@@alexeyorlov9639 There is a good run-down on wood glues and there uses/properties here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue . I grew up using polyvinyl acetate (white) glue, but switched to aliphatic resin (yellow) glue about thirty years ago. It works well for most applications. The desk I'm sitting at I built over two decades ago and has never needed repair. Both white and yellow glues have similar strengths when fully cured, but the yellow glue has superior initial grip, cures faster, can be sanded, and is less sensitive to temperature.
I almost passed this by, but when I saw a border collie and a wood-handled hammer, I was hooked. My old dog is gone, but I'm still swinging a 13 ounce Plumb. Your tips are great - using grit to keep glued pieces from slipping when they're clamped is my favorite - but your ability to explain and teach them is even better. Thank you.
Most welcome. Have had a border collie (or two, or three) all my life; wouldn't feel right if there wasn't someone dropping a Frisbee at my feet every five minutes.
@@asdfgoogle Bella talks to me. I can't understand her most of the time, but she actually attempts to form words rather than barking. How could someone like that be anything else than a "someone."
@@WorkshopCompanion hahaha. I totally understand. My baby girl, Nina (20lbs sheltie), she often does the same thing. But boy does she like to bark. So that's what I get most of the time! Cheers!
That was a strong end grain glue job! Another type of grit you can use to keep wood from sliding around on the glue is salt. That wont dull a saw blade as much as sand paper grit and works really well.
Might try using epsom salt, I came across a scientific article that tried multiple additives to pva glue. One of the additives with positive result was magnesium sulphate, as a purified epsom salt. I remember it was a fairly small amount, so just enough for traction should have good results...I think I'll try it anyway. Have a good day.
I was also taught to avoid glueing end grain to end grain and then discovered this trick myself, however i recently watched a RUclips video where wood was clued together in different ways including end to end. Mechanical pressure was then applied to the joints to bend break them and readings taken at breaking point, amazingly the end to end out performed them all, if I recall correctly the joint didn't actually fail it was the wood that failed just beyond the joint.
@@markhendrix745 phew! Glad you saw it, i couldn't find the link and was starting to think i imagined it😂 I know that end grain absorbs glue like a capillary reaction so the wood fibres are actually impregnated and surrounded by glue compared to other orientations
Assuming a good glue-up, the wood will fail in edge-grain joints, and the glue will fail in end-grain joints. The glue strength is identical in both joint types. It's the wood strength that's different. Wood strength varies a great deal depending on how the stresses (tension, compression, and shear) are oriented relative to the grain. Anybody who has ever split a log knows this. Wedging the fibers apart is much easier than severing them, and the stresses on an edge-grain joint are pulling the fibers apart similar to that splitting axe.
yeah, saw it too; turns out the principle is that glue is not as strong as the fibers inside the wood, but is _stronger_ than the lignin "substrate" that holds those fibers together all the other test examples showed the fibers being torn away because the lignin was weaker than the glue bond, while end-to-end showed the glue bond (while plenty strong) was weaker than the fibers themselves
I love these videos so much... I find it so hard to remember advice unless I understand the underlying reasoning of it and you make it so simple and apparent!
When gluing up mitre joints e.g. boxes, picture frames, I use this pre-glue trick beforehand to prep the faces to be joined; I’ve noticed that the joints are particularly stronger as a result.
Man, I truly enjoy your videos. You have taught me more tips/tricks in just a couple hours of videos than I've acquired over 20 years of trial and error.
Good tips! Another tip: Don't overtighten clamps. Sometimes you have to in order to close up gaps, but as soon as the gap is closed, that's enough. Hard, dense, smooth hardwood just needs a small tweak of the clamp screw.
This is the 'first' of your videos I've viewed. It WON'T be the last! As a 'very old guy' new to doing more woodworking since I was a vehicle mechanic for 50+ years, these tricks of gluing, etc, are highly needed skills to learn. THANKS! 😍
Nick, you teach this old dog new tricks! the case hardening info was a new thing for me, so as a 30 + yr hobby woodworker thank you for reminding me I still have a lot to learn!
It may be new info, but it may not be useful info. Wood joints aren't made stronger by wood fibers absorbing glue. Absorption does matter, but its biggest effect is in how quickly the glue dries. With PVA glue, the faster water is removed from the glue the less working time you have and the less time it takes for the glued joint to reach full strength. Since it's very hard to tell exactly how long glue will need to reach full strength, you can't really exploit that aspect with any confidence. As such, the only important effect of the wood absorbing water is less working time - which is generally a disadvantage.
