LIGHT MUD vs HEAVY MUD!!! (What's the difference?)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Have you ever wondered what the difference is between light and heavy mud? Did you even know there was a difference? This video will explain the different uses of a product that doesn't look much different on the shelf. I also do a tape pull test at the end of the video!
Tools I use often:
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I just want to tell you, im a car mechanic by trade so I consider myself reasonably handy, and just bought my first condo. I have exactly zero carpentry experience. I finished a wall and drywall/taped/mudded entirely based on what I learned from you. Keep kicking ass. You're really good at what you do, and you made me better because of it. This stuff is super informative while still being easy to digest by a newbie. Thank you!
I 100% agree. I'm about to tackle my media room soon and I feel confident after watching these videos from here.
Thank you Chris🙌
Me too! My confidence in planning a bathroom (no shower so no waterproofing :) remodel grows more with each video!
I just want to agree with this comment I was able to do my whole garage by myself thanks a bunch!!
anybody can help me im doing my room in about a month. i have multiple questions!
As homeowner / DIY type I have used both heavy and light compound over the years and after living in the house for decades I don't notice any difference in how one holds up over the other. OTOH, when moving full buckets around the house my back certainly knows which I prefer! The one thing I did notice is the light weight will grow mold if you leave a half bucket in the basement for a few years. That doesn't seem to happen with the old school mix. In all cases of "long term storage" I always trowel the surface smooth then add a 1/4" of water so it doesn't dry out. When I go to use it again I pour off the water and stir it up a bit. In some cases I have kept mud in the bucket for 5 years and it seems quite ok this way.
Thank you
@@jenniferbrown3782 get some personal experience and let me know how you make out.
Your drywall videos are the best on all of RUclips.
Thank you for experimenting for us. I will never use water on tape again. I always learn a better way here, plus you are funny. Added bonus.
Two tips
The heavyweight stuff can be thinned down with water. Makes it A LOT easier to spread. It actually goes on quite nice if you mix it well with water
The lightweight becomes a lot more durable if you add plaster of Paris to it. Not too much because it will start to harden too quickly and before you know it you're trying to spackle with play doh. But if you had just the right amount, you will find it has much more strength when hardened.
Some guys will even add a 20 or 45 minute dry spackle mix to it
Happy taping 😁👌
In the stated we have heavy (green bucket), light (blue bucket), and sometimes medium (purple bucket). Heavy is used for bedding the paper tape. Medium and/or light can be used for the finish coats or heavy for all three.
I probably spend more time watching your videos than I do working on the projects you're technically helping me with 🤦♀️😂
You will get caught up:) and then you can catch up on your project!
100% agree
I swear, but he's an awesome distraction 🤣🤣great job bro.
my girlfriend: how's the wall coming along?
me: watching one more video before next step.
my girlfriend: you said that yesterday!
...seriously, these videos are so informational AND entertaining. Thanks, Ben!
@@MrLostINla that's how my husband feels when he asks how the kids' bathroom ceiling is coming along 🤣🤣
Great side by side comparison! Started as a carpenter 44 years ago and am now a handyman. I have always used regular on first coat and then lightweight on finish coat coat mainly because it dries faster and sands easier and smoother. Love your videos.
I only use All Purpose heavy weight, even to top and skim. I tried switching to light weight for topping, but it’s too soft. It nicks and scratches way to easy. I run a Mirka palm sander shopvac system to sand, so I prefer the mud to dry harder. I’m also more confident it will stick to whatever I’m applying it too.
See that's weird because I've always said if I really hated someone I'd tell them to go tape and finish the whole wall with green all purpose knowing they're gonna try to sand it and it's gonna polish like a rock. I usually go all purpose first coat then mix hot mud with some all purpose on first coat then second with just the ez sand and then skim with light blue but everyone's different I guess
A lot of it depends on how you sand. We power sand with a Mirka, but if you hand sand All Purpose sucks!
you can use premix rpose to skim coat a wall?
@@KevinsDisobedience all purpose is more flexible than any other compound. I only use lightweight for touch ups, watered down. Marks, dings, etc.
