Agree. Rotary mowers are for use on OTHER people's land---the flail is for your own. "Duck-bill" flails are for grass and produce a "cut" equivalent to, or better than a "finish mower's" results, better than, actually, because they don't leave windrows of "mulch" like finish and rotary mowers do. I use my top link to hold up the front of the mower, allowing the aft roller to contact the ground all the time. That way you can just throw the three-point lift control lever all the way down every time without any danger of scalping. Control cutting height with your top link (which is under compression rather than tension in this application). This also allows the mower to follow the contours of the land without jumping up in the air when the tractor goes over a hump (which is what happens when using the lift arms to control cutting height...) I keep one set up for grass/lawns with "Y" blades (or duckbills) the other with hammers for brush/minor "forestry mulching." (two-inch stuff and smaller) It is a true saying that once you've used a flail, you'll never go back to a "scalp hog" mower. My rotary mowers sit forlorn, unloved and unused over by a fence row. But no one will buy 'em once they see your flail mower's results.....
Excellent reply and great points. I think I'll keep the Rhino rotary cutter for one of my fields that seems to grow big rocks. It's easier to sharpen cutter blades than to sharpen all of the hammers in my opinion. The offset and articulating aspect of the flail mower is an absolute game changer.
Have used a 6’ flail on our pastures for years and love the results. Just ordered a ditch bank flail to reclaim some field encroachment on other parts of the property. Flail is especially good for pasture work because of the mulching to prevent encroachment of broadleaf weeds, which are not good forage for our horses. Have never used a rotary mower.
These ditch bank flail mowers are a little bit more upkeep to keep running, but definitely a better cut than rotary brush. I have a Betstco AGL165, and I just had my hydraulic cylinder fail on mine after 60h of use. Taking them to a local hydraulic shop for new piston rings and seals and have them camber the ports inside the cylinder.
Agreed. I certainly hope I don't run into those type of problems at the 60 hour mark though! One thing I do wish was different was the drive system. I'm not a fan of the 3 belt drive and would much prefer a gear driven system protected by a slip clutch. For the price point though I'll just have to settle with the belts and use the Rhino rotary cutter for very tall and lush grass. The hammers also require a lot more maintenance to keep them sharpened mainly because I use them to mulch up saplings and woody stemmed stuff down in the woods.
One thing no one who owns one mentions the horse power requirements these mulches need. I have a tractor with less than forty hp and this here mulcher needs over that to operate properly. The same with my mulcher that is designed for 40hp a larger tractor would have too much power and could damage it.
Agreed. It's always a good idea to talk to the manufacturer and fit the implement to your tractor. At least take a look at the specs online if nothing else.
I'll have to measure it and get back to you but yes, it comes with the flail mower. I did not have to shorten the shaft if that helps. I'll get collapsed and extended measurements for you this week (unless anyone here cares to share?).
@@hiddenacresoutdoors Thank you, and I appreciate that! I have a TYM 494 and a TMG offset flail mower. The PTO shaft that came with it is too short, and before I spend a few hundred dollars on a new one, I'm trying to make sure I get the right one.
I haven't forgotten you. I have an air lock on the kukje engine that the mechanic is trying to clear. It won't start at the moment and the flail mower is attached to the tractor. Ergo, I can't get the fully collapsed and extended measurements quite yet. I'll get them to you as soon as this thing is fixed.
Sorry for the long delay in getting back to you. I haven't cut the driveshaft it came with. It collapses to 54" and extends to the 78" to 80" range. I didn't pull it all the way apart. The max extension needed when I have the mower all the way extended to the side using the TYM 574 is 78"ish. Hope that helps and again, sorry for the long delay.
Yes, you can get replacement hammers for the Titan. I bought a pack of five with the machine and they also sent me replacement hammers for the ones I damaged when it ate the safety chains. Agreed on the Rhino rotary. It's a great machine.
