Love this video. One quick suggestion... you reference the OM-1 as an "APSC" camera multiple times on the video. Perhaps overlaying some text to correct and avoid any confusion.
@@rudigerwolf9626 he referred to the camera as APSC maybe 2 or 3 times while speaking about each sensor size collectively…. Nearly 40 min video and you actually took the time to make that comment. Pretty hard not to understand what he was saying, especially for anyone considering paying $10k for a camera system…
Scott, once again another excellent review that really hones in on what is of most importance to wildlife photographers! This looks like an awesome tool for the right setting and for the right photographer. As we grow older and joints like our backs, wrists, elbows, and shoulders develop orthopedic problems, having a lightweight and smaller system can be extremely helpful.
This is one of the better OM review videos. The setting comments are simply a result of not being familiar with the body/system. This body is simply the most configurable in the entire industry, however can be confusing to figure it all out. The comments on the focus performance is accurate. It’s very sticky, but like everything you need to work out the quirks and how best to live with them. The videos and images on the previous video are very good and a great example of what the system can do. The noise/ low light comments are fair and accurate. With software as DXo and Topaz, as said it really isn’t an issue. What wasn’t really emphasized was the compactness. My kit has 2 bodies, 300f4, 40-150 2.8, 12-40 and 60mm macro. With charger and lightweight carbon tripod, it all fits in a backpack bag that fits in a standard carry on travel bag. No stress about checking the gear when traveling 😊
Funny thing as people get older, they don't want to carry that weight around and therefore, one or the main reason to get into m43rds. I did research and my first camera system I purchased 2.5 years ago was the Om1, the Mzuiko 150-400 pro 4.5 w/tc, a Panasonic Lumix G9 that got upgraded to G9mkii, I had the Olympus 40-150 pro. f2.8 , and the Olympus12-40mm pro 2.8. I took thousands of images and found myself going back to the computer and doing alota of image processing especially around the face and the eyes, an osprey's feet and talons, underneath its wing most of the time was blurry. Too much effort to make the photo look good. So, I went back to the drawing board and did more research and rented a Nikon z8, a Nikkor z 180-600, f5.6-6.3 and a Nikkor z24-120mm s f4. I went to the same locations as before and took both systems along, the Olympus gear and the Nikon rental gear for two weeks. First week shooting was to tweek and dial in the Nikon to my style of shooting and the second week shot identical images of perched birds with both systems so I can later compare back home in the computer. I shot birds in flight for IQ, wildlife of the 4-legged kind, Landscapes in beautiful reflection locations eta. I processed the thousands and thousands of images from both systems, and had my non photographer wife critique the images, I would not tell her from which camera the images came from. You probably know where this story is going but I sold or traded ""All" of my Olympus gear and my brand-new Panasonic body G9mkii for 2 Nikon z8s, and the same two lens that I rented. After talking to my wife and getting her opinion I decided to take the financial hit. Man did that hurt! But in the end IQ is outstanding now, image processing in lightroom is a couple of tweeks and done. Very little sharpening and noise reduction or touching up the eyes or talons is not necessary. My wildlife and my landscape shots have little to no noise even shooting in low light with a starting AP of f5.6 and f4. I doubt that I will add any more gear for now, I rather use those funds for travel and put the Nikon to work. As far as weight it's not bad to carry. Obviously, the Olympus Om1 with the 150-400 was lighter to carry than the Nikon z8 with the 180-600, you do get more reach with the Olympus 150-400, maxed out to 1000mm (full frame equivalent) with the TC engaged but the IQ wasn't there. Even in shorter focal lengths, the Nikon would have the better IQ. If I wasn't into image processing, I would have never sold my Olympus gear because I would have accepted the image as it was and just use a little sharpening and noise reduction and call it a day. I'm not a pro nor do I want to be. I just want to push my images to its max and have that pro-look. Anyways that's my take with using micro 43rds. And BTW I started shooting videos now, that switch on the Nikon from stills to video is a game changer for me with the settings for stills and video ready to go. Hope I did not derail your video on the Olympus but after watching again, it looked like you weren't totally convinced it was the perfect system, either.
Great story. Love it. And I will have to say shooting Canon forever and now shooting Nikon alongside it, I get more right in camera with my Nikon gear. The colors are so good. And the Bird AF is amazing now
@@WILDALASKA Thats great to know because I almost chose Cannon only because they are #1 in sales, but their lenes never convinced me to jump in. Yes, Bird AF is very good, the first Nikon Z8 I bought, I shot birds for almost a month and never realized I was shooting with old firmware 1.0 in animal mode, but still my hit rate was very good. Anyways thanks again for your videos, I shoot mainly in wide af, single point af, when needed and triggered to front button and 3D AF on the lower front button with a very good hit rate above 90%.
I love the OM 1 as an enthusiast camera. Has its limitations, but if you don’t earn a living with it it gives people access to a lot of tools for very little money in comparison. Combined with the 300mm f4 Is a great package. Also you can set the lever right of the evf up to switch between 2 preprogrammed focus modes.
yes its a good camera. And as I stated in the video I had buttons set to change the focus modes of the AF-on button but you need a second focus button to instantly flip between single point and auto detect which the camera does not have the ability to do.
I'm not sure why people keep repeating the nonsense about "if you don't earn a living with it...". I recently retired from professional work, and earned a good living from shooting weddings, portraits, and corporate events/conferences -- using nothing but Olympus digital cameras/lenses for quite a few years - never, ever had a dissatisfied client. Yes, there are some types of jobs that might require 35mm FF, but there are jobs where that is inadequate, and medium format or large format is required. In regard to professional wildlife/nature photography, look at the work of people like Andy Rouse, or Peter Bambousek -- they don't seem to have a problem.
@@WILDALASKA first of all thanks for a great video and taking the time to respond. About the af-setup custom ability well guess that depends on how many alternatives you want to have access to on one button. If you’re looking for a fast switch to single point af, like you say in the video, you don’t have to click any button at all. Just assign this to the function lever and flip it with your thumb and you’re there. Can’t see how moving your thumb off the af-on button for a split second can be more cumbersome than clicking a dedicated custom button. But that’s me and I shoot Nikon as well although not the Z9 or Z8 but the D500 had a similar option, and I prefer the way the OM-1 deals with this “issue” compared the D500. The OM-1 actually gives you at least one another way to deal with it. If you shoot in A, S or M mode you can put access to the four custom modes C1, C2 etc) on dedicated buttons. The downside of this is that you have to remember which button you dedicated to which custom mode, but lets say you only really need one extra af-setup (besides you’re preferred starting one and the one on your lever switch) you can have the third one (C1 for instance) on a dedicated button that only requires a single click. This is also the fastest way I have found to get to different drive modes like pre-capture for instance.
Thanks for the video Scott. Glad you got a chance to use this set up and you give a fair review. I've got this camera, (not the lens, which I covet), as well as a canon R5 and R7. I agree with your pros for a crop-sensor cameras (lighter body and lenses), and this is a good one, with a little more crop than Nikon, Canon, Sony APSC. My primary lens is the older 300 f4 prime, which gives me an effective focal length of 600 mm and great weather sealing, and I also have the affordable Olympus 100-400 zoom. Either set up fits nicely in a seat bag on my bike, and is an easy carry for long hikes and hand holding. It will probably be my go to camera for travel family trips, where i sneak off for a few side adventures (The R7 with RF 100-400 is great hand hold long carry too, though the autofocus with that set up is not as good; but it is not as expensive either). The other reason I got the OM set up is for the pro(pre)-capture. I love it. So much easier to capture birds exiting a perch. All that said, I still like the R5 with the RF100-500 better if I'm not hauling it around on my bike, and when I'm not too concerned about missing pro-capture. If I can get close and fill the frame the detail is definitely better, and it's not to heavy to hand-hold with the RF100-500, though I miss f4 at the long end. Really looking forward to the r5ii, which has pre-capture, and will probably get it in a couple of months, but I think the OM-1 MK II will continue to be my go to in a lot of situations.
I use the OM1-M2. I setup the different focusing methods to a custom function and then assign that custom function to a button. This gives me the options I need.
I was estonished that OM didn't implement a way to switch focus mode, but the way you do it looks like on my Sony on which I set the push button on the zoom to temporarily switch to high speed, burst mode, multizone autofocus when I see a BiF, then release the button to go back to my normal speed/ISO/spot focus mode.
Two button AF, you could have simply set different AF in Fn1 and Fn2, then just flip the switch with your thumb to toggle between AF modes back and forth.
thanks for the input, but once again we are flipping switches and even that does the same thing as one button. doesn't solve the issue for dual button focus.
Yes I stated that by having a button to switch modes on , but its. a 2 button change, one for mode one for area. I think 80% if the first 2 weeks I tried all kinds of things I came up with and the engineers. Fact is 2 button focus types is much more desirable for how I shoot
@@WILDALASKAYou’ve set this up incorrectly. There is a function switch on the back of the camera to the left of the back button focus button. With this you can set it to do exactly as you described and go from CAF,whole screen to SAF, single point with the flick of the switch. This is exactly how mine is setup. All without taking your eye off the view finder. You can program it to any action you’d like, as with all of the buttons on the body.
