Manufacturer says: "output power: 80W, peak power 130W, more than 80W, please strengthen the heat dissipation." You force it over 140W and without a fan...! Gollik :)
Yup, the handful I got are documented as 80W modules, that would be 3.3A at 24V. One of them failed at 140W sustained which seems pretty good, that's 175% rated load.
nice review, btu here 16:05 the input power it's 185w, the manufacturer says maximum 80w without cooling... and at 23:05 you where pulling 120w, again more than the manifacturer limits
Thank you very much. Your advice not to buy the defective module will protect many people from buying useless things. Greetings from madina Saudi Arabia.
Yeah, the board is just fine, it's that you tried to over-cook it. I bought five so far , for various projects... in both locations i bought it from, it was strongly speccified that over a certain limit (can't remember which) you're meant to cool it. Sure enough, there's variants with a big heat sink on the back, but that costs more than the standard or the cheapie variant (that one has, among other differences, a fuse that's soldered directly to the board). Ultimately, you needed cooling. Of course something's faulty if you don't follow specs.
As and engineer the first test of any module voltage rating is test if the module is burning out as a full bridge converter then the ic is faulty and shot through is happening causing failure or the mosfet current rating is very low so I suggest removing the mosfet and add higher current rating mosfet with thick enough heatsink
I'm surprised you tried to run this above 80W. Mine work fine. I had a look at the AliExpress TENSTAR store you mentioned in your video. The specs on this page clearly state "Output current: 10 A (MAX) ,long term within 8A" and "Output power: 80W, Peak 130W, more than 80W please strengthen heat dissipation". So going above either 80W output power or 8A output current will likely smoke the board - which your video proves will happen. I don't see how this is a FAIL of the board though.
on most stores on eBay and AliExpress they claim incorrect values. When they sell the item they should labels it with the current at the state the item is sold. Then they should say "for higher current use heat sink or fun" but they do it the opposite. they mention the higher current which the device can't handle and ask people to use extra heat sink or fan and that is not fair to the buyer. this happens to me many time. After receiving the time I realized they cheated with title. so I am now educating people. they might read it carefully.
I agree with your comment about online sellers. It can be really bad. I've ordered ICs and transistors where they've taken a cheaper or different component and printed the name of the expensive component on it. Every item you receive, you have to test to its specs so you have some confidence you received what you paid for. Then you have to waste more hours of your own time testing and taking photos for when you open a dispute to get a refund. I've won all my disputes. Hopefully if the sellers get enough disputes they will lose enough money and stop this practice. My last dispute for a "fake item", where I clearly showed it was a cheaper IC printed with the numbers for a more expensive IC; AliExpress stepped in and resolved the dispute within a day - they didn't even wait for the seller to respond. I think they are trying harder now to stop this problem.
My concern with your review is just that I've found the LTC3780 to be a good buck-boost converter. If it's used within the *manufacturer's* specs (80W) it seems to work well. The *fail* is really on the seller, not the LTC3780 module itself. Your review makes it appear the LTC3780 module is the problem when it actually wasn't - people might find that misleading.
@@peterrfoster I agree, you read seller's specs correct. Moreover, if there is a max current stated in case of DC-DC modules this usually means the greater of the input/output current figure. It does not matter for the module how many amps load is receiving, what matters is the peak currents going through switches and inductor, which are often far from RMS values. Dude smoked his converter while drawing 15A on input, blames module with puny heatsinks that won't even dissipate a couple of watts at reasonable working temps.
One more thing: I checked again. During combustion, the input power of the module was 187 watts and the input current was 15 amperes! So the two values were very high than the manufacturer's information. I have the module and am very happy to use it and am very satisfied with it. You need to be a little more careful. You have no right to spoil such a successful product ..!
Hello, I know the chip functions as expected. I am trying to test modules where people are fooled and buy them from the title or details of listed items on eBay or Amazon. see this example on eBay www.ebay.ca/itm/221953001309 it claims: 130W or 10A. CLAIM on eBay: This module has a perfect protection function **** where is protection. the current was 6A. Power was 139W LAIM on eBay: Constant voltage, constant current, under voltage protection **** where is protection. the current was 6A. Power was 139W . Where is constant current? When the power increases, any converter should reduce the voltage in order to keep the power/current at maximum allowed. . This is crazy, they claim "This module has a perfect protection function, and can be widely used in notebook power,". Wow. laptop the most expensive device and you want people to connect it. See it here as image snipboard.io/4GjMr8.jpg and this snipboard.io/hXlIu6.jpg so I have to tell let people to they know. The same is true on Amazon www.amazon.com/s?k=LTC3780&ref=nb_sb_noss so indeed this is bad module. Absolutely no protection.
As far as I know the peak output power of LTC3780 is max at 130watts. 15:50. 5amps at 24volts produces 120watts of power so it is acceptable but as soon as you hit the 140watts, it starts to smoke. I think that is the reason.
if you look at datasheet, it doesn't limit the power. It has only current mentioned www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/LTC3780.pdf
Another great video, thank you! So in the end what did you think and which buck converter do you like the most in the 6A range? I’m needing to power a 5V 6A system (max, 3-4A on average) : two BST Lighting 8x32 LED matrices (each can draw 5v 3A) and an ESP32. Wondering what a favorite of yours might be that’s also efficient (I would use a 12v or 16v power supply). Do you still like the XL4016 or something else now? I’m also thinking about wiring two XL4016 modules in parallel but I’m not sure if I would need to place a diode on them for backflow protections... also not sure if I’d need to ground every device back to the 12v power supply. So maybe just having a singular buck would be best? 😅🤣Thanks again!
Hi, I have created separate energy related channel called WattHour www.youtube.com/@watthour and becauyse I have done so many reivews I actually don't remember as I have not used them. I am using a dedicated boxed power supply. Sorry.
This is not a fail module. Works pretty good. Those comments from the supplier shop its just ignorance. The board when you buy it, comes with undervoltage protection around 12v they just need to turn the potenciometer until the protection lifts. Another ignorance its the fact that the board manual says that above 80 watts it needs to strengthen the heat dissipation. So its nothing wrong with the board. This guy its just overstressing the board without the proper heat dissipation.