Agree. Rotary mowers are for use on OTHER people's land---the flail is for your own. "Duck-bill" flails are for grass and produce a "cut" equivalent to, or better than a "finish mower's" results, better than, actually, because they don't leave windrows of "mulch" like finish and rotary mowers do. I use my top link to hold up the front of the mower, allowing the aft roller to contact the ground all the time. That way you can just throw the three-point lift control lever all the way down every time without any danger of scalping. Control cutting height with your top link (which is under compression rather than tension in this application). This also allows the mower to follow the contours of the land without jumping up in the air when the tractor goes over a hump (which is what happens when using the lift arms to control cutting height...) I keep one set up for grass/lawns with "Y" blades (or duckbills) the other with hammers for brush/minor "forestry mulching." (two-inch stuff and smaller) It is a true saying that once you've used a flail, you'll never go back to a "scalp hog" mower. My rotary mowers sit forlorn, unloved and unused over by a fence row. But no one will buy 'em once they see your flail mower's results.....
Excellent reply and great points. I think I'll keep the Rhino rotary cutter for one of my fields that seems to grow big rocks. It's easier to sharpen cutter blades than to sharpen all of the hammers in my opinion. The offset and articulating aspect of the flail mower is an absolute game changer.
Have used a 6’ flail on our pastures for years and love the results. Just ordered a ditch bank flail to reclaim some field encroachment on other parts of the property. Flail is especially good for pasture work because of the mulching to prevent encroachment of broadleaf weeds, which are not good forage for our horses. Have never used a rotary mower.
Love ours. Adjusted correctly they're hands down above a rotary cutter - just a bit more expensive and a bit more maintenance in my opinion.
These ditch bank flail mowers are a little bit more upkeep to keep running, but definitely a better cut than rotary brush. I have a Betstco AGL165, and I just had my hydraulic cylinder fail on mine after 60h of use. Taking them to a local hydraulic shop for new piston rings and seals and have them camber the ports inside the cylinder.
Agreed. I certainly hope I don't run into those type of problems at the 60 hour mark though! One thing I do wish was different was the drive system. I'm not a fan of the 3 belt drive and would much prefer a gear driven system protected by a slip clutch. For the price point though I'll just have to settle with the belts and use the Rhino rotary cutter for very tall and lush grass. The hammers also require a lot more maintenance to keep them sharpened mainly because I use them to mulch up saplings and woody stemmed stuff down in the woods.
One thing no one who owns one mentions the horse power requirements these mulches need.
I have a tractor with less than forty hp and this here mulcher needs over that to operate properly.
The same with my mulcher that is designed for 40hp a larger tractor would have too much power and could damage it.
Agreed. It's always a good idea to talk to the manufacturer and fit the implement to your tractor. At least take a look at the specs online if nothing else.
How long is your PTO drive shaft, and did it come with the mower?
I'll have to measure it and get back to you but yes, it comes with the flail mower. I did not have to shorten the shaft if that helps. I'll get collapsed and extended measurements for you this week (unless anyone here cares to share?).
@@hiddenacresoutdoors Thank you, and I appreciate that! I have a TYM 494 and a TMG offset flail mower. The PTO shaft that came with it is too short, and before I spend a few hundred dollars on a new one, I'm trying to make sure I get the right one.
I haven't forgotten you. I have an air lock on the kukje engine that the mechanic is trying to clear. It won't start at the moment and the flail mower is attached to the tractor. Ergo, I can't get the fully collapsed and extended measurements quite yet. I'll get them to you as soon as this thing is fixed.
Sorry for the long delay in getting back to you. I haven't cut the driveshaft it came with. It collapses to 54" and extends to the 78" to 80" range. I didn't pull it all the way apart. The max extension needed when I have the mower all the way extended to the side using the TYM 574 is 78"ish. Hope that helps and again, sorry for the long delay.
can you get blades for the titan? did you try ? i seen another video they had issues. rhino is top quality on ur rotary
Yes, you can get replacement hammers for the Titan. I bought a pack of five with the machine and they also sent me replacement hammers for the ones I damaged when it ate the safety chains. Agreed on the Rhino rotary. It's a great machine.