Thinking I do not have enough heat load on the new boiler plus I do not have an established coal bed yet. Thinking that is my main issue. I will get it figured out.
You’ll get it sorted out. Coal beds are key with these dinosaur units. I always “chase the coals” on mine. If I opened the door and I have a ton of coals I’ll burn some junk or pine. If I come and coals are thin I’ll use good hardwoods etc. you’ll sort it out overtime. 👍🏻
Any new machine is a learning curve. I think I’m finally on the right track now. Crazy but I can’t wait till next winter when I get to see how she will really perform when it’s super cold and I’m running everything all at once.
As a C series owner an someone that works in the field C series is notorious for it. I would say load demand is your issue. In laymens terms.... for what your using or supplying right now isn't enough load for the warmer temps as compared to winter time outdoor temps. What I would try is change your temperature difference on stove to a closer # like 5 degrees. As it warms up outside the stove won't loose temp as fast as when it's winter. Then causing your long down times N embers going out. Other then that there should be a quarter size flap in the back by intake to stove. This allows some air to come into the box to hopefully avoid this. Love following hope this helps out some
Last night I changed the differential to 7. Not sure if it took or not. Will have to check it today. I did open up the small hole all the way as well and that seemed to help. Boiler ran 3 times over night and ran fine. Went out this morning to zero wood left. But burn times and idle times seemed to be the same according to my charts.
Great video. Great content. That drip at wood loading door will be even more depressing after what I tell you. The lip or offset of ash pan metal where it shuts the ash pan door against. The drip on my wood door dripped down onto it and actually took the paint off. it’s so acidic. My unit is all stainless. Paint didn’t hold up there at all. I need to look into possibly an epoxy paint. Or even call Sherman Williams and get there opinion. On another subject. My gauge up top for water level indicator. I purchased good quality DOT certified 3M reflective red and silver tape. I took old sticker off and kept it to transfer lines. Halfway to full is red half way to bottom is silver. I took a permanent marker and transferred lines back on reflective tape. I had a neon green knock to a bow and arrow. 🏹 I glued onto horizontal metal indicator line. Fluorescent paint would work also. I can now with no problem at night see my gauge in the dark with as simple as a light from phone. I enjoy so much working and running my boiler. All these different brands and types of boilers. And the condition of wood being used plays into a huge learning curve. Have a great week sir.
Yeah the drip is weird for me bc the wood I put in there literally as minimal water in it. I know I will learn this boiler in no time. When it runs properly it’s awesome.
Hey Matt, kind of similar to the temp sensors that I suggested for you, you could install a timer that would run for 5 mins every hour (or so) which would effectively be the same thing that your G10000 had as an idle timer. It'd be really easy to connect the output of the timer to the fan in the new boiler. I do this for heating my shop's in-floor loops instead of using a thermostat. I have the timer turn on and run 20 mins and then cycle off for 60 mins. Holler if you want to try that and I can send a link to the timer I'm using.
I did think about installing a timer to do that. I may have it dialed in pretty good right now. But I would be interested to see how you do that because I want to do something similar with my snowmelt system.
My father in law has the mf3000e I believe which is the same line as yours but in Canada and his is way smaller than yours. He also has trouble with the fire going out all the time on warmer days. He just changes the differential to 5 I believe and it does help, but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.
Warmer days it’s definitely tough. That was nice with the g series with the timer cycle. I think I have her figured out now. With this new unit it will definitely be tough come middle of the summer when I’m heating the kiln and hot water for house. It will just idle forever. But I’ll figure it out.
Stick with it, it's always hard to operate the OWB during the shoulder seasons. With a new system there will be some learning curve to navigate, you'll get there.
I know I will get it figured out soon enough. Took me a while with the g series as well. And once I had it figured out I knew exactly what to put in and how much for the load that was about to put on her.
If you are confident the heat deferential is not set to far apart. You might try increasing your heat demand a little by introducing more fresh air into the kiln. Maybe 15 minutes open per hour until you get the coal bed established. I would assume it would make the kiln demand more heat. Just trying to think outside of the box a little with the most benefit to your needs. Have a great day..
Yes that’s a good idea. I am putting in a new batch inside the kiln today. So I know the boiler will cycle just fine as the heat load will be substantial today. Hopefully after today I will have an establish ash and coals.
Just like everyone else said, set your diff to 5°. The reason your G series established a coal bed as fast as it did, is because by design the primary burn chamber on a gasifier is only to produce a coal bed and heat the wood enough to release the wood gas. I don’t know what kind of adjustments are available on your new unit? If the airflow is adjustable, you should lower it to produce more coals. The less airflow, the more coals you will produce. In the cooler season, it won’t matter, because it will be cycling more often, which will require very few coals to reignite.
