My DREAM Workbench Build // PART 2: The Drawers using the Quarter Quarter Quarter Method
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
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The _"Math Ending In:"_ countdown timer was hilarious! Love it.
The timer would confuse Einstein.
I’m impressed with your conservative use of “R”s in your projects, especially draws. One never knows when an extra”R” or two might be needed for some emergency -like Pirate Day.
Oh thank god, I thought I was having a stroke. A stoke. A...
If she needs more "R"s, she can get them from "bigger" and "quarter".
Pirate day is my favorite day.
I think it's a New England thing.
Here in Louisiana, we call them droars.
7:28 Thank you! those fractions are still confusing, even after all these years of following American woodworkers on RUclips 😄
Came to hear you say "Drawers" 97 times, left satisfied. // Nice work! Never heard of the qtr/qtr/qtr method, great to learn something new! Bench is looking great, maple and walnut never fail to impress.
Thanks so much! Glad you were left satisfied 😂
Understood perfectly...even after having 6 beers. Great teacher.
Only Six, Rookie
My friend from college said “draws” and this reminds me of her accent so much! She was from Bergen County!
Haha some people get so angry when they hear it for the first time and they think I’m doing it on purpose 😂
Nice done Tam!!💯👍
I don’t have time to watch this before work, but started the video just to hear Tamar say “drawers!” She says it just like my college friend from PA. 😂
You have a lovely voice and a lovely accent.
I love the accent, it’s endearing AND it reminds me of my first exposure to woodworking video content - Norm Abram ❤ don’t let em get you down!
Nicely done. In the 1/4-1/4-1/4 method, if you use a 1/4" auxiliary fence between the fence and dado stack when cutting the rabbets on the fronts and backs, you can process the pieces through flat on the table using a miter gauge just like the side piece dados. No adjusting of fence or blade required.
My thoughts exactly. She used the 1/4" thick board to make that distance between the fence and the blade, it would be quite easy to clamp that same board to the fence and cut all those rabbets.
Also, the use of a sacrificial fence would allow for using all thicknesses of material. You just use the appropriate thickness of the fence piece.
I think I'm going to try this idea next time I do drawers. I tried doing it they way Tamar did and I about shat myself with how unsafe it felt.
I thought this
That's what I did when I tried this. It did make the rabbets SLIGHTLY too small (the blade cut into the fence a tiny fraction) but it turned out just fine. I also used the same thing to turn the grove on the bottom into a rabet, so I could drop in the bottom panel. However, I don't recommend that: the bottom kind of scrapes along the face of the drawer under it.
great work! Just FYI, when cutting the rabbets, you don't need to have the piece upright like you did. You can just put a 1/4" sacrificial fence on and then the board can lay flat when cutting (like you did with the dados).
Also, if you need a heavier duty drawer, you can use 1/2" ply for the bottom and put a 1/4" rabbet all around.
I was wondering why she didn’t set up the router table
watching your videos now is so bitter sweet.
I used to be able to relate more when you had beginner tools.
Proud of you!
All the naysayers about the nice tools must not have been watching your channel very long. Very happy to see you upgrading, very well deserved.
Much as I am disinclined to watch a 30 minute video that covers things that I already mostly know, your presentation and enthusiasm is so engaging that I watched all the way through. And, in fact, I actually learned something along the way so thank you.
The metric popup was very helpful in simplifying the concept.
Awesome
Another great build. Despite your skill and that amazing shop, you come off as very down to earth, and I have learned a lot from you over the years. Thanks for your efforts.
☺️☺️ awesome to hear
Most information packed video ever, and yet digestible. No small feet… I mean feat.
Great Video, Tamar. One thing, many people leave the bottom of the drawers floating instead of gluing them in. Then it doesn't matter if they are slightly loose. Also, joining three of the sides together and then sliding the bottom in, without glue, makes the assembly process fairly quick.
I like the design of the fronts - the no hardware look is attractive and functional the way you made them - of course, sawdust may be able to get in the drawers.
