I'm right down the road. Well maybe not right down the road maybe even across the country diagonal. South Florida. It's warm down her. . Think about it. Might be a good trade. Oh the dart looses antifreeze after couple days not sure where.
You had me in the first half, not gonna lie.
Option 1
Seems to be the winner. Haha.
Haha I don’t even bother trying the petcocks on the radiator any more I just go straight for the lower hose to waterpump as you did there - ya huge mess
Fwiw, I have had good luck with the ultra grey sealant, just takes a day or two to fully cure
My guess is that buddy geared down to first at about 40 mph
Yep the ultra gray is definitely good stuff too. I had another totally clogged petcock the other day, but stabbing it with a pick worked. Haha. We were kinda thinking the same thing…
Magnum running the factory efi and a/c
You are right. A 440 is a very bad idea. That is why I think you really need to do it.
440 is a bad idea. The Dana 44f will bend. I bent two before I switched to a Dana 60.
And if you go 360 you need a different flywheel.
It was a joke.
Hey boss, any tips on removing a 318 from a 1984 D150?
I did a video some time ago about how to remove the drivetrain from a classic Mopar. It was a slant six in a car, but the basic principles are all the same. I also removed that one with the transmission, but I covered the differences there as well I believe. Honestly, it’s very straightforward. Drain the fluids and remove oil filter (remove coolant block drains if you can, to avoid a huge mess later.) remove rad and fan shroud. Remove engine accessories and hoses. Unhook exhaust. Unbolt 3/4” nuts holding engine mounts to the cradle. Disconnect the engine from the transmission (if auto, four torque converter bolts accessed by removing rock guard at the bottom of the bellhousing, then remove starter and bellhousing bolts - if manual, starter and bellhousing,) attach cherry picker with lift plate or chain, support the transmission somehow, and out she comes. If you keep your picker low enough to the engine, you won’t need to remove the hood. Your mileage may vary on that.
225 Slant six with a 2 bll carb and headers . Good enough. They have decent power .
I like it. I just got a slant six donor too… although it’s more of a slant five currently.
@@DeadDodgeGarageI'm a fan of the slant 6, so ...I won't apologize for "leaning" that way😁
I have a ‘68 D100 with 318 one-piece crank! Lol
I definitely prefer the one piece type crank to the two piece 😅
Jaimie, it depends you are going to sell it or keep it. It your intentions are to sell it, just piece something together. If you are going to keep it, make it bad ass.
We put a 383 in this truck, and did a video on it a few months ago!
@@DeadDodgeGarage I guess I didn’t pay attention to the date, lmao
Definitely go with option #1. Take the heads and intake off of the bad motor and swap them over to that other block and the rest should be easy-peasy. ;-)
I did that! But before I could install the engine, I ended up selling the truck back to my friend David, and in a more recent video, we put a 383 in it for some reason.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Can't fault that, I guess. 🤣
I just realized how old the video was. I just subscribed to your channel. I got some binge watching to do to get up to speed.
Toyota gray sealant is the better Stuff no joke not the stuff from the auto part store
No question that’s good stuff. But Right Stuff has worked great for me for years now.
Crank made fronm poor crap chevy sirob lol. Lol.
The world’s best crankshaft isn’t going to fair very well with no oil.
Grandfathers 98 truck with 5.2 did same thing in same place. First I had seen it. Sypher F
Huh! That’s interesting. Did it also happen to run out of oil?
yes actually but not as low as this was. Both instances scream sabotage!
Red ♥️🍒❤360❤😅
Dear dear prudence😂
Is it possible that someone did a bait and switch?
There was no funny business on the part of the sellers - but possibly on the part of their family. Unsure.
You forgot LS swap it which everyone says to do to everything it seems! LOL. Seriously, would love to see the magnum/5speed swap in this one. BTW, I know I am late to this vote, just watching the older videos.
