A rather focusing warm-up climb with about 40 feet of runout before some decent protection. Annie Oh! 5.8+ in the Shawangunks, New York is a quality line with thoughtful movement on everything from overhang to slab. Delicate moves and lasered technique will bring you to the top with a smile on your face.
@@arduouspaths the finish is actually not slabby! it is scrunchy and awkward with a super high right foot move in a no hands wall press thing. makes you wish it was slabby...
lmao I love you walking back and forth on the ledge looking around "Sure would be nice if I could place some pro at some point on this fucking route....well onwards and upwards"
@@arduouspaths the flake with the stuck alien that you place gear behind ~ 26:45 is incredibly hollow. as you pan back and forth around 28:00, you can see that there's a crack on the left side of it, as well as being detached at the bottom, top, and right... that's a death placement waiting to happen
@@chapeaux110 hmm got it. If I'm ever back on the route however unlikely, I'll have to give that flake a good inspection. Thanks for pointing that out. So much to learn...
p.s. I just took a gander at your vids. I remember that last move on Tiers of Fear I almost laughed myself off the wall at what an f-you of a move it was hahah. You took it down so casually. I had to psaat like a madman
Did you find 20:10 to 23:15 run out? I visited the gunks years ago and took a big whipper on that section. I'm a stronger climber now, but always wondered if there was a better way to protect it and not get hurt if you pop off. Looking back at your video, i think I got off route and stayed too far left. I recall the climbing feeling very thin.
it's been a while since I climbed this climb but I don't remember the climbing at that part being that difficult, definitely got some good flats to pull on. Perhaps indeed you came in too far left?
@@arduouspaths Aw yea nice, I tried it last weekend and I was too pumped to the dyno but after resting I nailed it first try so I gotta go back and put it together
I started thinking it was runout before you even started saying anything. Then you started dancing back and forth on the leaves and brush sitting on top of small 3" ledges. Listening to the crunch sounds was making me nervous, then when you finally found the tree I was so relieved.
A rather focusing warm-up climb with about 40 feet of runout before some decent protection. Annie Oh! 5.8+ in the Shawangunks, New York is a quality line with thoughtful movement on everything from overhang to slab. Delicate moves and lasered technique will bring you to the top with a smile on your face.
Looks like you exited on Limelight. If you stick left definitely gives it the 5.8+ finish. Left of that last piece
I think my partner came up that way and I was scratching my head how she did it. Super slabby, right?
@@arduouspaths the finish is actually not slabby! it is scrunchy and awkward with a super high right foot move in a no hands wall press thing. makes you wish it was slabby...
lmao I love you walking back and forth on the ledge looking around "Sure would be nice if I could place some pro at some point on this fucking route....well onwards and upwards"
I should have read the description on mountain project. Warns you of the 40 foot runout. The stupid GunksApp sometimes is so lacking.
@@arduouspaths Well you handled it better than I would have, I would've been shitting myself haha.
back in the Gunks!! glad to see a new video too. Keep sending!
aw thanks man!
Two cams in the bongo flake. Yikes!
which one is the bongo flake? Is it notoriously wrong to protect it?
@@arduouspaths the flake with the stuck alien that you place gear behind ~ 26:45 is incredibly hollow. as you pan back and forth around 28:00, you can see that there's a crack on the left side of it, as well as being detached at the bottom, top, and right... that's a death placement waiting to happen
@@chapeaux110 hmm got it. If I'm ever back on the route however unlikely, I'll have to give that flake a good inspection. Thanks for pointing that out. So much to learn...
p.s. I just took a gander at your vids. I remember that last move on Tiers of Fear I almost laughed myself off the wall at what an f-you of a move it was hahah. You took it down so casually. I had to psaat like a madman
Yes, it's the one mentioned by @chapeaux110. The seam above the detached flakes takes a few good brassies.
Did you find 20:10 to 23:15 run out? I visited the gunks years ago and took a big whipper on that section. I'm a stronger climber now, but always wondered if there was a better way to protect it and not get hurt if you pop off. Looking back at your video, i think I got off route and stayed too far left. I recall the climbing feeling very thin.
it's been a while since I climbed this climb but I don't remember the climbing at that part being that difficult, definitely got some good flats to pull on. Perhaps indeed you came in too far left?
Could you protect off the trees towards the bottom?
it's been a while so I'm uncertain, but MP description does list the beginning as 5.4 R so perhaps not
Get on Ape Call 5.8 fun beginning with no gear! And great fun roof pull! Just did it today
I got on the sting I couldnt do the end dyno :(
@@arduouspaths Aw yea nice, I tried it last weekend and I was too pumped to the dyno but after resting I nailed it first try so I gotta go back and put it together
it's like i am climbing
Omg so fake
alternative sends
I started thinking it was runout before you even started saying anything. Then you started dancing back and forth on the leaves and brush sitting on top of small 3" ledges. Listening to the crunch sounds was making me nervous, then when you finally found the tree I was so relieved.
haha yes im sure the poor tiny tree was not relieved. Thanks for watching