Personally it reminds me of that scene from Mrs browns boys where the doc asks for a pee and poo sample from grandad and she says he wants your underpants 💀
Always a "voyage of discovery", and gives me an excuse for my comprehensive parts collection. Along with the "if I can't fix it, I'll see if I can re-engineer it".
We use a couple of Peltier-effect dehumidifiers in a small motor/mechanical cabin at the observatory. During the peak summer months, they pull about 2L/week out of the air in there. We have a larger conventional dehumidifier in another part of the "stack" which does most of the work. While the little Peltier-based units aren't terribly efficient, they require no maintenance and just keep on trucking. For our application, the desiccant ones would just be too much work.
So funny. UK people get excited over the smallest skidmark in their shortcircuited gadgets. Come to mainland Europe, where we do not have those pesky 3A fuses in the plugs. Over in Europe, the short circuit will be able to dissipate much more energy before the 16A circuit breaker pops.
Looks like the plastic supports in the corners have melted and carbonized and provided a conductive path to start the flashover... I would bet that if you had a new one and either cut off those supports or put a bit of heat resistant kapton over the plastic that the heater would have a much longer lifespan.. For heaters that have already been used, you might be able to disassemble them with somewhat more care than you exhibited in this video, and either sand/scrape/chemically dissolve the melted plastic and then perform one of the steps above to keep the plastic from melting onto the element..
Watch out for plastic ESD assortment bins... some (most?) are made from a slightly conductive plastic mix so when they hang of the (1Mohm grounded) metal rack all ESD is dissipated in a controlled fashion... however I took one bin off rack and brought it with me deeper into the lab: After a few 10 minutes or so of "too little thinking - more measurements"... with the incidental contact with 400V it started to bzzz... BZZZZ!! SNAP! CRACKLE! SMOKE! Microarcs! 😆 oh dear! (no POP, the voltage amplifier was just doing it's thang, happily feeds no less than 3kW continous if you just ask it...)
you could grind the edges clean again with a diamond wheel, and then apply either silicone grease, or silicone sealant, or ceramic paint to seal it and retain the sealing at higher temperatures the device functions at. A middle step that may or may not help or prove smart, is to etch the edges with an aggressive acid to dissolve any metal tracking, and wear away the sharp edges such that electric field emission points are smoothed and rounded to reduce the risk of arc/flash over.
Rainstorming some solutions for the damaged PTC: #1 (less confident) try to squeeze some remaining hours by using a sand-paper (probably a 320 grit, water resistant works better) at the corners and retest. #2 Use some 1W power resistors in series to dissipate 5~10~15W,temperature limited by an NTC+Triac circuit, or simply by a thermal switch/cutoff.
The reverse breakdown voltage of a typical LED is only in the range of 5 volts, so in reverse conduction in this circuit the LED will only have to dissipate around 5mw peak, which won't bother it in the least. People often assume that reverse conduction is bad for semiconductor junctions, but that's just because the most common case with reverse conduction involves much higher breakdown voltages and much lower source resistances, which together make for incandescent (or even pyrotechnic) levels of heating. So there's nothing particularly wrong with running an LED straight across the mains like this with a high value resistor, other than the existential pain of the circuit being very inefficient.
It could also be a _dual diode_ LED. There is nothing saying they have to use different colors for each diode in such LEDs. @Big Clive should test it for lighting up in both directions!
If the substrate is ceramic, the only way of removing the tracking mark would be to grind it off, scraping it with a metal implement will just exacerbate the problem.
Yes, this. My mind instantly went to a Dremel or similar tool with a non metallic grinding wheel or sanding drum. Just grind the corners to a larger radius.
@@therealjammit, Diamonds are made of crystalline carbon, and carbon is conductive; however, diamonds are normally considered a very good electrical insulator Due to the structure of the crystal lattice, but recent research has shown that it can be made into a sort of semiconductor or conductor under certain mechanical strain conditions. Therefore it's difficult to predict if traces of diamond left in the ceramic material from grinding away the arc marks on the ceramic heater block would be conductive or not.
What are the little right angle pillars that hold/centre the heating element made from? It seems mighty suspicious that it's failed/failing on the corners of the heater right were those pillars are.
You are the man I should have been. My late brother and I used to make stuff with valves, then transistors came in and we made a superhet radio. Then he got married and I went to college and got married. Please keep doing it for my brother and me. It's fascinating.