Just put A318 back in it it's the easiest choice no external balancing and a good set ahead of us maybe a purple shaft 430 4:50 PM along with a set of 340 Springs then you've already got the other parts and it'll be perfect thank you
The 318 will be going in stock. Not everything is a hot rod - I’m actually planning to go back to factory manifold, valve covers, etc. Some day I will build a 318 for performance… But maybe a 273 first.
@@DeadDodgeGarage What!!!!No. Not at 7 to 1? That is against Gussoline!!!
Go with the 40 over 318.
You mentioned gas mileage, put a 273 in it ...
Kind of funny, in the comments on my 273 video earlier this week (I’m putting one in a ‘67 Valiant for exactly that reason,) a guy related a tale of putting one in a 70s 4x4 club cab, and everyone told him that it wouldn’t work and would get horrible fuel economy because the engine was too small. It didn’t - it got like 15+. Incredible.
I'm in camp "put in a 440!" Cuz that's what is going into my 83 d150 shortbox 413 motorhome engine with aluminum top end
I'm curious about the bellhousing. 80s 3/4 ton Dodges with the NP 435 had an 11" clutch bellhousing where the flywheel fit into a slot machined into the bellhousing. The only way to separate the engine from the transmission is to pull the transmission, remove the clutch, unbolt the flywheel and drop the flywheel out of the bottom of the bellhousing. Only then, can the engine be separated from the bellhousing.
You are not the first person to ask this, and I understand the thinking, but these are not like those humongous and insanely heavy cast iron units. I’ve been there, learned that - on a seized 318, so just about the hardest way possible. Although on the ones I have dealt with, the bell could be unbolted, slid rearward slightly, and lifted off around the clutch. This is a standard open bellhousing similar to the car four speed units. I am fairly certain I showed it in the video after engine removal, but maybe I didn’t. Are you sure the old cast iron style continued into the 80s? I have only seen it in 60s trucks.
@DeadDodgeGarage did one on an 82 and one on an 85. The 82 was a 318 2wd and the 85 was a 360 4wd.
Very interesting. I’m sure I’ll come across one eventually.
Option 1
Do up the magnum. Bore.30 over and carb it. Nice torque cam and viola.. .
Magnum
I'd use the 40 0ver 318 or find another good running 318 from something else at a salvage yard or somewhere. 👍
I saw this again for the very first time and wondered what became of this truck. Did I sleep through it's resurrection or is it still on the to do list😅
Still here… still engineless… we’re putting in a 383, which is currently on the run stand at Rocket
@@DeadDodgeGarage oh fun. That's a beefy upgrade.
Must be a '74 judging by the grille and NP 205.
Yep
Wish they'd a" left the divorced 205 in them😢
Do you live in the Rainforest ? I hardly see a dry video from DDG & I'm thankful for sunshine where I live. Lol
I’m not in the rain forest, but it’s not far away… This place gets a whole lot of it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Can't imagine the amount of depression with rain 5 out of 7 days . I'm a new subscriber & enjoy your channel. Keep up the hard work and cool content.
@@ronaldrey8474 Take something. Not having a go.
I have seen this 5 times in 48yrs of the shop. Cast cranks are junk period. But many live a long happy life with oil and love. Now if you want to snap another here is how you do it. Remove oil, fire up, Rev high and drop clutch on a solid surface. Snap. Yup its that easy. Did I mention cast cranks are junk. Lastly oil is good. I see your environmentally friendly orrrrrr is that mentally friendly. It's all good just don't look at that antifreeze and oil spot. Oh what oil. As for the bearing being kinda spun that happened after the crank snapped the crank grabbed it and gave it a spin. Thus removing the tangs. Again seen thus before. Mostly in trucks with 4 speeds to be honest once in a dart. Neutral drop from reversing. You know reverse go fast hit drive and floor it. Dumb asss burnout. Lastly I could have called or texted so why am I doing this. Just because I can damit.
Yep that’s what I’m figuring happened here. Oil gone, bye bye. Probably a little rattly but still moving, because… Mopar. One good clutch drop by an inexpert driver… done for. I know what you’re saying. They’re junk for making 400+ HP, so in your world they have no value. In a stock power application, they’re just fine. As long as they have oil 😅
@@DeadDodgeGarage I added more because that's how my ADD brain works lol. Oil is optional ask my last girlfriend.