Just hand taped a whole house with heavy and accidentally had one box of USG all purpose light near the end. Trippy stuff that seems full of air and didn't seem to go as far as the heavy, but a significant weight difference. I liked how it goes on beige and turns white as it dries. You're right about the glue smell too. Informative video as always! Thumbs up.
When wetting the tape I wondered] about adhesion since the tape was already saturated with water, so the glue in the mud couldn't penetrate and make the bond. Thanks for doing this test.
I’m not a huge commenter on RUclips vids, but I’ll make an exception for you!
Thank you for sharing all your hard earned wisdom! Not just on this video, but on all of them I’ve watched!
I just bought my first home and had to do a bunch of drywall work. Holy crap did it turn out better then when my dad and I just winged it doing some basement renos back in the dial up days haha.
Keep up the great work and keep the videos coming!
I definitely got something out. I love construction tests - best way to see the difference. I always suspected that wetting the paper is not good too, good to see it tested.
I tape with all purpose heavy here in Portland Oregon. If you are at all worried about the tape not adhering to a surface add a little glue water and it sticks to anything. For finish coats I use topping compound. I also carry setting type compound.
He explains that in other videos, it's a good tip, I tried it last week.
I’ve been doing drywall for about 7 months now and I couldn’t have done it without your videos. Thank you for your time and help.
Picked up my first Yellow box of the CDC taping joint compound when I was halfway thru the drywall portion of my home reno and it was a revelation. My taping skills are mediocre and continue to be but the heavier stuff is so forgiving.
I built a bedroom and watched your video before taping and mudding.
I bought a pail of all purpose heavy mud before watching and thought I might return it. But now that I see the results I'll be using the all purpose heavy mud!
Stumbled across one of your vids, subscribed, and thanks to you I've accomplished so much!
Great video. Thanks a lot!
Ive been wetting the tape since I learned how to tape in 1982, interesting comparison, thanks.
In the process of drywalling an whole attic and I must say, finding your channel has been a boon. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Will definitely take the more work intensive approach here as I want this job to be near perfect.
Great video, in Australia we use similar stuff to heavy mud for taping and second coat and then use light mud for the last coat, so you get a strong bond and smooth finish.
Here in Florida we use all purpose to tape . Light weight to bed and all purpose to skim. The light weight doesn't shrink as bad as all purpose. Sanding all purpose doesn't scratch so easily.
true but is sucks to sand AP, maybe use a lighter grit sandpaper
We in the states primarily use this for taping and patching plaster as it sticks better to the old plaster than a hot mix. Everything else is done using light mud
I suck at mudding and I hate it, but watching your videos I am learning so much and it’s starting to click for me!
Please make a video showing the correct mud consistencies for different stages of taping and finishing.
Thanks so much brother!
Thanks for bringing a little scientific method and testing into a field dominated by a mentality of "I do it this way because that's how I was taught."
Every video you post addresses real questions I actually want to know the answer to. Most construction videos on RUclips only show what I already know.
Also, I always felt that wetting the tape thing was bullshit but thanks for proving it!
When I did that other video about whether wetting the tape reduces blisters I was surprised how nicely the mud wiped out. I still would never do it over just thinning down the mud but I thought it was an okay trick. After doing the test though I think it's pretty clear it may reduce blisters but it also significantly reduces adhesion.
@@vancouvercarpenter I feel like a bit of an ass because I didn't pay as much attention to that other video as I should have. In my comment I was mostly referring to other people having mentioned it to me. Like in general guys from time to time will say "you should always do xyz." Except I've never done xyz and never had any problems. Then the bullshitometer starts pegging out. Given what you've shown here, though, it makes sense that the air would wipe out from between the mud and the tape easier, because the two aren't actually sticking together.
I recently started my own home renovation and improvement company. I didn’t want to sub out the drywall so I went on you tube found your videos and was able to do a really nice job. U have helped me make alot more money. Thanks man
As always, I hit the thumbs up button before the video even began playing 'cause I know it's going to be good!
Agree
Also that way you know you have watched that video.