@davidfettback3139 missed your comment and added the same one. I also have FN1 set to 'home AF' with all points and the lever plus that cover all my shooting scenarios. I also have custom modes for ProCap and continuous high, but as pointed out in the video, it's annoying that you need to wait for the buffer to fully flush to switch between them.
something I would like to point out however, after using both this OM-1 combo, the Nikon 200-600 and the canon 200-800 combos, I can say that the oly 150-400 f4.5 takes in less light than the others. Roughly 1 stop less. which makes it equal to a f6.3. And since the sensor is smaller that too requires more light. Roughly another f stop if I remember correctly. AND the canon R3's sensor is roghly 2 times better at handeling iso noise. All this combined made me sell the OM-1 + 150-400 for a Canon R3 + 200-800. This is of course only my opinion, and correct me if I'm wrong.
I forget to mention when I initially commented on this idea that both the OM-1 and the OM-1ii have live highlight and shadow alerts. I find it very helpful for white birds.
After Nikon, then Fujifilm for years, I’m back to my old Olympus M43 bodies and a pocket full of primes. Mostly wide angle on my little PEN bodies. Such a joy. 💁🏻♀️💕 Plus my $ 75. super lightweight Olympus 40-150mm when I need some reach.
How about using 2 custom modes. Have one setup for single point, and a second set for multipoint. One click of the wheel to change between the two modes (Cutom Modes C1-C4). I see the same issues with white birds in Florida. Mostly Egrets, Ibis, and Wood Storks. Eagles are a bit few and far between in South Florida, but a few are around. I have the other 100-400 and the 150-600, both of which provide a nice reach. I'd really like to see an OM 70-200 F2.8 for places that are a bit cozier.
Great job Scott! I have been using the OM-1 for a couple of years after moving from Canon. I have enjoyed using it and have no regrets. I mostly use the 300mm F4 Pro. I use the function lever to change between C-AF and S-AF with a single point. I have subject detection on the ISO button but I have found that even when in single point S-AF that I rarely have to turn off subject detection. It works even through very thick brush. It is a bit counter intuitive but works great. I did buy the OM-1 Mk 2 after it was released. I used it for a week and then returned it. I felt that the AF was more inconsistent than the OM-1. Like you I don’t use the graduated ND so while I think it’s cool to have it doesn’t matter for my use case. I also use Topaz Photo AI to process most of my photos. I get great results and generally upscale everything 2X. I would be interested in seeing your review of the lens. Now they are easier to come by so I might still pick one up.
I also used Om-1 II for weeks taking pictures of bald eagles in flight and was very upset with the autofocus performance (given all the hype), which appeared to be less consistent compared to OM-1 when the background was changing and complex. It worked a bit better with less pulsation for stationary subjects though
I am not sure about your comments on "light gathering" because of the 4/3 sensor. A bigger area photo cell for example will generate more electricity but a camera sensor will receive exactly the same amount of light per unit area as a larger sensor. PIxel pitch would be an issue.
@@WILDALASKA this is only meaningful if the two cameras have the same number of megapixels. If both are 20MP, for example, then the MFT will have 1/4 of the light hitting each sensor. However, if the FF is, for example, 80MP, then the light gathering per-pixel is exactly the same, and the pixel size (pixel pitch) is exactly the same. You just have fewer pixels in the MFT.
Thank you for your fantastic in depth look at this one. As a Canon R7 & RF100-500mm bird nut I couldn't help watching and constantly comparing because they'd be quite close for ultimate reach vs shy birds. R7 kit: 500mm x 1.6 => 800mm "equiv" / OM1 kit: 500mm x 2 =>1000mm. But it's closer than that as the R7 sensor is approx 32mp vs OM 20mp. Adjust for that and you probably have almost identical resolving power. I'd have to stick with my R7 since I already have it and love it and the awesome lens. Would still love trying the OM1ii though. So thanks for showing us and sharing your thoughts so honestly.
First of all I do love your channel. When you make a video I always watch it. And you once again made another great video. But I have to comment that 800mm at f9 sounds really familiar. Canon R8 paired with rf 200-800mm. About $3200 dollars. Om1 MK2 paired with professional level lens you were using for the video. Close to 10000 dollars. Do you see a big difference in image quality. It is a big difference in cost.
Full frame will always out perform 4/3 in light and DoF so yes there is a difference. Weight is almost the same also. Lot of folks would use the 300 Om System lens so it would have a higher weight and price savings vs what I was using. I just wanted to test the best of the best from Om Systems. And I get where you are coming from but I didn't want to get into that too much in the video.
thank you for making this very useful and informative video. I think the Om-1MK II does very well compared to the full frame and megapixel cameras. white birds pose quite a challenge for almost all cameras. the best you can do is slightly underexpose. The AF not working properly is something that the engineers at OM system have to solve. The last thing you want is a malfunctioning AF. That's why you miss beautiful moments that you don't want to miss. The lenses of Olympus lenses belong to the TOP world. now a camera with a good and fast-working AF system.🙏
Some great thoughts, but it sounds you need to learn how to use the lever next to AF-on button. You set a heap of AF settings (size of area, single shot or continuous, sticky/flexible etc) and you flick between them without taking the eye off the viewfinder. You can also add a third setting called home AF to another function button, and e.g. set the AF zone to full sensor for birds and flight.
Thanks Scott. It was so great to hear your insights on this. I hope the folks at OM take your suggestions to heart. The only con I don’t share is with the whites. With the Live Highlights alerts turned on, the whites turn red when the highlights are being blown out, so I rarely miss an exposure. But I certainly agree with all your other pros and cons. Great job!
Yes I turned that one but its more distracting to me during shooting than helpful. Again a me thing. Just wish I knew why it looks that way on whites. It's a tick tag thing though. And thank you is much for the super thanks.
Thanks for your objective impressions of this system. I would like to correct a couple issues that are incorrect, and these relate mostly to your lack of familiarity with the camera and lens. First, the issue you brought up about metering for highlights can be easily dealt with by simply using the Highlight/Shadow 'blinkies' that you can turn on or off in the menus. If you have that feature activated, it will clearly show any highlights that are clipping by a flashing red area in the viewfinder -- you can simply adjust exposure comp to eliminate those. Second, you made the claim that you cannot set two buttons to change AF focus area/pattern. This is not correct, if I understand you correctly. You can easily assign any set of shooting parameters, including AF Target area and Subject Detection to one of 4 Custom Settings on the Mode Dial, and then assign a button to simply toggle that Custom Setting on or off. I have my OM-1 set up this way -- I have my 'bird on a stick' settings in C1 and have my 'AEL' Button programmed to select that, and I have my 'bird in flight' settings assigned to C2 and have my 'AF-ON' Button programmed to select that. So if I'm shooting a bird sitting on a branch and think he's going to fly off, I can simply press my 'AF-ON' Button, and bang, I'm instantly in a totally different set of shooting parameters including Pro Capture, press it again and I'm back to 'bird on a stick'. In addition, if you are using any of the Olympus/OM Pro lenses, such as the 150-400mm in this video, there are 'L-fn' buttons on the lens that can be programmed to change AF Target Mode. Hope this helps. Here is a good article on the AF system flexibility: learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/basics-of-photography/how-to-turn-autofocus-from-your-enemy-to-your
Once again you are clicking more than one button to do something that should be just ONE button. One for auto, one for single and not OTHER clicking around. I was in close contact with OM System and their engineers the entire time during testing the camera. We had the 'correct' settings and tried numerous different things during testing to adjust a lot of items we came across during our testing. And I should not need blinkies or highlight alerts as I haven't needed it on any other cameras to see that exposure. Again as I stated in the video it may be a me thing of not being able to see that.
@@WILDALASKA Either you don't understand me, or I don't understand you. I understand you to say the you want to be able to set two buttons to select between C-AF + tracking (what you call 'Auto') and S-AF. If that is correct, then the set up process I suggested will do that with one button press -- you do not need two buttons. It's simply a matter of setting up the camera one time. You simply set your camera to all the settings you would use to capture a bird in flight, and then simply save those settings to a Custom Setting like 'C1' it stays there until you reset 'C1' -- even if you change settings while shooting and turn the camera off. When you turn the camera back on, all your original 'C1' settings will be there. Then you simply program a button, like the 'AEL' button to select 'C1' -- you're done. If you are out shooting a bird on a branch in S-AF Mode, 200 ISO, Aperture Priority, etc. and you want to shoot a bird in flight, all you do is press one button -- the 'AEL' button and all of your settings change to BIF mode (e.g. C-AF+Tracking, Auto ISO, Shutter Priority, Burst Mode, etc. -- whatever your normal BIF settings would be.) -- one button, one press. To return to the bird on a branch settings you simply press the 'AEL' button again and your settings revert to what you originally were shooting at. I'm not sure how this could be any simpler, because there are substantial differences in preferred setting between the two types of shooting, and with this method you are switching all those settings with one button press and can simply tweak as needed.
It may be how your AF was set up. The AF on the OM-1 MkII is better than my R5. I have both. The MkI is about the same as the R5. When my R5MkII gets here it will be an interesting comparison. I don't get the the jumpy focus that you say you had (stills).
I totally disagree. the r5 has little to no drift. It's night and day. I even had the OM System engineers helping with the AF drift issues. So I think we covered all the correct or useful settings.
Nice review, thanks. You are the first one mentioning about the issue with the viewfinder; hopefully OM Systems will take a note. I also have the OM-1 and OM-1 II since they were released and have been using it with 300 mf4 and 150-400 mmF4.5 for wildlife, primarily birds. I take lots of pictures of bald eagles in flight. I completely agree with you remarks regarding the viewfinder behavior in certain situations, which can be very frustrating. I also agree that the autofocus tracking for subjects in flight is good, but at least 1-2 generations behind the Sony (I also use Sony). For the steady subjects the autofocus is comparable. This system works best when there is lots of light, otherwise using DXO noise reduction is almost a must.
