Just a friendly reminder that working with your daughter in the shop is a good opportunity to teach about many things but should also include hazards of chemicals and flying parts. I would encourage you to make her wear ANSI Z.87 rated safety glasses, and understand what chemicals are inert versus ones that might do harm. At least the safety glasses--that press can make things go flying.
7:22 Wheel bearing grease seal installed backwards. These are solid seals (no recess on one side vs other) and the small seal should go to the outside nearest the spindle. Check out Pelicans, "Porsche 911 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement" tutorial and see it is indeed backwards. That is not good. This is the second video I have seen installed upside down. Surprised nobody caught it, it is pretty clear to see on other photos/videos that this is backwards.
I'm amazed at how many vids I've watched that depict no finger Harry's . If the guard on your angle grinder gets in the way don't throw it away! cut it down and put it back on .
Is that per Porsche spec to use moly for wheel bearings? It´s meant for lower speed applications such as CV joints & I´ve heard it can cause bearing skidding in higher bearing speed applications...
Question - you media blasted the aluminum hubs and then installed them without any surface protection (chemical surface oxidizing, painting of powder coating) - is this because of the haste of the fix and planned for later or should it stay like this? Mine came from a real rust bucket of a Porsche 912 and the aluminum hubs have some deep surface rust - after media blasting, the surface in those areas is still very rough and probably prone to further (accelerated) oxidation ?
kavs911 What calipers did you use to convert your front brakes from solid discs to vented discs? I am looking for some front calipers that are wide enough for vented discs.
You should be able to re-use the existing calipers, if you buy the adapter plates (flat plates that are installed between the two caliper halves - just needs longer bolts).
Probably a ready-to-buy pipe connection piece (hardware store, to go from one diameter to another) and then grinding the hex protruding part on the two endings. Look for cast-iron pipe transitions.
You have to heat the hub and freeze the races, otherwise you’ll destroy the hubs. If races are cocked you will not be able to get proper bearing adjustment.
@@kavs911 yeah it works theres nothing wrong with doing it that way (apart from the overly complicated stack of things to level it out that can spring out at warpspeed if something binds up) easiest and quickest way (and the way i was taught) is simply put a larger nut or sleeve over the threads against the hub itself, then run a wheel nut onto it with a rattle gun, you can just watch it sink into its hole from the other side and then done. Wont harm the threads at all or the hub itself; ive done it a thousand times and you will do 5 studs in less than 2 mins instead of hours per hub Hope that helps. Also i couldnt believe the brake shoe spring would interfere with the tensioner like that so i looked it up. And you are right, turns out instead of designing a ratcheting mechanism to stop the adjuster backing itself off they just use the spring as a retainer. Cheap and efficient i guess, just so wierd!
Not the Greatest engine removal ! ! I can remove mine in less than 1/2 hour with gearbox attached . I find 2 skate boards under each heat exchanger is the easiest way to move engine / gearbox around .
Авто/Мото
Love your films! Totally awesome and very cathartic. Greetings from another Geordie with a 911 obsession. 🙌
Who would give this video a thumbs down? I love watching these! They are great!!!!
Always a pleasure to watch your work. Good for you to involve those enthusiastic helpers.
nice work! love that you have a helper now too!
Cheers Benny! Yep she's the best!
Congratulations! You have come far in to this project and it has turned you in to a pro mechanic.
I wouldn't go that far Henry!
I mean it seriously.
Damn, you're good at this! I think I'm good at fixing stuff, then I break it, and pay twice to have it fixed properly. Nice work!
I do most things twice! Don't be fooled!
Love this guys work
Thanks!
Another great video, kav. Following you both here and on Pelican!
Thanks Michel! I need to update my Pelican thread!
Thanks Michel!
Your daughter is lucky to be working with her dad on a special car. I'm sure she'll turn into a car nut when she's older.
Let’s hope
That’s what i call dedication and professionality!! Awesome job 👏🏻👏🏻
Just a friendly reminder that working with your daughter in the shop is a good opportunity to teach about many things but should also include hazards of chemicals and flying parts. I would encourage you to make her wear ANSI Z.87 rated safety glasses, and understand what chemicals are inert versus ones that might do harm. At least the safety glasses--that press can make things go flying.
