How to install a stud ceiling
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- This shows to install a wooden stud ceiling underneath an existing ceiling, you can see some before and after pictures here- www.ultimatehan...
Because we were short on 3*2 timber and it was a one hour journey to get some more we spaced out the joists at 600mm centres instead of the normal 400mm centres and then used a couple of lengths of 3*2 timber placed above the stud partition to strengthen it.
The ceiling was plaster boarded using half inch thick tapered edge plasterboard, then it was plaster boarded again using fire retardant plasterboard, unfortunately this could not be filmed as the room was too small for the plasterboard and the camera.
Thanks, I am about to fit a false ceiling in my Bathroom and your video has answered all of my questions. A great help.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the comment
Hi.I am refurbing my basement and was thinking of how to suspend a ceiling. Your video has inspired me. I wasn't sure about the timber size etc. I shall be putting soundproofing above it as well. Thank you so much, this will save me a lot of money so I can upgrade my drill.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Im going to be building a stud to attach sound proofing.
Great video - very nice and simple.
Just about to start a new project, this is very helpful!
Your video on bathroom tanking was spot on. Cheers 👍
I’m glad you find the videos useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
this was very helpful as I have to install a stud ceiling under a lath ceiling in a 1890'a home. thank you for the video.
I'm glad the video helps ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Same here 1890 house. Not fun knocking out old lath & plaster. Lowering a bit so I hide electrical and install recessed lighting.
I am thinking of doing the same. How much clearance are you giving the recessed lighting from plaster? I want to maximize the height
This is exactly what I needed to learn, I've got my kitchen ceiling to drop 100mm then plasterboard, then add spots or ceiling rose.
Good video.
When I was an apprentice back in the 1960's we were never allowed to fix into the end grain of timber and you certainly did not risk the wrath of the foreman in those days. We always had to skew fix.
thanks for video, I used your advice to cover up horrible straw insulation in my garage and enabled me to install 2 flourescent lights. Brightened up my garage and made servicing my bike a whole lot easier.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much this helped me save so much money hiring a handyman. Keep up the good work.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Outstanding tips as per usual. I'm a DIY disaster but the more I learn from you the better I'm becoming. :)
That was the best produced, best explained and best visuals of anything Ive seen on the web. Thank you, Im about to fix the same type of ceiling in a small space off a bedroom (renovating a French village house) and now feel I can set about it. Q when you angle screw (skew screw?) the studs to the wall plate does the pressure not move the stud?? Subscribed.
No, providing the stud is a tight fit.
If a nail gun is being used, that will move the stud, so I always use a clamp at the other side of where I’m skew nailing, to prevent it from being moved 👍
Clamp, brilliant. Thanks. @@ultimatehandyman
07:00 Very good tip and a very good video!
In Denmark we call that a "Stum lærling", roughly translates into "Silent apprentice".
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is exactly the solution for a problem I have. Thank you!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Been trying to find a video to help me with this for so long that isnt so confusing. Thank you and good work 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I managed to complete the job in the cellar. Once again your advice has been invaluable. Ended up with 7 x 5w LED's which provide adequate lighting. Thanks again!!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Just wanted to say thank you for the video - am refurbishing my bedroom and the ceiling was falling through and had planned to do this was just unsure on a few of the leveling techniques and ways of strengthening it, going to go and buy my self a laser level and get right to it!
You are welcome
Big job on with quite a large kitchen ceiling to lower.... seen your video more than I've seen Terminator lol! Hopefully I can do a decent job as wood hates me. Thanks for the advice up front matey
You are welcome.
Good luck with the job ;-)
i do a lot of work...but everytime i see your videos i pick up new tips. your ROCK :-)
Absolutely brilliant.
Thanks 👍
Hi, love your video.I have a room 20x22ft can this be done if i join the pcs.I was thinking to run one joined pcs down the middle and then the others off that one.i only need to hang sheetrock and a couple leds in my livingroom
I've done a similar sized room before, as long as you get some supports (stringers) near the centre, it should be fine 👍
Just wondering. Could you use joust hangers instead of skew screwing into the wall plates. This was my first option. My second option is a metal stud ceiling. Any idea which is cheaper or easier?