Hey Nick ... I realized when watching this video that I've yet to watch one of your videos that I haven't learned something new AND useful. That, my friend, is why you've managed to build quite a large, loyal following. It's well deserved. Cheers, Dave
Nick, I just started watching your channel and am loving it. I have been making campfire wooden projects for 30+ years and I still keep learning new tricks.... or I am getting old and forgetful and being reminded. Either way, I love what you are teaching! Keep it up... thanks!!! And my "campfire wooden projects" are the scrap and the fails left over after an enjoyable week of creating sawdust. Thanks for sharing your skill and knowledge
Sir, as a rookie woodworker, the last seven minutes just elevated my knowledge about gluing to about a factor of 10! Your video held my interest, and your knowledgeable yet folksy sort of delivery was very clear and easy to follow. I am subscribed and I look forward to more.
Some excellent tips brought to us from an expert, not some keyboard-carpenter. I always appreciate these golden nuggets of information, even if I never use them. Clearly when you are in the 'business' you have more insight and rationale as to why some things work and some do not. Thanks Again!
Thanks. I always learn something from your videos. Instead of wax on cauls, etc., when possible I like to use packing tape on the cauls - water based glues don't stick to packing tape, and a bit less messy to use around my projects. I've also been treating the ends of plywood cabinets by pretreating, then applying a second coat of glue. I suppose that in plywood there should be a mix of end grain and side grain - but it doesn't hurt to take a bit of time to pretreat and follow up with a second round of glue for a really strong joint. Love your videos.
I'm so glad I found you and subscribed when I did (not too long ago). Your videos, knowledge, and way of explaining helps tremendously. Just wanted to say thanks from a fellow woodworker
If youre gonna make a video called Expert tips on glue ups or something like that, that's pretty bold! But man, again, you did not disappoint. Quickly becoming my favorite channel. Thanks again!
Hello and first of all, sorry for my poor command of your language. For my part, in order to prevent my pieces to be glued from slipping between them when gluing, I disperse a few grains of coarse salt... The two pieces no longer slide against each other at all when gluing....😉👌 Thank you for your great videos!! ❤️
I like to half lap my end grain glue ups. It gives a nice face grain cross-section for the glue to hold onto. Finger joints or dovetails are nice too, but much more labor intensive.
i appreciate your vid overall. I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side. well, unless you're using "endgrain" as just short for "narrower side", but i think not. Of course larger surface area of s2s matters, but e2e is not weaker and it's not because of that wick action. That penetration is exactly why endgrain will be stronger than side to side, given the same glue-up area. And of course adding glue in steps (priming the joint) adds more of that strength by letting more glue go deeper. But even without it is relatively stronger than s2s - it will not break because it's weak, but because wood will not break across the grains just as easily as along the grain itself, and because, usually, e2e joint is at mechanical disadvantage. (oh, i hope that's my last edit and there's finally some order to my thoughts...) found it! Pattrick Sullivans vid ruclips.net/video/m7HxBa9WVis/видео.html glue myths, the part on difference of mechanics of each joint starts at ruclips.net/video/m7HxBa9WVis/видео.html?t=819
"I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side." It is not a myth. Endgrain-to-endgrain is a buttjoint and they are the weakest joints you can make. It is not a myth. The video Sullivan created is really misleading cause while the data he shows is good, the conclusion he is drawing from that is just wrong. There is no need to trust anybodies word, just grab 2 pieces of wood and connect them with an endgrain glueup and try to break the connection (easy). Then try the same thing with a simple lap-joint for example - they are worlds apart. Endgrain joints simply can not be as strong precisely cause it means the grain, the thing that gives woods its strength, ends there.
@@ABaumstumpf err... we just happen to call buttjoints endgrain-to-endgrain because that is how we traditionally rip the wood. Unfortunately because of that people assume the fault lies with endgrain, while it's due to glue-up surface. So it's not e2e which are weeker than s2s, buttjoints are. And i don't think we disagree on that xD it's a misunderstanding of two non-native speakers perhaps. Sullivan proved that, given same physical dimensions of material and glueup area : grain-to-grain bond (lignin) < side-to-side glueup < endgrain-to-endgrain glueup < grain. The myth i'm refering to is people thinking it is e2e < s2s. The correct way to put this is: buttjoints are weaker than side joints (which imply the size difference), let's leave grain out of it entierly.