Gluing the plywood bottoms in increases the strength and durability a lot, like > 10x! (that's a no math estimate)
There's nothing like your subwoofer rattling your drawer bottoms because they've all been left unglued. It adds a unique character to any room.
@@weldabar The wood is going to expand and contract, especially since this is a garage workshop. Leaving the "floating" as opposed to glue them prevents the bottoms from bowing and warping. The method Tamar is using to join the sides and back is plenty of strength.
@@Pepperrelish The plywood does not expand and contract. The drawer frame also does not expand and contract - wood does not expand and contract in length, so the drawer frame is stable in size (the height changes with season, but not the width or depth). So gluing plywood adds a lot of strength and does not cause any problems.
@@weldabar that is just not correct. All wood will be affect by moisture changes and will and expand and contract. If you bond it tightly like Tamar has it will bow and warp. I speak from experience but believe what you will. Lay a piece of plywood on your garage floor for several weeks and see what happens.
That roll-up door with windows at 3:55 is a nice way to let in natural light without giving up wall space to windows.
I know, right? When I finally get around to setting up my garage workshop, windowed roll-up doors will be a high priority.
I said the same thing, I will never using a different method for plywood draws. You are brave - I made sure to make a complete draw out of scrap before I committed; made lots of adjustments. This makes the strongest draws and once you get going does it really fast. It's not difficult after you give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
I was SO excited for this video, just so I could hear “Draws” over and over and over. Lololol
11/10, did not disappoint
if you get all "nominal" thickness plywood you can just use metric for your drawer method. The 1/4" is 6mm, 1/2" is 12mm. The only part that might be tricky using metric is getting the dado blade to the proper thickness, but they typically have a setup for nominal thickness plywood. This is extra true if baltic birch is being used, because that's all manufactured with metric units in mind.
I remember when your channel started, before you converted your garage into a workshop. You were working inside your house, sitting on the carpet. All these years later, so much more experienced, and once again you're working inside your house and sitting on the carpet. You've come full circle!
Haha I don’t think that was me 😂😂
So fun watching you make things! You always work so efficiently. I wish I was as quick as you at finding the perfect blade height on table saw cuts. It's like an hour process for me! 😏
An entire video of you saying 'drawers'. I love it!!
I came to see the workbench finished and stayed for the druhs. : )
😁😂😂
The bench is really coming together nicely. Those drawer fronts look really nice too. I built Steve Johnson's 5S style cabinets using quarter inch ply and had the same issue with the plywood being loose in the grove in the sides holding the cabinet backs. I switched from the dado stack to one of those special plywood router bits on the router table. Yeah, extra setup, but it worked really well. Can't wait for Part 3.
I always mean to pick those up. I need to get them already. Ha
Whiteside has a 3 piece set of them that are fantastic.
Oh good! I can't wait to see the "dwa-uhs" installed!
😂
A MUCH safer way to cut the Rabbet for the Fronts and Backs, rather than trying to hold the pieces vertical, just place a 1/4" sacrificial board against the fence, then you cut the rabbet like you did the dadoes. Still no need to adjust the dado blade or fence, but you move the drawer piece out 1/4" and it lays flat on the table bed when cutting the rabbet. No lost fingers or severe cuts and accidents.
I've made many, many drawers with this method. And yes, I cut the end rabbits by adding the 1/4 inch (or half) spacer block to the fence which allows for laying the drawer ends down on the table.
Came here just to say it may have been easier to lay it down like that. Or to just make those rabbets after she was finished with all the dados and could adjust the fence.
I don't know if you'll see this comment one day but it doesn't matter, your videos changed my life : I was an unhappy computer engineer and now all I want to do is build things with my hands.
You are a source of inspiration and motivation to me, I hope one day I will be able to do 1/3 of what you can do.
Thank you for everything, and please never stop your videos ❤🇫🇷
Wow, that is so awesome to hear! Best of luck!!!
