Hey my power I let broke is there anyway to fix it water must have got in a rusted it cause it to be hard to pull the power cord out of the meter causing it to break
Just through google search. Type in 'part number datasheet'. I can't remember but the displays datasheet I might have found via the listing on ali. You can see the URL in the video so just type it into your browser.
Hi I need your help I'm happy to pay, got a bluelab guardian connect that I was using with the wrong power supply, upon checking the board I found one of the diodes has burnt out, it's the 3 pin black flat rectangular smd diode (on my unit its inline with the power supply connector) on your unit, it's just to the right of your power connector in front of the circular capacitor looking diode. If you could either try to repair it I will pay, or you could direct me to which diode it is and I will pay for that help. The diode burnt out did not have any markings on it so I assume the part that erupted had the part number on it. Could you please help me? Thanks
Hey. I can't take your unit but I think the part you need, as long as the 2 pins on one side are connected together on the board, will be something like a BAV23C-E3-08, 400mA rated. Not sure how much current this unit takes when on but whichever diode you go for will need to be rated to handle it. SBR160S23-7 is 900mA so that's good to. You might have to buy 50 of them. Or, find some electronic junk (laptops often have these) and take it from there. If you see a device like this with the 2 pins connected when on the board it's probably one. Take it off the board and use multimeter to do a diode test, red lead on each of the 2 and black on the single pin on other side, should get about 0.5v drop on each pin. Sometimes only one of the 2 pins is used so it's ok to get no reading on one. Worst case you get one that isn't a high current rating and it fails. Let me know how you go.
ALSO.... if you're careful and you know for sure this is just a protection diode, just connect a wire from the 2 pins over to the single pin which will bypass it. As long as you are using the correct power supply this will work and lets you test the unit is still working and nothing else is damaged. If you are happy with knowing the wrong supply won't be used again you could just leave the wire there. Only do this if the diode is in series i.e. circuit goes positive (red) wire to the 2 pins then the single pin feeds the rest of the board. Don't do this if the negative and positive wire each go to opposite sides of the diode or this could damage the power supply. Hope that's not too confusing :)
@@JonnyFix thanks for such a quick and detailed response. I have uploaded a 45 second video to show the pins etc, could you please have a look 45 seconds mate, also the last diode I mention is not erupted at all but slightly very slightly discoloured on top a tiny splodge of browning on the otherwise black component. My unit is 5volt 1000ma input power, I have a air quality meter that's 6 volt 1000ma and it has a power supply diode but that only has 2 pins, where mine as you can see is a 3 pin, any further insights from the video? Thanks a lot mate 👍ruclips.net/video/zKw7M_c0_2c/видео.html ps I removed the diode, so it's just a space there with 3 solder pads
I'm trying to fix the same unit, mine won't display anything when plugged in. Any idea where to start? I tried two different 5v power supplies. I carefully opened it and no signs of water damage, PCB looked brand new (unit was made in 2014), no signs of shorts or any kind of burn marks on any components. I studied it for a good thirty minutes and everything looked normal visually. I need to buy a multimeter but I was thinking i should start my checking power at that dc-dc regulator, i don't understand why they even have that 5v to 5v converter, the datasheet suggests it's an unregulated power supply anyway. I can't get mine to power on at all, i had to make my own power supply from a ipad 5v 2a charger, maybe i reversed the polarity, i've been using this makeshift 5v power supply with other electronics fine.
i got a DMM, im getting 5.1v out of the power supply. I can measure 5v at dc input on the bluelab gaurdian pcb, im also seeing 5v at the + test lead next to the microprocessor. Still not getting any lights on, when i measure the dc-dc converter i get 5v in and 0v out, but looking at the pcb it seems like the dc-dc converter is for the ph meter portion, seems like the leds should still turn on.. Any idea?
I would start with the dc-dc. See if you can figure out if there's an enable pin to turn it on. If yes and it's enabled or if no enable pin then it should have 5 out and it's probably a good place to start. The micro might do some kind of test and not fully start up if there's a problem. The dc-dc might be there so part of the circuit is on an isolated supply. I don't have mine any more to check.
Hi Jonny. I know is an old video. Picked one of these up used and trying to fix. DC 5v in, no lights from the unit. Micro chip and much of the circuit has voltage. That 5v DC - DC converter on mine does not seem to be putting out any voltage. I voltage across the input pins, none across the output. This converter only has the 4 pins so I don't believe it has a control or "enable" pin. I tried jumping 5v from the incoming pins to the output just to see if anything would happen like you suggested on another comment and no dice. I'm considering buying one anyway to swap just to see but I noticed the 44 pin main microchip is getting quite hot when power is applied - like uncomfortable to touch hot. Does that sound normal for a small chip like this? Chip is a "Microchip PIC 18F2423 - 44 Pin" Hesitant to start throwing parts if the main controller and who knows what else is dead. I know this is a real old video but any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
@@JonathanGoggans Yeah that's too hot. I really don't know without having it in front of me to analyze sorry as I'm not familiar with these and the video I made was the only one I've ever looked at.