Same
Right. This dude knows everything there's to know about drywall lol
We have both light weight and heavy mud here in Eastern Canada. I think it's because we have been using heavy mud since the beginning, probably a hold over from when we used plaster back in the day. When I was finishing houses we used a mix of heavy and light weight mud. I now only use heavy or what it is called around here All purpose mud. The stuff is amazing, it will stick to just about anything and if your good with it, easy to sand. What makes it difficult to work with is the shrinkage, i have to do tape plus three coats on my seams, screws and butts. Takes longer but I rather it for it's strength and durability.
Your a good man! It really is a gar superior product for the end result.
I so appreciate your instruction, you have helped me do amazingly professional looking finishes on both of my full bathrooms and before finding your channel, I had no idea what I was doing. I wish I could buy you a beer!
I live in the Pacific Northwest and we have light taping from beadex in mostly all Lowe's store's and we can get Hamilton light taping from our supplier
Here in a America we add a little bit of dish soap to the all perpuse mud. It helps a lot with bubbles
Didn't know that
When you tape with all purpose mud apply mud Wipe mud and use the mud you collecting on top of the tape. That will make a lot easier to wipe without wrinkles and adds more straight by saturating the tape with more glue on both sides. Also adding a bit of water helps.
There are 2 scientific facts of the universe that cannot be argued: 1) mass is never created or destroyed and 2) I am never skim-coating again! Mad props to you Ben and all you other troopers who tackle this most sloppy, irritating, endless scourge of wall reshaping. By the end, I really wanted to punch some holes in my handywork. In fact, I'm pretty sure I invented some new profanity that will make an appearance on the urban dictionary soon enough!
😂 sorry to hear it. Its painstaking work.
@@vancouvercarpenter I was considering skim-coating my stippled ceilings throughout my house. After this experience, I'd rather put up a 1/4” drywall sheet and tape. I simply don't have the patience you do to go through with it.
@@WayPastCrazy2525 use 1/2" board. You won't notice the thickness. 1/4" is double the price and will follow inconsistencies in the ceiling or even make them worse. I prefer to laminate over skimming. I would rather tape and finish joints over ceiling skims any day.
Hey man, just turned full time company owner from employee a couple of years ago and was never a huge taper but always got the job done the right way when the boss needed me to fill in. Going out on my own, I now realize why I was filling in all the time. Responsible people are hard to find. So a little over a year ago, I started to tape my jobs myself due to being tired of relying on other people. With that said, I was always taught to water down for inside corners. I don't add water to any other joint or fill and never have. After watching this video, I stopped watering down inside corners and realized immediately how much longer the corners were going to take even with lightweight because it doesn't spread as easy, pulls the tape, and I'm a perfectionist so any imperfection has to be fixed on the spot. After doing this test, have you stopped watering down inside corners; and if you have, how are you keeping up with production time so the job doesn't slow down? A couple of union tapers I know told me to use the corner trowel to speed things up. Have you tried it?
I'm thinking of trying a white glue and water mix to wet the tape, similar to what I mixed into hot mud. This test result was eye opening for me!
I think lightweight mud is infused with tiny air bubbles, that is a big part of it being 'light'. You can see the bubbles when you spread the material.
I tried the lightweight for a while, but ended up returning to standard mud due to so many bubbles. It was a nightmare getting them out. I always just assumed they just whipped more air into the mud to make it lighter. Didn't know about the fillers and glue. Of course I use topping after the first coat, but for strength, the heavyweight is the best.
I'm impressed too, I was wetting drywall tape and I will change my ways, you are no hack!
Back in the days of old, tapers on big jobs would thin down mud to a very liquid state, dip the tape in that liquid, and then apply the way you did. I think it works like when you apply new concrete over old and you add an adhesion layer of brushed on, thinned concrete? Made taping very fast.
