The little bookshelves that could. (Also with on-wall measurements)
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
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Man, I'm SOOOO thrilled to see you measure this. After watching a lot of reviews I am very close to selecting the Arendal 1723's as an audiophile/home theater setup but was a bit hesitant about a new brand. But they seem to be very well reviewed everywhere.
Given their size and how well they acoustically measure, they might be a great "steal" for those music lovers on a budget. They are also good for those of us who are "weight restricted." I'm always on the look-out for, well, "Gimp Audio." This looks like a total winner. Thank you!
“Gimp Audio”. For a split-second I thought to myself “great, another brand I haven’t heard of”. 😂😂😂
I took the liberty to compare this with BBC 3/5a and in terms of tonality they behave almost the same. The only exception is that the 5/3a has a slight boost at the 160hz region adding some presence to the bass.
@@kevincheong1516 i compared mine 1961 to the spendor sa1, its pretty close, less bass.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Now, imagine the gimp from pulp fiction fondling your ears.
As long as your sub isn't a gimp too
Great work - keep it up! You are definitely one of the few reviewers I really trust.
The two A in Arendal are looong, but your very close Erin. 👍👍
Cheers,, 🍻😎🤘
Awesome review, thanks!
Looks very impressive for something so small. I’ve read Dan Roemer from Perlisten also designs for Arendal…if true then It’s not all that surprising they perform so well.
I just added the 1961 Monitors for my front wides in my 1723S system. Their small size was what drew me to them, but extremely impressed with their performance.
I have a pair of 1961 Monitors arriving this week also for use as front wides with my Arendal 1723 system
@@andrewmorrison8033 Nice. I got them right before New Years and used them on stands up until about a week ago. I was happy with the results and then mounted them in place. I think you’ll be quite happy with the results as well. They blend well with the 1723’s and I find the addition of wides to be worthwhile addition. Always takes me a bit to adjust and assess new gear and changes, but didn’t take long to see the benefits.
The PEQ treble test was brilliant. Great idea. You may want to remind listeners/viewers that test signals are much more diagnostic than music. IOW, if you can't hear it with pink noise, you almost-certainly will not hear it with music.
Another great video man. Interesting speaker and speaker manufacturer. Nothing but good things about these.
Much appreciated!
Thanks for doing the on-wall measurement as I'm sure I'm not the only one to think "this might make a good surround speaker". So, these or Revel S16's?
Please explain the math next time. It appears as though the 1/8 wavelength is the culprit here as opposed to the more commonly discussed 1/4 wave that is tied to SBIR (Speaker Boundary Interference Response)
Looking forward to your future video on speaker proximity to wall, wall mounting, & flush mounting. I recently tested the frequency response of a bookshelf speaker up against a wall and in 2" increments away from the wall on a 24" shelf. The results were interesting. Against wall had the best FR. I suspect most setups will need the speakers to be 45" or greater out from wall to push the SBIR below 75Hz where the sub can take over. Many people do not have this space to give up, or a subwoofer... Many things to consider depending on the specific variables/constraints.
Great stuff Erin, really interesting seeing those on wall measurements. I think I have finally found some bookshelf's for surround duty that are in my price range!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Erin! You are amazing!
You are!
I love you for going above and beyond with the measurements!
I would love to see some on-wall test for on-wall speakers like Klipsch RP-240D, Kef T or Martin Logan MOTION SLM. there is very little info about them
i am rooting for this company, bought their 1961 MONITOR, just like the one in the review but added woofer on top for MTM.
jupp no bass but does incredibly well with eq in a small room, 30hz no problem. but that was just for fun, subwoofers hooked up now and it works well like that, so small in the depth that it barely fits on my isoacoustic stands., but nice and heavy construction.
sounded almost as good as the Spendor SA1 i had to compared with back then. arendal speaker sounded better with more powerful amp, more than more powerful amp on a subwoofer. i have 2 power amps both class d, switched from powering speakers or subwoofers and found that speakers benefited more from better more powerful power amp.
I've had the opposite experience, I don't like the sound. No bass, lack of treble for my taste, no pin-point center image. My 1961 Monitors are going back.
@@andrewskaterrr i had to play the speaker for a long time before it got better, and i think toe in angle would adjust the image.
