The Engine on the GMC is a “Cummins NTC-350 Big cam 3”. And fun fact, despite this truck having a Cummins engine during the scenes inside the trailer you would hear the trucks engine in the background but instead of hearing a Cummins, you hear a 8V92 Detroit Diesel engine. Not sure if the sound of the Detroit came from the first GMC knight rider had. GMC generals were known to have 8V92s or 6V92s.
Hollywood sure seemed to like the 8V92. Both Rubber Duck's Mack from Convoy and the Happy Toys semi from Maximum Overdrive used that motor for the engine sounds.
Suggestion for detailing. Invite AMMO NYC or WD Detailing to see if they would like to detail a "celebrity vehicle" detail job (your screen used KITT, the semi or both). Both have huge subscriber bases and both would likely enjoy the opportunities. JRGO's father is a mechanical engineer who would likely get a kick out of working on the semi. While most RUclipsrs would probably not travel hundreds or thousands of miles to do a crossover video, I bet if they realize these are the actual screen used vehicles and not replicas, I bet they will come out to lay hands on these wheeled legends.
Being that it has sat so long I would strongly recommend rebuild or replace the Turbo. If the seals inside are bad you could end up with diesel runaway. Once that starts it's almost impossible to stop. And it won't stop until it melts down the engine.
Eh, have you seen some videos online? It is possible to stop a diesel runaway, although some ways can debatably destroy a couple or more parts depending on how you do it, if it isn't a manual, you can plug the intake with something (which is part of how or what fire extinguisher do with fires. Did you realize that?) Or use a fire extinguisher itself, or, with a manual, you can put it in the highest gear and dump the clutch. And, melt the engine? Yeah, it would likely get hot, but, the main thing would be once the oil gets past a point, it'll waste away the protective lining of the piston wall and score the wall until it siezes up and/or uses up the remaining oil.
@TheAngryPlrate you talking to me? If so, actually try to show that next time, and yes, I do get that Joe could do that, I was telling taz (the person that we're talking in a thread under) that it is possible to stop a diesel runaway.
The horn button works slightly differently than you described. The "pin" should be spring-loaded and always ride with pressure on the contact ring in the steering column. That's not the "switch" portion - it's merely a means to provide constant contact between the switch (which is that single-P/N component) and the column, which also why there isn't a means to "push" it. The wire should *likely* be soldered to the tin piece inside the button (you can see the solder blob at 36:05). The system is all ground driven, where grounding out the wire will blow the horn. Hard to tell exactly, but I'd wager the "cup" should be tied (glued?) to the outer plastic button, and there should be a (missing) spring that presses on the plastic button to let it float. The flat tin piece must pick up ground from the wheel, and pressing the horn button should put the two into contact, thus completing the circuit. Essentially: Column/wheel (ground) => backing plate => metal cup => wire => contact pin => horn solenoid
I was thinking the same thing. It's been forever since I've had one of these old horns apart, but it is exactly as you describe. Looks like there are a couple spring missing, one from the contact pin, and one from the horn button.
I would recommend checking all. your wheelbarings and brakes in . both the tractor and trailer and the old wiring in both of them . The last thing you would want to happen is get it all back together and loose it to a fire due to the old wiring .
I am kind of in awe. Those old semis don't have an easy life to begin with and when you had the age to the mileage... It's pretty in good shape, all things considered.
Joe make sure to clean up the engine. It's a rusty mess. Maybe you can paint the valve covers and the compartment. You don't want the outside looking new and spotless, and the engine a rusty mess. Yes keep some vintage, but definitely clean it up. Great work btw!
The work you did on the steering wheel turned out looking really good, especially for your first time doing such. Really love the time and effort you're putting into all of this, like a little chunk of my childhood coming back to life
Oooh...Now this is just GREAT! Firstly, I have never had a chance to see such a tractor outside or inside, of course. Thank you for the tour!!! And secondly, I am throughly impressed, Joe, by your endless skills! Neat stitches in LEATHER, oh my!!! AND you would definitely make an excellent teacher - only with your patience. And I joined your happy smile after you assembled the wheel back, so contagious! And yes, you are right: when you like something and devote yourself to it - then you can´t fail (and find lots of friends).
