Whetstones, Fixing some chips with the "new omurato" from Naniwa, and some other new stones.
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Today im testing out some new stones again. I'll be fixing the timestamps tomorrow :) . This time its the New omurato 150# and the chosera 3000# from Naniwa. Im also checking out the Shapton m15 1000#, and the Suehiro Shiramine 6000.
Decent stones all around. For repairwork, i might leave the omurato and go for a little faster stone, but for general/heavy duty maintenance work its an excellent choice. its also a cheap stone.
The Shapton m15, is just a kuromaku/pro mounten on a wooden stand (please correct me if im wrong on this)
The Chosera is a great soft stone to work on, an excellent finisher. Awsome to work on. Comes with a handy fixing stone, that you can use to work up a slurry from the 3k, or just to even out, if you happen to gouge the stone etc.
The shiramine is very similar to the Rika 5k. A fast working soft stone. Gives a nice toothy edge to the knife. Also a great finisher, especially for softer steels.
Love your videos. Greetings from Iceland.
Thanks. Love Iceland. Been there a few times now, both to study and for a holiday. Vestmannaeyjar and Eldfjell was a great experience 😀
This is a great video, I hope your chosera doesn't crack!!!! I watched from beginning to end, great time! Thanks
Hehe. That one was on me if it does. I didnt do my research on that one. Great stone though :) might try to get into contact with someone at naniwa about the cracking issues with some of their stones. Would love to know if it's the drying, expansion upon soaking or just dissolving that causes it.
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 lol they already know their stones crack. I still love them though hahaha
@@capolot obviously they do. I wasn't gonna "tell them". But I really would like to learn what happens, chemically, that makes the stones likely to crack if you soak them. No criticism of Naniwa, a splash and go is usually a splash and go for a reason 😀
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 they’re magnesium bonded. So I’m pretty sure long periods in water deteriorates the stone.
Wow, that is a really interesting lineup you got here. I'm interested to know the wear rate of the new omurato stone from Naniwa. typically, low grit stones tend to be soft and fast wearing but this one seems interesting. I've recently become quite obsessed with brick-sized stones, so much so I had to pick the cerax 1000 brick as well as the king deluxe 1000 XL. useless I know, but I'll reserve the cerax for the harder steels, the BD1N, HAP40, ZDP-189 and the likes. I hear the king does not do very well with anything beyond 62 HRC. I can also tell you right now to pick the chosera 800 with confidence, cuts so fast and works pretty much on any steel, it is fantastic. this can also be said for chosera 3000 but I guess you already know that. also, it might be worth noting that you may wanna consider a slightly higher angle when removing chips, learned that from Korin training videos and it worked very well for me.
Hey and welcome. Thanks for the comment :) I like the bricks because they feel more "genuine". Kinda like thats what the artisans and japanese craftsmen would use. i might be totally wrong though, but they dont feel as "catered to the western market". And its just comfortable to work on larger stones. King has released a 1000grit stone ment for harder steels, the "king hyper" but besides that, yes, king tend to be a little on the soft side for very hard steels. raising the angle will make the chips go away faster, but i would still have to lower the angle again to get the same geometry i had. but as i said, it might have been a bit low to begin with, so raising the angle here would have been a good idea :)
I really like my Chosera 3000. One of my favorite stones. I also have the Chosera 800 (also great) and the Chosera 400. Mix in my Shapton Karomaku 320 and 8000 and I have a great progression according to how fine you want to take the knife,
Shapton Pro and the Shapton M15 are the same stone from what I know just the m15/m24 is Japan's own range. The Shapton Pro is an international brand and packaging.
Thanks for the input and help. Its hard to keep track of all theese domestic/export variations at times 😅
Wonder if these cut faster than a king 300. ive heard others say the king 300 was a little finer than advertised. i do like the fact that tha Naniwa is a nice thick brick that would probably last my very long time.
30:54 the wood base is so you can use the stone down to paper thin
Do u agree with the philosophy of harder stones for softer steels and softer stones for harder steels? For example with Cerax and Shapton Pro.
Not necessarily, but its not bad advice, as softer stones are faster in general. Personally i tend to like variation so i will mix and match alot myself. Some people will tend to shy away from softer stones on harder steels as it will dish faster, but that again depends on how often you sharpen etc. I love my shaptons for hard work as they tend give results that are abit coarser then your respective naniwas and kings :)
I can only find this stone on eBay with about a month shipping time. Where did you find it? I actually do want one.
Thanks!
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Thanks. Check out ikkyu japan avenue. thats where i got mine :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278
On their site now. Looks like a dangerous place for me $$ 😂
Incidentally I just got a Naniwa pro 1000 and a Suehiro Rika 5000, you’re the only person on RUclips I’ve seen use that combo. I’m excited to break em in. I’m adding this 150 grit brick for my low stone in the new setup.
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 🤩 Amazing stone amazing shipping - it left Osaka yesterday 7th and was at my door today. I’m amazed how fast it got here. I cant get something shipped from Los Angeles that fast!
