Great video, really helpful. I've got a '79 GS750 (similar engine layout being an 8-valve cylinder) and I'm doing my valve shims for the first time. Your video is the first (and so far only) one to show clearly the whole process including the maths. Great stuff. Cheers!
For future reference, I'd use a micrometer instead of Vernier caliper for the shims, many can wear further in and not wear on the edges due to where the cam meet the shims. Not sure whether it has in your case but be wary of this as you could get a false reading. Great build keep it up.
So stoked I found this channel. Can't wait to see your project finally come together! Just bought a 77 GS550 a few months ago. This will help me every step of the way! Great videos and really well done. You're the man!
Another great video. As you said the electronic ignition is fairly simple. You seem like a bright guy so as you educate yourself about carburetors jetting won't be the black art you said it was. Looking forward to see you riding it!
Super lucky that you gave that little shim pulling tool! The darn shims on my vfr have buckets keeping them in, so you have to take the came out for sure.
As you stated, the range for valve clearance on the Suzuki GS 8 valve bikes is .03 mm to .08 mm. Over time, the clearance will shrink. When changing shims, you should be aiming for the upper end of the range. If you shoot for .03 mm, you will be out of spec much sooner than if you shoot for .08 mm. In your case, your clearances were too large. That is unusual. Some previous owner must have used some shims that were too thin.
+jsandidge1 interesting, I did think that the wear would do that also but following the Haynes manually it says to go with the smallest, I've read that build up and wear on the cams could increase the gap. But good thought about adjusting for either or, maybe they should say to put it in the middle for either to happen
Try this website members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ There is a really good tutorial on changing your shims. You can also download a factory service manual for your bike there. There are some differences between the Suzuki factory manual and the Haynes manual. I would trust the factory manual over Haynes or Clymer. You can also check the forums at www.thegsresources.com. There are many threads on this subject.
jsandidge1 is correct. You should at least shoot for the middle of the range (.05/.06mm) to give you wiggle room, but the gap will shrink like he said, so shooting for smaller clearance will give you the most life out of your tune up. Not to mention give you the most (safe) lift out of your intake valves which is really good.
@@FooDude2011 by your own logic, if the clearances will shrink (due to wear on the valve seats, particularly exhaust), you should aim to set them at the wider end of the range.
Hi, Great video! I also own a GS550E 1979, pre diaphram carb model. You checked the valve clearance with the cam lobe in the vertical position, my manual states the gap can also be checked with the lobe horizontal. My problem is I am getting a variation between the two. For example I have one where the gap is within tolerance when vertical but tight when hoizontal. ( and visa versa) I guess the important thing is there is the minimum clearance regardless of cam position when on the plain section of the cam or will that cause them to rattle? On the other hand the valve may not be fully closed if I leave them tight which is even worse ? Your input would be appreciated. Thanks Rob
I don’t have the best memory... what’s the reasoning for putting in a new ignition system? Fired up good with the stock setup! Just needed the valves adjusted and a good jet tune up!
I wasn't too happy with the points, there was something bugging me about their timing, never mind how accurate or how long I played with them, so a DynoTek is the hassle free option.
hey, i have a Question, on my manual says that the clearens both for the inlet and exhaust is between 00.3-0.08 also, do you know what clearens worked for you on the exhaust ? the same as the inlet? would it work to put inlet and exhaust clearens on 0.08? hmmm
All I want at this stage is to see the GS550 running there has been too many back and forth because of the CX500 I wish you would prioritise mate what about the powder coating where is it at?
It's a long process so I'm trying to show the real side of building, that it does take time and a lot of back and forth to fix things, I think there are a lot of build videos out there that make it look a lot simpler from start to finish, whereas this is the reality of trying to bring a bike back to life that hasn't ran since 1995!. The CX is at the powdercoaters now but the CX was only something to work on whilst I source these extra parts and save up money for them, I think about £500 has been spent on the GS in the last couple of months alone.
hello that such a friend me fusta your page and excellent videos of motorcycles ... you know I want you to help me and my guinea pig my motorcycle Suzuki Gs550 I would like to know how much are the calibration currencies of both admission and escape greetings.
Use a micrometer, not a caliper. Using calipers on the shims gives a general thickness. Micrometer will give more accurate measurements, as well as show any low/high spots.
Great video, really helpful. I've got a '79 GS750 (similar engine layout being an 8-valve cylinder) and I'm doing my valve shims for the first time. Your video is the first (and so far only) one to show clearly the whole process including the maths. Great stuff. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and all the best
For future reference, I'd use a micrometer instead of Vernier caliper for the shims, many can wear further in and not wear on the edges due to where the cam meet the shims. Not sure whether it has in your case but be wary of this as you could get a false reading. Great build keep it up.
book says not to use the magnet as they could magnetize the shim causing debris to collect on the shim which can be a big issue for the bike later
Sometimes we go against the book 🤣🤣
@forthebold 😂
@@forthebold mainly put this in for other folks. 😂
So stoked I found this channel. Can't wait to see your project finally come together! Just bought a 77 GS550 a few months ago. This will help me every step of the way! Great videos and really well done. You're the man!
Thanks, glad you found it also, all the best on your GS550
Another great video. As you said the electronic ignition is fairly simple. You seem like a bright guy so as you educate yourself about carburetors jetting won't be the black art you said it was. Looking forward to see you riding it!