You could use joist hangers, but that makes the job more expensive. I know absolutely nothing about metal stud ceilings, as I always use wood 👍
OMg this is exactly the video that i was needing, thanks very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video mate.. I'm building a room within a shed with a lower ceiling that's gonna be 8ft high.. The room will be 16ft x 16ft..what size of timber wud u recommend for ceiling joists.. Wud 2x8 be OK
Not sure, I've never built anything like that before, but 8"x2" sounds like it should do the job
Overall great job. Personally I would use masonry screws to fix wall plate, quicker and easier. But when you use wall plugs you'll get stronger fixing when using self tapping screws not wood screws with cutting point. You want plug to be forced to spread when wood screws tend to cut into plug reducing presure and therefore creating weaker connection. If time allows consider creating notched connection betwen joists and wall plate so you dont have to rely only on screws and friction holding it up
One of the best videos for this job.
Would this be suitable on a bedroom ceiling 15ft x 15ft n would I have to increase joist sizes/ C24 timber ?
3*2 will be fine, I have done similar sized rooms in the past, you can always add a few more stringers for additional support.
Thanks for the comment
Thx for posting, great tips and fast job too.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment
Hi
My room ceiling is 4.75m x 4.65m.
The timber available comes in 3m lengths. Is this not possible for larger rooms? Or is there an alternative way without going in to the beams. I have already done a smaller room. Great video, easy to follow instructions.
I've done larger rooms like that, but I had to join the timber together.
I normally butt the two pieces together then, cut a piece about a foot long and then use that to brace the two pieces together, using about ten 3.5" long woodscrews. I use these for the perimeter, but for the other lengths I use two pieces 12" long, one on each side two pieces that I'm joining together.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much. Been looking for a video like this for weeks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can I do this in my basement?? It had a drop ceiling I took down and wanna do dry wall . Can I use this method with 2/4 into 2/4???
Thanks for the nice job...
I wonder if I can use the same method in a bigger hall (55 ft x 22 ft) , currently we have a 17 ft heigh ceiling and want to convert to 10 ft only... and will install a drywall boards to the ceiling frame.
Appreciate your feedback.... thanks
I'm afraid you might need a structural engineer to offer a solution for a large area like that!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good video thanks. I'm wanting to put up PVC paneling with some down lighters, is the method of the stud the same for this? Spacings etc.
If there is a ceiling up already you can just batten it out-
How to batten a ceiling
Afternoon mate, Silly question but it the length of the room it 4m squared do you need to have the beams braced in the middle of the ceiling also?
I was excited seeing this because it's how i renovated my 30's house, only the way it was done that i copied was better than this, on the bottom of that spar on the wall you need to attach a lathe, then you cut out the lathe size of the other spar and sit it on it, much more secure and doesn't need to be so tight
Thanks for the comment
Fixing into the end grain was considered a weaker joint than skew fixing into the cross grain due to the structure of timber.
I was shown at the time where fixing into the end grain had failed, it was probably fine at the time of fixing but subsequently failed.
However, there are different fixing these days and we did not have power tools in the 60's so we used nails, screws might not be as bad.
Very nice thanks for the knowledge
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm looking to lower the ceiling in my living room. They are very high ceilings and the rooms cost a fortune to heat. It is quite a large room so would use 400mm spaces between studs as you recommend. Would I also be able to install some insulation above the stud ceiling to keep the warmth in? Any more tips? Many thanks.
Thanks for this video. We are installing a stud ceiling in between the kitchen and a bathroom above. What would you recommend for soundproofing/insulation? Thanks
I'm no expert on soundproofing and to do it properly it is very expensive.
I don't normally bother with insulation in a kitchen ceiling but if you want to I guess it will help with sound insulation too. I'd look at loft insulation as it is normally inexpensive.
You can get special soundproof plasterboard but it is expensive.
The last time I installed a kitchen ceiling I installed the stud work as per this video, then used normal 1/2 inch think plasterboard and then over boarded that with fire resistant plasterboard, which you may need to do to meet fire regulations- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/plastering/overboard-ceiling
Thanks for the prompt reply. I in Switzerland and that seems to be the approach generally used here. Thanks
I was thinking of doing something like this in a duplex I purchased. I have 10 foot ceilings, but the house is old and the noise transfer is ridiculous. I figured adding a second ceiling would make it easier to put some overhead lighting in and add some sound proof batting. The rooms I have are much larger though and I would worry about the 2x4's flexing using your method of framing to the wall. I was thinking of screwing the 2x4's directly through the plaster ceiling into the joists above going in the perpendicular direction? The joists now go east to west which make getting power from a switch difficult, so my overall plan was to put up a second set of "joists" using 2x4s, going north to south. Run the power through these to the switch I will put in near the door. throw in maybe 4 inches of dense polyester, and then possibly use "hat channels" before I put the dry wall up? Your method actually looks easier as I won't need to find the joists but again I am worried abou tthe 2x4's flexing in rooms this size. Let me know what you think, and thanks!
