If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
You're a bloody hero. Rear right door had been deadlocked for a year and would have failed it's MOT today. 3 hours and some stress later I'm sorted. MY MAN
Really helpful video. Fixed lock, Thanks for no muisc, no annoying voice over. Love the cheers at 5:15! Could add info on screw tool sizes especially the hidden screw in the door
Completed thanks to your video, for anyone needing some dimensions for drilling the hole I hope this helps, 45mm down from the dead centre of the hole with the slot as shown at (4.50). I also found it easier to grind a taper on the two plastic dowels to put the window back in place, I used an 8mm bolt with a nut to exert equal pressure to tap the big dowel in using a centre punch in the middle of the bolt head, and exactly the same with a 5mm bolt for the smaller central dowel, whilst pulling the wire to one side, what a pig of a job, thank you VW.
Great video, helped a lot. I found that I didn't need to drill to get access to the screw. Once located, I prized the plate and it snapped off quite easily. Once off the door would open. The window dowel is frightening. I didn't dare hit harder so in the end I screwed a screw into it and pulled it out. Once the centre was out, the outer pushed through easy. Thanks again, without this vid I wouldn't have attempted the job.
Thank you for that video as i followed the all steps and realy helped me to do the same issue as you had. Only i had to find another video where the other guy commented that fiddly part with the removing the plastic pin holding the glass to the bracket. The job was very tough but i did it to the end properly 💪
I've watched a few of people fixing this, this fellow is the best, most clearest visuals, super instructions and very concise. I may have a go! Thanks to this video. Peace be unto you.
Ty vm it works now! I have to add a comment to 3:00. What you have to do here is to remove the two plastic clips. These clips holds the window. You can find the clips in the bottom of the door when you have knocked them out and when the metal panel isremoved. Dont worry about losing them when you knock on them. When everything is done just put them back in the hole when you are sliding the window back in place. Good luck. 😁👍 Btw. I thought that replacing right rear lock would fix the other doors as well but it seems that I have to replace the lock in each door.
Thanks Stefan, I struggled to show how the pins that held the window glass were removed due to their location. You must be really unlucky to have more than one go faulty at the same time. Hope repairing the rest goes well.
Hi Stef. Im struggling with this grommet at 03:00... it seems as if there is smaller plastic fitting inside the bigger grommet. Do we knock out the small one or do we just knock the whole damn grommet through the hole??
@@AstonishingGlasgow Just drilled my right front door on my golf, now the door behind it is experiencing the whiny symptoms before failure... Maybe im just unlucky as well heh. My old polo didn't have these issues but it sure did have other problems.. And on golf mk4 there are 2 10mm bolts holding the window, can't say if it's because I have electric windows or if it's just a built quality difference between golfs and polos.
Thanks so much for the video. I managed to change the rear left lock on my daughters car following this video. I would have had no clue on my own and garage would have charged a fortune.
Excellent funny and informative video with no annoying music. Yes, same happened with mine but caught it while its was in intermittent failure mode. This door lock failure is common across all VW's of this age. But the North American market VW's don't have deadlocks, so can be opened from the inside when they fail. VW don't like North American law suits, leaving the rest of the world potentially deadlocked within their cars.🔒😱🔒
Just finished both right and left rear doors , first door took 5 hrs and the second 1 1/2 hrs. The tricky parts for me , removal of the door card - expect to get brutal ! , and removing the window dowels, knowing now I would order new dowels before starting so I could drill out the centre dowel ( these are two expanding dowels ) , the rest was just fiddling
@@bbluis4u 5mm bolt screwed right through the small dowel, then gentle pulling and twisting with pliers, same with 8mm bolt on large dowel, don't be too brutal and break the glass.
Great vid. Just did this job myself at the weekend. The previous owner had already drilled out my lock so just had an unlockable door... I located a salvage lock from my local yard.. £6. To have made the job even easier, could have just removed the entire inner door panel and swapped them with locks still in place. When I was removing them from the salvage car I found the white plastic shroud the lock sits in is very very brittle, so avoids the risk of breaking it. Got away with it on putting it in my car but I broke the one in the scrap car.
Just want to add my thanks here. Replaced the lock on my 9n3 on Saturday and it's all good now. £23 for the lock on eBay. Couple of issues I had where you had no problems - firstly the removal of the plastic tube wedges in the window lifter, this took quite a bit of persuasion but eventually they both went through (separately of course). Secondly releasing the door pull from the exterior handle - it was almost as if the plastic had bonded in some way. Eventually got this out using a small flat head screwdriver with a little damage to the plastic end. It went back together fine though. Cheers!
Couple of observations/tips. Where Dave is wrenching off the main fabric door card I managed to get my lever under the edge of the metal inner door piece and bent it - so take care with that. The plugs where the main door card are fixed can be seen at 3.17 - as in the holes where the plastic fixers plug in. I found that some stayed on the door card and some stayed on the inner metal door piece - same happened in the video - you can see one that got left in the door frame at 3.17 near to the seat belt anchor. It is best to replace all of these plastic fixers, and it is easiest to remove them from the metal door piece once you have opened the door. You need some force and a flat item like a table knife to level them off. Second thing I found impossible was disconnecting the electric plug. I could not get my fingers round to the release point when the lock was in place. You don't need to. It can wait until you have unbolted the door unit. I'm still pinching myself that I managed to do this job - I have very limited experience in this sort of thing. Only successful because of the video
Brilliant solution thanks, worked on my 2003 Seat Ibiza Mk4 rear passenger door. So, thank you very much for putting it on RUclips, would never have found that little screw, or dreamed of removing it to open the door that has been stuck shut for a year. It did take a few tries with a19mm hole saw to find the screw though!!! its a lot further back to the door edge than you think.
