I did a lot of Bondo work at a job, a standard razor blade held at a 90 to it drug across works well at limiting sanding afterwards. Sometimes you don’t need to sand at all.
“You can see it right now and that’s what matters.” I am a dentist and I live by that sentiment. No one will see this but me, but that is what matters.
Not sure if someone else noted this but the reason you sometimes see windows there, and sometimes not is that those windows could be rolled down. If they were left up, the concussion from the 16in guns would blow out the glass, so the windows would be rolled down to protect them when the guns were being fired, and rolled back up to keep out the elements when they were not; though I expect on hot days, they might have rolled them down as well just for the ventilation, although that was not their intended purpose
Your knife work is pretty neat. Practiced, muscle memory, using your tools for other than intended uses. All part of what to me is modeling! Another great modeling class.
Love watching you build and paint this gargantuan model. as another commenter noted, the "how-to" details are great. One thing I would like to ask, could you please include a quick shot of the entire ship at the end of the videos, so we can see how what you're showcasing fits in to the total model. I eagerly await each new installment of watching this come together.
Your work in the Arizona was fantastic, but this one...wow,I can't wait until the finished product. You seem to be going above and beyond with each new build,but the Missouri build makes the others look pale in comparison...you do absolutely fantastic work Ben,and adding the "how to" details to the videos adds even more help to us "rank amateurs"...as always,I look forward to the next video,and the opportunity to learn new tips and tricks...cheers bud
Great work on display here and well done!I used to work on the USS New Jersey in Camden NJ and just a fun fact that the glazing on the bridge was designed to be rolled down and protected (out of sight) during anticipated use of the main armament.
I find it best to mix up a bottle of the deck blue stain. This way there will not really be much of an issue trying to match color per deck layer. Looking great and thank you for your posts!
dude... Im just getting into modeling. I do a lot of electronics building and repair, so I'm kind of used to smaller details, but man, this blows me away. Had some ideas.. Maybe for that room with the glass windows, print out an image of the interior of the room to put in the background? Just an idea.. so you see something when you look in the window
Awesome work. I’m at part #15, maybe my question is answered later. Do you prime before painting? I dont recall primer being mentionned in previous videos. Primer adds another layer that might hide some tiny details, so i guess its not necessary?
Yeah I don’t prime with enamel paints. I make sure the surface is CLEANED usually with rubbing alcohol before painting. Now if you’re using acrylics, you need to pay attention to each brand and figure out what’s best. Some of them you can get away with not using primer on. Others....not so much.
Have you been to any of the Iowa-class Battleship memorials? I've been on the Wisconsin and took a few shots of the interior battle bridge if you need references. Also, if I recall, the windows adjacent to the bridge could be retracted down and armored shutters moved up from below.
Yes, I have been to the Wisconsin a few time and the Missouri. I haven't decided on if I want to build the bridge interior or not yet. But I'll take the pics if you're willing to send them! TheMidwestModelShop@Gmail.com
Hi Ben, I’m building Tamiya’s 1/350 USS Missouri. The kit came with the Pontos blue wood deck. This deck has the plastic that you remove to use the adhesive backing. Just curious if you used the same kinda material. The question that I have is, if using this deck with the adhesive, has it ever pealed up or off on you? Thanks Brian
Ben, I am very close to pulling the trigger on this kit and the upgrade kit. I noticed an MK1 upgrade kit with a deck. Do you know the differences between this upgrade kit and the Pontos offering?
Unfortunately, no. Early on in the series I asked if anyone had the MK1 kit and to comment. But no one said anything. I have heard online that the Pontos instructions are “better”.....but that’s not saying a lot because the instructions for this kit are mostly pictures of what the finished product should look like 🤷🏻♂️. Honestly, if you’re serious about the build and have a realistic idea of what you’re getting into, the Pontos kits is awesome.
Nope. You have to remove 1/32nd and then another 1/32. If you just go to 1/16th, you'll actually have removed 3/32nd and that will be too much. 4/64th may be best in your case.
Well for the Missouri at this time, it was stained weatherdeck blue. So that’s why I went with the paint to get the affect I wanted. I couldn’t find any dark blue wood stain. And then what would I do with the left overs? I just try to keep things simple.
Well that’s a good question. We have it on a buffet coming into our house at the moment. But with the current Titanic build underway, I’m probably going to put some shelves up on one of the shop walls for them.
Will ya just make it look human for a change!! Lol Let's see if ya can make a 2 hr movie!! Lmao!! Every builder has stretches where everything goes just like you show , SMOOOOOTH AND EASY!! Then there the WTH times where easy seems impossible!! She looks fantastic!!
I did a lot of Bondo work at a job, a standard razor blade held at a 90 to it drug across works well at limiting sanding afterwards. Sometimes you don’t need to sand at all.
For windows I use plastic I cut from blister packs. Various thickness and quite clear.
“You can see it right now and that’s what matters.” I am a dentist and I live by that sentiment. No one will see this but me, but that is what matters.
Not sure if someone else noted this but the reason you sometimes see windows there, and sometimes not is that those windows could be rolled down. If they were left up, the concussion from the 16in guns would blow out the glass, so the windows would be rolled down to protect them when the guns were being fired, and rolled back up to keep out the elements when they were not; though I expect on hot days, they might have rolled them down as well just for the ventilation, although that was not their intended purpose
These videos are great. Thanks for making this series.
Your knife work is pretty neat. Practiced, muscle memory, using your tools for other than intended uses. All part of what to me is modeling! Another great modeling class.
