Love these videos... and the fact that a parent is so interactive with their child. You both give me hope for the future of society. Very Cool and thank you.
PVC is not a problem for air lines except in certain environments PVC gets brittle over time as the oils leave the pipe.. It will then shatter or burst at the weak point usually a fitting screwed into the pipe to accept a hose . Use at least SCH 40 or heavier. Where I live I can take a piece of 3/4 PVC that's over 5 years old and it will shatter when being cut with a PVC cutter unless you use a saw. If it's starting to look dull and faded it's getting old. I have a friend who has sch 40 PVC in his shop for over 20 years... NO PROBLEM. He painted it and it's still working and he does bodywork. But just be aware.
because unfortunatly the macho shows like kindigit garage and the gas monkey doesnt show us how to do this stuff we have to reduce ourselves to learning from a 14 year old girl. lol. im confident with my manhood though, my wife just walked by my office and i proudly said hey honey, look at whos teaching me to make a decident drier for my compresser. lol. true story.
This young person has such a super cool way about her. If I have had a rough day at the office l come and watch her and feel better in no time. This girl is a winner. I am a very big fan. I just don't know what I am going to watch when she gets her bug done???
Hannah I don't why you haven't posted more videos but if you can it would be gratefully appreciated. You give a lot of people a lot of help and for that I thank you. Never let the haters stop you just delete their comments and carry on. I still want to know what happened with your bug good or bad. We all learn something even from failure so carry on and love all 13 of your videos.
Nice work, Hannah! My daughter Nika is super excited to see you working on your car. She's 8 years old and likes to work on projects too. She said "I'm a mini-version of her!" Looking forward to seeing more as you make progress and hope you are enjoying your summer! Sincerely, Tom (and Nika) Z
For those who are concerned about Explosions ... You could make a 3/4 inch plywood frame around the outside (top, sides, NO bottom) and a 3/4 inch plywood door on hinges to open when you want to work on it or change desiccant. If it were to blow it would blow all the chips out the bottom onto the floor not causing anyone any injury (or hardly any).
@Chairman of the Board I imagine that is true. but schedule 80 PVC has a max working pressure of 340 psi - that would be a 300% over rated. I worked in the woodworking industry for 15 years starting in high school and I never saw a PVC rupture and yet it was used all over the facility. so what is your experience? have you ever seen PVC rupture carrying 100-120 psi air?
Mine just exploded this morning, wear and tear over five years of use in a machine-shop setting. It's not the values the materials are rated for but the stresses introduced every time the media is changed , I think, that caused it. Luckily no one was in that room when it happened. Going to have a sheet of plywood in front of the next one!
I'm gonna build this and put some mesh around the tube in case it explodes (even though Thor disagrees). I love your channel, Hannah! I've learned a lot from you. Thanks!!
I like working with pvc too! Here's a tip... When inserting your glued piece into its mating surface, start a 1/4 turn off center and insert it straight then give it the 1/4 turn to center. This twist helps seal the parts... Good video!
Great Video, love your enthusiasm! You should put a list of all the items with lengths you used in the comments on the video. Great to see a young lady doing these type of videos (I know years ago) but I have a 4 yr old daughter that I hope one day will have the same interest and knowledge that she and daddy can create some interesting, educational, valuable videos like this! Thanks!
Amazes me how some men on here are scared a young lady can teach them something, Hannah you are awesome keep up the good work, happy to see you can share your knowledge with others, keep it up you have a fan here !
Very inspirational work, Hannah! Please give us an update on how well your Air Dryer works. With regard to PVC as a containment vessel, industrial users with which I have worked are concerned about the pulsations caused by on/off air releases causing micro-fractures in the plastic pipe which eventually cause ruptures and explosions. Just an FYI. Keep up the good work!
Schedule 80 PVC is more resistant to those micro fractures. It doubles the wall thickness. Love the idea. Trying it myself with this minor mod (Sch 80)
Very nice project Hannah. I love how you explain what you're doing as you go, as it is fun and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing and keep u the good work!
Very good job to the girl making it & the parent(s) to help her do it. Wish there was more families out there that could do things together like this & kids that want to learn with their hands and not electronics. Might have to make one for my air compressor & see how well it works.
Just saw a couple of your videos for the first time. I made a desiccant drier for my compressor with galvanized steel pipe. It isn't as snazzy as yours but it does the job. I don't want to be That Guy but it really is fairly dangerous to make this out of PVC. Ignoring anything else, PVC is far more likely to break if, say, something falls on it. Combine that with the pressure behind it and it gets ugly. You never see PVC being used for air lines in industry for good reason(s). Anyway, you definitely have what we in the industry call "madd skillz" when it comes to building things, and I think it's awesome that you build stuff. You remind me of me, though you're way ahead of me on when you started welding. I used activated alumina for my desiccant. It's cheaper and, IIRC, a bit more effective, and it doesn't break apart when it gets really wet. It doesn't have the indicator but I personally prefer that, as the cobalt in the that is nasty stuff.
Somehow her videos popped up after searching how to weld. I have a daughter slightly older that hannah in these videos. Good job to mom and dad for raising a smart one 👏👍
Nice job! I have a long zig zag of copper pipe with drain valves after the compressor that gets rid of most of the moisture but I still want the air drier for plasma cutting and HVLP spraying. Your idea is just what I needed to keep from spending more time emptying the desiccant container than working. The one significant change I made was to use sintered bronze air mufflers for the filter instead of drilling holes in the pipe and using a screen. They are inexpensive and work well. Thanks again!
Amazing. This just put a whole lot of smile on my face. was just here to see how a desiccant dehumidifier looks like and was pleasantly surprised to see someone probably half my age able to make one by herself (when I have no idea even what it is). Love Love love.
If only my 16 year old son would be so enthusiastic in my work shop I have so much to teach him and would love to see him so confident in making projects like this, however mine is just a "Pipe dream" :-(. well done you !!
Just finding this in 2023 and sad to see you haven’t posted in six years. By far one of the most entertaining how-to’s out there. Subbed anyway in hopes that you will come back!
Wish my grandson had half you ambition young lady. Who ever is your mentor is an outstanding individual. I would say that in your not to distant future you will have many doors of opportunity open for you. Good luck.