Would you go from the Cerax 1k to the Shiramine 6k?
For regular sharpening, yes. Without a doubt. But If im polishing larger surfaces i would go in as small increments as possible. :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 thanks
Awesome video.😁👏👏👏 is there much of a difference in the grit rating of the Naniwa Omurato 150# and the Naniwa Aramusha 220# ? I Quite like my Aramusha 220# for re- profiling and thining.
Tbh i have yet to try the Aramusha, but you have now put another stone on my "list" *sigh :P Im planning to resurface the new amurato to get a bit into the stone. I suspect what i experienced in this video does not reflect how the stone feels when you get a bit into it. Seometimes the top 1-2 mm can be a bit off.
Rika vs Shiramine video please!
If you had to choose only one, would you choose the Suehiro 5K or 6K?
Actually i wouldn't mind either. They are so similar, both in speed and feedback tbh.
Thanks for the response. I will pick up the 5K Rika, since its also $11 cheaper compared to the 6K Shiramine.@@lofotenknifeworks2278
Hello! I am looking into getting a pair of suehiro debado stones (1000 and 6000). They are supposed to be as good as the shapton glass, or even better, but they are much larger stones. Have you ever tried them out? Can you make a video on them if you own them? Thanks
By coincidence i actually have 3 debado LD stones lined up for my next video 😅
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 That's such great news! Please provide details during your video and try to compare against other high end stones like the choseras or the shapton glass! I am very interested to hear what you have to say!
I have the omurato among multiple naniwa stones. I never really cared for it personally i favor the 220grit aramusha pink brick over it myself
What do you like more about the pink one? Also is that the iminishi-made or “bester” 220 brick? I’ve heard of em but never used one and curious.
I have the Omurato (or whatever called lol) in the video, it’s a little soft for my tastes in the lower grit, but absolutely does have a place for *me* at least. Def not a 150 grit, I’d say at least 300-400, so picked up a Debado 200 (or is it 180, or 220… get your naming shit together Suehiro.. love their stones tho) it hasn’t arrived yet so haven’t tried it, but I’m hoping it can handle some serious repairs/reprofiles better since it’s supposed to be a harder stone
Isn't the jump from 150 to 3000 too big?
Hey and thanks for commenting. Usually yes, no doubt about it. I have yet to examine this under the microscope, but the New omurato gave a much finer finish then what i had expected (even for a Naniwa) so i wanted to give it a go. And this time it worked like a charm. Keeping in mind that im working with a soft steel here, and on a very small surface area. Great channel you have btw. you have a new subscriber ;)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 You have a new subscriber too. :)
Do you want all that metal and stone grit going down your drain pipe?
Not really. Im working on another solution though. Im looking at creating my own stone pond, i just cant decide how i want it. I tried with a plastic container, but it was just to flimsy and kept bending whenever i wanted to apply some pressure. But thanks for commenting though. If you have any original ideas im all ears :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 --- I use a plastic dish washing container and then I dump the water and grit in my yard.
@@jawbaw6471 yea thats kinda the way im leaning as well. I put in an order for a pretty bulky container today. so we will see if this one is any better than the last. I live in the middle of nowwhere so i need to order these things :P
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 --- I came up with an idea about 4 hours ago. I have never tried it but it might work. Put a coffee filter in the drain hole. Maybe it will catch the grit while the water passes through.
Don't soak Choseras! they'll crack.
Thanks for the tip. Didnt read up properly on the chosera before I decided to use it. It is all splash and go from now on 😁
You dont polish the blade with slurry, and definitely not deburr with slurry!
You should have learned this allready.
You apply what you see in other sharpening videos, but most are amateurs, with no basic understanding of metalurgy.
I am by no means an expert on anything :) but what i do love is feedback. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and i would really like to hear not only that i AM wrong, but also WHY so that myself and those who may read this can learn from you :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Slurry is loose abrasive combined with swarf that rounds the edge when pressure control is not managed right.
Anything that gets in contact with a clean apex will damage it at a structure level, where the edge/apex is verry thin at microscopic level.
Loose abrasive means smaller particles, that will not deburr as efficient as fresh unloose abrasive particles.
Regarding polish with or without slurry, you can test that verry simple and see the results.
And yes, you do many things right, i watch and enjoy your videos and i thank you for al the reviews 😍
I wish though you show the type of finish you get from each stone you review.
That would help see the scratch pattern specially in progression from coarser stone up to finishing stones.
Have you tried Cerax CR 6000 grit? I cant find enough reviews/feedback in behavior about this stone and i'm trying to decide if buy it or not.
@@TocilarulTimisorean thank you for getting back to me :) i havent had the pleasure yet unfortunately. Regarding the closeups, yesterday i actually bought a KERN OZL 464C825 microscope with an integrated camera just for that purpose. Gotta wait for the mail though. i have a chinese usb-cam, but i was never happy with the imagery. Its ok for my own use though when im examining the edges :)