Really enjoy car shows on film. Been to a few this year and got some great results. Nothing is better than a photogenic, inanimate object when you're too nervous for portraiture.
The light leak is from the window on the back door of the camera. Your respooled film has a laminated sticker, and the laminated layer can pipe light from the window to inside of the camera. The fogging is where the edge of the film canister was while you were exposing the previous frame in the film gate. Put a piece of opaque tape over the window next time you use this film.
Now that is an interesting point! But the sticker seems no more shinier than an FP4 I am looking at the two right now. Maybe because of the extra thickness (sticker on top of already labeled cassette). Also the other roll was fine.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss A cine film respooler I have used had to change their labels because of this issue, they said that it was due to the type of clear UV coating on their labels piping light from the rear window. So while I could still be pulling all this out of my arse, this kind of light leak is not completely unprecendented.
I've encountered similar issues when shooting Vision 3 and XX film rolled from 400ft reels. My understanding is that it originates from reused cassettes that are no longer completely light-tight where the film comes out of the cassette. This could lead to light leaks in the confirmation window at the back of the camera. This explanation might also account for why you're not experiencing this on both rolls and in all of the photos. I always tape up the window when using this type of film. Great video as always!
Lovely to get a mention, and it was fantastic to visit you. My wife was also very pleased to see all the Morris Minor cars! The "dog bone" escort came out really well.
XX is my favorite BW film. I bought a 400ft roll and spool down onto my bulk loader. I usually use HC-110 (b) with no issues but haven't tried D96 yet. D96 looks easy to make yourself.
Another great video, It would be interesting to see a comparison of the classic style Kodak developers namely D23, D76, and D96. Bulk loaded from 400ft 36 exposures of Double X is around £3 which is amazing value for such a quality Kodak stock in 2023.
Where are you getting Double X that cheap? Kodak has it listed at 315€ at 0% VAT for 400tf. You get 72 rolls out of that, making it around 4,40€ before tax. With shipping and tax, we're talking around 6€ or £5 per roll of 36
Very interesting comparison. I have used D96 a few times and it seems best suited to movie films. It looks really good with Fuji 4791 and it looks good here on the Double X. As for the light leak, I think it was probably when the film was rolled as you didn't see if on the second roll in the same conditions. Usually a leak in that position is at the door seal or where the tap is to reset the film counter. If it was the camera, you should have at least small leaks on the edges of the other roll.
On the negatives shown at 10:41 you can see the light leak on allmost every shot, sometimes less prominent, but it's there. In very bright sunlight, stray light could enter through the viewfinder, I had it on different occasions with dslr's when I didn't hold the camera close to my eye. So maybe?
I had some light leaks on my Canon AE-1 a few years ago on one roll, but they never showed again on subsequent rolls. I reckon I might have got something stuck in the door, like maybe the seal itself got a bit wonky and leaked a bit. I just chalk it up to using an old camera, though it has led to some happy accidents. One of my favorite photos I ever took had a light leak.
I do love a bit of Double X, nice results Roger, I think you'd enjoy it in your D-23 too (I go with 7mins in stock or 7min 30sec in replenished) both low contrast developers, so maybe there's something in that. Ref the light leak, I've experienced that sort of thing with re-rolled film too, they're usually good, but now and then you might get one.
Film and developing is too expensive. A buck or two a shot, or about 3 bucks if you're using a Polaroid I guess. It's a bummer I remember the good old days when I didn't even think about how much it was costing me. Really enjoyed the video.
Sunday morning fix... set me up for next week. Love those old car pictures, in fact love old cars which is why I dive an old e46 8o miles every day. Like your air con, better than mine.... tea coaster attached to the thing on the end of my arm 😅. P.S that's another film for me to try when I jack in work 😁
The rounded sprocket holes are to stop taering the fillum at higher movie speeds. There are no sharp corners in the sprockets because a sharp corner is a weak point..... Just like ship portholes are round and you will never see a sharp corner in a ship's door either..... Because sharp corners fail under stress.
When I use Rodinal on XX at 1:50, I process it for 9 min @ 20 Deg. C and yes I also see lots of grain. If I don’t want the grain, I will process it in Ilford DDX at 1:4 for 7 minutes @ 20 Deg. C. I very much enjoy XX especially for the contrast.
