I've watched a lot of videos about how to finish the leather after stamping with a 3d printed stamp and far abs away yours has been the best. Your patches look amazing.
Thanks for sharing! I’m definitely going to try this method, it has great contrast and doesn’t appear to stain the raised portions much. Feibings antiques seem to stain the raised portions more. Do you treat the leather with anything prior to the eco-flo application?
I find that even some of Eco-Flo's antiques stain the raised areas too much. I get really good results with Tan and Briar Brown, so that's what I use most on anything I don't resist.
I apply Feibings Pro Resist after staining. Then I apply the antiquing finish. What I learned from this video is to use something flat to remove the antiquing from the top, leaving the finish in debossed areas.
Antique gives you more contrast between the raised areas in your project (where you wipe it off) and the deeper tooling impressions. Regular dye doesn't give that much contrast between the two areas. Also, antique is thicker (larger molecules) than regular dye. Regular dye will stain everything, whereas antique will only stain areas that have not been "resisted".
Helllo, did you stitch with a sewing machine the corners or the leather stitcher, would you mind sharing where you purchased the patches please, thanks
Hi Ann. I make these patches myself out of vegetable tanned leather. Then I 3d print the stamps to stamp the image onto the patches. And I hand stitch the patches at the corners (I use double sided tape first to position them before punching the holes).
@@annjohnson5699 the standard patches are 3 1/2" x 2 1/4". I sell the blank ones for $2.50 each including rounded corners if you want that. It gets a bit cheaper if you buy 20 or more. Shipping is extra.
I've watched a lot of videos about how to finish the leather after stamping with a 3d printed stamp and far abs away yours has been the best. Your patches look amazing.
Thanks!
Even prior to the secondary process, that looks awesome
Very informative!
Thanks for sharing!
I’m definitely going to try this method, it has great contrast and doesn’t appear to stain the raised portions much.
Feibings antiques seem to stain the raised portions more.
Do you treat the leather with anything prior to the eco-flo application?
I find that even some of Eco-Flo's antiques stain the raised areas too much. I get really good results with Tan and Briar Brown, so that's what I use most on anything I don't resist.
I apply Feibings Pro Resist after staining. Then I apply the antiquing finish. What I learned from this video is to use something flat to remove the antiquing from the top, leaving the finish in debossed areas.
whwats the difference between the gel dye and the other Eco Flo dye?
Antique gives you more contrast between the raised areas in your project (where you wipe it off) and the deeper tooling impressions. Regular dye doesn't give that much contrast between the two areas. Also, antique is thicker (larger molecules) than regular dye. Regular dye will stain everything, whereas antique will only stain areas that have not been "resisted".
Helllo, did you stitch with a sewing machine the corners or the leather stitcher, would you mind sharing where you purchased the patches please, thanks
Hi Ann. I make these patches myself out of vegetable tanned leather. Then I 3d print the stamps to stamp the image onto the patches. And I hand stitch the patches at the corners (I use double sided tape first to position them before punching the holes).
@@saddlehillsleathercraft Thank you so much for all your help do you ever sell the patches and if so how much
@@annjohnson5699 Are you wanting just the blank patches, or are you talking about finished patches with the logo and staining, etc?
@@saddlehillsleathercraft blanks, please
@@annjohnson5699 the standard patches are 3 1/2" x 2 1/4". I sell the blank ones for $2.50 each including rounded corners if you want that. It gets a bit cheaper if you buy 20 or more. Shipping is extra.
So its also for finishing right?
The Leather Balm at the end is the final finish.
waaay to much gel, its a waste