I also like to use clear elastic along the edge of the opening of a wrap bodice to keep the neckline from gaping and help it sit nicely along the chest.
One tip: don’t cut the elastic to the exact length, cut at least 2” longer; then mark the exact length with a pen, leaving the excess on each end. Then you have something to hang onto and you just trim when you are done.
Dear Johanna, thank you for the useful tips. I have used clear elastic only for necklines in knit tops so far. One hint I would like to share may be useful for some viewers: My sewing machine is more than 25 years old (a Singer from the early 90's). My normal presser foot tended to get stuck, and I cannot find a Teflon foot to fit the old darling. So I tape some adhesive tape (the semi-transparent stuff) to the bottom of the normal steel sewing foot, and this makes it glide quite easily.
Hi Johanna. Clear elastic is indeed so useful with stretch/knits. My advice would be to always STEAM it before cutting it to size. I mean really steam it. Iron shouldn't touch the elastic though, just hover the iron above it. The noname brands I have used tend to shrink so I preshrink with steam. And when attaching the clear elastic to place, I use a basting (long) straightstitch which I remove at the end.
Lazaros, Are you steaming before basting in place or after basting? And then you serge or zigzag. Thanks. Sometimes no name brands are all that can be purchased.
@@jojosewist8921 Hello there JoJo. I always steam before. As soon as I open the bag I lay it in parallel rows on the ironing board and steam. Once I put the clear elastic in hot water to preshrink but I find steaming more practical. When sewing I cut a longer piece (of the already shrunk elastic) than I need, say 3" for the beginning of the seam and 3" more at the end, so 6"/15cm total.
@@lazarosmilios thank you for your quick response. Your explanation makes so much sense, I appreciate your time and expertise, and willingness to share with a stranger. May you and yours stay safe.
Swekeys sewing tape can be purchase on Amazon in the U.S. It is good quality. Thank you again for the informative information on elastic-getting inspired to sew forward with some knit tops.
Thank you for the tips, Johanna. They are always wonderful. I have a Toyota serger and a Brother serger and both of them have a hole in the front of the presser foot that is for feeding elastic (or thin ribbon) through. You feed the elastic tail from the top of the hole down through and under the presser foot, then start sewing your seam. The elastic neatly feeds under the stitches. You can also pull the elastic and gather this way also. My 40 year old Toyota had this tip in the manual and I was glad that my Brother had the same opening in it's foot when I upgraded last fall. However I was surprised that this tip was not in the Brother manual, because it is an awesome and almost foolproof way to add clear elastic while serging.
I believe back in the past, Toyota, BabyLock, &Brother all made by same company. Makes me wonder if Baby Lock serge have that hole. Thanks for sharing.
@@vivlee3840 The Babylock serger foot has the slot too, but it is difficult to see if you don't know it's there! I use it for feeding elastic all the time. My old Juki had it too.
My favorite cartagan is falling apart and I want to make another one. I saw it has clear elastic and was intimidated by it because I don't know much about sewing. You've given me the confidence to finally try it. Thanks. Great video.
As always.......so many helpful tips.......I enjoy watching your tutorials and even though I’ve been sewing for many years......I welcome new ideas and information🤗🤗🤗 Thank you for sharing🥰
I was making a hat out of jersey and didn’t like the finishing. The seam was wavy, I was thinking about pressure foot pressure. While mulling over the pattern and my fabric choices. I do have clear elastic so I will be trying that!!
This is inspiring! I've used clear elastic for swimwear for years but these other applications, particularly for gathering and horizontal seam stabilization are exciting prospects. Thank you :-D
Thank you, that makes so happy to hear! I do want to keep the content super focused and concise even when I do longer videos, so hearing you say this means a lot!
I used it on the shoulders of my first ever knit top. It’s easy to use and definitely stops the stretch. Thanks for the other great suggestions. Ps. Been watching Rebekah Martinsson series. Northern Sweden is gorgeous.
