You are the ONLY video I've found detailing this. Thanks! I about had a stroke of stress and anxiety mounting my rail. A few questions: 1. I ordered the Salmon River Solutions 20moa rail, which only came with one 3mm recoil pin. Is the one recoil pin with the four 6-48 screws enough for a 30-06 rifle? 2. I've been hearing concerns on forums that the front most screw protrudes into the action and causes bolt close/feeding issues. I haven't shot my rifle yet, but I seem to be able to open and close the bolt fine without issue... but when I stick a flashlight down the action I can DEFINITELY see that front screw is the only one slightly protruding into the action. Is this normal? 3. Do you bed your scope base when using dissimilar materials? I just dabbed blue locktite on a q-tip and finely coated the underside of my rail and top surface of the receiver to act as a barrier between the SS receiver and 7075 anodized AL rail. I degreased everything using 100% acetone before applying the blue locktite as a "contact surface" agent and also used blue locktite on the screws and torqued to 15-18 in-lbs. I liked and subscribed, this video is great! Thanks!
I am pretty sure that this will be more than enough yes. Salmon River Solution makes some really solid stuff. Check that it is not the plastic screw that is protruding out of the action? Yeah I did it the same with loctite and it works great. Anyway I am not a gunsmith so maybe an expert gunsmith would have a better solution… I will try to ask someone about this…
I went with the Murphy Precision Titanium Picatinny rail on my T3x 7mm Rem Mag, the Murphy Precision pic rail for the T3x utilizes all 5x 6-46 screws, 2x 3mm dowel pins plus the large 6mm recoil pin.
That sounds like a bomb proof combo 😅 Anyway also 4 screws and 2 pins should be more than enough for a heavy recoiling caliber and a heavy tactical/target scope. But I absolutely agree that more is always better 😉
Were the pins that come with the Murphy loose, or did they need to be hammered in like in the video? This is important, because if they are loose, they don’t provide any extra strength unless bedded with epoxy. If they needed to be hammered in like in the video, that is a tight fit that results in the strongest joint. This way the pins take all the shear force in recoil, and the screws only clamp down. The reason I ask, is because I almost bought the Murphy mount, but the description says the pins are loose (they sell the bedding kit with the mount for $15 extra).
thank you
You are the ONLY video I've found detailing this. Thanks! I about had a stroke of stress and anxiety mounting my rail.
A few questions:
1. I ordered the Salmon River Solutions 20moa rail, which only came with one 3mm recoil pin. Is the one recoil pin with the four 6-48 screws enough for a 30-06 rifle?
2. I've been hearing concerns on forums that the front most screw protrudes into the action and causes bolt close/feeding issues. I haven't shot my rifle yet, but I seem to be able to open and close the bolt fine without issue... but when I stick a flashlight down the action I can DEFINITELY see that front screw is the only one slightly protruding into the action. Is this normal?
3. Do you bed your scope base when using dissimilar materials? I just dabbed blue locktite on a q-tip and finely coated the underside of my rail and top surface of the receiver to act as a barrier between the SS receiver and 7075 anodized AL rail. I degreased everything using 100% acetone before applying the blue locktite as a "contact surface" agent and also used blue locktite on the screws and torqued to 15-18 in-lbs.
I liked and subscribed, this video is great! Thanks!
I am pretty sure that this will be more than enough yes. Salmon River Solution makes some really solid stuff.
Check that it is not the plastic screw that is protruding out of the action?
Yeah I did it the same with loctite and it works great. Anyway I am not a gunsmith so maybe an expert gunsmith would have a better solution… I will try to ask someone about this…
I went with the Murphy Precision Titanium Picatinny rail on my T3x 7mm Rem Mag, the Murphy Precision pic rail for the T3x utilizes all 5x 6-46 screws, 2x 3mm dowel pins plus the large 6mm recoil pin.
That sounds like a bomb proof combo 😅 Anyway also 4 screws and 2 pins should be more than enough for a heavy recoiling caliber and a heavy tactical/target scope. But I absolutely agree that more is always better 😉
@@TomasHunting Yeah, your set up looks solid too. Nice choice. Happy shooting!
@@jpkla5663 thanks. Wish you the same 😉
Were the pins that come with the Murphy loose, or did they need to be hammered in like in the video? This is important, because if they are loose, they don’t provide any extra strength unless bedded with epoxy. If they needed to be hammered in like in the video, that is a tight fit that results in the strongest joint. This way the pins take all the shear force in recoil, and the screws only clamp down. The reason I ask, is because I almost bought the Murphy mount, but the description says the pins are loose (they sell the bedding kit with the mount for $15 extra).
Can you drop a link for the picatinny rail used
Here is the link: spuhrwebshop.com/en/bases/tikka/