@@sudd3660 I had them firing directly at the MLP. You're just getting used to the sound (psychoacoustics). I've been "breaking them in" for 80hr+ so far, and measure every 10hr. Not a single dB change in frequency response so far. The company claims 50hr, but I'm going to 100hr and then publishing my results.
I am really interested in these speakers. Very good review, thank you.
Thanks!
Awesome review and I learned something new about 'on wall' placement. Thank you once again! Maybe 'in wall' or 'in ceiling' reviews forthcoming...? Thinking you could cut out the middle 2' of your wall like a donut hole and use a few premade inserts. Most 6.5" or 8" round speakers have the same cut out dimensions so the inserts could be reusable. Food for thought anyway...no one else has done this that I know of...think about all the new speaker testing opportunities 😀
That’s actually the plan. It’s similar to what I do for my driver testing.
Erin, Arendal will love you for this review. Nice little loudspkrs.
Hey, man, they made a nice little product. I wish it were more affordable but I think this is an example of paying more gives improved performance. Namely in the compression / linearity testing.
Great speaker.. Even better presenter. 🙏🙏
Too kind.
Great review and information as usual. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great review! I'm going full Arendal for my upcoming 7.2.4 theater based on the great reviews that are surfacing!
That on wall dip, is that due to SBIR? Any mitigation techniques available to keep it in a wall mount scenario?
Not really. Nothing can be done to remedy the wall-bounce of an on-wall speaker. You either flush-mount it or you move it so far that the null is lower in frequency than its playing (or you use other speakers to help fill it in, like a subwoofer).
@@ErinsAudioCorner Interesting that you avoided commenting on a speaker placed anywhere between the wall and distance required "that the null is lower in frequency" as this is where the vast majority of people place their speakers. Looking forward to hearing some practical info/advise on the future video you eluded too.
Great idea running the on-wall test BTW!
Great review and excellent work!
Thanks.
I closed my eyes and heard the EQ change - could tell it was a cut and not a boost as something got quieter on the top end. It would maybe be more audible with distinct instruments, but it's not a night and day difference.
Erin, could it be dangerous to use Dirac Live or similar on on-wall or on-ceiling speakers, as it might try to get rid of that suckout you explained? Since it’s a low impedance speaker already and I am planning to use 4 of them on-ceiling on a Denon AVR-X4800H, if that matters
Do these still sound good at lower/moderate volumes? I saw another review that you need to play them pretty loud to sound their best. I sit about 7 feet away and don't blast the volume too much.
Can you link that particular review?
@@rob21 This was a while ago now, but I believe it was Andrew Robinson's review. I don't think I can add a link without the comment being flagged, but you can search his channel for the review.
Great review! The Klippel is sick, neat to see a snippet of it. Go MATLAB! I have a pair of Arendal 1723 2S in my hands right now, and build quality and so on is really really nice. Arendal seems like a great brand. I'm not sure how to pronounce it either though... :)
MATLAB FTW!
Erin: Very exellentely
Well: Am I a joke to you?
😁
Really cool seeing the Klippel in action for this! Good review, make me wonder how the center is.
You and me both!
am wondering what the 1961 Monitors get you in addition.
It looks like a couple of db sensitivity and that's it?
So for a music system at max. 85db listening volume to me it looks like the bookshelves with a sub will be the same as the monitors with a sub.
Am I right or am I forgetting something?
How do you think the dispersion would be on its side as a center speaker? I’ve read that tweeters that cross lower are good candidates, but not sure how that waveguide behaves.
Erin, I guess you could use that EQ adjustment on top all the way arround and then compare the original sound with EQed version on some music.
its easier to detect difference like that with pink noise. My bet is most people would struggle really hard to hear a diffrence on music.
I think there are more variables in room acoustics to worry about than this narrow dips, and it's harder to hear dips than peaks.
Nice video Erin 😀. I am curious about the suck out sound when wall mounted. I went to Arendal website from your link on your website and looked at their manual. For optimal placement they suggest a spacing of 20 - 30 cm. (Yes cm not in. Incase other readers miss it as we're used to in here is USA). Monoprice & other have bookshelf mounts on a arm and platform. So it can be X cm or in" out from the wall. 1. Can you do this with your setup? 2. Would that cancel and/or help with that suck out? It's Product # 30829 on the Monoprice website.