I suppose when you put an unsealed heating device in a thing that soaks up moist air, that device might just get moist in itself and go bang, because electricity loves it when substrates get damp and provide a path for current to have a wander across... :P
Oh c'mon Clive, you know we want to see you try to clean the sooty skidmarks off then power up that heater in the open to see if it works...or goes bang. 😅
Get another one, and break those four plastic things that 'align' the PTC element. Use gloves etc. - you don't want to touch the ceramic, the oil of your hands will track the same way the molten plastic has... Maybe you could wrap the plastic legs in kapton tape, but better to just be rid of them and be careful to align the element on reassembly.
I really love your videos. 🎉 But I'm also a bit scared of these appliances. It's a Chinese version of Russian roulette 😂 What would happen if the fuse in the plug would have been a 16A, or maybe a fake one 🤺💯 In 99% I would expect a louder pop and nothing more, but still I see a slight chance for a fire or even smoldering with lots of nasty smoke that is more mortal and can also destroy the whole flat.. I remember your video with the Car 12V Charger that had a different component design that was changed by the Chinese factory without noticing the company that had designed and ordered these products. So you never know wether safety critical components have the right specifications.. (also best example, the 2KV Y-Capacitor) Keep the good work up! ❤
I think I'd wire two of those units in series, so each unit is only receiving approximately 120V. That PTC looks far too thin for 240V. I'd like to see the results of wiring two units in series, I think it should work fine.
@@tncorgi92 me too, but I'm going to try "Oh my. I just received a zappy-poo!" in as calm of a manner as possible. Bigger shocks will still be referred to in language best not repeated here. Lol
Nice teardown. Shame that it died. I quite liked the look of the unit. Also a shame that those cool looking PTC heaters fail at high temps. Had some ideas that now fell thru.
The corners are also a high voltage stress point (point discharge), so that might be a contributor. Rather than scrapping it, you can get PTC elements from the usual suppliers, or, how about one of those metal - jacketed power resistor elements (with say an NTC probe and simple load controller?)
The same happened with my hot glue gun after a few years, although it might have blown more violently by the looks of what remained of the PTC heater and its surroundings. It made quite a bang and it's worth mentioning that there was no fuse in the gun to make for the lack of one in the plug like you have in the UK.
It looks like the plastic brackets in the corners react with PTC element and there is some transfer (plasticizer seeping out?) and providing path for the arc?
This failure mode for these ceramic PTC heaters only happens to that dehumidifier. It also happens to hot glue guns as well. I already experienced it twice with the element cracking and flashing over, and popping the breaker. I think thermal cycling plays a role in this failure mode.
PTC heater modules aren't very much to buy would be a interesting little project to buy a better one and fix this unit, might have to design and 3D print some brackets but still.... FUN!!!😁
5:36 - Yeah, yeah, oh yeah, what condition my condition was in... 😆IYKYK I'd been sorta-considering getting a US version of this, if available, but now I'm giving it a hard pass.
Clive have you seen the videos on RUclips for a electric device to remove itching from a bug bite sting? They use a small ceramic heater maybe 4 or 5mm square and heat it up for 4 to 10 seconds on the sting/bite area, this is said to trick the body to respond to a burn and not the sting. I guess it only gets to about 120 to 150 degrees f "48 or 50 C". They plug it into the smart phone for power and use a ap for the timer. What if you build a unit that uses a push switch and USB power to save us Money as they charge anywhere from $50 dollars and up for these devices. If they even work.
A low tech solution that I use. Heating the back of a metal teaspoon with some hot water before applying it to the sting. Or using a fingernail to mark a (light) "X" indentation over the sting site. I think the theory is that a "pain" response, either the heat or pressure(?) using nails, overrides itching signals which provides us with some relief from the bite. Or potentially the heat denatures or breaks down some of the foreign chemicals introduced by the bite/sting which lowers our response to it.
I wonder if this could have skewed your results in the dessicant testing video? If the heater gradually has changed specs, maybe the maxtemp has gone up or down over time? As for the led, I wonder if they’ve used a neon in a previous version, and just put an led in its place in the updated version, without changing the schematics (other than a different resistor value).
...There's "Dupli-Color High Heat Ceramic paint" that can be sprayed on car exhaust systems or brake calipers - claims to be "able to withstand temperatures up to 2000 degrees F" (approx 1000 c). Might work if non conductive type chosen...Bit dubious it can cope with 1000 C....
@@NinoJoel, I've always felt it was a safe bet to assume that high temperature paint formulations contained powdered carbon. This would include anything sold for repainting a barbecue grill.
The honeycomb thing that failed due to arcing/flashover: you have a bunch of these dryers. Stack two honeycombs that haven’t yet started to fail/carbonize in a working unit and then… maybe you’ve doubled the distance it needs to arc so maybe you’ve 4x or greater extended the life of the heater???? Maybe.