+Rob Green I hope that it'll all pull together with these new jets when they arrive.
cant wait to see this bike running and onboard riding video around the mountain road will be awesome! goodluck!
+Raf Ridh hopefully soon.
Super lucky that you gave that little shim pulling tool! The darn shims on my vfr have buckets keeping them in, so you have to take the came out for sure.
+Shazy Satania yeah when they're more complex it's a bigger job. At least Suzuki thought of one idea here
For The Bold - dreegez for sure. My old GS450 was nothing at all in comparison! Looking forward to seeing your bikes finished c:
Can't wait for it to be complete!!
+Racer Brat me neither. Hopefully soon
As you stated, the range for valve clearance on the Suzuki GS 8 valve bikes is .03 mm to .08 mm. Over time, the clearance will shrink. When changing shims, you should be aiming for the upper end of the range. If you shoot for .03 mm, you will be out of spec much sooner than if you shoot for .08 mm. In your case, your clearances were too large. That is unusual. Some previous owner must have used some shims that were too thin.
+jsandidge1 interesting, I did think that the wear would do that also but following the Haynes manually it says to go with the smallest, I've read that build up and wear on the cams could increase the gap. But good thought about adjusting for either or, maybe they should say to put it in the middle for either to happen
Try this website members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
There is a really good tutorial on changing your shims. You can also download a factory service manual for your bike there. There are some differences between the Suzuki factory manual and the Haynes manual. I would trust the factory manual over Haynes or Clymer. You can also check the forums at www.thegsresources.com. There are many threads on this subject.
jsandidge1 is correct. You should at least shoot for the middle of the range (.05/.06mm) to give you wiggle room, but the gap will shrink like he said, so shooting for smaller clearance will give you the most life out of your tune up. Not to mention give you the most (safe) lift out of your intake valves which is really good.
@@FooDude2011 by your own logic, if the clearances will shrink (due to wear on the valve seats, particularly exhaust), you should aim to set them at the wider end of the range.
Just did my gs1100 today. Definitely get a magnet haha 100% get a magnet.
🤣🤣
Looks good. Hope you had a good Distinguished Gentlemans Ride too. We had a small turnout of 14 riders, I posted up a vid of it last night.
+ChaoticDetour I didn't get the chance to go out. I'll check the vid out
Thank you a lot! I´m sure this will help me with my GS500 Valve clearance adjustment.
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Excellent. Thanks for subscribing
Hi, Great video!
I also own a GS550E 1979, pre diaphram carb model.
You checked the valve clearance with the cam lobe in the vertical position, my manual states the gap can also be checked with the lobe horizontal. My problem is I am getting a variation between the two. For example I have one where the gap is within tolerance when vertical but tight when hoizontal. ( and visa versa) I guess the important thing is there is the minimum clearance regardless of cam position when on the plain section of the cam or will that cause them to rattle? On the other hand the valve may not be fully closed if I leave them tight which is even worse ? Your input would be appreciated. Thanks Rob
I tend to stick the way I have done it but many might know more.
I don’t have the best memory... what’s the reasoning for putting in a new ignition system? Fired up good with the stock setup! Just needed the valves adjusted and a good jet tune up!
I wasn't too happy with the points, there was something bugging me about their timing, never mind how accurate or how long I played with them, so a DynoTek is the hassle free option.
hey, i have a Question, on my manual says that the clearens both for the inlet and exhaust is between 00.3-0.08 also, do you know what clearens worked for you on the exhaust ? the same as the inlet? would it work to put inlet and exhaust clearens on 0.08? hmmm
I've ensured they're both within those tolerances and work
wow that red really pops
What it's effects ??
And which valve u check Intel or outlet valve
+nitin walia poor running conditions really. And both exhaust and intake valves
Good for thought but every manual I’ve read says absolutely do not use a magnet
I can't imagine it would do too much damage.
Hey man... what happened to de Cx500?!?!?!?
+Cristobal Landaeta still on going. Time and money slows it down but I'll see what I can get done this week
yeah i know!! my cx500 its been in the workshop since march... time and money!! well lets hope its done soon!
where can I get the shims for my gs550 ?
Dime City Cycles stock them
All I want at this stage is to see the GS550 running there has been too many back and forth because of the CX500 I wish you would prioritise mate what about the powder coating where is it at?
It's a long process so I'm trying to show the real side of building, that it does take time and a lot of back and forth to fix things, I think there are a lot of build videos out there that make it look a lot simpler from start to finish, whereas this is the reality of trying to bring a bike back to life that hasn't ran since 1995!. The CX is at the powdercoaters now but the CX was only something to work on whilst I source these extra parts and save up money for them, I think about £500 has been spent on the GS in the last couple of months alone.
The measuring tool you're trying to name is called a digital vernier caliper.
the rabbit hole......just wanted to replace gasket. now the muck around with this.....whats next?
So much more
hello that such a friend me fusta your page and excellent videos of motorcycles ... you know I want you to help me and my guinea pig my motorcycle Suzuki Gs550 I would like to know how much are the calibration currencies of both admission and escape greetings.
Are you turning the engine the wrong way ? It should be clockwise.
Use a micrometer, not a caliper. Using calipers on the shims gives a general thickness. Micrometer will give more accurate measurements, as well as show any low/high spots.
Vash Spiegel bollocks callipers are more than accurate enough for this job stop complicating matters with nonsense
My issue is going to be the math part (I'm one of the autistic people who ISN'T good at math lol). Trying to find what I need.