Hehehe, youre dad is a blast. Truly enjoyed both, youres and his, take on making topps. Thanks for posting this. Perfect evening watch. Best regards Gregor
I am gonna be 68 on July 4th but I think I am reverting to be a child once again. I love those tippe tops and after watching your video I want one so I can mindlessly play with it and watch it spin when I am bored. LOL Love it
Great video, and extra fun with your dad giving you grief at the end ! Helpful tidbit for people trying this at home: The Oneway Profile jaws are very helpful for gripping square stock. Many turners with only the standard 50mm jaws that came with their chuck will not have as good a grip, with only 8 small points of contact. Profile jaws are made for this, while most are not, especially dovetail jaws.
That is great. If I ever get caught up on orders, I will give these a try. I am also a big fan of the father-son tag team. I think that was the best demo I have seen from your dad, he is getting the hang of this RUclips stuff.
Older lathes used to have a 90 degree L shaped tool rest. You may want to see if that is an option. Set it once and do everything. Walker-Turner was a brand that had this configuration.
Love all of your videos. I love how you and your Dad show different techniques. I'm not so comfortable with my skew yet, so I love the different approaches. Thanks!
Neat video Shawn. Loved seeing your dad at the end too. As you are learning and practicing your welding more, could you make your own right angle tool rest that would make it so you don’t have to move the rest to hollow it out?
Aside from a bit of excusable blown out highlights on the turning, that was a great video. You taught the method very well, reinforcing concepts. Then your dad adds to the options for guys like us. Really appreciated the depth of content in this.
I will jump on board that the different ways of accomplishing something was a great way to look at it. Both styles have their place depending on the need, and we can always learn from seeing how others do things differently. Another great video, thanks!
Nice tag team. Thanks for posting. Welding up a tool rest with a short section at 90 degrees to the main part comes to mind for your end turning issue.
Sean I think your Dad just had one of those “In your face moments” Quality over quantity,,, that’s ok we know who gets the bills paid. Lol Comical video guys well done!
With you new found welding and metal work make either a combined or add on tool rest? Arm or bar that is of the height for the plunge, or even jig that mounts to the bedway that you can slide up and down out the way that has a to rest short enough not to interfere with the main one?
have you made a second tool wrest yet that you can engage and disengage especially for using your scraping tool? Seems like that would be the quickest fix. something you can lock into place where you need and unlock and swing out of the way. thanks for the video.
Good for both of you. Sean/Shawn(?) should look into conservation of angular momentum; Newton had nothing to say about rotating bodies. The tension between production and "perfection" is well balanced. I'm more in the Dad camp, but I don't count on revenue from my turning to feed the kids and pets. I'll note you're both turning on high-end lathes these days (I have a humble Powermatic), and you're both better than I am.
Somewhere, I've seen a tool rest that has arms at right angles. Also, the little scraper looks like a bedan with a slightly rounded tip. I made one from 1/4 x1/4 x 8 HSS square tool bit. You could make the entire top with the bedan.
Nice instructional video with some great points introduced by both Shawn & his side kick “dad”. I’m just trying to gauge how much one of these “impulse buys” would sell at a normal craft fair or market. At most a $1.00 or even two for a buck. It’s all good fun & appreciate the info.
Thanks for the education Shawn and a great project. Have you thought of including your dads step of the jacob chuck in your production method? Batching out a ton of almost complete tops before rechucking could save you time
You need a block that sits into the bed ways that can be slid up to the end of the wood as a tool rest for hollowing. Could be locked down with a good sized mag switch.
