I’ve done that a thousand times by mistake and thought to myself” if I tried to turn a diameter that small I couldn’t do it”😁. Awesome video man. All of you guys really do a great service to the trade by making these videos. I wish I had these videos a long time ago. The school of hard knocks may have been a little smoother😁. Keep up the good work man.
Joe this is one of those if i hadn't seen it with my own eyes i would not have believed it 1/2 thou over 2" on stainless thats unreal thanks so much for your super professional videos. Ive been machining for 40 years just goes to show you never stop learning from a true craftsman.
You remind me of my journeyman when i was an apprentice . He showed me what was possible with a lathe and you are doing the same for thousands of people on youtube . Thank you joe for sharing your knowledge .
My Father used to say: "The impossible we do today, miracles take a little longer." I would never have thought this was possible & I would never have thought to do it all at once, too used to "sneaking" up on things with small increments. Eyes, tightly focused, open mouthed & jaw dropped was how I viewed, such extraordinary skill, hardly daring to breathe fearing to mess it up. Daft really as it's a video, but it just so strongly captivated my mind as if I was there. Thank you for this extraordinary demonstration.
I just bought my 1st lathe, an old S.B. 13". I never used a lathe, or even saw one being used outside of YT videos. The first thing I needed to make was a piece for a tool I designed. The piece is made of brass, 3 in. L, .223 dia. stepping down 3 times to a dia. of .090. My first attempt, coming at it from the side, was a dismal failure. Then, I remembered watching this video. After figuring out which tool to use, I came at it from the front, established the diameter, and went for it. I used the micrometer knob on the crossfeed to move the tool back at each step. The part turned out exactly how I wanted it on the first try! Using this technique I could have probably made it .0090 if I really wanted to. I could have never done it without you. Thanks for making these videos and I look forward to watching many more in the future. You definitely earned my subscription.
Joe, gotta thank you for this video. I had to make some hinge pins for some antique hinges. Of course they were a odd size. In order for the doors to operate correctly the pins had to be tight. I remembered this video and tried the technique. Worked like a champ even on my old clapped out 10" atlas. Very impressive.
Wow Joe is the real master of ceremony in metalworking this guy allways has the best resolution to each problem and really knows what he does ... respect and greetings from Austria / Europe
It would have never occurred to me that this was possible. Now that I see it, it makes perfect sense. That would be fun way to spend some personal time with the lathe. I swear you have the hands of an eye surgeon. Makes it look easy. WELL DONE.
Another great teaching video Joe, I kept waiting for the piece to climb but it didn't! I didn't discover you until I started watching your miniature machine videos, so now I'm making up for lost time and enjoying your older posts.
Joe I know this video was published several years ago but it is still saving the day even today! I have been struggling to turn some 304 stainless parts that are about 2 " long and just under 5 mm diameter and having a hard time getting them to come out nicely. I know 304 is tough but you just made it look way too easy. I'm going to try your method tomorrow! Thanks a ton!
Reminds me of that old cartoon. Giant log gets fed into toothpick factory. Lathe spins the giant log until just one toothpick is left. Process repeats. Great video and nice work!
Wowzers again, Joe π ! I have put off a customer that needed some emergency firing pins for rock blasting equipment that required a 200mm long solid cylinder with a 2.1mm o.d. with a 4mm "hat" at one end with an o.d. of 7.3mm. I'll try a delrin receiver tube to support the "flying" end. Stainless would be a good option because his blasting equipment is used outdoors. So, I'm off to the shop to see if I can produce the parts with your impressive technique accompanied by a wish I had some of your obviously amazing skill set: let's see if I can learn this skill. I want you to know that I learn a lot from your videos and often watch them several times. Wishing I could give 100 thumbs up, and best regards, jim.
Great tip! I have an old Logan 820. It is pretty loose. Helps me to make sure the cross slide and compound are locked down before I make the cut. I also use the 60-degree compound trick for better resolution. Don't quit Joe! Keep them coming.
