You're very welcome. I'm glad I can help. I was looking for help myself so when I finally figured out how to get it done, I figured other people might need the help too
I changed the rear tire and inner tube and didn't have to disconnect the wires in the junction box. It was pretty easy to do you just had the wire still connected so it had to stay close to the bike while you worked on it.
I have the same bike and wondered how to deal with the wire to the hub from the motor . That helped me a lot . Thanks mate . Happy riding . They are great bikes .
Don't get too crazy. The back tire it comes with tends to chirp around corners. You might want to replace it soon with a more aggressive tread, and save that tire for when you need to replace the front. A better tread will not slow the bike down to any noticeable amount, and you will get a much better grip on the road.
I should have checked how old this video was. Mine is a couple years older, and nothing like what is shown. Ancheer made it more complicated than ever to get the back wheel off. Serves me right for not researching it before I bought it!!!
I have a Ancheer Blue Spark we just changed out the tire by doing everything you said too but when we assembled it back together my throttle and motor are not registering anything. It gives a tiny kick to the battery but will not move even with peddle assist. The bike just won't move and the wheel is on correctly by the look of it. Do you know if there's an extra step with mine? I can't find anywhere my problem at all.
I would say go back in and make sure your wires are firmly connected. I had absolutely no problem with mine. It went back together properly and it runs like a charm.
@@johngajdos7950 we found the wires were damaged from weather and tear around the coil on the hub where it connects. Tried a patch job and it's still won't function or get a full connection. The wheel I getting a slight connection but the power going in is not enough to move the motor. The wires are dead in a few places and we pulled the full wire connection out by removing the C ring on the connector holing the wires in. It took us a few minutes to figure out the motor is a freewheel I am already in contact with a few dealers to replace the full assembly of the rear rim and hub. We don't know why the wires were cut around the coil but the jarring movements to unhook the wheel killed what my bike was puttering with without any knowledge of the sudden damage. Thank you for replying though we tried that and trust me I know it I a pain to reconnect the wires securely and safely. Easy to bend the pins and the secure water tight fit makes connection a nightmare.i marked exactly where the caps meet when fully assembled before disconnecting for this issue alone. Ancheet has been 0 help with acquiring the parts and where I live bike shops won't touch it like it's some sort of debyk box of until evils.
I'm sorry you're having so much bad luck with that. When I changed mine out, the bike was in nearly new condition. I made sure the cable was completely free and not stressed at all when I pulled the wheel away from the frame. I'm brand new at this thing myself and that's why I had to figure out how to change the tire. I wonder if there is any way you can actually rewire your bike. If you do, make sure you get the same gauge of wire that is in them now. Good luck. I got my bike online through Walmart. Maybe if you check Walmart's catalog, you might find replacement parts. I really don't know for sure though
@@johngajdos7950 the control box and speed control are actually very simple to find and disconnect. The issue is Ancheer manufacturers squinted silicone all over the wires so removal will be a pain in the bum. We found a universal bike shop in a town and they have the rear wheel with hub. They are going to try and find the parts for us and put it back together. We took it to trek and I think the repair guy actually cut the wire and tried to hide it as the damages were not there when I first inspected it. But they only work on their brands so sabotaging my bike to make me buy their brand is pretty crappy. I think they made the problem worse. It was just a fringed wire from wear and tear and they took an exacto knife to the base cable. The repair shop now is being super cooperative and kind. I'm hoping they get it going again soon. I love riding my bike it's so liberating!
If you have the proper work area, and you can keep the tire right next to the bike, you can change the tube out without having to go through all this other procedure. Just make sure the wires are under the wheel when you're doing it
I've also got one of these bikes same model with the original tyres. my back wheel got a flat tyre so I need a new inner tube what size inner tube would fit the back wheel & tyre best?. It's got the 26in wheels Im more concerned with the inner tube width I'd need for it. It says on the back tyre 26 x 1.95/50-559. Would a 26 x 1.70 - 2.10 Sized inner tube fit it OK? or would it need a different size inner tube. - very helpful video thanks!