Love the channel, I'm always learning useful things here Hope I can give back with these suggestions I can see a couple of potential improvements : 1. like several other commenters have said ask metal worker to make you a right angle tool rest (with a depth stop block attached), to alleviate moving the rest and needing to measure the depth, you could also get the depth stop set to drop into a slot to align it perfectly parallel every time 2. get a thinner skew gouge to alleviate the material loss or use a thin parting tool , and therefore get 3 tippy tops out of the blank 3. a Lathe steady rest would allow you to create much longer blanks and reduce time spent changing blanks (also reduce material loss from the waste left in the chuck), this might require you to develop a way of making your blanks round first, i.e. run them through a dowel jig or buy hard maple dowels at the right size etc 4. develop a tool to sand easily, something like a blacksmiths spring swage in the right shape lined with sand paper could make for a simple 1 step sanding 5. any time you change tasks is time lost, so using the skew to pare off the waste on the bottom 1 by 1 as you go (i.e. switching from paring to turning and back again) could be quicker done by batching the task at the end of a turning session, with a knife all in 1 go
love these, would using a shorter rest so the banjo can be closer to the headstock allow you to make and use a wooden rest for the scraping with a tennon to locate it in the bedway
Good video. I can totally understand the two approaches. Batch production, where "time is money" against the "perfectionist" approach which doesn't add any real value to inexpensive items as you can't double the price to cover the extra time. The only way that I can see to cut out the time consuming rest movement would be to grind your mini scraper shape onto the side of the end of a 2 inch chisel. That would allow you to keep the chisel on the same rest position but cut / drive in from the front with a sideways action. Not sure if that makes sense or if it would work.
Hi You ask about ways to speeds up production To speed up production on a tippy top. Have you consider making a second tool rest. You have about 1.5" on tool rest post. A second tool rest hold tighten
Hmmm. The tippy top does not change direction. If, without spinning it, you just hold it facing down, and then hold it facing up, the arrows will be pointing in opposite directions. Newton's second law, conservation of momentum, does apply. There is no additional force to change the direction of the top. You are just looking at it upside-down.
Can you put on a 2nd banjo with a custom made stubby rest that is extended out from the banjo. Then maybe all you have to do is slide that one in for subsequent tops.
Great project and great explanation. Really like that you included your Dad’s approach as well. Would a thread chasing armrest work to hold the scraper for your end hollowing operation? You don’t need a string around your neck for it and it might allow you to not have to reposition the toolrest. Sorby’s is about $40
It has probably been mentioned already, but I didn't want to read through all the comments. Why don't you just have someone weld up a custom tool rest. One option would be to have it turn 90 degrees and have it be at the perfect height. The problem with this option is you would still need to slide the tool rest to the left and precisely set it after each top. Another cooler option would be have an attachment that goes on your current tool rest that extends horizontally from the middle of the top you are making directly toward the tool rest, which parallel to the ways. The custom tool rest then goes up and over the the tool rest and then hooks to the bottom of the tool rest. As you finish one top, you just slide it toward the headstock so it is ready for the next top. You could tap a thumbscrew into it to lock it into place if you needed the extra stability. It would look like this... _____________________________________ | __________________________________| | | | | | | _ | |___| | ________|
Would it be possible to put a second tool rest on the lathe in place of the tail stock, angled so that the feet point to your right and the post is on the opposite side from you with a short tool rest set perpendicular to the bed? That way you’re only making one adjustment (left to right, not left:right and up:down) with the tool rest per blank or top. It might feel a little cluttered though.
Great video!! Using 1.5" hard maple, how deep are you hollowing? I've tried to make several today and the last one tips up occasionally, but not consistently. The first three I made were hollowed more deeply and it seems that was too much. I made the recess less in each successive one and finally got to a point with the fourth one where it at least tips over once in a while. Any advice??
@@wortheffort Well, mine are about 3/8". Not sure if that is "thick." But mine narrow as they go further inside. Probably not good. Also, I see commercial metal ones that show way deeper hollowing than the one I got to work. I think I'm lacking a clear understanding of the best measurements to use. Tried to order some of yours, but they are sold out.😒
So, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Uh, I mean turn a top. 😳 But seriously, I do appreciate seeing alternative methods. Yet I am left wondering how your dad managed to not have the Jacob's chuck not leave compression marks on the handle; or did he? To hollow out the inside, why not make a wooden block banjo that simply slides down the rails, with a round steel bar at the top that is perpendicular to the rails. Of course, the steel bar must be placed near the center of the block, so as you scrape the downward pressure doesn't tip the block towards the headstock. It would put the rest further away from the wood than normal, but Idon't believe dangerously so.
@@CactusMan56 Haven't seen your email ... here's what I use: 1-1/2" diameter wooden balls (Amazon) Wooden dowel - 5/16" diameter by 1-3/8" length 7/8" Forstner bit - drill depth 9/16" Drill 5/16" hole 1/4" deep after drilling 7/8" Forstner bit
Thank you so much for including your father at the end!
This is great! Love the father and son approaches to making the tops.
Hehehe, youre dad is a blast. Truly enjoyed both, youres and his, take on making topps. Thanks for posting this. Perfect evening watch.