I think your original idea is probably best, although for noise deadening it might be more beneficial to install a stud ceiling with an air gap as this would probably be the best option to help prevent sound transfer.
Perhaps another option would be to install a stud ceiling but put supports in from the original ceiling joists to give the stud ceiling some support ?
Finding ceiling joists is normally very easy as you just need a magnet to locate the screw heads that hold the drywall to the joists, like this- ruclips.net/video/H5U0sLKyJJw/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for getting back to me but I am a little confused about part of your reply. You suggest doing an air gap. do you mean simply NOT putting any insulation in there for sound deadening? I am not sure how that would help with stopping noise from talking? Your second suggestion says build stud ceiling but use supports from original ceiling, that is what I thought my plan was? I suspect my confusion is just based on my inexperience and not understanding the lingo. I don't mean to be obtuse, and your help is appreciated!
Maybe I should ask my question a different way. How would you do the stud ceiling like the one in your video, but for a much larger room? If it was on the first floor of a multi story family unit would you just use insulation to help with sound proofing, and hat channels to separate drywall from joists? This is where I've been getting some of my ideas, basically "step 2" but with the new ceiling instead of tearing up old one. www.diynetwork.com/how-to/rooms-and-spaces/walls-and-ceilings/soundproofing-a-ceiling
By an air gap I mean installing another ceiling below, using the method in this video BUT having insulation either on top of the new ceiling or below the original ceiling so that the two ceilings have nothing toughing each other. Insulation for heat is much different to sound insulation and can be very expensive to do it correctly. I know a few people that live in terraced houses and they have asked me how to soundproof it so that they cannot hear their noisy neighbours, I normally recommend that they move house as soundproofing a property is very expensive. Sounds can travel through connecting timbers etc. which is why I recommended an air gap, however if you install a false ceiling like in this video but have a few timber braces from the new ceiling to the old ceiling I am sure it will not make much difference (obviously with the insulation as well)
For a larger room I would do it exactly the same way but I'd incorporate some braces from the existing structure (I'm not sure if braces is the correct term, I was told that in lofts they are called stringers but after searching Google nothing showed up for stringers), basically it is pieces of 3X2 timber or 4X2 timber that connects both of the ceilings together to prevent the new ceiling from sagging. The hat channels would probably help, although I have never used them before. You can get sound blocking plasterboard, but I do not know how effective it is.
Thanks for the video. Was it necessary to drill pilot holes into the studs beforehand, so as not to spit the wood when drilling?
It's not always necessary if you use good quality wood screws, but the joint does tend to pull tighter if pilot holes are drilled.
I found it very useful.
Glad to hear that!
👍
what is the name of what you just did towards the end? When you added the 1x3 inbetween?
What time in the video?
hi, i too would like to know why you were not allowed to fix into end grain?
i find on stud work, that makes for a much stronger joint, so i'm a bit confused why you weren't allowed to use them.
Excellent video, and your comment replies are so hellpful! I wonder if you can help me: I have a 6mx6m ceiling that needs a stud ceiling! The roof timbers are currently exposed and can be used for extra support; but what is the best method for connecting the roof timbers and the ceiling? will I just be able to find certain spots that allow me to connect the two? I'm imagining using noggins the roof timbers in strategic positions to allow me to use "braces" or "stringers".... Any chance you have any better ideas for me?
Can I use steel cords???
You could use steel cords, but they might be difficult to connect. Normally I will just use some off cuts of timber that I'm using for the stud ceiling and ensure that good screws are used to connect the old ceiling to the new ceiling. A few years back a bedroom ceiling was sagging really badly as it was built with thin joists, so I made holes in the old ceiling and put timber braces up and connected them to the roof timbers.
Thanks very much for the reply. So how did you connect them? Just a vertical brace from rafters to joists with 2 screws in each end? I'm thinking my rafters and joists won't line up, so I can just use noggins on the rafters... Which will use a lot of screws but should save time!
Great video, great tips. Does anyone know what size drywall screws to use when fixing the 12.5mm plasterboard on to the timber? I've created a false ceiling too.
I'd go for between 32mm and 40mm long.
ruclips.net/video/WneqUwecT5s/видео.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
and what holds the weight in the centre over that distance between wall to wall?. you've only fixed in on either side brickwork!! what holds and stops it sagging in middle across the whole lenght ?
