@@haylspa except I've already bought and painfully assembled so much of it :-(. Nema 23 steppers and drivers. 10mm supported rails, 1605 ball screws, tubular aluminum, 400W brushless spindle and electronics,
Hey Aurora, love the channel, love love love the channel! Sorry for bringing up an unrelated topic to the video, but can you tell Creality to put remote z axes height adjustment on the mobile app pleaseeee, thanks!
Just a heads up about cutting bits. The bits are ground from a standard blank diameter, be they metric or SAE. The router's collet will have a maximum diameter, often matching a size of the cutters to the power of the motor.
can you do a little tutorial on fusion on which post processor you use to switch from cam language to g-code language and which start g-code you use I can't get it to work well Thank you
Certainly better than the previous model especially the 710W router but there's still flex in the head, less so with taller workpieces where there is less leverage going on, Ideally there would be a longer mount connecting x and y axis but that would result in longer rails and so higher cost, for a "budget" machine it's not at all bad
Good video as always. Way too slow for aluminum cutting though, you can easily do 0.6mm depth and 900mm/min speed, and get better results. That's on the slow side.
With this having a 100 mm height, I wonder if there is or will be a possible rotary axis that could be used with it. I know it would be an extra cost and would require altering the connection to one of the axis, but it could be a useful addition. And I know some people will pitch a fit and scream "3d printer" but I also wonder how well this would work with cast resin blocks. It should be ok, I just wonder what kind of settings it would require.
Try a different bits for both Metal and Wood, the defaults are always going to be weaker and Always oil up first when using Routers of any kind. Try 1400-1600 for wood and like 700 for Aluminum, Metal
you're going way too slow. Your bit is getting hot, and the cutting edges get worn off. For the wood you could easily go 2000mm/min, and for the aluminium 900mm/min is a minimum.
That might work, but I found a source that was quite a bit less aggressive. He was using a 1/8" carbide, single-flute endmill to cut 6061-T6. Slotting: Feed Rate: 12 IPM (305 mm/min) Speed: 10k RPM DOC: .012" (.305 mm) Pocketing: Feed Rate: 20 IPM (508 mm/min) Speed: 10k RPM DOC: .012" (.305 mm) Stepover: .0625" (1.59 mm) Adaptive Miling: Feed Rate: 25 IPM (635 mm/min) Speed: 10k RPM DOC: .036" (.91 mm) Stepover: .015" (.381 mm) He admitted that his settings were a bit conservative, so I can't say you're wrong.
The feeds and speeds are set in the g-code file. You define the feeds and speed when you program the cutter paths with the CAM software ($$$). The machines come with free g-code senders only. This router motor she is using, the RPM is set manually with the dial.
You may well be able to add a relay to start/stop the spindle with the G-code but the speed is regulated on the router itself. To do it through the G-code would need major tinkering.
They're still inexperienced with machining. In a previous video they accidentally rapidded through an aluminum part, proving that these machines can chew through aluminum like it's not there. They don't realize that the main reason the cutter is "wearing out" is because they're melting aluminum onto it with these minuscule chips. Sharp tool + crap = dull tool 1) Reduce spindle speed and/or increase feed rate. This is cutting bit, not an abrasive bit. It needs to cut thicker chips. 2) Cool the cutter with compressed air (if coolant is too messy). For non-sparking metals you could take your chances with isopropanol, but that's a fire and explosion risk that your parents probably won't tolerate.
@@arbjful For roughing, they should increase feed rate while keeping the spindle speed the same. This will increase the chip thickness, resulting in faster machining, with less heating. This should reduce the risk of creating a built-up edge on the cutter of melted aluminum (especially since liquid coolant isn't used). If the spindle speed is unstable (stalls or bogs down), then both feedrate and spindle speed should then be reduced proportionally. Unfortunately, the cutter could get destroyed in the process. Instead of starting with max spindle speed, and ramping up feedrate, a safer way to find the ideal speeds and feeds would be to start them both low and ramp them both up together. That way, you maintain an appropriate chip thickness throughout the process. However, their rapid-move error already proves that these spindles have enough power to take big bites, so there doesn't seem to much much risk of stalling (at these shallow depths-of-cut). An alternative way to increase material removal rate is to increase depth-of-cut. This method is viable, even if chip thickness and spindle speed are already maxed. Higher MRRs result in higher cutting forces. Besides stalling the spindle, large cutter forces result in accuracy-compromising deflection. This is why finishing passes are programmed to remove much less material than roughing passes.
Think about using a lubricant when cutting metal - it will reduce cutting friction and cool the cutting area.
To solve the flexible bed issue, I got some metal c channel and screwed it in on the underside of the boards. They are nice and stiff now
Thanks for another great review. This looks like a good starter/hobbyist machine. Definitely worth considering.
Add a mist coolant spray to the cutter so it doesn't melt the aluminum as it cuts
and faster feed rate.
Nice kit. I wish it was around before I started building my DIY system.
a cnc kit like this should be the helper to make your own diy cnc your DIY is going to better if you know what your doing
@@haylspa except I've already bought and painfully assembled so much of it :-(.
Nema 23 steppers and drivers. 10mm supported rails, 1605 ball screws, tubular aluminum, 400W brushless spindle and electronics,
Hey Aurora, love the channel, love love love the channel! Sorry for bringing up an unrelated topic to the video, but can you tell Creality to put remote z axes height adjustment on the mobile app pleaseeee, thanks!