In the earliest days perforations were not standardised; each camera maker designed their own. The Bell and Howell type was the first to be Standardised; it was used both for camera stocks and for cinema release prints. It gives very accurate registration, and so a very steady image on screen, but has a problem. The sharp corners where the flat top and bottom meet the curved sides can act as crack starters, and prints did not stand up well to many passes through the projector. Surviving prints with BH perforations nearly always have cracks in the corners. The Kodak Standard perforations avoided this problem by having the corners and are used on prints, but camera negatives and intermediates still use BH perforations, except in Russia where negatives also use BH. There were two other shapes of perforations, DH which I think were used for Technicolor dye transfer printing, they were similar to KS but with very slightly reduced height. CS perforations were smaller, almost square, and were used on CinemaScope prints with four track magnetic sound stripes in the 1950s-70s. This is all for 35 mm, 65 mm negatives use KS perforations. Cinema negative and intermediate stocks have very slightly reduced perforation pitch, but this makes no difference for still photography. It’s only a few ten thousandths of an inch difference between standard and short pitch.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I made an error in it. In Russia KS perforations are used for both perforations are used for both negatives and prints, not BH ones.
Ah! We share the same A/C brand on the darkroom! Nice! I believe the light leaks are more related to the film than to the the camera. Maybe who loaded it did something wrong. Or even the small velour on th cartridge wasn't that fine. The rolls after this came fine, so that leads me to this conclusion
having shed loads of 400ft tins of film in the film fridge. I tend to leave the majority of the film on the original reel and just take about 50ft off at a time and bag it. and I no longer use bulk loaders, I just roughly pull out 3.5 ft of film and hand roll it wearing gloves (don't have the issues I had in the past) tell old mate to take a film camera out...he has the eye 🙂
Great picture Roger, despite the full sun Your list of all the different brands proposing the same film intrigued me. So I searched a bit There's quite a price difference between tha brands but also a difference of ISO. Which is bizarre if it's the same film Kodak XX 5222 is 320, Silberra is 200 and Orwo Wolfen UN54 is 100 Orwo UN54 (Lomography Potsdam Kino also for that matter) is known to be a cinema film, but most probably not a Kodak one
As mentioned ORWO is its own plant. I also found that interesting the difference in prices. A few I listed look like home growers. Like my BUU XXX (which was a joke). But nothing stops me making it reality and giving times for 400
As far as the light leaks I was reading kodak's actual brochure for the d96 developer and in the one part it said the possible light leaks or streaks as you have it comes from film touching film. So it's possible whenever they were loading it into the cassettes got kinked so one frame was touching another was touching another was touching another
usually there is the thing not to develop shorter than 5min to get en even development- Actually the master roll is usually developed witth low contrast dev,..since the contrast come with the copy (positiv roll for cinema) or with the paper print....
About the light leak: I had a similar problem a few years ago and in my case it was the light seal on the right side of the camera back (where your right hand holds the camera and where the hinge is). Replacing that seal fixed the issue for me. To test, shine a bright light on the right side of the camera for some frames, then tape the side with black tape and shoot the rest of the roll. The seal in my camera (Minolta XD-7) was easy to replace, just a strip of black velvet. Thanks for the video!!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I still have 5 rolls of a large lot that I bought from Calumet in 2010. They cost less than £3.00 a roll for a pack of ten. I think the 120 roll was about £2.50.
I've ended up trying two Bellini chems lately. The eco film (an xtol alike), and their eco paper developer. Happy with both, but I don't have enough experience to really judge them. I'll probably stick with the paper one, it's a vitamin-c thing and very low toxicity.
Stick with what you like Tristan. You don't need experience for that. You'll soon know when you want to change things such as sharpness, grain and contrast and fit into a rhythm.
Actually catLabs 320 is not a Kodak XX. It is an aerial surveillance film. It has a clear film, no background tone. It is very thin. It also has some additional sensitivity in the IR light range. I like the film a lot but I do have some issues getting it on reels sometimes as it is so thin that it can sleep from slot in reel.
The Q2, once you get used to it, is a brilliant camera to shoot. I shoot it fully manual (apart from ISO I leave on auto) even manual focusing. I kept missing shots on auto focus. And the focus assist inside which is all like green speckles is very useful for manual focus. Downside for me being digital is I don't have a good printer and have to ask the local printer to print for me. Amazingly sharp detailed photos though.