The OM system is a curiosity for me. I am surprised at the cost. I’ve shot with the M4/3 Panasonic G9 and disliked the IQ with many soft shots. Frankly, I got frustrated pretty quickly and sold it for the full frame R5 and RF 100-500. Wow, what a difference in quality and keeper rate. Weight is still good for my rig. I shoot mostly birds, so the ability to crop is important to me. However, I’m waiting for the R7ii, to try a cropped APSC sensor with my lens. APSC seems to be a good middle ground sensor. I’m looking forward to what Canon will release in 2025!
Fantastic review, one of the best listing out pros and cons! You are not wrong on the EVF. But not sure if you had used HL/SD alert. It can be set up easily. Regarding AF drifting, I believe you can prioritize AF box to eliminate the drift or when you are dealing with multiple subject in the same frame. It will allow you to pick the one that AF box is placed over without it jumping around. Regarding multiple focus buttons, yes, it is different. I think you can overcome this by using the FN lever. You would set one for CAF and one for SAF. On the SAF, you would set it with single target point. You could assign a button for subject detection and disable/enable it on the fly. You can also set up how SAF focus differently as well. Yes, as we get older or having health issue, either we take the compromise and keep on shooting or call it the end! My buddy adopted OM1.2 with 150-400mm because he could not longer handle his R5 with 600mm F4 lenses. One thing I thought bothering me and my friend is the lack of the third wheel. My buddy wish OM has it just like this Canon. It makes adjusting EC a lot easier!
Thanks for the info and yes we tried all those fixes/tricks when testing out the rig. The rig is lighter but I think the r7 with the 200-800 produces about the same features and reach and weight. 3rd wheel would be nice, but I just kept the wheels to ISO and Shutter and left my aperture wide open
@@WILDALASKA The issue with R7 would be the buffer making that high FPS not practical to use. Also, that 200-800 lens would be pretty much useless when shooting within 30mins sunrise/sunset, time I and my buddy love to shoot owls. We are using 300mm F4 and 200mm F2.8 lenses during those hours. The reach usually never our issue but the light to retain enough SS to freeze owls in flight with reasonable ISO. Also, R7 with the 200-800 lens would fail to acquire focus in such dim condition. We did try. Again, we have shot with Canon for years. Now that we tried different format, there are pros and cons to each system.
Re the drift? Assuming it occurred when the camera was set in one of the animals or bird detection methods modes, did you try disabling this and simply using a small focus point? I use the Mk 1 and particularly in animal mode If I experience this I change to a single point and just rely on continuous autofocus without tracking. Immediately I took delivery of the camera I also created a vey fine 1x1 single focus point. It’s much better then the supplied small setting. Also I generally avoid the tracking option.
Good review and Great Comparison!!! As far as focus modes between BIF and Perched birds, besides changing the focus points and turning off subject detect, I also want to switch to apature priority with a low fixed ISO to reduce the noise. Using custom modes and assigning those modes to buttons works perfectly for the scenario you mention in the video.
@@WILDALASKA However, I do agree with you that having dual fucus buttons that could be set up for different focusing modes would make changing modes instantaneous without the second or so delay of changing custom modes.
Ok, one more... your comments on light gathering is way different than my experience!. I have both full frame and the OM-1. For any given scene, I shoot exactly the same ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed to get the same exposed image. So the segment on light gathering capability and "ISO 800 is really ISO 3200 on full frame" is questionable, in my opinion. In fact, I just took out my full frame and OM-1. Took exactly the same image at 24mm using the same settings for ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture. Images are exposed the same. What were your settings for the gull image that was taken both with full frame and OM-1? WRT the Aperture and DOF.. yes, at the same location the 4/3 sensor depth of field is deeper than an equivalent full frame camera. Stabilization and weather sealing is terrific. WRT to autofocus, the function lever is specifically designed to switch between two different types of focus. Fn Lever Settings, Mode 2 switches "AF mode/AT target mode/AF target point" to accomplish exactly what you described...with one flick I can go from large auto to small manual... or whatever you want as your two AF approaches. Is this not what you were trying to accomplish? Sounds like you talked with the engineers, so I'm confused on what you are trying to accomplish and why the Fn Lever does not meet your requirements. DXO makes a huge difference. WRT AF locking, did you try using AF Sensitivity as an adjustment. It is not as good as the Sony A1...but we are also comparing a $5,000 camera to a $2,300 camera. Thanks for doing this video. Really appreciate it. Gave me some things to consider. BTW, heading up to Kodiak in two weeks. Really appreciate your channel.
The ISO 800, ISO 3200 comparison comes down to the total light used to make the image. Let's use your m43 and full-frame kits to illustrate. Suppose you setup your m43 kit on a tripod at 100mm, f/4, 1/100-second. The ISO doesn't matter. Pick whichever ISO produces an image having a pleasing lightness. Make a photo. Next, mount your full-frame kit to the tripod. The goal will be to make the same photo you just made with the m43 system. You'll be at 200mm focal length to get the same framing. You'll use a 1/100 shutter speed to render movement in the frame the same. Now, comes the part that can get overlooked. The m43 kit was at 1/100, f/4. The full-frame kit needs to be at 1/100, f/8 to make the same photo. The full-frame kit at 200mm, f/8 makes a photo having the same framing and depth of field as a m43 system at 100mm, f/4. We know this because the size of the lens's entrance pupil - its aperture - determines depth of field. A 100mm, f/4 lens has a (100mm/4=25mm) 25mm entrance pupil. A 200mm, f/8 lens has (200mm/8=25mm) the same 25mm entrance pupil. Since the entrance pupils are the same size, the total light delivered to the sensors will also be the same. That means the photos will have the same noise visibility. Doubling the m43 focal length and f-stop gives you the focal length and f-stop a full-frame system needs to make the same photo. The last piece of the puzzle is image lightness. If we want to make the same photo with both cameras, they need to have the same lightness. That's where ISO enters the picture. ISO is used to manage image lightness. That's it's job. It's not an exposure setting nor is it a source of noise. ISO establishes a relationship between the exposure used and the final image lightness. This is where the ISO 800, ISO 3200 comparison is explained. Suppose the photo you make with your m43 system is made at 100mm, f/4, 1/100, ISO 800. To make the same photo with your full-frame kit you'll be at 200mm, f/8, 1/100, ISO 3200. Those settings will allow the two different format cameras to make the same photos...photos having the same framing, same depth of field, same detail, same noise visibility, and same lightness. If you try this at home with your gear, you'll see that it works as described.
As the man said: You havent allways got the time to lift your thumb (and by that deactivate AF if you are using the af-on button) then change the lever and then move your thumb back to the af-on button. With two programable AF buttons (for eaxample the index-finger exposure button and the thumb af-on button) you can intantly change between one point common af-c and whole area subject detection). If you don´t realize that you have never tried to photograph flying birds or running mamals in front of different/changing backgrounds.
@@BillFerris What nonsense the whole thing only works if I increase the value to a shallow depth of field. P.S.: Shallow depth of field has not only advantages!
@@BillFerris Bill, thank-you and completely agree. What Scott said is that the M4/3 sensor captures 1/4 of the light that the full frame camera captures, and that therefore you have to increase ISO on the M4/3 camera, 800 becomes 3200. In your example, you show exactly the opposite, ISO 800 on M4/3 becomes ISO 3200 on FF to get an equivalent image. Equivalency between FF and M4/3 is a hotly debated topic covered at length in many You-Tube videos. Bringing up exposure equivalency as one of a few issues with the camera, with only a partial and unclear explanation, may leave an impression that the M4/3 cameras needs 4 times the light, meaning significantly slower shutter, larger aperture, or higher ISO to capture the same image lightness. In my testing, that is not true. The same ISO, shutter speed and aperture generate the same lightness of image (exposure) in either system. Therefore, the camera/lens combination does not capture 1/4 the light of FF. Sensor size does impact total light captured. It does not impact volume of light captured by each pixel. Therefore the elements of the exposure triangle do not need to change to achieve the same lightness of an image. There was no mention of DOF in the light gathering segment. I agree with your example, if you want to capture the exact same image (lightness, DOF, motion stoppage, noise), then the settings do need to be different. But, that was not the point being made in the video.
Thanks! 'personally' I think Bokeh is overrated and way overdone, I don't like obvious blur and prefer detail in the backdrop, unless it is a sky or something with less detail.
Depends on what you are trying to accomplish with your 'art' of the photograph. And I think stated that in the video of everyone has a different want and look.
@@WILDALASKA Yep, sorry, I guess I was being too critical - and not everyone will like everything the same - (I guess I would just rather not feel like I need glasses when I look at a picture) - You are very blessed to be able to live in Alaska!
Just shows really no perfect camera. Used Canon since AE-1, switched to OM when OM-1 was released. For me works well for wildlife and macro. But comes down to shoot what you like and like what you shoot so it makes you want to get out and take pictures. Thanks for great review
You need to learn to program your Ci-4 to the front buttons. Easy peasy to switch AF setting. I have the C1 Af set to all points. The , C2 set to spot, and C3 set to zone. Assign C1 to the Asterisk, C2 to the top front button and C3 to the bottom front button.
