A common misconception is that nickel makes a darker tone. The 8D and similar horns sound “darker” because of their construction; in particular, they have a wide bell throat. Nickel silver produces a “brighter” sound than yellow or gold brass and is used in combination with the wide bell taper to prevent them from going excessively “dark”.
This is an excellent point. I learned this recently with the Holton H179/180/181. Nickel does seem to add some “bite” to the sound at louder dynamics, whereas the higher-copper alloys subtract some. I would love to try a yellow brass 28D someday and see how that behaves in relation to the 8D-perhaps it would actually be a little too dark.
@@SamuelPlaysBrassYou know, there's also the 8DY with a yellow brass bell, first branch, and lead pipe, and the 8DR with rose brass. I have an 8DRS myself.
There are cheaper double horns for sale, say like 1500 euro. I wonder if it could be better to choose a model made in mainly red copper. This could make it too dark but a bright, yet cheap sound is perhaps even worse, to listen too??
Some 8Ds are notorious for having the Bb third valve slide too long. Generally, you want that one pushed all the way in. I have a 1963 C Series. It slots well. The valves are never a problem.
I do keep mine pushed in nowadays but I haven’t noticed it sitting flat, luckily. T3 is still a viable alternate to T12 on my horn. I have definitely played some horns where T3 is flat, now that you mention it.
Which era of Conn 8d did you play? Looks like an Eastlake or an Albine to me. All three generations are known for different playing characteristics though.
@@SamuelPlaysBrassI'm actually considering getting an Abilene 8D (I'm a beginner), but there's so many on the internet saying to stay away from them. Do you have any thoughts on Abilene vs Elkhart vs Eastlake?
A vintage in theory might have been superior at the time of construction. But there are risks with older horns too, such as compression loss that requires a full rotor rebuild. Don’t buy anything you can’t return. If you buy an old horn, I would immediately take it to a shop for a cleaning / inspection so they can take the rotors apart and see what condition they are in. If the rotors are shot, just return it, unless you want to pay thousands for a rebuild. If a horn is over 30 years old and has never had a rebuild, be wary. Buying vintage horns is not like buying vintage trumpets. Rotary valves require tight tolerances. I originally bought an Elkhart 6D but the rotors were toast and I returned it. I ended up buying a new Yamaha 671D instead. You can buy older horns, but be diligent and prepared to have it inspected and returned if needed.
I am as trumpet player now studying too in French Horn, on my own. The low register is the hardest for now. Also when I need to play a note, I have no idea where that note lies. So I press then 2-3 and hit E-flat, A flat or perhaps even C. "Once I know where I am", I can play. Surprisingly, even on the Bb horn side, I still don't know where the notes are. The transition to C, D and Eb trumpets is easier.
It takes time to develop the low range. Some people advocate playing low and LOUD initially to help “break in” the notes. Most people have a totally different embouchure just for the low range. And yeah, it can take awhile to learn what note you’re on. It’s a lower instrument than the trumpet, so I often was playing much too high. I think French horn has made me a better brass player because it really requires you to know in your head what the note you are about to play will sound like. Check out The Art of French Horn Playing by Farkas. It’s helpful imo. I also keep a laminated copy of the fingering chart in my music folder as a reference, which is handy.
I would use the ACB doubler. It sounds the same as the getzen and you use the trigger well instead of the fourth valve. It seems to play well also with the added savings you come out ahead.
See if you can guess the piece at 2:48-I’ll be releasing a big multitrack project on it next week and showing you all the new horn... 😉
Wasn't that excerpt from Star Wars?
@@caseydesrosiers2858 Compser: yes! Franchise: not quite...
Only less than a year? I wouldn’t have guessed by the quality of tone, awesome job!
Thanks Albert! Just doing my best one day at a time.
A common misconception is that nickel makes a darker tone. The 8D and similar horns sound “darker” because of their construction; in particular, they have a wide bell throat. Nickel silver produces a “brighter” sound than yellow or gold brass and is used in combination with the wide bell taper to prevent them from going excessively “dark”.
This is an excellent point. I learned this recently with the Holton H179/180/181. Nickel does seem to add some “bite” to the sound at louder dynamics, whereas the higher-copper alloys subtract some. I would love to try a yellow brass 28D someday and see how that behaves in relation to the 8D-perhaps it would actually be a little too dark.
@@SamuelPlaysBrassYou know, there's also the 8DY with a yellow brass bell, first branch, and lead pipe, and the 8DR with rose brass. I have an 8DRS myself.
There are cheaper double horns for sale, say like 1500 euro. I wonder if it could be better to choose a model made in mainly red copper. This could make it too dark but a bright, yet cheap sound is perhaps even worse, to listen too??
Some 8Ds are notorious for having the Bb third valve slide too long. Generally, you want that one pushed all the way in. I have a 1963 C Series. It slots well. The valves are never a problem.
I do keep mine pushed in nowadays but I haven’t noticed it sitting flat, luckily. T3 is still a viable alternate to T12 on my horn. I have definitely played some horns where T3 is flat, now that you mention it.
Which era of Conn 8d did you play? Looks like an Eastlake or an Albine to me. All three generations are known for different playing characteristics though.
This one was an Abilene.
@@SamuelPlaysBrassI'm actually considering getting an Abilene 8D (I'm a beginner), but there's so many on the internet saying to stay away from them. Do you have any thoughts on Abilene vs Elkhart vs Eastlake?
A vintage in theory might have been superior at the time of construction. But there are risks with older horns too, such as compression loss that requires a full rotor rebuild. Don’t buy anything you can’t return. If you buy an old horn, I would immediately take it to a shop for a cleaning / inspection so they can take the rotors apart and see what condition they are in. If the rotors are shot, just return it, unless you want to pay thousands for a rebuild. If a horn is over 30 years old and has never had a rebuild, be wary. Buying vintage horns is not like buying vintage trumpets. Rotary valves require tight tolerances. I originally bought an Elkhart 6D but the rotors were toast and I returned it. I ended up buying a new Yamaha 671D instead. You can buy older horns, but be diligent and prepared to have it inspected and returned if needed.
Absolutely great Samuel!😁👍👏👏👏👏
Thanks Peter!
You're so welcome Samuel!😁😁👍
I am as trumpet player now studying too in French Horn, on my own. The low register is the hardest for now. Also when I need to play a note, I have no idea where that note lies. So I press then 2-3 and hit E-flat, A flat or perhaps even C. "Once I know where I am", I can play. Surprisingly, even on the Bb horn side, I still don't know where the notes are. The transition to C, D and Eb trumpets is easier.
It takes time to develop the low range. Some people advocate playing low and LOUD initially to help “break in” the notes. Most people have a totally different embouchure just for the low range. And yeah, it can take awhile to learn what note you’re on. It’s a lower instrument than the trumpet, so I often was playing much too high. I think French horn has made me a better brass player because it really requires you to know in your head what the note you are about to play will sound like. Check out The Art of French Horn Playing by Farkas. It’s helpful imo. I also keep a laminated copy of the fingering chart in my music folder as a reference, which is handy.
Well, now you've got them all.
Unfortunately I haven't got this horn right now but I do have another that I'll be showing off this coming week!
I would use the ACB doubler. It sounds the same as the getzen and you use the trigger well instead of the fourth valve. It seems to play well also with the added savings you come out ahead.
Wrong video, I’m afraid. I ended up getting the Getzen. Total loss was very minimal after selling the doubler and I liked the Getzen’s tone more.