Agree!
7:22 Wheel bearing grease seal installed backwards. These are solid seals (no recess on one side vs other) and the small seal should go to the outside nearest the spindle. Check out Pelicans, "Porsche 911 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement" tutorial and see it is indeed backwards. That is not good. This is the second video I have seen installed upside down. Surprised nobody caught it, it is pretty clear to see on other photos/videos that this is backwards.
What gold paint did you use on those backing plates? They look great IMO.
영상너무 잘 보고 있습니다. 계속해서 영상 올려 주시면 좋겠어요
Thanks Seung-min! 예, 우리가 말하는 동안 새로운 비디오를 편집하고 있으며 훨씬 더 재미있는 업데이트가 있습니다!
Love your videos Kav, thank you. Did you apply any kind of finish on the hubs after sandblasting?
Thanks Andrew! No just left them in their raw state.
I'm amazed at how many vids I've watched that depict no finger Harry's . If the guard on your angle grinder gets in the way don't throw it away! cut it down and put it back on .
Oh it's back on! Good point Paul!
Is that per Porsche spec to use moly for wheel bearings? It´s meant for lower speed applications such as CV joints & I´ve heard it can cause bearing skidding in higher bearing speed applications...
I'll look into that, thanks.
Question - you media blasted the aluminum hubs and then installed them without any surface protection (chemical surface oxidizing, painting of powder coating) - is this because of the haste of the fix and planned for later or should it stay like this? Mine came from a real rust bucket of a Porsche 912 and the aluminum hubs have some deep surface rust - after media blasting, the surface in those areas is still very rough and probably prone to further (accelerated) oxidation ?
I’m not sure what the original finish on the hubs was? Will look into that!
kavs911 What calipers did you use to convert your front brakes from solid discs to vented discs? I am looking for some front calipers that are wide enough for vented discs.
You should be able to re-use the existing calipers, if you buy the adapter plates (flat plates that are installed between the two caliper halves - just needs longer bolts).
Yes the calipers are the same with just a spacer
The vinegar also removes the zinc. Those bolts will flash rust . like immediately. Sorry.
Yes I will deal with it sooner rather that later! Thanks!
how did you make the tool to press the races back in?
Probably a ready-to-buy pipe connection piece (hardware store, to go from one diameter to another) and then grinding the hex protruding part on the two endings. Look for cast-iron pipe transitions.
Yup
You have to heat the hub and freeze the races, otherwise you’ll destroy the hubs. If races are cocked you will not be able to get proper bearing adjustment.
I did freeze the races.
I overtightened the bearings on my 85 MB when I changed them and they eventually fried. I'll never do that again.
Failed, buddy! Get those hubs regreased. CORRECTLY!
I will look into that.
Duncan Howarth, how exactly did he fail, buddy?
An adjustable spanner, good grief,get a socket man.
Hahaha!
😂😅😂😅😂
Check out a product called Press Lube . It will make your life easier.
I will thanks!
@@kavs911 or "Press Fit Lube" -sunnen is a manufacturer Ive used. If you use it once, youll never press fit parts without it again. Its far out man.
putting in wheel studs with a hydraulic press.......
SMH
All the gear; no idea
I think that's ok? Learning as I go here!
@@kavs911 yeah it works theres nothing wrong with doing it that way (apart from the overly complicated stack of things to level it out that can spring out at warpspeed if something binds up)
easiest and quickest way (and the way i was taught) is simply put a larger nut or sleeve over the threads against the hub itself, then run a wheel nut onto it with a rattle gun, you can just watch it sink into its hole from the other side and then done.
Wont harm the threads at all or the hub itself; ive done it a thousand times and you will do 5 studs in less than 2 mins instead of hours per hub
Hope that helps.
Also i couldnt believe the brake shoe spring would interfere with the tensioner like that so i looked it up. And you are right, turns out instead of designing a ratcheting mechanism to stop the adjuster backing itself off they just use the spring as a retainer. Cheap and efficient i guess, just so wierd!
Not the Greatest engine removal ! ! I can remove mine in less than 1/2 hour with gearbox attached . I find 2 skate boards under each heat exchanger is the easiest way to move engine / gearbox around .
First time for everything! Yes I can get it out pretty quick now!