Yes I set buttons to change the af settings as I said in the video. but you have to 'change' the settings and you only have one af button regardless. To get fast on the fly always focus on subjects for 99% situations you need the single point AND the auto detect at same time to instantly flip back and forth.
Great review, thank you. I have the OM1i and the 150-400mm lens (and others like the 300mm prime). I struggle with the AF and have a disappointing success rate. I need a second body for a forthcoming trip and had planned to get the OM1ii. I'm not so sure now! I've toyed with finding some other sensible alternative like the R5ii with 100-500mm or Z8 with 180-600mm. But I keep coming back to the OM1ii partly because I'm already heavily invested in the brand, but also because of weight, battery life and file size considerations plus the benefits of the 2x crop factor. Decisions, decisions!
I didn't know they had hummingbirds in Alaska. I heard that hummingbirds have been moving farther north with global warming. What species are there? We only have the ruby-throat where I live. Seems like Alaska is a real wildlife heaven for photographers, definitely want to visit.
It's not global warming for hummingbirds. They have always flown up here like a ton of birds. The Arctic Tern comes all the way from Argentina. We have the Rufus and Anna's hummingbirds that visit Alaska. Alaska is the nesting grounds for a multitude of southern birds. There is an abundance of insects and nesting grounds and long days for rearing their young. Birders paradise if you can get out into the bush and tundra 😄
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it has helped me as a beginner to feed the passion. And now money is exiting from my bank account like water through a sieve. 😊 Alaska sure is beautiful through your lenses. Right now I’m using Canon EOS R6 mII, R7, R50 (first purchase 1 yr ago) R6 is the newest addition and have had it about a week. I only have one red lens the RF 100-500mm. But I have a couple of good macro the RF 85mm F2, 35mm 1.8 , RF 100-400, 1.4x and several others that either came with the camera or . just a little background information. My question and sorry to bother you, is do you in any of your videos talk about SD cards? I got the SD UHSII 90V 300speed 128gb, I have two in the R6 and the R7. I was wondering your recommendation , like I don’t do a lot of video yet as I am way back there in the learning curve. But would a less expensive card be worth using and would you still get good results. I notice you got the 200-800 and got some really good shot using the R7 with it. I’m waiting to hear of one being available for many months now. I hope to someday acquire a portion of your skill set. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge. P.S. I kinda picked up from one of your videos that you had a bit of a health issue. I hope you are back to 100% and feeling better. Sending positive healing waves your way brother.
Thanks for the kind words,. Yes there are a few videos on SD cards, just look though my content and you will find them. Some from Novachips and Exacsend. Both very good cards.
Great video 🙂 Thank you. I’m really intrigued by this camera system. I’m currently using the R7, with the 800 F11. Should have the 200-800 any day now. Oh and 100% agree on DXO ! Like you, I will also use a light touch of Topaz if I have to, as a final step. But most times, just DXO 🙂👍
EVF, did you select muted colors? If you're shooting RAW, using a muted JPEG color palette will make the EVF look better IMO since the EVF displays the JPEG colors, then you can do what you want with the RAW file.
Great review...I've thinking of MFT for a while now but I do love my R7/RF100-400 (giving me 160-640mm) so for me I'm good. Although would be cool to rent with their 100-400.
Would love to hear a quick review on the lens, how did you find the ergonomics? I’ve heard it’s a bit easier to handle and better balanced than the 180-600/200-600
I presume you recorded this before the R1 and R5 II were announced. Those bodies will have pre-capture that works like the OM-1 and A9. I know you haven't used those bodies and I look forward to you having one. Did you order the R5 II, or R1, or both? Thanks.
The R5 MKII is official on Aug 20th. SO its ' not currently' on the market. 🤪 But yes it has the raw in camera roll also. I have the r5MKII on order. Should have it on the 20th. Didn't order the r1. Ill probably make a video on why when I do the initial R5 MKII video, but im sure you an guess why 😄
I started out with olympus film cameras. Then Olympus digital. I had 4 different bodies and enjoyed them. I got into Friday nights lights or low light fast action sports. Olympus had nothing to get the job done so moved on to Canon. Canon failed me too until i got the 5D3. With 70 200 f2.8 lens. I use Canon mirrorless now and often wanted to give Olympus a try again but from what i read Oly still is not good for low light sports. I have to stick to Canon.
Suggesting that the difference in depth of focus between the two systems is purely a matter of taste disregards the fact that you can stop down the Nikon's aperture to match the OM. You can't do the opposite.
@@WILDALASKA, it should be, but unfortunately it's not. And my point was that it is NOT just a matter of taste. The MFT sensor is simply less capable when it comes to depth of focus.
@@richardfink7666, except that diffraction starts to become another limiting factor. While MFT has more depth of focus at the same aperture, MFT will begin exhibiting diffraction sooner, as you stop down. The only real advantage MFT has over 35mm is the size and weight of the system. That advantage is real and significant. EVERYTHING is a compromise. If image quality was all that mattered, we'd all be shooting with large format cameras.
Some of the reviewers have said OM system has fixed the drift issue with the af with this Mark ii version. It seems the problem still exists and I’m a little disappointed that it still has not perfected the af. I’m using the original OM-1 and this drift issue has bothered me so what. I have a Z9 also and it does lose focus but it does not drift once it is locked on but I guess no system is 100% perfect. Hope more firmware updates will fix that eventually
Well you can use an F4 lens that's reasonably cheap, extremely sharp and pretty compact. Most full frame lenses that don't cost the earth or weigh 2kg+ seem to be like F6.3,7.1, F8,9 or even 11 in canon's case. So the difference isn't really that great and you're carrying less than 2kg including the camera. So I don't find the compromises that bad myself
On the Weather Rating you got it completely wrong. OMDS gives a warranty for the standard that no other manufacture does. just look in the small print in the warranties But OMDS or Olympus for that matter does build the Weather Proofing (yes you call that) to a far higher standard. Just look for videos and images and what OMDS /Olympus user do to their gear. Good luck with trying this with any other manufacturer….
@@WILDALASKA Nope. Not Rating. Warranty. I’m an Olympus user since 2005. They are build to a far higher standard… if you are coming form another System this a but difficult to understand… but that’s what they do.. With the OM1 they aimed for IPX5 ( but it’s more a 4/5) and the EM1X is a IPX4 design. There Videos one RUclips for the testing facilities.
This can quite easily be addressed by using the Custom buttons. You can set up your 2nd focus option and assign it to one of those. Then you can assign the C function to another button of your choice so that you can toggle it on and off at will.
Really useful review, pretty much my experience when I tried the OM1 Mark II. Too many ambassador videos out there overselling its af capabilities. Where OM System shines for me is Macro, though. So I got the OM1 + 90mm macro kit instead, saved a bunch of money and got pretty much the same functionality. For everything else I'll stick with my R7. Wish I could justify a R5 Mark II, I'm definitely looking forward to your review of that cam!
I agree about the challenge of getting EVF view to be in the contrast I want. Having to adjust Aperture and or Shutter Speed for some situations seems either too dark or blown out. Finding that right sweet spot is sometimes a dance. I have OM-1. Usually I just make the shot and see what it looks like in review. Most of the time it works great, but sometimes the sweet spot of exposure I want can be challenging. Maybe I will try bracketing and see what that creates. Am glad other people notice it too. A well informed review, thank you.
So that 150-400/4.5 on m43 would be **calculator noises* 300-800/9 on FF. Yes, it's got a build in 2/3-stop TC, and yes, it might be better corrected in some ways, but for under $2000 I'll stick with my 200-800/6.3-9 to get the better range and wider aperture at the wide end.
@@buggersofoz Yep, that's exactly what I said with "yes, it's got a built-in 2/3 stop TC". I've got a 1-stop TC for the rare cases it's actually useful on top of 800mm. Bumps the total price from $2000 to $2500. Is it *quite* as convenient as flipping a switch? no. Is the built-in version $5000 more convenient? no.
Love this video. One quick suggestion... you reference the OM-1 as an "APSC" camera multiple times on the video. Perhaps overlaying some text to correct and avoid any confusion.
The only one confused by this video is you…
@@rvpcqp little defensive maybe?
A valid point. I understood it was a slip, but someone less familiar with different formats might not.
@@rudigerwolf9626 he referred to the camera as APSC maybe 2 or 3 times while speaking about each sensor size collectively…. Nearly 40 min video and you actually took the time to make that comment. Pretty hard not to understand what he was saying, especially for anyone considering paying $10k for a camera system…
Yeah that are all 'basically 'aps-c' the 4/3 app-c is used interchangeable by the masses.
Scott, once again another excellent review that really hones in on what is of most importance to wildlife photographers! This looks like an awesome tool for the right setting and for the right photographer. As we grow older and joints like our backs, wrists, elbows, and shoulders develop orthopedic problems, having a lightweight and smaller system can be extremely helpful.
Very much so. Thanks Vaughn
This is one of the better OM review videos. The setting comments are simply a result of not being familiar with the body/system. This body is simply the most configurable in the entire industry, however can be confusing to figure it all out. The comments on the focus performance is accurate. It’s very sticky, but like everything you need to work out the quirks and how best to live with them. The videos and images on the previous video are very good and a great example of what the system can do. The noise/ low light comments are fair and accurate. With software as DXo and Topaz, as said it really isn’t an issue. What wasn’t really emphasized was the compactness. My kit has 2 bodies, 300f4, 40-150 2.8, 12-40 and 60mm macro. With charger and lightweight carbon tripod, it all fits in a backpack bag that fits in a standard carry on travel bag. No stress about checking the gear when traveling 😊
Thanks for the comments.