All the studs and noggins are cut tight and screwed into position, but I also put a length of 3”X2” from one end to the other end, which sat above the wall studs, all other studs were then screwed into that using 4” wood screws. For larger ceilings, you can insert stringers from the existing ceiling 👍
The studding timbers are an interference fit. In your opinion what would happen if fresh dry timbers were used then expanded through moisture laden air, roof water leak, pipework leak etc? Is there a chance walls could be pushed apart and cracks form in brickwork. Do you at least recommend storing the timbers in the room to be studded for a few days first? I like your videos, thankyou
Im thinking of doing this into an underground room (Home Cinema project) and this video has helped a lot, i see in your video that you used 2x4 beams for the main lengths at 600mm centres... i have a room which is 4.6 x 2.4 and have found a place with good deals on timber 2400 x 63 x 38mm, would this be suitable for this type of job, or would you recommend something else (i was thinking of poss doing 300mm centres, little more, but still cheaper than buying the thicker beams)
I used 3" * 2" timber for this job as the room was only small. The timber you can get at a good price is not far off that size so it should be fine, especially if you place the studs at 300mm centres.
can i ask your advise on finishing too, what i really wanna do is create something that looks like this (1.bp.blogspot.com/-a39HGF3cyC8/UmjgH7Z78yI/AAAAAAAANPY/1GomR4CJPuA/s1600/false-ceiling-pop-design-LED-lghiting-2014.jpg) without the centre part, just the outter dropped section with led strip lights... i can build the ceiling structure, but dont have a clue how to finish it, been thinking platerboard, with tapered edge, just painted, but cant see it looking any good ! any ideas ?
Aaron Smith
Have a look at this made from MDF www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/coffered-ceiling-wainscoting-installation-t76546.html
If you use plasterboard it will need plastering to make it look good, so I'd go for MDF as it is much easier to finish.
Hi there, I’m diying this for the 1st time however the width of my ceiling is wider than cls timber available, is it ok to join 2 pcs in the middle?
You can, but it’s a lot more work and time consuming to do it right. I would suggest looking elsewhere for the timber. Travis Perkins in the UK sell 3*2 in 4.8 metre lengths!
Will this also help toward soundproofing? Like if I stuffed the empty space with whool or an acoustic proof material?
It might help, but to be perfectly honest if you have to do soundproofing properly, it is very expensive. You can, of course, reduce a lot of sound by doing this and adding some soundproofing material, but don't expect miracles.
In the past people have asked me how to soundproof their flat due to noisy neighbours- they think I'm joking when I tell them that it will be easier and less expensive to move 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good job!!! that's kind idea I was looking .for thanks
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Iam doing a larger room, the only thing is I am struggling to find timber that is long enough to go all the way across the celling. Does it have to be one piece, or can you join them end to end
?
You can join them end to end, I have had to do that a few times.
I normally use two off cuts of the timber that I'm using, preferably about two feet long and brace the joint on each side using the two off cuts. I normally glue and screw them together to make the strongest joint possible (without using bolts).
Hi Looks great, would you use insulated board for the ceiling ?? Thanks
Not normally, but if you wanted it to be insulated you could use insulated plasterboard. I have over-boarded with insulated plasterboard in the past in attic rooms. This false ceiling was in a kitchen, so I double boarded it, firstly with regular plasterboard, then with fire rated plasterboard- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/plastering/overboard-ceiling
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much for this video!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the comment
You should be using pressure treated lumber when attaching directly to concrete because the moisture in the concrete will penetrate the wood and rot it over time.
These timbers are attached to bricks, not concrete. The wall is internal, the timber will never rot in 200 years 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Really enjoy your informative videos.
What an advance cordless tools provide. What voltage do your cordless hand tool use?
Looking forward to your next video!
Roy
Need to install a stud ceiling in a small cellar room (2m x 4.8m) for the purpose of putting up pvcu cladding. The ceiling is only 2.2m high so dont want to lose much height. Would 2x2 timber be sufficient and also can i put the timber flush against the ceiling if i was to add 3 led lights??? not sure how much gap is required from a safety point. Cheers.
This should help-
How to batten a ceiling
Bathroom ceiling cladding
LED lights should not be a problem as they run cool, unless there is a possibility of someone replacing one of the LED lamps with an Halogen lamp.