Nice one Rodger, can you tell the difference between both developers at a normal viewing distance? does the Rodinal appear sharper with the more prominent grain ?
I keep trying to put links in to a website about bulk loading 400 ft film and another website that will do a 3D printed bulk loader for 400ft, but RUclips keep taking it down.
Hi, I also got that kind of light leak on my Minolta Alpha Sweet II, cant figure out what cause it. Do you have any lead on where is the leak come from?
I've not got a clue! As it is over the frames in pretty much the same place I am suspecting the camera yet the seals are perfect so it is a strange one! First time it happened. Then went away again!
Thanks Janne! By the way the tripod finally died! The monopod leg snapped in half. I ordered the same tripod yesterday! The old one did take some battering though!
@@francoismassin8649 the film is sourced in the eu and has near ir capabilities. It isn't kodak xx. It's most likely Agfa Aviphot Pan 200 also known as rollei superpan 200.
Yeah, that's another reason to not blame the infallible Nikon! I'm betting that Double XX has a thinner film base which will promote light pipping in certain situations. It's been a few years since I shot any of that film (and there's a few in my freezer just itching to be exposed!). I'll check a roll out this week and see what's the what.@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you for your answer. Cinestill’s D96 powder developer states that you can develop 16 rolls or 100ft roll of 35mm film with 1 liter of their developer. That might be a good starting point.
Really enjoy car shows on film. Been to a few this year and got some great results. Nothing is better than a photogenic, inanimate object when you're too nervous for portraiture.
The light leak is from the window on the back door of the camera. Your respooled film has a laminated sticker, and the laminated layer can pipe light from the window to inside of the camera. The fogging is where the edge of the film canister was while you were exposing the previous frame in the film gate. Put a piece of opaque tape over the window next time you use this film.
Now that is an interesting point! But the sticker seems no more shinier than an FP4 I am looking at the two right now. Maybe because of the extra thickness (sticker on top of already labeled cassette). Also the other roll was fine.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss A cine film respooler I have used had to change their labels because of this issue, they said that it was due to the type of clear UV coating on their labels piping light from the rear window. So while I could still be pulling all this out of my arse, this kind of light leak is not completely unprecendented.
I've encountered similar issues when shooting Vision 3 and XX film rolled from 400ft reels.
My understanding is that it originates from reused cassettes that are no longer completely light-tight where the film comes out of the cassette. This could lead to light leaks in the confirmation window at the back of the camera. This explanation might also account for why you're not experiencing this on both rolls and in all of the photos.
I always tape up the window when using this type of film.
Great video as always!
Cheers. The window has a good sponge seal over it.
I bet some slide film would have been brilliant on those bright coloured cars. Love the results from the XX.
Lovely to get a mention, and it was fantastic to visit you. My wife was also very pleased to see all the Morris Minor cars! The "dog bone" escort came out really well.
XX is my favorite BW film. I bought a 400ft roll and spool down onto my bulk loader. I usually use HC-110 (b) with no issues but haven't tried D96 yet. D96 looks easy to make yourself.
Well done you for taking the 400ft and spooling it down! D96 does look easy to make. Cheers
Another great video, It would be interesting to see a comparison of the classic style Kodak developers namely D23, D76, and D96. Bulk loaded from 400ft 36 exposures of Double X is around £3 which is amazing value for such a quality Kodak stock in 2023.
I have used Cinestill in D23. Nice results.
Where are you getting Double X that cheap? Kodak has it listed at 315€ at 0% VAT for 400tf.
You get 72 rolls out of that, making it around 4,40€ before tax. With shipping and tax, we're talking around 6€ or £5 per roll of 36
Very interesting comparison. I have used D96 a few times and it seems best suited to movie films. It looks really good with Fuji 4791 and it looks good here on the Double X.
As for the light leak, I think it was probably when the film was rolled as you didn't see if on the second roll in the same conditions. Usually a leak in that position is at the door seal or where the tap is to reset the film counter. If it was the camera, you should have at least small leaks on the edges of the other roll.
Thats what stumped me! No leaks on the second roll or the roll I shot on the bike. Both in same bright conditions.
What the heck...................... Fuji 4791...now i need to get it......f*cking rabbit holes :D
On the negatives shown at 10:41 you can see the light leak on allmost every shot, sometimes less prominent, but it's there. In very bright sunlight, stray light could enter through the viewfinder, I had it on different occasions with dslr's when I didn't hold the camera close to my eye. So maybe?