Yeah I just thought about damping the air flow into the box. It is adjustable so in a few days if I can’t figure out how to establish a good coal bed and to keep them lit I will try and slow down the airflow to have longer burn times.
I just looked at your install video. I see this unit uses an actuator for the air dampers, so you should be able to adjust the airflow. I would adjust that airflow down, it will give you a better coal bed. Also, you will notice even less wood consumption, because you will be blowing less heat through the boiler and out the stack. Because you burn such dry wood, it isn’t necessary to have a lot of combustion air.
A solution might be to set your upper temp lower, or to reduce the difference between the lower and upper temp. That would reduce the burn time, but it would also reach the lower limit faster and reduce the idle time.
Kind of weird that steam was coming out -- How hot was the water? Since there is no recirculating pump maybe water near the firebox is boiling and then just not condensing before leaving the boiler? I guess you'll have to see if you need to periodically add more water to it. I don't think it's' smoke -- If smoke was able to get out that means you'd be leaking water somewhere else.
The water temp was at 180ish. I may adjust the damper in back to maybe not let as much air in the box to maybe slow down the burn so the fire can burn for longer. Maybe that will help with getting a coal bed. Or maybe I need to mix not so dry wood with my dry wood to see if that helps. It just idles for to long.
Wow on the problem of keeping a fire !! Like you said probably not enough demand in the warmer outside temperature ! Yah on another kiln 😊 BUT before that comes...might it work to run the heat in your outside concrete pad to help in faster recycling times til you get another kiln ??? Another thought on when you get a lot of dried totes ...how are you planning on storing them to keep them dry ?? You have a Good Day 😊
I could run the snow melt. But with this warmer weather the concrete will be warm from the sun and once it gets to temp it will never cycle. Maybe once a day. So barely a load. I will get it figured out hopefully soon enough. As far as keeping the wood dry and storage. I will remedy that here shortly as well. Haha
@kendriedger151 as long as I find time. But for that I will have to make time. Because dry would is money in the bank and I’m out of room. So maybe in about a month I should be on to that.
no water side leaks anywhere?,steam…could just be condensation burning off insulation does stove have more than 1 sensor reading temps…maybe check pumps.. load that beast up and open the windows 😂have a great day
Stove has one temp sensor. I have my sensors on the pumps. Everything seems to be working just fine. I haven’t seen any steam coming out since that one time. So thinking all good now.
If I remember right, your running your differential a 10 degree, your probably have to narrow it to 5 degrees, I’m running mine at 4 degrees, I just don’t have the demand on it right now, hopefully this helps
@@Treestofirewood perfect, you might have to go right to 5 degrees, its hard to get a coal bed in the c series, everything fine falls through the grates , you need to put in a big swimming pool to heat lol
I did think about that the other day. Keep the one I have now and still build a larger one especially if I can’t get heat demand large enough. I’m sure my new kiln will pull a lot so hoping that it will be enough.
The damper definitely opens and you can see how much air comes out the stack. I think it’s just how short the burn times are that it doesn’t have enough time to burn and create any coals. I shortened the idle time and opened the small hole on the intake to help with a small small draft to hopefully keep the coals lit
Oh you have no idea. With how busy I am right now. It’s the last thing I need to be doing. Especially when it’s messing up my kiln drying times. But I may be on the right track. Been adjusting stuff all day and may have her on the right path.
@shayn4220 I have not. I think I have her dialed in now. Been good all day. Will be a video soon after I fine tune and have her running good for a few days.
You’ll get it sorted out. Coal beds are key with these dinosaur units. I always “chase the coals” on mine. If I opened the door and I have a ton of coals I’ll burn some junk or pine. If I come and coals are thin I’ll use good hardwoods etc. you’ll sort it out overtime. 👍🏻
Any new machine is a learning curve. I think I’m finally on the right track now. Crazy but I can’t wait till next winter when I get to see how she will really perform when it’s super cold and I’m running everything all at once.
As a C series owner an someone that works in the field C series is notorious for it. I would say load demand is your issue. In laymens terms.... for what your using or supplying right now isn't enough load for the warmer temps as compared to winter time outdoor temps. What I would try is change your temperature difference on stove to a closer # like 5 degrees. As it warms up outside the stove won't loose temp as fast as when it's winter. Then causing your long down times N embers going out. Other then that there should be a quarter size flap in the back by intake to stove. This allows some air to come into the box to hopefully avoid this. Love following hope this helps out some
Last night I changed the differential to 7. Not sure if it took or not. Will have to check it today. I did open up the small hole all the way as well and that seemed to help. Boiler ran 3 times over night and ran fine. Went out this morning to zero wood left. But burn times and idle times seemed to be the same according to my charts.