The truck is shaping up really nicely Joe, I can’t wait to see it when it’s painted black again with the gold pin striping, and to see the screen used trailer restored as well, keep up the great work
i can easyly say that you made progress!also the radio the dom light and the seats are the same as a base firebird model!good old general motors policy!one part...for 25 models!
yeah get a parts manual and they got a exploded view of the horn button on column ...............we had all that stuff manuals from 1939 to late 90s manuals but got them tossed when dealership went out of biz.....sigh....
Most every truck have two types of horns an Air Horn( a wire/ rope hanging above near top of the door frame ) and a City horn on the column( much softer so you don't startle other drivers to bad) ,not like a Air horn which GMC mounted on the roof is recommended use on the Freeway extremely loud. Great job on the steering wheel .
Are those Goodyear G159 tires? They're kind of a big deal because they were used in motorhomes and they weren't up to the task, failed and hurt/killed quite a few people. They've actually been recalled. I don't remember the details on the recall, but going through that might offset some of the tire replacement costs. Kind of surprised to see them on a semi if when they weren't suited for motorhome use.
I still think you can repair that cracked dash pad; a bit of plastic welding on the backside to stabilize the part, filler on the front and re-texturing, then paint the whole dash to match the color.
normally the 80s horn button contact that rides on the ring is spring loaded into the ring not away from it like yours . so something is together wrong there , the wire is supposed to be hot all the time then grounded to energize the horn relay
I would highly recommend a manual battery disconnect knife switch or a Boston battery disconnect switch for the tractor and trailer batteries. 15 years of firefighting. I would hate to see all that work go up in smoke from. A electrical short while it is sitting.
I hope you give that engine a really good cleaning possibly some paint on rusty areas like the radiator. The steering wheel looks so much better. Good job. Looking forward to seeing the sleeper on the truck. Will the sleeper be completely fake? Or will it be possible to get into it from outsde? I don't think you plan to cut an access opening in the cab. Keep up the good work
When you put tires on that truck put brand new ones on. If you do go with Recaps on the rear I definitely recommend bandag. I would recommend Bridgestone tires on the front if not all the way around. Trust me I've on media trucks in my past to be exact 8 of them and have driven Many of Miles over my time. It was quite interesting to see everything about that truck because I remember doing all my own maintenance
Might I suggest that you investigate where mice may have gotten in previously. It can be difficult to find where they are getting in, but it is usually not that difficult to stop them once you find the spot. Plug up holes with grommets or silicone, or bigger ones with mesh. You might need to insert a mesh screen in the airconditioning duct work. Mice can crawl through pretty small holes approx 3/8" spaces, but in my experience it is much better than keeping mothballs or urinal cakes or whatever else in the vehicle.
Have you ever heard of Autoglym? It’s a polish that I’ve found useful for auto and other applications. I think it’s meant for the body, but I’ve used it on decals and plastics, such as dashboards, or what I mostly use it for, arcade game control panels.
I did a search on "1983 GMC GENERAL STEERING WHEEL HORN" (all in caps) and there was one for sale in the UK. It may not be the right one but looked a lot like it. Even if its wrong it might give you an idea of what's missing. For some strange reason searching in lower case didn't bring it up. If it helps its Ebay description title is "1960-1973 GMC Steering Wheel Horn Cap Comfort Grip Black Kit"
Good update man. Looking at the drive shaft. You by chance know if there's evidence that there may have been a carrier or driveshaft support bearing fastened to the crossmember about mid drive shaft. The distance from transmission to the front drive axle looks pretty long. It'll probably be fine but I wouldn't feed it to many onions lol. Take care!!