Great video Jonny, thank you very much....i have got the same problem...im feeling lucky to find your video...just one thing i dont understand....im about to order new led display but i dont know which i need? Common cathode or common anode? It is the common cathode isnt It? Thank you alot
@@JonnyFix thank you, i have ordered them but i cant remove the old ones....i try few times but now im affraid to not destroy the Board. Do you have a video where i can see how you melt all the pins at same time? if not can you make a quick video? Please
@@sultanjassim6799 I don't have a specific video but look for "how to use solder wick". Either that or cut the display off and de-solder each pin separately. Be careful not to damage anything else.
Thank you @JonnyFix … i tryed with the Temp one as i dont care much for that but i had to stop as i was starting to damage the contacts on the board….maybe my soldering machine not good enough to melt all the pins Fast enough…anyways i was thinking to run some wires outside the case and soldering the new screen on these wires… just im very worried not to fuck up something… so i decided to consult with you first… do you think anything bad can happen if i will have 2 screens same time on the conductivity? The original one and the new one connected by little wires to same places as original one. Can 2 screen burn some resistence or something else? as need too much power to display on the both screens at the same time?
For a start I would test the regulator mentioned at 2:45 make sure you have 5v in when plugged in and then 5 out if so. If no 5 out and no resistance to ground low enough to cause the reg to shut down then replace the reg. If there's a short you need to find what failed. I don't know if this feeds everything and I don't have one to look at. You could connect 5v directly to output to see if it works or to find short by heat.
Was it stored with the power adapter? Often people think wall adapters/plug packs are all the same so if it was misplaced the one you're using may not be right.
'Made in New Zealand' to me, is something of a misnomer when all of the components are Chinese. It would be interesting to see if there are any rules around this. Maybe it should say 'Designed and assembled in New Zealand'.
Indeed. Just look at World Clothing. Problem is electronics are so complex nothing could be 100% NZ made. At least a woollen jumper could be spun off the back of a local sheep :)
Hey there, i have a guardian and recently no matter what probe i use the ph eventually goes to OR. Any ideas on how to repair it?
Hello, can you help me tell me why that piece is heating up? The circled one. The display does not show correctly. tks
Hey my power I let broke is there anyway to fix it water must have got in a rusted it cause it to be hard to pull the power cord out of the meter causing it to break
You're a legend mate, thanks a heap for this video, I'll be ordering some new LCDs
Nice repair! It was a joy to watch.
You're welcome!
Not sure if you are still on youtube but i have a broken unit not disp’aying anything converter show power in and out where did you find those diagram
Just through google search. Type in 'part number datasheet'. I can't remember but the displays datasheet I might have found via the listing on ali. You can see the URL in the video so just type it into your browser.
Hi I need your help I'm happy to pay, got a bluelab guardian connect that I was using with the wrong power supply, upon checking the board I found one of the diodes has burnt out, it's the 3 pin black flat rectangular smd diode (on my unit its inline with the power supply connector) on your unit, it's just to the right of your power connector in front of the circular capacitor looking diode. If you could either try to repair it I will pay, or you could direct me to which diode it is and I will pay for that help. The diode burnt out did not have any markings on it so I assume the part that erupted had the part number on it. Could you please help me? Thanks
Hey. I can't take your unit but I think the part you need, as long as the 2 pins on one side are connected together on the board, will be something like a BAV23C-E3-08, 400mA rated. Not sure how much current this unit takes when on but whichever diode you go for will need to be rated to handle it. SBR160S23-7 is 900mA so that's good to. You might have to buy 50 of them. Or, find some electronic junk (laptops often have these) and take it from there. If you see a device like this with the 2 pins connected when on the board it's probably one. Take it off the board and use multimeter to do a diode test, red lead on each of the 2 and black on the single pin on other side, should get about 0.5v drop on each pin. Sometimes only one of the 2 pins is used so it's ok to get no reading on one. Worst case you get one that isn't a high current rating and it fails. Let me know how you go.
ALSO.... if you're careful and you know for sure this is just a protection diode, just connect a wire from the 2 pins over to the single pin which will bypass it. As long as you are using the correct power supply this will work and lets you test the unit is still working and nothing else is damaged. If you are happy with knowing the wrong supply won't be used again you could just leave the wire there. Only do this if the diode is in series i.e. circuit goes positive (red) wire to the 2 pins then the single pin feeds the rest of the board. Don't do this if the negative and positive wire each go to opposite sides of the diode or this could damage the power supply. Hope that's not too confusing :)
@@JonnyFix thanks for such a quick and detailed response. I have uploaded a 45 second video to show the pins etc, could you please have a look 45 seconds mate, also the last diode I mention is not erupted at all but slightly very slightly discoloured on top a tiny splodge of browning on the otherwise black component. My unit is 5volt 1000ma input power, I have a air quality meter that's 6 volt 1000ma and it has a power supply diode but that only has 2 pins, where mine as you can see is a 3 pin, any further insights from the video? Thanks a lot mate 👍ruclips.net/video/zKw7M_c0_2c/видео.html ps I removed the diode, so it's just a space there with 3 solder
pads
I'm trying to fix the same unit, mine won't display anything when plugged in. Any idea where to start? I tried two different 5v power supplies. I carefully opened it and no signs of water damage, PCB looked brand new (unit was made in 2014), no signs of shorts or any kind of burn marks on any components. I studied it for a good thirty minutes and everything looked normal visually. I need to buy a multimeter but I was thinking i should start my checking power at that dc-dc regulator, i don't understand why they even have that 5v to 5v converter, the datasheet suggests it's an unregulated power supply anyway. I can't get mine to power on at all, i had to make my own power supply from a ipad 5v 2a charger, maybe i reversed the polarity, i've been using this makeshift 5v power supply with other electronics fine.