Great video. Great content. That drip at wood loading door will be even more depressing after what I tell you. The lip or offset of ash pan metal where it shuts the ash pan door against. The drip on my wood door dripped down onto it and actually took the paint off. it’s so acidic. My unit is all stainless. Paint didn’t hold up there at all. I need to look into possibly an epoxy paint. Or even call Sherman Williams and get there opinion.
On another subject. My gauge up top for water level indicator. I purchased good quality DOT certified 3M reflective red and silver tape. I took old sticker off and kept it to transfer lines. Halfway to full is red half way to bottom is silver. I took a permanent marker and transferred lines back on reflective tape. I had a neon green knock to a bow and arrow. 🏹 I glued onto horizontal metal indicator line. Fluorescent paint would work also. I can now with no problem at night see my gauge in the dark with as simple as a light from phone. I enjoy so much working and running my boiler. All these different brands and types of boilers. And the condition of wood being used plays into a huge learning curve. Have a great week sir.
Yeah the drip is weird for me bc the wood I put in there literally as minimal water in it. I know I will learn this boiler in no time. When it runs properly it’s awesome.
Hey Matt, kind of similar to the temp sensors that I suggested for you, you could install a timer that would run for 5 mins every hour (or so) which would effectively be the same thing that your G10000 had as an idle timer. It'd be really easy to connect the output of the timer to the fan in the new boiler.
I do this for heating my shop's in-floor loops instead of using a thermostat. I have the timer turn on and run 20 mins and then cycle off for 60 mins.
Holler if you want to try that and I can send a link to the timer I'm using.
I did think about installing a timer to do that. I may have it dialed in pretty good right now. But I would be interested to see how you do that because I want to do something similar with my snowmelt system.
Thanks for the update 👍 I can't imagine your frustration right now. I'm sure you'll get it tracked down and be able to get it roaring like it should.
I think I’m almost there. Been trying different things. I may be on to something right now. Hoping to get her dialed in in the next few days.
@@Treestofirewood Can't wait to see the solution
My father in law has the mf3000e I believe which is the same line as yours but in Canada and his is way smaller than yours. He also has trouble with the fire going out all the time on warmer days. He just changes the differential to 5 I believe and it does help, but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.
Warmer days it’s definitely tough. That was nice with the g series with the timer cycle. I think I have her figured out now. With this new unit it will definitely be tough come middle of the summer when I’m heating the kiln and hot water for house. It will just idle forever. But I’ll figure it out.
Stick with it, it's always hard to operate the OWB during the shoulder seasons. With a new system there will be some learning curve to navigate, you'll get there.
I know I will get it figured out soon enough. Took me a while with the g series as well. And once I had it figured out I knew exactly what to put in and how much for the load that was about to put on her.
Put fire brick over your grates with a 1"gap in between the bricks. Less air flow more coals in your bed only need the grates for coal
That’s a great idea. I may just do that.
Good update Matt.
Thank you. Will continue to show the results of how it has been going.
Try to only use the shaker grates when the fans can't blow through. The ash will help insulate the coals.
So far I have yet to use the shaker grate as I haven’t established any ash or coals. Haha
If you are confident the heat deferential is not set to far apart. You might try increasing your heat demand a little by introducing more fresh air into the kiln. Maybe 15 minutes open per hour until you get the coal bed established. I would assume it would make the kiln demand more heat. Just trying to think outside of the box a little with the most benefit to your needs. Have a great day..
Yes that’s a good idea. I am putting in a new batch inside the kiln today. So I know the boiler will cycle just fine as the heat load will be substantial today. Hopefully after today I will have an establish ash and coals.
Just like everyone else said, set your diff to 5°. The reason your G series established a coal bed as fast as it did, is because by design the primary burn chamber on a gasifier is only to produce a coal bed and heat the wood enough to release the wood gas.
I don’t know what kind of adjustments are available on your new unit? If the airflow is adjustable, you should lower it to produce more coals. The less airflow, the more coals you will produce. In the cooler season, it won’t matter, because it will be cycling more often, which will require very few coals to reignite.
Yeah I just thought about damping the air flow into the box. It is adjustable so in a few days if I can’t figure out how to establish a good coal bed and to keep them lit I will try and slow down the airflow to have longer burn times.
I just looked at your install video. I see this unit uses an actuator for the air dampers, so you should be able to adjust the airflow. I would adjust that airflow down, it will give you a better coal bed. Also, you will notice even less wood consumption, because you will be blowing less heat through the boiler and out the stack. Because you burn such dry wood, it isn’t necessary to have a lot of combustion air.
@howlandexcavating once I get a hang of this boiler I will definitely be fine tuning it.