Just a heads up about cutting bits. The bits are ground from a standard blank diameter, be they metric or SAE. The router's collet will have a maximum diameter, often matching a size of the cutters to the power of the motor.
Great review，Nice machine🚀
Great review 👍
Cheers
can you do a little tutorial on fusion on which post processor you use to switch from cam language to g-code language and which start g-code you use I can't get it to work well
Thank you
Certainly better than the previous model especially the 710W router but there's still flex in the head, less so with taller workpieces where there is less leverage going on, Ideally there would be a longer mount connecting x and y axis but that would result in longer rails and so higher cost, for a "budget" machine it's not at all bad
Good video as always. Way too slow for aluminum cutting though, you can easily do 0.6mm depth and 900mm/min speed, and get better results. That's on the slow side.
Is there any mention of the specs of the screws and stepper motor size?
10mm lead screws and Nema 17 48mm stepper motors
@@AuroraTech Oh, I think I'll keep working my build then :-). Thank you AuroraTech!
you have to go faster feeds when cutting aluminum that will give you a better performance overall!
With this having a 100 mm height, I wonder if there is or will be a possible rotary axis that could be used with it. I know it would be an extra cost and would require altering the connection to one of the axis, but it could be a useful addition. And I know some people will pitch a fit and scream "3d printer" but I also wonder how well this would work with cast resin blocks. It should be ok, I just wonder what kind of settings it would require.
Genmitsu's 4040 series supports 4 axes, the true 4-th axis.
Can this cut the bottom of sneaker rubber soles?
In terms of material hardness it's perfectly good to cutting
Great review. Their software should def control power to the router, hopefully they’ll sort that. cheers
It's a router...
I didn'T see Acrylic and parameters?
👍🏻👍🏻
Try a different bits for both Metal and Wood, the defaults are always going to be weaker and Always oil up first when using Routers of any kind. Try 1400-1600 for wood and like 700 for Aluminum, Metal
Thank you for the video. Do you know if the 4040 Aluminum & MDF Hybrid Spoilboard for 4040-PRO Series will work on the Max?
Riddler secret identity reveal?
you're going way too slow. Your bit is getting hot, and the cutting edges get worn off. For the wood you could easily go 2000mm/min, and for the aluminium 900mm/min is a minimum.
That might work, but I found a source that was quite a bit less aggressive. He was using a 1/8" carbide, single-flute endmill to cut 6061-T6.
Slotting:
Feed Rate: 12 IPM (305 mm/min)
Speed: 10k RPM
DOC: .012" (.305 mm)
Pocketing:
Feed Rate: 20 IPM (508 mm/min)
Speed: 10k RPM
DOC: .012" (.305 mm)
Stepover: .0625" (1.59 mm)
Adaptive Miling:
Feed Rate: 25 IPM (635 mm/min)
Speed: 10k RPM
DOC: .036" (.91 mm)
Stepover: .015" (.381 mm)
He admitted that his settings were a bit conservative, so I can't say you're wrong.
I don't get it, if Genmitsu supplies a router why can't they include the capability for software to control the power and speeds?
The feeds and speeds are set in the g-code file. You define the feeds and speed when you program the cutter paths with the CAM software ($$$). The machines come with free g-code senders only. This router motor she is using, the RPM is set manually with the dial.
Because it's a router, not a spindle...
You may well be able to add a relay to start/stop the spindle with the G-code but the speed is regulated on the router itself. To do it through the G-code would need major tinkering.
They're still inexperienced with machining. In a previous video they accidentally rapidded through an aluminum part, proving that these machines can chew through aluminum like it's not there. They don't realize that the main reason the cutter is "wearing out" is because they're melting aluminum onto it with these minuscule chips. Sharp tool + crap = dull tool
1) Reduce spindle speed and/or increase feed rate. This is cutting bit, not an abrasive bit. It needs to cut thicker chips.
2) Cool the cutter with compressed air (if coolant is too messy). For non-sparking metals you could take your chances with isopropanol, but that's a fire and explosion risk that your parents probably won't tolerate.
If feed rate is increased then spindle speed should also be increased?
@@arbjful The spindle was already fast.
@@AwestrikeFearofGods so the feed rate also needs to be increased to match the cutting rate?
@@arbjful For roughing, they should increase feed rate while keeping the spindle speed the same. This will increase the chip thickness, resulting in faster machining, with less heating. This should reduce the risk of creating a built-up edge on the cutter of melted aluminum (especially since liquid coolant isn't used). If the spindle speed is unstable (stalls or bogs down), then both feedrate and spindle speed should then be reduced proportionally. Unfortunately, the cutter could get destroyed in the process.
Instead of starting with max spindle speed, and ramping up feedrate, a safer way to find the ideal speeds and feeds would be to start them both low and ramp them both up together. That way, you maintain an appropriate chip thickness throughout the process. However, their rapid-move error already proves that these spindles have enough power to take big bites, so there doesn't seem to much much risk of stalling (at these shallow depths-of-cut).
An alternative way to increase material removal rate is to increase depth-of-cut. This method is viable, even if chip thickness and spindle speed are already maxed. Higher MRRs result in higher cutting forces. Besides stalling the spindle, large cutter forces result in accuracy-compromising deflection. This is why finishing passes are programmed to remove much less material than roughing passes.
@@AwestrikeFearofGods thanks for the guidance