Cheers Rick!
Regarding the light leaks, I would suspect the felt of the cartridge. I had the same issue with a reloadable cartridge as well.
I had some light leaks on my Canon AE-1 a few years ago on one roll, but they never showed again on subsequent rolls. I reckon I might have got something stuck in the door, like maybe the seal itself got a bit wonky and leaked a bit. I just chalk it up to using an old camera, though it has led to some happy accidents. One of my favorite photos I ever took had a light leak.
Thats one thing I keep trying to think of also if I got something stuck in the door and didn't realise. It's very possible!
I do love a bit of Double X, nice results Roger, I think you'd enjoy it in your D-23 too (I go with 7mins in stock or 7min 30sec in replenished) both low contrast developers, so maybe there's something in that. Ref the light leak, I've experienced that sort of thing with re-rolled film too, they're usually good, but now and then you might get one.
Cheers. I have developed it in D23 and got nice results.
Film and developing is too expensive. A buck or two a shot, or about 3 bucks if you're using a Polaroid I guess. It's a bummer I remember the good old days when I didn't even think about how much it was costing me. Really enjoyed the video.
Sunday morning fix... set me up for next week. Love those old car pictures, in fact love old cars which is why I dive an old e46 8o miles every day. Like your air con, better than mine.... tea coaster attached to the thing on the end of my arm 😅.
P.S that's another film for me to try when I jack in work 😁
Another car vlog coming soon Malc 👍
I have some D96 laying about somewhere. I'll have to try this one out!!
😜 a great comparison ...I got to run all that Arista through ..but got held up with the storm n stuff ...about 2 months behind you ...
Good stuff Nick
Excellent...I forgot the SD Card ...
🤦
The rounded sprocket holes are to stop taering the fillum at higher movie speeds. There are no sharp corners in the sprockets because a sharp corner is a weak point..... Just like ship portholes are round and you will never see a sharp corner in a ship's door either..... Because sharp corners fail under stress.
Busted! Cheers mate. Planes too then!
🤣😂 Sorry m8 😆🤐@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
yup @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
When I use Rodinal on XX at 1:50, I process it for 9 min @ 20 Deg. C and yes I also see lots of grain. If I don’t want the grain, I will process it in Ilford DDX at 1:4 for 7 minutes @ 20 Deg. C. I very much enjoy XX especially for the contrast.
Thanks! The film looks awesome!
Brilliant stuff. Some lovely images
Thank you! Cheers!
In the earliest days perforations were not standardised; each camera maker designed their own. The Bell and Howell type was the first to be Standardised; it was used both for camera stocks and for cinema release prints. It gives very accurate registration, and so a very steady image on screen, but has a problem. The sharp corners where the flat top and bottom meet the curved sides can act as crack starters, and prints did not stand up well to many passes through the projector. Surviving prints with BH perforations nearly always have cracks in the corners. The Kodak Standard perforations avoided this problem by having the corners and are used on prints, but camera negatives and intermediates still use BH perforations, except in Russia where negatives also use BH. There were two other shapes of perforations, DH which I think were used for Technicolor dye transfer printing, they were similar to KS but with very slightly reduced height. CS perforations were smaller, almost square, and were used on CinemaScope prints with four track magnetic sound stripes in the 1950s-70s. This is all for 35 mm, 65 mm negatives use KS perforations.
Cinema negative and intermediate stocks have very slightly reduced perforation pitch, but this makes no difference for still photography. It’s only a few ten thousandths of an inch difference between standard and short pitch.
Thanks for the interesting read.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
I made an error in it. In Russia KS perforations are used for both perforations are used for both negatives and prints, not BH ones.
Ah! We share the same A/C brand on the darkroom! Nice!
I believe the light leaks are more related to the film than to the the camera. Maybe who loaded it did something wrong. Or even the small velour on th cartridge wasn't that fine. The rolls after this came fine, so that leads me to this conclusion
Bizarre Jose.
having shed loads of 400ft tins of film in the film fridge.