38:45 yea it's awesome - but also horrifying if you imagine back in the day driving one one these and no airbag and so close to the steering wheel.... XD
GM used this strange horn thing in a lot of cars back then. I never have figured out the one in my Camaro because it is pieces like that and it seems like what I keep seeing isn't enough to make it work. That steering wheel looks like an oversized version of what my 83 Firebird came with from Pontiac.
37:12 the plunger on the rear of the steering wheel should also be spring-loaded. That should be in constant contact with the ring on the column. The horn button is also spring-loaded and when it is pressed, that’s what makes the connection to sound the horn.
Is the engine the original one? Also, you should probably have that turbo overhauled, it'd be bad if one of the seals in it failed and the engine ran away (If the intake side seal fails, it dumps the lube oil that's piped to to the turbo into the intake manifold, and it self feeds off the oil, so you can't shut it off by the key, and unless someone can shut it down it either runs out of lube oil and the bottom end locks up or it overrevs/overheats and dies in a different spectacular way)
You should get in touch with this TwinStickGarage guy I am not sure where or how far apart you are from him but he is in Canada He could give that engine a good going over and replace/rebuild the turbo. This guy has connections to get the engine in top running shape
If you can't find a horn button replacement unit may I suggest checking for a patient to see how it's made. Then if you need a spring for it maybe This Old Tony (RUclips Channel) could make it? A crossover video might be good for the channel too.
I hope the trailer wall donation options stay open until late March so I can take part. ETA For the horn button once you find the return spring the red wire should attach to the back metal plate where it will complete the horn circuit when depressed.
If your strict about original parts then you may want to see what's missing in the horn and mix match parts with the new one, replacing only what's missing.
What a brilliant transformation on the truck. I think maybe the metal steering wheel part may have been spray painted silver and that could be the paint peeling.
I would try fitting a spring in the horn button assembly. You wouldn't necessarily need the correct one, just find one of a size that will function. Maybe be necessary to cut it.
The plunger on the steering wheel should be down all the time. The wire, when grounded, makes the horn blow. The hub and wheel are grounded through the steering shaft. The horn button assembly would act as a switch to ground the wire. Same as in most gm cars for decades. Same as Trans Ams, got a TA wheel around?
I would recommend plastic polish for the fender lights. I use Novus to restore the shine to old plastic toys and it works very well. If there’s yellowing I would use the retrobright technique.
Great video once again! I wonder if will you tell us more about you, your work outside the Knight Rider Historians. I remember you said in of your videos that your work was nothing to do with all can see on your videos
That plunger on the horn button should be spring loaded and in contact with the slip ring at all times. There should be some kind of switch inside the button that connects when pressed. Very nice work on the steering wheel sewing. I'm curious how you repaired the foam on the rim. Can you explain that? Thanks!
While driving on the interstate through the 90s, I used to look for this truck. Hoping to see it. No such luck. Glad you obtained it and restoring it to what it should be. A good pressure wash on that engine would be good I think. WD 40 the stuffing out of the sensor, that should help with the rust.
well if it makes you feel any better you DID have the right idea as it was out there and working, it just had been resprayed and had all its markings changed.
@@kavinskysmith4094 I wasn't being a jerk about it. I was merely saying I used to look for it when I was younger. Hoping to see the truck. That's all. Thank you I know it's been repainted many times. Thanks for pointing that out as he already has.
@@theshih-tzudad4068 yeah no worries I DO have a habit of insulting people though and its just like wait a minute, that one wasnt supposed to be one of those lol
The cut wire connects to the steering wheel boss (gmc disc) and it appears you are missing at least one , if not two springs , the spring on the top side , goes under the steering wheel boss , there may be a spring under the steering wheel itself , the steering wheel boss should just clip in , if you are missing clips , you may need to scource another complete steering wheel , if you can find a same steering wheel and column intact at a scrap yard , it may be a good thing to buy it , so you can strip it and replace missing parts , keeping the rest for parts.