@@robojax I used this board for a DIY bench power supply 3 years ago. Its still use it for my projects/repairs and works with no problems. And i supplied more than 6 amps already with it and it still lives. But ofc it needs a fan and proper heat sink like any other bench power supply.
@@robojax I always using watts as my limit parameter. Using amps just missleading. Am sure you still can use 10Amps, but only 8 volts (so 80 watts) as the safe limit without propper cooling.
This board is rated 80W max. If you missuse it, don't blame it for breaking... And pls don't tell people it's crappy... But nice video to get an impression how it works.
Hello, but it died while I was adjusting it. they claim it has protection and it does not. I am testing based on listing on eBay and aliExpress see one of many examples snipboard.io/hXlIu6.jpg
@@robojax Don't think it has a design defect - its rather clickbait advertising with that 10 amps rating, which only holds for up to 8 volts (=80W max)
I found this board in my drawer, it's probably a few years old and when I connect it to the power supply the fault LED is lit up. I tried adjusting the potentiometer closest to the input and when I turn it all the way CCW, the module draws a lot of current from the PSU so yeah, it's total crap
the mosfets are a SMT type, wettable flank. Problem is they are incorrectly heatsinked, where the actual side meant to be heatsinked is thermally isolated and the heatsink size and placement wasn't appropriate for this type of circuit.
This board cannot handle more than 32v input even though the chip supports up to 40v. And lose potentiometer connections can also burn the MOSFETs pretty easily. I had 2 of these and both died after fa while. I think it's either due to the fact that my PSU output is 36v or since I desoldered all pots and replaced it with 3 pin JSTs.
Полностью согласен с другим комментарием, модули перегружены. Их штатная мощность 80 ватт, а с них снималось больше 100... Выход из строя закономерен. Вместе с тем, тут наглядно и детально видно, как они себя ведут в разных условиях, это полезная информация.
No comprendo tu video, un modulo de 80W maximo a 110W pico por pocos segundos, lo llevaste a más de la potencia disipada máxima, y superaste la corriente máxima de entrada del modulo y este se quemo. No era algo predecible que esto pasaria?
Thank you for sharing this video, seems the power transistors is not capable to handle that current , did you tried to fix the dead module by replacing the transistors with powerful ones ?
Hi, my board also died, during adjusting Vout. But there is one major difference - I had no output here (so no current flowing), just voltmeter attached on output. I did not see any smoke, green diode started to blink from bright to dim. So I disconencted the input and after I connected input again (12 V), fault led turned on (not blinking, it was steady on). LTC3780 chip gets REALLY HOT now. I thought I did some soldering mistake (I replaced trimmers with potentiometers), but now I see that my usage might not be a reason and I will ask for my money back. Thank you for this video. I am now seeking for some more reliable replacement, as I had a plan to build low-cost power supply based on this board.
@@robojax I will give a change to "10A DC-DC BUCK BOOST MODULE STEP DOWN UP 5-30V TO 1-30V WITH CURRENT CONTROL" It is available from ebay, aliexpress... It is different design, but should have the same functionality. I know it will have far from 10A, but I do not expect running heavy loads with it. If this will also fail, I will try to "copy" the design and enhance it with help of some electro-engineer.
Was the first thing to smoke one of the input-side FETs? (FETs "A" or "B" in the datasheet example)? Possibly failing with its gate shorted to source and/or drain, backfeeding input voltage to gate-drive pins of the LTC3780 itself and causing that chip to then fail? I've been using one of these modules as a 24V->13.4V buck converter with no trouble so far, but unfortunately its current-limit feature is inoperable when there's a common negative/ground between input & output, because it depends on all output current passing a 7-milliohm resistor in series with the negative output terminal (voltage across this shunt being sensed by one half of the LM358 opamp; its other half serving the low-voltage cutout circuit). After watching your video, I'm changing its output fuse from 15A to 10A to hopefully avoid a similar fate!
Thank you @Jordan for sharing your thoughts and experience. yes this module should be designed differently to make it reliable. I am sure 100 if no 1000s of this has failed and they are still selling it.
@@robojax I think the provided heatsinks should have been larger to safely handle this module's claimed power rating. I placed a 1mm-thick thermal pad under mine, allowing the (well-vented) metal case it's mounted in to serve as additional heatsinking for the FETs. I considered using a fan, but since it's normally passing 5A or less that shouldn't be necessary. It turns out the current-limiting is not completely useless with a common negative, so long as resistance of the external bypass path via ground isn't hugely less than the 7-milliohm sensing shunt resistance. It just needs to be dialed way down to account for only a fraction of output current flowing through the shunt.
You overloaded it, simple. It's maximum 130W for the chip and it's most efficient between 10-15V on both output and input with 90%+ efficiency. If you fully load it, at 130W and 90% eff. the board will have to dissipate 13W of heat between the MOSFETs and the chip, but mostly the MOSFETs. Obviously, those heatsinks cannot do that, they can probably do like 3W each passively. You have to strap a fan on it or figure out a different cooling solution if you want the full power. There are actually holes for it in the board, it's just that this supplier chose the simpler, smaller, and cheaper cooling solution. In this configuration it's thermally limited to 60, maybe 70 watts, if you are at the top or the very bottom of the voltage range, more like 50W watts. I'm no EE engineer, but this is probably my favorite design. It's efficient 4-switch single coil topology, sensible board layout, it implements the Vin limit feature and is usually built with proper (albeit cheap) components (mine has nicer ceramic current sensing resistors). It's a fine design, especially for the price, you just have to know how to use it and what it's limitations are. And since the original design appeared many more years ago before this video and is still popular enough that so many seller make it, I'm probably not the only one,
I was wondering which DC-DC stepup converter you would suggest for 5V (USB) or 12V to 21V for low amp (max. 2.4 A input) but "high" efficiency applications? There are tons available and many of them you managed to bring to their end rather fast...
