As someone who used to wrench and sell bikes, I really liked the choices and explanations. New riders and home mechanics will definitely benefit from this style video. Keep them coming.
I just picked one of these up to cruise around town on and keep my mountain bikes for where they belong. Within 10 minutes of having it home, I ordered a bunch of parts and starting researching drive train upgrades. Great video and I’ll be doing a similar setup.
Nice! Yes nothing worse than riding the trail bikes on the road, so heavy and slow. This bike for me is going to be my go to when the trails are closed for wet conditions. So far it’s working out well. Loving the bike.
Thanks so much for the in depth demonstration & explanation! It makes me much more confident to go work on the bike after getting a general idea for just disassembling and reassembling different parts
I got me a ixf crankset with a 32t oval and a 52t circular both by Snail, and a micro shift advent X 11-48. And i still use the L-Twoo, i just skip every other gear till the last two climbing gears. And my rear wheel came off an old Kent Trouvaille 29er.
Saw this bike in person tonight in a small. I don't think the Medium is going to be big enough for me as I'm 6'3. The bike looks really nice in person though. Also going to need you to put up a Dallas Stars banner ASAP!! ;)
It's best practice to "face off" the bottom bracket shell to ensure a perfectly aligned bearing surface. That's something best done at the bike shop (high cost specialist tools), although the removal & install on a faced BB shell is an easy home maintenance job. Facing the BB shell makes it less likely to get early creaks and groans from the bearings.
My math maybe fuzzy but 38x11 is 3.45:1 where as 46x14 is 3.28:1 which means you should need to spin slightly faster cadence than 38x11 to maintain the same speed.
I have a Poseidon X and the 1x just doesn't cut it as a city bike. I was going to by the Salsa Sora Journeyer when it went on sale... but then this came along.
sheesh, I've got one I CANNOT get the crank side arm off. seems like it's welded on, won't budge. stripped the threads with the tool. destroyed the cranks with hammers and screwdrivers, I assume at this point I'll have to replace the bottom bracket as well. I might find that ball joint tool for cheap and if that don't work we're going hacksaw. in any case, this video was full of great ideas!
I agree with your preference for a 2x setup. I think 1x is a fad and should be reserved for mountain bikes, not bikes that will be ridden on the road. Some of the same folks who are touting 1x setups were probably against cross chaining with 2x and 3x setups years ago, but that's exactly what your doing with a 1x setup.
Just got the bike for my wife today and I have the Possiden X Ambition. My question is, for the Ozark, we really would like it to be a bit more quiet so if I wanted to get a clutch so the chain is not bouncing around everywhere what would I need to get to improve this?
@@redhourinfantry6117 I don’t know too much about cross compatibility with derailleurs. Easiest solution would be to grab a chain stay guard. They can usually be had for less than $20. Or you could wrap an old inner tube around the chainstay and that will help soften the noise a bit.
My limited research indicates that there are two rear derailleurs with a clutch that would work: the Microshift Acolyte and the Box Four. They are marketed as eight speed derailleurs but seven and eight are cross compatible.
In another video you mentioned replacing the pedals do to a strike and that the cranks were low. Did you opt for a shorter crank arm when you replaced this one with the shimano? Just curious - great video and thanks for the deep dive into this bike. I looked them over the other day in stores and am considering grabbing one for the fun of it.
I went with the same crank length at 170. I thinks it’s just going to be one of those things that ya gotta watch out for when leaning into a turn while pedaling.
@@RavelloBikes that would also work. Most folks get a little intimidated when it comes to lacing a wheel, but yes that’s the I’d go if I had more patience. I’ve built a couple of wheel sets in the past. It’s truly an art and not for the beginners 😊
This video showed the older style square taper cartridge style bottom bracket being replaced with the newer external type. I believe the external type was forced into existence with the advent of carbon fiber frames which could not be threaded as were the steel, titanium and aluminum frames which had been used forever before. The maker of the video stated there was no real practical reason for this change. It brought the old statement to my head, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." He kept the two front chain rings and added some wise words about whether the bike should be converted to a 1X system. I think they are going to sell a lot of these bikes at the $248 price.
