Carbs can have there issues and it could be something as simple as a vacuum leak to internal issues, so always check the easy first, for a vacuum leak try spaying either starting fluid or WD 40 around the base of carb, and be careful because it’s highly flammable, if you notice a change in the way it runs you found a leak, If that didn’t work check the fuel filter that’s at the card behind the large nut, the bottom line is rebuilding a carb is easy too , the smallest of particles can block it from functioning properly. If you want a smooth running engine take the time and do it right, best of luck hope this helps someone
fun to read all marine engineers experts, my problem was for example the acceleration wire which caused high idling but the symptoms came only when the engine was hot not when the engine was cold. Clearly, there can be many different causes for similar symptoms
Welcome to the HELL CLUB of owning these old motors. You could have carb issues, vaccum leaks, points way off, timing off distributor play and it is a pretty endless list and even after you replace, rebuild and do all that it still runs like your video.... Good luck good training for a mechanic as it never really gets fixed. Brand New Carb does wonders.
the nice thing about a carb it is a simple system that anyone can learn and understand. it does not need a ecm or sensors or any of that . the issue is that people think they are the way of the past. but they really are the same as efi but it is like you have to not have a ecm adjusting things to allow the operator to not screw up.. that carb is based on the rochestor 2 jet that was used on cars for ever till the 80s. it kills me to see this back the idle screw down and chk air/fuel screw set at 1 1/2 out and chk that timing to start.
Your choke is out of adjustment look at the arrow mark it should line up with the marks on the top and it will have about a 1/8 gap so it shouldn’t close all the way, set it when it’s cold and adjust the idle when it’s warm
That sounds normal brother. Just play with your idle speed. Your choke SHOULD be open a slight amount when cold, like yours is, to like a tiny bit of air through until it opens. Otherwise it’s sounding good actually. Cheers. 🇨🇦👍🏼
I'm sure you've sorted it by now, but mine does/did the same thing, so I added marine grease to all the linkages and it helped a lot. It would get stuck idling high after running hot. I'm assuming you've done all the timing/idle screw mixture tests.
Our boat will start ok when cold, runs great on the open water, but after warming up the motor will not stay running at idle. Does this motor have an idle control valve? Any suggestions? Thanks!! :)
Most of what I’ve read, you have to do everything with the engine up to temp. Might have been “cold” adjusted and then when engine warmed up it’s a different animal.
Mine has been sitting since fall,seafoam in the tank, no water in the water separator, but will not start.choke is working, but starter fluid won't even get it to fire.its cranking fine
my butterfly valve doesnt close all the way either, I was told an electric component will take care of that when running. not sure how true that is. Did you figure this out?
Matt somethingorother I took the butterfly choke off and I start it with a lot of gas in the carb and high throttle. I can make a video tomorrow showing you how I start it with no choke if you're interested
i know im a year late lol but the butterfly for the choke is supposed to stay closed. when u fire the motor up it pulls it open it desiged to work like that
Hi, I just got same boat which you have,but I can not see all label of switches (6) from my dashboard ,would you tell me what are they for from top down ,please? Thank you .
To be honest the only thing that would really solve your problem is to get a boat with a 4.3 V6, the 4 cylinders are the worst starting engines. Even if they run good the come no where close to a poor running V6!
Timing gun. There's a mark on the crank pulley and there's a bracket on the block that has marks with timing 0° and +/- degrees. Rotate the distributor cap to offset the timing.
@@BEERSnGEARS Hey man. The comment about the exhaust has me puzzled. I have tried so hard to understand the exhaust system on this engine. Seems like opinions are all over the place whether the bellows is needed at all, does it need to be connected if one end comes loose, Can you replace the bellows with a much simpler exhaust tube? I think he commented because when you revved the engine, it seemed like the exhaust was coming from the pipes - bypassing the bellows. Let me know what you know and think (and/or anyone else) about this whole issue. It would really help me.
Starts boat.. proceeds to rev the piss out of it 4 seconds in... Wonders why he's having "engine issues".. seriously dude? The engine sounds fine. Quit reving it out of water.
Carbs can have there issues and it could be something as simple as a vacuum leak to internal issues, so always check the easy first, for a vacuum leak try spaying either starting fluid or WD 40 around the base of carb, and be careful because it’s highly flammable, if you notice a change in the way it runs you found a leak, If that didn’t work check the fuel filter that’s at the card behind the large nut, the bottom line is rebuilding a carb is easy too , the smallest of particles can block it from functioning properly. If you want a smooth running engine take the time and do it right, best of luck hope this helps someone
fun to read all marine engineers experts, my problem was for example the acceleration wire which caused high idling but the symptoms came only when the engine was hot not when the engine was cold.
Clearly, there can be many different causes for similar symptoms
Welcome to the HELL CLUB of owning these old motors. You could have carb issues, vaccum leaks, points way off, timing off distributor play and it is a pretty endless list and even after you replace, rebuild and do all that it still runs like your video.... Good luck good training for a mechanic as it never really gets fixed. Brand New Carb does wonders.
sounds like it's idling fine. straight exhaust 4 cyl is going to sound a little "chunky".
imha
the nice thing about a carb it is a simple system that anyone can learn and understand. it does not need a ecm or sensors or any of that . the issue is that people think they are the way of the past. but they really are the same as efi but it is like you have to not have a ecm adjusting things to allow the operator to not screw up.. that carb is based on the rochestor 2 jet that was used on cars for ever till the 80s. it kills me to see this back the idle screw down and chk air/fuel screw set at 1 1/2 out and chk that timing to start.