i got a DMM, im getting 5.1v out of the power supply. I can measure 5v at dc input on the bluelab gaurdian pcb, im also seeing 5v at the + test lead next to the microprocessor. Still not getting any lights on, when i measure the dc-dc converter i get 5v in and 0v out, but looking at the pcb it seems like the dc-dc converter is for the ph meter portion, seems like the leds should still turn on.. Any idea?
I would start with the dc-dc. See if you can figure out if there's an enable pin to turn it on. If yes and it's enabled or if no enable pin then it should have 5 out and it's probably a good place to start. The micro might do some kind of test and not fully start up if there's a problem. The dc-dc might be there so part of the circuit is on an isolated supply. I don't have mine any more to check.
Hi Jonny. I know is an old video. Picked one of these up used and trying to fix. DC 5v in, no lights from the unit. Micro chip and much of the circuit has voltage.
That 5v DC - DC converter on mine does not seem to be putting out any voltage. I voltage across the input pins, none across the output. This converter only has the 4 pins so I don't believe it has a control or "enable" pin.
I tried jumping 5v from the incoming pins to the output just to see if anything would happen like you suggested on another comment and no dice.
I'm considering buying one anyway to swap just to see but I noticed the 44 pin main microchip is getting quite hot when power is applied - like uncomfortable to touch hot.
Does that sound normal for a small chip like this? Chip is a "Microchip PIC 18F2423 - 44 Pin"
Hesitant to start throwing parts if the main controller and who knows what else is dead.
I know this is a real old video but any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
Thermometer readings as high as 170°F on that main chip.
@@JonathanGoggans Yeah that's too hot. I really don't know without having it in front of me to analyze sorry as I'm not familiar with these and the video I made was the only one I've ever looked at.
Great video Jonny, thank you very much....i have got the same problem...im feeling lucky to find your video...just one thing i dont understand....im about to order new led display but i dont know which i need? Common cathode or common anode? It is the common cathode isnt It?
Thank you alot
Yes common cathode. I hope that resolves your problem
@@JonnyFix thank you, i have ordered them but i cant remove the old ones....i try few times but now im affraid to not destroy the Board. Do you have a video where i can see how you melt all the pins at same time? if not can you make a quick video? Please
@@sultanjassim6799 I don't have a specific video but look for "how to use solder wick". Either that or cut the display off and de-solder each pin separately. Be careful not to damage anything else.
Thank you @JonnyFix … i tryed with the Temp one as i dont care much for that but i had to stop as i was starting to damage the contacts on the board….maybe my soldering machine not good enough to melt all the pins Fast enough…anyways i was thinking to run some wires outside the case and soldering the new screen on these wires… just im very worried not to fuck up something… so i decided to consult with you first… do you think anything bad can happen if i will have 2 screens same time on the conductivity? The original one and the new one connected by little wires to same places as original one. Can 2 screen burn some resistence or something else? as need too much power to display on the both screens at the same time?
Are you still around friend? @JonnyFix
I accidentally connected a 12v power supply to mine😭 now nothing works. All the displays flashed bright and now nothing works. Any advice?
For a start I would test the regulator mentioned at 2:45 make sure you have 5v in when plugged in and then 5 out if so. If no 5 out and no resistance to ground low enough to cause the reg to shut down then replace the reg. If there's a short you need to find what failed. I don't know if this feeds everything and I don't have one to look at. You could connect 5v directly to output to see if it works or to find short by heat.
@@JonnyFix👍 thank you
Did you find a fix?
I did the same accidentally overpowered with a 12v and it won’t turn on any longer… is it trash now?
@@p2pat yes use Amazon warranty swap 🤫
Mines not powering up even though it’s not been used just stored for 12 month
Was it stored with the power adapter? Often people think wall adapters/plug packs are all the same so if it was misplaced the one you're using may not be right.
Mine won't stop flashing err on temp. Help!?
I can only think there is a problem with the temperature probe. Check the wires to it aren't broken. If not you may need a new probe.
'Made in New Zealand' to me, is something of a misnomer when all of the components are Chinese. It would be interesting to see if there are any rules around this. Maybe it should say 'Designed and assembled in New Zealand'.
Indeed. Just look at World Clothing. Problem is electronics are so complex nothing could be 100% NZ made. At least a woollen jumper could be spun off the back of a local sheep :)