Great video little lady! Just do not know what else to say. You already have talents and skills that old guys (and gals) envy. You will do well and already on your way! JJ
I forgot to give you a tip when using slip-joint tools. These tools work best when used in the same way a pipe-wrench is used. Apply the top of the tool so that the open side is pointed away from the direction of travel and the bottom part of the tool open side points toward the direction of travel. This applies to adjustable wrenches as well. This permits the work to be done more easily, prevents rounding of the fastener heads and prevents breakage of the tools. When fastening bolts and nuts; always turn the nut if possible. :-)
Extremely good vid, Hannah. the one thing I would caution you about, however, is leaving the key in your lathe's chuck. Sooner or later you will forget and leave the key in the chuck after you've tightened it on a workpiece. when you turn the lathe on, the key will either be thrown with considerable force or it will remain in the chuck and smash into the lathe ways, causing a lot of damage. Make a hanger for the key and develop the habit of always putting it there. Happy DIYing and stay safe!
My second attempt has lead me to a simple discovery. This time, I was able to properly size and seat the 3/4" inlet pipe and the 1/2" outlet pipe, but had not yet reached the step of gluing in the elbows. After staring at the 2" Tees for a bit, I considered rearranging them so the inlet and outlet stab out of the tops rather than the sides making the entire assembly resemble the letter "H". Further consideration of this lead me to find that a simple straight coupler, or not even cutting either of the inner pipes would make for a much more forgiving and simple assembly, so I will acquire the other parts I need and finish my build, then share my dryer once complete on a forum with photos and link back to this video both ways to pay my respect to Hannah for originally sharing such a great idea with us. I'm stoked and can't wait to dry some air!
@@robertmccully2792 I don't have it anymore, but made it and used it for about 6 months at 150 psi and it worked great. Just as long as you bake the silica beads when they get too moist, the PVC holds air well. I wouldn't use it in freezing conditions though, but otherwise, it's a great design.
That's a nice design on the drier ! I didn't know the drier beads could be regenerated, that saves a lot of $$$ ! I'd just add metal piping before the drier, sloped back to the compressor, to help condense water out of the air. Build a tip tools drip loop too, they work great. Make more videos :)
Fantastic video, great knowledge base. In order to minimise the safety issues with using pvc piping i would recommend using 1 or 2 pressure relief valves rated at 8 bar (100psi) (1 at the entrance and one at the exit). This is within the operating pressure according to ASTM D1785 for all your pipe tube diameters. The problem with PVC and in fact anything brittle is micro fracturing initiated by pressure cycling. So try to keep the pressure constant in the desiccant dryer you built and insert the pressure relief valves. Also don't use higher pressure than what is required for your project. 6-7 bar is more than enough. Again well done for the great explanation. I hope you are teaching this in school/university setting. A final word if the budget allows it its better to use metallic piping for this project it will literally be full proof for compressor use.
You go Girrrrl!!!! Your are brilliant and will swallow this world! Let me know if you have built any air cooling dry system solar powered or any low energy consumption dry way to stay cool in a 42C humidity summer! Apparently you are at least half way through 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hannah, at some point in your life, we’d all love an update. Did you finish the bug? Did something happen that prevented finishing? Was RUclips just a place you decided not to be as a young person? I still show your videos to my students at school as an encouragement, and it would be cool to have an end to the story (even if it didn’t go as planned, much of life doesn’t, and that’s a fantastic lesson for kids too).
you are doing a great job on your videos,, but I've been doing this stuff all my life and I really think your air dryer is dangerous you need to specify what pressure you are using because this will blow up eventually.please edit this video for safety reasons, but again your doing a great job and so far this is the only video that is just missing some very important info, keep up the great work you are an inspiration to other young people for sure.
My build of your idea is near complete, just have to wait for the clear sch. 40 to arrive in the mail. Some things I learned are as follows; 1) Definitely build each of the sides first before putting anything else together. I made the mistake of joining the 2 Tees together and building down to the Wye on the desiccant side before adding in the inner lines. Now I have to cut that back off, build the remaining 1/2" inners, then rejoin the 2" with a coupler to save the parts. 2) For those (like me) that don't have a lathe, I used a die grinder attachment on my little HF Dremel rotary tool to grind out the stops in the reducer caps. I also learned that the tapers needed to be sanded out, so I used plumber's abrasive mesh to gradually sand out the taper enough that I could work the respective pipes through, then I buffed the sanded surfaces smooth with the rotary tool's buffing pad. I think overall, this project will turn out good and function properly, so long as I don't get the PSI over 140, as that is Sch. 40 rated PSI. I'll let y'all know how things turn out for me, and THANK YOU Hannah for sharing this to your channel!!!
I think I discovered another mistake on my part, one that may be a costly learning experience, but I am coming to gain a deeper understanding of the difference between Schedule 40 and DWV PVC pipe. I believe it was Keith that questioned Hannah's choice to use a Tee and Elbow combo over use of a Wye, so I took it upon myself to blindly purchase the Wye. Now I come to find out DWV fittings aren't rated for PSI the way Schedule 40 is, if there is even a PSI rating. Further searching left me hard pressed to locate Sch 40 Wyes from Lowes or Home D. I found Sch 40 wyes on pvcfittingsonline.com for about $11, but that's much more than an elbow/tee combo from the big box stores. Also, many of my other parts are DWV (grrrrrrr). Lesson learned! Hannah, please share any insights you have regarding the difference b/c I still can't find much info about DWV aside from their obvious low pressure applications. TYIA!
Michael J, when I was designing my system, I looked for a y, but I also could not find one that was pressure rated and cheap. I decided to go with what I could easily find locally.
I found and used the Wye that was pressure rated and to be honest, I wish I used the 90° elbow. The 45° just doesn't allow for quick pouring the way a 90° would. The H layout works good and was way easier to build as no elbows were used internally. If I build another, I will be looking to use a + on the desiccant side to further simplify the design. My water trap doesn't collect any water, but I think I drilled too many holes in the 3/4" inlet pipe, but the desiccant side does collect a lot of water as I had to bake the desiccant twice already. The $15 desiccant I found in the art store for flower drying does have roughly 5-10% indicating beads, so it works the same as the all blue.
Hahaha! The ending...hahahah... Why in the world did I think it was so d**n funny when you said this was filmed in front of a live studio audience and flashed a scene with all of your stuffed animals. The feminine mind will _never_ cease to amaze me!