I recently came across your channel. I like your down to earth woodworking style. Trying to avoid case hardening for hobbyist woodworkers is diofficult as on large projects there may be days between milling and gluing. I guess sanding the joints would help.
When I taught at UC, it was sometimes days before my students could get around to gluing something they had just cut. I suggested that they sand or scrape before gluing, and that they wait until right before gluing to do the actual fitting that most joints require.
2 года назад+1
Okay! You've peeked my interest! Great and (to me) surprising tips. Thanks!
4:00 I've been told a pinch of Table Salt works well for shear slip too. It also dissolves as the glue breaks down the salt but holds long enough for the pieces to stay put. As for the last tip with double application of glue this is why we invented Skarf joints.
I knew the salt trick but frankly, who keeps salt in the workshop? On the other hand, who doesn't keep sand paper in the workshop? It's a no-brainer to me.
@@KJ6EAD there probably isnt anything that needs that much glue where the pieces are sliding around so much that you cant clamp properly. If so, then make pieces a little longer and nail the ends. The piece is still going to need cutting after clamping anyway.
I would *never* add sandpaper grit to anything that later needs to be worked, as I value my tool edges too much to subject them to something that is designed to cut into them--which is what sharpening is.
Man, I really like this old guy he's great very informative and friendly. Though I think someone is slippin' on the boss, they need to cover the sound editing for him lol 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Instead of grit from sandpaper, I heard that sprinkling a little kosher salt also works to keep the surfaces from slipping. Since the salt is water-soluble, it dissolves into the glue and disappears after a few minutes.
@@isabelgutierrez8150it would be a problem if you were planning to cut through joints containing grit. Patterned cutting boards would be a good example, where several strips are glued together and then cross-cut to be glued again. The grit would literally sand the teeth on the saw blade. Or the planer blade if planing the surface after glue-up.
WOW.. you are the first person I've heard talking about glue to use the word "cure", the majority of people say "dry". Cool tips, hopefully I'll remember one or two, thanks.
PVA and Aliphatic resins form relatively few cross-links, and they form very quickly. That's why those glues are relatively weak as adhesives go. It's pretty reasonable to think of it as the polymer chains wanting to tangle up, but the water lubricating them so they don't. Once the water has evaporated they're as strong as they're going to get, and additional "cure" time doesn't make them stronger. It's not incorrect to say they cure, but if a student was taking a materials science exam and said that wood glue dries I wouldn't deduct any points. If they said that CA, polyurethane, or epoxy dries, I'd suggest they consider changing majors.
When I don't want glue to stick I use packing tape on the strips of wood that I place between the clamp and the piece being glued. That too helps that the strip wont stick to the piece being glued
I tried the end grain gluing tip. I worked like a charm. I can't break the joint. I was amazed at the results.
So was I. It was the folks at Franklin Glue that first showed me that trick, and couldn't believe it until I tried it myself.
What glues are good ? I am very doubtful re wood glues here so i use epoxy .
@@WorkshopCompanion now that you have this technique, would you use in place of a splice joint in many cases? I like the way splice joints look too.
@@qwut9544 I use a scarf joint with a 1:15 slope.
@@alexeyorlov9639 There is a good run-down on wood glues and there uses/properties here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue . I grew up using polyvinyl acetate (white) glue, but switched to aliphatic resin (yellow) glue about thirty years ago. It works well for most applications. The desk I'm sitting at I built over two decades ago and has never needed repair. Both white and yellow glues have similar strengths when fully cured, but the yellow glue has superior initial grip, cures faster, can be sanded, and is less sensitive to temperature.
I almost passed this by, but when I saw a border collie and a wood-handled hammer, I was hooked. My old dog is gone, but I'm still swinging a 13 ounce Plumb. Your tips are great - using grit to keep glued pieces from slipping when they're clamped is my favorite - but your ability to explain and teach them is even better. Thank you.
Most welcome. Have had a border collie (or two, or three) all my life; wouldn't feel right if there wasn't someone dropping a Frisbee at my feet every five minutes.
@@WorkshopCompanion lmao. I like how you said someone. Similar to referencing a human. I talk the same way to my dogs.
@@asdfgoogle Bella talks to me. I can't understand her most of the time, but she actually attempts to form words rather than barking. How could someone like that be anything else than a "someone."