Framilon And Mobilon, are both made from Polyurethane and should not be an irritation to the skin, they are, I believe, both breathable. Cheaper transparent Plastic, elastics are not usually breathable and do irritate the skin. Personally, I usually use Framilon, it is an Italian brand and is about 40 years old. I love using it. John Fox, Designer, Patterncutter and Teacher, in London.
Thank you again for another helpful tip video :) I'm so glad to see you are doing so well! I use clear elastic as you say to stabilize shoulder seams. I've used it to do ruching down the sides of a knit garment (top or skirt) when I want to create that effect. It's an outstanding notion for finishing necklines, armholes and wrap knit dresses and does a fantastic job of stabilizing and helping to hold a cross over in a wrap dress.
I use it to stabilize shoulders on wovens before felling the seam. I do a bit of elastic stretch as I sew on the neckline, so that there is a slight inwards stretch, then topstich with a double needle. Zero gapiing when I enlarge necklines on t-shirts or knit necklines.
Hi Johanna, explained very clear. Great video 👍. Thanks. Sometimes I even use the selvage strip for shoulder seams if I don't have clear elastic handy. My favorite is from Vlieseline. My Bernina Serger has little hole on the sewing foot where I can insert the clear elastic while serging.
I’ve just stitched clear elastic into the shoulder seams of a heavy, hand knit Aran sweater I made years ago. The shoulder seams used to droop so I really hope this will solve the problem.
I just love your info. I Always learn something when I watch you. I’m putting your jeans and activewear books on my Christmas list. 🤞🤞 😁 Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
My Babylock serger standard foot has a slot built it - it can be hard to see. I feed elastic in through the slot, and under the needles. Then add the piece to be sewn. I hold the elastic with slight tension and the two are sewn at the same time. You need to cut the elastic a little longer than for example the shoulder seam because you feed it in first.
Have you got any advice on what needle to use with clear elastic? I tried to attach some elastic to an ity knit type fabric yesterday and it just got sucked down. I was using a stretch 75 needle. I suspect it wasn't sharp enough to pierce the elastic though.... any advice?
Question, you said a few times not to sew the elastic so it touches your skin, but can't this elastic also be used at f.ex leg openings (touching the skin) on underwear/boxers to prevent the fabric from crawling up your leg?
These are all great ideas to use clear elastic with knits. Thank you! Question... Do you think it is possible to use clear elastic with woven fabric for Smocking??????????? Say for instance, using ce on the waist. In Canada prices for elastic thread are way too high. Thanks!
I don't understand how the elastic is used for gathers. I know you are not putting it in a casing. How do you manipulate the elastic and fabric together? Could you please do a video showing how to do this? Thanks so much.
@@dale3404 thank you, your response is so nice. I was being nosy I guess. But my mom says I can ask enough questions to make a preacher cuss. I truly wanted to know, for comparison reasons. Again thanks.
Use a longer strip, tape the end behind the presser foot (see my shoulder seam video ruclips.net/video/i40Cn3ma0bY/видео.html&lc ) Attach the beginning of the elastic to the fabric with some stitches (such as a zigzag ). Use an elastic that has a lot of stretch, as that differs a lot between different types. And practise of course :) Hope that helps!
I had this problem too - couldn’t do much with it at all. I’ve now read that these elastics are not all the same, but how do you distinguish between the different types?
Will the tape perish in temperature higher than 30 degrees Celsius? Also, do we have to be extremely careful when it comes to ironing and tumble - drying? Thank you for the video.
In my experience, drying has never been a problem for it. But you don't want to put a hot iron directly on it or it will melt. As long as there is at least 1 layer of fabric covering it and you don't leave the iron on that spot for longer than needed it should be just fine.
Yes, avoiding a hot iron is key. I mentioned this while recording the video, but I accidentally managed to record that section without the mic plugged in, and then I forgot to mention the heat info when I did the re-record! But 40 degrees Celsius is fine in my experience.