VERY well done, Tamar!!! You never disappoint. Such a good video. God bless and keep up the good work!
So awesome to hear!
I had to pause, because I was in tears when the math ending counter popped up!😂😂😂😂 keep crushing it!
😂😂😂 had to RUclips how to add a count down timer to a video 😂
Great Build! I have a suggestion to avoid standing the material on end for the front and back rabbets. Use your miter gauge much like you did the dadoes, but add a quarter-inch spacer block before the cut and run it through laid flat. (A little less dicey 😁)
Or do the rabbets last and use a jig.
This was like a drawer building clinic! I’m keeping this video saved.
Awesome. Glad you found it informative!
You have come such a long way from just a few years ago. Your shop, your skills and your channel gets better all the time.
THANK you for doing these instructional videos for us and showing your artistic experience in what you do i a been a watchn you from beginning and you grow long way THANK you for closed caption iam deaf i pay attention to what you do and i larn a lot i turned my walkout basement into a woodshop and teach my grandchildren and daughters woodworking as family now they want to sell on etsy and craft shows i not as introverted now thank you Bill the deaf man can woodworker from Kansas
That’s awesome!!! So glad the videos are inspiring!
Love your enthusiasm. Absolutely no good reason to cut the drawer sides oriented the way you are. Just lay them flat.
You'd have to reset the fence which is what this method tries to avoid. Not sure it's worth, but that's what she was trying to demonstrate.
@@lorewarden1231You wouldn't reset the fence with a rabbet, otherwise you'd cut into it. You'd clamp on a sacrificial fence or stick on a stop block ahead of the blade then hold the piece against the miter bar as it is run past the blade. Neither method changes your fence or blade setting and is safer and more accurate than running the stock through vertically
@@G0F15H You're right, slapping on a 1/4" sacrificial fence would be the best option. Could also just use a sled.
Everytime she says “draws”, take a shot😂
New viewer so much more explanations then other woodworkers I’m learning for once! Keep it up!
Draws? Drawers. I know I’m nit picking but I can’t un notice it.
Cue the draw comments 😏
Wow first comment without fail haha @@3x3CustomTamar
Nice work
Tamar, your audience has spoken: We demand “drawer” merch!
As someone who is not hearing the second most popular pronunciation of drawer in the US for the first time from you, I still enjoy excitement that it elicits!
Cheers!
HAHAHAHAHA!
I can listen to say "drawers" all day long :)
I've done this joint numerous times as a suggestion from stumpy nubs. The issue I've found is you need good Baltic birch plywood or good American birch plywood. Standard plywood from the box stores has too many voids between the layers and soft wood on inner layers fail and split. Also wider drawer sides you need to apply downward force to make sure the depth is consistent.
i've been using the information in your videos since i started doing woodworking, mainly because we used the same DeWalt contractor table saw. One thing about this video you might want to look at is the reason for calling the method half-half-half.
Stumpy Nubs did a good video where he called it that because no matter what thickness material used, your setup always uses half that thickness for the fence, blade height and dado width.
It's an easier way to remember the process, since most plywood varies in thickness, as you know. Using 1/2" or 3/4" inch ply would use 1/4" or 3/8" setups, but with actual sized ply of 15/32" or 22/32", "half-half-half" gives you the best fit if you take half the actual width instead of knowing a fixed fraction .
Hope that's helpful, since you've been such a help to me! Aloha!
I like the unique design and functionality of your new bench! And the math stopwatch is hilarious! 🤣
Hahah I thought it was a nice touch. Thanks!
I feel like im watching an episode of This Old House every time she says drawers. Love Boston man.
Haha New Yorker here
I love when you build drawers because you and I pronounce drawers very differently. I didn't realize it until a prior video of yours, but I say drawers in a pretty southern accent (makes sense, being that I'm from the south) compared to your New England (?) inflection. Now when one of your drawer videos pops up I poke fun at myself by saying drawers over and over in my best John Wayne accent. :D Thanks for always bringing great woodworking and now sociolinguistic content!