@@WorkshopCompanion hahaha. I totally understand. My baby girl, Nina (20lbs sheltie), she often does the same thing. But boy does she like to bark. So that's what I get most of the time! Cheers!
@@asdfgoogle Ditto.
That was a strong end grain glue job! Another type of grit you can use to keep wood from sliding around on the glue is salt. That wont dull a saw blade as much as sand paper grit and works really well.
Might try using epsom salt, I came across a scientific article that tried multiple additives to pva glue. One of the additives with positive result was magnesium sulphate, as a purified epsom salt. I remember it was a fairly small amount, so just enough for traction should have good results...I think I'll try it anyway. Have a good day.
Salt May alter the glue chemistry and therefore strength, depending on the type of glue, as it is very soluble.
I was also taught to avoid glueing end grain to end grain and then discovered this trick myself, however i recently watched a RUclips video where wood was clued together in different ways including end to end. Mechanical pressure was then applied to the joints to bend break them and readings taken at breaking point, amazingly the end to end out performed them all, if I recall correctly the joint didn't actually fail it was the wood that failed just beyond the joint.
Saw this same video.. he even goes on to explain scientifically why that is
@@markhendrix745 phew! Glad you saw it, i couldn't find the link and was starting to think i imagined it😂
I know that end grain absorbs glue like a capillary reaction so the wood fibres are actually impregnated and surrounded by glue compared to other orientations
Patrick Sullivan has a whole series on wood glue myths where he tests this and came to the same conclusion
Assuming a good glue-up, the wood will fail in edge-grain joints, and the glue will fail in end-grain joints. The glue strength is identical in both joint types. It's the wood strength that's different. Wood strength varies a great deal depending on how the stresses (tension, compression, and shear) are oriented relative to the grain. Anybody who has ever split a log knows this. Wedging the fibers apart is much easier than severing them, and the stresses on an edge-grain joint are pulling the fibers apart similar to that splitting axe.
yeah, saw it too; turns out the principle is that glue is not as strong as the fibers inside the wood, but is _stronger_ than the lignin "substrate" that holds those fibers together
all the other test examples showed the fibers being torn away because the lignin was weaker than the glue bond, while end-to-end showed the glue bond (while plenty strong) was weaker than the fibers themselves
The end-grain to end-grain demonstration left me amazed. Never would have believed it!
Thanks for saying.
I love these videos so much... I find it so hard to remember advice unless I understand the underlying reasoning of it and you make it so simple and apparent!
When gluing up mitre joints e.g. boxes, picture frames, I use this pre-glue trick beforehand to prep the faces to be joined; I’ve noticed that the joints are particularly stronger as a result.
Man, I truly enjoy your videos. You have taught me more tips/tricks in just a couple hours of videos than I've acquired over 20 years of trial and error.
Good tips! Another tip: Don't overtighten clamps. Sometimes you have to in order to close up gaps, but as soon as the gap is closed, that's enough. Hard, dense, smooth hardwood just needs a small tweak of the clamp screw.
I think it's usually worth the extra time to fit the pieces instead of clamping them harder to fill gaps anyway.
0:20
This is the 'first' of your videos I've viewed. It WON'T be the last! As a 'very old guy' new to doing more woodworking since I was a vehicle mechanic for 50+ years, these tricks of gluing, etc, are highly needed skills to learn. THANKS! 😍
Most welcome. Visit often. Us very old guys need to stick together.
What a great tip on end grain to end grain! An amazing demonstration of the strength of the joint as well. Thank you!
Most welcome.
It’s refreshing to see actual skills on RUclips!! Great tips I’ve learned a couple new ones I’ll surely use!
Thanks.
Nick, you teach this old dog new tricks! the case hardening info was a new thing for me, so as a 30 + yr hobby woodworker thank you for reminding me I still have a lot to learn!
It may be new info, but it may not be useful info. Wood joints aren't made stronger by wood fibers absorbing glue. Absorption does matter, but its biggest effect is in how quickly the glue dries. With PVA glue, the faster water is removed from the glue the less working time you have and the less time it takes for the glued joint to reach full strength. Since it's very hard to tell exactly how long glue will need to reach full strength, you can't really exploit that aspect with any confidence. As such, the only important effect of the wood absorbing water is less working time - which is generally a disadvantage.
This channel deserves more subscribers! So many woodworking channels out there but I always find these tips unique and helpful.