The inner tube should be fine. The 26-in measurement is what's critical for the tube. The other measurements are critical for the tire fitting the rim properly. I got myself a nice big knobby tire for the back wheel, and it didn't seem to slow the bike down at all. It also gave me much better traction for turns.
I replaced the inner tube on the rear wheel with a self ceiling slime filled inner tube and also used a old inner tube as a tire liner to sit between the new inner tube & the inside of the tyre for additional protection against punctures (it was a bit of a nightmare taking it all apart and putting it all back together again lol) the bikes working ok now thanks again for the info.
You can only do that if you get an appropriate rim, but in the case of this bicycle, that would have to include the disc brake setup. I suggest you stick with the size that is meant for it
Awesome. I'm so glad I can be of help. I've been using my bike for four seasons now. I finally found me a second battery that I can carry with me and switch when one runs out
The gear shift derailleur assembly on the back wheel gears has springs in it to keep the chain taut. Rotate the assembly toward the back end of the bike to move it out of the way so that the wheel will come out. Notice the flattened parts on the ends of the axle. These must line up to slide back into place when you reinsert the wheel. This is what allows the motor to rotate the back wheel without spinning the axle as well.
If you're dealing with rust, WD-40 is a penetrating oil that will loosen the threads. Apply it and wait for it to penetrate. Apply a second time, and then try to remove the nuts from the boit. Remember that the driver axle has a slot that must align with the mount. Without that slot, the torque of the motor would slip.
Make sure you grab the plug connectors and not the wires. Gently Rock them back and forth as you pull. You might try working them apart with the blade of a butter knife. They will eventually come apart. It seems like I had to actually cut a little piece of plastic on the tiny gang box connection to get it to unplug. You can get away with all of it if you have a rack to hang the bike on and a table where you can work on the wheel close enough to the bike to change the tire.
3 wires to the motor? Simply cut 2 inches off the wire cover and stagger cut the wires and install 3 connectors. Red or blue crimp connectors, either butt or plug types and eliminate taking everything apart ever again to replace your back tire.
@@johngajdos7950 Before you do that I just had to take my bike in for a rear tire flat at a bike shop.. He hung it on a bike service stand and used a roll around stool to help him replace the tire and tube. No need to disconnect anything except the rear disk brake. He only removed the existing zip ties and kept the wheel close to the bike. The change out took him less time than a regular bike!
@@johngajdos7950 Sometimes a bike shop is the best answer. My tires were worn out already, so for about 80 USD they replaced both tires and tubes with high quality materials plus a nice new saddle.. Got 3 years out of the originals so it was basically dirt cheap. Note, they also replaced a broken brake lever and the rear disk brake that was warped badly. Good to have professionals to give it a once over.
Nice effort but now my bike is fucked. I did what you said but the wiring is soldered inside. It doesn't unplug. The back wheel won't come off with both nuts unscrewed and is now stuck crocked and unrideable.
The axles are slotted and you may not have the slots lined up. Those slots have to fit in the frame properly in order for the motor to deliver torque to the bicycle. If it came apart, it'll go back together. Take it apart and try again. I just changed my back tire for the third time.
I'm so screwed my bike don't have a disconnect on the power cable going to the hub it's one long cable so if I need to change my rear tire I'm basically screwed 😏
@@johngajdos7950 yes it's a 20 inch fat tire folding ebike..I saw a video showing how to repair a flat tire and how to change a tire on the rear wheel without removing the wheel and trust me it's going to be a pain in the you know what..
@@miespost I ordered new tires cause I noticed the rear tire is wearing down way faster than the front so I'll try to install the rear tire like the video I've seen without removing the entire wheel..
I for the life of me can't find spare parts anywhere. I need a new tube and Tire for the rear. As it stand I'll be staying as far away from Ancheer as I can.
26 inch by 1.95 tire will fit. I recommend a knobby tire because I noticed the ones that it comes with tends to chirp around the corners. I've been using knobby's ever since my first change out
Immensely helpful video. Without you we'd be lost. Thanks John!