Great build, I think I'll make one myself. Cool that a tuber wrote out your list of parts. Zero offense here but when using Teflon tape you should roll it on the direction that the threads are being turned in. Three wraps in my experience is sufficient for air or water plumbing applications. If it's rolled on opposite of the rotation it has a tendency to unravel, wad up and not seal as well. It also looks professional when you're done. Looks like you could use a set of V-blocks for your drill press as well (for drilling round materials). HF carries cheap ones or you can make a set out of some hard wood. Lastly, if you're concerned in the future with laying out holes for perforating pipe for a certain percentage of flow, a good way to scribe or mark the divisions you've made is to lay a piece of angle on the side of the pipe. This serves as a cheap self centering straight edge. You could also use a height gauge. There are a million ways to do anything. Just a few tips that work for me.
monkfry, I think you have your Teflon tape comment backwards. If you have a clockwise thread, you tape in a counterclockwise fashion so that your Teflon doesn't back itself off the threads. This way as you tighten the fitting it wants to tighten the tape and not back off.
Yes he worded it wrong,but He was cottect in noticing that she wrapped it in the direction that would possibly ball it up as it was tightened.His thinking was right..,his wording was off.
Thanks Kieth Noneya. "prices". In new Zealand these prices are a dream. We pay depending on supplier 4 to 6 times what you pay . Good video even with the theatrics. I reglary watch your videos.
I really liked the how it works part of the vid. Hannah, you are correct in getting rid of the humidity to help control sand clumping and stopping up your blaster. However the real problem is that you are using sand. Some other medias don't have this problem. I usually spread the sand onto a tarp and leave in the sun to dry, then screen out the junk before using. If I am recycling the sand, I also screen out the fines into another bucket to use for finer sand. I assume that you are going to paint your VW and sand blasting cases problems here also. Fine dust buildup in crevices is common to all types of blasting and can cause the paint not to stick. If you get out your magnifying glass and closely examine the blasted surface you will see tiny grains of sand actually embedded in the metal Some say that this is silicon and will cause problems with some paints. Cure is to use sandpaper after blasting to knock these off. Now for the real problem with sand. I started to say this on one of the other videos, but I didn't. Sand dust causes silicosis. Irreversible and ultimately deadly. Google it. Some other medias don't. Blasting cabinets solve the problem by containing the dust. I assume that you are using a respirator under your hood The hood protects your eyes and skin but does nothing for your lungs. And it is hot. A solution that i like a lot better and that can also be used while welding, painting, or any time you need it, is outside positive air pressure. It involves an oil free air pump/fan, a long flexible hose fitted to your hood and set the pump some where where there is clean air. I set mine inside by the air conditioner/heater. I droop the hose down from the ceiling in the work area so it is out of my way. The positive pressure in the hood keeps the dust out, provides a cooling breeze across your head, and keeps the window from fogging. I tried to make a homemade one from 4" flex duct and a 4" fan but it didn't work too well and was cumbersome. So I bought one from ebay with a 120v tubine type fan and 100' of 3/4" light weight flex tubing and quick disconnect hood connectors. Works good but the fan is noisy in the house, so a remote switch to turn on and off is nice. About $250 10 years ago, $400 now, but you can easily spend 10 times that on better systems. I know its expensive, but worth it to my lungs and comfort. Can also be used to blow up air mattresses, boats, and beach toys quickly. Works pretty good for light dusting as well, not as good as an air line. Scuba compressor would work if you have one. This would be a good DIY project for you. You could run 1" pvc out to your work area/areas and then quick disconnect adaptors to your flex hose Google "positive pressure respirator system" Here is one similar to my cheap one www.ebay.com/bhp/supplied-air-respirator
Did miss a couple pieces like the 2" to 1.5" inside thread for the 1.5" cap can go inside I think... and the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter needs to have a 1/2 inside thread? Hope this list helps 1/2 PVC 24" EST. 3/4 PVC 24" EST. 2" PVC 48" EST. 2" CLEAR R4000 EST. 3 - 1/2 MIP to 3/8 FIP BRASS BUSHING - 3/4 TO 1/2 ADAPTER - 1/2 CAP - 1/2 THREAD COUPLING - 3/4 90 DEGREE ELBOW - 1/2 SLIP TO THREAD ADAPTER - 1/2 90 DEGREE ELBOW - 2" THREADED PLUG (OUTER THREAD) - 2" SLIP TO THREADED ADAPTER - 2" SLIP TO 1/2 THREADED BUSHING 3 - 2" TEE'S 2 - 2" COUPLINGS - 2" TO 1/2 SLIP BUSHING - 2" TO 3/4 SLIP BUSHING - 2" SLIP TO 1 1/2 THREAD BUSHING - 1 1/2" THREADED PLUG (OUTER THREADS) - 2" INSIDE TO 2" OUTSIDE 90 DEGREE ELBOW COUPLE PLASTIC TIES BRASS AIR TANK DRAIN VALVE FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREENING PVC PRIMER AND CEMENT INDICATING BEADS DESSICANT BAKE IN OVER 245 DEGREES COUPLE HOURS TO DRY OUT
Great Video, amazing tutorial. Water (moisture) in the paint is always my problem when doing an automotive painting for cars and bigbikes, perhaps I could invest on this project first before investing to a ready made one. I love doing projects, that's all, and I think this is one great project to build and try.
If you are looking to go even cheaper, the silica dessicant can be aquired at a grocery store as "Crystal" kitty litter. The more expensive stuff goes for around 12$/8lbs and has indicating beads spread throughout. I always have some on hand for making Sodium Silicate. Thanks for the idea, I needed a cheap drier for my E85 fuelling station build.
Those prices are super cheap here in Hawaii it would be double the price! You do very good work you're going to have your own TV show if you keep doing what you're doing mark my words
you explain everything very clearly, normally the "pizzazz" moments are distracting when people are doing DIY vids on youtube, but yours seemed well timed and gave me a second to analyze, letting me take it in so i could follow. keep up the videos!
Girl, you rock. You are going to humble every guy you encounter. I'm going to guess that one or both your parents are engineers and if you are not headed in that direction you should be. You all ready no more and better understand things that a lot of engineers I work with don't. Engineering needs more women .
