I took your process a little further I leveled the motorcycle then with the caps off the carburetors I leveled the carburetors I used your stick method and used three small finishing nails with the heads cut off of them painted the end of the nails white had a small battery-operated laser put on cement blocks with wood shot across the white of the nails when I barely turn the throttle I can see the color moving on the nails I hope this process will further enhance this video THANK YOU
Great video! I like step 1 turn on some classic rock. That is the method I use. Its worth mentioning with oil injection the first thing I do is disconnect or loosen oil pump so it can't interfere then of course reset oil pump and you're done
I'm really curious whether you have tested this, with a manometer, afterwards, to confirm that a mechanical sync yields an airflow sync... which is the ultimate goal: consistent vacuum. In theory this should yield that, but in practice, if one cylinder has more vacuum than another (for some reason) then an airflow/vacuum based sync would be more accurate.
Just got done with a method similar to this after swapping jets out on my cb750. Had them on the bench and used 1/4" drill bits to hold the height of all the slides up and have just enough room to feel snug when pulling it out. I only had 2 1/4" bits so I set one bit in my #1 carb and the other three i kept playing around with the bit and the slide height adjustment. Once I felt everything was sufficient I put the carbs on and ran the bike and everything sounded good. Put the gauges up and noticed my #1 carb was off from the other three by about 2" at idle. Less than a 1/8-1/16th of a turn on the adjustment and all of them were across the board even with one another. I'd say the likely cause that it was off was due to the fact that I kept a bit in that throat the entire time and made sure it remained tight, and used my other bit with the other three carbs, swapping from one to the other making sure they were all pretty much fine tuned to each other. I never really checked #1 across the other three thinking it would be my pilot carb basically. It does take the guesswork out a fair bit of where to start out for sure. In essence you're starting off from the same point making the amount of time needed to run the bike stationary go down significantly.
@@brucebanner8684 why so hostile? he can't help your tampon went sideways. if you had read the comments you would have seen someone asking if it's used on 1 cylinder bikes.
I like this method better than backing out all the idle screws and starting from scratch with all slides fully lowered on the floor. It takes less time offering a good average and sound throttle opening at idle. Usually this method requires no further idle balancing if the pilots are set close to where they should be. Not to sound like a "nut swinger" but this guy is pretty fussy with his shit and likes to help those with less technical skills. Just because one may know how to do something does not entitle one to be a dick.
I don't mean to sound condescending however this is literally BENCH SYNCING just ON THE BIKE .....this isn't some new technique people have been doing this for YEARS
"I don't mean to be condescending, but I'm going to be condescending anyways". Who cares if it's the same as bench checking. He took the time to explain it and make a video
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I know its 5 years old but thanks.
I will tune my diversion 600 tomorrow and let you how I get on.
I took your process a little further I leveled the motorcycle then with the caps off the carburetors I leveled the carburetors I used your stick method and used three small finishing nails with the heads cut off of them painted the end of the nails white had a small battery-operated laser put on cement blocks with wood shot across the white of the nails when I barely turn the throttle I can see the color moving on the nails I hope this process will further enhance this video THANK YOU
You can really use anything or any Size drill bit as long as the synch is good you can always set your idle screw dynamically
Great video! I like step 1 turn on some classic rock. That is the method I use. Its worth mentioning with oil injection the first thing I do is disconnect or loosen oil pump so it can't interfere then of course reset oil pump and you're done
Excellent demo well explained, I will put to good use after watching this.
Thats a great video, thanks for taking the time to make it...
Awesome job!
Awesome video my friend, but should you still check and make sure the slides are opening up all the way as well?
Yo Darth! I just shared this with a group I'm part of - I think they were skeptical when I mentioned it. I won't share Aylors version hahahahahah.
Nice bike.
Where did you get those pipes? I have a Suzuki gt750 1974 and I need pipes for that. It’s a 2 stroke 3 cylinder
I'm really curious whether you have tested this, with a manometer, afterwards, to confirm that a mechanical sync yields an airflow sync... which is the ultimate goal: consistent vacuum. In theory this should yield that, but in practice, if one cylinder has more vacuum than another (for some reason) then an airflow/vacuum based sync would be more accurate.
Just got done with a method similar to this after swapping jets out on my cb750. Had them on the bench and used 1/4" drill bits to hold the height of all the slides up and have just enough room to feel snug when pulling it out. I only had 2 1/4" bits so I set one bit in my #1 carb and the other three i kept playing around with the bit and the slide height adjustment. Once I felt everything was sufficient I put the carbs on and ran the bike and everything sounded good. Put the gauges up and noticed my #1 carb was off from the other three by about 2" at idle. Less than a 1/8-1/16th of a turn on the adjustment and all of them were across the board even with one another.
I'd say the likely cause that it was off was due to the fact that I kept a bit in that throat the entire time and made sure it remained tight, and used my other bit with the other three carbs, swapping from one to the other making sure they were all pretty much fine tuned to each other. I never really checked #1 across the other three thinking it would be my pilot carb basically.
It does take the guesswork out a fair bit of where to start out for sure. In essence you're starting off from the same point making the amount of time needed to run the bike stationary go down significantly.
Making it look ez.it works well
I like your method. Thanks for sharing.
Is this working for small engine bike like on 1 cylinders or 100-125 cc?
1 cylinder don’t need to be synced bro
this is for any engine with more than one carburetor ... this keeps multiple carbs feeding fuel in unison ... not necessary with a single carb
No shit idiot
@@brucebanner8684 why so hostile? he can't help your tampon went sideways. if you had read the comments you would have seen someone asking if it's used on 1 cylinder bikes.
I like this method better than backing out all the idle screws and starting from scratch with all slides fully lowered on the floor. It takes less time offering a good average and sound throttle opening at idle. Usually this method requires no further idle balancing if the pilots are set close to where they should be. Not to sound like a "nut swinger" but this guy is pretty fussy with his shit and likes to help those with less technical skills. Just because one may know how to do something does not entitle one to be a dick.
nice bike, great video ! thanks
Nice t-shirt ! .
N
I don't mean to sound condescending however this is literally BENCH SYNCING just ON THE BIKE .....this isn't some new technique people have been doing this for YEARS
"I don't mean to be condescending, but I'm going to be condescending anyways". Who cares if it's the same as bench checking. He took the time to explain it and make a video