Really glad it worked for you and thanks for letting me know, I will put Mk4 Ibiza on the list of cars it will work for. I put the job off for ages as I thought it would be much harder but other than getting the door card off its easy when you know how.
Thanks for making this very usefull video. The locking mechanism of my polo 9n3 passenger door has died and wont open. To make it really interesting the electric window on that side refuses to open 😮So far I managed to take off both panels but didnt get the door open. You showed which screw to use so im pretty confident ill be able to open it. Just gonna wait until my new lock is delivered because not being able to close the door would s*ck just about as much as not being able to open it. 👍
Thanks very much for this video, it helped me to repair mine. When reassembling, I pushed the plastic roll pins into the window before pushing the window down into the carrier, because I just couldn't get the pins back in place like you did.
I wired in 20 quid third party remote locking kit from eBay to the inside door lock/ unlock switch (takes 30 mins and is easy) and now when I remote lock the doors it does not deadlock so this can’t happen. It’s maybe not quite as secure if someone wanted to break in and was very determined, but I can live with a that.
Did the door lock on my Leon a couple of months ago, caught it before it was stuck shut. Good tip about drilling a hole and unscrewing. The other advice I've seen was to smash the lock apart.
I worked through this with no car experience- and got it done thank you! People have asked for bolt sizes - here you go in order of undoing: Door handle t30 torx Door bolts - 10mm standard bolts Inside handle bolt - t20 torx Lock fixing bolts on side of door M8 Spline The bit I found fiddliest was getting the plastic washer back into the window - I couldn’t get the inner compression part in at all. I too avoided the drill part - the lock is fitted facing upwards - you can just prise the bolt off with a screwdriver- works fine.
I have the exact same problem on the drivers side rear door of a 2005 polo twist. It looks a fiddly job to fix this but thanks for the tutorial video which gives clear guidance. There do seem to be a lot of these reliability niggles with VWs from this era when they cheapened everything down to maximise profits. If only everything in life was as unreliable as a Volkswanken😁
Glad it helped. I think all car manufacturers cheapened down components and at the same time tried to add more and more features making things more complicated. It is really bad now with new cars when you cant just replace a part you need to program the part into the ECU. The part may only cost £20 but you need a £200 fault code reader to make it work on the car.
Hey man, top video. Really helpful, I really wouldn't have had a clue how to fix this otherwise. Many thanks, have subscribed and will be back to fix more stuff on my wife's Polo no doubt. I'd also like to say that the presentation, camera angles etc. are spot on. No unnecessary chit-chat, no awful music, just a few helpful captions/warnings and get on with the job. Didn't have a spline drive to hand on a Sunday afternoon, so had to resort to the dreaded mole-grips. Worked a treat though, jobs a good 'un 👍
Brilliant, really glad you found the video useful and thanks for the kind words. I was getting fed up watching videos where the first 20 minutes was how to jack up the car so started making these straight to the point style how to videos and its great to hear that people are finding them helpful. Take care and glad you got it sorted.
Thanks a lot for the video. Fiddly job but I managed. Like others, my window pins (dowels?) did not come out easily at all. I had to squirt a small bit of WD40, and thread a 5mm bolt into the small inside pin. Even then it would not pull out with any reasonable amount of force (didn’t want to break the glass!) so I wiggled it and pulled the bolt gradually bit by bit and it eventually shifted. Once the centre one was out the outside one could be pushed out gently and carefully. I also reinstalled and centred the window dowels whilst I had the window taped up in the highest position and before I put everything back together. Then once the metal panel was back on I I removed the tape and slid it down into the plastic holder where it clicked into place no issue.
I realised that the metal latch (that is the thing that you want to get off to release the lock), that the 'dreaded' screw holds on is actually quite flimsy - so rather than drill a hole in the door, I used a large flat blade screwdriver to prise the metal lever that is attached to the screw off the lock itself and with that came the screw - it didn't take much force at all, and much better than drilling through the door....
Vielen Dank. Genau die Anleitung, die ich brauchte. Es gibt wohl verschiedene Ersatz-Schlösser. Mein Ersatz hat keine Sicherung für den Schließbügel (Draht nach vorn). Der rutschte dann heraus. Habe ihn weggelassen.
Just got mine finished! I have drilled a cloverleaf of holes instead of one, HaHa! And three attempts to get the plastic spigot back into the window lifter! Top Tip, don't put all the screws back into the panel until the window spigot is refitted, if you just do the top two corners you can fish out the spigot when you push it through the glass.! Great video, saved loads of knuckle skin and swearing. Cheers!
Dont say the multiple holes were a mistake. Tell people you were adding lightness like a race car and your MPG has gone through the roof :-) Glad you got it sorted, Dave.
Hi, I did everything what was shown in the video. The door still doesn’t function correctly. seems to only open sometimes from the inside when locked, this happens when I fiddle around with locking and closing the car a couple times. Or when I start pulling really hard from the outside after a long time fiddling around with closing and locking
Thanks also from me. Just those"Hey RUclips, how are doing today" and "WhatsUp Bro..." comments are missing. No seriously - no one needs those cool playing RUclipsrs. At the end your face looks quite unrelaxed when you try to put this plastic pin into the plastic ferrule that holds the screen in place. But you know what: I don't want to know how my face looked !!!! :-) I did the repair in august in Cyprus. It did NOT start raining. But I guess it was ca. 30°C when I did it. In the end I could hardly touch the metal plate that gets screwed with those M10 screws. In the end I did not have to replace the lock. I simply opened the lock. I had to do it anyway because this screw TX20 that you have to loosen in order to unlock the door makes the inside fall apart. After I managed to put everything back in place I only left this white plastic cover away. I though maybe this is rubbing somewhere and causing the door lock mechanism not to reset properly. And it worked. So for 0 € I repaired this lock .... after more than 2 years !!!!