Whoa! How old are you? I tried to mold my daughter to be just like you in the garage lol Needless to say she hated cars, Restoring them or anything to do with them but driving them. I tried making her but that didn't turn out too well. She is going to be a nurse now in college and I couldn't be more proud. BUT I just had a little girl again 10 days ago so I have another chance to have my little Tom Boy again!! I subscribed so can actually be schooled by your videos on ways to sandblast my classic. Go figure! I'm extremely impressed on your knowledge around the garage and tools. GREAT JOB ON YOUR VIDEOS!!! PS my first car was a 1973 Super Beetle. Loved it! Miss it!
CAUTION i made a drier like this and if you live in a cold climate when this is cold and you pressurize it it can ( mine did ) explode sharp pieces of pvc plastic
I live in the north east of the usa and in the winter it gets cold well below freezing it might not be an issue in australia it never got that cold when i was there
Anything that contains liquid water is going to weaken if that water is allowed to freeze. You'd need to empty the liquid water after each use in the winter.
That's exactly what I was worried about but when she said she was using pieces that where pressure rated thought it would be okay but then I don't know about the smaller fitting's and stuff I would not personally ever put plastic under air pressure.
Joey Brewer PVC is used under air pressure all the time. I had it in my former shop that sublet from a 20k sq ft wood working facility who ran a 25hp compressor through it and it worked fantastic. You do have to be careful not to impact it in any way while under pressure we had a fork lift get too close and it does explode when once it’s cracked. I wouldn’t call the pieces sharp but they were certainly flying everywhere. Ultimately it comes down to common sense use.
Excellent work, Hannah! Don't get too concerned with the "Safety Police" comments, yes, PVC can be dangerous at higher pressures, both gasses AND fluids, I have many years of healthy respect for PVC just blasting right out the ground or out of walls, HOWEVER, if you keep the pressures well below the rating for the schedule 40 AND locate your assembly out of direct sunlight and as far away from the working area of your shop as possible (some ¾ inch plywood shielding would be preferable, too), it should serve you well throughout your project. Okay, now the important question: Are we ever going to get to see Episodes 6, & 7? Tell Bernoulli to get on that editing!
The "safety police" only want people to understand the issues with using pvc for pressurized air applications before someone gets hurt. There was no mention in the video of the potential for bursting (even at only 90 psi) regardless of pressure rating, if the piping is compromised. Since the video made no mention of the hazards, one would assume the author is unaware of the potential danger. To ignore, or underestimate the danger could be fatal. Who knows, this discussion may have saved a life. Do some research; you will find that no pvc pipe/fitting manufacturer will recommend their product for pressurized air applications. The fact that the operator may not be in the area of the blast will be of little help if someone else, or a pet, are injured. So please, before you knock the "safety police" consider the consequences of an accident involving people that may not be aware of the dangers and blindly follow a video to build a potential bomb.
I actually agree with you Rob, AND with drb52photo on this one. Standing near this when it fails would certainly be a terrible way to die, so I probably should have spent some time discussing the safety issues with PVC in the video. Keep in mind that pressurized equipment always carries some risk (especially if you are using older equipment in order to save money.) Describing it as a "potential bomb" at 90 PSI is a bit overblown - the energies we are discussing are nowhere near bomb-like. However if it were to fail while your face was near you could certainly lose your ear drums, the shards would have enough energy if you were standing within a few feet to penetrate your skin pretty deeply, and they could damage your eyes within 15 to 20 feet.
Love these videos... and the fact that a parent is so interactive with their child. You both give me hope for the future of society. Very Cool and thank you.
this message is for dad ,,,sir you have done a fantastic job i tip my hat to you
Or Mom, but of course Both!
My tool room has had PVC air lines for 7 years. Look at the pressure ratings. More than you will ever see in an air system.
PVC is not a problem for air lines except in certain environments PVC gets brittle over time as the oils leave the pipe.. It will then shatter or burst at the weak point usually a fitting screwed into the pipe to accept a hose . Use at least SCH 40 or heavier. Where I live I can take a piece of 3/4 PVC that's over 5 years old and it will shatter when being cut with a PVC cutter unless you use a saw. If it's starting to look dull and faded it's getting old. I have a friend who has sch 40 PVC in his shop for over 20 years... NO PROBLEM. He painted it and it's still working and he does bodywork. But just be aware.
Schedule 40 pvc is good at room temp for 160psi. Not a good choice to save a few bucks.
A few bucks???
Just another grown man with an engineering degree learning about air dryers. Don't mind me.
Tech ingredients did an amazing explanation behind them with his two systems
SAMMMMME MAN
haha
because unfortunatly the macho shows like kindigit garage and the gas monkey doesnt show us how to do this stuff we have to reduce ourselves to learning from a 14 year old girl. lol. im confident with my manhood though, my wife just walked by my office and i proudly said hey honey, look at whos teaching me to make a decident drier for my compresser. lol. true story.
@@bullshipcharters ha
This young person has such a super cool way about her. If I have had a rough day at the office l come and watch her and feel better in no time. This girl is a winner. I am a very big fan. I just don't know what I am going to watch when she gets her bug done???
Hannah I don't why you haven't posted more videos but if you can it would be gratefully appreciated. You give a lot of people a lot of help and for that I thank you. Never let the haters stop you just delete their comments and carry on. I still want to know what happened with your bug good or bad. We all learn something even from failure so carry on and love all 13 of your videos.
Nice work, Hannah! My daughter Nika is super excited to see you working on your car. She's 8 years old and likes to work on projects too. She said "I'm a mini-version of her!"
Looking forward to seeing more as you make progress and hope you are enjoying your summer!
Sincerely,
Tom (and Nika) Z
Kiddo, you're a better mechanic than many of the guys and gals I worked with building airplanes! Great job!
Impressive, great job, as a father with 4 daughters that all are just like you, your dad should be proud.
For those who are concerned about Explosions ... You could make a 3/4 inch plywood frame around the outside (top, sides, NO bottom) and a 3/4 inch plywood door on hinges to open when you want to work on it or change desiccant. If it were to blow it would blow all the chips out the bottom onto the floor not causing anyone any injury (or hardly any).
or you could just use steel pipe....or buy an engin-nerded part
I love your alls safty advice, thank you
or just check the burst ratings and discover 140psi is the standard operating pressure theyre engineered too.
@Chairman of the Board I imagine that is true. but schedule 80 PVC has a max working pressure of 340 psi - that would be a 300% over rated. I worked in the woodworking industry for 15 years starting in high school and I never saw a PVC rupture and yet it was used all over the facility. so what is your experience? have you ever seen PVC rupture carrying 100-120 psi air?