Funny thing as people get older, they don't want to carry that weight around and therefore, one or the main reason to get into m43rds. I did research and my first camera system I purchased 2.5 years ago was the Om1, the Mzuiko 150-400 pro 4.5 w/tc, a Panasonic Lumix G9 that got upgraded to G9mkii, I had the Olympus 40-150 pro. f2.8 , and the Olympus12-40mm pro 2.8. I took thousands of images and found myself going back to the computer and doing alota of image processing especially around the face and the eyes, an osprey's feet and talons, underneath its wing most of the time was blurry. Too much effort to make the photo look good.
So, I went back to the drawing board and did more research and rented a Nikon z8, a Nikkor z 180-600, f5.6-6.3 and a Nikkor z24-120mm s f4. I went to the same locations as before and took both systems along, the Olympus gear and the Nikon rental gear for two weeks. First week shooting was to tweek and dial in the Nikon to my style of shooting and the second week shot identical images of perched birds with both systems so I can later compare back home in the computer. I shot birds in flight for IQ, wildlife of the 4-legged kind, Landscapes in beautiful reflection locations eta.
I processed the thousands and thousands of images from both systems, and had my non photographer wife critique the images, I would not tell her from which camera the images came from.
You probably know where this story is going but I sold or traded ""All" of my Olympus gear and my brand-new Panasonic body G9mkii for 2 Nikon z8s, and the same two lens that I rented. After talking to my wife and getting her opinion I decided to take the financial hit. Man did that hurt! But in the end IQ is outstanding now, image processing in lightroom is a couple of tweeks and done. Very little sharpening and noise reduction or touching up the eyes or talons is not necessary.
My wildlife and my landscape shots have little to no noise even shooting in low light with a starting AP of f5.6 and f4. I doubt that I will add any more gear for now, I rather use those funds for travel and put the Nikon to work. As far as weight it's not bad to carry. Obviously, the Olympus Om1 with the 150-400 was lighter to carry than the Nikon z8 with the 180-600, you do get more reach with the Olympus 150-400, maxed out to 1000mm (full frame equivalent) with the TC engaged but the IQ wasn't there. Even in shorter focal lengths, the Nikon would have the better IQ.
If I wasn't into image processing, I would have never sold my Olympus gear because I would have accepted the image as it was and just use a little sharpening and noise reduction and call it a day. I'm not a pro nor do I want to be. I just want to push my images to its max and have that pro-look. Anyways that's my take with using micro 43rds. And BTW I started shooting videos now, that switch on the Nikon from stills to video is a game changer for me with the settings for stills and video ready to go.
Hope I did not derail your video on the Olympus but after watching again, it looked like you weren't totally convinced it was the perfect system, either.
Great story. Love it. And I will have to say shooting Canon forever and now shooting Nikon alongside it, I get more right in camera with my Nikon gear. The colors are so good. And the Bird AF is amazing now
@@WILDALASKA Thats great to know because I almost chose Cannon only because they are #1 in sales, but their lenes never convinced me to jump in. Yes, Bird AF is very good, the first Nikon Z8 I bought, I shot birds for almost a month and never realized I was shooting with old firmware 1.0 in animal mode, but still my hit rate was very good.
Anyways thanks again for your videos, I shoot mainly in wide af, single point af, when needed and triggered to front button and 3D AF on the lower front button with a very good hit rate above 90%.
I love the OM 1 as an enthusiast camera. Has its limitations, but if you don’t earn a living with it it gives people access to a lot of tools for very little money in comparison.
Combined with the 300mm f4
Is a great package.
Also you can set the lever right of the evf up to switch between 2 preprogrammed focus modes.
yes its a good camera. And as I stated in the video I had buttons set to change the focus modes of the AF-on button but you need a second focus button to instantly flip between single point and auto detect which the camera does not have the ability to do.
I'm not sure why people keep repeating the nonsense about "if you don't earn a living with it...". I recently retired from professional work, and earned a good living from shooting weddings, portraits, and corporate events/conferences -- using nothing but Olympus digital cameras/lenses for quite a few years - never, ever had a dissatisfied client. Yes, there are some types of jobs that might require 35mm FF, but there are jobs where that is inadequate, and medium format or large format is required.
In regard to professional wildlife/nature photography, look at the work of people like Andy Rouse, or Peter Bambousek -- they don't seem to have a problem.
I agree and that is how I have it set up. Interesting that the engineers that gave advice didn’t recommend this.
@@hansforsstrom5772 they did but it doesn't remedy the problem. too many clicks to be efficient in the dual button focus methods
@@WILDALASKA first of all thanks for a great video and taking the time to respond. About the af-setup custom ability well guess that depends on how many alternatives you want to have access to on one button. If you’re looking for a fast switch to single point af, like you say in the video, you don’t have to click any button at all. Just assign this to the function lever and flip it with your thumb and you’re there. Can’t see how moving your thumb off the af-on button for a split second can be more cumbersome than clicking a dedicated custom button. But that’s me and I shoot Nikon as well although not the Z9 or Z8 but the D500 had a similar option, and I prefer the way the OM-1 deals with this “issue” compared the D500.
The OM-1 actually gives you at least one another way to deal with it. If you shoot in A, S or M mode you can put access to the four custom modes C1, C2 etc) on dedicated buttons. The downside of this is that you have to remember which button you dedicated to which custom mode, but lets say you only really need one extra af-setup (besides you’re preferred starting one and the one on your lever switch) you can have the third one (C1 for instance) on a dedicated button that only requires a single click. This is also the fastest way I have found to get to different drive modes like pre-capture for instance.
Thanks for the video Scott. Glad you got a chance to use this set up and you give a fair review. I've got this camera, (not the lens, which I covet), as well as a canon R5 and R7. I agree with your pros for a crop-sensor cameras (lighter body and lenses), and this is a good one, with a little more crop than Nikon, Canon, Sony APSC. My primary lens is the older 300 f4 prime, which gives me an effective focal length of 600 mm and great weather sealing, and I also have the affordable Olympus 100-400 zoom. Either set up fits nicely in a seat bag on my bike, and is an easy carry for long hikes and hand holding. It will probably be my go to camera for travel family trips, where i sneak off for a few side adventures (The R7 with RF 100-400 is great hand hold long carry too, though the autofocus with that set up is not as good; but it is not as expensive either). The other reason I got the OM set up is for the pro(pre)-capture. I love it. So much easier to capture birds exiting a perch. All that said, I still like the R5 with the RF100-500 better if I'm not hauling it around on my bike, and when I'm not too concerned about missing pro-capture. If I can get close and fill the frame the detail is definitely better, and it's not to heavy to hand-hold with the RF100-500, though I miss f4 at the long end. Really looking forward to the r5ii, which has pre-capture, and will probably get it in a couple of months, but I think the OM-1 MK II will continue to be my go to in a lot of situations.
Thanks for your thoughts
I use the OM1-M2. I setup the different focusing methods to a custom function and then assign that custom function to a button. This gives me the options I need.
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I was estonished that OM didn't implement a way to switch focus mode, but the way you do it looks like on my Sony on which I set the push button on the zoom to temporarily switch to high speed, burst mode, multizone autofocus when I see a BiF, then release the button to go back to my normal speed/ISO/spot focus mode.
Two button AF, you could have simply set different AF in Fn1 and Fn2, then just flip the switch with your thumb to toggle between AF modes back and forth.
thanks for the input, but once again we are flipping switches and even that does the same thing as one button. doesn't solve the issue for dual button focus.
You switch between autofocus modes by user the lever on the back
Yes I stated that by having a button to switch modes on , but its. a 2 button change, one for mode one for area. I think 80% if the first 2 weeks I tried all kinds of things I came up with and the engineers. Fact is 2 button focus types is much more desirable for how I shoot
@@WILDALASKAYou’ve set this up incorrectly. There is a function switch on the back of the camera to the left of the back button focus button. With this you can set it to do exactly as you described and go from CAF,whole screen to SAF, single point with the flick of the switch. This is exactly how mine is setup. All without taking your eye off the view finder. You can program it to any action you’d like, as with all of the buttons on the body.
@@davidfettback3139 I believe you are correct sir. Love to see folks sharing tips.
@davidfettback3139 missed your comment and added the same one. I also have FN1 set to 'home AF' with all points and the lever plus that cover all my shooting scenarios. I also have custom modes for ProCap and continuous high, but as pointed out in the video, it's annoying that you need to wait for the buffer to fully flush to switch between them.
@@davidfettback3139I have mine set up the same way. It’s a great way to quickly deal with situations where Subject Detection isn’t working.
something I would like to point out however, after using both this OM-1 combo, the Nikon 200-600 and the canon 200-800 combos, I can say that the oly 150-400 f4.5 takes in less light than the others. Roughly 1 stop less. which makes it equal to a f6.3. And since the sensor is smaller that too requires more light. Roughly another f stop if I remember correctly. AND the canon R3's sensor is roghly 2 times better at handeling iso noise.
All this combined made me sell the OM-1 + 150-400 for a Canon R3 + 200-800.
This is of course only my opinion, and correct me if I'm wrong.
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I forget to mention when I initially commented on this idea that both the OM-1 and the OM-1ii have live highlight and shadow alerts. I find it very helpful for white birds.