Thank you so much. I'm so glad I can help. I apologize for taking so long to get back to you
Thanks a ton! Your video came in clutch.
You're very welcome. I'm glad I can help. I was looking for help myself so when I finally figured out how to get it done, I figured other people might need the help too
I changed the rear tire and inner tube and didn't have to disconnect the wires in the junction box. It was pretty easy to do you just had the wire still connected so it had to stay close to the bike while you worked on it.
Yes, it can be done with the wire still connected if you have the work area that will allow you to do that
Thank you both, I found this comment helpful as its less stressful doing what Dave done.
I'm glad a read comments first.
Thanks again guys!
@@robertdunn76I'm glad you were able to skip the cable removing process. I don't have proper workspace to facilitate that option
Thanks. I've had mine for about three years and the rubber finally wore off the back tire. I just wish they would go further on just the motor.
I eat up about a back tire per season. Good hefty tread too. But I'm a pretty heavy dude.
I have the same bike and wondered how to deal with the wire to the hub from the motor . That helped me a lot . Thanks mate . Happy riding . They are great bikes .
Awesome! I'm so glad I could help. You're very welcome. Yes, they are great bikes.
This video was extremely helpful thank you sir!!!
Very glad to hear that. Thank you
Thanks. My new Ancheer ebike should arrive in a week or so. I look forward to riding it enough to wear out the back tire..
Don't get too crazy. The back tire it comes with tends to chirp around corners. You might want to replace it soon with a more aggressive tread, and save that tire for when you need to replace the front. A better tread will not slow the bike down to any noticeable amount, and you will get a much better grip on the road.
I should have checked how old this video was. Mine is a couple years older, and nothing like what is shown. Ancheer made it more complicated than ever to get the back wheel off. Serves me right for not researching it before I bought it!!!
I have a Ancheer Blue Spark we just changed out the tire by doing everything you said too but when we assembled it back together my throttle and motor are not registering anything. It gives a tiny kick to the battery but will not move even with peddle assist. The bike just won't move and the wheel is on correctly by the look of it. Do you know if there's an extra step with mine? I can't find anywhere my problem at all.
I would say go back in and make sure your wires are firmly connected. I had absolutely no problem with mine. It went back together properly and it runs like a charm.
@@johngajdos7950 we found the wires were damaged from weather and tear around the coil on the hub where it connects. Tried a patch job and it's still won't function or get a full connection. The wheel I getting a slight connection but the power going in is not enough to move the motor. The wires are dead in a few places and we pulled the full wire connection out by removing the C ring on the connector holing the wires in. It took us a few minutes to figure out the motor is a freewheel I am already in contact with a few dealers to replace the full assembly of the rear rim and hub. We don't know why the wires were cut around the coil but the jarring movements to unhook the wheel killed what my bike was puttering with without any knowledge of the sudden damage.
Thank you for replying though we tried that and trust me I know it I a pain to reconnect the wires securely and safely. Easy to bend the pins and the secure water tight fit makes connection a nightmare.i marked exactly where the caps meet when fully assembled before disconnecting for this issue alone. Ancheet has been 0 help with acquiring the parts and where I live bike shops won't touch it like it's some sort of debyk box of until evils.
I'm sorry you're having so much bad luck with that. When I changed mine out, the bike was in nearly new condition. I made sure the cable was completely free and not stressed at all when I pulled the wheel away from the frame. I'm brand new at this thing myself and that's why I had to figure out how to change the tire. I wonder if there is any way you can actually rewire your bike. If you do, make sure you get the same gauge of wire that is in them now. Good luck. I got my bike online through Walmart. Maybe if you check Walmart's catalog, you might find replacement parts. I really don't know for sure though
@@johngajdos7950 the control box and speed control are actually very simple to find and disconnect. The issue is Ancheer manufacturers squinted silicone all over the wires so removal will be a pain in the bum. We found a universal bike shop in a town and they have the rear wheel with hub. They are going to try and find the parts for us and put it back together. We took it to trek and I think the repair guy actually cut the wire and tried to hide it as the damages were not there when I first inspected it. But they only work on their brands so sabotaging my bike to make me buy their brand is pretty crappy. I think they made the problem worse. It was just a fringed wire from wear and tear and they took an exacto knife to the base cable. The repair shop now is being super cooperative and kind. I'm hoping they get it going again soon. I love riding my bike it's so liberating!