This dude went to the Glue Institute just to learn the pitch of threaded rod for spreading evenly on wooden surfaces. Absolute wealth of knowledge
Thanks. We're getting there.
Nick: Great tips - BUT - more important - Don't stop, your an inspiration to all of us. Thank You!
Hey Nick ... I realized when watching this video that I've yet to watch one of your videos that I haven't learned something new AND useful. That, my friend, is why you've managed to build quite a large, loyal following. It's well deserved. Cheers, Dave
Very kind of you to say. But remember, it's a team effort on my end. I'm just the chump in front of the camera.
@@WorkshopCompanion Chump? I doubt that ... there are very few of us capable and willing to be in front of that camera.
Best 5 tips I've ever seen for gluing!
Every small little tip helps tremendously on projects! Gotta learn the very basics first!
The end grain trick has blown my mind. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome. The Franklin people showed it to me when I was writing "Gluing and Clamping," and it blew me away too.
These are some golden tips, thank you very much for what you do, its a pleasure to watch your videos.
Nick, I just started watching your channel and am loving it. I have been making campfire wooden projects for 30+ years and I still keep learning new tricks.... or I am getting old and forgetful and being reminded. Either way, I love what you are teaching! Keep it up... thanks!!! And my "campfire wooden projects" are the scrap and the fails left over after an enjoyable week of creating sawdust. Thanks for sharing your skill and knowledge
Most welcome.
that end grain to end grain tip was incredible, thanks for the useful information
Most welcome.
Sir, as a rookie woodworker, the last seven minutes just elevated my knowledge about gluing to about a factor of 10! Your video held my interest, and your knowledgeable yet folksy sort of delivery was very clear and easy to follow.
I am subscribed and I look forward to more.
Thanks...and welcome.
Tip5 has confirmed what I always assumed and I was asking around all the RUclips Woodworker experts.
you are the Man! I'm below novice woodworker dude, and I'm trying.
Wow! Great video! These were 5 great tips that I haven't seen anywhere else. The fresh surface demonstration was brilliant.
Some excellent tips brought to us from an expert, not some keyboard-carpenter. I always appreciate these golden nuggets of information, even if I never use them. Clearly when you are in the 'business' you have more insight and rationale as to why some things work and some do not. Thanks Again!
Most welcome.
I never knew that I could learn so much in seven minutes. Thank you sir.
Most welcome.
I learn so much from every single one of your videos!
Thanks. I always learn something from your videos. Instead of wax on cauls, etc., when possible I like to use packing tape on the cauls - water based glues don't stick to packing tape, and a bit less messy to use around my projects. I've also been treating the ends of plywood cabinets by pretreating, then applying a second coat of glue. I suppose that in plywood there should be a mix of end grain and side grain - but it doesn't hurt to take a bit of time to pretreat and follow up with a second round of glue for a really strong joint. Love your videos.
All good tips. Thanks.
Sandpaper trick is fantastic! Thank you!
Most welcome.
Every day's a school day. Never knew end grain could be glued so strongly. Thanks feller.
Absolutely admire how you get right to it.
Thanks.
as a maker of shavings, sawdust, and kindling, I find these tips particularly useful - especially the end-grain one
Thanks.
Excellent shop visit. Thanks for the tips.
Excellent video. I'll use every one of these tricks.
All very good tips, Gonna save this one in my Library. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome.
thanks brother nick - I'm using your techniques on a broken headstock on an acoustic guitar - I appreciate it, brother
As one luthier to another, good luck!
Impressive!.. Love watching exp carpenters showing there old school tricks 👍👍👍
I like the sandpaper grit idea. I have seen many people recommend salt, which I would Never use. Thanks for that tip.
Most welcome.
Thanks for the tip of pre glueing the end grains 👍
My left ear liked this.
😂🎉
That intro is GOLD
I love this guy! Thank you for your efforts sir.
Much appreciated
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Very helpful.
Great video. Informative, interesting and very wholesome. Thank you.
Most welcome.
I truly learned something NEW today! Thanks 🍺
Most welcome.
I use old, larger toothed hack saw blades to spread glue.
Thanks for the tip on end joint glue ups.
Nice tip.
Thank you for teaching this.
I had no idea about the case hardening aspect. That just blew my mind.
I'm so glad I found you and subscribed when I did (not too long ago). Your videos, knowledge, and way of explaining helps tremendously. Just wanted to say thanks from a fellow woodworker
Most welcome.