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After Nikon, then Fujifilm for years, I’m back to my old Olympus M43 bodies and
a pocket full of primes. Mostly wide angle on my little PEN bodies. Such a joy. 💁🏻♀️💕
Plus my $ 75. super lightweight Olympus 40-150mm when I need some reach.
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How about using 2 custom modes. Have one setup for single point, and a second set for multipoint. One click of the wheel to change between the two modes (Cutom Modes C1-C4). I see the same issues with white birds in Florida. Mostly Egrets, Ibis, and Wood Storks. Eagles are a bit few and far between in South Florida, but a few are around. I have the other 100-400 and the 150-600, both of which provide a nice reach. I'd really like to see an OM 70-200 F2.8 for places that are a bit cozier.
Still to slow a method vs 2 buttons already working as needed. Thanks for the tip though.
Great job Scott! I have been using the OM-1 for a couple of years after moving from Canon. I have enjoyed using it and have no regrets. I mostly use the 300mm F4 Pro. I use the function lever to change between C-AF and S-AF with a single point. I have subject detection on the ISO button but I have found that even when in single point S-AF that I rarely have to turn off subject detection. It works even through very thick brush. It is a bit counter intuitive but works great. I did buy the OM-1 Mk 2 after it was released. I used it for a week and then returned it. I felt that the AF was more inconsistent than the OM-1. Like you I don’t use the graduated ND so while I think it’s cool to have it doesn’t matter for my use case. I also use Topaz Photo AI to process most of my photos. I get great results and generally upscale everything 2X. I would be interested in seeing your review of the lens. Now they are easier to come by so I might still pick one up.
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I also used Om-1 II for weeks taking pictures of bald eagles in flight and was very upset with the autofocus performance (given all the hype), which appeared to be less consistent compared to OM-1 when the background was changing and complex. It worked a bit better with less pulsation for stationary subjects though
I am not sure about your comments on "light gathering" because of the 4/3 sensor. A bigger area photo cell for example will generate more electricity but a camera sensor will receive exactly the same amount of light per unit area as a larger sensor. PIxel pitch would be an issue.
micro 4/3 is a 4x reduction in light gathering vs a full frame sensor. Its just the actual technical characteristics of the different sin the sensors.
@@WILDALASKA this is only meaningful if the two cameras have the same number of megapixels. If both are 20MP, for example, then the MFT will have 1/4 of the light hitting each sensor. However, if the FF is, for example, 80MP, then the light gathering per-pixel is exactly the same, and the pixel size (pixel pitch) is exactly the same. You just have fewer pixels in the MFT.
great video! Really highlights the differences from 4/3 and full frame.Great info!
Thanks
Very nice and detailed review. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your fantastic in depth look at this one. As a Canon R7 & RF100-500mm bird nut I couldn't help watching and constantly comparing because they'd be quite close for ultimate reach vs shy birds. R7 kit: 500mm x 1.6 => 800mm "equiv" / OM1 kit: 500mm x 2 =>1000mm. But it's closer than that as the R7 sensor is approx 32mp vs OM 20mp. Adjust for that and you probably have almost identical resolving power. I'd have to stick with my R7 since I already have it and love it and the awesome lens. Would still love trying the OM1ii though. So thanks for showing us and sharing your thoughts so honestly.
Both great rigs really can't go wrong with either setup, but fun fir me to get to test it out for a month
First of all I do love your channel. When you make a video I always watch it. And you once again made another great video. But I have to comment that 800mm at f9 sounds really familiar. Canon R8 paired with rf 200-800mm. About $3200 dollars. Om1 MK2 paired with professional level lens you were using for the video. Close to 10000 dollars. Do you see a big difference in image quality. It is a big difference in cost.
Full frame will always out perform 4/3 in light and DoF so yes there is a difference. Weight is almost the same also. Lot of folks would use the 300 Om System lens so it would have a higher weight and price savings vs what I was using. I just wanted to test the best of the best from Om Systems.
And I get where you are coming from but I didn't want to get into that too much in the video.
thank you for making this very useful and informative video. I think the Om-1MK II does very well compared to the full frame and megapixel cameras. white birds pose quite a challenge for almost all cameras. the best you can do is slightly underexpose. The AF not working properly is something that the engineers at OM system have to solve. The last thing you want is a malfunctioning AF. That's why you miss beautiful moments that you don't want to miss. The lenses of Olympus lenses belong to the TOP world. now a camera with a good and fast-working AF system.🙏
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Some great thoughts, but it sounds you need to learn how to use the lever next to AF-on button. You set a heap of AF settings (size of area, single shot or continuous, sticky/flexible etc) and you flick between them without taking the eye off the viewfinder. You can also add a third setting called home AF to another function button, and e.g. set the AF zone to full sensor for birds and flight.
TOO many buttons to hit when you should be able to as with every other camera brand assign 2 buttons for 2 seperate focus types.
Great Video!
Thanks!
Thanks Scott. It was so great to hear your insights on this. I hope the folks at OM take your suggestions to heart. The only con I don’t share is with the whites. With the Live Highlights alerts turned on, the whites turn red when the highlights are being blown out, so I rarely miss an exposure. But I certainly agree with all your other pros and cons. Great job!
Yes I turned that one but its more distracting to me during shooting than helpful. Again a me thing. Just wish I knew why it looks that way on whites. It's a tick tag thing though.
And thank you is much for the super thanks.
Thanks for your objective impressions of this system. I would like to correct a couple issues that are incorrect, and these relate mostly to your lack of familiarity with the camera and lens.
First, the issue you brought up about metering for highlights can be easily dealt with by simply using the Highlight/Shadow 'blinkies' that you can turn on or off in the menus. If you have that feature activated, it will clearly show any highlights that are clipping by a flashing red area in the viewfinder -- you can simply adjust exposure comp to eliminate those.
Second, you made the claim that you cannot set two buttons to change AF focus area/pattern. This is not correct, if I understand you correctly. You can easily assign any set of shooting parameters, including AF Target area and Subject Detection to one of 4 Custom Settings on the Mode Dial, and then assign a button to simply toggle that Custom Setting on or off. I have my OM-1 set up this way -- I have my 'bird on a stick' settings in C1 and have my 'AEL' Button programmed to select that, and I have my 'bird in flight' settings assigned to C2 and have my 'AF-ON' Button programmed to select that. So if I'm shooting a bird sitting on a branch and think he's going to fly off, I can simply press my 'AF-ON' Button, and bang, I'm instantly in a totally different set of shooting parameters including Pro Capture, press it again and I'm back to 'bird on a stick'.
In addition, if you are using any of the Olympus/OM Pro lenses, such as the 150-400mm in this video, there are 'L-fn' buttons on the lens that can be programmed to change AF Target Mode.
Hope this helps. Here is a good article on the AF system flexibility:
learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/basics-of-photography/how-to-turn-autofocus-from-your-enemy-to-your
Once again you are clicking more than one button to do something that should be just ONE button. One for auto, one for single and not OTHER clicking around.
I was in close contact with OM System and their engineers the entire time during testing the camera. We had the 'correct' settings and tried numerous different things during testing to adjust a lot of items we came across during our testing.
And I should not need blinkies or highlight alerts as I haven't needed it on any other cameras to see that exposure. Again as I stated in the video it may be a me thing of not being able to see that.
@@WILDALASKA Either you don't understand me, or I don't understand you. I understand you to say the you want to be able to set two buttons to select between C-AF + tracking (what you call 'Auto') and S-AF.
If that is correct, then the set up process I suggested will do that with one button press -- you do not need two buttons. It's simply a matter of setting up the camera one time.
You simply set your camera to all the settings you would use to capture a bird in flight, and then simply save those settings to a Custom Setting like 'C1' it stays there until you reset 'C1' -- even if you change settings while shooting and turn the camera off. When you turn the camera back on, all your original 'C1' settings will be there.
Then you simply program a button, like the 'AEL' button to select 'C1' -- you're done.
If you are out shooting a bird on a branch in S-AF Mode, 200 ISO, Aperture Priority, etc. and you want to shoot a bird in flight, all you do is press one button -- the 'AEL' button and all of your settings change to BIF mode (e.g. C-AF+Tracking, Auto ISO, Shutter Priority, Burst Mode, etc. -- whatever your normal BIF settings would be.) -- one button, one press. To return to the bird on a branch settings you simply press the 'AEL' button again and your settings revert to what you originally were shooting at. I'm not sure how this could be any simpler, because there are substantial differences in preferred setting between the two types of shooting, and with this method you are switching all those settings with one button press and can simply tweak as needed.
It may be how your AF was set up. The AF on the OM-1 MkII is better than my R5. I have both. The MkI is about the same as the R5. When my R5MkII gets here it will be an interesting comparison. I don't get the the jumpy focus that you say you had (stills).
I totally disagree. the r5 has little to no drift. It's night and day. I even had the OM System engineers helping with the AF drift issues. So I think we covered all the correct or useful settings.
Nice review, thanks. You are the first one mentioning about the issue with the viewfinder; hopefully OM Systems will take a note. I also have the OM-1 and OM-1 II since they were released and have been using it with 300 mf4 and 150-400 mmF4.5 for wildlife, primarily birds. I take lots of pictures of bald eagles in flight. I completely agree with you remarks regarding the viewfinder behavior in certain situations, which can be very frustrating. I also agree that the autofocus tracking for subjects in flight is good, but at least 1-2 generations behind the Sony (I also use Sony). For the steady subjects the autofocus is comparable. This system works best when there is lots of light, otherwise using DXO noise reduction is almost a must.