*****
Legend!! Thank you.
atif qureshi
You are welcome ;-)
Can you recommend how many lights and wattage given the size of the room? Cheers.
atif qureshi
It depends as there are so many variables in LED's. I'd probably go for 4 downlighters, the higher the wattage the better. I think the last ones I installed were 8w
thanks for the awesome video brother helped me out tremendously. will definitely subscribe
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
If the corners aren't square due to walls being plastered numerous times and have forced the walls in/out and shorter at 1 end and longer on the other....where would you start in measuring for your first beam?
I normally start at the widest point.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks! 😁
Do the studs refer to the beams in the ceiling? I read about a low studded ceiling in a book and not sure exactly what a room like that would look like
You can put the new studs wherever you want really, but it best to position them so that the plasterboard fits, without having to cut it etc.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment
Hi there, great video - I'm wanting to have a false ceiling in my kitchen with led/halogen downlights- is this method suitable? I'm worried about the weight in the centre of the room - also, how difficult is it to attach the plaster board?
David Shaw Yes, this method should be suitable. Even if the kitchen is large you can attach stringers from the existing joists to take some of the weight of the stud ceiling. The plasterboard is best installed with two people as it's very hard work for one person. This might help- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/plastering/plasterboard-ceiling
***** Great, thanks for your advice
Where does the hole in original ceiling go? To the attic? I see to many other issues with the old ceiling, to just be covering up. Whats wrong with a higher ceiling, and wouldn't it be cheaper in the long run to repair the existing ceiling?
Above this kitchen is a bathroom.
It would be cheaper to repair the existing ceiling, but ceilings in older properties have high ceilings, which makes the properties difficult to heat because the heat rises. The old ceiling is also lath and plaster which makes it difficult to repair.
This ceiling was installed so that the ducting for the extractor could be placed in the void and vented outside.
Thanks for the comment
Hi. I am fitting a false ceiling in a kitchen too. The existing ceiling is approx 13’ high and is of a flame resistant board. I’m fitting at a height of 2.4m. Should this be lined with a flame resistant board too?
Yes, it will need to be fire resistant board too.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman ok, thanks. Could I just double skin with regular plasterboard instead?
@ javier zapata Calvo
Yes, I would do on a room that size.
Awesome! Thanks for this video... Very informative!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks really well done video so easy to follow, I’m definitely going to do my ceiling this weekend 😀🍻
Best of luck with it
Great video. I want to install a ceiling lke this in my bedroom to hide the hiddeous artex. One of the walls is a false one. How would i strenthen it on that side?
I'm assuming the false wall is a stud wall?
If so you can fix to it by finding the studs, like this- ruclips.net/video/glzwY76O0d8/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks. That is what I meant lol
Great video thanks for the help
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Would this method be suitable for a garage/basement? Or should I look at fitting MF ceiling? Cheers.
Metal or wooden studs? I'm working in a basement so would prefer to use metal - any thoughts?
So you plaster boarded it twice ? Wouldn't that be too much weight ? I'm looking into doing what you have shown in this video because of impact noise from the flat above me would it make much difference to impact noise ?
It's incredibly difficult to reduce noise from neighbours, to do it properly it costs thousands of pounds. The stud ceiling is stud ceiling is strong when constructed correctly, I could hang from it without it moving. You can get acoustic plasterboard but I have never used it before.
*****
Thanks for the reply just one more question my room is 12foot by 10 foot if i was to do what you did in the video what joist size would i need ?
antony hill
I'd just use 3 inch by two inch timber, as long as it is fixed properly it will be fine. Sorry for the late reply, I have only just seen this comment !
if your worried about the weight stick some hangers down off existing celing spread them along the joists will go no were
Hello mate,im in the same situation as you was and the impact noise above my flat is very bad due to footsteps.I was wondering if you ended up doing this,if so how is it?Im not expecting complete noise reduction ofcourse.
Thanks
Billy
is this suitable for a heavier blue acoustic board?
I need to create a false ceiling as i have issues with a neighbour. We have no insulation whatsoever between rooms.
Yes, as long as it's installed correctly.
The false ceiling in this video was boarded with 1/2 inch plasterboard, then over boarded with 1/2 inch fire resistant plasterboard.
Good. Thanks.
what plasterboard would you use in a bathroom with concrete ceilings above?
I'd use moisture resistant plasterboard, it is widely available now.
Thanks for the comment
Would this method of using wood be okay in a bathroom? Due to the amount of steam? Cheers
Yes it will be fine, I installed a stud ceiling like this in my old house 18 years ago and it is still fine, the studs were of course used to fix up plasterboard, which was then Artexed over.