There is not problem. Try adjust potentiometer low voltage protection. I have 5pcs this module like this. No problem found. Just adjust low voltage protection potentiometer. Done!
Boss, thank you very much for sharing this with us. God richly bless you. Somme people tested this device and did not tell us the truth about it. They rather confirmed that it is fine instead of speaking out, they pretend the device is good. You are good man. Nice to hear from you.
RoboJax, Please help (1) I want use buckboost converter as a backup for my 19v Dell laptop (90W power max) using a 12v car battery. Could you tell me which is the best module for this task. (2) For my 12v 3A router, which would be the best buckboost converter, same battery. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for such a review. For purpose of making an adjustable bench power supply, to have 0 to 30 Volts and 0 to 5 Amps, what kind of Buck and Boost module do you suggest?
You are welcome. This is very hard to suggest. I waited this long to reply. But Buck boost is not a good idea. Get 30V pour source and use Buck converter and that would be easiest .
Sir, thank you first of all. I am try to doing psu lab. Tell me please LTC3780 fault led was blink after so was hot. Did it burned or Am I should check again this pots? Thank you a lot.
Hi, you are welcome. you make my watch this long video (remember I have over 400 videos as of now). I have shown the fault LED twice. I have even link to the section of the video where the module dies. module 1 dies and module 1 dies. you can go directly there by clicking on the link (time) in the description. Yes blinking means it is dead. do not buy this again. it will die.
Aassalam sir thanks for your help it a very helpful video I have also brought 3 module all the module where faulty from the box but I manage to work 2 out of 3 buy simply,changing the 40 amp MOSFET and have to power supply from them the are working but I was wondering to make a digital version of the unit but now I think it a very bad idea after seeing this video thanks sirf Allah Hafiz
I have just ordered 3, so i can repair portable coolers for car usage. From the manufacturer they had negative converters, meaning that the Input GND is output postive. I don't need more than 5A at 13-14V out, so i guess i'll be safe when is set the minimal input to 11V. That will also serve as a overdischarge protection. Yes, it clearly says 10A. If you want more, solder on some beefier FETs, that might just do it.
@@blubbspinat9363 hello, how is this ltc going with your cooler? I want power 13v 5A led chip with 12-14.4v power source from vehicle. Is this module can handle it?
I really wish this review came out earlier but robojax can you please suggest a good module that can be used to charge a 200wh battery pack. It's a 3s10p pack. Thanks very much
3S you mean 11.1v 200wh you mean 18000mAh ( including the 10P i calculate ) For safe charge 18000mah, you need charger 20% current resume from your battery max current It's a 3600ma You battery 3S need a charge exactly 12.4 ( no more ) it's the safety but you can charge it with 12.76 and that consider pick overcharged. Soo you need a DC-DC converter set the output to 12.4V with the short current of 3.6A ( pay attention what I mean short current ) because you need importantly the current limited I advise you to use XL4015 5A CC CV lithium batteries, charge model, with display www.aliexpress.com/item/1654316921.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.25137ee3CdGuI1 buy this unit its have good many uses
We need to know capacity of each cell. to accurately calcualte. As @abed calculated it 18Ah is when you look at the bank . if you want to proceed with his calculations, then I have video for that module ruclips.net/video/AkbiOcpWZy4/видео.html
Hi . This model is not 10 A I have 3 from them they work fine with me . You have to 1 : change the fuse to 10 amp 2 : Your input current have to not pass 9A or you will kill the mosfet . 3 : you need to add a small fan to cool down the heat that comes from the heat think .( Try if you can change the heat think because they are not good cooler ) IAM use right now 2 from this model One to convert 12v battery up to 26v to operate a device that need 2battery . And in reverse the device is supposed to charge 2 battery and IAM use the second one to step down the charge from 28 down to 13.8 to charge the battery .( I add diods to block the reverse between battery and charger so there will not to be conflicts between 2 converters ) The model is good as shot operation or you need to lower the current to 3amp in the input for this cooler size . As my experience in many DC to DC converter this device is overrated in design and power and downrated in cooler system and protection over power and current .
thank you. this I always do. it failed while I was adjusting it . Defective design. I get the title which says 10A and I put 10A to show people not to get mislead with title. with input of 3A and lets say 5V, 3x5=15W so output at of 5V, 15W÷15V=1A (-15%) =0.85A
summary: this guy did the same mistake i did turn it all the way up till it burn but blame the victim not yourself nor who sold it (sold it cause allegedly false advertisement he told people about on comments)
hello great channel. acquire such a plate and after replacing the potentiometer the plate will not turn on anymore. and short at the entry and exit poles. What can it be?
Hello, why you replace the potentiometer? it must be different value or bad soldering. remember the potentiometer is multi-turn meaning you have to turn it 10 to 15 turns before you see changes. do it slowly.
Good review! In Boost mode from 12v to 24v it failed , there was almost 40w being wasted. In Buck mode from ~31v to 12v@5A was only wasting 4w. Is this the best Buck converter that you reviewed so far ?
Thank you very much for the video, i have got know the same problem occured to me, although i can't do much about it. But can you please suggest me a circuit which can regulate voltage and amps.( i want to make power supply with range of 1-30v and 0-10 amps) It would be great if u suggested anything. Thank u. : -)
the potentiometer is multi-turn. so you have to turn it 15 to 20 times. 1-short circuit the output (connect + and - together) while putting Ampere meter (ammeter) in series to see the current 2- Adjust the current potentiometer to achieve desired value on the meter. 3-disconnect the short circuit from output,. Done. if your module can't adjust the current, it is dead.