Non-pro from eastern Canada. I can't say what the pros use here, but I've definitely seen the CGC all-purpose stuff around quite a bit, and especially with consumer and prosumer use. Judging from what you said, it seems like its just available more over here, because I could walk into just about any store and pick some of that stuff up. I recently started using setting type compound after watching a bunch of your videos, and I can definitely say that it's so much easier, and not dealing with shrinkage (as much) is fantastic. I've seen the CGC lightweight stuff in stores but I've never bought it or really see anyone with it. Interesting too because aside from commercial fire rated stuff, lightweight drywall panels are pretty much the only thing you can buy, so Im not sure why lightweight is such a priority there but not in the muds. In addition, I've had CGC dust reducing mud (which actually has worked to keep the dust down) but it seems to be even heavier, so I'm not sure where that falls into the mix. EDIT: also, shipping probably isn't cost effective but if there's ever some variant of mud that's available here and hard to get over there, let me know and maybe I can forward some over to you.
Sitting in my basement, looking at freshly screwed down drywall, getting motivated to start mudding some joints! Keep up the great videos!
Love these side by side comparisons. Thank you! The close-ups are very helpful.
I did wonder what the difference was. I have always used the heavy for everything. I will try the light weight after i tape and see if i like the results. Keep up the good work.
You can get the heavy all purpose in Home Depot here in Toronto. Most tapers don't use that type of mud - they use machine mud. For tape coat people use chemical mud that dries super quick and embeds the tape really hard.
Do you mean hot mud?(chemical mud)
@@CluelessEngineer Yes
Thank You! Funnily, I was taught with Standard All Purpose (5 gallon green bucket here in the States) and so use it on everything. Depending on what I am doing I just mix it, mix and add a bit of water, mix and add more water or mix and add Plaster of Paris. Because I am used to it, working it and sanding it do not seem difficult. I did get frisky on one job and try the lighter weight variants...hated how NOT scratch resistant the surface seemed. On another job, got frisky again and needed the dry time to hugely drop and so used dry bags, which I water mixed on site. Everything was great until it came time to sand. Different dry bags and premixed all dried to different hardnesses and so were left with slight thickness variations/waves after sanding..so I went back and skim coated everything with all purpose : )
I like the heavy weight for inbedding and for the first coating of the tape here in Nova Scotia , it works for me .
I'm in the UK and I've been using Gyproc Easi Fill 45 (powder) for some taping with fibre tape on a kitchen wall I drywalled and for general filling prior to decoration around the home. Not sure how it compares to North American products but it mixes, applies and sands really easily to a good finish and no cracks after many months.
As with most commenters, your videos have been super helpful!
Thank you for this! I was staring at different muds the other day wondering if it was the product or the technique in applying that made the difference. Still seems to be a bit of both, except I understand the differences better. Looking forward to more :)
Your presentation is getting extremely polished...like your trade...excellent pace, concise with clarity... now you finished off with a great sense of humor...just perfect...cheers brother!
Back in 1987 I built a perlite plant. I developed a coated micro sphere and sold to Gold Bond, Georgia Pacific, for light weight joint compound. My product was so good in the lightweight after 90 days on the shelf it was the same viscosity as when it was made. It was even more smooth than the heavy product. I could not get enough business fast enough to make it and had to sell to a company that wanted the plant for regular perlite products. No one has made a produce that good to date. I buy lightweight for my projects from time to time and it is garbage compared to what it could be.
I’ve finally subscribed. =] I’m just a home owner remodeling my kitchen and dining room, doing a lot of drywall work. You have a video for every situation I’ve encountered, from types of mud, inside corners, outside corners, taping, types of joints and more. You’re easy to follow, have great technique, and a genuine personality. Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
You're right. I was wondering why Canadian tire was the only place I was able to find the all purpose blue lid. Everywhere else was light weight and I wanted regular premix. I don't find it that hard to sand even though I've only ever used the blue lid all purpose. Mind you I've only used it for areas no larger than a couple feet not entire walls. Now I'm tempted to try the light weight since I'm still a noob at skim coating
Living in Hawaii, we are at the mercy of the vendors (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) and I have gone back to the heavy weight all purpose mud for taping joints and found that it does work much better. 8 joints in our guest room and no bubbling and great adhesion. I'm using Plus 3 for finish coats, but have left it behind when it come to taping as it just doesn't work well for taping. Again, many thanks for your videos, they have helped me tremendously in our guest room project.
That outro is why I still consume this channels videos; good stuff all around.
