Have you tried extra hold hair spray to keep the rears on? Spray into a small cup, clean the hubs, dab a small amount on a art brush, then brush on hubs. Slide tires on, true them as you would then leave them to dry over night. At least this works with replacing motorcycle grips on a street bike I use to own.
I found some C2 .474 silicone, (jellies I call them) off EBay for AFX mag and non mag chassis. They really work perfectly. I’m buying more soon because I need em. They really grip well, not to soft or firm. Just right!!
I would suggest since you have multiple chassis,,,take a gear holding section and keep it separate. You could use a topped nail to hold the gear into the Frame while polishing.
your videos are freaking great man!!! I would recommend just trying to step up the quality a little bit, otherwise super informative. appreciate all you do for the slot car community.
Get work on the Layout the depth shading on the pool nice.Suddle details I've found makes makes the model come alive . The fact it's not train oreinted is a REFESHING change .
I use newly made B.T.O. Better than original Magnets for an Aurora AFX Magnatraction or X-Traction style car. They are two to three TIMES as strong as the original magnets in an Aurora car, they are an upgrade on the X-Traction cars as well. From SlotCarCentral.
@@kameronchapp7109 Be careful of making too much downforce with more powerful magnets.They will slow down your straight away speed.A good set of tires and well matched stock magnets is all you need to make it handle better.Magnatraction cars will vary in how much motor braking they have too.If the car coast too much when you let off the gas then adjust you motor brushes.
@@kameronchapp7109 Sorry about acting like I know it all it's just I've been racing and modifying g-plus and magnatraction cars since the mid 70s.I'm kinda like a mad scientist and have probably destroyed 85 cars and bodys to see what works and what doesn't.I have found what makes pancake motors mean green and quadralams rev like inline motors.
It doesn't matter how much you polish that heavy brass gear it'll never improve the performance as much as a light plastic gear.The guys I race with and myself don't use brass gears.If any of us use a heavy brass gear were uncompetitive.
I enjoy your videos but on the AFX build you made no improvements until each mod you made has established a justified improvement in your data which = stable Peak numbers on the dyno not erratic numbers jumping all over the place on a car that is in running condition i do the following first gears, axle, rear hubs and tires in order to achieve reliable data on the dyno in order to achieve stable peak numbers on the on the dyno that's just my deal everyone has their own
Have you tried extra hold hair spray to keep the rears on? Spray into a small cup, clean the hubs, dab a small amount on a art brush, then brush on hubs. Slide tires on, true them as you would then leave them to dry over night. At least this works with replacing motorcycle grips on a street bike I use to own.
Great video and saweet layout! Your beat point is at the 3:32 mark!!!
Bingo
I found some C2 .474 silicone, (jellies I call them) off EBay for AFX mag and non mag chassis. They really work perfectly. I’m buying more soon because I need em. They really grip well, not to soft or firm. Just right!!
Great tools great company
Very impressive...nice work..
Great video’s. Thanks for the tips. Can you do an episode on soldering lights on a Tyco afx chassis. Thanks. Kool channel. “ KEEP ON SLOTTING “. 🏎🏎🏎.
Good thing the liquor stores are open...
Great tutorial by the way!
I would suggest since you have multiple chassis,,,take a gear holding section and keep it separate. You could use a topped nail to hold the gear into the Frame while polishing.
your videos are freaking great man!!! I would recommend just trying to step up the quality a little bit, otherwise super informative. appreciate all you do for the slot car community.
I like hotiresdirect for mt rears
Does the shoe tension change with heat when you're running the car?
The guide pins on some of my cars bottom out. Can you do one on them as well. Which is better and for what chassis. Thanks. 👍🏎🏎
Does Aj's still make the spun aluminum wheels with the silicone tires glued to them? The ones with the threaded axle and little brass lock nut?
you can still find them on ebay
Nice video. Great info.
What is the website I can get the yellow block for tear downs and maintenance. Vonco motor block? BTW in still pending to join your facebook group.
Get work on the Layout the depth shading on the pool nice.Suddle details I've found makes makes the model come alive . The fact it's not train oreinted is a REFESHING change .
have you ever did a video on the VRP Arm Tool ? I'm about to through mine lol
looks like you need to keep it level every time you lift it it raises
any videos about getting magnatraction to stick to the track better?
I use newly made B.T.O. Better than original Magnets for an Aurora AFX Magnatraction or X-Traction style car. They are two to three TIMES as strong as the original magnets in an Aurora car, they are an upgrade on the X-Traction cars as well. From SlotCarCentral.
@@kameronchapp7109 Be careful of making too much downforce with more powerful magnets.They will slow down your straight away speed.A good set of tires and well matched stock magnets is all you need to make it handle better.Magnatraction cars will vary in how much motor braking they have too.If the car coast too much when you let off the gas then adjust you motor brushes.
@@kameronchapp7109 Sorry about acting like I know it all it's just I've been racing and modifying g-plus and magnatraction cars since the mid 70s.I'm kinda like a mad scientist and have probably destroyed 85 cars and bodys to see what works and what doesn't.I have found what makes pancake motors mean green and quadralams rev like inline motors.
I found silicone.450”-.474” size work great and they still fish tail a lil if you allow it.
T1, T2, T3 Thundercats and Panther are Slottech cars
It doesn't matter how much you polish that heavy brass gear it'll never improve the performance as much as a light plastic gear.The guys I race with and myself don't use brass gears.If any of us use a heavy brass gear were uncompetitive.
He was polishing a plastic idler gear.
I enjoy your videos but on the AFX build you made no improvements until each mod you made has established a justified improvement in your data which = stable Peak numbers on the dyno not erratic numbers jumping all over the place on a car that is in running condition i do the following first gears, axle, rear hubs and tires in order to achieve reliable data on the dyno in order to achieve stable peak numbers on the on the dyno that's just my deal everyone has their own
Troy where do you get your crown gearsfrom
dude use a plastic gear and throw that heavy brass gear in the box.If you must have a metal gear use one of the lightened magnesium gears.
It is a plastic idler.