It would have been better to make the part of the housing that holds the heating element out of Micanol or Micaflex, which is mica-impregnated Bakelite that was once used for electrical insulators and base of high voltage vacuum tubes/"valves", especially for military use. I saw a documentary about workers in India or Madagascar digging deep and dangerous mine tunnels to extract mica for electronics use because there's a shortage of it and the demand is high.
400 grit wet & dry to get the grot off and a strip of kapton (the yellow, high temperature, high voltage) tape to prevent the plastic carbonising onto the PTC material, and you're good to go.
I wonder why they used a square shape for the element and not a round one. It would have avoided the corner problem and secondly fits better to the fan.
Ahhh and I was wondering if we see a video where something blows up! 😁 Three of these PTC elements are often found in those 12V car windscreen demisters that one can plug into the cigarette lighter socket. 50W each as far as I remember. Wonder how much this one had.
@@TestGearJunkie., yup; I found this online: "autopsy, from the root words "autos" (self) and "opsis" (sight, or seeing with one's own eyes)". A self autopsy sounds painful to me! Some definitions of necropsy, necro meaning "death", refer to it as pretty much the same as autopsy and don't necessarily differentiate between the two as being an animal versus a human being that is cut open and examined for cause of death.
could you adjust the circuitry on the others you have to prevent this happening to them? Another vid potentially? These vids of yours really chill me out, proper stress removers hahaha.
Use a circular coil around a quartz rod full of 3-6mm quartz/glass beads or boiling balls. Use a PID for setting the temp and the fan can run constantly at a low speed? Peak performance would see you using cubic zirconia beads for higher thermal conductivity with an air filter on the fan but both those are somewhat overkill.
I thought of a sealant on the edges, but I expect it could track over through the holes too. Especially if any dust gets caught in one and gets cooked.
It does look like a short distance to cover for the voltage applied. What is it in the UK 230-240 volts? It may fare better in 100 or 120 volt counties. I wonder how often the filter material on the bottom cover clogged up with dust?
The OPTIMUM way to dry pink silica gel is to pop it in an ELECTRIC oven ( NOT gas , these produce water vapour ! ) ... until it turns DARK blue .... tip it in a clean jam jar ... and it will keep for YEARS , nice - n - dry ........ but , at least you have a few bits - n - bobs for future usage ..... ( tried - n - tested ) ............... DAVE™🛑
I have just got one of these to keep my 3D printer filament dry! Do you think there is anything that could be done to help keep it alive? (better airflow into the unit? or reduce the power somehow) Or could there be another module that fits? 🤔🤔
I'm not sure if the edge could be painted with an enamel or something to prevent surface tracking. The issue is the relatively high operating temperature.
I wonder what the reverse voltage limit of the led is? I don't think it's anywhere near the peak mains voltage. Should have put a diode in the opposite polarity across the led to limit it. Better still a retro flickering neon.
Hey Clive, a lot of tools like grinders and drills fail because the capacitor pops. Can you make a video about their size/alternatives and why there are some with 2 and some with 3 wires? Often I cant find the original part for repairs.
Thanks for the update on this device as i do own one and i like to know if could potentially blow up 🙂 , I remember you saying on a live stream it may be a issue , haven't seen you done any lives in some time mind?
Because of RUclips politics the live streams are now on Twitch (bigclivedotcom) but long working hours are making it difficult to stream at the moment.
I tried so many of these cartridge based solutions and i keep coming back to using organza bags and just regenerating my silica gel in the oven. I would love to find something more convenient, but they all seem to either not be very durable, don't regenerate properly or just cost way to much... I think i will try to 3D print my own next, maybe some high temp filament that won't melt. Any ideas? :)
It looks weird to me that the soot is around the corners is where technically the metal plates dont even touch it, instead the plastic? frame does. I am no engineer but the current path in this case looks weird. Maybe those brackets melt/burn, deposit carbon and the carbon itself flashes over?
Does that element have resistance that changes in an odd way (rising at the edges faster) due to it's construction, so that there is excessive power dissipation around the edges at turn on,making it overheat and degrade faster round the edges? Maybe one switched on under a thermal camera would reveal something like that.
Thanks Big Clive. I wonder if a fix might be to wind a heater element with SS wire. Maybe back and fourth over a couple ceramic rods? Back in the days of winding my own coils for inhaling "certain substances" I used various gauges of SS wire for the coils, measuring the ohms and using voltage dialed in for the various airflow of the "tank" . I guess the circuitry would have to be reworked but I'm assuming that the housing is a high temperature sort of plastic?