Mine just exploded this morning, wear and tear over five years of use in a machine-shop setting. It's not the values the materials are rated for but the stresses introduced every time the media is changed , I think, that caused it. Luckily no one was in that room when it happened. Going to have a sheet of plywood in front of the next one!
I'm gonna build this and put some mesh around the tube in case it explodes (even though Thor disagrees). I love your channel, Hannah! I've learned a lot from you. Thanks!!
I like working with pvc too! Here's a tip... When inserting your glued piece into its mating surface, start a 1/4 turn off center and insert it straight then give it the 1/4 turn to center. This twist helps seal the parts... Good video!
Inspiring to see someone so young doing these sorts of projects.
This and your video on slaving multiple air compressors are worth twice the price of admission! Keep on Keepin' On, Young Blood! Girl Power!
Great Video, love your enthusiasm! You should put a list of all the items with lengths you used in the comments on the video. Great to see a young lady doing these type of videos (I know years ago) but I have a 4 yr old daughter that I hope one day will have the same interest and knowledge that she and daddy can create some interesting, educational, valuable videos like this! Thanks!
Amazes me how some men on here are scared a young lady can teach them something, Hannah you are awesome keep up the good work, happy to see you can share your knowledge with others, keep it up you have a fan here !
Very inspirational work, Hannah! Please give us an update on how well your Air Dryer works.
With regard to PVC as a containment vessel, industrial users with which I have worked are concerned about the pulsations caused by on/off air releases causing micro-fractures in the plastic pipe which eventually cause ruptures and explosions. Just an FYI. Keep up the good work!
Schedule 80 PVC is more resistant to those micro fractures. It doubles the wall thickness. Love the idea. Trying it myself with this minor mod (Sch 80)
Nice work, and excellent foresight including prices for each item. Now we can see how much we're getting screwed with plumbing supplies!
Hannah, when can we expected to hear/learn more from you. Good job!👍
I wish i had a teenage kid this productive, creative, and brilliant!!! she is such a cool character
Very nice project Hannah. I love how you explain what you're doing as you go, as it is fun and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing and keep u the good work!
Very good job to the girl making it & the parent(s) to help her do it. Wish there was more families out there that could do things together like this & kids that want to learn with their hands and not electronics. Might have to make one for my air compressor & see how well it works.
Just saw a couple of your videos for the first time. I made a desiccant drier for my compressor with galvanized steel pipe. It isn't as snazzy as yours but it does the job. I don't want to be That Guy but it really is fairly dangerous to make this out of PVC. Ignoring anything else, PVC is far more likely to break if, say, something falls on it. Combine that with the pressure behind it and it gets ugly. You never see PVC being used for air lines in industry for good reason(s).
Anyway, you definitely have what we in the industry call "madd skillz" when it comes to building things, and I think it's awesome that you build stuff. You remind me of me, though you're way ahead of me on when you started welding.
I used activated alumina for my desiccant. It's cheaper and, IIRC, a bit more effective, and it doesn't break apart when it gets really wet. It doesn't have the indicator but I personally prefer that, as the cobalt in the that is nasty stuff.
I see sch 40 pipes for air systems in most of the commercial garages I go into.
Somehow her videos popped up after searching how to weld. I have a daughter slightly older that hannah in these videos. Good job to mom and dad for raising a smart one 👏👍
Nice job! I have a long zig zag of copper pipe with drain valves after the compressor that gets rid of most of the moisture but I still want the air drier for plasma cutting and HVLP spraying. Your idea is just what I needed to keep from spending more time emptying the desiccant container than working. The one significant change I made was to use sintered bronze air mufflers for the filter instead of drilling holes in the pipe and using a screen. They are inexpensive and work well. Thanks again!
So after six years of use, how has it worked out? Would you change anything if you did it again?
Amazing. This just put a whole lot of smile on my face. was just here to see how a desiccant dehumidifier looks like and was pleasantly surprised to see someone probably half my age able to make one by herself (when I have no idea even what it is). Love Love love.
Can't wait to show my six-year-old daughter your channel keep up the good work !!!
If only my 16 year old son would be so enthusiastic in my work shop I have so much to teach him and would love to see him so confident in making projects like this, however mine is just a "Pipe dream" :-(. well done you !!
Just finding this in 2023 and sad to see you haven’t posted in six years. By far one of the most entertaining how-to’s out there. Subbed anyway in hopes that you will come back!
Hannah you have done a great job in making and explaining how to build an Air Dryer for your compressor. Great job :-)
Wish my grandson had half you ambition young lady. Who ever is your mentor is an outstanding individual. I would say that in your not to distant future you will have many doors of opportunity open for you. Good luck.
Great video little lady! Just do not know what else to say. You already have talents and skills that old guys (and gals) envy. You will do well and already on your way! JJ
I forgot to give you a tip when using slip-joint tools. These tools work best when used in the same way a pipe-wrench is used. Apply the top of the tool so that the open side is pointed away from the direction of travel and the bottom part of the tool open side points toward the direction of travel. This applies to adjustable wrenches as well. This permits the work to be done more easily, prevents rounding of the fastener heads and prevents breakage of the tools. When fastening bolts and nuts; always turn the nut if possible. :-)
Finally got mine built. This girl is talented. Love when,she says FREEEEE!
As an EE student, I think this channel needs more multivariable calculus.
wouldn't care if it worked,the presentation was worth the watch.the fact that it does work was a bonus
aaaaaaaand,,,,, she can also do some machining!!! god bless whomever raised you young woman
Extremely good vid, Hannah. the one thing I would caution you about, however, is leaving the key in your lathe's chuck. Sooner or later you will forget and leave the key in the chuck after you've tightened it on a workpiece. when you turn the lathe on, the key will either be thrown with considerable force or it will remain in the chuck and smash into the lathe ways, causing a lot of damage. Make a hanger for the key and develop the habit of always putting it there. Happy DIYing and stay safe!
Amazing job! I own a 2001 Mexican beetle, which is one of the last beetles made. I love your videos, keep it up!