Best regards
Gregor
Nice contrast son and dad. What a great relationship you share.
Oh yes, the top lesson too was great! Thanks!
Great video. I wish my dad were still here to do things like that with me. But now I do them with my son. Awesome!
Shawn: 7/10 - Dad: 9/10 😁 Both; thanks for the video. Cheers, Tom
I am gonna be 68 on July 4th but I think I am reverting to be a child once again. I love those tippe tops and after watching your video I want one so I can mindlessly play with it and watch it spin when I am bored. LOL Love it
Great works from father and son!
Great video, and extra fun with your dad giving you grief at the end ! Helpful tidbit for people trying this at home: The Oneway Profile jaws are very helpful for gripping square stock. Many turners with only the standard 50mm jaws that came with their chuck will not have as good a grip, with only 8 small points of contact. Profile jaws are made for this, while most are not, especially dovetail jaws.
This is the best tippy top explanation build video I have seen! You have taken the guess work out of this project for me! Thanks so much!
Shawn, as always great sharing and learning for me. I really enjoyed your Dad's guest appearance and POV. Thanks, guys!
That is great. If I ever get caught up on orders, I will give these a try. I am also a big fan of the father-son tag team. I think that was the best demo I have seen from your dad, he is getting the hang of this RUclips stuff.
Best video in a while. I have missed these in depth project videos of your.
Older lathes used to have a 90 degree L shaped tool rest. You may want to see if that is an option. Set it once and do everything. Walker-Turner was a brand that had this configuration.
Shown up by dad. I liked seeing his take on it.
Love all of your videos. I love how you and your Dad show different techniques. I'm not so comfortable with my skew yet, so I love the different approaches. Thanks!
2
Direct and honest - love it!
Neat video Shawn. Loved seeing your dad at the end too. As you are learning and practicing your welding more, could you make your own right angle tool rest that would make it so you don’t have to move the rest to hollow it out?
I thought of a right angle tool rest as well
Aside from a bit of excusable blown out highlights on the turning, that was a great video. You taught the method very well, reinforcing concepts. Then your dad adds to the options for guys like us. Really appreciated the depth of content in this.
HOLY CRAP I JUST STARTED LOOKING FOR TIPPEE TOP HOW TOOS
THANK YOUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There are a lot of hippies where I live. So, I think I'm going to call mine "Magic Mushrooms". Great video. Thanx.
I will jump on board that the different ways of accomplishing something was a great way to look at it. Both styles have their place depending on the need, and we can always learn from seeing how others do things differently. Another great video, thanks!
Need a dueling lathe segment. Same project turned simultaneously each in individual fashion. Head to head just for fun
Thanks! This looks very helpful. I like your dad’s take too.
Thanks for teaching how to do this. Going to make some for gifts!
Nice tag team. Thanks for posting. Welding up a tool rest with a short section at 90 degrees to the main part comes to mind for your end turning issue.
thanks again for another excellent lesson in tool use and craftsmanship.
Now this what I'm talking about!
Nice video Shawn and Mr! both great teachers!!!
Great informatif video. Lots of glare with your new light
Really cool. I’ll have to see if I can make a few. Thanks for sharing
Sean I think your Dad just had one of those “In your face moments”
Quality over quantity,,, that’s ok we know who gets the bills paid. Lol
Comical video guys well done!
Nice job dad!
With you new found welding and metal work make either a combined or add on tool rest?
Arm or bar that is of the height for the plunge, or even jig that mounts to the bedway that you can slide up and down out the way that has a to rest short enough not to interfere with the main one?
Thanks for sharing your technique with this great video! Your videos are always so informative!
A Lad and Dad turning lesson!
What more can you ask for? ;o)
Very good! Congratulations!!
A 90 degree tool rest would spend up your production. Great video.
I love your dad.
Nice project thanks for sharing
have you made a second tool wrest yet that you can engage and disengage especially for using your scraping tool? Seems like that would be the quickest fix. something you can lock into place where you need and unlock and swing out of the way. thanks for the video.
Great tutorial! Tas
Good for both of you. Sean/Shawn(?) should look into conservation of angular momentum; Newton had nothing to say about rotating bodies. The tension between production and "perfection" is well balanced. I'm more in the Dad camp, but I don't count on revenue from my turning to feed the kids and pets. I'll note you're both turning on high-end lathes these days (I have a humble Powermatic), and you're both better than I am.