This would be constant wattage, but not PTC to achieve constant temperature. Therefore if the air circulation failed for any reason, it would get incredibly hot and pose a significant fire risk.
@@321tryagain, Why isn't there a thermal fuse inside this device? Thermal fuses are often wound into transformers (pinched between the windings) and I've even seen a 1980s direct drive turntable that had a thermal fuse inside the drive coil for the platter. (That was an interesting failure because apparently one of the driver transistors shorted and caused the platter to run at over 100 RPM's continuously until the driver coil overheated enough to blow the thermal fuse, which fortunately was at the surface of the coil and so I was able to replace it. I suspect the turntable had been accidentally left on overnight and maybe it got zapped by an electrical storm or something).
What's the stated voltage spec on these? I'm wondering if they have pushed their luck and said it will take 220, don't know what the IoM is like but central Scotland it's usually the high side of 250, used to be filament light bulbs didn't generally last long.
This is a PTC heater, so the resistance should increase with temperature, therefore allowing it to maintain a constant temperature even with a slightly higher voltage.
@@321tryagain Yes but I'm wondering if it's flashing over because the spacings are a bit marginal for the applied voltage as a lot of these cheap mains powered things are, it only takes a bit of dampness, and this thing is designed to have moisture in it.
Can see that those plates were passing current onto the corners only and cooking them corners of the heating block. Seems the point of failure is baked into the design, oh that was bad Duncan. Thanks for the video Clive, hope the show is going well.
I have quite a few of those 5010 Blower fans as I use them when building a Voron Stealthburner. Out of curiosity, what brand is that fan and what voltage? I'm sure those heaters are a dime a dozen on the Bay of the e or the Express of the Ail. Would love to see you replace the heater.
“Sooty Skidmark” sounds like a 1950s blues band bass player.
Or an unfortunate incident involving a yellow bear glove puppet.
Or the toilet bowl after a lot of 🌶️.
Sooty Skidmark and the Zappy-poos
Fanny Flambeaux's boyfriend 😂
Personally it reminds me of that scene from Mrs browns boys where the doc asks for a pee and poo sample from grandad and she says he wants your underpants 💀
"That thing you're using is going to break."
Most people: "Oh no, I'll have to find a replacement."
Clive: "I can't wait."
Me: get the screwdriver, spudger, and soldering iron...
Always a "voyage of discovery", and gives me an excuse for my comprehensive parts collection. Along with the "if I can't fix it, I'll see if I can re-engineer it".
Ththat was me with my Christmas toys at 9 years old, secretly waiting for my toy to break so I could take it apart.
We use a couple of Peltier-effect dehumidifiers in a small motor/mechanical cabin at the observatory. During the peak summer months, they pull about 2L/week out of the air in there. We have a larger conventional dehumidifier in another part of the "stack" which does most of the work. While the little Peltier-based units aren't terribly efficient, they require no maintenance and just keep on trucking. For our application, the desiccant ones would just be too much work.
maybe that black stuff is plastic melted from the four posts that center it, or some kind of glue, carbonizing and conducting because of the heat
So funny. UK people get excited over the smallest skidmark in their shortcircuited gadgets. Come to mainland Europe, where we do not have those pesky 3A fuses in the plugs. Over in Europe, the short circuit will be able to dissipate much more energy before the 16A circuit breaker pops.
The amount of straight up welded switch contacts I've seen over the years in Schuko-land 😅
As a controls engineer, I am adding 'sooty skidmark' to my lexicon of phrases to use when faced with working on buggered equipment.
Looks like the plastic supports in the corners have melted and carbonized and provided a conductive path to start the flashover... I would bet that if you had a new one and either cut off those supports or put a bit of heat resistant kapton over the plastic that the heater would have a much longer lifespan.. For heaters that have already been used, you might be able to disassemble them with somewhat more care than you exhibited in this video, and either sand/scrape/chemically dissolve the melted plastic and then perform one of the steps above to keep the plastic from melting onto the element..
Watch out for plastic ESD assortment bins... some (most?) are made from a slightly conductive plastic mix so when they hang of the (1Mohm grounded) metal rack all ESD is dissipated in a controlled fashion... however I took one bin off rack and brought it with me deeper into the lab: After a few 10 minutes or so of "too little thinking - more measurements"... with the incidental contact with 400V it started to bzzz... BZZZZ!! SNAP! CRACKLE! SMOKE! Microarcs! 😆 oh dear! (no POP, the voltage amplifier was just doing it's thang, happily feeds no less than 3kW continous if you just ask it...)