I used this technique a couple weeks ago making a tool for work. The part was a 5.125" plunger pin that passed though two reamed bushings, and 8x .141" pins. The trick is to use a tool that puts as little pressure on the diameter as possible - you want all the tool pressure to be on the face of the stock. Getting the part on-size is easy compared to keeping it straight and concentric over a long distance. 303 Stainless threaded 4-40 at the end, turned .180" for 1.260" to a shoulder, .235" for another .780" to a shoulder, then .374" for 2.95". The .180" and .374" had to be polished. I started by turning 7/16" stock to .374, then worked it like shown. If you start with machined/ground stock, the stock will stay very true in the collet (I have a set of MSC Import collets that are surprisingly true). The tip threaded into a bar 2.900" wide that had to be square to the plunger. I found I had to single point the thread to near size, then follow with a die, other wise the die would bend the threaded portion enough to ruin the part. The bar passed along 8 pins .141" dia 1.25" long with a crown .236"dia. I ended up making the part 2 times. I dropped the first one and bent it. Both times it came out perfect. The tool itself was to remove the caps from a couple thousand tubes of DNA we inherited at work. Still getting around to publishing a build thread, it was a very interesting project :)
Joe you got me thinking again, I have an old 1960 South Bend 13" Lathe I recently repaired and is running pretty good. I have a pile of carbide inserts of different shapes, some solid, some with a hole in the center, some with a chip breaker along the edges. Only 2 tool holders that work with the inserts. One insert is a triangle a little of 9/16" on each side with a chip breaker and radiused nose. I am not a machinist but a hobbyist and your videos have taught me many new ways of machining. After watching you remove the amount of metal in one stroke I thought I would give it a try. My lathe is 2hp and a 3 step pully using a 2.125" wide belt. I usually don't feed more than .125" but today it all changed. I was able to feed .800" cutting off of a 1.5" round bar. I believe it will do more but stopped at that point to look at the nice finish. I started with the top RPMs which is close to 1,000 RPMs, a little over what it should be due to a change in one of the motor pulleys. I only have 3 speeds to work with and found the middle speed worked best. It's somewhere around 430 RPMs to 450 RPMs. I have some solid carbide inserts that are square, round with a straight edge on the back just past center and other shapes. Thanks for the video, it helped me go a lot faster with the projects I am working on. By chance can you advise me how to match up carbide inserts with numbers to the correct working tool holder? I tried to find the Kennametal tool holder that you were using but no luck. I did find some KTGPR 164C tool holders, some were a D on the end, are they similar to what you have now? What insert will work with them. Thank you
You earned a place on my list after your first few videos Joe. I am impressed because before this video I would have bet it couldn't be done. Certainly shows the true value in buying good quality from the basic machine to the tool tip. Now show us how to cut a multi start square thread on that shaft :-)
Thanks joe. Just turned a firing pin for a Browning Challenger II using this technique. Tip of the pin was .094” and rear end of it had a .625” long .171” OD. Also had to mill a .068” deep .170” wide groove in the rear end of it for roll pin clearance. Couldn’t have done it without watching this. Thank you!
hey Joe! Only found this video now.... Back in the day (when the grass was still green, the sky still blue and sex was still a dirty word) I was asked to come up with a method to turn electrodes for spark erosion machines (this was in the early days of EMD technology ) We used a contraption that could have syringe needles mounted on the tailstock in which the part could spin, without flopping around. These electrodes were between 1 mm and 0.8 mm. We used needles that were used for taking blood samples and which were used for veterinary proposes. I will gladly admit a lot of material was wasted lol. Having been faced with this myself, I know this demonstration is Jedi-level machine work! This brings back some memories ! Thanks Paddy
I can vouch that it works. I was once handed a print and stock almost exactly like this - except it was graphite for an EDM electrode. I was stumped until I asked an old timer and he solved it with three words: "Easy. One pass". Took me ten minutes, I charged an hour and customer thought it was a bargain. Thanks Joe!
That is where having a substantial machine with top tooling really makes the difference. My pitiful little lathe would just cry at the thought of hogging off 0.235" of Stainless (or pretty much any other metal) in one pass. Thank you Joe. I've been watching your videos from shortly after you first appeared here on RUclips. I learn something every video. Dallas, Texas sends our regards!
If you use simple HSS toolbit, sharpened "scary sharp" with sufficient side rake on the top and a mirror-finish small radius stoned around the cutting corner, with a dead slow hand feed, you might get a surprise as to how deep a cut you can take. I have a couple of small lathes (old Myfords, ML7 & Super 7) which can both do this just fine.
Outstanding. I reshaped a worn-out CCMT insert in a left hand tool holder to approximate your tool and could not believe the results on my lightweight lathe. This is how I'll be machining the calve stems on my model engines.
I watched this video 3 days ago and i thought "good to know, but when will i probably need it?". I used this method three times the past two days and i was so glad about that! Thanks Joe "!
Great way for someone to come up with a small piece when only a small piece / amount is needed. I would have never thought of turning it. Absolutely cool. Thanks for sharing. I use M2 and A2 small diameter, down to .038". I can not find anything smaller than 1/16". Tried every option. And because I use a lot, I have to make my own. No, turning it in my case would be cost prohibitive due to amount needed. I draw it to size. Well, yah, if you already have drawing equipment and plenty of dies, turning it as shown is much faster and easier if you only need one, or a few pieces. Need a lot, either draw it or centerless grind it.
Joe that was absolutely awesome!! I would never have believed that was possible had I not watched it myself. One pass?? In stainless? Incredible! Thank you for showing what IS possible with the right tool and the correct technique.
Thanks Joe. amazing method. I need a .0380" 17-4 part about 1/2" long. I can put a 1/4" head on it too . design just changed. People think I'm really sharp. I'm smart enough to watch your videos..
Seems like an expensive way to make sewing needles. lol Thanks for great video Joe. The machinst world (and hobbyist like myself) are better off because of knowledge like this being shared.