Actually there are 3 reasons for the change that make perfect sense. #1 is the square taper spindle is notorious for wearing out. 2 the weight should be somewhat lighter. Lastly they should be stiffer and stronger. Possibly a #4 is the bearings in the cartridge bb are more water/weatherproof. It's a cheap upgrade.
3x would be nice but I think for me the 2x is going to be plenty of range. I’ve had no trouble so far in the climbs around here getting up everything in around 3rd or 4th.
@@ltaylor2238 you're playing with fire. . . lol I believe these bikes have the potential to see a price increase. . . if the popularity continues. This bike could have been priced +$100 more and i think it would still be a good value at $350
@@venicrable I like it more than the x as it stands with all my changes. Comparing stock bike vs stock bike. I’d take the x everyday. But this bike frame fit me a bit better than my two Poseidons. And my upgrades gave me exactly what I wanted out of a drop bar rig.
Dude if your gonna do anything with this bike, Make it a 1x drivetrain and put micro shift advent shifter on it. just like the Marin Gestalt X 10.. put black Maxxis reaver tires on get rid of the tan wall trash and lets see what this thing can do.
You are money ahead if you just buy a better bike with better components. Buying a cheap bike then upgrading components is more expensive in the long run. Learn from my experience. Buy a better bike and ride it instead of upgrading it!
Not all bud, This bike is perfect on a budget to have fun upgrading. I built a 1500 dollar bike with a china carbon frame lighter and outperformed my friends 5K bikes….😂more expensive bikes just have more expensive “one size fits all” components with generic crank length, stem length, and handle bars that have to be replaced, or most of us will change components anyway.
LOVE, love, love the nose-scratching and ultra-slow delivery. 😊Nice.
As someone who used to wrench and sell bikes, I really liked the choices and explanations. New riders and home mechanics will definitely benefit from this style video. Keep them coming.
Thanks, appreciate the comment! 😊
I just picked one of these up to cruise around town on and keep my mountain bikes for where they belong. Within 10 minutes of having it home, I ordered a bunch of parts and starting researching drive train upgrades. Great video and I’ll be doing a similar setup.
Nice! Yes nothing worse than riding the trail bikes on the road, so heavy and slow. This bike for me is going to be my go to when the trails are closed for wet conditions. So far it’s working out well. Loving the bike.
Same.
Thanks so much for the in depth demonstration & explanation! It makes me much more confident to go work on the bike after getting a general idea for just disassembling and reassembling different parts
Do you have a link to the specific parts you upgraded? Thanksbfor the video and providing insight to compatible parts.
I got me a ixf crankset with a 32t oval and a 52t circular both by Snail, and a micro shift advent X 11-48. And i still use the L-Twoo, i just skip every other gear till the last two climbing gears. And my rear wheel came off an old Kent Trouvaille 29er.
Hey Matt, bike looks great! Can you link the crank set you went with?
Nice work young man. Enjoy the bike.
I think putting some riser bars on it would be fun. If renthal fat bars would fit that would be awesome.
Mine was delivered today! Can't wait to upgrade
Saw this bike in person tonight in a small. I don't think the Medium is going to be big enough for me as I'm 6'3. The bike looks really nice in person though. Also going to need you to put up a Dallas Stars banner ASAP!! ;)
Going for a larger freewheel would be the first thing on my list. There are even 14-34 where the 34T should get you up most hills.
It's best practice to "face off" the bottom bracket shell to ensure a perfectly aligned bearing surface. That's something best done at the bike shop (high cost specialist tools), although the removal & install on a faced BB shell is an easy home maintenance job.
Facing the BB shell makes it less likely to get early creaks and groans from the bearings.
My math maybe fuzzy but 38x11 is 3.45:1 where as 46x14 is 3.28:1 which means you should need to spin slightly faster cadence than 38x11 to maintain the same speed.
having the same thought
What size bottom bracket does it use?
