Apologies if you addressed this in another video, but do you have drainage at the footer? I.E., a French drain to carry water away that goes down the basement wall (especially in winter when the basement wall is warmer than the frozen ground). If not, the problem you might face is as follows: While the foam boards provide good protection for the rubber coating from getting scraped and ground off by the backfill, it won't protect from cracks caused by shifting and cracking of the concrete itself, especially right down at the wall-footer seam.. If water is allowed to pool at the footer, it will eventually find it's way in.
Actually, don't bother with Henry 101 if you didn't use a water barrier that folds up on the sides under your slab. The water will seep in from the base of the foundation. In addition, a fabric should be used as well because concrete and thus the Henry 101 will eventually crack on the walls.
Noticed the same thing. The foam is going to be water logged after a couple years and that basement will be damp because of it. Putting foam under ground is a very bad idea. Doesn't matter what manufacturers say, there's plenty of videos of folks pulling soaked XPS out of the ground.
@BreakFreeHomestead inside is already insulated. Heated floors have some thin foil bubble wrap stuff under the slab For the hydronic heating. The thermal camera shows it's warmer than anything else. I'm using more and more fuel every year on this new build and I'm trying to figure out where the heat is going..
Nice, yeah i stopped because i didn't want it exposed above grade as there will be exposed concrete. It really depends on how you plan to finish/side it.
I’m curious why you want to insulate the exterior of the foundation? Why not just insulate on the interior and continue it up into the floor system? I know you’re saying you’re ok with it stopping at grade but why are you ok with that?
Roughly 12 inches of thermal transfer through the concrete won't be that bad. Most of the basement won't be finished and will have nice exposed concrete walls.
If you insulate inside the concrete wicks water into the inside. If you insulate outside then you get better thermal mass and the moisture load inside is less
I really don't understand why Americans keep asking this question? This is beyond me. You insulate the outside of the foundation to keep the concrete dry (and warm, more or less). Keep the freaking water away from concrete. Concrete is like s sponge. Can't you smell that disgusting moisture in most of older US houses? I like Yanks, but boy oh boy, I don't understand them and their thinking. Stay dry and warm at home, not wet, mold and smelly.
Hmm, the data sheet doesn't give a lifespan, this is some pretty gnarly stufff and with it being behind the foam and protected from sunlight i would hope for a very long time.
@@BreakFreeHomestead I'd say that as it ages, even under the ground, what would determine the products continued functioning would be rate of volatile loss and hence flexibility. As it gets harder it is more susceptible to cracking.... Especially since "all concrete cracks eventually" we've all heard. I'm setting up for a build in the latter part of this year and am planning to include the product 'Helix' reinforcement in the mix, in addition to the regular rebar on the plans. But still looking for the right sealer to order. One thing I'm supprised you aren't showing is a drainage mat against the walls and a perforated drain line at the footer?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Apologies if you addressed this in another video, but do you have drainage at the footer? I.E., a French drain to carry water away that goes down the basement wall (especially in winter when the basement wall is warmer than the frozen ground). If not, the problem you might face is as follows: While the foam boards provide good protection for the rubber coating from getting scraped and ground off by the backfill, it won't protect from cracks caused by shifting and cracking of the concrete itself, especially right down at the wall-footer seam.. If water is allowed to pool at the footer, it will eventually find it's way in.
Actually, don't bother with Henry 101 if you didn't use a water barrier that folds up on the sides under your slab. The water will seep in from the base of the foundation. In addition, a fabric should be used as well because concrete and thus the Henry 101 will eventually crack on the walls.
Is there no draining plane? Like a dimple mat?
Noticed the same thing. The foam is going to be water logged after a couple years and that basement will be damp because of it. Putting foam under ground is a very bad idea. Doesn't matter what manufacturers say, there's plenty of videos of folks pulling soaked XPS out of the ground.
It also recommends putting on above 40 degrees
Can a person dig the outside down the foundation and insulate? 4 year old house but the outside foundation was not insulated
@@RoboDriller it would be pretty inefficient I would think and much more cost effective to insulate inside after the fact
@BreakFreeHomestead inside is already insulated. Heated floors have some thin foil bubble wrap stuff under the slab For the hydronic heating. The thermal camera shows it's warmer than anything else. I'm using more and more fuel every year on this new build and I'm trying to figure out where the heat is going..
What did you use to treat the tie holes before you damp proofed? Looks like you sealed them with something.
So i had used a few different things, its in this video here and you can see how they apply differently;
ruclips.net/video/HS603THB8lI/видео.html
I'm about to do this on my first build next week. Why did you stop a foot below the top of the foundation wall? I was planning on going to the top
Nice, yeah i stopped because i didn't want it exposed above grade as there will be exposed concrete. It really depends on how you plan to finish/side it.
I’m curious why you want to insulate the exterior of the foundation? Why not just insulate on the interior and continue it up into the floor system? I know you’re saying you’re ok with it stopping at grade but why are you ok with that?
It will make a marginal difference, it's better than most
Roughly 12 inches of thermal transfer through the concrete won't be that bad. Most of the basement won't be finished and will have nice exposed concrete walls.
If you insulate inside the concrete wicks water into the inside.
If you insulate outside then you get better thermal mass and the moisture load inside is less
I really don't understand why Americans keep asking this question? This is beyond me.
You insulate the outside of the foundation to keep the concrete dry (and warm, more or less). Keep the freaking water away from concrete. Concrete is like s sponge. Can't you smell that disgusting moisture in most of older US houses? I like Yanks, but boy oh boy, I don't understand them and their thinking. Stay dry and warm at home, not wet, mold and smelly.
my neighbors is insulated on outside and inside and it is super warm in winter vs my house
What's the expected lifespan on that coating?
Hmm, the data sheet doesn't give a lifespan, this is some pretty gnarly stufff and with it being behind the foam and protected from sunlight i would hope for a very long time.
@@BreakFreeHomestead I'd say that as it ages, even under the ground, what would determine the products continued functioning would be rate of volatile loss and hence flexibility. As it gets harder it is more susceptible to cracking.... Especially since "all concrete cracks eventually" we've all heard. I'm setting up for a build in the latter part of this year and am planning to include the product 'Helix' reinforcement in the mix, in addition to the regular rebar on the plans.
But still looking for the right sealer to order.
One thing I'm supprised you aren't showing is a drainage mat against the walls and a perforated drain line at the footer?
789 is better
Terrible job "i'm happy with it" get money from client and runaway
lol this is my house thanks man 😂