I'm a complete newby hobbiest and am very impressed with the way you present material. I alwayus learn something, thanks for taking the time to share. Alex
Finally something interesting. Of course you need a good lathe for that too. I only was able to make twice of this diameter with having the end supported in a rotating chuck live center. Great video, great help, really enjoyable. Thanks Joe. Old Bob
I stumbled across and then developed this method using a crappy little old Myford ML7 in my youth and the result was as good as Joe achieves. It's all in sharp tooling with good angles, adjust the headstock bearings (particularly for thrust) and sensitive hand feed.
That was impressive. Even though I trained as a turner in the 1970's, no one ever showed anything about real small diameters. I'm going to try it out for a 1.5 degree taper I need about 40mm long with 1mm 'small end.'
Wow impressed, I'm going practice this method by making my own pins for checking threads, they would be ok for a retired hobby machinist like me, thanks again, Coventry England.
Sweet! I would never think of taking that much of a bite out of stainless but obviously I don't know what I'm doing. Also I'm very impressed as to how clean everything is kept, don't know how you do it! I learn a lot from you Tom, Thanks.
I can‘t believe my eyes. Fantastic Job! Now I‘m looking forward to see you cutting a thread on this thing. ;) Thanks for sharing all your professional skills.
Hi Joe, superb demonstration in this video and the last one too. As a new hobby machinist your tips and tricks are so useful. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Always look forward to your videos. Would you consider showing making HSS tool cutters that you would use for turning etc. Many thanks
Lol, your new name is Joe Swiss Pie!!! I’ve turned .010 “ diameter of 3/8 bar but only on a Swiss Screw Machine. I’ve done this on a Hardinge Tool Room Lathe in a 5C, but not that diameter or even that small. Lol and I had the advantage of center-less ground stock 3/8 diameter .0002” end to end with accu-collet. I’m impressed.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
i have a Clausing 12" lathe and can't remove nearly as much in one pass as you, how small do you thing the original diameter can be and still accomplish this amazing outcome. . .I love watching you Joe. As an amateur machinist for 10 years I am constantly amazed at what just has not occurred to me . . .and you remind me of that with every video you make. . .great channel! John
Dude you are a wizard! I've seen similar cuts on a screw machine, never really thought to do it on an engine lathe. I think this would be a great approach even for less extreme examples.
This is not dissimilar to using a box-tool where the tool is mounted into a follower and the cut is made in one shot. Usually with flood oil coolant (not suds, but pure cutting-oil. Great alternative technique! Many thanks.
good point about stuff in your chip tray. dellron chips are bad to forget in your chip tray then do some steel work. them are some real nasty fumes. keep up the good work.
Wonderful explanations. Thanks for sharing! Can you discuss how to drill straight holes over long lengths - say 0.2" over 4" or something similar? If you have a trick to solve the swaying towards the ends that would be wonderful! Thanks!!!
Hi Cap'n Another awesome and amazing demo of how and what is possible on our Lathes. We never stop learning with U. Can't wait to try this out on some of those less heavy cuts for accurate and nice finishing with the inserts we have. Absolutely superb and brilliant show and tell. As always, thanks a zillion ATB aRM
I learn from your videos. Thank you for posting them. I was looking in the show notes, pinned above, for a link to part 1 that you mentioned at the beginning of this video.
Impressive. I had occasion recently to make some extra long #6 bolts and ran into all of the mentioned problems while getting the basic shape out of a rod before I finished. Nice to see an alternative method.
One variable I was thinking about while watching this would be the outside surface of the stock material. Any kind of bump, bruise, or other problem in the original stock would throw off the concentricity when you advance the stock in your collet. If someone was really serious about this they could prepare the outside surface of the stock prior to final cut. Another variable you mentioned was the whip which, as you said, can be controlled with a tailstock jig. Again, excellent video.
Fantastic tip! Thank you for sharing and thank Google for finding this video. I needed to turn 5/16" down to 3/16" to make some 3" long screws. I tried taking many small cuts but the rod was slightly flexing away from the chuck creating taper. First solution I found was a box turning tool, your video was second. It was very easy to take it down in one pass cutting 1" at a time.
I think you are doing your bit to push back against dumbing down of the populace and to promote manual skills pushing back against those who want only electronic machinery .
@@petermoses5095 I need to remove most of the middle threads of a plain steel 8-32" slotted pan head screw that is 3 1/2" long and make the diameter suitable to thread it into a 5-40 die, while retaining the unmolested slotted pan head. I must end up with a 2" long 5-40" machine screw with, say, the outer 4/5th threaded. I have a good drill press and 3 nuts. The nuts I can sacrifice. To protect the chuck jaws I plan to slip the 8-32 screw into a short length of Aluminum tubing and maybe use one nut as a jam nut and the other two run down to the head, which (head) will be pointed down. Then I will put a file on the threads. What happens to the finish product? Front lock plate screw of a flintlock to the side plate on the other side the maple stock. The lock plate will have the internal threads (5-40") to accept this screw. The ram rod must clear the screw. A larger diameter screw would block it. But I want the head to match that of the rear screw, which is 8-32"
Thanks for the very informative video. You never cease to amaze me with your machining knowledge and willingness to share it. I work in a cnc machine shop and if the guys there knew half of what you know, they would be awesome. Thank you. Dan
Excellent! I'm not sure my crappy collets would repeat so well but I am totally doing this. I just finished turning down Invar to about .06 but not near as long.