I tend to leave the majority of the film on the original reel and just take about 50ft off at a time and bag it. and I no longer use bulk loaders, I just roughly pull out 3.5 ft of film and hand roll it wearing gloves (don't have the issues I had in the past) tell old mate to take a film camera out...he has the eye 🙂
I won't tell him that Andy. His head is big enough LOL!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss fair comment Rog,
Great video ! I shoot a lot of Double X in HC110 stand, love this film!
As for light leak, did you figure it out? They can be maddening !
I never did! But I recently replaced the door seal!
I find that 5222 works best in ID11 or D76. The negatives are a joy to behold, just the right balance of contrast and grain.
Great picture Roger, despite the full sun
Your list of all the different brands proposing the same film intrigued me. So I searched a bit
There's quite a price difference between tha brands but also a difference of ISO. Which is bizarre if it's the same film
Kodak XX 5222 is 320, Silberra is 200 and Orwo Wolfen UN54 is 100
Orwo UN54 (Lomography Potsdam Kino also for that matter) is known to be a cinema film, but most probably not a Kodak one
Orwo really is a different film, not repackaged Kodak 5222!
As mentioned ORWO is its own plant. I also found that interesting the difference in prices. A few I listed look like home growers. Like my BUU XXX (which was a joke). But nothing stops me making it reality and giving times for 400
As far as the light leaks I was reading kodak's actual brochure for the d96 developer and in the one part it said the possible light leaks or streaks as you have it comes from film touching film. So it's possible whenever they were loading it into the cassettes got kinked so one frame was touching another was touching another was touching another
It remains a mystery!
To me the most beautiful car ever made was the Austin Heally 3000. I always wanted one but could never afford it. Love to see 5222 in Piro developer
this film is great I find I get the best results when I develop it in D-76
Will have a go at the D96...and I hopefully can get the same results :) The print of the Triumph got my heart pumpinmg :)
Nice bike!
usually there is the thing not to develop shorter than 5min to get en even development- Actually the master roll is usually developed witth low contrast dev,..since the contrast come with the copy (positiv roll for cinema) or with the paper print....
About the light leak: I had a similar problem a few years ago and in my case it was the light seal on the right side of the camera back (where your right hand holds the camera and where the hinge is). Replacing that seal fixed the issue for me. To test, shine a bright light on the right side of the camera for some frames, then tape the side with black tape and shoot the rest of the roll. The seal in my camera (Minolta XD-7) was easy to replace, just a strip of black velvet. Thanks for the video!!
Rodinal is too grainy for me on double X. I like to shoot the film at iso 250 and develop in hc110 1:50, 12min at 20 deg
I have had that problem with light leaks from nick and tricks hand rolled film I then kits the film canister
Interesting! Cheers.
Lovely photographs Rog. Typical isn't it? CatLabs X320 $6.99 aroll in the US and £12.00 here in the UK, that is if you could find it in stock.
Some of the prices are shocking Lensman. Especially Acros II.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I still have 5 rolls of a large lot that I bought from Calumet in 2010. They cost less than £3.00 a roll for a pack of ten. I think the 120 roll was about £2.50.
Is like to try D96 with Ferrania P80 in order to manage its high contrast.
Knight Optical (I think they are in Kent) will do custom sized ANR glass
Thanks Steve!!
Have you considered the door hinge light seal. Try to tape the hinge w black tape after you load and see if it goes away.
Cheers
I've ended up trying two Bellini chems lately. The eco film (an xtol alike), and their eco paper developer. Happy with both, but I don't have enough experience to really judge them. I'll probably stick with the paper one, it's a vitamin-c thing and very low toxicity.
Stick with what you like Tristan. You don't need experience for that. You'll soon know when you want to change things such as sharpness, grain and contrast and fit into a rhythm.
My ecofilm stock solution died sudenly after 5 months and I lost a roll! It was advertised with a 6 months shelflife so watch out of this!
Actually catLabs 320 is not a Kodak XX. It is an aerial surveillance film. It has a clear film, no background tone. It is very thin. It also has some additional sensitivity in the IR light range. I like the film a lot but I do have some issues getting it on reels sometimes as it is so thin that it can sleep from slot in reel.
I wasn't 100% Eich. Thanks
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's repackaged Agfa Aviphot 200 :)
Awesome video! I’ve only developed 5222 with my and do love it. Are you using the mono bath or the other?
Developer and Fixer separate Suzanne.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you! That should have said I have only developed it with hc110! Lol thanks for the info!