Great video guys, thanks for sharing all your concepts and processes it's really helped my wood turning
I sell hundreds of these at the local bar. Good job
Great video as always!
Somewhere, I've seen a tool rest that has arms at right angles. Also, the little scraper looks like a bedan with a slightly rounded tip. I made one from 1/4 x1/4 x 8 HSS square tool bit. You could make the entire top with the bedan.
Nice instructional video with some great points introduced by both Shawn & his side kick “dad”. I’m just trying to gauge how much one of these “impulse buys” would sell at a normal craft fair or market. At most a $1.00 or even two for a buck. It’s all good fun & appreciate the info.
Wow are you underestimating your work value.
Thanks for the education Shawn and a great project.
Have you thought of including your dads step of the jacob chuck in your production method? Batching out a ton of almost complete tops before rechucking could save you time
You need a block that sits into the bed ways that can be slid up to the end of the wood as a tool rest for hollowing. Could be locked down with a good sized mag switch.
Love the channel, I'm always learning useful things here
Hope I can give back with these suggestions
I can see a couple of potential improvements :
1. like several other commenters have said ask metal worker to make you a right angle tool rest (with a depth stop block attached), to alleviate moving the rest and needing to measure the depth, you could also get the depth stop set to drop into a slot to align it perfectly parallel every time
2. get a thinner skew gouge to alleviate the material loss or use a thin parting tool , and therefore get 3 tippy tops out of the blank
3. a Lathe steady rest would allow you to create much longer blanks and reduce time spent changing blanks (also reduce material loss from the waste left in the chuck), this might require you to develop a way of making your blanks round first, i.e. run them through a dowel jig or buy hard maple dowels at the right size etc
4. develop a tool to sand easily, something like a blacksmiths spring swage in the right shape lined with sand paper could make for a simple 1 step sanding
5. any time you change tasks is time lost, so using the skew to pare off the waste on the bottom 1 by 1 as you go (i.e. switching from paring to turning and back again) could be quicker done by batching the task at the end of a turning session, with a knife all in 1 go
Coolest video ever!!!
Great video, thanks.
Thanks!
love these,
would using a shorter rest so the banjo can be closer to the headstock allow you to make and use a wooden rest for the scraping with a tennon to locate it in the bedway
Try it.
Good video. I can totally understand the two approaches. Batch production, where "time is money" against the "perfectionist" approach which doesn't add any real value to inexpensive items as you can't double the price to cover the extra time.
The only way that I can see to cut out the time consuming rest movement would be to grind your mini scraper shape onto the side of the end of a 2 inch chisel. That would allow you to keep the chisel on the same rest position but cut / drive in from the front with a sideways action. Not sure if that makes sense or if it would work.
Hi You ask about ways to speeds up production
To speed up production on a tippy top. Have you consider making a second tool rest.
You have about 1.5" on tool rest post. A second tool rest hold
tighten
Wonderful! But that is easy, make the Columbus egg flipping on its top.
Hmmm. The tippy top does not change direction. If, without spinning it, you just hold it facing down, and then hold it facing up, the arrows will be pointing in opposite directions. Newton's second law, conservation of momentum, does apply. There is no additional force to change the direction of the top. You are just looking at it upside-down.
So gonna make this :D
Can you put on a 2nd banjo with a custom made stubby rest that is extended out from the banjo. Then maybe all you have to do is slide that one in for subsequent tops.
Great project and great explanation. Really like that you included your Dad’s approach as well. Would a thread chasing armrest work to hold the scraper for your end hollowing operation? You don’t need a string around your neck for it and it might allow you to not have to reposition the toolrest. Sorby’s is about $40
Cool advice. I wish people let us know how much they sell for though.
I enjoyed your video very much. Thank you for spending the time in explaining everything. THANK YOU!
Have you tried using Bill Jones arm rest for scraping?
Thanks for the video! I tried to make a big top that you need a string to spin. I haven't gotten it correct yet... or I'm just bad at spinning them.
What about getting 2 tool rests and us a hose clamp at the set height for both tools.
It has probably been mentioned already, but I didn't want to read through all the comments. Why don't you just have someone weld up a custom tool rest. One option would be to have it turn 90 degrees and have it be at the perfect height. The problem with this option is you would still need to slide the tool rest to the left and precisely set it after each top.