Exactly the same comment I was going to make.
you could grind the edges clean again with a diamond wheel, and then apply either silicone grease, or silicone sealant, or ceramic paint to seal it and retain the sealing at higher temperatures the device functions at.
A middle step that may or may not help or prove smart, is to etch the edges with an aggressive acid to dissolve any metal tracking, and wear away the sharp edges such that electric field emission points are smoothed and rounded to reduce the risk of arc/flash over.
Definitely worth a try.
To see if any magic blue smoke comes out.
Rainstorming some solutions for the damaged PTC: #1 (less confident) try to squeeze some remaining hours by using a sand-paper (probably a 320 grit, water resistant works better) at the corners and retest.
#2 Use some 1W power resistors in series to dissipate 5~10~15W,temperature limited by an NTC+Triac circuit, or simply by a thermal switch/cutoff.
The reverse breakdown voltage of a typical LED is only in the range of 5 volts, so in reverse conduction in this circuit the LED will only have to dissipate around 5mw peak, which won't bother it in the least. People often assume that reverse conduction is bad for semiconductor junctions, but that's just because the most common case with reverse conduction involves much higher breakdown voltages and much lower source resistances, which together make for incandescent (or even pyrotechnic) levels of heating. So there's nothing particularly wrong with running an LED straight across the mains like this with a high value resistor, other than the existential pain of the circuit being very inefficient.
It could also be a _dual diode_ LED. There is nothing saying they have to use different colors for each diode in such LEDs. @Big Clive should test it for lighting up in both directions!
If the substrate is ceramic, the only way of removing the tracking mark would be to grind it off, scraping it with a metal implement will just exacerbate the problem.
Yes, this. My mind instantly went to a Dremel or similar tool with a non metallic grinding wheel or sanding drum. Just grind the corners to a larger radius.
I was thinking of using a diamond sharpening stone to polish off the bad parts.
@@therealjammit, Diamonds are made of crystalline carbon, and carbon is conductive; however, diamonds are normally considered a very good electrical insulator Due to the structure of the crystal lattice, but recent research has shown that it can be made into a sort of semiconductor or conductor under certain mechanical strain conditions. Therefore it's difficult to predict if traces of diamond left in the ceramic material from grinding away the arc marks on the ceramic heater block would be conductive or not.
What are the little right angle pillars that hold/centre the heating element made from? It seems mighty suspicious that it's failed/failing on the corners of the heater right were those pillars are.
Those are high temperature plastic and might be a contributing factor.
"Sooty Skidmark" was my stripper name.
You are the man I should have been. My late brother and I used to make stuff with valves, then transistors came in and we made a superhet radio. Then he got married and I went to college and got married. Please keep doing it for my brother and me. It's fascinating.
I suppose when you put an unsealed heating device in a thing that soaks up moist air, that device might just get moist in itself and go bang, because electricity loves it when substrates get damp and provide a path for current to have a wander across... :P
The 3 pin degaussing thermistors used in colour CRT TVs often used to fail in the same way.
Oh c'mon Clive, you know we want to see you try to clean the sooty skidmarks off then power up that heater in the open to see if it works...or goes bang. 😅
Ou yes please❤
C’mon .. be honest. We all just want it to pop. 😂
Get another one, and break those four plastic things that 'align' the PTC element.
Use gloves etc. - you don't want to touch the ceramic, the oil of your hands will track the same way the molten plastic has...
Maybe you could wrap the plastic legs in kapton tape, but better to just be rid of them and be careful to align the element on reassembly.
I really love your videos. 🎉
But I'm also a bit scared of these appliances.
It's a Chinese version of Russian roulette 😂
What would happen if the fuse in the plug would have been a 16A, or maybe a fake one 🤺💯
In 99% I would expect a louder pop and nothing more, but still I see a slight chance for a fire or even smoldering with lots of nasty smoke that is more mortal and can also destroy the whole flat..
I remember your video with the Car 12V Charger that had a different component design that was changed by the Chinese factory without noticing the company that had designed and ordered these products.
So you never know wether safety critical components have the right specifications..
(also best example, the 2KV Y-Capacitor)
Keep the good work up! ❤
The high temp plastic wasn’t high enough temp. How very unfortunate.
I think I'd wire two of those units in series, so each unit is only receiving approximately 120V. That PTC looks far too thin for 240V. I'd like to see the results of wiring two units in series, I think it should work fine.
you could try grinding off the sooty skid mark. it's a sintered block of ceramic so if you remove the shorted bit it might still work.
Thanks for the show Clive 🍻
Don't pick on Sooty, He's a harmless little bear !! Lol. 😂
I shall forever refer to capacitor discharges and mild electrical shocks as "zappy-poos"
I use more colorful language when it happens to me personally.