Nice looking film. I like the strong contrast & going to try some. 👏👏 Not film, but would be interested in your views on the Leica Q2.
The Q2, once you get used to it, is a brilliant camera to shoot. I shoot it fully manual (apart from ISO I leave on auto) even manual focusing. I kept missing shots on auto focus. And the focus assist inside which is all like green speckles is very useful for manual focus. Downside for me being digital is I don't have a good printer and have to ask the local printer to print for me. Amazingly sharp detailed photos though.
I add, it's a fixed 28mm lens. Great for most areas especially scapes.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks Roger
Nice one Rodger, can you tell the difference between both developers at a normal viewing distance? does the Rodinal appear sharper with the more prominent grain ?
Not at normal viewing distance Andrew. I couldn't tell anyway
I think I’ve got a Durst glass. I’ll check tomorrow and send you a message.
Appreciate it!
Been using XX from a bulk roll. Never seen much difference betwixt D-96 and D-76.
I'd have thought 76 would have given more grain
I might have a spare glass for your enlarger Roger will you be at the car show at Ryde this weekend?
Yes I will be there Katharine. See you there.
I keep trying to put links in to a website about bulk loading 400 ft film and another website that will do a 3D printed bulk loader for 400ft, but RUclips keep taking it down.
Maybe try and put the links to the home pages and without dots.
They come up in my "held for review area" as links in the past have been, let's say, of an adult nature! I'll check soon and approve it.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss o wow, some people were trying to be funny hu! 😄
Hi, I also got that kind of light leak on my Minolta Alpha Sweet II, cant figure out what cause it. Do you have any lead on where is the leak come from?
I've not got a clue! As it is over the frames in pretty much the same place I am suspecting the camera yet the seals are perfect so it is a strange one! First time it happened. Then went away again!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I cover the back cover film window with light seal. Yet to test again.
I wonder how 5222 would do with 1:100 rodinal developing. I will have to try a roll if my local store has one.
Thanks Janne! By the way the tripod finally died! The monopod leg snapped in half. I ordered the same tripod yesterday! The old one did take some battering though!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Oh dear. How did you manage that? Did one of those cows finally get sick of unpaid model work and stomp it? 😀
You will have to employ the misses with one of those hand fans as an air conditioner but only if your brave, they have a habit of exploding.
the catlabs isn't kodak xx. It's most likely from an agfa arial film.
There's a 5222 marked on the edge of the film. A good clue about the Kodak XX film ?
@@francoismassin8649 the film is sourced in the eu and has near ir capabilities. It isn't kodak xx. It's most likely Agfa Aviphot Pan 200 also known as rollei superpan 200.
@cecilsharps Given what you said about near ir capabilities. If you added a deep red filter might you get ir like images?
@@wcwendychapman yep. Rate it at iso 25 and use the appropriate filter.
That light leak looks like "light piping". Probably happened when the film was respooled.
The other roll was fine. Hope I don't see it again
Yeah, that's another reason to not blame the infallible Nikon! I'm betting that Double XX has a thinner film base which will promote light pipping in certain situations. It's been a few years since I shot any of that film (and there's a few in my freezer just itching to be exposed!). I'll check a roll out this week and see what's the what.@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
Did nurse Gladys Emanuel drive her Moggy Minor to the show with her amorous shopkeeper (RIP to both)
Open al Hours LOL
Those Jags are bitchin! Great work as usual.
How many rolls can you develop with 1 liter of the Bellini D96?
I don't know but I'll soo see adjusting the times as it gets used.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you for your answer. Cinestill’s D96 powder developer states that you can develop 16 rolls or 100ft roll of 35mm film with 1 liter of their developer. That might be a good starting point.
A bonus if it goes past 16 rolls then!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss definitely. I will grite to Bellini and ask them. They are good answering customer’s doubts.
Nextime, make your own developer ;)
D96 formula:
Metol 1.50
Sodium Sulfite 75.00
Hydroquinone 1.50
Borax 4.50
Potassium Bromide 0.40
Yep 😃
As usual, start with a pinch of Sodium Sulfite then all the other ingredients in sequence
I believe Borax should be added last
I have the first two for D23. Cheers.
The long leak is in the same position, your camera has a problem mate
I will have to test it and see if I can reproduce it again!
Shoot a factory rolled high quality film like TriX in the same conditions. Re spooled stuff introduces too many variables.