Joe, great tip again. Having started my career working with electro mechanical aircraft instrumentation, I would have approached this with horology and hand graver techniques. I like this much better. BTW, hand graver tools work just as amazingly well taking a shearing cut from the top but more tedious. Hand gravers on conventional lathe 5C collets are the only way I know to produce sweeping curves like handwheel handles and similar especially one offs.
Very useful. I have to make some long shanked #4 steel screws and was having the problems which you describe, whipping, sudden snapping off, etc. I look forward to trying your method.
Joe- I am not a full time machinist, but I do a lot of machine work both at my job and in my own shop at home. One of the things I find myself doing a lot of is milling slots, say, for adjustment bolts and such. I would really like to see your method, as I'm sure my technique could use some improvement. Thanks for the great videos, they're very informative. -Mark
I think I've seen just about every machinist video on RUclips, most are of the beer & pretzel caliber, Joe, you offer champagne and filet Mignon by comparison, thanks for all you do.
Joe, excellent as usual. Besides the obvious machining skill you regularly demonstrate what is more impressive is your mindset and awareness of physics and the forces at work with machine tools. The inexperienced might want to "sneak up" on the dimension but would experience failure. Starting with a larger diameter and boldly going where no tool has gone before acknowledges that the small diameter that is the goal is only limited by the rigidity of the small diameter and /or the ability to support that diameter as its length grows. Your "mind set" is the reason you share so skillfully . And how many patents do you have? You da man!
Simply astonishing! Again if I had not seen it i would not have believed it possible. I could not help thinking there must have been some sadists in some of your drawing offices. ;-) Thank you again Joe. Cannot wait to try it.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve done that a thousand times by mistake and thought to myself” if I tried to turn a diameter that small I couldn’t do it”😁. Awesome video man. All of you guys really do a great service to the trade by making these videos. I wish I had these videos a long time ago. The school of hard knocks may have been a little smoother😁. Keep up the good work man.
Joe this is one of those if i hadn't seen it with my own eyes i would not have believed it 1/2 thou over 2" on stainless thats unreal thanks so much for your super professional videos. Ive been machining for 40 years just goes to show you never stop learning from a true craftsman.
You remind me of my journeyman when i was an apprentice . He showed me what was possible with a lathe and you are doing the same for thousands of people on youtube . Thank you joe for sharing your knowledge .
Thanks for the comment. Pass it on if you have the chance.
My Father used to say: "The impossible we do today, miracles take a little longer." I would never have thought this was possible & I would never have thought to do it all at once, too used to "sneaking" up on things with small increments. Eyes, tightly focused, open mouthed & jaw dropped was how I viewed, such extraordinary skill, hardly daring to breathe fearing to mess it up. Daft really as it's a video, but it just so strongly captivated my mind as if I was there. Thank you for this extraordinary demonstration.
I just bought my 1st lathe, an old S.B. 13". I never used a lathe, or even saw one being used outside of YT videos.
The first thing I needed to make was a piece for a tool I designed. The piece is made of brass, 3 in. L, .223 dia. stepping down 3 times to a dia. of .090. My first attempt, coming at it from the side, was a dismal failure. Then, I remembered watching this video. After figuring out which tool to use, I came at it from the front, established the diameter, and went for it. I used the micrometer knob on the crossfeed to move the tool back at each step. The part turned out exactly how I wanted it on the first try! Using this technique I could have probably made it .0090 if I really wanted to.
I could have never done it without you. Thanks for making these videos and I look forward to watching many more in the future. You definitely earned my subscription.
Outstanding. Positive feedback like this makes it all worth while on my end. Happy new year to you as well. Thanks for the sub.
Joe, gotta thank you for this video. I had to make some hinge pins for some antique hinges. Of course they were a odd size. In order for the doors to operate correctly the pins had to be tight. I remembered this video and tried the technique. Worked like a champ even on my old clapped out 10" atlas. Very impressive.
20 minutes ago, I would have argued this was impossible.
Joe - you have made me smarter and more humble. This is awesome.
Impossible just means it hasn't been done yet. Thanks for watching.
Wow Joe is the real master of ceremony in metalworking this guy allways has the best resolution to each problem and really knows what he does ... respect and greetings from Austria / Europe
It would have never occurred to me that this was possible. Now that I see it, it makes perfect sense. That would be fun way to spend some personal time with the lathe. I swear you have the hands of an eye surgeon. Makes it look easy. WELL DONE.
Thank you.
Another great teaching video Joe, I kept waiting for the piece to climb but it didn't! I didn't discover you until I started watching your miniature machine videos, so now I'm making up for lost time and enjoying your older posts.