I had three duds straight from the box, have one other in service now for last couple of years and it is working fine. Really pissed about the first three though 🤬🤬🤬
Assalamu alikum brother Jazakalhu khairan I was meaning to buy this until I watched your video Any board buck boost converter you can recommend for 100w solar panel
Walaikum salam, I can't suggest because there are so many factors involved. For example with 100W what is the voltage? if you work with 60V it would be hard. if you work with 12V it would be easy. With 100W, at 12V, 100÷12=8.33A so you need 12V 10A and do the same way the calculation. I have done a lot or reviews, search my channel and I am sure you will find. eBay.com and AliExpress is your source after you know what module you need.
i found out the board you purchased are fake batch , original ones dont have the two heat sinks rather it has a silver heatsink at the bottom of board, original ones are very good infact
Every similar module I have ever used was rated at INPUT current, not output current! With 12 volts in and 24 volts out, (voltage boost mode), you need twice as much input current as output current. You loaded the unit to 8 or 9 amperes, which would requite an INPUT current of MORE than 16 or 18 amperes! If you are boosting 12 v to 24 v and limit your input current to 10 amps, your output would be a little less than 5 amps and you would not have seen any smoke.....
In principle for power supply the main rating is about output. not input. when we say 10A 12V it means the output. Based on this people buy them and if they can't offer 10A, they should have protection or burn. Input current is a parameter which should be mentioned in the specs. but no in the main title of the product.
@@robojax That's what I thought too, and learned the hard way;..... just as you will...! Boost inverters are rated as input voltage times maximum input current = max watts out. A 1200 watt 10 amp boost inverter is only rated at 120 watts at 12 vdc input And only 50 watts at 5 vdc input....... You need to learn how to read the fine print. Worse yet, the current limiter on many of the boost converters will not work when they are being used to charge a battery!
it is not about the manual. it is about the claim on eBay, Amazon and AliExpress where they cheat people and cliam huge amout of current or power. So I try to help people know this module can't do it at that value.
И да - подавать на ВХОД 15.6А и УДИВЛЯТЬСЯ, что 15А предохранитель сгорел? Ну ок. Отличный из вас инженер... Может вы не заметили предохранителя? Или не он сгорел? К слову - на данный модуль номинальный входной ток - 10А! И ОБЩАЯ мощность 80Вт. Вы превысили все пределы почти в два раза и удивляетесь, что оно сгорело? Реально?
There is I more module on Ali Express at zqc store it is also a boost buck converter priced 312.93 Paisa and plus shipping of 345.09 Paisa Indian rupees kindly request to check that as well thanks have a good day allah hafiz
@@robojax Yeah I don't get the blow issues all topology is calculated and tested before I put my designs on the market in my country I use only semiconductor brand in ic and hy4008 fet ior ight for high current and low losses in heating like what I see on the modules you testing smoking if the heat sink in tin and small the mosfet has too much heating building up around the dye why the dye blow out and shorted making smoke or the fet current rating is 7 amp,I work with mains voltage 400dc and I built a test circuit for fet to test current rating and voltage rating before I add to pcb running a business in my current is very hard to mess up paying back customers and ruin my business so I have to test fully
indeed. I wasted money on more than one module. I can't believe sill people become victim of this scam. You can't return it to China as they will ask you to payh for the shipping to ship it back. so you are scammed.
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Manufacturer says: "output power: 80W, peak power 130W, more than 80W, please strengthen the heat dissipation." You force it over 140W and without a fan...! Gollik :)
It worked well for me by following these guidelines. Maybe the manufacturer or where he bought it's the problem, there are many alternatives in China
100% agree with your comment
Yeah, I think he said its a 10A module and was driving 16A though it, wasn't surprised with the magic smoke.
Yup, the handful I got are documented as 80W modules, that would be 3.3A at 24V. One of them failed at 140W sustained which seems pretty good, that's 175% rated load.
nice review, btu here 16:05 the input power it's 185w, the manufacturer says maximum 80w without cooling... and at 23:05 you where pulling 120w, again more than the manifacturer limits
Thank you very much. Your advice not to buy the defective module will protect many people from buying useless things.
Greetings from madina Saudi Arabia.
You are welcome!
Yeah, the board is just fine, it's that you tried to over-cook it. I bought five so far , for various projects... in both locations i bought it from, it was strongly speccified that over a certain limit (can't remember which) you're meant to cool it. Sure enough, there's variants with a big heat sink on the back, but that costs more than the standard or the cheapie variant (that one has, among other differences, a fuse that's soldered directly to the board).
Ultimately, you needed cooling. Of course something's faulty if you don't follow specs.
As and engineer the first test of any module voltage rating is test if the module is burning out as a full bridge converter then the ic is faulty and shot through is happening causing failure or the mosfet current rating is very low so I suggest removing the mosfet and add higher current rating mosfet with thick enough heatsink
I'm surprised you tried to run this above 80W. Mine work fine. I had a look at the AliExpress TENSTAR store you mentioned in your video. The specs on this page clearly state "Output current: 10 A (MAX) ,long term within 8A" and "Output power: 80W, Peak 130W, more than 80W please strengthen heat dissipation". So going above either 80W output power or 8A output current will likely smoke the board - which your video proves will happen. I don't see how this is a FAIL of the board though.
on most stores on eBay and AliExpress they claim incorrect values. When they sell the item they should labels it with the current at the state the item is sold. Then they should say "for higher current use heat sink or fun" but they do it the opposite. they mention the higher current which the device can't handle and ask people to use extra heat sink or fan and that is not fair to the buyer. this happens to me many time. After receiving the time I realized they cheated with title. so I am now educating people. they might read it carefully.
I agree with your comment about online sellers. It can be really bad. I've ordered ICs and transistors where they've taken a cheaper or different component and printed the name of the expensive component on it. Every item you receive, you have to test to its specs so you have some confidence you received what you paid for. Then you have to waste more hours of your own time testing and taking photos for when you open a dispute to get a refund. I've won all my disputes. Hopefully if the sellers get enough disputes they will lose enough money and stop this practice. My last dispute for a "fake item", where I clearly showed it was a cheaper IC printed with the numbers for a more expensive IC; AliExpress stepped in and resolved the dispute within a day - they didn't even wait for the seller to respond. I think they are trying harder now to stop this problem.