@@tncorgi92 me too, but I'm going to try "Oh my. I just received a zappy-poo!" in as calm of a manner as possible. Bigger shocks will still be referred to in language best not repeated here. Lol
When you said "it is defunct now" I immediately flashed back to Monty Python, Dead Parrot!! lol
5:36 🎶🎤😏 "I just dropped in... to see what condition my air dehumidifier was in..." 🕺🎵
A Kenny Rogers and The First Edition reference in a Big Clive video?! NOICE!
Nice teardown. Shame that it died. I quite liked the look of the unit. Also a shame that those cool looking PTC heaters fail at high temps. Had some ideas that now fell thru.
The corners are also a high voltage stress point (point discharge), so that might be a contributor. Rather than scrapping it, you can get PTC elements from the usual suppliers, or, how about one of those metal - jacketed power resistor elements (with say an NTC probe and simple load controller?)
Very interesting thanks Clive 😊
The same happened with my hot glue gun after a few years, although it might have blown more violently by the looks of what remained of the PTC heater and its surroundings.
It made quite a bang and it's worth mentioning that there was no fuse in the gun to make for the lack of one in the plug like you have in the UK.
It looks like the plastic brackets in the corners react with PTC element and there is some transfer (plasticizer seeping out?) and providing path for the arc?
This failure mode for these ceramic PTC heaters only happens to that dehumidifier. It also happens to hot glue guns as well. I already experienced it twice with the element cracking and flashing over, and popping the breaker. I think thermal cycling plays a role in this failure mode.
PTC heater modules aren't very much to buy would be a interesting little project to buy a better one and fix this unit, might have to design and 3D print some brackets but still.... FUN!!!😁
Oh bugger, i bought 1 of these, to use in the car in winter. Worked really well.
5:36 - Yeah, yeah, oh yeah, what condition my condition was in... 😆IYKYK
I'd been sorta-considering getting a US version of this, if available, but now I'm giving it a hard pass.
I think about you a lot. You explained my 2 electric shocks from a heavy duty sewing machine and a hissing spitting phone charger.
Good man. Good man.
Clive have you seen the videos on RUclips for a electric device to remove itching from a bug bite sting? They use a small ceramic heater maybe 4 or 5mm square and heat it up for 4 to 10 seconds on the sting/bite area, this is said to trick the body to respond to a burn and not the sting. I guess it only gets to about 120 to 150 degrees f "48 or 50 C". They plug it into the smart phone for power and use a ap for the timer. What if you build a unit that uses a push switch and USB power to save us Money as they charge anywhere from $50 dollars and up for these devices. If they even work.
A low tech solution that I use. Heating the back of a metal teaspoon with some hot water before applying it to the sting. Or using a fingernail to mark a (light) "X" indentation over the sting site. I think the theory is that a "pain" response, either the heat or pressure(?) using nails, overrides itching signals which provides us with some relief from the bite. Or potentially the heat denatures or breaks down some of the foreign chemicals introduced by the bite/sting which lowers our response to it.
I wonder if this could have skewed your results in the dessicant testing video? If the heater gradually has changed specs, maybe the maxtemp has gone up or down over time?
As for the led, I wonder if they’ve used a neon in a previous version, and just put an led in its place in the updated version, without changing the schematics (other than a different resistor value).
...There's "Dupli-Color High Heat Ceramic paint" that can be sprayed on car exhaust systems or brake calipers - claims to be "able to withstand temperatures up to 2000 degrees F" (approx 1000 c). Might work if non conductive type chosen...Bit dubious it can cope with 1000 C....
It does actually handle that temperature but it is conductive as far as I know
@@NinoJoel, I've always felt it was a safe bet to assume that high temperature paint formulations contained powdered carbon. This would include anything sold for repainting a barbecue grill.
The honeycomb thing that failed due to arcing/flashover: you have a bunch of these dryers. Stack two honeycombs that haven’t yet started to fail/carbonize in a working unit and then… maybe you’ve doubled the distance it needs to arc so maybe you’ve 4x or greater extended the life of the heater???? Maybe.
Clive they used to use Mica as a high heat electrical insulator its not hard to cut into a shape instead of the i guess its a ceramic material
It would have been better to make the part of the housing that holds the heating element out of Micanol or Micaflex, which is mica-impregnated Bakelite that was once used for electrical insulators and base of high voltage vacuum tubes/"valves", especially for military use. I saw a documentary about workers in India or Madagascar digging deep and dangerous mine tunnels to extract mica for electronics use because there's a shortage of it and the demand is high.
