For the Adapted Grant Foot Raise test, the standard values in cm do not seem to take the leg length into account. A tall inflexible person could score the same as a short flexible person.
You are correct. The raw data in the study only accounted for total height of the foot raise. However, additionally in the Draper study it mentions “after raw scores on each of the test measures were completed these were scaled for participant height to allow for individual differences in limb length.” So, when testing large groups (i.e. climbing teams) it is helpful to have the raw data and to also scale for height to account for individual limb length differences. However, one could also argue that the raw number is more important when climbing. For example, if there is a foot hold that is 110cm from a lower hold, regardless of a climber’s height, only the climber who could achieve 110cm can use the high foot hold without using an intermediate hold. For more information on the details for the study and methods, I’ve included the fully study below: Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9(1), 67-89.
@@bowmanclimbing7802 The scaled scores for the adapted grant foot raise weren't included in the Draper et al., 2009 paper. However they are available for the Draga Index with an average of 0.81 ± 0.07 Calculation for Draga Index: DI = (B-tro) / a Reference: B-tro: lower limb length (cm) a: length of the section between the calcaneal tuberosity and the ground (cm). I have gone ahead and included citation to the full research studies below for reference. There is a new large scale study coming out in 2021/2022 with additional tests and data, so stay tuned for sone updates. Hope that helps! Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9(1), 67-89. Draga, P., Ozimek, M., Krawczyk, M., Rokowski, R., Nowakowska, M., Ochwat, P., ... & Stanula, A. (2020). Importance and diagnosis of flexibility preparation of male sport climbers. International journal of environmental research and public health, 17(7), 2512.
@@TheClimbingDoctor ho, I hadn't made the link between abduction and, hum, abduction* My original comment was about the pronunciation though, when you say "A-B-duction". I've since heard Hooper pronounce it in the same way, and another YT guy say it like I would have said it, in one go like "abdominal". (*in french the word abduction only refers to that movement/muscle ; we have another word for kidnapping, although its etymology also refers to the act of lifting upwards : from latin "levare" instead of "abductio" - I know, this is all essential and passionating 🤓😉)
Got it, yeah, you could say it either way. The AB duction pronunciation is typically used in oral teaching scenarios to emphasize the difference between Ad duction.
Amazing video, thank you very much! Mobility is very underrated in climbing.
It really is!
For the Adapted Grant Foot Raise test, the standard values in cm do not seem to take the leg length into account. A tall inflexible person could score the same as a short flexible person.
You are correct. The raw data in the study only accounted for total height of the foot raise. However, additionally in the Draper study it mentions “after raw scores on each of the test measures were completed these were scaled for participant height to allow for individual differences in limb length.”
So, when testing large groups (i.e. climbing teams) it is helpful to have the raw data and to also scale for height to account for individual limb length differences.
However, one could also argue that the raw number is more important when climbing. For example, if there is a foot hold that is 110cm from a lower hold, regardless of a climber’s height, only the climber who could achieve 110cm can use the high foot hold without using an intermediate hold.
For more information on the details for the study and methods, I’ve included the fully study below:
Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9(1), 67-89.
Is there a way to use these "scaled values" to determine if someone needs to work on mobility? As a coach, it would be great to have benchmarks.
@@bowmanclimbing7802 The scaled scores for the adapted grant foot raise weren't included in the Draper et al., 2009 paper. However they are available for the Draga Index with an average of 0.81 ± 0.07
Calculation for Draga Index: DI = (B-tro) / a
Reference:
B-tro: lower limb length (cm)
a: length of the section between the calcaneal tuberosity and the ground (cm).
I have gone ahead and included citation to the full research studies below for reference. There is a new large scale study coming out in 2021/2022 with additional tests and data, so stay tuned for sone updates. Hope that helps!
Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9(1), 67-89.
Draga, P., Ozimek, M., Krawczyk, M., Rokowski, R., Nowakowska, M., Ochwat, P., ... & Stanula, A. (2020). Importance and diagnosis of flexibility preparation of male sport climbers. International journal of environmental research and public health, 17(7), 2512.
@@TheClimbingDoctor Thank you so much!
Is that how "abduction" is pronounced in english? (honest question, I'm surprised)
Haha, yeah. It's an odd word, but the medical term Abduction is the same word as "the action of taking someone away." Hope that helps.
@@TheClimbingDoctor ho, I hadn't made the link between abduction and, hum, abduction* My original comment was about the pronunciation though, when you say "A-B-duction". I've since heard Hooper pronounce it in the same way, and another YT guy say it like I would have said it, in one go like "abdominal".
(*in french the word abduction only refers to that movement/muscle ; we have another word for kidnapping, although its etymology also refers to the act of lifting upwards : from latin "levare" instead of "abductio" - I know, this is all essential and passionating 🤓😉)
Got it, yeah, you could say it either way. The AB duction pronunciation is typically used in oral teaching scenarios to emphasize the difference between Ad duction.