Hi Tobias, glad you got it sorted and hope my video helped. Not sure I would have enjoyed doing the job in 30C, I would be happy if it would just stay dry.
Bravo, buon lavoro, certo però che la VW poteva fare le cose un pò più semplici. Ma gli attrezzi poi ce li hai ritrovati sulla strada? 😊 Grazie del video, molto utile per smontare l'elettroserratura della mia vecchia Polo 9N del 2003. Buona vita 👋👋
If you hold the internal door handle in the open position while pressing lock and unlock on the internal lock switch it relesed the door lock so you can open the door to fix it. ( That what happened on mine anyway)
If anyone has the same problem i would suggest trying one thing first.. while the car is on, all doors closed use the lock unlock buttons on the drivers door quickly in a sequence lock lock unlock. Try for a couple of times if it doesn't work, sometimes it goes on the first try. It will go back to the same permanent locked position after locking the car again but it will make this job a lot easier.
Very helpful video, thanks. I'm halfway through the job. Unfortunately, when trying to tap the plastic dowel out of the window, the glass shattered. I have the replacement and will attempt to reassemble.
I’ve just finished replacing the right hand rear door auto lock , the window dowels were by far the trickiest, from another channel he used a 5 mm bolt for the inner and 8 mm for the outer dowel, just screw the 5 mm in a little and pull , same with the 8 mm for the outer - works a treat
Since in my country Toyota is the major selling car, I and many used to think German cars are best, but after owning VW polo and seeing many complains of people from other brands like bmw and audi I realize the value of toyota and their reliability. Nothing comes close to Japanese cars!
Thats a broken door switch not lock module. To replace that takes 10 min. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/241178-diy-replace-door-courtesy-door-jamb-switch-fix-door-ajar-light.html
Thanks heaps man! I was looking up and down youtube for a demonstration how to fix this, finally found it and can go to work! What part type did you order? Simply "rear right door lock"? *edit* never mind, you already answered it - door lock module. Noted and thanks again!
4.51 min don’t drill a hole to get at the old locking screw- use a long flat blade screw driver, slide it in from the side of the lock and put it up against the plastic part that the screw holds on. Now use a hammer to use the screw driver like a chisel and just break away the plastic lever- it’s quite easy to break off- the screw comes with it and you can now open the door using the cable pull…
Hello, thank you very much for this explanatory video. After following your advice, I installed a new lock and the problem is still the same. Door blocked 🥴 do you think there is a problem with the electrical wiring harness located in the door??
Sorry to hear swapping the module didn't help. Did you go through and double check the connections and that the rod for the lock button operated the lever on the correct side so that it wasn't binding? If that is correct then it may be that the wiring loom has split as it passes through the door jam. Quickest way to check is to pull back the rubber boot and look for split wires. I hope you get sorted.
You made removing the electric plug from the lock mechanism look so easy. Im struggling with that part as I cannot see how its holds or clip on? Please help if can. Very useful video thank you for the upload.
The trick with these plugs is to press them together to squash the rubber seal inside. This takes the pressure off the clip then press in the end of the raised part. It is really hard to describe but once you have done it once you know how to do it again.
@@AstonishingGlasgow My biggest miss for the video was on how to remove the plastic portion holding the window in place with cables. To anyone reading the comments to save yourself a headache like me is remove circular part holding the window in place be careful not to damage glass. refer to 3:00 on this video
Great video. Unfortunately I am no closer to resolution. I have followed your instructions carefully after originally trying the many 'solutions' available on the internet. My son and myself created much amusment in a local supermarket carpark as we practically destroyed the offside side of my Polo, clicking. snapping and kicking. NOTHING! Finally gave in and proceeded to nearly destroy the door card but suceeded with that. Fiddled around trying to move various levers, etc. NOTHING! Drilled hole as instructed and loosened screw which has disappeared somewhere. I'm left with a hand-full of screws, levers and various other bits and pieces. STILL DEADLOCKED and immovable. To beat it all I can't for the life of me get that electrical connection off. I'm on the point of cutting that off now. Do you suggest a jack hammer? I have no intention in spending £300 for some 'technician' to fiddle around with. Any ideas? Thanks
Dont grab the jackhammer just yet. If you are replacing the lock module anyway, damage the old one until it surrenders. Use the internal door pull cable incase the pull for the outer handle is detatched and vice versa. For the electrical connector, push it on to release pressure on the securing tab then push down on the end of the tab and pull. They are awkward wee buggers but will release eventually though once the door is open you can remmove the module with the wiring still attached and release the connector with better access.
This was a really hard part of the process to show in the video because of the lack of access. The dowel is in 2 parts, the outer (larger part) is open then the smaller pin goes in the hole to apply pressure. If you can, knock through the pin in the middle then the outer dowel should push through. Try a little WD40 on it and move the glass op and down with your hand to relieve pressure on the pin to see if that helps. I know from comments a few people have had issues getting the pin out so persevere.
it's bizarre how complicated opening and closing blocking a door can be especially if you are an engineer and loved terrorizing car owners shade trees mechanics like me. Took me hours and hours and hours.
I have a polo 9n 2.0 but it has electric windows, the rear door was deadlocked for months but one day i punch it while trying to unlock it and opened lol
Take it as a warning that it has started occasionally playing up. Mine was the same until the day that no punching, hitting or key twiddling would open it. Its much easier to fix when you can still get the door open.
I dont know exactly what is causing that but the first thing to check is under the scuttle panel (at the bottom of the windscreen) and make sure the drain hole is not blocked with leaves. You may need to remove the wiper arms to get the plastic cover off but this is the source of most wet footwells. While you are there, check the cabin filter on the inside of the car, details on that are in this video ruclips.net/video/otCSTPdNfxk/видео.html If the pollen filter is wet, replace it before bacteria takes hold.