My concern with your review is just that I've found the LTC3780 to be a good buck-boost converter. If it's used within the *manufacturer's* specs (80W) it seems to work well. The *fail* is really on the seller, not the LTC3780 module itself. Your review makes it appear the LTC3780 module is the problem when it actually wasn't - people might find that misleading.
@@robojax Yea, the board itself is not a failure then, it's the false advertising.
@@peterrfoster I agree, you read seller's specs correct. Moreover, if there is a max current stated in case of DC-DC modules this usually means the greater of the input/output current figure. It does not matter for the module how many amps load is receiving, what matters is the peak currents going through switches and inductor, which are often far from RMS values.
Dude smoked his converter while drawing 15A on input, blames module with puny heatsinks that won't even dissipate a couple of watts at reasonable working temps.
One more thing: I checked again. During combustion, the input power of the module was 187 watts and the input current was 15 amperes! So the two values were very high than the manufacturer's information. I have the module and am very happy to use it and am very satisfied with it. You need to be a little more careful. You have no right to spoil such a successful product ..!
Hello, I know the chip functions as expected. I am trying to test modules where people are fooled and buy them from the title or details of listed items on eBay or Amazon. see this example on eBay www.ebay.ca/itm/221953001309
it claims:
130W or 10A.
CLAIM on eBay: This module has a perfect protection function
**** where is protection. the current was 6A. Power was 139W
LAIM on eBay: Constant voltage, constant current, under voltage protection
**** where is protection. the current was 6A. Power was 139W . Where is constant current?
When the power increases, any converter should reduce the voltage in order to keep the power/current at maximum allowed. . This is crazy, they claim "This module has a perfect protection function, and can be widely used in notebook power,". Wow. laptop the most expensive device and you want people to connect it.
See it here as image snipboard.io/4GjMr8.jpg and this snipboard.io/hXlIu6.jpg
so I have to tell let people to they know.
The same is true on Amazon www.amazon.com/s?k=LTC3780&ref=nb_sb_noss
so indeed this is bad module. Absolutely no protection.
@@robojax are you Kurd?
Persian from Afghanistan.
@@robojax without buying on an official source that is expected to happen they are 3rd party seller of course they would lie
Hello, what module do you recommend the one that appears in the video or this W XL4016 DC-DC Max 9A, for a 90W 19V 4.5A source?
As far as I know the peak output power of LTC3780 is max at 130watts. 15:50. 5amps at 24volts produces 120watts of power so it is acceptable but as soon as you hit the 140watts, it starts to smoke. I think that is the reason.
if you look at datasheet, it doesn't limit the power. It has only current mentioned www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/LTC3780.pdf
even so he doesn't even have cooling fan he should know that going above 40 watts should have been bad idea
Another great video, thank you! So in the end what did you think and which buck converter do you like the most in the 6A range? I’m needing to power a 5V 6A system (max, 3-4A on average) : two BST Lighting 8x32 LED matrices (each can draw 5v 3A) and an ESP32. Wondering what a favorite of yours might be that’s also efficient (I would use a 12v or 16v power supply). Do you still like the XL4016 or something else now? I’m also thinking about wiring two XL4016 modules in parallel but I’m not sure if I would need to place a diode on them for backflow protections... also not sure if I’d need to ground every device back to the 12v power supply. So maybe just having a singular buck would be best? 😅🤣Thanks again!
Hi, I have created separate energy related channel called WattHour www.youtube.com/@watthour and becauyse I have done so many reivews I actually don't remember as I have not used them. I am using a dedicated boxed power supply. Sorry.
This is not a fail module. Works pretty good. Those comments from the supplier shop its just ignorance. The board when you buy it, comes with undervoltage protection around 12v they just need to turn the potenciometer until the protection lifts. Another ignorance its the fact that the board manual says that above 80 watts it needs to strengthen the heat dissipation. So its nothing wrong with the board. This guy its just overstressing the board without the proper heat dissipation.
everything is wrong with this. you can't even get 2A. they sell it as 10A module.
@@robojax I used this board for a DIY bench power supply 3 years ago. Its still use it for my projects/repairs and works with no problems. And i supplied more than 6 amps already with it and it still lives. But ofc it needs a fan and proper heat sink like any other bench power supply.
@@robojax I always using watts as my limit parameter. Using amps just missleading.
Am sure you still can use 10Amps, but only 8 volts (so 80 watts) as the safe limit without propper cooling.
This board is rated 80W max. If you missuse it, don't blame it for breaking... And pls don't tell people it's crappy... But nice video to get an impression how it works.
Hello, but it died while I was adjusting it. they claim it has protection and it does not. I am testing based on listing on eBay and aliExpress see one of many examples snipboard.io/hXlIu6.jpg
@@robojax yep thats the seller not the converter doesn't change the fact that you blame it for the failure
rotate the 3. potentiometer(the one at the INPUT) CCW for around 10-20 turns. After that, both of my modules started working(green led lit up)!
Thanks for sharing.
A video with useful information. thank you for sharing.
You are welcome. Tashakor
a hero wittout a cape, thanks a lot
You're welcome!
This board is rated at max 80Watt with the stock heatsinks and 130Watt as limit
most sellers just put 10A on the title and that's misleading and this module has design defect. Will do during operation or adjustment. Do not buy.
@@robojax If you aren't able to use it or correctly understand the specs this doesn't mean that all the people are like you. Bought.
@@robojax Don't think it has a design defect - its rather clickbait advertising with that 10 amps rating, which only holds for up to 8 volts (=80W max)
I found this board in my drawer, it's probably a few years old and when I connect it to the power supply the fault LED is lit up. I tried adjusting the potentiometer closest to the input and when I turn it all the way CCW, the module draws a lot of current from the PSU so yeah, it's total crap
thanx for telling the faults.. m having xl6009 step up module.. these modules r totally scrap..they dont work for long time specially when on loads
the mosfets are a SMT type, wettable flank. Problem is they are incorrectly heatsinked, where the actual side meant to be heatsinked is thermally isolated and the heatsink size and placement wasn't appropriate for this type of circuit.