My second attempt has lead me to a simple discovery. This time, I was able to properly size and seat the 3/4" inlet pipe and the 1/2" outlet pipe, but had not yet reached the step of gluing in the elbows. After staring at the 2" Tees for a bit, I considered rearranging them so the inlet and outlet stab out of the tops rather than the sides making the entire assembly resemble the letter "H". Further consideration of this lead me to find that a simple straight coupler, or not even cutting either of the inner pipes would make for a much more forgiving and simple assembly, so I will acquire the other parts I need and finish my build, then share my dryer once complete on a forum with photos and link back to this video both ways to pay my respect to Hannah for originally sharing such a great idea with us. I'm stoked and can't wait to dry some air!
lets see your air dryer completed,, does it work? Good idea on the straight in and out thoughts,,in my case there build at right angle makes sense.
@@robertmccully2792 I don't have it anymore, but made it and used it for about 6 months at 150 psi and it worked great. Just as long as you bake the silica beads when they get too moist, the PVC holds air well. I wouldn't use it in freezing conditions though, but otherwise, it's a great design.
Michael J how long did it take before silica gets to wet, do you remember?
@@robertmccully2792 depends how wet your air is. There's no way to answer that other than experience it.
First off good luck on the bug rebuild. Your father/mother taught you well about doing things safely. I look forward to your next vid.
How did this little girl get so SMart ? She has helped me out several times ... Love your videos ..
Nice job Hannah. You have things under control. Good day too.
That's a nice design on the drier ! I didn't know the drier beads could be regenerated, that saves a lot of $$$ !
I'd just add metal piping before the drier, sloped back to the compressor, to help condense water out of the air.
Build a tip tools drip loop too, they work great. Make more videos :)
Fantastic video, great knowledge base. In order to minimise the safety issues with using pvc piping i would recommend using 1 or 2 pressure relief valves rated at 8 bar (100psi) (1 at the entrance and one at the exit). This is within the operating pressure according to ASTM D1785 for all your pipe tube diameters. The problem with PVC and in fact anything brittle is micro fracturing initiated by pressure cycling. So try to keep the pressure constant in the desiccant dryer you built and insert the pressure relief valves. Also don't use higher pressure than what is required for your project. 6-7 bar is more than enough. Again well done for the great explanation. I hope you are teaching this in school/university setting. A final word if the budget allows it its better to use metallic piping for this project it will literally be full proof for compressor use.
PVC handles hundreds of PSI and is an excellent and safe, as well as affordable DIY solution.
Thanks for sharing this. I'll hopefully get to make one someday. You seem very comfortable in front of the camera. Best wishes,
Jim
Nice sandals, i like your presentation i think you are a little star in the making!!
A result of great parenting... Great job dad and young lady...
Seems like this kid going to school not for learning, but for learn teachers how thinks works. Congrats to father!
You go Girrrrl!!!! Your are brilliant and will swallow this world!
Let me know if you have built any air cooling dry system solar powered or any low energy consumption dry way to stay cool in a 42C humidity summer!
Apparently you are at least half way through 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Nicely done. This is 7 years old, what are you doing now?
This build started going a different direction than what I was looking to do... but you ma'am, are hilarious.
great videos. I teach a high school shop class and I will share this with my students.
Hannah, at some point in your life, we’d all love an update. Did you finish the bug? Did something happen that prevented finishing? Was RUclips just a place you decided not to be as a young person? I still show your videos to my students at school as an encouragement, and it would be cool to have an end to the story (even if it didn’t go as planned, much of life doesn’t, and that’s a fantastic lesson for kids too).
Clever ticking high pressure pipe bomb you made there buddy. 👍.
AWESOME video! We may construct this DIRT CHEAP device for our brewery to dry the air powering our keg cleaner! Cheers!
Built mine following her directions. This thing is amazing. Work perfect.
your poppa and or mama must be soooo proud of you keep it up girl!
Hannah your wonderful!! Thank's for teaching an old dog a new trick.
you are doing a great job on your videos,, but I've been doing this stuff all my life and I really think your air dryer is dangerous you need to specify what pressure you are using because this will blow up eventually.please edit this video for safety reasons, but again your doing a great job and so far this is the only video that is just missing some very important info, keep up the great work you are an inspiration to other young people for sure.
GIRL POWER! Great videos. Sorry you stopped making them. Subscribed for just in case. Aloha
My build of your idea is near complete, just have to wait for the clear sch. 40 to arrive in the mail. Some things I learned are as follows;
1) Definitely build each of the sides first before putting anything else together. I made the mistake of joining the 2 Tees together and building down to the Wye on the desiccant side before adding in the inner lines. Now I have to cut that back off, build the remaining 1/2" inners, then rejoin the 2" with a coupler to save the parts.
2) For those (like me) that don't have a lathe, I used a die grinder attachment on my little HF Dremel rotary tool to grind out the stops in the reducer caps. I also learned that the tapers needed to be sanded out, so I used plumber's abrasive mesh to gradually sand out the taper enough that I could work the respective pipes through, then I buffed the sanded surfaces smooth with the rotary tool's buffing pad.
I think overall, this project will turn out good and function properly, so long as I don't get the PSI over 140, as that is Sch. 40 rated PSI. I'll let y'all know how things turn out for me, and THANK YOU Hannah for sharing this to your channel!!!
I think I discovered another mistake on my part, one that may be a costly learning experience, but I am coming to gain a deeper understanding of the difference between Schedule 40 and DWV PVC pipe. I believe it was Keith that questioned Hannah's choice to use a Tee and Elbow combo over use of a Wye, so I took it upon myself to blindly purchase the Wye. Now I come to find out DWV fittings aren't rated for PSI the way Schedule 40 is, if there is even a PSI rating. Further searching left me hard pressed to locate Sch 40 Wyes from Lowes or Home D. I found Sch 40 wyes on pvcfittingsonline.com for about $11, but that's much more than an elbow/tee combo from the big box stores. Also, many of my other parts are DWV (grrrrrrr). Lesson learned! Hannah, please share any insights you have regarding the difference b/c I still can't find much info about DWV aside from their obvious low pressure applications. TYIA!
Michael J, when I was designing my system, I looked for a y, but I also could not find one that was pressure rated and cheap. I decided to go with what I could easily find locally.
I found and used the Wye that was pressure rated and to be honest, I wish I used the 90° elbow. The 45° just doesn't allow for quick pouring the way a 90° would. The H layout works good and was way easier to build as no elbows were used internally. If I build another, I will be looking to use a + on the desiccant side to further simplify the design. My water trap doesn't collect any water, but I think I drilled too many holes in the 3/4" inlet pipe, but the desiccant side does collect a lot of water as I had to bake the desiccant twice already. The $15 desiccant I found in the art store for flower drying does have roughly 5-10% indicating beads, so it works the same as the all blue.