Thanks for this very helpful information.
If youre gonna make a video called Expert tips on glue ups or something like that, that's pretty bold! But man, again, you did not disappoint. Quickly becoming my favorite channel. Thanks again!
Most welcome.
Great tips, thanks. I had heard of using a little sugar to cut down on the sliding, but not the sandpaper grit trick. Thanks again.
Most welcome.
Those are some great gluing tips that I can use everyday. Thanks!
Most welcome.
Fantastic tips and really clear and concise explanations. I thank you
Most welcome.
damn! That is so cool about the end grain tip. And I love the bit about the sandpaper grit. You're my new favorite woodwork channel. Thank you.
Most welcome.
I don't know WHY this was reccomended to me... But what a great video!! Wish I had some wood to glue now!! Thanks!
Great tips thankyou. The "case hardening" of the timber was very interesting.
Most welcome.
I picked up so many good tips from you. Thank you!
Neat trick with the threaded rod! Just like a grooved trowel for spreading adhesive...why didn't I think of that?
Exactly my reaction when the Franklin Glue chemists showed it to me. Ingenious.
Hi, I’m a new subscriber. Your tips have been very helpful in my shop, in fact they are recorded in a note book. Thanks again. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Glad to be of help. And thanks for the kind words.
Fantastic tips! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Most welcome.
Amazing tips
Thank you
Good stuff I never tried to glue end grain to end grain. It good to know if I had to it would hold
Real expert's tips!
You legend mate. Some really excellent tips Nick. Thanks so much.
Most welcome.
Thank you, professor!
Thank you - very nice tips!
Awesome tips! Simple things I hadn't considered before but once explained make perfect sense, thanks!
Most welcome.
I’ve been doing #5 for years, it’s basic common sense. I will try the sandpaper grit in the future.
Great video. Thanks
Very informative.
Hello and first of all, sorry for my poor command of your language.
For my part, in order to prevent my pieces to be glued from slipping between them when gluing, I disperse a few grains of coarse salt... The two pieces no longer slide against each other at all when gluing....😉👌
Thank you for your great videos!! ❤️
#4 is genius, thank you!😊
Great video. I keep a salt shaker full of fine play sand around when I'm doing glue ups
My left ear thoroughly enjoyed this. ;)
Simple but effective tips,didn't know that case hardening would be bad for glueing and will have to Google what naphtha is.
Next time someone tells me a Spanish guitar maker's neck joint isn't strong (scarf joint), I'm going to show them this video. You're a god. Thank you.
Most welcome. By the way, I make (and fly) airplanes whose wing spars are joined with scarf joints. Incredibly strong joint, if you do it right.
Really excellent tips :) thank you
I like to half lap my end grain glue ups. It gives a nice face grain cross-section for the glue to hold onto. Finger joints or dovetails are nice too, but much more labor intensive.
i appreciate your vid overall.
I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side. well, unless you're using "endgrain" as just short for "narrower side", but i think not.
Of course larger surface area of s2s matters, but e2e is not weaker and it's not because of that wick action. That penetration is exactly why endgrain will be stronger than side to side, given the same glue-up area. And of course adding glue in steps (priming the joint) adds more of that strength by letting more glue go deeper. But even without it is relatively stronger than s2s - it will not break because it's weak, but because wood will not break across the grains just as easily as along the grain itself, and because, usually, e2e joint is at mechanical disadvantage.
(oh, i hope that's my last edit and there's finally some order to my thoughts...)
found it! Pattrick Sullivans vid ruclips.net/video/m7HxBa9WVis/видео.html glue myths, the part on difference of mechanics of each joint starts at ruclips.net/video/m7HxBa9WVis/видео.html?t=819
"I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side."
It is not a myth. Endgrain-to-endgrain is a buttjoint and they are the weakest joints you can make. It is not a myth. The video Sullivan created is really misleading cause while the data he shows is good, the conclusion he is drawing from that is just wrong.
There is no need to trust anybodies word, just grab 2 pieces of wood and connect them with an endgrain glueup and try to break the connection (easy). Then try the same thing with a simple lap-joint for example - they are worlds apart.
Endgrain joints simply can not be as strong precisely cause it means the grain, the thing that gives woods its strength, ends there.
@@ABaumstumpf err... we just happen to call buttjoints endgrain-to-endgrain because that is how we traditionally rip the wood. Unfortunately because of that people assume the fault lies with endgrain, while it's due to glue-up surface. So it's not e2e which are weeker than s2s, buttjoints are.