@@Roosters_Restos I'm not gonna do that 🤣
360 in the engine bay, 4.7 in the bed.
And then we kick it out at the scrapyard, right?
My vote is whatever you want, as long as you record it, warts and all. (I'm catching up on videos.). Cheers and Happy New Year!🎉👍
Oh it’s happening. Haha.
That's one dead dodge
Alright, *that* one definitely was…
Numero uno
Good lord, that thing must've seen north of 7 grand. I'm placing my vote for a Magnum swap.
Oh, that soup looked delicious.
Mrs. Jamie makes some damn fine soup! I’m surprised, but most votes have been for the LA 318. It’s certainly the easier job for me - but I really need to Magnum swap something.
And I wanted that truck.
It’s still here! I have rebuilt an engine and haven’t had a chance to install it yet.
Too bad it wasn't a late 60s 318, the steel forged crank would have never broken;)
No, probably not - but it would probably be ruined by now anyway. Instead of breaking it would’ve kept going with no oil long enough to destroy all of the journals…
@@DeadDodgeGarage I actually have a 69 318 steel forged crank engine myself. I wanted to do a mild build to replace my stock rebuilt 360 in my 73 W200 with a 4 speed. What's your opinion on that, is it worth rebuilding and replacing my stock 360?......What I'm looking for is an engine that's bulletproof, I want to work it because it's a truck, and off road it time to time, but want it to have a little more HP and torque compared to stock specs.
@@dantheadventureman I have heard old timers say that the 318 is a much better truck engine. I don't know why they say this, because...torque. Haha. The forged crank sounds like a good plan for strength and longevity, but people have been doing extreme things with 360s (all cast cranks) for a long time with success too. As long as you keep oil in the thing, keep the revs below stratospheric levels and the horsepower well south of 500 HP, the cast crank in the 360 is going to last a long time.
You can definitely build that 318 to make some power, but you need to be careful with cam selection. Avoid the temptation to go big or go home, because you will be rewarded with an engine that doesn't work downstairs where you really, really need it in a truck. I too have a forged 318 crank in my collection of spare parts (although it's still sitting in a poly 318 engine at present) and have every intention of basing a build around it at some point in the future.
The forged crank is definitely closer to bulletproof. With careful parts selection, you can make a 318 that works very well. I would just be wary of giving up usable hauling torque to get there.
Dead Dodge Garage - He's just as much of a hack as you! (Pulling the truck back with a Power Wagon to pull an engine)
Damn right!
I debated putting a modern Hemi in my club cad with the NP435 but figured the granny gear would make it weird.
I finally got the big block bell housing and have a running 440 (with a .510/.510 cam) soooo. Probably not a good truck motor either. 😬
That might be a little big 😅 Dave who I first got this truck from in July was teasing me with a big block 435 bell. I do have a perfectly good 361 sitting around…
I'd love to have a club cab. You should do a 360 or another 318
Option 1 and leave the 4 speed!! Yup he's got some bumps and bangs, but in Michigan that old truck would be well liked. Not many of those around here anymore!!
Oh yeah. The only reason I mentioned the five speed possibility was in case of magnum swap. Imagine the highway cruising capabilities… if it gets the original type 318, it definitely keeps the four speed.
Hey ship the crank to the Pakistani machine shop, they'll weld it up, cut it 10-10 and ship it back good as new!
I’m sure you’re right. Haha. Really if 318s weren’t still growing on trees (I have five more cores elsewhere) I could absolutely fix this one. I shouldn’t say that it’s too bad to save, because it absolutely isn’t. It’s too bad to be *worth* saving. Line bore, repair caps, two new rods, etc
FWIW, the 435 bellhousing doesn't clear the flywheel. That's why it was a struggle to remove.
You have to pull the trans off of the bellhousing, pull the engine out with the bellhousing attached. You can force it, but that's not the way it was meant to go. Flywheel comes out the bottom.