Is just changing the tube any easier
If you have the proper work area, and you can keep the tire right next to the bike, you can change the tube out without having to go through all this other procedure. Just make sure the wires are under the wheel when you're doing it
Thank you John this helped me out a lot. Cheers
I'm very glad to be able to help. Please look around my RUclips channel. I forgot about 20 categories of films
I've also got one of these bikes same model with the original tyres. my back wheel got a flat tyre so I need a new inner tube what size inner tube would fit the back wheel & tyre best?. It's got the 26in wheels Im more concerned with the inner tube width I'd need for it. It says on the back tyre
26 x 1.95/50-559.
Would a 26 x 1.70 - 2.10
Sized inner tube fit it OK? or would it need a different size inner tube. - very helpful video thanks!
The inner tube should be fine. The 26-in measurement is what's critical for the tube. The other measurements are critical for the tire fitting the rim properly. I got myself a nice big knobby tire for the back wheel, and it didn't seem to slow the bike down at all. It also gave me much better traction for turns.
I replaced the inner tube on the rear wheel with a self ceiling slime filled inner tube and also used a old inner tube as a tire liner to sit between the new inner tube & the inside of the tyre for additional protection against punctures (it was a bit of a nightmare taking it all apart and putting it all back together again lol) the bikes working ok now thanks again for the info.
@@tomjones715 excellent. The extra effort will be well worth it. I'm glad I could help and when the time comes, I will use your tips on my bicycle
@@johngajdos7950How to use old inner tube as a tire liner to help prevent punctures.
ruclips.net/video/CymFi5qY6O4/видео.html
@@tomjones715 awesome video. Thank you very much
Great video with insight. You are a godsend bro.
Thank you. I'm so glad I can help. Hope you check out the rest of my RUclips videos. I've got lots of fun stuff to see
I just bought one of these and this video is really helpful - thanks!
I'm so glad I could help. I'm really surprised at how many people have watched this video
Can I upgrade from a 26 x 1.7 to a 26 x 2.1 Tire?
You can only do that if you get an appropriate rim, but in the case of this bicycle, that would have to include the disc brake setup. I suggest you stick with the size that is meant for it
Thank you for making this video, i am helping a nabor change the rear tube on the same bike you have. This video helped alot
Awesome. I'm so glad I can be of help. I've been using my bike for four seasons now. I finally found me a second battery that I can carry with me and switch when one runs out
Thank you for the help
You're very welcome
Hi John..Thank you for this very helpful video.
You are so welcome. I'm very glad I can help.
The hero we needed. Thank you so much king 👑
I'm really glad I could be of help
thank you, this made life much easier
You're welcome. I'm always glad to be able to help
Sounds simple but my back tire won't come off. It seems stuck, or I'm missing something. I loosened up breaks even and back wheel won't budge.
The gear shift derailleur assembly on the back wheel gears has springs in it to keep the chain taut. Rotate the assembly toward the back end of the bike to move it out of the way so that the wheel will come out. Notice the flattened parts on the ends of the axle. These must line up to slide back into place when you reinsert the wheel. This is what allows the motor to rotate the back wheel without spinning the axle as well.
@@johngajdos7950 Jesus loves you
Jesus loves you
Yes! He absolutely does, and I love Jesus too
Amen. All honor and praise goes to Jesus, the author of creation
Can't get anything around or in the derailer guard to break the bolt free and change the tire, please help
If you're dealing with rust, WD-40 is a penetrating oil that will loosen the threads. Apply it and wait for it to penetrate. Apply a second time, and then try to remove the nuts from the boit. Remember that the driver axle has a slot that must align with the mount. Without that slot, the torque of the motor would slip.