🤣 I’m sitting here re-watching some of your videos to brush up before I dive into the actual mud portion of a bath renovation. The last 20-30 seconds or so, paraphrased: “You’re not watching videos ALL day, are ya? I mean it. Go build something.” You caught me. Guess I better get to work.
Btw, I’m a low voltage guy (Fire, Burg, CCTV). This is NOT my wheelhouse. But I’ve got a better clue on the entire process from your videos. Thanks for it! Now, if I could just figure out why the builder of my house chose stud spacing of 16”... or so... give or take several inches”. Seriously. Every stud is differently spaced, including one that’s 22”. 🤦♂️
Someone who actually knows his stuff! I Love it, very helpful.
I'm really grateful you made this video. I live in USA and had never heard of the light-weight mud. So when I watched your other videos I would be like "wow he spread that drywall mud so perfectly so easily..." and now I know why. It may sound dumb but I was wondering if I was just bad at doing a basic skim coat or maybe I just was far less efficient, but it takes me a good while to skim with the heavyweight mud (especially ceilings) and a good while to sand it if I'm bad and have too thick of mud in some places. Anyway, it now makes sense why you love the trowel and hawk so much. Very helpful video. I appreciate you!
We have been using LaFarge Rapid Coat for a number of years. It sticks well, coats very smoothly, dries fast and sands well. The downside is it costs 30% more. LaFarge is a Canadian company so it is surprising you didn't mention it. It seems common is the central US through some vendors.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. They way I was taught was to watch pro do work and learn how they would when they would be doing a job. And would ask him a question try not to interfere with them. You bring great information where you explained the steps your are do and great information the way you perform the job thank you for your time to do this. To show your way of doing it
I live in Toronto Onrario and that blue bucket of heavy weight is all we had in home depot up until the last maybe 8 years. Im a taper myself. Love the videos brother!
St Louis we have the green taping mud. Its even heavier and more adhesion than the blue label. I use the blue for finish. You have to be good with it when its so hard to sand
That's funny, because here in the US most novices buy the regular weight, all purpose mud. I only use it for taping, and occasionally skim coating or something since it has the extra glue. But 99% of the time I prefer the lightweight.
I think part of the reason wetting the tape first not working can be seen under a "microscope" as well, your explanation is #1 though, water taking up the space so the goop can't get in, also, the "fibers" of the tape lay down flat and do not seek/sink into the the mud.
well done!
I just bought a box of heavy mud before watching this vid, looks like i'm in for a sanding nightmare!!!!
Good to know .. Out east coast canada all i ever see is the heavy weight. Same stuff you have, defently need to give it a good mix first!
Great video. Your videos were the most helpful for me in a recent remodel for my daughter. By best drywall job ever! Thank you.
Dude! Don't shame your viewers for viewing! I spent most of the day caulking out in 92 degree HUMID weather. Love the videos... Looks like you guys don't get much humidity in the summers the way we do here in Kansas. Would love to see a video on temperature and humidity ranges as they relate to drywalling...I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to wait at least until mid Sept. if not Oct, to even start...Just ordered a moisture meter from Amazon...hoping the wood hasn't absorbed so much humidity over the summer that I'll have to wait until winter (and rent a heater) to get this done.
i live in the US, i only know about the heavyweight, not a pro but it works for me. good video, and won't try that tape wetting.
Love your videos! They've been a big help for my taping skills. Just wanted to let you know I'm on the east coast of Canada and the heavy mud is quite common here. Climate is much different here than Vancouver though. Keep up the great work. Thanks!
On the end comments on it being hard to use, the all purpose mud is easy to use if you are used to hot mud and only use it for taping or skimming already relatively flat surfaces.
Hi. When I started taping in 1986 in Edmonton, we were using a product by Synko called "Red Line". It was available in All Purpose and Topping/Finishing. Lightweight muds were just coming on the market. Currently Synko sells a heavy mud in pails called "Redi Filler", at Home Depot. I believe that this is the original formulation of Synko Red Line All Purpose. (I also noticed recently that Hamilton mud now uses the term "Red Line" for a lightweight all-purpose mud.) We used to sand Synko Red Line with 120 grit sandpaper.