I often wonder why you don't have 20 million subscribers. You have an incredible channel and a very effective teaching style. Well done as usual.
Thanks. I'm still trying to figure that out.
Maybe because too many people don't have the attention span for 20-minute videos.
This is where total set up rigidity is detrimental. Good work Joe!!!
Joe I know this video was published several years ago but it is still saving the day even today! I have been struggling to turn some 304 stainless parts that are about 2 " long and just under 5 mm diameter and having a hard time getting them to come out nicely. I know 304 is tough but you just made it look way too easy. I'm going to try your method tomorrow! Thanks a ton!
Yet again Joe, Thanks for this video that is both entertaining and of highly educational value! Cheers from the netherlands, europe.
wow! Im a swiss / 7 axis programmer. Machining that small od on a manual
lathe is nuts!!
Reminds me of that old cartoon. Giant log gets fed into toothpick factory. Lathe spins the giant log until just one toothpick is left. Process repeats. Great video and nice work!
I always wondered if that was how they make toothpicks?
Wowzers again, Joe π ! I have put off a customer that needed some emergency firing pins for rock blasting equipment that required a 200mm long solid cylinder with a 2.1mm o.d. with a 4mm "hat" at one end with an o.d. of 7.3mm. I'll try a delrin receiver tube to support the "flying" end. Stainless would be a good option because his blasting equipment is used outdoors. So, I'm off to the shop to see if I can produce the parts with your impressive technique accompanied by a wish I had some of your obviously amazing skill set: let's see if I can learn this skill. I want you to know that I learn a lot from your videos and often watch them several times. Wishing I could give 100 thumbs up, and best regards, jim.
Great tip! I have an old Logan 820. It is pretty loose. Helps me to make sure the cross slide and compound are locked down before I make the cut. I also use the 60-degree compound trick for better resolution. Don't quit Joe! Keep them coming.
I try. Sometimes work gets in the way. I may launch a few this weekend.
I used this technique a couple weeks ago making a tool for work.
The part was a 5.125" plunger pin that passed though two reamed bushings, and 8x .141" pins.
The trick is to use a tool that puts as little pressure on the diameter as possible - you want all the tool pressure to be on the face of the stock. Getting the part on-size is easy compared to keeping it straight and concentric over a long distance.
303 Stainless threaded 4-40 at the end, turned .180" for 1.260" to a shoulder, .235" for another .780" to a shoulder, then .374" for 2.95". The .180" and .374" had to be polished.
I started by turning 7/16" stock to .374, then worked it like shown. If you start with machined/ground stock, the stock will stay very true in the collet (I have a set of MSC Import collets that are surprisingly true).
The tip threaded into a bar 2.900" wide that had to be square to the plunger. I found I had to single point the thread to near size, then follow with a die, other wise the die would bend the threaded portion enough to ruin the part.
The bar passed along 8 pins .141" dia 1.25" long with a crown .236"dia.
I ended up making the part 2 times. I dropped the first one and bent it. Both times it came out perfect. The tool itself was to remove the caps from a couple thousand tubes of DNA we inherited at work. Still getting around to publishing a build thread, it was a very interesting project :)
I thought the last video was pretty awesome, but this... this is just straight sorcery
WHEW! That was intense! I believe that's the longest I've ever held my breath! :)
Nicely done!
Cutting on such a broad front with no chatter i didn't know it could be done,well done Joe.
..been machining for many years and would have never thought of this... can't wait to go to the shop tomorrow... this was brilliant !
Joe you got me thinking again, I have an old 1960 South Bend 13" Lathe I recently repaired and is running pretty good. I have a pile of carbide inserts of different shapes, some solid, some with a hole in the center, some with a chip breaker along the edges. Only 2 tool holders that work with the inserts. One insert is a triangle a little of 9/16" on each side with a chip breaker and radiused nose. I am not a machinist but a hobbyist and your videos have taught me many new ways of machining. After watching you remove the amount of metal in one stroke I thought I would give it a try. My lathe is 2hp and a 3 step pully using a 2.125" wide belt. I usually don't feed more than .125" but today it all changed. I was able to feed .800" cutting off of a 1.5" round bar. I believe it will do more but stopped at that point to look at the nice finish. I started with the top RPMs which is close to 1,000 RPMs, a little over what it should be due to a change in one of the motor pulleys. I only have 3 speeds to work with and found the middle speed worked best. It's somewhere around 430 RPMs to 450 RPMs. I have some solid carbide inserts that are square, round with a straight edge on the back just past center and other shapes. Thanks for the video, it helped me go a lot faster with the projects I am working on. By chance can you advise me how to match up carbide inserts with numbers to the correct working tool holder? I tried to find the Kennametal tool holder that you were using but no luck. I did find some KTGPR 164C tool holders, some were a D on the end, are they similar to what you have now? What insert will work with them. Thank you
Outstanding! I'm a subscriber to all if the major machining RUclips channels, but yours is tough to beat for for informative content. Thanks again!