@@Thelaststitch thank you so much for your kind reply. I've never even seen this tape in shops as I hadn't been out now for a very long time. Another lockdown plus my life and I don't go out at all. Amazon probably has it I'd guess. Thank you again, can't wait to use it....one day. All the best.
I used clear elastic for several years in various items to realize that in time, they deteriorate bad. In the long run, they are a waste of time and money. I only use original elastics and have had no problem.
@@Thelaststitch Do they have a website? I'm in the EU. I always use clear elastic for stabilising knit shoulders and for gathering. I go through a lot of it and the Prym/Dritz work out expensive.
Several sewing teachers say you MUST stretch clear elastic out before you use it. Do you agree? It still maintains the stretch but doesn’t grow that way...?
In .my experience, it depends. The thicker one I show in the video has great recovery whereas tinner, more flimsy ones might need pre-stretching I've found
Clear elastic is unsustainable, toxic, and also highly allergenic for the 2% of the population like me allergic to "Elastoplast" / colophony / rosin, which includes also elastane / spandex / lycra / polyurethane / elastics. It causes angry, severely itchy red rashes which ooze and bleed (eczema). I really wish commercial clothing manufacturers would STOP putting this elastic in ALL even otherwise 100% GOTS / organic cotton garments. It is not required, not helpful, not sustainable, and highly toxic and allergenic. Please could you instead do a video on how to REMOVE said toxic, allergenic elastic out of all of the hundreds of garments we have to buy (to get otherwise GOTS / organic cotton garments, otherwise safe for allergies)?
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
I also like to use clear elastic along the edge of the opening of a wrap bodice to keep the neckline from gaping and help it sit nicely along the chest.
That is a great idea, my wrap dresses tend to gap, thanks
One tip: don’t cut the elastic to the exact length, cut at least 2” longer; then mark the exact length with a pen, leaving the excess on each end. Then you have something to hang onto and you just trim when you are done.
Brilliant!
Another great tip! Thank you
Dear Johanna, thank you for the useful tips. I have used clear elastic only for necklines in knit tops so far.
One hint I would like to share may be useful for some viewers: My sewing machine is more than 25 years old (a Singer from the early 90's). My normal presser foot tended to get stuck, and I cannot find a Teflon foot to fit the old darling. So I tape some adhesive tape (the semi-transparent stuff) to the bottom of the normal steel sewing foot, and this makes it glide quite easily.
Hi Johanna. Clear elastic is indeed so useful with stretch/knits. My advice would be to always STEAM it before cutting it to size. I mean really steam it. Iron shouldn't touch the elastic though, just hover the iron above it. The noname brands I have used tend to shrink so I preshrink with steam.
And when attaching the clear elastic to place, I use a basting (long) straightstitch which I remove at the end.
Lazaros, Are you steaming before basting in place or after basting? And then you serge or zigzag. Thanks. Sometimes no name brands are all that can be purchased.
@@jojosewist8921 Hello there JoJo. I always steam before. As soon as I open the bag I lay it in parallel rows on the ironing board and steam. Once I put the clear elastic in hot water to preshrink but I find steaming more practical.
When sewing I cut a longer piece (of the already shrunk elastic) than I need, say 3" for the beginning of the seam and 3" more at the end, so 6"/15cm total.
@@lazarosmilios thank you for your quick response. Your explanation makes so much sense, I appreciate your time and expertise, and willingness to share with a stranger. May you and yours stay safe.
Some of my store-bought knit tops and dresses have clear elastic in the shoulder or waist seams, and I never knew why... now I do! How clever!
Everything you wanted to know about clear elastic but didnt know who to ask.lol. Very informative. Thankyou so much. This is a game changer.
Swekeys sewing tape can be purchase on Amazon in the U.S. It is good quality. Thank you again for the informative information on elastic-getting inspired to sew forward with some knit tops.