Hey Joe, another amazing video! Thank You So Much for all of the hard work that you are doing! I assume that you plan on replacing all of the fluids in the tractor right? Oil, Antifreeze (coolant), transmission oil, and rear diff oil. A good cooling system flush would probably be a good idea as well. I'm sure that it has an oil cooler somewhere on the engine too, it might be a good idea to check its condition and functionality prior to running her too much to make sure that the oil is being cooled properly. All in all, she's coming along nicely! 😃
Hi Joe, have you considered starting an online store to sell small parts you remove form the cab and trailer, and have no future use for? It'd also be easier to repair the dash than replace it.
That horn assembly looks just like a Grant steering wheel assembly. If so you're probably able to get a button kit and use its parts to rebuild the guts of the OEM button, snd also how its supposed to be wired to function
I know a place where you can get the dashboard repaired instead of getting a new piece for it it's called just dashes in California their trusted their well-known and then one of the only places in the country that can refurbish dashboards Jay Leno even uses their services
One man can -make a difference- restore a steering wheel, Michael
The Engine on the GMC is a “Cummins NTC-350 Big cam 3”. And fun fact, despite this truck having a Cummins engine during the scenes inside the trailer you would hear the trucks engine in the background but instead of hearing a Cummins, you hear a 8V92 Detroit Diesel engine. Not sure if the sound of the Detroit came from the first GMC knight rider had. GMC generals were known to have 8V92s or 6V92s.
Great info, thanks!
Hollywood sure seemed to like the 8V92. Both Rubber Duck's Mack from Convoy and the Happy Toys semi from Maximum Overdrive used that motor for the engine sounds.
no way to know what horsepower is unless you see the data tag, and assume someone hasnt messed with the pump
@@KnightRiderHistoriansOfficial hello please how does the car drive by itself when there are people driving?
Suggestion for detailing. Invite AMMO NYC or WD Detailing to see if they would like to detail a "celebrity vehicle" detail job (your screen used KITT, the semi or both). Both have huge subscriber bases and both would likely enjoy the opportunities. JRGO's father is a mechanical engineer who would likely get a kick out of working on the semi. While most RUclipsrs would probably not travel hundreds or thousands of miles to do a crossover video, I bet if they realize these are the actual screen used vehicles and not replicas, I bet they will come out to lay hands on these wheeled legends.
Being that it has sat so long I would strongly recommend rebuild or replace the Turbo. If the seals inside are bad you could end up with diesel runaway. Once that starts it's almost impossible to stop. And it won't stop until it melts down the engine.
Eh, have you seen some videos online? It is possible to stop a diesel runaway, although some ways can debatably destroy a couple or more parts depending on how you do it, if it isn't a manual, you can plug the intake with something (which is part of how or what fire extinguisher do with fires. Did you realize that?) Or use a fire extinguisher itself, or, with a manual, you can put it in the highest gear and dump the clutch. And, melt the engine? Yeah, it would likely get hot, but, the main thing would be once the oil gets past a point, it'll waste away the protective lining of the piston wall and score the wall until it siezes up and/or uses up the remaining oil.
Or he could replace the seals and not have to run around trying to plug the intake
@TheAngryPlrate you talking to me? If so, actually try to show that next time, and yes, I do get that Joe could do that, I was telling taz (the person that we're talking in a thread under) that it is possible to stop a diesel runaway.
Smart money would be in replacing the turbocharger, high-pressure supply line gaskets on the return tube…
Joe, there’s a data tag 🏷️ n the left side of the engine at the front, on the front gear housing. Most likely a 350-400 hp Big Cam.
The horn button works slightly differently than you described. The "pin" should be spring-loaded and always ride with pressure on the contact ring in the steering column. That's not the "switch" portion - it's merely a means to provide constant contact between the switch (which is that single-P/N component) and the column, which also why there isn't a means to "push" it. The wire should *likely* be soldered to the tin piece inside the button (you can see the solder blob at 36:05). The system is all ground driven, where grounding out the wire will blow the horn.