I like your design a lot! I'm going to make one of these myself. Awesome idea!!
im going to build this for my sand blast cabinet. thanks for the upload!
your shop skills are for real and everytime you dropped those fittings i started laughing .
Hahaha! The ending...hahahah... Why in the world did I think it was so d**n funny when you said this was filmed in front of a live studio audience and flashed a scene with all of your stuffed animals. The feminine mind will _never_ cease to amaze me!
I would love to see a picture of your Bug! and Congrads on your Skills. Breath of fresh air.
You just saved me from buying that same dryer to use with my sandblaster. Thank you very much 👍
Great build, I think I'll make one myself. Cool that a tuber wrote out your list of parts. Zero offense here but when using Teflon tape you should roll it on the direction that the threads are being turned in. Three wraps in my experience is sufficient for air or water plumbing applications. If it's rolled on opposite of the rotation it has a tendency to unravel, wad up and not seal as well. It also looks professional when you're done. Looks like you could use a set of V-blocks for your drill press as well (for drilling round materials). HF carries cheap ones or you can make a set out of some hard wood. Lastly, if you're concerned in the future with laying out holes for perforating pipe for a certain percentage of flow, a good way to scribe or mark the divisions you've made is to lay a piece of angle on the side of the pipe. This serves as a cheap self centering straight edge. You could also use a height gauge. There are a million ways to do anything. Just a few tips that work for me.
monkfry, I think you have your Teflon tape comment backwards. If you have a clockwise thread, you tape in a counterclockwise fashion so that your Teflon doesn't back itself off the threads. This way as you tighten the fitting it wants to tighten the tape and not back off.
Yes he worded it wrong,but He was cottect in noticing that she wrapped it in the direction that would possibly ball it up as it was tightened.His thinking was right..,his wording was off.
Our warehouse is in Jinan, it only takes less than 10 days from the time you place the order to the delivery to you.
Thanks Kieth Noneya. "prices". In new Zealand these prices are a dream. We pay depending on supplier 4 to 6 times what you pay . Good video even with the theatrics. I reglary watch your videos.
I really liked the how it works part of the vid.
Hannah, you are correct in getting rid of the humidity to help control sand clumping and stopping up your blaster. However the real problem is that you are using sand. Some other medias don't have this problem.
I usually spread the sand onto a tarp and leave in the sun to dry, then screen out the junk before using. If I am recycling the sand, I also screen out the fines into another bucket to use for finer sand. I assume that you are going to paint your VW and sand blasting cases problems here also. Fine dust buildup in crevices is common to all types of blasting and can cause the paint not to stick. If you get out your magnifying glass and closely examine the blasted surface you will see tiny grains of sand actually embedded in the metal Some say that this is silicon and will cause problems with some paints. Cure is to use sandpaper after blasting to knock these off.
Now for the real problem with sand. I started to say this on one of the other videos, but I didn't. Sand dust causes silicosis. Irreversible and ultimately deadly. Google it. Some other medias don't.
Blasting cabinets solve the problem by containing the dust.
I assume that you are using a respirator under your hood The hood protects your eyes and skin but does nothing for your lungs. And it is hot. A solution that i like a lot better and that can also be used while welding, painting, or any time you need it, is outside positive air pressure. It involves an oil free air pump/fan, a long flexible hose fitted to your hood and set the pump some where where there is clean air. I set mine inside by the air conditioner/heater. I droop the hose down from the ceiling in the work area so it is out of my way. The positive pressure in the hood keeps the dust out, provides a cooling breeze across your head, and keeps the window from fogging.
I tried to make a homemade one from 4" flex duct and a 4" fan but it didn't work too well and was cumbersome. So I bought one from ebay with a 120v tubine type fan and 100' of 3/4" light weight flex tubing and quick disconnect hood connectors. Works good but the fan is noisy in the house, so a remote switch to turn on and off is nice. About $250 10 years ago, $400 now, but you can easily spend 10 times that on better systems. I know its expensive, but worth it to my lungs and comfort. Can also be used to blow up air mattresses, boats, and beach toys quickly. Works pretty good for light dusting as well, not as good as an air line. Scuba compressor would work if you have one. This would be a good DIY project for you. You could run 1" pvc out to your work area/areas and then quick disconnect adaptors to your flex hose
Google "positive pressure respirator system" Here is one similar to my cheap one
www.ebay.com/bhp/supplied-air-respirator
Love your enthusiasm and way you presented. Very well done. Your charisma makes me want to learn more! P.s Chris only lives down the road from us :-P
Keep it up kid, you'll go far with that attitude and brain!
I enjoyed your video and learned something!
Nice presentation. The comments about PVC being unsafe are correct. It embrittles and the shards can be very dangerous
Awesome. Now I need to go spend hundreds of dollars on power tools to make this stuff. Good job kid, hats off to the parents.
HANNAH U R AWESOME ,DONT ALLOW ANYONE TO DISCOURAGE U .UARE A FUTURE TESLA U HAVE NO LIMITS,DONT LET ANYONE SAY U DO .UR THE COOLEST
I love seeing kid engineers keep up the good work hope you are at SpaceX or tesla one day. Also turn the channel locks over
That kid is a hoot, and well informed. Enjoyed the video.
Very Very entertaining and I bet you are driving that buggy to college by now.
Did miss a couple pieces like the 2" to 1.5" inside thread for the 1.5" cap can go inside I think... and the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter needs to have a 1/2 inside thread?
Hope this list helps
1/2 PVC 24" EST.
3/4 PVC 24" EST.
2" PVC 48" EST.
2" CLEAR R4000 EST.