Thank you for the tips, Johanna. They are always wonderful. I have a Toyota serger and a Brother serger and both of them have a hole in the front of the presser foot that is for feeding elastic (or thin ribbon) through. You feed the elastic tail from the top of the hole down through and under the presser foot, then start sewing your seam. The elastic neatly feeds under the stitches. You can also pull the elastic and gather this way also. My 40 year old Toyota had this tip in the manual and I was glad that my Brother had the same opening in it's foot when I upgraded last fall. However I was surprised that this tip was not in the Brother manual, because it is an awesome and almost foolproof way to add clear elastic while serging.
I believe back in the past, Toyota, BabyLock, &Brother all made by same company. Makes me wonder if Baby Lock serge have that hole. Thanks for sharing.
*Rushing to check Brother serger foot!! Thanks for that!!
@@vivlee3840 The Babylock serger foot has the slot too, but it is difficult to see if you don't know it's there! I use it for feeding elastic all the time. My old Juki had it too.
Thanks for the great information. My knowledge on clear elastic was so lacking! Very helpful video.
So happy to hear you found my tips useful, it's such a multi-functional notion that I always have in my stash!
Thank you for this video, I learned a lot. I never understand how something that stretches can help stabilise shoulder seam but now it makes sense!
My favorite cartagan is falling apart and I want to make another one. I saw it has clear elastic and was intimidated by it because I don't know much about sewing. You've given me the confidence to finally try it. Thanks. Great video.
Wow - I might get happy stretch sewing now with clear elastic. I have your book here in Australia.
Yay! Just try it on a few samples and test to get the feel of handling and properties and it's gonna be a breeze !
I keep forgetting two things: use it on shoulder seams and buy some because I keep running out. Thanks for the reminder!
As always.......so many helpful tips.......I enjoy watching your tutorials and even though I’ve been sewing for many years......I welcome new ideas and information🤗🤗🤗
Thank you for sharing🥰
I was making a hat out of jersey and didn’t like the finishing. The seam was wavy, I was thinking about pressure foot pressure. While mulling over the pattern and my fabric choices. I do have clear elastic so I will be trying that!!
This is inspiring! I've used clear elastic for swimwear for years but these other applications, particularly for gathering and horizontal seam stabilization are exciting prospects. Thank you :-D
Thank you for this video. I am sewing a lot of tricot. Always having problems with the neckline. This is a great help.
Your channel is the best. Thank you.
I never thought of using clear elastic. That is going to change.
Thank you for the clear elastic tips, much appreciated...
Love your tutorials. Straight to the point always and so helpful! Will switch to clear elastic for stabilizing should and waist seams.
Thank you, that makes so happy to hear! I do want to keep the content super focused and concise even when I do longer videos, so hearing you say this means a lot!
I love listening to your voice
Hi Johanna!! I don’t know much about clear elastic.. Thanks for all the amazing tips for its use....
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you. All your videos are informative and highly useful. Thank you again.
I used it on the shoulders of my first ever knit top. It’s easy to use and definitely stops the stretch. Thanks for the other great suggestions.
Ps. Been watching Rebekah Martinsson series. Northern Sweden is gorgeous.
Thanks for these tips. I am about to start making a wrap dress in stretch fabric so will put some at the waistband. Thanks for doing these videos
yay, adding the elastic in the waist made such a big difference on my wrap dress, so I can totally recommend it!
Thank you! You just solved the mystery of knits for me! 💕
Framilon And Mobilon, are both made from Polyurethane and should not be an irritation to the skin, they are, I believe, both breathable. Cheaper transparent Plastic, elastics are not usually breathable and do irritate the skin. Personally, I usually use Framilon, it is an Italian brand and is about 40 years old. I love using it.
John Fox, Designer, Patterncutter and Teacher, in London.