I used a 10 mm drill after measuring the centre of the screw to the edge of the door pressing. You dont need the screw to pass through the hole, once its unscrewed and falls into the door the lock is disabled.
I have the exact same issue on my 52 plate Polo 9N rear left door (car has central locking). How do I know which lock to get as there seem to be several different variations for the door?
Unfortunately you only really have 2 options. Remove the lock you have and match it but leave you car open until the replacement gets to you or order as many variations as you can afford and check the supplier has a return policy.
Is there any difference in changing the backdoor lock or the front door lock, or is it the same job, different door ? Thank you so much for these videos !
Hi, I finally got this done after getting the right side. The problem I have is when I close the door with too much force it bounces open. If I close softly or push closed it's done and it locks unlocks and opens fine. I Stripped the door a second time to see if something was out of alignment but all looked fine. Adjusted the strike bar but didn't help. Is the most likely cause a faulty module or could I have aligned something incorrectly?
I have exactly the same issue on my 1970 VW Type3 but thats more to do with the air pressure in the car when closing the door with force. Try closing the door quickly with some force but with a window open and see if that changes anything. It might be the module is faulty, it might be that it takes a while to bed in or it might just be something you need to live with. Depends how much it annoys you versus the sending it back for another module to do the job again?
@@AstonishingGlasgow hi thanks for the reply, will try the window to see. It's definitely improved slightly since I did it, so maybe just bedding in. I can live with it for sure one it gets through the nct (Irish equivalent of mot)!! Thanks a million for the reply and again for the video. Would have been an impossible job without it!
Im glad it helped. Live with it a few days and I bet it will improve, either by bedding in or you will get the knack for closing it with just the right amount of slam. All the best with the NCT.
mate this video is great!!!! mine locks/unlocks sometimes but majority of the time stays manually pushed into locked position, can I fix it the same way?
Sorry Sophie, I thought I had already replied to this. Yes, this will be the way to fix the problem but learn from my mistake and fix it now while it opens sometimes. Its a far easier job when you dont need to get the door card off with the door locked shut.
Hello! Are those front mudflaps stock? My 9n (post-facelift) does not have it, of course the mud was accumulating behind the fender for 10 years, so it started to rust there. It is quite annoying, I'll have to repair the paint, remove rust, etc. On your car I do not see rust there, although on most of the polos, golfs I see the sill rusting due to this.
The mudflaps were fitted when I bought the car but they were a good fit so I assume they are a dealer option fit. There was a patch of rust on this cars sill and it did gather a small amount of dirt behind the mudflaps where they meet the wing/sill but at least they stopped the stone chips.
If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
Hello. how to contact you ?
You're a bloody hero. Rear right door had been deadlocked for a year and would have failed it's MOT today. 3 hours and some stress later I'm sorted. MY MAN
Really helpful video. Fixed lock, Thanks for no muisc, no annoying voice over. Love the cheers at 5:15! Could add info on screw tool sizes especially the hidden screw in the door
Completed thanks to your video, for anyone needing some dimensions for drilling the hole I hope this helps, 45mm down from the dead centre of the hole with the slot as shown at (4.50). I also found it easier to grind a taper on the two plastic dowels to put the window back in place, I used an 8mm bolt with a nut to exert equal pressure to tap the big dowel in using a centre punch in the middle of the bolt head, and exactly the same with a 5mm bolt for the smaller central dowel, whilst pulling the wire to one side, what a pig of a job, thank you VW.
Watching your video removed any thought i had about replacing my self the lock, Bless you man!
Great video, helped a lot. I found that I didn't need to drill to get access to the screw. Once located, I prized the plate and it snapped off quite easily. Once off the door would open.
The window dowel is frightening. I didn't dare hit harder so in the end I screwed a screw into it and pulled it out. Once the centre was out, the outer pushed through easy.
Thanks again, without this vid I wouldn't have attempted the job.
Thank you for that video as i followed the all steps and realy helped me to do the same issue as you had. Only i had to find another video where the other guy commented that fiddly part with the removing the plastic pin holding the glass to the bracket. The job was very tough but i did it to the end properly 💪
VW should give you an award. Brilliant. Thank you 🚙🙂
I've watched a few of people fixing this, this fellow is the best, most clearest visuals, super instructions and very concise. I may have a go! Thanks to this video. Peace be unto you.
Ty vm it works now! I have to add a comment to 3:00. What you have to do here is to remove the two plastic clips. These clips holds the window. You can find the clips in the bottom of the door when you have knocked them out and when the metal panel isremoved. Dont worry about losing them when you knock on them. When everything is done just put them back in the hole when you are sliding the window back in place. Good luck. 😁👍 Btw. I thought that replacing right rear lock would fix the other doors as well but it seems that I have to replace the lock in each door.
Thanks Stefan, I struggled to show how the pins that held the window glass were removed due to their location. You must be really unlucky to have more than one go faulty at the same time. Hope repairing the rest goes well.
You couldn't just unscrew these 4 bolts on b post.. On the column between front and back door to free the door? ?
No access to the bolts on the B post when the door is jammed closed.
Hi Stef. Im struggling with this grommet at 03:00... it seems as if there is smaller plastic fitting inside the bigger grommet. Do we knock out the small one or do we just knock the whole damn grommet through the hole??
@@AstonishingGlasgow Just drilled my right front door on my golf, now the door behind it is experiencing the whiny symptoms before failure... Maybe im just unlucky as well heh.
My old polo didn't have these issues but it sure did have other problems..