This board cannot handle more than 32v input even though the chip supports up to 40v. And lose potentiometer connections can also burn the MOSFETs pretty easily. I had 2 of these and both died after fa while. I think it's either due to the fact that my PSU output is 36v or since I desoldered all pots and replaced it with 3 pin JSTs.
Полностью согласен с другим комментарием, модули перегружены. Их штатная мощность 80 ватт, а с них снималось больше 100...
Выход из строя закономерен.
Вместе с тем, тут наглядно и детально видно, как они себя ведут в разных условиях, это полезная информация.
Спасибо. Оставайся в безопасности.
No comprendo tu video, un modulo de 80W maximo a 110W pico por pocos segundos, lo llevaste a más de la potencia disipada máxima, y superaste la corriente máxima de entrada del modulo y este se quemo. No era algo predecible que esto pasaria?
Thank you for sharing this video, seems the power transistors is not capable to handle that current , did you tried to fix the dead module by replacing the transistors with powerful ones ?
I said, this is bad design. do not waste money.
Hi, my board also died, during adjusting Vout. But there is one major difference - I had no output here (so no current flowing), just voltmeter attached on output. I did not see any smoke, green diode started to blink from bright to dim. So I disconencted the input and after I connected input again (12 V), fault led turned on (not blinking, it was steady on). LTC3780 chip gets REALLY HOT now. I thought I did some soldering mistake (I replaced trimmers with potentiometers), but now I see that my usage might not be a reason and I will ask for my money back. Thank you for this video. I am now seeking for some more reliable replacement, as I had a plan to build low-cost power supply based on this board.
You are welcome. Yes. avoid it. Do not accept another item. Find some other solution.
@@robojax I will give a change to "10A DC-DC BUCK BOOST MODULE STEP DOWN UP 5-30V TO 1-30V WITH CURRENT CONTROL" It is available from ebay, aliexpress... It is different design, but should have the same functionality. I know it will have far from 10A, but I do not expect running heavy loads with it. If this will also fail, I will try to "copy" the design and enhance it with help of some electro-engineer.
Was the first thing to smoke one of the input-side FETs? (FETs "A" or "B" in the datasheet example)? Possibly failing with its gate shorted to source and/or drain, backfeeding input voltage to gate-drive pins of the LTC3780 itself and causing that chip to then fail? I've been using one of these modules as a 24V->13.4V buck converter with no trouble so far, but unfortunately its current-limit feature is inoperable when there's a common negative/ground between input & output, because it depends on all output current passing a 7-milliohm resistor in series with the negative output terminal (voltage across this shunt being sensed by one half of the LM358 opamp; its other half serving the low-voltage cutout circuit). After watching your video, I'm changing its output fuse from 15A to 10A to hopefully avoid a similar fate!
Thank you @Jordan for sharing your thoughts and experience. yes this module should be designed differently to make it reliable. I am sure 100 if no 1000s of this has failed and they are still selling it.
@@robojax I think the provided heatsinks should have been larger to safely handle this module's claimed power rating. I placed a 1mm-thick thermal pad under mine, allowing the (well-vented) metal case it's mounted in to serve as additional heatsinking for the FETs. I considered using a fan, but since it's normally passing 5A or less that shouldn't be necessary. It turns out the current-limiting is not completely useless with a common negative, so long as resistance of the external bypass path via ground isn't hugely less than the 7-milliohm sensing shunt resistance. It just needs to be dialed way down to account for only a fraction of output current flowing through the shunt.
I didn't see you doing short circuit and setting constant current. Is that feature not available?
If we don’t have digital display to set current, that is the only way then
I got fault one ltc this module replacement is possible after unboxing this .
You overloaded it, simple. It's maximum 130W for the chip and it's most efficient between 10-15V on both output and input with 90%+ efficiency. If you fully load it, at 130W and 90% eff. the board will have to dissipate 13W of heat between the MOSFETs and the chip, but mostly the MOSFETs. Obviously, those heatsinks cannot do that, they can probably do like 3W each passively. You have to strap a fan on it or figure out a different cooling solution if you want the full power. There are actually holes for it in the board, it's just that this supplier chose the simpler, smaller, and cheaper cooling solution. In this configuration it's thermally limited to 60, maybe 70 watts, if you are at the top or the very bottom of the voltage range, more like 50W watts.
I'm no EE engineer, but this is probably my favorite design. It's efficient 4-switch single coil topology, sensible board layout, it implements the Vin limit feature and is usually built with proper (albeit cheap) components (mine has nicer ceramic current sensing resistors). It's a fine design, especially for the price, you just have to know how to use it and what it's limitations are. And since the original design appeared many more years ago before this video and is still popular enough that so many seller make it, I'm probably not the only one,
I was wondering which DC-DC stepup converter you would suggest for 5V (USB) or 12V to 21V for low amp (max. 2.4 A input) but "high" efficiency applications? There are tons available and many of them you managed to bring to their end rather fast...
There is not problem. Try adjust potentiometer low voltage protection. I have 5pcs this module like this. No problem found. Just adjust low voltage protection potentiometer. Done!
just like it holds the voltage. does it also hold the current like its voltage?
That feature is called constant current or CC. Watch and see if it has.
Boss, thank you very much for sharing this with us. God richly bless you. Somme people tested this device and did not tell us the truth about it. They rather confirmed that it is fine instead of speaking out, they pretend the device is good. You are good man. Nice to hear from you.
You are welcome. Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you
Co ty pieprzysz .... Co ma to do religii??🤷♀
RoboJax, Please help (1) I want use buckboost converter as a backup for my 19v Dell laptop (90W power max) using a 12v car battery. Could you tell me which is the best module for this task. (2) For my 12v 3A router, which would be the best buckboost converter, same battery. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I have separate channel on PowerSupplies and energy called WattHour here www.youtube.com/@watthour I don't remember the converters rates.
Thank you for such a review. For purpose of making an adjustable bench power supply, to have 0 to 30 Volts and 0 to 5 Amps, what kind of Buck and Boost module do you suggest?