400 grit wet & dry to get the grot off and a strip of kapton (the yellow, high temperature, high voltage) tape to prevent the plastic carbonising onto the PTC material, and you're good to go.
I didn't know flat ceramic PTC heaters are a thing, I expected to see bare resistance wire.
I would love to just sit down and disassemble things with you to learn how they work.
The tracking may have been assisted by something emitted by those plastic corners when heated.
I wonder why they used a square shape for the element and not a round one. It would have avoided the corner problem and secondly fits better to the fan.
Perhaps because "it's hip to be square"? 😉
Ahhh and I was wondering if we see a video where something blows up! 😁
Three of these PTC elements are often found in those 12V car windscreen demisters that one can plug into the cigarette lighter socket. 50W each as far as I remember. Wonder how much this one had.
I'd be more surprised that it initially worked, instead of wondering why it failed
Necropsy - autopsy is done to your own species (i.e. a human).
Devices are his species.
There's precedence for layperson's use, e.g. "alien autopsy". But post-mortem is the typical all-encompassing term.
@@restorer19 Technically an autopsy would be doing it to yourself, which could be a trifle painful.
@@TestGearJunkie., yup; I found this online: "autopsy, from the root words "autos" (self) and "opsis" (sight, or seeing with one's own eyes)". A self autopsy sounds painful to me! Some definitions of necropsy, necro meaning "death", refer to it as pretty much the same as autopsy and don't necessarily differentiate between the two as being an animal versus a human being that is cut open and examined for cause of death.
This makes feel better about using the oven to regenerate my Silica Gel
could you adjust the circuitry on the others you have to prevent this happening to them? Another vid potentially? These vids of yours really chill me out, proper stress removers hahaha.
Moisture dripping down from wet silica, if you put dry silica into the cartridge it will probably last a lot longer.
Use a circular coil around a quartz rod full of 3-6mm quartz/glass beads or boiling balls. Use a PID for setting the temp and the fan can run constantly at a low speed?
Peak performance would see you using cubic zirconia beads for higher thermal conductivity with an air filter on the fan but both those are somewhat overkill.
It is always fun when troubleshooting a widget trying to guess the failure mechanism prior to beginning to debug.
I thought of a sealant on the edges, but I expect it could track over through the holes too. Especially if any dust gets caught in one and gets cooked.
I was expecting you to say, "Nothing a wee bit of toaster oven wire can't fix. Shall we?"
It looked to me where the corner plastic locators are, caused the issue? perhaps shortening/removing the plastic stand ups may suppress the arcing?
Product dev 101 - Design things to fail!
Thank you Clive now we know.
It does look like a short distance to cover for the voltage applied. What is it in the UK 230-240 volts? It may fare better in 100 or 120 volt counties. I wonder how often the filter material on the bottom cover clogged up with dust?
The OPTIMUM way to dry pink silica gel is to pop it in an ELECTRIC oven ( NOT gas , these produce water vapour ! ) ... until it turns DARK blue .... tip it in a clean jam jar ... and it will keep for YEARS , nice - n - dry ........ but , at least you have a few bits - n - bobs for future usage ..... ( tried - n - tested ) ............... DAVE™🛑
I have just got one of these to keep my 3D printer filament dry! Do you think there is anything that could be done to help keep it alive? (better airflow into the unit? or reduce the power somehow) Or could there be another module that fits? 🤔🤔
I'm not sure if the edge could be painted with an enamel or something to prevent surface tracking. The issue is the relatively high operating temperature.
Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍
I wonder what the reverse voltage limit of the led is? I don't think it's anywhere near the peak mains voltage. Should have put a diode in the opposite polarity across the led to limit it. Better still a retro flickering neon.
Round the corners. Its the sharp edges that started it.
If it can be reassembled, it might be interesting to compare drying times with and without heat.
Thanks for another great video 👍
Hey Clive, a lot of tools like grinders and drills fail because the capacitor pops. Can you make a video about their size/alternatives and why there are some with 2 and some with 3 wires? Often I cant find the original part for repairs.
Needs a bigger fuse Clive 😅
I wonder if a motor controller or some other system that pulses/chops mains could be used to under drive the ceramics.
Clive, could you sand the sides of that heater chip to make it good again?
Thanks for the update on this device as i do own one and i like to know if could potentially blow up 🙂 , I remember you saying on a live stream it may be a issue , haven't seen you done any lives in some time mind?
Because of RUclips politics the live streams are now on Twitch (bigclivedotcom) but long working hours are making it difficult to stream at the moment.