A solution might be to set your upper temp lower, or to reduce the difference between the lower and upper temp. That would reduce the burn time, but it would also reach the lower limit faster and reduce the idle time.
I changed the temp differential last night and that seemed to help a bit.
You're trying to heat to little with to much water capacity, will probably work fine in colder weather. Set differential for 3-4 degrees.
I’m playing with the settings now and adjusting something’s. Seems to be working a little better now.
Kind of weird that steam was coming out -- How hot was the water? Since there is no recirculating pump maybe water near the firebox is boiling and then just not condensing before leaving the boiler? I guess you'll have to see if you need to periodically add more water to it.
I don't think it's' smoke -- If smoke was able to get out that means you'd be leaking water somewhere else.
The water temp was at 180ish. I may adjust the damper in back to maybe not let as much air in the box to maybe slow down the burn so the fire can burn for longer. Maybe that will help with getting a coal bed. Or maybe I need to mix not so dry wood with my dry wood to see if that helps. It just idles for to long.
Wow on the problem of keeping a fire !!
Like you said probably not enough demand in the warmer outside temperature !
Yah on another kiln 😊 BUT before that comes...might it work to run the heat in your outside concrete pad to help in faster recycling times til you get another kiln ???
Another thought on when you get a lot of dried totes ...how are you planning on storing them to keep them dry ??
You have a Good Day 😊
I could run the snow melt. But with this warmer weather the concrete will be warm from the sun and once it gets to temp it will never cycle. Maybe once a day. So barely a load. I will get it figured out hopefully soon enough. As far as keeping the wood dry and storage. I will remedy that here shortly as well. Haha
@Treestofirewood sound good...OK on keeping wood dry ...Hahaha...looking forward to that video !😁
@kendriedger151 as long as I find time. But for that I will have to make time. Because dry would is money in the bank and I’m out of room. So maybe in about a month I should be on to that.
no water side leaks anywhere?,steam…could just be condensation burning off insulation
does stove have more than 1 sensor reading temps…maybe check pumps..
load that beast up and open the windows 😂have a great day
Stove has one temp sensor. I have my sensors on the pumps. Everything seems to be working just fine. I haven’t seen any steam coming out since that one time. So thinking all good now.
Mine is under the switch and outlet plugs.It's black and yellow and it's a plug in timer.I would send you a picture but I don't know how
Also I leave mine at 178 to 170.Then it creeps up to about one eighty two and stops
Hhhmmm weird. I don’t see that on mine. You can always send me an email with the picture.
If I remember right, your running your differential a 10 degree, your probably have to narrow it to 5 degrees, I’m running mine at 4 degrees, I just don’t have the demand on it right now, hopefully this helps
I did change mine last night to 7 and that seemed to help. We will see how today goes.
@@Treestofirewood perfect, you might have to go right to 5 degrees, its hard to get a coal bed in the c series, everything fine falls through the grates , you need to put in a big swimming pool to heat lol
@pizann350 yeah. I’m going to try and put more load on her hopefully soon. Need to build my new kiln pretty quickly.
Not enough load demand ash will get a coal bed going
Yeah. I’m working on the load demand right now. And playing with the differential settings.
Will we ever see in the fire box
I thought I’ve shown it before. I will show on the next one.
You might end up building two large kiln containers just to put a big enough load on the boiler in warmer temps.
I did think about that the other day. Keep the one I have now and still build a larger one especially if I can’t get heat demand large enough. I’m sure my new kiln will pull a lot so hoping that it will be enough.
Sounds frustrating I wish I had answer if was classic I would say sounds like damper stuck ,
The damper definitely opens and you can see how much air comes out the stack. I think it’s just how short the burn times are that it doesn’t have enough time to burn and create any coals. I shortened the idle time and opened the small hole on the intake to help with a small small draft to hopefully keep the coals lit
Hopefully it’s just down to user error and you’ve just got to get used to it.. fingers crossed
I know I will get it figured out. Biggest thing is I don’t have an established coal Bed yet.
What's your diff set to?
180 set point. 10 degree differential. I changed the differential to 5 today and seems to be working great now. Will see what happens come morning.
@@Treestofirewood Same. Mine went out at 10 went to 5 and no problems.
When mine steams like that it’s overheating , very strange
I think there’s really no smoke because my wood is super dry?
@@Treestofirewood makes sense just frustrating I bet
Oh you have no idea. With how busy I am right now. It’s the last thing I need to be doing. Especially when it’s messing up my kiln drying times. But I may be on the right track. Been adjusting stuff all day and may have her on the right path.
@@Treestofirewood did u reach out to sales rep u get your boilers from
@shayn4220 I have not. I think I have her dialed in now. Been good all day. Will be a video soon after I fine tune and have her running good for a few days.