Hard to tell exactly, but I'd wager the "cup" should be tied (glued?) to the outer plastic button, and there should be a (missing) spring that presses on the plastic button to let it float. The flat tin piece must pick up ground from the wheel, and pressing the horn button should put the two into contact, thus completing the circuit.
Essentially:
Column/wheel (ground) => backing plate => metal cup => wire => contact pin => horn solenoid
I was thinking the same thing. It's been forever since I've had one of these old horns apart, but it is exactly as you describe. Looks like there are a couple spring missing, one from the contact pin, and one from the horn button.
I also suspect that "cup" should be flipped the other way at 36:24 - it looks like the inner hole of it likely fits the plastic bump on the button.
So the semi actually has working Turbo Boost!
I would recommend checking all. your wheelbarings and brakes in . both the tractor and trailer and the old wiring in both of them .
The last thing you would want to happen is get it all back together and loose it to a fire due to the old wiring .
AWESOME!!!!! Idea for the name list, you could put them on the computer in the trailer to scroll for everybody to see later.
I believe Isspro made the pyrometer for most diesel trucks part# R650 is the thermocouple sensor, hope this helps! Good Luck!
Joe nothing like a photo bomb from our precious furbabies. Always have to be the center of attention! Lol
I am kind of in awe. Those old semis don't have an easy life to begin with and when you had the age to the mileage... It's pretty in good shape, all things considered.
Joe make sure to clean up the engine. It's a rusty mess. Maybe you can paint the valve covers and the compartment. You don't want the outside looking new and spotless, and the engine a rusty mess. Yes keep some vintage, but definitely clean it up. Great work btw!
Love the cat getting in on the act! lol
The work you did on the steering wheel turned out looking really good, especially for your first time doing such. Really love the time and effort you're putting into all of this, like a little chunk of my childhood coming back to life
Oooh...Now this is just GREAT! Firstly, I have never had a chance to see such a tractor outside or inside, of course. Thank you for the tour!!! And secondly, I am throughly impressed, Joe, by your endless skills! Neat stitches in LEATHER, oh my!!! AND you would definitely make an excellent teacher - only with your patience. And I joined your happy smile after you assembled the wheel back, so contagious! And yes, you are right: when you like something and devote yourself to it - then you can´t fail (and find lots of friends).
Thanks so much for the kind words!
@@KnightRiderHistoriansOfficial Well deserved, well deserved!
Wow! The track came out spectacular.
Thks for the great walk around tour .
The truck is shaping up really nicely Joe, I can’t wait to see it when it’s painted black again with the gold pin striping, and to see the screen used trailer restored as well, keep up the great work
i can easyly say that you made progress!also the radio the dom light and the seats are the same as a base firebird model!good old general motors policy!one part...for 25 models!
I used to have a black cat named Kitt! That's obviously what you named yours, right??? 😄
That steering wheel turned out pretty nice. The Dorsey jacket is also a nice touch.
Dorsey hooked us up with a bunch of swag...you'll see it in a future video!
@@KnightRiderHistoriansOfficial that's pretty cool.
Great work with the steering wheel :) Good to have KITT the cat to keep mice away from the truck :D
Great job, Joe. Especially the work on the steering wheel. 👍
yeah get a parts manual and they got a exploded view of the horn button on column ...............we had all that stuff manuals from 1939 to late 90s manuals but got them tossed when dealership went out of biz.....sigh....
The only thing missing is the "Nut Behind the Wheel"😁
Great one Joel
And Cummins are still making engines today lot of the John Deere have them and other agriculture machines do
It's an L10 Cummins that definitely needs some Love.
not a L10
Most every truck have two types of horns an Air Horn( a wire/ rope hanging above near top of the door frame ) and a City horn on the column( much softer so you don't startle other drivers to bad) ,not like a Air horn which GMC mounted on the roof is recommended use on the Freeway extremely loud. Great job on the steering wheel .