Incorrect in this application. You are thinking of the earlier style bell housing which wraps around the flywheel. Been there, done that, and would prefer to never do it again... In that setup, there is no forcing it. The hole is much, much smaller than the flywheel. And yes, on those trucks, the bell has to be removed with the engine.
This one was a struggle to remove because the crankshaft was broken in two pieces, and the rear piece (attached to the clutch assembly) was going crooked instead of sliding straight out as it should. In the video, during the shot in which I explain this on camera, you can see daylight behind the flywheel because on that side it was past the bell housing flange. On the other side, the rear/engine side face was 1/4" *inside* of the bellhousing flange. Very not good.
Go with the Magnum!!! I want to see how you do your wiring harness!
Either or...
The 0.040 over 318 will need rust removal from the bores just to get the pistons out for a proper rehone.
Then rolling the dice on the flat tappet cam.
-or-
Go 5.2 Magnum.
Actually the rust isn’t really what it looks like. I can wipe the residue away by hand. Bores seem to look very good. There’s no horrible pitting or buildup. But I think I’d probably tear it down anyway. It’s kind of full of shop dirt and grime at this point. And the cam… well, someone was running Magnum roller rockers on it. Long story, but at the end I wouldn’t be using that anyway.
The 'INTRO' to this video is up there in the top drawer of any found in this genre.
Okay? Okay!
Awe man, thanks! I really liked the intro but according to analytics data, many people were either skipping it or tuning out entirely while it rolled. I went to a shorter one for a bit and then eliminated it entirely, other than the bumpers and things I’ll use at the beginning of some videos.
Option 1 of course.
Cheerz!
Nice intro 😂
I kinda liked it. Lol. No one else did apparently
Man i have never seen a broke crank like that in a 318. I would say go with option 1 and use the heads off the old 318 I would think it would save on time and money.
Yep, that would be the plan. I think that’s the way I’m going to go.
40 over all day
That seems to be the consensus, except for the one guy that said do the Hemi. Haha. I’m glad people don’t want to see me suffer but really expected the Magnum to win! Interesting stuff.
Slant 6? Lol
I like the way you think! Holy shit, actually, I just got a slant six (still in a car,) *and* I think I have a spare slant bellhousing for the NP435! But… it would be very poopless. Lol.
I love a spicy breakfast 👍
I will buy the truck. You need to deliver it to Macon GA USA.
Well, I’m not saying no, but it’s $1900 in fuel alone, plus a couple hotels, food along the way, taking two weeks off of work, and then there’s whatever I would sell the truck for 😅
I'd pull crank polish or cut another crank resize rods and back together bet the caps and block are fine
Don’t like that mains spun and locating slots for main bearing tangs are damaged. Yes, it could definitely be repaired. I have way too many core 318s that aren’t this bad (and have cranks in one piece) for it to be worth it.
As always - another great video! So if you drove to Lilliwaup along the 101 loop (those nice views you saw), what was the Cowlitz thing you saw? Cowlitz Flow House or something? The only Cowlitz I know is the river that is much farther south than where you might have gone from Aberdeen or Oly. But maybe I have something to learn about geography, or maybe you took the long way because there's a place on the Cowlitz that has the best ice cream cones. Speaking of ice cream, have you been to Quilcene in the past few years? There's a store there with great ice cream, it might be locally made from local cows. Or maybe not.
No I just can’t read. Lol. It’s the Cushman #2 Flowhouse / Powerhouse - part of the Tacoma Power system.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Ahhh, of course! I remember that place! I have a great memory of my dad taking me on a 2-night backpacking trip and we started near Cushman. I remember complaining a lot because we kept having to go uphill. My dad was not happy with me. But overall my memory of it is good.
One of your best videos of all time!
Oil usually ends up in a different space / time continuum , well thats where all mine seems to go as ive never found where it goes either
That definitely seems to be what's going on here...
That’s right! Put that Power Wagon to work!
'Thats bad'. Thank you Capt. Obvious😂😂😂
Just one of many services I offer!
Since it's an Clubcab it should have a 3/4 ton frame no matter what.