When I moved to Toronto in 1987 they mostly had CGC All Purpose mud which was heavy. Finishing muds were very hard to find. CGC mud sanded with 100 grit sandpaper.
I have found with lightweight muds that they leave a texture which must be sanded completely, or they will flash, and that the original Red Line mud did not have this problem, although it required an extra coat on joints and corner bead to compensate for added shrinkage.
Keep up the videos. I enjoy watching them and don't feel that I will ever stop learning how to be a better taper.
We've always used heavy weight all purpose. We still do. The real fun part was sanding by hand before we got the sander.
Great test! I'd like to see the heavy weight mud thinned a little for taping tested.
good idea. I will do another tape pull video
@@vancouvercarpenter Great! Thanks. I sure hope it turns out that heavy weight mud thinned for taping is the strongest becasue that's the way I've been doing it.
Here in upstate NY I apply paper tape with the green top heavy all purpose mud and mix in some wood glue then my top coats are either blue top mid weight and I skim coat with light weight to fill scratches and small voids. Never have issues but yes the heavy weight sucks to work with.
Ive been using "conventional all purpose compound" and its freakin heavy but I'm glad and I find the dust falls faster to the floor, it doesn't linger in the air but sanding I use 100 grit to take off any heavy spots works like a charm
Same for me, I love the green All Purpose. I used lightweight mud for years until I tried the green box a few years back, now I think the lightweight suck. I really don't understand why people say almost unanimously that it's tough to sand. Hot mud like Sheetrock45 is hard to sand, horrible to sand.
I've been doing drywall off and on for a few years I live in Michigan and I don't believe I've ever seen the light drywall mud all I use is + 3 it is a bit hard to work with but you end up with a very durable joint
UGL Plus3 ?
Isn’t that the blue lid light compound?
NJ here.
@@machia0705 yes
@@machia0705 since watching this video I've changed the way I drywall all together I start using a banjo to lay my tape and mud then I thin all the rest of my coats down to a heavy paint light consistency and apply it with a roller and smooth out with your knives which results in a very smooth fine finish
That wetting trick works against any adhesion unless you wet it with adhesive itself :). Liquid adhesive while consist some amount of water use it as media to penetrate into material pores and bonds substrates, when one of substrates already saturated with water, it gives less chances to adhesive to find free pores it can penetrate into, no to mention additional water has same effect as dilutions of glue which may make it more workable but not way stronger.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos , You hear a lot of talk but the proof is in the testing , I just had my basement done by guys that just dry wall and tape and they use the blue cans heavy mud for the first coat /tape then the green cans , for the second coat , than a little water in the green on the third coat . thanks again Pete m
Green bucket I think is better for the First Coat
Synco yellow in the west and CGC green box in the east for taping, pro set or sheet rock 45, then finish skim with light weight. Done! one day
Hey Vancouver Carpenter !! Nice video !! Just for your info ! There is NO GYPSUM or GYPSUM BASED PRODUCT in mud ! The lightweightness is obtained by playing with the ratios of different raw materials in each recipe ! Been working with our chemists for the past 8 years and i have learned a lot from them but also from tapers from BC to the Maritimes !! Cheers my friend !!👍🏽
Can you tell us what some of the differences might be. What makes it so hard and heavy. I'm not expecting to hear any secret recipes but just some general info. I really wish we had heavy all purpose here.
Vancouver Carpenter heading out w wife now ! Will send u some info over the weekend ! Happy Canada Day
@@doctormud4078 Hey! You missed last week when we had St Jean Baptiste!!
Vancouver Carpenter ready mix compound preference is very regional ! Here in the east of Canada, tapers really like lightweight muds and very few use taping mud ! While i was in Vancouver i met many tapers working with taping, all purpose and finishing mud on same job ! We make an heavy taping mud but mostly used to laminate drywall to concrete ! But no one wants to lift these boxes for sure! Who said being a taper was an easy job after all ! Love your videos ! Keep on posting 👍🏽
Vancouver Carpenter oh ! To answer your question ! Some dry raw materials are heavy and hard to sand and some others are light but also easier to scratch and then the liquid raw materials and fillers!! It is really a matter of finding the right balance between all of them to fill different purposes! Cheers!