And on golf mk4 there are 2 10mm bolts holding the window, can't say if it's because I have electric windows or if it's just a built quality difference between golfs and polos.
Wow, thx for this awesome video!!! best tutorial around!
Thanks so much for the video. I managed to change the rear left lock on my daughters car following this video. I would have had no clue on my own and garage would have charged a fortune.
Glad you got it sorted. Its a surprisingly common fault on this era of Audi VW.
Excellent funny and informative video with no annoying music. Yes, same happened with mine but caught it while its was in intermittent failure mode. This door lock failure is common across all VW's of this age. But the North American market VW's don't have deadlocks, so can be opened from the inside when they fail. VW don't like North American law suits, leaving the rest of the world potentially deadlocked within their cars.🔒😱🔒
Just finished both right and left rear doors , first door took 5 hrs and the second 1 1/2 hrs. The tricky parts for me , removal of the door card - expect to get brutal ! , and removing the window dowels, knowing now I would order new dowels before starting so I could drill out the centre dowel ( these are two expanding dowels ) , the rest was just fiddling
Still struggling with removing the window dowels
@@bbluis4u 5mm bolt screwed right through the small dowel, then gentle pulling and twisting with pliers, same with 8mm bolt on large dowel, don't be too brutal and break the glass.
Best video on doing the 9N Polo "dreaded rear door lock mechanism up the creek" by far - thank you!
Thanks Mr Jimbo, hope it helped.
@@AstonishingGlasgow my door is now open after a little drilling. Result!
Brilliant, glad you got it sorted.
Great vid. Just did this job myself at the weekend. The previous owner had already drilled out my lock so just had an unlockable door... I located a salvage lock from my local yard.. £6. To have made the job even easier, could have just removed the entire inner door panel and swapped them with locks still in place. When I was removing them from the salvage car I found the white plastic shroud the lock sits in is very very brittle, so avoids the risk of breaking it. Got away with it on putting it in my car but I broke the one in the scrap car.
Just want to add my thanks here. Replaced the lock on my 9n3 on Saturday and it's all good now. £23 for the lock on eBay. Couple of issues I had where you had no problems - firstly the removal of the plastic tube wedges in the window lifter, this took quite a bit of persuasion but eventually they both went through (separately of course). Secondly releasing the door pull from the exterior handle - it was almost as if the plastic had bonded in some way. Eventually got this out using a small flat head screwdriver with a little damage to the plastic end. It went back together fine though. Cheers!
Rely glad you got it sorted. A few folk have said the window pins caused them an issue so I must have been lucky for them to pop through so easily.
Couple of observations/tips. Where Dave is wrenching off the main fabric door card I managed to get my lever under the edge of the metal inner door piece and bent it - so take care with that. The plugs where the main door card are fixed can be seen at 3.17 - as in the holes where the plastic fixers plug in. I found that some stayed on the door card and some stayed on the inner metal door piece - same happened in the video - you can see one that got left in the door frame at 3.17 near to the seat belt anchor. It is best to replace all of these plastic fixers, and it is easiest to remove them from the metal door piece once you have opened the door. You need some force and a flat item like a table knife to level them off. Second thing I found impossible was disconnecting the electric plug. I could not get my fingers round to the release point when the lock was in place. You don't need to. It can wait until you have unbolted the door unit. I'm still pinching myself that I managed to do this job - I have very limited experience in this sort of thing. Only successful because of the video
Brilliant solution thanks, worked on my 2003 Seat Ibiza Mk4 rear passenger door. So, thank you very much for putting it on RUclips, would never have found that little screw, or dreamed of removing it to open the door that has been stuck shut for a year. It did take a few tries with a19mm hole saw to find the screw though!!! its a lot further back to the door edge than you think.
Really glad it worked for you and thanks for letting me know, I will put Mk4 Ibiza on the list of cars it will work for. I put the job off for ages as I thought it would be much harder but other than getting the door card off its easy when you know how.
Thank you so much for this! Wouldn't have had a hope without your video - excellent! :)
MOT due in a month which it would have failed cause of this. Just spent the afternoon following your vid to fix it. Thank you! Was a great help!
Glad it helped!
Brilliant. Just about to start the same job and very amateur - hope I am as successful
Awesome. We have a 9n polo. Same door problem. Driver rear. Will watch couple of times then attempt.
You will get on fine. Hardest part is freeing the door card without causing too much damage.
Thanks for making this very usefull video. The locking mechanism of my polo 9n3 passenger door has died and wont open. To make it really interesting the electric window on that side refuses to open 😮So far I managed to take off both panels but didnt get the door open. You showed which screw to use so im pretty confident ill be able to open it. Just gonna wait until my new lock is delivered because not being able to close the door would s*ck just about as much as not being able to open it. 👍
Il miglior video per riparare la serratura dello sportello posteriore
That is the best video for that common issue! Helps a lot if you want to save some money and do it yourself. Great job!
Thanks 👍
Un grand merci pour cette vidéo précise et parfaite.
Elle m' a aidé à réparer les deux portes arrière de ma polo et réaliser une sacrée économie.
Vous êtes les bienvenus et je suis heureux que la vidéo ait aidé.
Fantastic video. Thanks to it I was able to open the door.
Thanks, brilliant video and saves loads in garage labour costs
great video. now i have to replace my locked backdoor vw polo 2005 9n because it works every other day. thank's for the video !!!
Thanks very much for this video, it helped me to repair mine.
When reassembling, I pushed the plastic roll pins into the window before pushing the window down into the carrier, because I just couldn't get the pins back in place like you did.
Its always good to hear the video was a help and Im really glad you got it fixed.
Sorry my English is TERRIBLE, have the same Problem, and your Video have help my verry much.