Ok I I see.. I’m planning on buying to Ozark this weekend
Check out 3:17 of this video!!
I have a Poseidon X and the 1x just doesn't cut it as a city bike. I was going to by the Salsa Sora Journeyer when it went on sale... but then this came along.
Yes. The 2x is something I’ve come to appreciate on a bike like this since I’ll be mostly using it on the pavement.
sheesh, I've got one I CANNOT get the crank side arm off. seems like it's welded on, won't budge. stripped the threads with the tool. destroyed the cranks with hammers and screwdrivers, I assume at this point I'll have to replace the bottom bracket as well. I might find that ball joint tool for cheap and if that don't work we're going hacksaw. in any case, this video was full of great ideas!
Heat up the arm around the crank with a torch then try again
Great video … makes me want to try it.
Link or name of parts you bought?
I'm planning to put a bafang BBSHD on this and I'm new to biking. So, what size is the bottom bracket? 68mm? Walmart's website says 122.5mm.
LOOK at 3:17 folks!! Is that a quality control red flag?? Jeepers!!!!
What do mean? No grease? There was a slight bit of grease in there it was also clear.
What bottom bracket can you use on these bikes? Looking to upgrade my crankset
Great info! Thanks
Can the crank arm be separated from the chain rings?
not on this model
What's the chainline on this bike? Looking to swap on mountain bike cranks but I'm not sure which size to order. Thanks in advance!
I agree with your preference for a 2x setup. I think 1x is a fad and should be reserved for mountain bikes, not bikes that will be ridden on the road. Some of the same folks who are touting 1x setups were probably against cross chaining with 2x and 3x setups years ago, but that's exactly what your doing with a 1x setup.
Just got the bike for my wife today and I have the Possiden X Ambition. My question is, for the Ozark, we really would like it to be a bit more quiet so if I wanted to get a clutch so the chain is not bouncing around everywhere what would I need to get to improve this?
@@redhourinfantry6117 I don’t know too much about cross compatibility with derailleurs. Easiest solution would be to grab a chain stay guard. They can usually be had for less than $20. Or you could wrap an old inner tube around the chainstay and that will help soften the noise a bit.
@MASHLEY69 Also u said that the wheels were double walled correct?
@@redhourinfantry6117 I believe the stock wheels are double walled, yes.
My limited research indicates that there are two rear derailleurs with a clutch that would work: the Microshift Acolyte and the Box Four. They are marketed as eight speed derailleurs but seven and eight are cross compatible.
How you liking that bike? Hearing great things about it!
The bike is great! Even in stock form there’s more to like than not.
What are the hubs like? Any good?
The stock wheels are ok. They’ll get ya by. I’ve had these JG Bike wheels for a few years. They are a great budget option.
In another video you mentioned replacing the pedals do to a strike and that the cranks were low. Did you opt for a shorter crank arm when you replaced this one with the shimano? Just curious - great video and thanks for the deep dive into this bike. I looked them over the other day in stores and am considering grabbing one for the fun of it.
I went with the same crank length at 170. I thinks it’s just going to be one of those things that ya gotta watch out for when leaning into a turn while pedaling.
Do you have a li k for the cassette?
Does this bike use 12x100 and 12x142 quick release?
What size bottom bracket is this ? Want to convert to a 1x.
68mm
Do you know if that bike comes with a 14x28 thread on freewheel or does it have a freehub with an 11x28 cassette?
It comes with a freewheel. If you want cassette you’ll need to bring a new wheel
@@MASHLEY69 Or if you build wheels like I have (since 1976), one could buy a hub and cassette with a freehub and re-lace it.
@@RavelloBikes that would also work. Most folks get a little intimidated when it comes to lacing a wheel, but yes that’s the I’d go if I had more patience. I’ve built a couple of wheel sets in the past. It’s truly an art and not for the beginners 😊
Hey matt can i get a link for the crankset
Hey there…here’s the link for that crank I used. Thanks 😊
SHIMANO Acera Hyperdirve MTB... www.amazon.com/dp/B0847TFW7K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
What size was the bottom bracket you put in?