I live in Newfoundland and have only ever used the heavy weight product. I'm not sure if the lightweight mud is even available here. If it is, it's definitely not common.
Dude. Your videos are amazing and extremely helpful! I'm getting ready to renovate my mancave and I've learned a ton of useful info from your videos. Thanks from NY! Stay safe out there!
Wow. Now I know why 'bucket mud' is so hard to sand. It's a heavyweight, not a light mud. Only when you showed the bucket that I know I've used before did I realise.
Very common in Ontario, thin it down with water and it works very nice.
I use durabond to bed tape. Light blue lightweight to get flush and texture, plus 3 for last top coat.
Thanks for the test, don't wet the tape, I always have.
I also fast set tape, second coat the same day.
How about the different between pre-mixed mud and the powder from the same brand? For instance, in powder, you can et 20, 45, 90, etc. In pre-mixed form, they don't seem to tell you the specific time you need to wait until next step. Do you have a preference between pre-mix and powder (mix your own), assuming all other things are equal? Great video, thank you!
I have noticed that 3 in 1 will shrink when taping and lay down real nice, taping with all purpose will not shrink as much and does not feather edges as well as the 3 in 1, taping with durabond 90 in outside walls and bathrooms was a night mare as it seamed to expand and stay excessively proud of the joint than other compounds.
Light Mud vs Heavy Mud (What's the difference?) Ans: Light Mud contains antelope and gazelle. Heavy Mud contains hippopotami and elephant. Here in the UK we put plaster on our walls (and on our fingers when we cut them).
Have you tried blue dot Westpac/Hamilton taping mud? It’s only used for applying joint tape and corner bead. It has a lot of glue in it and you can hardly rip the paper off the wall. If you splatter some mud on the drywall and let it dry you will rip the paper off the drywall if you try to scrape it of with your knife!
I live in Vancouver , and my mud of preference is Synco classic finish . Red box .
Very helpful in understanding some differences between mud types and the pro and con of the wet tape use. What do you think of mesh tape?
Haha, yeah, wetting the tape creates a water barrier between the tape and mud, although it may feel smoother to apply like you're mixing the mud on the wall, once that water evaporates... it's a bad idea, think of it as paper mache. Just mix soupy enough mud so the glue can absorb into the tape and you will never have a problem.
Wetting the tape would be like misting my Modified Thin set before setting my tiles on it. That's exactly how i thought of it when I watched you demonstrate it in previous videos, i'm glad you were able to show the results
Great way to describe it. A water barrier.
We have both types here in ontario, I like to tape with heavy and finish with light. When I was out west they had boxes that said tapeing mud and finishing mud. I did a ceiling with the tapeing mud...the whole thing, sanding sucked big time I thing it was like 2000 sq feet of 10 foot ceilings i did.
Definitely impressed with your videos. So many bad presenters and videos on RUclips, and you are NOT one of them. Don't change a thing.
USG Plus 3 is MUCH easier to sand. Taping... Hot mud. (45 min, or 90 min). Fill coat... Mix of hot mud and Plus 3. Final coat... Plus 3 only. Skim coat, if needed... Straight Plus 3. Also, bucket mud ALWAYS needs to be thinned out. Patches can be textured with Plus 3 (thinned).... Rooms, Go Buy Real Texture Mud!!!
Careful with mold on this stuff. Use it quick. Maybe it was a bad batch, but was sealed tight in air conditioned closet for 2 months.
haha if you think the blue stuff is heavy, try the green stuff we usually use for taping. Around here (eastern US), green for tape, blue for topping.
I have a bucket of light plus3. Can I use it start to finish? Small job.
Your video presentations are superb.
I’m a new subscriber.
Thanks from the USA.
Thanks for another not Carpentry video......😆😆
Your videos helped me so much over the last few months!
Sure appreciate your content 🤘🤘🤘
the confusing thing watching this from norway is that we have three main categories of mud, fine, medium and coarse.. Its so hard to translate this to our system
I would seriously pay Vancouver Carpenter to let me work with him for a day just to gain more knowledge
Aggie 907 same