Jürgen from Germany
I wired in 20 quid third party remote locking kit from eBay to the inside door lock/ unlock switch (takes 30 mins and is easy) and now when I remote lock the doors it does not deadlock so this can’t happen. It’s maybe not quite as secure if someone wanted to break in and was very determined, but I can live with a that.
Did the door lock on my Leon a couple of months ago, caught it before it was stuck shut. Good tip about drilling a hole and unscrewing. The other advice I've seen was to smash the lock apart.
Thanks man! Now I have a well functioning door again thank to you!
that "ooofff" at the end soo relatable xD
great videos champ
I worked through this with no car experience- and got it done thank you!
People have asked for bolt sizes - here you go in order of undoing:
Door handle t30 torx
Door bolts - 10mm standard bolts
Inside handle bolt - t20 torx
Lock fixing bolts on side of door M8 Spline
The bit I found fiddliest was getting the plastic washer back into the window - I couldn’t get the inner compression part in at all.
I too avoided the drill part - the lock is fitted facing upwards - you can just prise the bolt off with a screwdriver- works fine.
I have the exact same problem on the drivers side rear door of a 2005 polo twist. It looks a fiddly job to fix this but thanks for the tutorial video which gives clear guidance. There do seem to be a lot of these reliability niggles with VWs from this era when they cheapened everything down to maximise profits.
If only everything in life was as unreliable as a Volkswanken😁
Glad it helped. I think all car manufacturers cheapened down components and at the same time tried to add more and more features making things more complicated. It is really bad now with new cars when you cant just replace a part you need to program the part into the ECU. The part may only cost £20 but you need a £200 fault code reader to make it work on the car.
Brilliant video. Very helpful. Only thing I didn't do was put the rubber grommet back for the window😂
Hey man, top video. Really helpful, I really wouldn't have had a clue how to fix this otherwise. Many thanks, have subscribed and will be back to fix more stuff on my wife's Polo no doubt. I'd also like to say that the presentation, camera angles etc. are spot on. No unnecessary chit-chat, no awful music, just a few helpful captions/warnings and get on with the job. Didn't have a spline drive to hand on a Sunday afternoon, so had to resort to the dreaded mole-grips. Worked a treat though, jobs a good 'un 👍
Brilliant, really glad you found the video useful and thanks for the kind words. I was getting fed up watching videos where the first 20 minutes was how to jack up the car so started making these straight to the point style how to videos and its great to hear that people are finding them helpful. Take care and glad you got it sorted.
Thanks a lot for the video. Fiddly job but I managed. Like others, my window pins (dowels?) did not come out easily at all. I had to squirt a small bit of WD40, and thread a 5mm bolt into the small inside pin. Even then it would not pull out with any reasonable amount of force (didn’t want to break the glass!) so I wiggled it and pulled the bolt gradually bit by bit and it eventually shifted. Once the centre one was out the outside one could be pushed out gently and carefully. I also reinstalled and centred the window dowels whilst I had the window taped up in the highest position and before I put everything back together. Then once the metal panel was back on I I removed the tape and slid it down into the plastic holder where it clicked into place no issue.
I realised that the metal latch (that is the thing that you want to get off to release the lock), that the 'dreaded' screw holds on is actually quite flimsy - so rather than drill a hole in the door, I used a large flat blade screwdriver to prise the metal lever that is attached to the screw off the lock itself and with that came the screw - it didn't take much force at all, and much better than drilling through the door....
thank you for the nice video, I managed to replace the lock with your guidance!
Glad it helped
This just happened to me as well, rear left door.
Fun times, your video will help a lot!
Same
Vielen Dank. Genau die Anleitung, die ich brauchte. Es gibt wohl verschiedene Ersatz-Schlösser. Mein Ersatz hat keine Sicherung für den Schließbügel (Draht nach vorn). Der rutschte dann heraus. Habe ihn weggelassen.
Just got mine finished!
I have drilled a cloverleaf of holes instead of one, HaHa!
And three attempts to get the plastic spigot back into the window lifter!
Top Tip, don't put all the screws back into the panel until the window spigot is refitted, if you just do the top two corners you can fish out the spigot when you push it through the glass.!
Great video, saved loads of knuckle skin and swearing.
Cheers!
Dont say the multiple holes were a mistake. Tell people you were adding lightness like a race car and your MPG has gone through the roof :-)
Glad you got it sorted, Dave.
Thanks for the video couldn't have done the job otherwise.!!
Great video
I too cheered at the right moment 😀
Amazingly fiddly , would have been stuffed without this .. thank you A LOT 👍👍
A big thank you from France your video helped me a lot good job !!!!!!!!👍👍👍
Hi, I did everything what was shown in the video. The door still doesn’t function correctly. seems to only open sometimes from the inside when locked, this happens when I fiddle around with locking and closing the car a couple times. Or when I start pulling really hard from the outside after a long time fiddling around with closing and locking
thank you so mush!! i have EXACTLY the same problem!!!!
just what i needed. i have a 9n3 and the left rear door is locked
I also have a 9n3 and also the left rear door locked
Fabby video. Helped me out brilliantly. Cheers
Thanks also from me. Just those"Hey RUclips, how are doing today" and "WhatsUp Bro..." comments are missing. No seriously - no one needs those cool playing RUclipsrs. At the end your face looks quite unrelaxed when you try to put this plastic pin into the plastic ferrule that holds the screen in place. But you know what: I don't want to know how my face looked !!!! :-) I did the repair in august in Cyprus. It did NOT start raining. But I guess it was ca. 30°C when I did it. In the end I could hardly touch the metal plate that gets screwed with those M10 screws.