A new record 10 second into video and we get a drawerr :) a great job as always!!!
When I use the 1/4", 1/4", 1/4" I move the fence at the end of the process to cut the rabbit for the sides of the front and back, that way the piece lays flat when going through the saw. I don't touch the saw depth and I do add a sacrificial fence to get the depth correct. Thanks for the great video.
That’s a good idea
Good point, that's how I do it as well. A lot easier, and for me, a lot faster that way.
The evolution of your shop is amazing. Congratulations on acquiring the new machinery. At one time I was a drawer-making machine using the quarter quarter quarter system. For shop furniture, I would suggest using half-inch bottoms. Your drawers were really large and would likely hold heavy items. Quarter-inch bottoms over a large span may be a little weak. I use half-inch Baltic Birch for the bottoms. It's stronger and you don't need to vary your fence setup one bit. Finally, I would apply glue to the grooves for the bottoms. This is all dimensionally stable plywood and gluing the bottoms in place will add to the structural integrity of the drawer.
Yeah. I totally should have used 1/2” for the bottoms. I was trying to save some money… ha
Tips from a custom cabinet shop - the issue with the bottom is pretty standard. We would flip the drawer over, push down on the drawer bottom and run staples at an angle through the bottom into the dado. It takes a few attempts to get the angle just right so it doesn't show through from the inside and / or blow through the side. Once you get the feel of it, you can do it blindfolded. After they are all stapled and secure, run some hot glue in the seam to reduce any rattling or noise.
I’ll have to try that
Tamar is amazing!!!!!
For cutting the tongue, good idea with the screw clamp, but you should have used the magnetic feather board you have next to you to push the board against the fence.
You are the real deal Mrs. Superb work bench
I loved the wood's eye view when you were ripping the sheets.
Awesome to hear!
Nice draws.
I’m just seeing this comment… way behind. Ha.
Wow. You’ve come a freakin long way. I just picked up woodworking again and last time I saw you you were using a jobsite dewalt with a built out outfeed. In a small basement or garage I believe. Man. That’s frickin awesome.
Just the second video of yous Iv'e watched but I am totally impressed and ready to watch some more. Got me stoked to get into my own shop and get to work.
Retired now from construction but have done some woodworking over the years. Once again awesome!!
As always, very pedagogical! Most RUclipsrs don’t put in the effort to actually explain things but you do and that’s just super!
Thanks for the explanation. It kept me from explaining that the equivalent of the half-half-half method would be the quarter-quarter-quarter-quarter-quarter-quarter method. You’re welcome.
24:20 I was waiting for this issue to pop up. If I had to guess, the baltic birch drawer bottoms come out to something like 6mm, while a 1/4" bit is going to be (just under but pretty close to) 6.35mm in diameter.
There's not really one perfect way to account for this in all situations. As we know, all lumber dimensions are nominal, whether they're metric or imperial. The only remedies I can think of would be either multiple passes with smaller bits, or a custom bit (perhaps an old 1/4" that has been sharpened down).
This has been really fun to watch. Thank you once again for all the ideas!
Definitely worth bookmarking for all the added info at the end. I really like the way you're always looking for a more efficient process.
Your explanation of how to measure for the drawers is great…and missing from my other go-to channels. Well done…THANK YOU!!
I always watch your videos completely through, even if I am familiar with the method you are teaching. You are such a credible instructor, that I might just pick up on a subtle nuance that will make be better at my craft. No need to 'apologize' for the simple math. That's one of the skills we all should strive to master.
You should listen to your friends all the time. Guess who is making shop cabinets and is now using the .25*.25*.25 method? This guy. Great vid.
Hey! Congrats on your new table saw! I haven't seen your channel in a while, so it might not actually be "new". But it's new to me as a viewer and I'm happy for you!
Haha it’s over a year old at this point. But thanks!! It’s great
I'll call it a draw between your method and mine on "draw" making !!!! 😀 Love your workbench !!!!