3 - 1/2 MIP to 3/8 FIP BRASS BUSHING
- 3/4 TO 1/2 ADAPTER
- 1/2 CAP
- 1/2 THREAD COUPLING
- 3/4 90 DEGREE ELBOW
- 1/2 SLIP TO THREAD ADAPTER
- 1/2 90 DEGREE ELBOW
- 2" THREADED PLUG (OUTER THREAD)
- 2" SLIP TO THREADED ADAPTER
- 2" SLIP TO 1/2 THREADED BUSHING
3 - 2" TEE'S
2 - 2" COUPLINGS
- 2" TO 1/2 SLIP BUSHING
- 2" TO 3/4 SLIP BUSHING
- 2" SLIP TO 1 1/2 THREAD BUSHING
- 1 1/2" THREADED PLUG (OUTER THREADS)
- 2" INSIDE TO 2" OUTSIDE 90 DEGREE ELBOW
COUPLE PLASTIC TIES
BRASS AIR TANK DRAIN VALVE
FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREENING
PVC PRIMER AND CEMENT
INDICATING BEADS DESSICANT BAKE IN OVER 245 DEGREES COUPLE HOURS TO DRY OUT
Great Video, amazing tutorial. Water (moisture) in the paint is always my problem when doing an automotive painting for cars and bigbikes, perhaps I could invest on this project first before investing to a ready made one. I love doing projects, that's all, and I think this is one great project to build and try.
Chams Hamis Just buy a motor guard filter
If you are looking to go even cheaper, the silica dessicant can be aquired at a grocery store as "Crystal" kitty litter. The more expensive stuff goes for around 12$/8lbs and has indicating beads spread throughout.
I always have some on hand for making Sodium Silicate. Thanks for the idea, I needed a cheap drier for my E85 fuelling station build.
You are bad ass! I work for castair in Mn , air makes the world go round n round
Those prices are super cheap here in Hawaii it would be double the price! You do very good work you're going to have your own TV show if you keep doing what you're doing mark my words
great vid !!! good thing your reading from a card to keep everything organized
well young lady ........... I'm impressed ........... nice job
you explain everything very clearly, normally the "pizzazz" moments are distracting when people are doing DIY vids on youtube, but yours seemed well timed and gave me a second to analyze, letting me take it in so i could follow. keep up the videos!
Many clever ideas implemented in this thing. Good job.
Girl, you rock. You are going to humble every guy you encounter. I'm going to guess that one or both your parents are engineers and if you are not headed in that direction you should be. You all ready no more and better understand things that a lot of engineers I work with don't. Engineering needs more women .
Are you smoking crack?????
Engineering needs only qualified people. Gender has nothing to do with it, you freak.
It's about MERIT not gender! Stop being a leftist.
Ok kid, I'm gonna build it, only it will live in a cabinet in my garage, in case she can't take the pressure, good presentation, funny as well!
Good Job Young Lady. For those of you who are afraid of PVC, this can be made from Copper with the proper fittings.
Just found your channel. Cool. Be careful with the air dryer. Don't want an explosion.
Whoa! How old are you? I tried to mold my daughter to be just like you in the garage lol Needless to say she hated cars, Restoring them or anything to do with them but driving them. I tried making her but that didn't turn out too well. She is going to be a nurse now in college and I couldn't be more proud. BUT I just had a little girl again 10 days ago so I have another chance to have my little Tom Boy again!! I subscribed so can actually be schooled by your videos on ways to sandblast my classic. Go figure! I'm extremely impressed on your knowledge around the garage and tools. GREAT JOB ON YOUR VIDEOS!!!
PS my first car was a 1973 Super Beetle. Loved it! Miss it!
CAUTION i made a drier like this and if you live in a cold climate when this is cold and you pressurize it it can ( mine did ) explode sharp pieces of pvc plastic
vin rap How cold is cold? 50 degrees F, 32 degrees F, or 0 degrees F? Would just like a verification. Thanks!
I live in the north east of the usa and in the winter it gets cold well below freezing it might not be an issue in australia it never got that cold when i was there
Anything that contains liquid water is going to weaken if that water is allowed to freeze. You'd need to empty the liquid water after each use in the winter.
That's exactly what I was worried about but when she said she was using pieces that where pressure rated thought it would be okay but then I don't know about the smaller fitting's and stuff I would not personally ever put plastic under air pressure.
Joey Brewer PVC is used under air pressure all the time. I had it in my former shop that sublet from a 20k sq ft wood working facility who ran a 25hp compressor through it and it worked fantastic. You do have to be careful not to impact it in any way while under pressure we had a fork lift get too close and it does explode when once it’s cracked. I wouldn’t call the pieces sharp but they were certainly flying everywhere. Ultimately it comes down to common sense use.
Omg. First video of you I've seen and you're awesome. Very articulate and informative
I need to meet this woman
Very good job well thought out. good video
Ha! Schrodinger is the best name for a cat! Maybe he'll be the only cat on earth who doesn't like sitting in boxes
Excellent work, Hannah! Don't get too concerned with the "Safety Police" comments, yes, PVC can be dangerous at higher pressures, both gasses AND fluids, I have many years of healthy respect for PVC just blasting right out the ground or out of walls, HOWEVER, if you keep the pressures well below the rating for the schedule 40 AND locate your assembly out of direct sunlight and as far away from the working area of your shop as possible (some ¾ inch plywood shielding would be preferable, too), it should serve you well throughout your project.
Okay, now the important question: Are we ever going to get to see Episodes 6, & 7? Tell Bernoulli to get on that editing!
The "safety police" only want people to understand the issues with using pvc for pressurized air applications before someone gets hurt. There was no mention in the video of the potential for bursting (even at only 90 psi) regardless of pressure rating, if the piping is compromised. Since the video made no mention of the hazards, one would assume the author is unaware of the potential danger. To ignore, or underestimate the danger could be fatal. Who knows, this discussion may have saved a life. Do some research; you will find that no pvc pipe/fitting manufacturer will recommend their product for pressurized air applications. The fact that the operator may not be in the area of the blast will be of little help if someone else, or a pet, are injured. So please, before you knock the "safety police" consider the consequences of an accident involving people that may not be aware of the dangers and blindly follow a video to build a potential bomb.
I actually agree with you Rob, AND with drb52photo on this one. Standing near this when it fails would certainly be a terrible way to die, so I probably should have spent some time discussing the safety issues with PVC in the video. Keep in mind that pressurized equipment always carries some risk (especially if you are using older equipment in order to save money.) Describing it as a "potential bomb" at 90 PSI is a bit overblown - the energies we are discussing are nowhere near bomb-like. However if it were to fail while your face was near you could certainly lose your ear drums, the shards would have enough energy if you were standing within a few feet to penetrate your skin pretty deeply, and they could damage your eyes within 15 to 20 feet.
Impressive!! This video gives me hope for the future. Keen it up