Thank you again for another helpful tip video :) I'm so glad to see you are doing so well! I use clear elastic as you say to stabilize shoulder seams. I've used it to do ruching down the sides of a knit garment (top or skirt) when I want to create that effect. It's an outstanding notion for finishing necklines, armholes and wrap knit dresses and does a fantastic job of stabilizing and helping to hold a cross over in a wrap dress.
I use it to stabilize shoulders on wovens before felling the seam. I do a bit of elastic stretch as I sew on the neckline, so that there is a slight inwards stretch, then topstich with a double needle. Zero gapiing when I enlarge necklines on t-shirts or knit necklines.
That sounds very interesting. I don’t quite understand at which point you use it.
Hi Johanna, explained very clear. Great video 👍. Thanks. Sometimes I even use the selvage strip for shoulder seams if I don't have clear elastic handy. My favorite is from Vlieseline. My Bernina Serger has little hole on the sewing foot where I can insert the clear elastic while serging.
I’ve just stitched clear elastic into the shoulder seams of a heavy, hand knit Aran sweater I made years ago. The shoulder seams used to droop so I really hope this will solve the problem.
Thank you for these tips. I will order some today
Thank you for the tips. As a new sewer it's great to watch these tips, thank you
I just ordered and received your Coverstitch book. You explain things so well and like all the pictures.
I just love your info. I Always learn something when I watch you. I’m putting your jeans and activewear books on my Christmas list. 🤞🤞 😁 Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Lovely video. Thank you for sharing
Always happy to share some tips!
Thank you so much! Great info! Now I’m off to purchase clear elastic in all sizes!
Wonderful tips and explanation...going to get the chevron patterned fusible bias one fore sure! Thank you.
Great informative video. Thank you!
This video is so helpful! Just this week I struggled with a stretched neckline. Thank you so much.
Great information! I’ve used this a few times. I also have a BabyLock serger. Do you use a special foot for sewing on the elastic?
My Babylock serger standard foot has a slot built it - it can be hard to see. I feed elastic in through the slot, and under the needles. Then add the piece to be sewn. I hold the elastic with slight tension and the two are sewn at the same time. You need to cut the elastic a little longer than for example the shoulder seam because you feed it in first.
Great tips. Cheers Mary
How well does it age? I had some, it yellowed and I worried that it had oxidized and would not hold up.
Great tip! Thanks
Have you got any advice on what needle to use with clear elastic? I tried to attach some elastic to an ity knit type fabric yesterday and it just got sucked down. I was using a stretch 75 needle. I suspect it wasn't sharp enough to pierce the elastic though.... any advice?
Would have liked to have seen the next step too, attaching this to the bodice..
Thank you for your clever ideas will defnitly try that
I love your tips as always!!! Thank you for sharing Johanna!!! 😉🤗
Fabulous info! Thank you.🥰🇨🇦
Question, you said a few times not to sew the elastic so it touches your skin, but can't this elastic also be used at f.ex leg openings (touching the skin) on underwear/boxers to prevent the fabric from crawling up your leg?
Do you use clear elastic in the shoulder straps of swimsuits? If so, do you tension it differently to leg holes?
Great tips!!
I love your tips!
Thank you for the tips!
Would you use clear elastic around the entire neck line? Or just the front neckline?
Thank you.
Really great tips. Thank you!
Please show how to use clear elastic on a cowl neckline. Thank You
very cleaver thank you so mutch !!
Happy to share!
These are all great ideas to use clear elastic with knits. Thank you!
Question... Do you think it is possible to use clear elastic with woven fabric
for Smocking??????????? Say for instance, using ce on the waist.
In Canada prices for elastic thread are way too high.
Thanks!
As for brand, I just buy 3/4 inch from a tailoring supply shop, so that I get good quality regardless of brands.
I don't understand how the elastic is used for gathers. I know you are not putting it in a casing. How do you manipulate the elastic and fabric together? Could you please do a video showing how to do this? Thanks so much.
I have an attachment for my sewing machine for elastic, as well as one for my serger.
And your brand and model is:_____?