It’s a universal that came with a JGBike crank set from Amazon. They fit between 68-73mm. They and I used one spacer.
This video showed the older style square taper cartridge style bottom bracket being replaced with the newer external type. I believe the external type was forced into existence with the advent of carbon fiber frames which could not be threaded as were the steel, titanium and aluminum frames which had been used forever before. The maker of the video stated there was no real practical reason for this change. It brought the old statement to my head, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." He kept the two front chain rings and added some wise words about whether the bike should be converted to a 1X system. I think they are going to sell a lot of these bikes at the $248 price.
Actually there are 3 reasons for the change that make perfect sense. #1 is the square taper spindle is notorious for wearing out. 2 the weight should be somewhat lighter. Lastly they should be stiffer and stronger. Possibly a #4 is the bearings in the cartridge bb are more water/weatherproof. It's a cheap upgrade.
Next upgrade, go for a 3 x on the front with 10 speed on the cassette, trust me it works well
3x would be nice but I think for me the 2x is going to be plenty of range. I’ve had no trouble so far in the climbs around here getting up everything in around 3rd or 4th.
Can someone tell me what height the size 44 fits? Every video I see is for the 50. Women ride as well!
I tried the small fame I’m about 5’7” and it felt too small for me. I’d say the small frame would be good for someone around 5’ to 5’4 ish
@@MASHLEY69 Did you ride it or just straddle it? Reach looks long to me for someone my size according to geometry chart
@@ltaylor2238 I rode it best I could in the garden center. I felt cramped with the bars close to hitting my knees
@@MASHLEY69 If I wait long enough, maybe the 44 will go on sale since everyone is buying the 50 lol
@@ltaylor2238 you're playing with fire. . . lol I believe these bikes have the potential to see a price increase. . . if the popularity continues. This bike could have been priced +$100 more and i think it would still be a good value at $350
How do you like this bike compared to the Poseidon X?
@@venicrable I like it more than the x as it stands with all my changes.
Comparing stock bike vs stock bike. I’d take the x everyday.
But this bike frame fit me a bit better than my two Poseidons. And my upgrades gave me exactly what I wanted out of a drop bar rig.
@@MASHLEY69did you do any upgrades on the brakes or drivetrain aside from the crank?
How much you have in upgrades at this point?
An additional $100 or so.
Pedals
Cranks
Cassette
Stem
Headset
I already had the wheels which will be one of the larger expenses.
Can you provide a link
Link?
@@hecticthund3r738 SHIMANO Acera Hyperdirve MTB... www.amazon.com/dp/B0847TFW7K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Dude if your gonna do anything with this bike, Make it a 1x drivetrain and put micro shift advent shifter on it. just like the Marin Gestalt X 10.. put black Maxxis reaver tires on get rid of the tan wall trash and lets see what this thing can do.
38 11 is faster than 46 14 my friend
Ha! I’m not good with that stuff but my fast gearing is going to be 12/46 with this setup. Definitely felt more speed with less effort/spinning out
@@MASHLEY69 ahh. Yeah the 12 will definitely be faster than the stock, my bad
Why do they call it a gravel bike? I don’t want to ride on the gravel, and I don’t live in the country on a gravel road! 😂
You are money ahead if you just buy a better bike with better components. Buying a cheap bike then upgrading components is more expensive in the long run.
Learn from my experience. Buy a better bike and ride it instead of upgrading it!
Not if you have parts lying around.
@@VIC-20_Synthwave This is true. Also, this bike would be useful for Winter cyclists like myself.
Not all bud, This bike is perfect on a budget to have fun upgrading. I built a 1500 dollar bike with a china carbon frame lighter and outperformed my friends 5K bikes….😂more expensive bikes just have more expensive “one size fits all” components with generic crank length, stem length, and handle bars that have to be replaced, or most of us will change components anyway.
Would it be possible to get an in-depth headset change guide? OD and ID measurements, And type of headset used, Please? 🫶🏻