In the end I did not have to replace the lock. I simply opened the lock. I had to do it anyway because this screw TX20 that you have to loosen in order to unlock the door makes the inside fall apart. After I managed to put everything back in place I only left this white plastic cover away. I though maybe this is rubbing somewhere and causing the door lock mechanism not to reset properly. And it worked. So for 0 € I repaired this lock .... after more than 2 years !!!!
Hi Tobias, glad you got it sorted and hope my video helped. Not sure I would have enjoyed doing the job in 30C, I would be happy if it would just stay dry.
thank you very much!!! I have the same problem on my Polo! 🙂
Merci monsieur ! J’avais le même problème, grâce à votre vidéo j’ai pu réparer pour 36€ !
@BTJustice Thanks very much for this, made my life soooo much easier swapping this out.
Bravo, buon lavoro, certo però che la VW poteva fare le cose un pò più semplici.
Ma gli attrezzi poi ce li hai ritrovati sulla strada? 😊
Grazie del video, molto utile per smontare l'elettroserratura della mia vecchia Polo 9N del 2003.
Buona vita 👋👋
If you hold the internal door handle in the open position while pressing lock and unlock on the internal lock switch it relesed the door lock so you can open the door to fix it. ( That what happened on mine anyway)
Sadly I wasnt that lucky. No amount of holding buttons or pulling both handles worked for me.
Great video. Extremely useful thanks!
I fixed my door alone !! Danke !
If anyone has the same problem i would suggest trying one thing first..
while the car is on, all doors closed use the lock unlock buttons on the drivers door quickly in a sequence lock lock unlock. Try for a couple of times if it doesn't work, sometimes it goes on the first try.
It will go back to the same permanent locked position after locking the car again but it will make this job a lot easier.
Very helpful video, thanks. I'm halfway through the job. Unfortunately, when trying to tap the plastic dowel out of the window, the glass shattered. I have the replacement and will attempt to reassemble.
Aaargh, thats a bit of a catastrophe with the glass but hopefully the reassembly will go better.
I’ve just finished replacing the right hand rear door auto lock , the window dowels were by far the trickiest, from another channel he used a 5 mm bolt for the inner and 8 mm for the outer dowel, just screw the 5 mm in a little and pull , same with the 8 mm for the outer - works a treat
Since in my country Toyota is the major selling car, I and many used to think German cars are best, but after owning VW polo and seeing many complains of people from other brands like bmw and audi I realize the value of toyota and their reliability. Nothing comes close to Japanese cars!
Soo true Masha Allah
Planning to do this on the front door of my 2000 Golf SDi as the door no longer operates the cabin light. Thanks.
Thats a broken door switch not lock module. To replace that takes 10 min. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/241178-diy-replace-door-courtesy-door-jamb-switch-fix-door-ajar-light.html
thank you so much for this video, very helpful, just saved 300€ thanks to you!
Thanks heaps man! I was looking up and down youtube for a demonstration how to fix this, finally found it and can go to work! What part type did you order? Simply "rear right door lock"?
*edit* never mind, you already answered it - door lock module. Noted and thanks again!
So glad its was useful, good luck with the job.
Congratulations. Very Helpful.
4.51 min don’t drill a hole to get at the old locking screw- use a long flat blade screw driver, slide it in from the side of the lock and put it up against the plastic part that the screw holds on. Now use a hammer to use the screw driver like a chisel and just break away the plastic lever- it’s quite easy to break off- the screw comes with it and you can now open the door using the cable pull…
brilliant saved me a fortune good vid
Hello, thank you very much for this explanatory video. After following your advice, I installed a new lock and the problem is still the same. Door blocked 🥴 do you think there is a problem with the electrical wiring harness located in the door??
Sorry to hear swapping the module didn't help. Did you go through and double check the connections and that the rod for the lock button operated the lever on the correct side so that it wasn't binding? If that is correct then it may be that the wiring loom has split as it passes through the door jam. Quickest way to check is to pull back the rubber boot and look for split wires. I hope you get sorted.
Thanks!!!! From Hungary.
Thank you for this video. It’s really helpful. Could you also do key synchronization?
Im really glad you found the video useful. Unfortunately I cant do key synchronization as I have no access to vagcom.
You made removing the electric plug from the lock mechanism look so easy. Im struggling with that part as I cannot see how its holds or clip on? Please help if can. Very useful video thank you for the upload.
4:07
The trick with these plugs is to press them together to squash the rubber seal inside. This takes the pressure off the clip then press in the end of the raised part. It is really hard to describe but once you have done it once you know how to do it again.
Go to 3:45 on my audi door lock video for a better idea on how the clip works; ruclips.net/video/MCFaWlO6bUY/видео.html
I actually removed the lock mechanism first then unclipped the plug.
@@AstonishingGlasgow My biggest miss for the video was on how to remove the plastic portion holding the window in place with cables. To anyone reading the comments to save yourself a headache like me is remove circular part holding the window in place be careful not to damage glass. refer to 3:00 on this video
Any upload on opening up of the faulty actuator and cleaning / diagnose it?
Nope. For £20 I just swapped over the part and got the door working.
Dankeschön. So ging es Prima. Super. Vielen Dank.
Tolles Video 👍danke für die Hilfe
Freue mich zu helfen
You beaut!! Exatcly what I'm on with now !!
Thank you so much for this video.
You are very welcome, I hope it helped.
@@AstonishingGlasgow it did. We’ve just finished. Door works a lovely and took about 3hrs. 👍
Thanks for your video it helps alot
Thanks from France
Great video.
Unfortunately I am no closer to resolution.
I have followed your instructions carefully after originally trying the many 'solutions' available on the internet.
My son and myself created much amusment in a local supermarket carpark as we practically destroyed the offside side of my Polo, clicking. snapping and kicking. NOTHING!
Finally gave in and proceeded to nearly destroy the door card but suceeded with that.