Neat, I have sown before, yet I have never tried to sow leather on a steering wheel before though🤔.
Please leave the hints of red paint over spray. It really tells the story of the history of the truck.
Are those Goodyear G159 tires? They're kind of a big deal because they were used in motorhomes and they weren't up to the task, failed and hurt/killed quite a few people. They've actually been recalled. I don't remember the details on the recall, but going through that might offset some of the tire replacement costs. Kind of surprised to see them on a semi if when they weren't suited for motorhome use.
You are doing amazing work with the knightrider vehicles 👍
I still think you can repair that cracked dash pad; a bit of plastic welding on the backside to stabilize the part, filler on the front and re-texturing, then paint the whole dash to match the color.
I wouldn't worry about the steel wheels until the new tires arrive.
You should do a video spraying off all the dirt off the engine.
Great video thanks
I see my name! 😁
28:19 if you use baby oil, that will remove any residue. It is not grease or leave any marks, and safe to use on any type of fabric.
normally the 80s horn button contact that rides on the ring is spring loaded into the ring not away from it like yours . so something is together wrong there , the wire is supposed to be hot all the time then grounded to energize the horn relay
I love it so much when the stars align for once and the right peopel get the right cars. I'm so happy what you guys do and your awesome
Fantastic work sir!
I would highly recommend a manual battery disconnect knife switch or a Boston battery disconnect switch for the tractor and trailer batteries. 15 years of firefighting. I would hate to see all that work go up in smoke from. A electrical short while it is sitting.
Thats the plan. Batteries aren't even in them right now
@@KnightRiderHistoriansOfficial that's great 👍. Thank you 😊.
I hope you give that engine a really good cleaning possibly some paint on rusty areas like the radiator. The steering wheel looks so much better. Good job.
Looking forward to seeing the sleeper on the truck. Will the sleeper be completely fake? Or will it be possible to get into it from outsde? I don't think you plan to cut an access opening in the cab.
Keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing joe
When you put tires on that truck put brand new ones on. If you do go with Recaps on the rear I definitely recommend bandag. I would recommend Bridgestone tires on the front if not all the way around. Trust me I've on media trucks in my past to be exact 8 of them and have driven Many of Miles over my time. It was quite interesting to see everything about that truck because I remember doing all my own maintenance
@@user-rs1990 nobody makes truck tires with REGROOVEABLE molded into the sidewalls? I've seen that on them years ago.
Great job Joe👍 I would only put the new tires onto the tractor after all the work & paint job has been done!!! Just a thought. Well done 👍
Check with the Iowa-80 truck stop for the horn button...if they don't have it they can get it...
Might I suggest that you investigate where mice may have gotten in previously. It can be difficult to find where they are getting in, but it is usually not that difficult to stop them once you find the spot. Plug up holes with grommets or silicone, or bigger ones with mesh. You might need to insert a mesh screen in the airconditioning duct work. Mice can crawl through pretty small holes approx 3/8" spaces, but in my experience it is much better than keeping mothballs or urinal cakes or whatever else in the vehicle.
Mice haven't been in the truck for over a year. Thats just my insurance right now until it is garaged
Thanks for every bit of info you supply us with and all of the amazing memorobilia from my teen years.
Thanks so much!! Glad you enjoy the content.
Have you ever heard of Autoglym? It’s a polish that I’ve found useful for auto and other applications. I think it’s meant for the body, but I’ve used it on decals and plastics, such as dashboards, or what I mostly use it for, arcade game control panels.
Good transmission. 13 speed is my favorite, especially on mountains and hills.
I did a search on "1983 GMC GENERAL STEERING WHEEL HORN" (all in caps) and there was one for sale in the UK. It may not be the right one but looked a lot like it. Even if its wrong it might give you an idea of what's missing. For some strange reason searching in lower case didn't bring it up.