@@jojosewist8921
Husqvarna D1 sewing machine and BabyLock Imagine serger
@@dale3404 thank you, your response is so nice. I was being nosy I guess. But my mom says I can ask enough questions to make a preacher cuss. I truly wanted to know, for comparison reasons. Again thanks.
@@jojosewist8921
No, I should have mentioned that when I posted. I was in a hurry. 😊
I bought clear elastic to use for gathers, but it’s really tough to stretch, so was difficult to hold both ends and stitch. Any advice please?
Use a longer strip, tape the end behind the presser foot (see my shoulder seam video ruclips.net/video/i40Cn3ma0bY/видео.html&lc ) Attach the beginning of the elastic to the fabric with some stitches (such as a zigzag ). Use an elastic that has a lot of stretch, as that differs a lot between different types. And practise of course :) Hope that helps!
I had this problem too - couldn’t do much with it at all. I’ve now read that these elastics are not all the same, but how do you distinguish between the different types?
If I’m putting on a neckband when and where do I add the clear elastic? Tia:0)
No need for clear elastic when using a separate neckband. The neckband is shorter than the neckline and keeps it in check that way 👍
I have seen another tutorial where they said you should stretch the elastic before using it around a neckline. What do you think?
Will the tape perish in temperature higher than 30 degrees Celsius?
Also, do we have to be extremely careful when it comes to ironing and tumble - drying?
Thank you for the video.
In my experience, drying has never been a problem for it. But you don't want to put a hot iron directly on it or it will melt. As long as there is at least 1 layer of fabric covering it and you don't leave the iron on that spot for longer than needed it should be just fine.
Yes, avoiding a hot iron is key. I mentioned this while recording the video, but I accidentally managed to record that section without the mic plugged in, and then I forgot to mention the heat info when I did the re-record! But 40 degrees Celsius is fine in my experience.
@@Thelaststitch thank you so much for your kind reply. I've never even seen this tape in shops as I hadn't been out now for a very long time. Another lockdown plus my life and I don't go out at all.
Amazon probably has it I'd guess.
Thank you again, can't wait to use it....one day.
All the best.
Hej! Vad heter clear elastic på svenska? Försöker hitta det i svenska nätbutiker men jag vet inte vad jag ska söka på för att få fram det.
I used clear elastic for several years in various items to realize that in time, they deteriorate bad. In the long run, they are a waste of time and money. I only use original elastics and have had no problem.
What brand do you use?
I mostly buy a no-name brand from a local seller here in Sweden who has great quality clear elastic. But Prym/Dritz also makes good clear elastic
@@Thelaststitch Do they have a website? I'm in the EU. I always use clear elastic for stabilising knit shoulders and for gathering. I go through a lot of it and the Prym/Dritz work out expensive.
I would imagine it would be great for stabilising hems on knit fabrics that want to roll up?
I have not tried that, but could be worth experimenting with!
Several sewing teachers say you MUST stretch clear elastic out before you use it. Do you agree? It still maintains the stretch but doesn’t grow that way...?
In .my experience, it depends. The thicker one I show in the video has great recovery whereas tinner, more flimsy ones might need pre-stretching I've found
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼❤️
Clear elastic is unsustainable, toxic, and also highly allergenic for the 2% of the population like me allergic to "Elastoplast" / colophony / rosin, which includes also elastane / spandex / lycra / polyurethane / elastics. It causes angry, severely itchy red rashes which ooze and bleed (eczema). I really wish commercial clothing manufacturers would STOP putting this elastic in ALL even otherwise 100% GOTS / organic cotton garments. It is not required, not helpful, not sustainable, and highly toxic and allergenic. Please could you instead do a video on how to REMOVE said toxic, allergenic elastic out of all of the hundreds of garments we have to buy (to get otherwise GOTS / organic cotton garments, otherwise safe for allergies)?
Great tips. Thank you!
Happy to hear you liked them 😊