I hope I can earn a place on your list. Thanks for watching.
You earned a place on my list after your first few videos Joe. I am impressed because before this video I would have bet it couldn't be done. Certainly shows the true value in buying good quality from the basic machine to the tool tip. Now show us how to cut a multi start square thread on that shaft :-)
Thanks joe. Just turned a firing pin for a Browning Challenger II using this technique. Tip of the pin was .094” and rear end of it had a .625” long .171” OD. Also had to mill a .068” deep .170” wide groove in the rear end of it for roll pin clearance. Couldn’t have done it without watching this. Thank you!
I was looking for wood turning videos but I ended up watching the whole thing, what a fascinating demo!
hey Joe!
Only found this video now....
Back in the day (when the grass was still green, the sky still blue and sex was still a dirty word) I was asked to come up with a method to turn electrodes for spark erosion machines (this was in the early days of EMD technology )
We used a contraption that could have syringe needles mounted on the tailstock in which the part could spin, without flopping around. These electrodes were between 1 mm and 0.8 mm. We used needles that were used for taking blood samples and which were used for veterinary proposes.
I will gladly admit a lot of material was wasted lol.
Having been faced with this myself, I know this demonstration is Jedi-level machine work!
This brings back some memories !
Thanks
Paddy
I used the force on this one. Don't tell anyone.
I used this technique yesterday to turn 5/8” delrin rod down to a diameter to create a 3-48 thread on a musical instrument part. Thanks Joe.
Insane best turning video I have ever seen!
Thin walls AND stainless steel toothpicks. Wow. Two great tips. Hobbyists like myself need to know these tricks👍👌🇦🇺
Glad it was helpful!
I can vouch that it works. I was once handed a print and stock almost exactly like this - except it was graphite for an EDM electrode. I was stumped until I asked an old timer and he solved it with three words: "Easy. One pass". Took me ten minutes, I charged an hour and customer thought it was a bargain. Thanks Joe!
Glad to hear it! Just one more reason to never let the customer watch you work.
That is where having a substantial machine with top tooling really makes the difference. My pitiful little lathe would just cry at the thought of hogging off 0.235" of Stainless (or pretty much any other metal) in one pass.
Thank you Joe. I've been watching your videos from shortly after you first appeared here on RUclips. I learn something every video. Dallas, Texas sends our regards!
If you use simple HSS toolbit, sharpened "scary sharp" with sufficient side rake on the top and a mirror-finish small radius stoned around the cutting corner, with a dead slow hand feed, you might get a surprise as to how deep a cut you can take.
I have a couple of small lathes (old Myfords, ML7 & Super 7) which can both do this just fine.
Beautiful to watch you work Joe, many thanks for sharing.
Outstanding. I reshaped a worn-out CCMT insert in a left hand tool holder to approximate your tool and could not believe the results on my lightweight lathe. This is how I'll be machining the calve stems on my model engines.
Thank you for the tip on ventilation and realizing where the hot chips falling. Very easy to over look what you just revealed in this video.
I watched this video 3 days ago and i thought "good to know, but when will i probably need it?". I used this method three times the past two days and i was so glad about that! Thanks Joe "!
I hope it made things easier.
Great way for someone to come up with a small piece when only a small piece / amount is needed. I would have never thought of turning it. Absolutely cool. Thanks for sharing.
I use M2 and A2 small diameter, down to .038". I can not find anything smaller than 1/16". Tried every option. And because I use a lot, I have to make my own. No, turning it in my case would be cost prohibitive due to amount needed. I draw it to size. Well, yah, if you already have drawing equipment and plenty of dies, turning it as shown is much faster and easier if you only need one, or a few pieces. Need a lot, either draw it or centerless grind it.
Joe that was absolutely awesome!! I would never have believed that was possible had I not watched it myself. One pass?? In stainless? Incredible! Thank you for showing what IS possible with the right tool and the correct technique.
Thanks Joe. amazing method. I need a .0380" 17-4 part about 1/2" long. I can put a 1/4" head on it too . design just changed.
People think I'm really sharp. I'm smart enough to watch your videos..
Smart ppl watch smart ppl
Ha! And I was having trouble with turning down to 5mm and 60mm long! Definitely going to try this technique. Joe, mate, you're a legend!
Good luck.
Outstanding show of skill and knowledge. Thank you Joe.
Seems like an expensive way to make sewing needles. lol Thanks for great video Joe. The machinst world (and hobbyist like myself) are better off because of knowledge like this being shared.
I would not have believed it if I had not seen it. Thank you sir.
horkinyorkin I came down to the comments to say the same thing. My jaw hit the chip bin when I saw this!
Thanks for watching guys. Much appreciated.
I'm a complete newby hobbiest and am very impressed with the way you present material. I alwayus learn something, thanks for taking the time to share.
Alex
Finally we learn the proper technique for making tig rod. Thanks, Joe. D'oh!
Now that's funny, but oh so true. He is beyond belief.
Is there anything you can't do? Lol. Great job Joe. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. It is greatly appreciated.
