Great Riley! We carry one ninja for each of our 3 A7siii bodies, but mostly for exposure tools when recording internal. You motivate us to use the Ninjas more for RAW. Thank you! Its great to see what wonderful imagery you get out of that codec!
@@RileyEndicott Cool stuff.. I’m spending a lot of time researching and setting up my ‘proresraw workflow’ with my new A7siii & Ninja V. I noticed in one of your vids that when you’re shooting proresraw, you’re not using LUTs, (which makes sense to me) but you are utilising the PQ mode (as well as your waveform scale) in your Moniter.. which I think is super smart because it gives you a good idea of exposure without applying LUTs. My question is; in using the PQ profile in the monitor of the Ninja V.. does it effect the proresraw output whatsoever? Does it ‘bake it in’ at all? Or does it remain fully un-effected proresraw data? Cheers mate. Rich 👍😎 (sorry for the long question - I’ll ask something simpler next time, I promise! 🤣)
I totally agree! That would be awesome. Especially on the waveform comment about where to expose skin tones. I feel like some of my videos turn out good exposure wise, and then others don’t.
Wow, this is really interesting. Exposure is still one of our biggest problems when we film outside and usually have to do quite a bit of work in post. Keep up the great work and glad to have found your channel through Matt's slack community 💛😁
common tips but very nicely brought together In one concise easy to understand video good stuff! My only point to add is that you mention that all skin tones should be exposed at or just above middle grey, but if using the Ansel Adams Zone system I would go one-stop under middle grey for light skin tones and one stop over middle grey for darker tones. What do you think? BTW I only shoot a7s3/raw. The latest update brings WB control in raw too!
Ansel Adam’s is the master but he shot on film and typically black and white. Film has a lot more latitude and doesn’t have the same dynamics to worry about that a log curve does. For film photography or probably even cinema shot on film his advice is probably better though. But for digital images (specifically video) captured on a log curve I probably wouldn’t go with that system.
@@RileyEndicott plus digital Is like slide film. The opposite happens. The more like you give it the less detail in highlights while film the more light you give it the the more light you are giving the shadows while blocking up the lights you do have detail in highlights but you just have to expose it more by exposing more on paper using burning tools
And now I want a Ninja more than I already did. Haha Fantastic video! I’m currently using a GH5 and love the waveform internally but having a Ninja would be great.
Does the rim light over a greenscreen background suffice as backlighting to give depth to the subject? I'm thinking of using only one side light on the subject for chiarascuro effect and no other light than the rim light over the greenscreen. Shooting an evening castle courtyard scene. Could that lighting setup work? (am using Sony FX30, 15mm 1.4 wide angle lens, Ninja V+)
It may help, especially if the light has a magnetic tint to it (opposite of green). But I’m general you should try to get your green screen lit as close to even (like within 1/3 of a stop) as possible. That will make for the cleanest key. Do lots of testing beforehand and you’ll find something that works!
Hi Riley. Thanks for great video and explanation. I have an issue with my ninja v and sony a7siii. For some reason log/hdr toggle is grayed out so I can't even turn it on or off nor I can't even bring the legalize toggle due to this issue. I was wondering if you have a solution !?
I love it! The auto focus is a huge plus! I definitely didn't think I would use it a ton and I do! Its definitely a different camera than the pocket 6k so it really depends on what you shoot.
Sure, but atomos accepts only a video level signal, while log is full. So i am not sure that you can use middle grey at 41ire as per log. This device is messed up
Great Riley! We carry one ninja for each of our 3 A7siii bodies, but mostly for exposure tools when recording internal. You motivate us to use the Ninjas more for RAW. Thank you! Its great to see what wonderful imagery you get out of that codec!
Thanks Martin! Sounds like you have a great set up! Yeah I’ve been loving the option of having a raw codec. It’s definitely been nice to use.
Great video dude. It‘s very interesting. Keep up the great work.🙌🏽
Thanks I appreciate it!!
Just got an A7siii and a ninja v.. setting it up .. great vid Riley. Cheers mate!!
Thanks Rich! Good luck with the set up!
@@RileyEndicott Cool stuff.. I’m spending a lot of time researching and setting up my ‘proresraw workflow’ with my new A7siii & Ninja V. I noticed in one of your vids that when you’re shooting proresraw, you’re not using LUTs, (which makes sense to me) but you are utilising the PQ mode (as well as your waveform scale) in your Moniter.. which I think is super smart because it gives you a good idea of exposure without applying LUTs. My question is; in using the PQ profile in the monitor of the Ninja V.. does it effect the proresraw output whatsoever? Does it ‘bake it in’ at all? Or does it remain fully un-effected proresraw data? Cheers mate. Rich 👍😎 (sorry for the long question - I’ll ask something simpler next time, I promise! 🤣)
Love the tips, maybe you could make a video including more step-by-step of actually putting some of these tips to use with an example scene!
Thanks Ryan! That’s a fun idea!
I totally agree! That would be awesome. Especially on the waveform comment about where to expose skin tones. I feel like some of my videos turn out good exposure wise, and then others don’t.