I tried so many of these cartridge based solutions and i keep coming back to using organza bags and just regenerating my silica gel in the oven. I would love to find something more convenient, but they all seem to either not be very durable, don't regenerate properly or just cost way to much...
I think i will try to 3D print my own next, maybe some high temp filament that won't melt. Any ideas? :)
It looks weird to me that the soot is around the corners is where technically the metal plates dont even touch it, instead the plastic? frame does. I am no engineer but the current path in this case looks weird. Maybe those brackets melt/burn, deposit carbon and the carbon itself flashes over?
Does that element have resistance that changes in an odd way (rising at the edges faster) due to it's construction, so that there is excessive power dissipation around the edges at turn on,making it overheat and degrade faster round the edges? Maybe one switched on under a thermal camera would reveal something like that.
Thanks Big Clive.
I wonder if a fix might be to wind a heater element with SS wire. Maybe back and fourth over a couple ceramic rods? Back in the days of winding my own coils for inhaling "certain substances" I used various gauges of SS wire for the coils, measuring the ohms and using voltage dialed in for the various airflow of the "tank" . I guess the circuitry would have to be reworked but I'm assuming that the housing is a high temperature sort of plastic?
This would be constant wattage, but not PTC to achieve constant temperature. Therefore if the air circulation failed for any reason, it would get incredibly hot and pose a significant fire risk.
@@321tryagain Very good point.
@@321tryagain, Why isn't there a thermal fuse inside this device? Thermal fuses are often wound into transformers (pinched between the windings) and I've even seen a 1980s direct drive turntable that had a thermal fuse inside the drive coil for the platter. (That was an interesting failure because apparently one of the driver transistors shorted and caused the platter to run at over 100 RPM's continuously until the driver coil overheated enough to blow the thermal fuse, which fortunately was at the surface of the coil and so I was able to replace it. I suspect the turntable had been accidentally left on overnight and maybe it got zapped by an electrical storm or something).
Hi Clive, skid marks ,does that mean they are crap? Many thanks from Nr Chester.
Sooty & Sweep: SkidMark was the Zeppo/Pete Best of the trio.
Another example of why you are so popular of the Tube Clive but you really should be wearing Blue Latex gloves for any forensic examinations 😀
Slap a 1st gen AMD Ryzen in there, it'll heat your media for you sure it will consume 180ish Watts, but who's counting? 😂
I guess it needs a thicker insulator between the sides ?
Thanks for the heads up. When mine does go pop, will using a dehydrator to charge the units work instead?
What a shame I really liked the idea of such a device. Any recommendations for a better quality alternative?
What's the stated voltage spec on these? I'm wondering if they have pushed their luck and said it will take 220, don't know what the IoM is like but central Scotland it's usually the high side of 250, used to be filament light bulbs didn't generally last long.
This is a PTC heater, so the resistance should increase with temperature, therefore allowing it to maintain a constant temperature even with a slightly higher voltage.
@@321tryagain Yes but I'm wondering if it's flashing over because the spacings are a bit marginal for the applied voltage as a lot of these cheap mains powered things are, it only takes a bit of dampness, and this thing is designed to have moisture in it.
Could you wrap the heating thing in kapton tape? would that be enough insulation?
5:30 It's fjording for the pines...
You got that the wrong way round. Its " pining for the fjords!" Said in a high pitched john cleese voice.
@@simontay4851🙄
How about add a series resistor to reduce how much the PTC dissipates?
the ptc 'may' only be rated for a lower voltage.. 120v maybe?😉
How does a finger test (2:06) avoid surprises? I suspect yours are immune.
If that fan doesn’t become an upcoming ionizer video soon then I shall be deeply disappointed
At least you salvaged a few parts. Probably the reason going cheap.
Couldn’t you put heatproof sealant on the other one you brought and see how if goes
What about putting a diode in series with the PTC in the other ones to run it at half power.
Can see that those plates were passing current onto the corners only and cooking them corners of the heating block.
Seems the point of failure is baked into the design, oh that was bad Duncan.
Thanks for the video Clive, hope the show is going well.
I have quite a few of those 5010 Blower fans as I use them when building a Voron Stealthburner. Out of curiosity, what brand is that fan and what voltage? I'm sure those heaters are a dime a dozen on the Bay of the e or the Express of the Ail. Would love to see you replace the heater.
Well the good news is when it went, it didnt blow your balls up 🤣
Could moisture from the desiccant have caused the initial tracking?
I doubt it, since it's pre-desiccant.
More spares for the drawer !
This device should have just used an incandescent bulb as the heater. Note: Metal filaments *_are_* PTC resistors.
I remember when you first opened one of them, it really didn't last too long