Truly impressive! 👍🏻
thank you.
Finally something interesting. Of course you need a good lathe for that too. I only was able to make twice of this diameter with having the end supported in a rotating chuck live center. Great video, great help, really enjoyable. Thanks Joe.
Old Bob
I stumbled across and then developed this method using a crappy little old Myford ML7 in my youth and the result was as good as Joe achieves. It's all in sharp tooling with good angles, adjust the headstock bearings (particularly for thrust) and sensitive hand feed.
You always make great videos, Joe. Keep it up! I learn so much from them and you explain things clearly.
That was impressive. Even though I trained as a turner in the 1970's, no one ever showed anything about real small diameters. I'm going to try it out for a 1.5 degree taper I need about 40mm long with 1mm 'small end.'
This is engineering magic if I didn’t see it I would not believe. The doctor is in the house. You the man! thanks for posting
Thanks for watching.
Fantastic demonstration. I've got to try this. If I hadn't seen it, I would have never believed it. Thanks.
Wow impressed, I'm going practice this method by making my own pins for checking threads, they would be ok for a retired hobby machinist like me, thanks again, Coventry England.
Would not have believed it unless I saw it. You are incredible.
Sweet! I would never think of taking that much of a bite out of stainless but obviously I don't know what I'm doing. Also I'm very impressed as to how clean everything is kept, don't know how you do it! I learn a lot from you Tom, Thanks.
Your just showing off now 🤣.
I really do appreciate your content . Thank you once again 🙏🏻
No problem 👍
I can‘t believe my eyes. Fantastic Job! Now I‘m looking forward to see you cutting a thread on this thing. ;) Thanks for sharing all your professional skills.
i am seriously a rank beginner but like to learn! you have such a wealth of knowledge and have a willingness to share. For this i am truly grateful
Just made my girlfriend a titanium nose stud using the technique. Thanks a ton! My little old lathe chattered more than I liked, but it worked
Nice.
Hi Joe, superb demonstration in this video and the last one too. As a new hobby machinist your tips and tricks are so useful. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Always look forward to your videos. Would you consider showing making HSS tool cutters that you would use for turning etc. Many thanks
WOW I'm totally amazed. I thought you were finished at 1 inch! Thanks
I really enjoy your videos, I’m a retired machinist but still learning. Thanks
Lol, your new name is Joe Swiss Pie!!! I’ve turned .010 “ diameter of 3/8 bar but only on a Swiss Screw Machine.
I’ve done this on a Hardinge Tool Room Lathe in a 5C, but not that diameter or even that small. Lol and I had the advantage of center-less ground stock 3/8 diameter .0002” end to end with accu-collet.
I’m impressed.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
i have a Clausing 12" lathe and can't remove nearly as much in one pass as you, how small do you thing the original diameter can be and still accomplish this amazing outcome. . .I love watching you Joe. As an amateur machinist for 10 years I am constantly amazed at what just has not occurred to me . . .and you remind me of that with every video you make. . .great channel! John
Thanks John. You can use smaller diameter material, just don't extend it too far. Its all relative.
That's impressive, you learn something new every day... it makes total sense to turn small diameters like this though :)
Damn, you not only make it LOOK easy you show us that it IS easy! I love your videos Joe. Subbed and liked!
Dude you are a wizard! I've seen similar cuts on a screw machine, never really thought to do it on an engine lathe. I think this would be a great approach even for less extreme examples.
Congrats on the 100K. Excellent information, as always.
Thank you!
Great job Joe! You learn something new each day, I appreciate you imparting that new thing to me today!
You transformed $$/ft. rod into 0/foot wire + $$$$$$$$/foot education. Thanks!
Yep...Just so very cool and skilled work. Love it and keep it coming. Thanks again Joe.
This is not dissimilar to using a box-tool where the tool is mounted into a follower and the cut is made in one shot. Usually with flood oil coolant (not suds, but pure cutting-oil. Great alternative technique! Many thanks.
good point about stuff in your chip tray. dellron chips are bad to forget in your chip tray then do some steel work. them are some real nasty fumes. keep up the good work.
As a byproduct, you also made a .500 transfer punch. :-)
Wonderful explanations. Thanks for sharing!
Can you discuss how to drill straight holes over long lengths - say 0.2" over 4" or something similar?
If you have a trick to solve the swaying towards the ends that would be wonderful! Thanks!!!
another great video from proff joe. i especially liked the parting off technique.
Hi Cap'n
Another awesome and amazing demo of how and what is possible on our Lathes. We never stop learning with U. Can't wait to try this out on some of those less heavy cuts for accurate and nice finishing with the inserts we have.
Absolutely superb and brilliant show and tell. As always, thanks a zillion
ATB
aRM
Thanks Guys. Hows that knife production going?
Awe shucks. Been on hold for a while. Will "get 'er done" soon, IA
ATB
aRM
Holy Moly a real master at work 👍🤗
Another awesome video on special techniques. Thanks
Nice Joe, I'm going to try in right now. Thanks. I love your tricks and tips.