Fiddled around trying to move various levers, etc. NOTHING!
Drilled hole as instructed and loosened screw which has disappeared somewhere.
I'm left with a hand-full of screws, levers and various other bits and pieces. STILL DEADLOCKED and immovable.
To beat it all I can't for the life of me get that electrical connection off. I'm on the point of cutting that off now.
Do you suggest a jack hammer?
I have no intention in spending £300 for some 'technician' to fiddle around with.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dont grab the jackhammer just yet.
If you are replacing the lock module anyway, damage the old one until it surrenders. Use the internal door pull cable incase the pull for the outer handle is detatched and vice versa.
For the electrical connector, push it on to release pressure on the securing tab then push down on the end of the tab and pull. They are awkward wee buggers but will release eventually though once the door is open you can remmove the module with the wiring still attached and release the connector with better access.
Great, how long to do the job, when once you get the hang of it .
Think I spent a couple of hours getting the door panel off and the door open then around an hour replacing the module.
Wow! Amazing but how did you disengaged the panel from the glass holder 🤔 though?
This was a really hard part of the process to show in the video because of the lack of access. The dowel is in 2 parts, the outer (larger part) is open then the smaller pin goes in the hole to apply pressure. If you can, knock through the pin in the middle then the outer dowel should push through. Try a little WD40 on it and move the glass op and down with your hand to relieve pressure on the pin to see if that helps. I know from comments a few people have had issues getting the pin out so persevere.
You are a genius mate, I did as you said and mission accomplished 👍
Superb, Im glad you got sorted.
Super utile aceste filmulețe,multumim
it's bizarre how complicated opening and closing blocking a door can be especially if you are an engineer and loved terrorizing car owners shade trees mechanics like me. Took me hours and hours and hours.
I have a polo 9n 2.0 but it has electric windows, the rear door was deadlocked for months but one day i punch it while trying to unlock it and opened lol
Take it as a warning that it has started occasionally playing up. Mine was the same until the day that no punching, hitting or key twiddling would open it. Its much easier to fix when you can still get the door open.
My current problem is that the passager side get wet while the AC is on, do you know how to fix it?
I dont know exactly what is causing that but the first thing to check is under the scuttle panel (at the bottom of the windscreen) and make sure the drain hole is not blocked with leaves. You may need to remove the wiper arms to get the plastic cover off but this is the source of most wet footwells. While you are there, check the cabin filter on the inside of the car, details on that are in this video ruclips.net/video/otCSTPdNfxk/видео.html If the pollen filter is wet, replace it before bacteria takes hold.
Hi great video...please do you have some dimensions in mm for reference of where to drill a hole in the door ?
I used a 10 mm drill after measuring the centre of the screw to the edge of the door pressing. You dont need the screw to pass through the hole, once its unscrewed and falls into the door the lock is disabled.
Good video super job, tanks
Great video
I have the exact same issue on my 52 plate Polo 9N rear left door (car has central locking). How do I know which lock to get as there seem to be several different variations for the door?
Unfortunately you only really have 2 options. Remove the lock you have and match it but leave you car open until the replacement gets to you or order as many variations as you can afford and check the supplier has a return policy.
At least one door is locked -- An owner of similar Polo.
Thanks a lot!
Is there any difference in changing the backdoor lock or the front door lock, or is it the same job, different door ?
Thank you so much for these videos !
Should be pretty similar. You will have a lock barrel to deal with but that should come out the same way the cover plate came off with this one.
@@AstonishingGlasgow super ! Thanks buddy 😁
Hi, I finally got this done after getting the right side. The problem I have is when I close the door with too much force it bounces open. If I close softly or push closed it's done and it locks unlocks and opens fine. I Stripped the door a second time to see if something was out of alignment but all looked fine. Adjusted the strike bar but didn't help. Is the most likely cause a faulty module or could I have aligned something incorrectly?
I have exactly the same issue on my 1970 VW Type3 but thats more to do with the air pressure in the car when closing the door with force. Try closing the door quickly with some force but with a window open and see if that changes anything. It might be the module is faulty, it might be that it takes a while to bed in or it might just be something you need to live with. Depends how much it annoys you versus the sending it back for another module to do the job again?
@@AstonishingGlasgow hi thanks for the reply, will try the window to see. It's definitely improved slightly since I did it, so maybe just bedding in. I can live with it for sure one it gets through the nct (Irish equivalent of mot)!! Thanks a million for the reply and again for the video. Would have been an impossible job without it!
Im glad it helped. Live with it a few days and I bet it will improve, either by bedding in or you will get the knack for closing it with just the right amount of slam. All the best with the NCT.
Thanx exactly same problem with my car lock. What's the name of this parts and how much does it cost thanx?
Its called either a Door lock module or Door lock actuator and this one cost me less than £20.
mate this video is great!!!! mine locks/unlocks sometimes but majority of the time stays manually pushed into locked position, can I fix it the same way?
Sorry Sophie, I thought I had already replied to this. Yes, this will be the way to fix the problem but learn from my mistake and fix it now while it opens sometimes. Its a far easier job when you dont need to get the door card off with the door locked shut.
Great job
Thanks Doc.
You helped me alot🎉
Thanks
Hello! Are those front mudflaps stock? My 9n (post-facelift) does not have it, of course the mud was accumulating behind the fender for 10 years, so it started to rust there. It is quite annoying, I'll have to repair the paint, remove rust, etc. On your car I do not see rust there, although on most of the polos, golfs I see the sill rusting due to this.
The mudflaps were fitted when I bought the car but they were a good fit so I assume they are a dealer option fit. There was a patch of rust on this cars sill and it did gather a small amount of dirt behind the mudflaps where they meet the wing/sill but at least they stopped the stone chips.
Thank you guys!! :)