Thanks
The OM system is a curiosity for me. I am surprised at the cost. I’ve shot with the M4/3 Panasonic G9 and disliked the IQ with many soft shots. Frankly, I got frustrated pretty quickly and sold it for the full frame R5 and RF 100-500. Wow, what a difference in quality and keeper rate. Weight is still good for my rig. I shoot mostly birds, so the ability to crop is important to me. However, I’m waiting for the R7ii, to try a cropped APSC sensor with my lens. APSC seems to be a good middle ground sensor. I’m looking forward to what Canon will release in 2025!
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Only one back button focus available knocks that of my want list immediately.
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Fantastic review, one of the best listing out pros and cons! You are not wrong on the EVF. But not sure if you had used HL/SD alert. It can be set up easily. Regarding AF drifting, I believe you can prioritize AF box to eliminate the drift or when you are dealing with multiple subject in the same frame. It will allow you to pick the one that AF box is placed over without it jumping around. Regarding multiple focus buttons, yes, it is different. I think you can overcome this by using the FN lever. You would set one for CAF and one for SAF. On the SAF, you would set it with single target point. You could assign a button for subject detection and disable/enable it on the fly. You can also set up how SAF focus differently as well. Yes, as we get older or having health issue, either we take the compromise and keep on shooting or call it the end! My buddy adopted OM1.2 with 150-400mm because he could not longer handle his R5 with 600mm F4 lenses. One thing I thought bothering me and my friend is the lack of the third wheel. My buddy wish OM has it just like this Canon. It makes adjusting EC a lot easier!
Thanks for the info and yes we tried all those fixes/tricks when testing out the rig. The rig is lighter but I think the r7 with the 200-800 produces about the same features and reach and weight. 3rd wheel would be nice, but I just kept the wheels to ISO and Shutter and left my aperture wide open
@@WILDALASKA The issue with R7 would be the buffer making that high FPS not practical to use. Also, that 200-800 lens would be pretty much useless when shooting within 30mins sunrise/sunset, time I and my buddy love to shoot owls. We are using 300mm F4 and 200mm F2.8 lenses during those hours. The reach usually never our issue but the light to retain enough SS to freeze owls in flight with reasonable ISO. Also, R7 with the 200-800 lens would fail to acquire focus in such dim condition. We did try. Again, we have shot with Canon for years. Now that we tried different format, there are pros and cons to each system.
Re the drift? Assuming it occurred when the camera was set in one of the animals or bird detection methods modes, did you try disabling this and simply using a small focus point? I use the Mk 1 and particularly in animal mode If I experience this I change to a single point and just rely on continuous autofocus without tracking. Immediately I took delivery of the camera I also created a vey fine 1x1 single focus point. It’s much better then the supplied small setting. Also I generally avoid the tracking option.
We tried a ton of different area modes and we experienced drift in a lot of cases. Not horrible but its there.
Good review and Great Comparison!!! As far as focus modes between BIF and Perched birds, besides changing the focus points and turning off subject detect, I also want to switch to apature priority with a low fixed ISO to reduce the noise. Using custom modes and assigning those modes to buttons works perfectly for the scenario you mention in the video.
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@@WILDALASKA However, I do agree with you that having dual fucus buttons that could be set up for different focusing modes would make changing modes instantaneous without the second or so delay of changing custom modes.
Ok, one more... your comments on light gathering is way different than my experience!. I have both full frame and the OM-1. For any given scene, I shoot exactly the same ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed to get the same exposed image. So the segment on light gathering capability and "ISO 800 is really ISO 3200 on full frame" is questionable, in my opinion. In fact, I just took out my full frame and OM-1. Took exactly the same image at 24mm using the same settings for ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture. Images are exposed the same. What were your settings for the gull image that was taken both with full frame and OM-1?
WRT the Aperture and DOF.. yes, at the same location the 4/3 sensor depth of field is deeper than an equivalent full frame camera. Stabilization and weather sealing is terrific. WRT to autofocus, the function lever is specifically designed to switch between two different types of focus. Fn Lever Settings, Mode 2 switches "AF mode/AT target mode/AF target point" to accomplish exactly what you described...with one flick I can go from large auto to small manual... or whatever you want as your two AF approaches. Is this not what you were trying to accomplish? Sounds like you talked with the engineers, so I'm confused on what you are trying to accomplish and why the Fn Lever does not meet your requirements.
DXO makes a huge difference. WRT AF locking, did you try using AF Sensitivity as an adjustment. It is not as good as the Sony A1...but we are also comparing a $5,000 camera to a $2,300 camera. Thanks for doing this video. Really appreciate it. Gave me some things to consider. BTW, heading up to Kodiak in two weeks. Really appreciate your channel.
The ISO 800, ISO 3200 comparison comes down to the total light used to make the image. Let's use your m43 and full-frame kits to illustrate.
Suppose you setup your m43 kit on a tripod at 100mm, f/4, 1/100-second. The ISO doesn't matter. Pick whichever ISO produces an image having a pleasing lightness. Make a photo.
Next, mount your full-frame kit to the tripod. The goal will be to make the same photo you just made with the m43 system.
You'll be at 200mm focal length to get the same framing. You'll use a 1/100 shutter speed to render movement in the frame the same. Now, comes the part that can get overlooked.
The m43 kit was at 1/100, f/4. The full-frame kit needs to be at 1/100, f/8 to make the same photo. The full-frame kit at 200mm, f/8 makes a photo having the same framing and depth of field as a m43 system at 100mm, f/4. We know this because the size of the lens's entrance pupil - its aperture - determines depth of field. A 100mm, f/4 lens has a (100mm/4=25mm) 25mm entrance pupil. A 200mm, f/8 lens has (200mm/8=25mm) the same 25mm entrance pupil.
Since the entrance pupils are the same size, the total light delivered to the sensors will also be the same. That means the photos will have the same noise visibility.
Doubling the m43 focal length and f-stop gives you the focal length and f-stop a full-frame system needs to make the same photo.
The last piece of the puzzle is image lightness. If we want to make the same photo with both cameras, they need to have the same lightness. That's where ISO enters the picture.
ISO is used to manage image lightness. That's it's job. It's not an exposure setting nor is it a source of noise. ISO establishes a relationship between the exposure used and the final image lightness.
This is where the ISO 800, ISO 3200 comparison is explained. Suppose the photo you make with your m43 system is made at 100mm, f/4, 1/100, ISO 800. To make the same photo with your full-frame kit you'll be at 200mm, f/8, 1/100, ISO 3200. Those settings will allow the two different format cameras to make the same photos...photos having the same framing, same depth of field, same detail, same noise visibility, and same lightness.
If you try this at home with your gear, you'll see that it works as described.
As the man said: You havent allways got the time to lift your thumb (and by that deactivate AF if you are using the af-on button) then change the lever and then move your thumb back to the af-on button. With two programable AF buttons (for eaxample the index-finger exposure button and the thumb af-on button) you can intantly change between one point common af-c and whole area subject detection). If you don´t realize that you have never tried to photograph flying birds or running mamals in front of different/changing backgrounds.
@@BillFerris What nonsense the whole thing only works if I increase the value to a shallow depth of field. P.S.: Shallow depth of field has not only advantages!
If a faster shutter speed is important to me I can get further with aperture 4.5/mft than with aperture 9/ff.
@@BillFerris Bill, thank-you and completely agree. What Scott said is that the M4/3 sensor captures 1/4 of the light that the full frame camera captures, and that therefore you have to increase ISO on the M4/3 camera, 800 becomes 3200. In your example, you show exactly the opposite, ISO 800 on M4/3 becomes ISO 3200 on FF to get an equivalent image. Equivalency between FF and M4/3 is a hotly debated topic covered at length in many You-Tube videos. Bringing up exposure equivalency as one of a few issues with the camera, with only a partial and unclear explanation, may leave an impression that the M4/3 cameras needs 4 times the light, meaning significantly slower shutter, larger aperture, or higher ISO to capture the same image lightness. In my testing, that is not true. The same ISO, shutter speed and aperture generate the same lightness of image (exposure) in either system. Therefore, the camera/lens combination does not capture 1/4 the light of FF. Sensor size does impact total light captured. It does not impact volume of light captured by each pixel. Therefore the elements of the exposure triangle do not need to change to achieve the same lightness of an image. There was no mention of DOF in the light gathering segment. I agree with your example, if you want to capture the exact same image (lightness, DOF, motion stoppage, noise), then the settings do need to be different. But, that was not the point being made in the video.
Thanks! 'personally' I think Bokeh is overrated and way overdone, I don't like obvious blur and prefer detail in the backdrop, unless it is a sky or something with less detail.
Depends on what you are trying to accomplish with your 'art' of the photograph. And I think stated that in the video of everyone has a different want and look.
@@WILDALASKA Yep, sorry, I guess I was being too critical - and not everyone will like everything the same - (I guess I would just rather not feel like I need glasses when I look at a picture) - You are very blessed to be able to live in Alaska!
Maybe you could help. Question! How do I lock the dials on a n OM -! Mk2? On Canon there is a button for locking the dials
Check Om System website for the full manual.
Just shows really no perfect camera. Used Canon since AE-1, switched to OM when OM-1 was released. For me works well for wildlife and macro. But comes down to shoot what you like and like what you shoot so it makes you want to get out and take pictures. Thanks for great review
Agree. You have to find what works for your shooting needs and comfort. All cameras anymore are outstanding and this is another great option.