You are welcome. This is very hard to suggest. I waited this long to reply. But Buck boost is not a good idea. Get 30V pour source and use Buck converter and that would be easiest .
Try D3806 boost buck 38v 6a max. Good board with reasonable price for Diy
Sir, thank you first of all. I am try to doing psu lab. Tell me please LTC3780 fault led was blink after so was hot. Did it burned or Am I should check again this pots? Thank you a lot.
Hi, you are welcome. you make my watch this long video (remember I have over 400 videos as of now). I have shown the fault LED twice. I have even link to the section of the video where the module dies. module 1 dies and module 1 dies. you can go directly there by clicking on the link (time) in the description. Yes blinking means it is dead. do not buy this again. it will die.
@@robojax I didn't see your reply, just now Im seeing. Thank you sir. These your review videos so important for this areas. Thanks again.
Aassalam sir thanks for your help it a very helpful video I have also brought 3 module all the module where faulty from the box but I manage to work 2 out of 3 buy simply,changing the 40 amp MOSFET and have to power supply from them the are working but I was wondering to make a digital version of the unit but now I think it a very bad idea after seeing this video thanks sirf Allah Hafiz
walaikum alaam, You are welcome.
Nice work
god bless you
i though this is a 130w,10A Max converter... you overload the converter, and this may be the cause of the burn!
There are conflicting details about it on AliExpress. Perhaps I missed the maximum power.
indeed 130w 10A peak, but without good disipation and sustain draw, 80w/7A. its works perfectly until you burn it!
I have just ordered 3, so i can repair portable coolers for car usage. From the manufacturer they had negative converters, meaning that the Input GND is output postive. I don't need more than 5A at 13-14V out, so i guess i'll be safe when is set the minimal input to 11V. That will also serve as a overdischarge protection.
Yes, it clearly says 10A. If you want more, solder on some beefier FETs, that might just do it.
@@robojax "Perhaps"....
@@blubbspinat9363 hello, how is this ltc going with your cooler? I want power 13v 5A led chip with 12-14.4v power source from vehicle. Is this module can handle it?
thanks for the review.
You are welcome.
It's 10A at the input or output. And you put to 15.
Before made this video, did you know how many amps endure the converter?
like other people. I read what the seller says. I am trying to educate people not to trust what they read on eBay or AliExpress.
I really wish this review came out earlier but robojax can you please suggest a good module that can be used to charge a 200wh battery pack. It's a 3s10p pack. Thanks very much
3S you mean 11.1v
200wh you mean 18000mAh ( including the 10P i calculate )
For safe charge 18000mah, you need charger 20% current resume from your battery max current
It's a 3600ma
You battery 3S need a charge exactly 12.4 ( no more ) it's the safety but you can charge it with 12.76 and that consider pick overcharged.
Soo you need a DC-DC converter set the output to 12.4V with the short current of 3.6A ( pay attention what I mean short current ) because you need importantly the current limited
I advise you to use XL4015 5A CC CV lithium batteries, charge model, with display
www.aliexpress.com/item/1654316921.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.25137ee3CdGuI1
buy this unit its have good many uses
We need to know capacity of each cell. to accurately calcualte. As @abed calculated it 18Ah is when you look at the bank . if you want to proceed with his calculations, then I have video for that module ruclips.net/video/AkbiOcpWZy4/видео.html
Hi .
This model is not 10 A
I have 3 from them they work fine with me .
You have to
1 : change the fuse to 10 amp
2 : Your input current have to not pass 9A or you will kill the mosfet .
3 : you need to add a small fan to cool down the heat that comes from the heat think .( Try if you can change the heat think because they are not good cooler )
IAM use right now 2 from this model
One to convert 12v battery up to 26v to operate a device that need 2battery .
And in reverse the device is supposed to charge 2 battery and IAM use the second one to step down the charge from 28 down to 13.8 to charge the battery .( I add diods to block the reverse between battery and charger so there will not to be conflicts between 2 converters )
The model is good as shot operation or you need to lower the current to 3amp in the input for this cooler size .
As my experience in many DC to DC converter this device is overrated in design and power and downrated in cooler system and protection over power and current .
thank you. this I always do. it failed while I was adjusting it . Defective design.
I get the title which says 10A and I put 10A to show people not to get mislead with title. with input of 3A and lets say 5V, 3x5=15W so output at of 5V, 15W÷15V=1A (-15%) =0.85A
Any suggeestions, if hiher power draw/rating is needed?
Can you make some adds for this unit like adding led display to showing volts and amperes?
that is in my list. If time permits, God willing I will make tutorial for that.
i need 12v and 2amp current is it possible with this modulle and my input 14.4 v and 30amp is proper for my project
I believe I made the video to answer these types of questions. So please watch and see if you can get 12V output.
@@robojax THANKS A LOT I HAD SEEN YOUR ALL BUCK BOOT/ BUCK/BOOST CONVERTER VIDEOS CAUSE NO ONE SHOW ALL DETAILS LIKE YOU I LIKE YOUER VIDEOS
It's better for 5amp, nice efficiency
yes it does.
what module would you recoment i want to make a bench power supply ... and need a buck boost converter with variable amperage
summary: this guy did the same mistake i did turn it all the way up till it burn but blame the victim not yourself nor who sold it (sold it cause allegedly false advertisement he told people about on comments)
what should I have done? if there is a knob, you should be free to rotate it. they should have preventative mechanism to keep it safe.
hello great channel. acquire such a plate and after replacing the potentiometer the plate will not turn on anymore. and short at the entry and exit poles. What can it be?
Hello, why you replace the potentiometer? it must be different value or bad soldering. remember the potentiometer is multi-turn meaning you have to turn it 10 to 15 turns before you see changes. do it slowly.
Good review!
In Boost mode from 12v to 24v it failed , there was almost 40w being wasted.
In Buck mode from ~31v to 12v@5A was only wasting 4w.
Is this the best Buck converter that you reviewed so far ?