Another cooler option would be have an attachment that goes on your current tool rest that extends horizontally from the middle of the top you are making directly toward the tool rest, which parallel to the ways. The custom tool rest then goes up and over the the tool rest and then hooks to the bottom of the tool rest. As you finish one top, you just slide it toward the headstock so it is ready for the next top. You could tap a thumbscrew into it to lock it into place if you needed the extra stability. It would look like this...
_____________________________________
| __________________________________|
| |
| |
| | _
| |___| |
________|
cost benefit.....
You could make an "L" shape tool rest. One of the turners in my local group uses one to make tops...
You’d still have to move it per top.
I am getting so close to getting it. I can't get it come up on its end
Would it be possible to put a second tool rest on the lathe in place of the tail stock, angled so that the feet point to your right and the post is on the opposite side from you with a short tool rest set perpendicular to the bed? That way you’re only making one adjustment (left to right, not left:right and up:down) with the tool rest per blank or top. It might feel a little cluttered though.
OK, after several failed attempts at making these silly things I wonder if the Maple I am using is not dense enough. Is heavier wood better?
nah, I've made them in other species. keep at it. don't repeat mistakes.
Sorry hit thumbs down by mistake. Great video
What about a 90 degree or curved rest?
Why not make an L-shaped tool rest? You could scoot it left for each successive top.
Get a tool rest with a 90° bend. Then you wouldn’t need to move it so much.
Great video!! Using 1.5" hard maple, how deep are you hollowing? I've tried to make several today and the last one tips up occasionally, but not consistently. The first three I made were hollowed more deeply and it seems that was too much. I made the recess less in each successive one and finally got to a point with the fourth one where it at least tips over once in a while. Any advice??
Did you remember the part about a thick handle?
@@wortheffort Well, mine are about 3/8". Not sure if that is "thick." But mine narrow as they go further inside. Probably not good. Also, I see commercial metal ones that show way deeper hollowing than the one I got to work. I think I'm lacking a clear understanding of the best measurements to use. Tried to order some of yours, but they are sold out.😒
@@jameswhattam3945 woods cheap. ExPertiment
@@jameswhattam3945 I just checked. They don't show sold out for me. I have about a dozen left.
@@jameswhattam3945 Also the shape of hollowing affects balance.
Why not get a 2nd tool resr
so how much do you sell the tippy top for? How much for your regular top?
Depends on marketplace. Business 101.
👍
Great video. You are a good teacher.Thanks!
Shawn who sells more tops you or your dad?
I sell them by the thousand, the gives away a few.
why not make a 90 deg tool rest?
You'd have to move it for every top defeating the purpose of making it.
So, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Uh, I mean turn a top. 😳 But seriously, I do appreciate seeing alternative methods. Yet I am left wondering how your dad managed to not have the Jacob's chuck not leave compression marks on the handle; or did he?
To hollow out the inside, why not make a wooden block banjo that simply slides down the rails, with a round steel bar at the top that is perpendicular to the rails. Of course, the steel bar must be placed near the center of the block, so as you scrape the downward pressure doesn't tip the block towards the headstock. It would put the rest further away from the wood than normal, but Idon't believe dangerously so.
I like your dad’s method better, sorry. LOL. Thanks for the education though, I learned something from your methodologies. 😉
I cheat. I buy a bag of 1.5" wooden balls on Amazon for about $15 and use a 5/16" dowel for a handle. Quick, easy, and they sell like crazy!
Do you use a spade bit like 1" to do the hollowing on a drill press?
@@CactusMan56 Forstner bit ... spade bit doesn't make as clean of a hole as my Fortsners.
@@GeraldJensen I sent you an email with a drawing of what I am going to try. 7/8" bit, 7/8" deep, 5/16" dowel - What do you use?
@@CactusMan56 Haven't seen your email ... here's what I use:
1-1/2" diameter wooden balls (Amazon)
Wooden dowel - 5/16" diameter by 1-3/8" length
7/8" Forstner bit - drill depth 9/16"
Drill 5/16" hole 1/4" deep after drilling 7/8" Forstner bit
@@GeraldJensen Thank you, sir. That is exactly what I needed to know :)
I love watching WorthThEffort!
its not reversing direction its just upside-down.
You mean Newton was right and momentum matters?