If it helps its Ebay description title is "1960-1973 GMC Steering Wheel Horn Cap Comfort Grip Black Kit"
Nice job on the wheel!
Good update man. Looking at the drive shaft. You by chance know if there's evidence that there may have been a carrier or driveshaft support bearing fastened to the crossmember about mid drive shaft. The distance from transmission to the front drive axle looks pretty long. It'll probably be fine but I wouldn't feed it to many onions lol. Take care!!
38:45 yea it's awesome - but also horrifying if you imagine back in the day driving one one these and no airbag and so close to the steering wheel.... XD
Thank you joe for an awesome update watching from South Africa
GM used this strange horn thing in a lot of cars back then. I never have figured out the one in my Camaro because it is pieces like that and it seems like what I keep seeing isn't enough to make it work. That steering wheel looks like an oversized version of what my 83 Firebird came with from Pontiac.
37:12 the plunger on the rear of the steering wheel should also be spring-loaded. That should be in constant contact with the ring on the column. The horn button is also spring-loaded and when it is pressed, that’s what makes the connection to sound the horn.
Is the engine the original one? Also, you should probably have that turbo overhauled, it'd be bad if one of the seals in it failed and the engine ran away (If the intake side seal fails, it dumps the lube oil that's piped to to the turbo into the intake manifold, and it self feeds off the oil, so you can't shut it off by the key, and unless someone can shut it down it either runs out of lube oil and the bottom end locks up or it overrevs/overheats and dies in a different spectacular way)
You should get in touch with this TwinStickGarage guy
I am not sure where or how far apart you are from him but he is in Canada
He could give that engine a good going over and replace/rebuild the turbo.
This guy has connections to get the engine in top running shape
If you can't find a horn button replacement unit may I suggest checking for a patient to see how it's made. Then if you need a spring for it maybe This Old Tony (RUclips Channel) could make it? A crossover video might be good for the channel too.
Really great video again, the semi is coming along nicely.
excellent video thank you for the update
I hope the trailer wall donation options stay open until late March so I can take part.
ETA
For the horn button once you find the return spring the red wire should attach to the back metal plate where it will complete the horn circuit when depressed.
I can't bear the idea of air travel.
But I have to come over to the US to see this when it's all finished!
good idea- de-lorean from back to the future in knight rider trailer... new dimension in war with evil...
for the steering wheel, i say clear coat it just like it is and keep the patina! i think that is what i would do, if it were me.
If your strict about original parts then you may want to see what's missing in the horn and mix match parts with the new one, replacing only what's missing.
What a brilliant transformation on the truck. I think maybe the metal steering wheel part may have been spray painted silver and that could be the paint peeling.
Curious if you or someone in your orbit has or is going to get a CDL so you can drive the rig?
I believe that there's supposed to be a spring around the steering column that pushes the button back up.
Hey basement kitty! Looks like Salam from STTW or HokusPokus
I would try fitting a spring in the horn button assembly. You wouldn't necessarily need the correct one, just find one of a size that will function. Maybe be necessary to cut it.
The plunger on the steering wheel should be down all the time. The wire, when grounded, makes the horn blow. The hub and wheel are grounded through the steering shaft. The horn button assembly would act as a switch to ground the wire. Same as in most gm cars for decades. Same as Trans Ams, got a TA wheel around?
Maybe a spring holds the button up, and a push down touches the metal part to the wheel to ground it?
I would recommend plastic polish for the fender lights. I use Novus to restore the shine to old plastic toys and it works very well. If there’s yellowing I would use the retrobright technique.
You should try to reach out to
David Hasselhof and if he is interested
In contributing toward the knight rider
Trailer restoration?
Don't forget your son was helping clean out the trailer in the summer!
Great video once again!
I wonder if will you tell us more about you, your work outside the Knight Rider Historians.