Your choke is out of adjustment look at the arrow mark it should line up with the marks on the top and it will have about a 1/8 gap so it shouldn’t close all the way, set it when it’s cold and adjust the idle when it’s warm
That sounds normal brother. Just play with your idle speed. Your choke SHOULD be open a slight amount when cold, like yours is, to like a tiny bit of air through until it opens. Otherwise it’s sounding good actually. Cheers. 🇨🇦👍🏼
I thought it sounded and started very well! Yes, the Idle is high, I would just drop the idle
Adjust throttle cable barrel... doesn't matter what direction you turn your idle screw if the cable is incorrectly adjusted...
Excellent response and recommendation had the same problem and this was it
Id just change the blinker fluid and maybe pull the head a few times to check if the oil is milky.
Suspecting carb. Run fuel stabilizer and clean ur carb out. Then adjust fuel air mixture. Those carb are a POS. I have the same problem.
I'm sure you've sorted it by now, but mine does/did the same thing, so I added marine grease to all the linkages and it helped a lot. It would get stuck idling high after running hot. I'm assuming you've done all the timing/idle screw mixture tests.
Our boat will start ok when cold, runs great on the open water, but after warming up the motor will not stay running at idle. Does this motor have an idle control valve? Any suggestions? Thanks!! :)
Most of what I’ve read, you have to do everything with the engine up to temp. Might have been “cold” adjusted and then when engine warmed up it’s a different animal.
i have one too and it has rough idle at start but i know the choke needs to open slightly when cold to allow air to pass through, it is set correctly.
is your exhaust bellows missing?
Mine has been sitting since fall,seafoam in the tank, no water in the water separator, but will not start.choke is working, but starter fluid won't even get it to fire.its cranking fine
Check for spark, maybe the distributor cap has gotten some rust. Check the neutral safety switch as well
Likely as simple as the ignition coil.
You definitely have an ignition issue
Fuel filter in pump on side of motor or cap and rotor is where I would start
loosen fuel line at carburetor see if bubbles come out,if so vapor is present
my butterfly valve doesnt close all the way either, I was told an electric component will take care of that when running. not sure how true that is. Did you figure this out?
Matt somethingorother I took the butterfly choke off and I start it with a lot of gas in the carb and high throttle. I can make a video tomorrow showing you how I start it with no choke if you're interested
That would be very helpful thanks!
i know im a year late lol but the butterfly for the choke is supposed to stay closed. when u fire the motor up it pulls it open it desiged to work like that
sounds just like mine.They need to be warmed up for 3 minutes
Hi,
I just got same boat which you have,but I can not see all label of switches (6) from my dashboard ,would you tell me what are they for from top down ,please? Thank you .
Dump a can of seafoam in the tank and run it
New subscriber have no water coming from prop
try to get more air to motor possible vapor lock, gas boiling
i had an high idle problem, it turned out the water shutter had burned in 1/2 and blocking exaust,the motor couldnt breathe
Oh crap, mine were completely gone. But I had the whole outdrive and exhaust apart and got all the pieces I could find out. And it still did it.
Pretty easy to see that you’re choke adjustment is off that’s why island hi
Nothing is wrong quit messing with it.
Adjust the choke
Mine sounds rougher when motor is up a Lil .
On older engines don't run water first as water might get in to cylinders exhaust pressure keeps it out.yo
No, thats so not true
Ya, not true
Totally wrong
good way to burn out an impeller
Wrong, good way to burn up water impeller
Bro take it into the marina for a tune up. They'll fix it for a cheap price unless you know what your doing
To be honest the only thing that would really solve your problem is to get a boat with a 4.3 V6, the 4 cylinders are the worst starting engines. Even if they run good the come no where close to a poor running V6!
I have the same boat my idols exactly the same but I need to adjust my timing hard to start when it’s hot does anybody know how to time this motor
Timing gun. There's a mark on the crank pulley and there's a bracket on the block that has marks with timing 0° and +/- degrees. Rotate the distributor cap to offset the timing.
BEERS 'n GEARS Do you know what the timing is
@@josephbonica8571 www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/mercruiser-engine-timing
Your missing the exhaust boot to your engine.
You mean the exhaust Bellow? It's there
@@BEERSnGEARS Hey man. The comment about the exhaust has me puzzled. I have tried so hard to understand the exhaust system on this engine. Seems like opinions are all over the place whether the bellows is needed at all, does it need to be connected if one end comes loose, Can you replace the bellows with a much simpler exhaust tube? I think he commented because when you revved the engine, it seemed like the exhaust was coming from the pipes - bypassing the bellows. Let me know what you know and think (and/or anyone else) about this whole issue. It would really help me.
Think that is how mine sounds lol
Starts boat.. proceeds to rev the piss out of it 4 seconds in... Wonders why he's having "engine issues".. seriously dude? The engine sounds fine. Quit reving it out of water.
Oh yeah man, it's perfectly good for the outdrice to throw it in gear at 1300 RPMs. Make a video of you doing that with your car and let me watch
Back idle screw out until it's idleing around 6k to 7k
600 rpm to 650 rpm
Any idea on where to find a long block for this motor?
eBay has one
I have a engine
Jim Cox still have it?
ruclips.net/video/SrSitue3XMc/видео.html this might help if you haven't fixed it yet.
Lower the motor
Where’s ur regulator