Hi, have you watched the video? Right on camera as I was testing 2 of them died. so this is just junk. Do not buy it.
works fine for me 2 years running
I am sure you are not getting 10A at the output as they claim.
good
Thanks
Thank you very much for the video, i have got know the same problem occured to me, although i can't do much about it. But can you please suggest me a circuit which can regulate voltage and amps.( i want to make power supply with range of 1-30v and 0-10 amps)
It would be great if u suggested anything.
Thank u. : -)
you are welcome. I have review of so many products and don't remember any. you should search and watch to see which one fits your need.
its ridicules that people start testing something without reading manual you should stop making reviews if you do not read manual first of all
Hello sir, I cannot adjust the current in this module, Can you help me?
the potentiometer is multi-turn. so you have to turn it 15 to 20 times. 1-short circuit the output (connect + and - together) while putting Ampere meter (ammeter) in series to see the current 2- Adjust the current potentiometer to achieve desired value on the meter. 3-disconnect the short circuit from output,. Done. if your module can't adjust the current, it is dead.
I had three duds straight from the box, have one other in service now for last couple of years and it is working fine. Really pissed about the first three though 🤬🤬🤬
I hope please do research before buying this module so they know not to.
Assalamu alikum brother
Jazakalhu khairan
I was meaning to buy this until I watched your video
Any board buck boost converter you can recommend for 100w solar panel
Walaikum salam, I can't suggest because there are so many factors involved. For example with 100W what is the voltage? if you work with 60V it would be hard. if you work with 12V it would be easy. With 100W, at 12V, 100÷12=8.33A so you need 12V 10A and do the same way the calculation. I have done a lot or reviews, search my channel and I am sure you will find. eBay.com and AliExpress is your source after you know what module you need.
i found out the board you purchased are fake batch , original ones dont have the two heat sinks rather it has a silver heatsink at the bottom of board, original ones are very good infact
The reference design of this chip is amazing, this is crap.
Every similar module I have ever used was rated at INPUT current, not output current!
With 12 volts in and 24 volts out, (voltage boost mode), you need twice as much input current as output current.
You loaded the unit to 8 or 9 amperes, which would requite an INPUT current of MORE than 16 or 18 amperes!
If you are boosting 12 v to 24 v and limit your input current to 10 amps, your output would be a little less than 5 amps and you would not have seen any smoke.....
In principle for power supply the main rating is about output. not input. when we say 10A 12V it means the output. Based on this people buy them and if they can't offer 10A, they should have protection or burn. Input current is a parameter which should be mentioned in the specs. but no in the main title of the product.
@@robojax
That's what I thought too, and learned the hard way;..... just as you will...!
Boost inverters are rated as input voltage times maximum input current = max watts out.
A 1200 watt 10 amp boost inverter is only rated at 120 watts at 12 vdc input
And only 50 watts at 5 vdc input.......
You need to learn how to read the fine print.
Worse yet, the current limiter on many of the boost converters will not work when
they are being used to charge a battery!
@@robojax 4 some reason ur other comments just doesn't add up 2 this so ur dat typ of guy
I just burn my lct after 8 years, cause i do like you do..
yes. I put that in the title "2 module failed".
@@robojax yup, thats modul will be failed if i set current output more than manufacture notification is 10A, 12Vdc or 120watt
Goodstuff.
I bought one , while anjusting output voltage , the Two output mosfet Smoked , and the module just died after that xD
If you read the manual you would know that you can't draw near 140 watts especially as you were not fans, RTFM
it is not about the manual. it is about the claim on eBay, Amazon and AliExpress where they cheat people and cliam huge amout of current or power. So I try to help people know this module can't do it at that value.
И да - подавать на ВХОД 15.6А и УДИВЛЯТЬСЯ, что 15А предохранитель сгорел? Ну ок. Отличный из вас инженер...
Может вы не заметили предохранителя? Или не он сгорел?
К слову - на данный модуль номинальный входной ток - 10А! И ОБЩАЯ мощность 80Вт. Вы превысили все пределы почти в два раза и удивляетесь, что оно сгорело? Реально?
дядя, купите себе керамические отвёртки. Это чтоб ваши "модули" ВНЕЗАПНО не сгорали! Я сбился со счёта, сколько раз у вас соскользнула отвёртка!!!
below 10V the undervolt protection works very unreliable in the modules i bought. Otherwise I have no complains.
Anyone else has the same problem?
so the fuse plays no role?
yes did not help.
There is I more module on Ali Express at zqc store it is also a boost buck converter priced 312.93 Paisa and plus shipping of 345.09 Paisa Indian rupees kindly request to check that as well thanks have a good day allah hafiz
Thanks. Please post the link here.
👍⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
😊
팔면 안되는 물건이라고 생각한다
Robohejter ??? :-))))
What is the Alternative?
very hard to say.
Please suggest me as soon as possible.
if you got it from China, then you are done. they will ask you to ship it back and shipping will cost more than the module.
@@robojax fabulous 🥲
Why have you bridged out the fuse, you really haven't got a clue what your doing.
"bridged out the fules" now I have no clue. LOL
Far too much equipment and not enough brains. Go to a basic multi meter and learn how to use it!
Are you okay?
I don't buy module I built my own
Good for you. Very had and time consuming, but the results shold be exactly as expected if you know how to do it.
@@robojax Yeah I don't get the blow issues all topology is calculated and tested before I put my designs on the market in my country I use only semiconductor brand in ic and hy4008 fet ior ight for high current and low losses in heating like what I see on the modules you testing smoking if the heat sink in tin and small the mosfet has too much heating building up around the dye why the dye blow out and shorted making smoke or the fet current rating is 7 amp,I work with mains voltage 400dc and I built a test circuit for fet to test current rating and voltage rating before I add to pcb running a business in my current is very hard to mess up paying back customers and ruin my business so I have to test fully
This trashy module is not working
indeed. I wasted money on more than one module. I can't believe sill people become victim of this scam. You can't return it to China as they will ask you to payh for the shipping to ship it back. so you are scammed.