Thanks so much!!
OMG! I never say anything, but the DRAWs is getting to me. 😮 They are drawER or drawERS. 😂 Love the full length videos.
From a dedicated fan! 😊
Tamar: Cutting those tendons makes it look like you're trying to test that Saw Stop! Another idea (in addition to those below) would be to screw a flat piece of scrap to the inboard face of your wooden clamp. That would allow you to have two points of contact on the top of the tablesaw fence and there would be much less of a tendancy to wobble. I also notice that you're using a roller stand for outfeed. I also have to live with a table saw on a mobile base. Solved outfeed support by shimming up a piece of plywood to be level when resting on the rear fence support. Three toggle clamps on the bottom hold it firm and now my roller stand is only used to support the other end of this temporary table. Much easier that trying to exactly align a roller and works like a champ for cutting sheet goods.
Love your channel. And love hearing you say “Draws”. lol. Keep making these. ❤️❤️
Your math explanation made perfect sense and sounds more complicated than it actually is. To support the hand screw clamp you could screw a 6 in by 6 in piece of scrap to the bottom of one side that would ride on top of the fence to help keep the parts square when cutting them.
Thank you Tamar for talking to a camera and not feel weird. Then having to edit that afterwards. I was at 4:40 and saw the camera setup on the reflection and thought "damn it must be kinda weird to talk to an inanimate object that gives no feedbacks" 😆
It’s super strange. Especially when the ups guy drops off a package at my shop door 😂
Oh boy, bad decision to watch this before sleeping. All that math really ached my brain, whew!
Well, yes, I live on the other side of the world, and, yes, another awesome episode from your awesome channel, Tamar.
Keep it up, stay safe, God bless!
Haha sorry! Hope you had non math dreams 😂
Very elegant cut strategy. Some of the antique furniture I’ve seen had small wedges glued in to firm up the drawer bottoms in the groove.
I’ll have to do that sometime!
Locking Rabbet Joint...is the name I first learned for this type of joint, for which there seems to be many many subtle variations. Quarter-quarter-quarter seems to be one of them. I use this for all my drawers, although I use a slightly more complex version which hides those little holes that get left over. I think this joinery is especially great for drawers, not only is it easy and hides all the joinery along the visible sides, but most importantly the stress put on the front-to-side joinery of the drawer, when pulling open, is absorbed by the physical wood material of the tongue-groove joint, rather than the glue. I previously had really old dresser drawers whose box joinery pulled apart after many years of use. Hence, I chose this method for my very first wood working project, bedroom night stands, and have used it for all my drawers ever since!
Yeah! This is going to be my go to from now on!
You are my favourite RUclipsr woodworker
I love your videos
Thanks you so much from Canada
If you have access to an extra Screw clamp you can cut a small rabbet on one of the sides so it would fit into the top of the fence on the side
this makes it easier to hold tall thin panels like you are trying to do !
Another great video. One of my favorite channels because you share your own logic for problem solving and aren’t afraid to share when things don’t work out as intended.
I personally enjoyed following your discussion of your process in performing this 1/4-1/4-1/4 method the first time. Good video, Tamar. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome to hear!
I just loved hearing “drawers” the way you pronounce it. 🤩
😁😂
You are a great teacher. Math was logical and understandable, good job. Quarter method work great, just takes a little gettin used too. Thanks.
Once again, a great presentation. Lots of great accurate information, well thought out. Great workbench.
Glad you liked it!
If you're a fan of microjigs stuff already take a look at the fit finder. I took pretty much all of the trial and error out of setting these up. No more height gauges even. The only thing I use on occasion is a 1/4 or 3/8 inch setup block to check the dado width and make sure the stack doesn't need to be reshimmed....but even that is kind of moot with the inconsistent plywoods that are coming out.
I had a class at Woodcraft and was taught this method.
I built a desk for my wife and started with pocket holes did not turn out well due to undersized material.