I learn from your videos. Thank you for posting them. I was looking in the show notes, pinned above, for a link to part 1 that you mentioned at the beginning of this video.
Impressive. I had occasion recently to make some extra long #6 bolts and ran into all of the mentioned problems while getting the basic shape out of a rod before I finished. Nice to see an alternative method.
One variable I was thinking about while watching this would be the outside surface of the stock material. Any kind of bump, bruise, or other problem in the original stock would throw off the concentricity when you advance the stock in your collet. If someone was really serious about this they could prepare the outside surface of the stock prior to final cut. Another variable you mentioned was the whip which, as you said, can be controlled with a tailstock jig. Again, excellent video.
I did mention both. They are good points. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic tip! Thank you for sharing and thank Google for finding this video. I needed to turn 5/16" down to 3/16" to make some 3" long screws. I tried taking many small cuts but the rod was slightly flexing away from the chuck creating taper. First solution I found was a box turning tool, your video was second. It was very easy to take it down in one pass cutting 1" at a time.
I think you are doing your bit to push back against dumbing down of the populace and to promote manual skills pushing back against those who want only electronic machinery .
@@petermoses5095 I need to remove most of the middle threads of a plain steel 8-32" slotted pan head screw that is 3 1/2" long and make the diameter suitable to thread it into a 5-40 die, while retaining the unmolested slotted pan head. I must end up with a 2" long 5-40" machine screw with, say, the outer 4/5th threaded. I have a good drill press and 3 nuts. The nuts I can sacrifice. To protect the chuck jaws I plan to slip the 8-32 screw into a short length of Aluminum tubing and maybe use one nut as a jam nut and the other two run down to the head, which (head) will be pointed down. Then I will put a file on the threads. What happens to the finish product? Front lock plate screw of a flintlock to the side plate on the other side the maple stock. The lock plate will have the internal threads (5-40") to accept this screw. The ram rod must clear the screw. A larger diameter screw would block it. But I want the head to match that of the rear screw, which is 8-32"
Thanks for the very informative video. You never cease to amaze me with your machining knowledge and willingness to share it. I work in a cnc machine shop and if the guys there knew half of what you know, they would be awesome. Thank you. Dan
i have done the thin wall but never this never had the need great tip love the vids you are a master of the cant be done
Nice technique Joe Pi, thanks for posting. I'm looking forward to trying it soon. I liked the animation at the end too!
Excellent! I'm not sure my crappy collets would repeat so well but I am totally doing this. I just finished turning down Invar to about .06 but not near as long.
Joe, great tip again. Having started my career working with electro mechanical aircraft instrumentation, I would have approached this with horology and hand graver techniques. I like this much better. BTW, hand graver tools work just as amazingly well taking a shearing cut from the top but more tedious. Hand gravers on conventional lathe 5C collets are the only way I know to produce sweeping curves like handwheel handles and similar especially one offs.
Very useful. I have to make some long shanked #4 steel screws and was having the problems which you describe, whipping, sudden snapping off, etc. I look forward to trying your method.
Impressive. I like it you get to have fun. After this I do think any doubters may have hidden their little red wagon from your setup. Great!
I have my fun in between paying the bills. Thanks for watching.
Joe- I am not a full time machinist, but I do a lot of machine work both at my job and in my own shop at home. One of the things I find myself doing a lot of is milling slots, say, for adjustment bolts and such. I would really like to see your method, as I'm sure my technique could use some improvement. Thanks for the great videos, they're very informative. -Mark
Good Idea. I may actually shoot that.
Joe Pieczynski thanks! Can't wait.
Joe thanks for taking your time to share your knowledge with us. TW canada,s west coast
wow seriously impressive technique how would you drill/bore a hole in something like this would you do the hole first as in the plastic video?
I think I've seen just about every machinist video on RUclips, most are of the beer & pretzel caliber, Joe, you offer champagne and filet Mignon by comparison, thanks for all you do.
Nothing wrong with beer and pretzels, but ya gotta have a steak once in a while. Thanks for the compliment. Much appreciated.
Joe, excellent as usual. Besides the obvious machining skill you regularly demonstrate what is more impressive is your mindset and awareness of physics and the forces at work with machine tools. The inexperienced might want to "sneak up" on the dimension but would experience failure. Starting with a larger diameter and boldly going where no tool has gone before acknowledges that the small diameter that is the goal is only limited by the rigidity of the small diameter and /or the ability to support that diameter as its length grows. Your "mind set" is the reason you share so skillfully . And how many patents do you have? You da man!
Absolutely amazing. When I grow up I want to be just like you 🙏
Ohhh my god.... i never saw something like that.... thanks joe alot... you are making me more expierenced in maching things
Simply astonishing! Again if I had not seen it i would not have believed it possible. I could not help thinking there must have been some sadists in some of your drawing offices. ;-) Thank you again Joe. Cannot wait to try it.
Take your time. It works.
Exceptional as usual Joe, thanks for sharing your knowledge sir!