I remember you said in of your videos that your work was nothing to do with all can see on your videos
Well the engine needs a good clean up I see! :-D
That plunger on the horn button should be spring loaded and in contact with the slip ring at all times. There should be some kind of switch inside the button that connects when pressed. Very nice work on the steering wheel sewing. I'm curious how you repaired the foam on the rim. Can you explain that? Thanks!
While driving on the interstate through the 90s, I used to look for this truck. Hoping to see it. No such luck. Glad you obtained it and restoring it to what it should be. A good pressure wash on that engine would be good I think. WD 40 the stuffing out of the sensor, that should help with the rust.
well if it makes you feel any better you DID have the right idea as it was out there and working, it just had been resprayed and had all its markings changed.
@@kavinskysmith4094 I wasn't being a jerk about it. I was merely saying I used to look for it when I was younger. Hoping to see the truck. That's all. Thank you I know it's been repainted many times. Thanks for pointing that out as he already has.
@@theshih-tzudad4068 how did you get to jerk? I was just saying you had the right idea back then, that's all
@@theshih-tzudad4068 yeah no worries I DO have a habit of insulting people though
and its just like wait a minute, that one wasnt supposed to be one of those lol
@@kavinskysmith4094 It's all good. Have a great day.
But how is the RC Snowman gonna communicate with the BanditKnight with no CB Radio 10-foah?
The cut wire connects to the steering wheel boss (gmc disc) and it appears you are missing at least one , if not two springs , the spring on the top side , goes under the steering wheel boss , there may be a spring under the steering wheel itself , the steering wheel boss should just clip in , if you are missing clips , you may need to scource another complete steering wheel , if you can find a same steering wheel and column intact at a scrap yard , it may be a good thing to buy it , so you can strip it and replace missing parts , keeping the rest for parts.
"...needs *_to be_* repaired."
Okay now we have to find the Goliath rig right!
If you prep the truck your self I would be cheeper to paint.
And for the dash just put a cover on top of it so you have the original dash
Hey Joe, another amazing video! Thank You So Much for all of the hard work that you are doing! I assume that you plan on replacing all of the fluids in the tractor right? Oil, Antifreeze (coolant), transmission oil, and rear diff oil. A good cooling system flush would probably be a good idea as well. I'm sure that it has an oil cooler somewhere on the engine too, it might be a good idea to check its condition and functionality prior to running her too much to make sure that the oil is being cooled properly. All in all, she's coming along nicely! 😃
Yep it will all be done!
Just to be on the safe side , get that turbo overhauled , you dont want a turbo failure , they go without warning , you have been warned
Hi Joe, have you considered starting an online store to sell small parts you remove form the cab and trailer, and have no future use for? It'd also be easier to repair the dash than replace it.
The plunger should be spring loaded and also the wire should be connected to the horn then from the horn to ground.
Get a bottle of Plastic X plastic polish and you will be able to polish the turn signals to like new
Engine needs a big cleanup and makeover
...because a man with a needle CAN make a difference. :)
Indeed!
And change all the fluids in the engine transmission rearends
That horn assembly looks just like a Grant steering wheel assembly. If so you're probably able to get a button kit and use its parts to rebuild the guts of the OEM button, snd also how its supposed to be wired to function
If Joe can resew the steering wheel with 7th grade home ec class, I should be able to restitch my hernia.🤔
I know a place where you can get the dashboard repaired instead of getting a new piece for it it's called just dashes in California their trusted their well-known and then one of the only places in the country that can refurbish dashboards Jay Leno even uses their services
Could always put the tractor on a lowboy trailer and transport it that way.
I would defiantly have the turbo checked out in it have the seats replase as someone elce recremended that one should be rebiuldable
Mobile service is expensive. I can help with some truck stuff. Just need a way to you. I love painting.
Is the frame staying flat black? Great details for us modellers.
yes the belts dont look so good.. dont turn it on until you changed those.. also watch the timings when changing does.. diesel are fragile :)