You need to learn to program your Ci-4 to the front buttons. Easy peasy to switch AF setting. I have the C1 Af set to all points. The , C2 set to spot, and C3 set to zone. Assign C1 to the Asterisk, C2 to the top front button and C3 to the bottom front button.
Yes I set buttons to change the af settings as I said in the video. but you have to 'change' the settings and you only have one af button regardless. To get fast on the fly always focus on subjects for 99% situations you need the single point AND the auto detect at same time to instantly flip back and forth.
@@WILDALASKA It's quite simple to hit one of the front buttons and then the AF button. Forefinger and thumb. Takes an instant.
Great review, thank you. I have the OM1i and the 150-400mm lens (and others like the 300mm prime). I struggle with the AF and have a disappointing success rate. I need a second body for a forthcoming trip and had planned to get the OM1ii. I'm not so sure now!
I've toyed with finding some other sensible alternative like the R5ii with 100-500mm or Z8 with 180-600mm. But I keep coming back to the OM1ii partly because I'm already heavily invested in the brand, but also because of weight, battery life and file size considerations plus the benefits of the 2x crop factor. Decisions, decisions!
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I didn't know they had hummingbirds in Alaska. I heard that hummingbirds have been moving farther north with global warming. What species are there? We only have the ruby-throat where I live. Seems like Alaska is a real wildlife heaven for photographers, definitely want to visit.
It's not global warming for hummingbirds. They have always flown up here like a ton of birds. The Arctic Tern comes all the way from Argentina. We have the Rufus and Anna's hummingbirds that visit Alaska. Alaska is the nesting grounds for a multitude of southern birds. There is an abundance of insects and nesting grounds and long days for rearing their young. Birders paradise if you can get out into the bush and tundra 😄
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it has helped me as a beginner to feed the passion. And now money is exiting from my bank account like water through a sieve. 😊 Alaska sure is beautiful through your lenses. Right now I’m using Canon EOS R6 mII, R7, R50 (first purchase 1 yr ago) R6 is the newest addition and have had it about a week. I only have one red lens the RF 100-500mm. But I have a couple of good macro the RF 85mm F2, 35mm 1.8 , RF 100-400, 1.4x and several others that either came with the camera or . just a little background information. My question and sorry to bother you, is do you in any of your videos talk about SD cards? I got the SD UHSII 90V 300speed 128gb, I have two in the R6 and the R7. I was wondering your recommendation , like I don’t do a lot of video yet as I am way back there in the learning curve. But would a less expensive card be worth using and would you still get good results. I notice you got the 200-800 and got some really good shot using the R7 with it. I’m waiting to hear of one being available for many months now. I hope to someday acquire a portion of your skill set. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge.
P.S. I kinda picked up from one of your videos that you had a bit of a health issue. I hope you are back to 100% and feeling better. Sending positive healing waves your way brother.
Thanks for the kind words,. Yes there are a few videos on SD cards, just look though my content and you will find them. Some from Novachips and Exacsend. Both very good cards.
Great video 🙂 Thank you. I’m really intrigued by this camera system. I’m currently using the R7, with the 800 F11. Should have the 200-800 any day now.
Oh and 100% agree on DXO ! Like you, I will also use a light touch of Topaz if I have to, as a final step. But most times, just DXO 🙂👍
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EVF, did you select muted colors? If you're shooting RAW, using a muted JPEG color palette will make the EVF look better IMO since the EVF displays the JPEG colors, then you can do what you want with the RAW file.
Then colors I was referring to was the raw file during editing, not in camera.
Great review...I've thinking of MFT for a while now but I do love my R7/RF100-400 (giving me 160-640mm) so for me I'm good. Although would be cool to rent with their 100-400.
Thanks for sharing
My canon R6 AF will wander off pretty soon.
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Would love to hear a quick review on the lens, how did you find the ergonomics? I’ve heard it’s a bit easier to handle and better balanced than the 180-600/200-600
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I presume you recorded this before the R1 and R5 II were announced. Those bodies will have pre-capture that works like the OM-1 and A9. I know you haven't used those bodies and I look forward to you having one. Did you order the R5 II, or R1, or both? Thanks.
He said on the market today.
The R5 MKII is official on Aug 20th. SO its ' not currently' on the market. 🤪 But yes it has the raw in camera roll also. I have the r5MKII on order. Should have it on the 20th. Didn't order the r1. Ill probably make a video on why when I do the initial R5 MKII video, but im sure you an guess why 😄
I started out with olympus film cameras. Then Olympus digital. I had 4 different bodies and enjoyed them. I got into Friday nights lights or low light fast action sports. Olympus had nothing to get the job done so moved on to Canon. Canon failed me too until i got the 5D3. With 70 200 f2.8 lens. I use Canon mirrorless now and often wanted to give Olympus a try again but from what i read Oly still is not good for low light sports. I have to stick to Canon.
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Suggesting that the difference in depth of focus between the two systems is purely a matter of taste disregards the fact that you can stop down the Nikon's aperture to match the OM. You can't do the opposite.
Yeah I figure thats was pretty obvious to anyone 🤪
@@WILDALASKA, it should be, but unfortunately it's not. And my point was that it is NOT just a matter of taste. The MFT sensor is simply less capable when it comes to depth of focus.
@@PatrickSmeaton Macro photograhy: Advantage mft
@@richardfink7666, except that diffraction starts to become another limiting factor. While MFT has more depth of focus at the same aperture, MFT will begin exhibiting diffraction sooner, as you stop down.
The only real advantage MFT has over 35mm is the size and weight of the system. That advantage is real and significant.
EVERYTHING is a compromise. If image quality was all that mattered, we'd all be shooting with large format cameras.
Some of the reviewers have said OM system has fixed the drift issue with the af with this Mark ii version. It seems the problem still exists and I’m a little disappointed that it still has not perfected the af. I’m using the original OM-1 and this drift issue has bothered me so what. I have a Z9 also and it does lose focus but it does not drift once it is locked on but I guess no system is 100% perfect. Hope more firmware updates will fix that eventually
Nice to know. My main point I guess is it drifts more than what I'm used to on most of my current cameras I use.
Om1 stabilisation beats the Z7 II but may not be as good as the newer Nikons ie Z8 Z9 76III.
Not sure on the Z7II but it doesn't beat the Z6III, Z*, or Z( from my use. Its very very good though.
I really wish this camera wasn't 3/4 😢 It sounds incredible but for that... I think there's too many cons for me. Damn.
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Well you can use an F4 lens that's reasonably cheap, extremely sharp and pretty compact.
Most full frame lenses that don't cost the earth or weigh 2kg+ seem to be like F6.3,7.1, F8,9 or even 11 in canon's case.
So the difference isn't really that great and you're carrying less than 2kg including the camera.
So I don't find the compromises that bad myself
On the Weather Rating you got it completely wrong. OMDS gives a warranty for the standard that no other manufacture does. just look in the small print in the warranties But OMDS or Olympus for that matter does build the Weather Proofing (yes you call that) to a far higher standard. Just look for videos and images and what OMDS /Olympus user do to their gear. Good luck with trying this with any other manufacturer….
Rating is IP53 per OM System.
@@WILDALASKA Nope. Not Rating. Warranty. I’m an Olympus user since 2005. They are build to a far higher standard… if you are coming form another System this a but difficult to understand… but that’s what they do..
With the OM1 they aimed for IPX5 ( but it’s more a 4/5) and the EM1X is a IPX4 design.
There Videos one RUclips for the testing facilities.
the lack of of options for multiple focus buttons would be a definite problem. Thanks for all your detail.
Totally agree
This can quite easily be addressed by using the Custom buttons. You can set up your 2nd focus option and assign it to one of those. Then you can assign the C function to another button of your choice so that you can toggle it on and off at will.
Really useful review, pretty much my experience when I tried the OM1 Mark II. Too many ambassador videos out there overselling its af capabilities.
Where OM System shines for me is Macro, though. So I got the OM1 + 90mm macro kit instead, saved a bunch of money and got pretty much the same functionality. For everything else I'll stick with my R7.
Wish I could justify a R5 Mark II, I'm definitely looking forward to your review of that cam!
thanks. Soon as I get hold of the R5 MKII ill let you know she works out 💪
I agree about the challenge of getting EVF view to be in the contrast I want. Having to adjust Aperture and or Shutter Speed for some situations seems either too dark or blown out. Finding that right sweet spot is sometimes a dance. I have OM-1. Usually I just make the shot and see what it looks like in review. Most of the time it works great, but sometimes the sweet spot of exposure I want can be challenging. Maybe I will try bracketing and see what that creates. Am glad other people notice it too. A well informed review, thank you.
Glad it wasn't just me. There end results on the image are good, so I guess thats the best result ;)
So that 150-400/4.5 on m43 would be **calculator noises* 300-800/9 on FF. Yes, it's got a build in 2/3-stop TC, and yes, it might be better corrected in some ways, but for under $2000 I'll stick with my 200-800/6.3-9 to get the better range and wider aperture at the wide end.
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It is 300-1000 due to built-in 1.25 teleconverter with a flip of a switch which surprisingly isn't covered that much in the video.
@@buggersofoz Yep, that's exactly what I said with "yes, it's got a built-in 2/3 stop TC".
I've got a 1-stop TC for the rare cases it's actually useful on top of 800mm. Bumps the total price from $2000 to $2500. Is it *quite* as convenient as flipping a switch? no. Is the built-in version $5000 more convenient? no.