Did the other 4 of the 8 drawers with the 1/4 Method these came out easier once I focused and gluing up was easy. These are noticeably stronger than the pocket holes. I had screw heads protruding which made it not so cool installing the drawer fronts.
This is my go-to method, especially after buying the Diablo Dado stack. It's so much easier once your test cuts come out the way you want it.
Hi Tamar, loved your explanation of the half method. On the drawer bottom I would have just used a router table with 3/16 bit and routed twice to the exact width for the plywood bottom. Yes it deviates from the other setup, but a tight fit on a drawer bottom that will get tons of use is a better method.
Love the handscrew clamp trick.
👍👍
Did your half half half but did it all on my router table just like the one in the background. A dado bit with 4 cutting knives like the shelix heads was used. Very very clean. Also did the bottom groove plywood router bit. Love your videos and your router thingy you sell. Getting old hard to recall some stuff but it is really handy.
I did this for the first time and I cut the back just shy of the drawer bottom. So I could assemble the drawer, then slide the 1/4” bottom in after the glue was dry. But I’m with you, I was so excited when it all came together. I thought, yeah only on tv right. But no, in my shop too! Good job. I enjoyed watching someone doing this for the first time, having the same thoughts I had while building them.
I work for a cabinet company and we make our own dovetailed drawer boxes with prefinished and grooved plywood stock, and we find it is inconsistent in thickness just enough to require undercutting our bottoms by 1-2 mm for a better fit up. We also staple through the bottoms at an angle in to the grooves since the grooves are always a bit wider than our bottom material thickness and the bottoms might not fit tight to the sides on the inside of the drawer box.
Good job on the draws
Just a thought next time you cut the rabbets for the drawers you can use a sacrificial fence with a miter gauge.
Your quarter inch stop block on the fence and your miter gauge or cross cut sled would have been safer to cut those rabbets. That way the setup of the fence and blade doesn't change. With the clamp kinda wobbly riding the top of the fence, I was worried you might get hurt from kickback cutting those long drawer sides vertically.
Love watching this bench come together! ❤
Amazing content as always! The “when’s school starting?” at the end was cherry on top 😂
We’ve all been there. Ha
Stunning work, Tamar! Really well done! 😃
I'm definitely going to try this joint!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Have fun with it!
Best explanation I have seen on the drawer method. Thank you, Bill
On to part 3. Awesome content as usual. I always learn something
Glad to hear it!
I couldn’t care less how you say one word or the next but i do appreciate the step by step explanations. Even though the math had my head spinning at times. Nice work!
When I worked in a cabinet shop we always used hot glue to glue the drawer bottoms just like you did here.
This was a great video with loads of good information. Please don't feel that you need to apologize for using middle school math, just as you wouldn't apologize for using woodworking vocabulary. It simply answers the question, "When am I ever going to use this stuff?" Very well done!
I try to remove math from my work as much as possible. So I’m more apologizing to myself 😂
Love the 1/4" 1/4" 1/4"!
Many years of use out of that bench.❤🎉
I used that joint to make a case for my son's microscope out of baltic birch. Yep, straightforward to do and very strong. Good choice for drawers.
That was a great video, Tamar.
I think I get what you were saying, but I will have to watch it again 🙂.
Pete Australia 🇦🇺
Haha glad you liked it! Hopefully you’ll still like it the second time 😂
I like that method. I am in the final planning stage for my work bench. This method is very appealing.
It was really quick! If I wasn’t making this video it would have been done quicker then drilling pocket holes
Looks great Tamar, and a pocket full of snacks for good measure 😄🍫
Formula is easier if (like the pocket holes) you place the sides and slides in the opening and measure the distance remaining. Then you simply add back two quarters (or two half’s) for the rabbit. Easy peasy. 😊
Loving this build and I learned a lot about a different style of joinery. You are a natural teacher. I am eagerly anticipating part 3!
Awesome! Thank you! Posted it this morning!