Ditto the spicy breakfast.
Use the 318 short block.
You could install a NP 445(syncro first) trans
Oh really? The notable difference would be frame rail height, yes? I have a 100 and a 200 here to compare to. The running gear is absolutely 100, which prior to this truck I did not know could be found under a club cab long bed. Interesting stuff. Oh yeah, Dan was filling me in on the NP445. I’m not sure where I would find one - and to be honest I’m pretty ok with the 435. Even if this one is a little goofy when it comes to finding third gear… pobody’s nerfect.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Yes frame rail height. The 445 has the same gearing as an NV 4500 just no fifth OD. I got one out of a '73 W100 years ago. Put it in a 4x4 crewcab behind a motor home 440.
It lived. Out lived the truck in fact.
That is amazing, at least you have some new paper weights. LA 318 is the easiest swap, or maybe the magnum with a carb.
Door stop too! The reasoning behind Magnum swap would specifically be to make the factory EFI guide video I've been planning (and teasing) for about a year now. The LA engine is definitely easy mode, and it seems to be what the people want to see, so I think that's the way I'm going.
Option number 1...
Option 1 seems appropriate. I'm waiting to see the hemi comment.
Have had a vote for the 5.7 Hemi, none for 426 yet 😅
Thanks Jamie
The 318 is the right engine for it IMHO.
Agreed - it definitely is.
I love the intro!
(In Jamie voice) Oooooooh! An introoo!
🤣 ok, I might have to change the beginning of the intro to that. I was a little worried that the transition was a little quick so wanted to make it obvious that’s what it was. Today on DDG, Noah gets a writing credit
May I respectfully suggest a 350 for reliability?
Okay,, since you're being THAT guy,,, I will be that OTHER guy, and tell you to refer back to his comments about the truck being 5 luggey and 1/2 ton springey for a Cummins,, so, a 350 isn't quite as heavy as a Cummins,,, but even in the 58 Plymouths it was still big block material and so, it would be similar to the 440 in economy and still heavier than the LA options 😉
@@patrickwayne3701 OK then how about a 5.4 liter?😀
@@scottprato7800 you're making me remember that poster from college about Murphys Law.... about not arguing with idiots....
My poor baby
😭
It would be excellent content ...
Install the hemi !
It really would. Can hardly imagine… if such a thing as a sleeper even still exists, that would be it!
@@DeadDodgeGarage Hey man, me again from Indiana. Since you are scrapping the block, would you be willing to box up the main caps and send them out to me?? I have a 340 block that I was given because I am a pack rat of Mopar stuff,,, and it was missing 3 of it's caps... so,, yours would give me the extras I need to re-align hone this block back to serviceable condition.... of course, I will be happy to send you the appropriate number of dead presidents for your troubles...
@@patrickwayne3701 Sure! Was I supposed to find you a set, like, a year ago? Or was that someone else? As my daughter likes to say, I'm "a forgetting person." Email me at jamienoise@gmail.com and we'll work out details.
Someone got greedy with a 100 shot 🤣🤣
🤣 invisible nitrous kit
@@DeadDodgeGarage ghetto dyno and a friend with a bottle aimed under the hood 🤣🤣🤣😭
@@AverageJoeBuilds Never would thought of that. Genius, and i mean it!! Ring gap, retard of timing, not included.
I know its a bit more work but the 5.9 (with the electronics) would be a cool swap. I am slightly in favor of it over the 318 options - but only slightly. I think the magnum series engines get a lot less press than they deserve. My ONLY issue with that 5.9/EFI is that you would be complicating a very simple setup.... simple is cool too.
Right, it’s definitely a bit of complication that probably doesn’t belong in this simple-as-a-hammer truck. The main motivation would be to make good on a promise I made ages ago to do a Magnum swap and wire it as a guide. Also it would be cool, and make a bit of extra power over the old LA 318, not that power is really my main motivation in anything I do.
Had a nice beat. To it.
How bout a EV conversion? That would be fun! Lol
Whado I look like I’ma made of money ova here?