Thanks for the comment
When u skew screwed the studs did u go into the wall through timber of just through timber
Just through the timber, there is no need to go into the wall.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman thanks. The frame is fixed up but the walls are uneven leaving space between timber n wall. How do you solve this? Packing plywood or shims
???
@@FM-js6cq You can use either, just pack it out, then screw it up tight.
Sorry for the late reply, there seems to be a problem with RUclips comments AGAIN
@@ultimatehandyman thanks pal. I'm at noggin stage but do u cut yo length or oversized as studs are bending because if tight fitting, n some are coming loose?
Great video! How do I convince my engineer husband that we should do this to our concrete ceilings so we can have a nice looking ceiling??
I'm sure if you make him a nice meal and get him some beer, he will be persuaded.
If not try more beer ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Got job too. And 2x4s are 7.00 to 9.00 bucks. 2x3 is 3.50 yet
Thanks for the comment 👍
I know this video is old but how do you join the two pieces to make a continuous length above the joists ?
I normally cut a piece about a foot long and then use that to brace the two pieces together, using about ten 3.5" long woodscrews 👍
Do it however you want but remember to have fun and not be a kill joist
I love your videos so much :-)
What brand of screw and plug? I can only find plastic plugs
Any plastic wall plug will do, and any wood screw long enough.
Wall plugs- fave.co/37lmeTJ
Guide here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/fasteners-fixings/wall-plugs
Thanks for the comment 👍
hi dude i like your videos i have got some good tips. i would like to say that you should never use a metal hammer with a wood chisel at least that is what i was told in wood shop good jod
That is correct, a joiner will never abuse a wood chisel like I do LOL. I was once stood on the roof rack of my van removing a shop sign for my sister and the only thing I had to reach was a wood chisel and hammer, it sheared the M10 bolts easily ;-) Don't tell any Joiners though as they go nuts ;-)
Thanks for the comment
how did you fix the laser to the wall
Out of curiosity, why do you add noggins? Wouldn’t think you would need them in a ceiling.
It strengthens the whole thing up and gives you something else to screw to.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks for the videos! It’s good to see things done in real life situations. Much better than the videos filmed on sets with perfect set ups.
Could I do this to cover asbestos ceilings?
Not sure about that, it might be best to check with your local council.
Thanks for this dude you the man
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Very good 👍 and useful
Thanks for the comment
Hi! Just asking what timber did you use? Im trying to do my 3rd floor
I just used rough sawn 3*2 , but on larger ceilings you can use 4*2
Thanks for the comment
What name is this machine that makes linear red lines on the wall?
It's a laser level- ruclips.net/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
Laser light
is it pine timber ?
Yes, it is ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Wood isn't particularly strong in that direction, so you risk splitting the fibres. However, screw technology has advanced greatly in the past few decades and although I wouldn't do so myself under many situations, at the end of the day with this it's ultimately only supporting itself plus the plasterboard and plaster, both of which add stiffness and spread the load.
is it possible to attach a stud ceiling to stud walls?
Yes, just find the studs using a magnet and fix the ceiling studs to the wall studs-
ruclips.net/video/H5U0sLKyJJw/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman Great thanks! I couldn't find any answers online. I was worried I'd have to rip all the walls down!
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks, thing I will stick to 3x2 to be on the safe side :-), keep up loading the vids, there great
Interesting video- thanks !
what happens if your studs are not long enough to go the length of the room?
You either get longer studs or partition the area up, perhaps by joining two lengths of timber together.
I thought about joining two studs together. My room is 5meters wide so I would need 5 meter studs and I can't get that length. Anyway, with 5m span wouldn't it be better to get some support from the ceiling? I am building a recording studio and need to have the cavity between the false ceiling and concrete ceiling filled with attic insulation so it doesn't need to support a lot of weight but it needs to be firm.
If you join two studs together to make one long one and install it down the centre of the ceiling, you can then use normal length studs running the opposite way. For such a large span though I would put some supports in to the existing ceiling.
The opposite way is 12 meters so that is even longer :) thanks for the vid and for your replies
I take it this is not in a domestic property?
another great video, thanks
nice tips there mate ..thnx
What type of level is that
Its a Makita laser level- ruclips.net/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
but i like the laser trix maybe they dont use metal stud in swithland...
very helpful!
Thanks for the comment
Plan to do this on our ceiling! ;)