Love watching you build and paint this gargantuan model. as another commenter noted, the "how-to" details are great. One thing I would like to ask, could you please include a quick shot of the entire ship at the end of the videos, so we can see how what you're showcasing fits in to the total model. I eagerly await each new installment of watching this come together.
Thank you so much for the plug my dude! Really glad you dig what we're doing with Call For Fire!
Thank you once again for including the “how-to” details. Makes for a very satisfying video. The work continues to look fantastic!
Awesome work and I've found it the largest work that shows the littlest progress at first and then it bam done thank you ma'am
Your work in the Arizona was fantastic, but this one...wow,I can't wait until the finished product. You seem to be going above and beyond with each new build,but the Missouri build makes the others look pale in comparison...you do absolutely fantastic work Ben,and adding the "how to" details to the videos adds even more help to us "rank amateurs"...as always,I look forward to the next video,and the opportunity to learn new tips and tricks...cheers bud
Great work on display here and well done!I used to work on the USS New Jersey in Camden NJ and just a fun fact that the glazing on the bridge was designed to be rolled down and protected (out of sight) during anticipated use of the main armament.
Thanks Ben. I really like to see your actual assembly process. Dave
I find it best to mix up a bottle of the deck blue stain. This way there will not really be much of an issue trying to match color per deck layer. Looking great and thank you for your posts!
Very nice, and inspirational.
Was thinking if it is a good idea to add some details inside the bridge and perhaps some LED?
Magnificent work, enjoyed it thoroughly!
Great video and great job
Nice had my bell on to catch you right away.
Thanks! Hope you liked it. Large chunks of this build are not particularly invigorating.
dude... Im just getting into modeling. I do a lot of electronics building and repair, so I'm kind of used to smaller details, but man, this blows me away. Had some ideas.. Maybe for that room with the glass windows, print out an image of the interior of the room to put in the background? Just an idea.. so you see something when you look in the window
Hi Ben. I love your videos and hope you can build the DKM Blucher by trumpeter. The scale is 1/350 and could be a mini procect
Coming along great.
Looking forward your next video, come on!
Awesome work. I’m at part #15, maybe my question is answered later. Do you prime before painting? I dont recall primer being mentionned in previous videos. Primer adds another layer that might hide some tiny details, so i guess its not necessary?
Yeah I don’t prime with enamel paints. I make sure the surface is CLEANED usually with rubbing alcohol before painting. Now if you’re using acrylics, you need to pay attention to each brand and figure out what’s best. Some of them you can get away with not using primer on. Others....not so much.
Have you been to any of the Iowa-class Battleship memorials? I've been on the Wisconsin and took a few shots of the interior battle bridge if you need references. Also, if I recall, the windows adjacent to the bridge could be retracted down and armored shutters moved up from below.
Yes, I have been to the Wisconsin a few time and the Missouri. I haven't decided on if I want to build the bridge interior or not yet. But I'll take the pics if you're willing to send them! TheMidwestModelShop@Gmail.com
Flag bridge for the Adm.
Hi Ben,
I’m building Tamiya’s 1/350 USS Missouri. The kit came with the Pontos blue wood deck. This deck has the plastic that you remove to use the adhesive backing. Just curious if you used the same kinda material. The question that I have is, if using this deck with the adhesive, has it ever pealed up or off on you?
Thanks
Brian
It will peel up unless you add wood glue to it. That sticky back gives the impression that it’s strong, and it is, but not for long.
Thanks Ben
Ben, I am very close to pulling the trigger on this kit and the upgrade kit. I noticed an MK1 upgrade kit with a deck. Do you know the differences between this upgrade kit and the Pontos offering?
Unfortunately, no. Early on in the series I asked if anyone had the MK1 kit and to comment. But no one said anything. I have heard online that the Pontos instructions are “better”.....but that’s not saying a lot because the instructions for this kit are mostly pictures of what the finished product should look like 🤷🏻♂️. Honestly, if you’re serious about the build and have a realistic idea of what you’re getting into, the Pontos kits is awesome.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thank you very much for your reply.
What if I only remove 1/16 of the paint instead of the 2/32? Will that work?
Nope. You have to remove 1/32nd and then another 1/32. If you just go to 1/16th, you'll actually have removed 3/32nd and that will be too much. 4/64th may be best in your case.
@@TheMidwestModelShop oooohhhh, thank you for clearing that up. What if I just do half of 1/8?
*N i c e*
I'm curious why you don't use wood stain on the deck if it is real wood?
Well for the Missouri at this time, it was stained weatherdeck blue. So that’s why I went with the paint to get the affect I wanted. I couldn’t find any dark blue wood stain. And then what would I do with the left overs? I just try to keep things simple.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Awesome! It looks amazing, can't wait to see how it turns out! Where do keep a model this size?
Well that’s a good question. We have it on a buffet coming into our house at the moment. But with the current Titanic build underway, I’m probably going to put some shelves up on one of the shop walls for them.
Where'd you get that grease pencil from?
Amazon. I put a link in one of the videos.
will pva adhere to plastic?
I would think so. I use Gorilla Wood Glue and it sticks just fine.
Will ya just make it look human for a change!! Lol Let's see if ya can make a 2 hr movie!! Lmao!! Every builder has stretches where everything goes just like you show , SMOOOOOTH AND EASY!! Then there the WTH times where easy seems impossible!!
She looks fantastic!!
Thanks Bro!