@@johngajdos7950 Itas that the derailer guard was in the way, just needed a smaller, fixed spanner. Thanls, Brother!
THANKS from INDIA
You are very welcome. I hope this video explained everything well enough
Thank you for this video 👍
You're welcome. I'm so glad I could help. Look around through my other playlists. There's plenty to see and hear and do
I tried to disconnect the wires but they refuse to detached and I am afraid to pull them apart. Is there a trick to eat?
Make sure you grab the plug connectors and not the wires. Gently Rock them back and forth as you pull. You might try working them apart with the blade of a butter knife. They will eventually come apart. It seems like I had to actually cut a little piece of plastic on the tiny gang box connection to get it to unplug. You can get away with all of it if you have a rack to hang the bike on and a table where you can work on the wheel close enough to the bike to change the tire.
Nice one thanks
You're welcome. Glad I can help
Literally a God Bro
Oh, no. Just a plain old dude. Check through the other playlists in my RUclips channel
Thank you so much, solved my problem!
You're very welcome. I'm glad I could help
3 wires to the motor?
Simply cut 2 inches off the wire cover and stagger cut the wires and install 3 connectors.
Red or blue crimp connectors, either butt or plug types and eliminate taking everything apart ever again to replace your back tire.
Yes, I was planning on installing connectors like that within the main cable just in front of the back tire
@@johngajdos7950 Before you do that I just had to take my bike in for a rear tire flat at a bike shop.. He hung it on a bike service stand and used a roll around stool to help him replace the tire and tube.
No need to disconnect anything except the rear disk brake. He only removed the existing zip ties and kept the wheel close to the bike.
The change out took him less time than a regular bike!
@@johngajdos7950 I was going to do that but the mechanic said no need, just watch.
Yes, it is much easier to do when you have those tools. I don't have any of those things myself
@@johngajdos7950 Sometimes a bike shop is the best answer. My tires were worn out already, so for about 80 USD they replaced both tires and tubes with high quality materials plus a nice new saddle.. Got 3 years out of the originals so it was basically dirt cheap.
Note, they also replaced a broken brake lever and the rear disk brake that was warped badly.
Good to have professionals to give it a once over.
Nice effort but now my bike is fucked. I did what you said but the wiring is soldered inside. It doesn't unplug. The back wheel won't come off with both nuts unscrewed and is now stuck crocked and unrideable.
The axles are slotted and you may not have the slots lined up. Those slots have to fit in the frame properly in order for the motor to deliver torque to the bicycle. If it came apart, it'll go back together. Take it apart and try again. I just changed my back tire for the third time.
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome. I'm glad to be able to help
I can't get the bike wheel off because the disc brake is stuck to the bike
The brake disk is attached to the wheel. The brake mechanism is attached to the bike. You don't want to remove the brake mechanism
I'm so screwed my bike don't have a disconnect on the power cable going to the hub it's one long cable so if I need to change my rear tire I'm basically screwed 😏
Do you have a bike other than the one I have in the video?
@@johngajdos7950 yes it's a 20 inch fat tire folding ebike..I saw a video showing how to repair a flat tire and how to change a tire on the rear wheel without removing the wheel and trust me it's going to be a pain in the you know what..
@@trini_boi2414 if you open the controller box you can disconnect the motor phase wires and the holofect sensor wire and completely remove the motor.
@@miespost I ordered new tires cause I noticed the rear tire is wearing down way faster than the front so I'll try to install the rear tire like the video I've seen without removing the entire wheel..
I for the life of me can't find spare parts anywhere. I need a new tube and Tire for the rear. As it stand I'll be staying as far away from Ancheer as I can.
26 inch by 1.95 tire will fit. I recommend a knobby tire because I noticed the ones that it comes with tends to chirp around the corners. I've been using knobby's ever since my first change out