And i don't think we disagree on that xD it's a misunderstanding of two non-native speakers perhaps.
Sullivan proved that, given same physical dimensions of material and glueup area : grain-to-grain bond (lignin) < side-to-side glueup < endgrain-to-endgrain glueup < grain. The myth i'm refering to is people thinking it is e2e < s2s. The correct way to put this is: buttjoints are weaker than side joints (which imply the size difference), let's leave grain out of it entierly.
I recently came across your channel. I like your down to earth woodworking style. Trying to avoid case hardening for hobbyist woodworkers is diofficult as on large projects there may be days between milling and gluing. I guess sanding the joints would help.
When I taught at UC, it was sometimes days before my students could get around to gluing something they had just cut. I suggested that they sand or scrape before gluing, and that they wait until right before gluing to do the actual fitting that most joints require.
Okay! You've peeked my interest! Great and (to me) surprising tips. Thanks!
Most welcome.
piqued vs peeked
4:00 I've been told a pinch of Table Salt works well for shear slip too. It also dissolves as the glue breaks down the salt but holds long enough for the pieces to stay put. As for the last tip with double application of glue this is why we invented Skarf joints.
Not the easiest to clamp.
I knew the salt trick but frankly, who keeps salt in the workshop? On the other hand, who doesn't keep sand paper in the workshop?
It's a no-brainer to me.
I'm not putting grit where a saw, chisel, plane, etc. will go later.
@@KJ6EAD there probably isnt anything that needs that much glue where the pieces are sliding around so much that you cant clamp properly. If so, then make pieces a little longer and nail the ends. The piece is still going to need cutting after clamping anyway.
I would *never* add sandpaper grit to anything that later needs to be worked, as I value my tool edges too much to subject them to something that is designed to cut into them--which is what sharpening is.
Thank you young man, from a complete beginner. All noted and will apply those lessons.
Most welcome.
Outstanding!!! Thank You........
Man, I really like this old guy he's great very informative and friendly. Though I think someone is slippin' on the boss, they need to cover the sound editing for him lol 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Agree. The music/transitions were very loud compared to his voice volume.
Love the threaded rod method
Me too!
I want this man as a grandad!!
I laughed out loud when I saw the clever use of a bolt to spread glue. I love this guy.
Wow! Just "found" your channel and absolutely love it!
Welcome!
Instead of grit from sandpaper, I heard that sprinkling a little kosher salt also works to keep the surfaces from slipping. Since the salt is water-soluble, it dissolves into the glue and disappears after a few minutes.
That is also a great tip i have heard but really at what point will it be a problem if the grit doesn’t dissolve?
@@isabelgutierrez8150it would be a problem if you were planning to cut through joints containing grit. Patterned cutting boards would be a good example, where several strips are glued together and then cross-cut to be glued again. The grit would literally sand the teeth on the saw blade. Or the planer blade if planing the surface after glue-up.
WOW.. you are the first person I've heard talking about glue to use the word "cure", the majority of people say "dry". Cool tips, hopefully I'll remember one or two, thanks.
PVA and Aliphatic resins form relatively few cross-links, and they form very quickly. That's why those glues are relatively weak as adhesives go. It's pretty reasonable to think of it as the polymer chains wanting to tangle up, but the water lubricating them so they don't. Once the water has evaporated they're as strong as they're going to get, and additional "cure" time doesn't make them stronger. It's not incorrect to say they cure, but if a student was taking a materials science exam and said that wood glue dries I wouldn't deduct any points. If they said that CA, polyurethane, or epoxy dries, I'd suggest they consider changing majors.
Most welcome.
Very interesting, and here I thought I might have cut a grove or use dowels for a good end joint.
When I don't want glue to stick I use packing tape on the strips of wood that I place between the clamp and the piece being glued. That too helps that the strip wont stick to the piece being glued
I keep a salt shaker with my glue products. It does the same trick as the sandpaper sand, but super easy and really cheap.
And doesn't hurt plane blades, videos or drill bits like that grit from sand paper...
I need to know that hammer spin trick. I think that is way cool. Another grandchild amazed.
Excellent video, thank you! Cheers from sweden
You're welcome...and Hey! from Ohio.
Love your Pup mate, best way to have your shop with your besties in there
True that. I like a little dog hair mixed with my sawdust.