Thank you so much for the video. Although it took me 3 tries to get it right, I would always go back to your video to see what I was doing wrong. I did not have a brass drift to "pound" the internal joint part off but did have a copper mallet which worked great getting it apart and then pounding back together. Then I found that I put the cage in the tulip backwards so the next time, used a Pitman Arm puller that worked slick....no pounding...just a wrench to tighten the center bolt. Thanks again. p.s. I see the comment below on the steering rack bushings. That job is a bear but with the help of a long bolt, which I used to make a "press" like device, finally got it done.
David Lu no problem. I’m not a pro, I just like saving money. It wasn’t hard. He hardest part for me was removing the axle, but once I pulled off the spindle it was a steering straight shot.
The outer joint definitely comes apart. You need to clamp the center of the axle in a vice and use a long brass drift to hammer the spider gear down the shaft. It's a pain in the arse but not removing it is a bit half arsed.
Great job man, I always love doing my own maintenance when I can. You mentioned you have loose steering, you may want to change out the bushings in your steering rack. I just ordered some polyurethane bushings for my steering and about to tackle that this weekend.
Thank you for documenting this! Ive been looking for a suppliment to the mud write-ups forever and stumbled on this. Late this next summer i plan on lifting my 100 and i know my cv's need this for preventative maintenance. How did it turn out? Any lessons learned?
Dan Perrotta it wasn’t as hard as I thought. Just dirty now I know why shops prefer to just swap out the axle. I had a hard time pulling the cv with rotor in Way. So once I popped the lower ball joint I had a straight shot out. It was also pretty easy to pop back in. I pushed and turned at same time. I went on a light trail the next day, it was about 150 miles and no leaks. Just need to fix my other steering issues.
I used similar clamps for a couple of years and they just ripped my boots on both sides, it's possible I torqued them down too much so watch out for that.
Thank you so much for the video. Although it took me 3 tries to get it right, I would always go back to your video to see what I was doing wrong. I did not have a brass drift to "pound" the internal joint part off but did have a copper mallet which worked great getting it apart and then pounding back together. Then I found that I put the cage in the tulip backwards so the next time, used a Pitman Arm puller that worked slick....no pounding...just a wrench to tighten the center bolt.
Thanks again.
p.s. I see the comment below on the steering rack bushings. That job is a bear but with the help of a long bolt, which I used to make a "press" like device, finally got it done.
Glad it helped. I only did one side and just clamped the other. But good thing I recorded so I can remember what to do on other side.
This is fantastic. The only video I’ve been able to find on this year land cruiser lx470. Thanks for doing this
David Lu no problem. I’m not a pro, I just like saving money. It wasn’t hard.
He hardest part for me was removing the axle, but once I pulled off the spindle it was a steering straight shot.
The outer joint definitely comes apart. You need to clamp the center of the axle in a vice and use a long brass drift to hammer the spider gear down the shaft. It's a pain in the arse but not removing it is a bit half arsed.
I rebooted the CV shaft and I didnt know the existence of the snap ring until I found it yesterday :D
What errands did you have to run? Want to tell us more about that? Now that you mention it, we're curious.
Love this! Would love to have seen a list of part numbers! This makes me super confident for my 2000 Land Cruiser though!
Great job man, I always love doing my own maintenance when I can. You mentioned you have loose steering, you may want to change out the bushings in your steering rack. I just ordered some polyurethane bushings for my steering and about to tackle that this weekend.
The outer comes apart you just have to use a hammer and brass punch to pound it off, there is a circlip holding it in
How do you pound off a circlip?
Thank you for documenting this! Ive been looking for a suppliment to the mud write-ups forever and stumbled on this. Late this next summer i plan on lifting my 100 and i know my cv's need this for preventative maintenance. How did it turn out? Any lessons learned?
Dan Perrotta it wasn’t as hard as I thought.
Just dirty now I know why shops prefer to just swap out the axle.
I had a hard time pulling the cv with rotor in Way. So once I popped the lower ball joint I had a straight shot out.
It was also pretty easy to pop back in.
I pushed and turned at same time.
I went on a light trail the next day, it was about 150 miles and no leaks.
Just need to fix my other steering issues.
If you lift your 100 I would highly recommend a diff drop. I learned the hard way, mine would eat cv boots up.
good
How have the clamps and the reboot held up? I ordered my boots today.
They’ve been good. I only rebuilt one and added the clamps on Both. So far so good no leaks.
@@flj232 how did you end up pulling the axle out? Did you use a crowbar or just pull on it? Thanks
@@josemeza7002 I think I used combination of crow bar and other tools to get it out. It’s on video it’s been awhile so I can’t remember
How did the screw on clamps hold up? What size did you use?
still haven’t leaked.
I used similar clamps for a couple of years and they just ripped my boots on both sides, it's possible I torqued them down too much so watch out for that.
Great video thanks
good
Size for the tool is 54.😎
I am looking for a tool to open my front lock nut inorder to change my front wheel bearing.😎
54mm