Wow, this is really interesting. Exposure is still one of our biggest problems when we film outside and usually have to do quite a bit of work in post. Keep up the great work and glad to have found your channel through Matt's slack community 💛😁
Alpha 1 & Atomos Ninja V+ - Awesome...
common tips but very nicely brought together In one concise easy to understand video good stuff! My only point to add is that you mention that all skin tones should be exposed at or just above middle grey, but if using the Ansel Adams Zone system I would go one-stop under middle grey for light skin tones and one stop over middle grey for darker tones. What do you think? BTW I only shoot a7s3/raw. The latest update brings WB control in raw too!
Ansel Adam’s is the master but he shot on film and typically black and white. Film has a lot more latitude and doesn’t have the same dynamics to worry about that a log curve does. For film photography or probably even cinema shot on film his advice is probably better though. But for digital images (specifically video) captured on a log curve I probably wouldn’t go with that system.
But hey, if you get great results with another system don’t let me stop you! 🙂
@@RileyEndicott plus digital
Is like slide film. The opposite happens. The more like you give it the less detail in highlights while film the more light you give it the the more light you are giving the shadows while blocking up the lights you do have detail in highlights but you just have to expose it more by exposing more on paper using burning tools
And now I want a Ninja more than I already did. Haha
Fantastic video!
I’m currently using a GH5 and love the waveform internally but having a Ninja would be great.
Haha! I didn’t know the GH5 had a built in waveform! That’s super nice. Definitely wish Sony had that built in.
Thank you!
Damn bro that quality 👌👏
Thank you!
Does the rim light over a greenscreen background suffice as backlighting to give depth to the subject? I'm thinking of using only one side light on the subject for chiarascuro effect and no other light than the rim light over the greenscreen. Shooting an evening castle courtyard scene. Could that lighting setup work? (am using Sony FX30, 15mm 1.4 wide angle lens, Ninja V+)
It may help, especially if the light has a magnetic tint to it (opposite of green). But I’m general you should try to get your green screen lit as close to even (like within 1/3 of a stop) as possible. That will make for the cleanest key. Do lots of testing beforehand and you’ll find something that works!
thanks again
Only half way through and I love this video! Dude visuals, voice over, everything is super on point especially that lighting!
Thanks dude! I appreciate it!
Great job!
Thanks Jason! I appreciate it!
Hi Riley. Thanks for great video and explanation.
I have an issue with my ninja v and sony a7siii. For some reason log/hdr toggle is grayed out so I can't even turn it on or off nor I can't even bring the legalize toggle due to this issue. I was wondering if you have a solution !?
Nice video dude
Thank you!
Looking to see if anyone has tested the new Atomos Ninja H.265 vs the Sony A7SIII Internal HS ? Have you tried yet?
Great video Riley! I love how the music blends in with the different shots and the story.
Thanks Max!
Hi can you tell me what's your export setting when you work with prores raw. I used format hevc h. 265 in present I use match sourse high bitrate
How do you like the a7s 3 ? I have the pocket 6k but I’m debating to go Sony cause of the form factor and autofocus
I love it! The auto focus is a huge plus! I definitely didn't think I would use it a ton and I do! Its definitely a different camera than the pocket 6k so it really depends on what you shoot.
Do I need legalise turned on in the Ninja, or does that stuff up the full range of Slog3?
I don’t usually turn it on bc it limits other functions of the Ninja V. But if you need pro res in your workflow it can be a helpful tool.
Sure, but atomos accepts only a video level signal, while log is full. So i am not sure that you can use middle grey at 41ire as per log. This device is messed up
Do you use "HDMI info. Display"?
No. I turn it off. Especially if I’m recording externally.
@@RileyEndicott why does recording externally matter? i just find it easier to see the eye/face boxes on monitor but I hate the image gets smaller
@@NewYorkerPEACE You can record in formats that retain more color information and offer a little more flexibility with color grading, etc.
Hey man, so when filming in slog3, making sure the wave form levels are in the middle most of the time is ideal ya think?
It depends on the scene but that is generally a good rule of thumb.
I’d love to meet you, I’m also from Seattle…
Is it normal for you footage to be noisy and use a plug in to denoise it?
Yeah. Raw video bypasses any internal noise reduction. So you will need to do it in post. It’s just a part of the work flow.
@@RileyEndicott What noise reduction tool do you find best?
I was going to choose Neat video.
Hmm, everything else I’ve seen recommends placing skin tones at around 70 IRE…
Not for 10 bit log - that’s the traditional advice for a standard rec709 video signal. You will clip your highlights a lot faster than necessary.
Thanks mate. Music could be turned down 3-5db ;)
Why not just use false colour?
I do use false color. I mentioned it towards the end in my last point. 🙂
@@RileyEndicott I noticed that. I guess I meant to ask, don't you find false colour more accurate?
@@maxcarroll5670 it’s definitely a great tool! I don’t use it a ton but I know some people can’t live without it.