I had the same question. Genelec also sell wall mounts for their monitors which naturally leave some distance to the wall
The distance from the wall will determine the frequency. The further away, the higher in frequency the dip occurs. At some point, you move the speaker so far away that the suckout is in the modal region and also likely crossed over before that.
Awesome performance for the size. My only concern would be that this is a golden sample since it came straight from Arendal. Even if it is, another sample with similar but not quite as good performance would still be a good deal.
I get the concern but it’s not something that I am worried about. My results mimic the results found on our website. Actually, my measurements show a higher LF roll off frequency then the measurements on their website.
Hello and congratulations for your excellent speakers’ analysis! I would like your opinion on something that is probleming me and I believe that you are the best to help me! I am thinking of buying either the Kali Audio in-8 2nd wave (760 € pair) or the Arendal 1961 bookselves (849 € pair) What is your opinion? which of the two affected you most subjectively? (soundwise only?). Not considering the addition of an amplifier for the Arendals. Thank you in advance.
You need to get a job b15/ arena 120 to compare. Those things are damn near impossible to beat for the price/size. Add a sub and it’s an absolute unit.
I wasn’t too impressed with the A120. Review here:
ruclips.net/video/DZo__woepJY/видео.html
Would a 3 way speaker on wall still have these same issues? Crossover for the woofer to mid usually is within that dipped area
Hey Erin, could you help explain why there’s a huge on axis dip? You said this occurs to every speaker mounted on wall, but why specifically around that frequency? Thank you!
Yep. It's the cancellation from the sound that is radiated behind the speaker with the sound that is radiated in front. The time delay of these two sounds corresponds with the cancellation. The frequency will depend on - basically - the depth of the speaker because that dictates how long it takes for the sound to hit the back wall. If the speaker is 5 inches deep then it would take less time to hit the back wall and cancel out with the front wave compared to a speaker that is 10 inches deep. The longer it takes in time, the lower the frequency. And vice versa.
Hope that helps.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Sorry for the late reply! Your response really helps and I just really want to thank you for all the work you’ve done for the community!
@@ErinsAudioCorner Hey Erin , that means that all 20 degree angle Atmos height speakers like 1961 heights , svs prime elevation that are designed to be mounted with no distance from the wall, will have the same issue?
Nice one E-man xx
Thanks.
Will this speakers be good for putting them behind a acoustic screen?
db response linearity should if possible..be extended into 110+ db?
If it had just 10 degrees wider radiation pattern (horizontally) it would be an insta-buy
Can you EQ out the axis dip because of the wall mount??
Would these be good on a medium sized room? (paired with a good subwoofer)
At 4 Ω or less, the speaker will need 2 W or more at 2,83 V, instead of 1 watt for an equivalent 8 Ω speaker. dB at 2,83 V is fine for testing, but dB/W is more meaningful between impedances and requirements. Sensitivity might be closer to 81 dB/W (three decibels less).
Sensitivity testing is done at 2.83v/1m. This is true for any speaker reviewed under the CTA-2034 guideline.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Yes, it's true also for AES2-2012, but this doesn't change that we need double of watts for 4 Ω and half for 16 Ω. If we want to test the same power of 1 W, a 4 Ω speaker should be tested at 2 V, otherwise it's like «cheating» and next speaker generation will have and impedance of 2, or maybe 1 Ω.
No, that isn't how it works. The impedance load of the speaker is not a constant 4 ohms across the frequency range. It is classified a 4 ohms speaker by standards of measuring. An amplifier will produce more than 1 watt at 4 ohms vs 8 ohms even if it isn't a pure doubling amplifier. 2.83 volts is a control (constant) that must be used during measurements.
@@williamkramer9069 I know that impedance is variable. According to AES2-2012 minimum impedance shouldn't drop under 80% of nominal impedance, otherwise specs must specify minimum impedance (ex: Focal). And yes, it's how it works. ¿Why 2,83 V? The maths will gave the answer, as John DeVore will do ("John DeVore goes on a rant about the High End Audio lie that inspired him to start his company"), or any book of physics, some articles of Audioholics or free notes (pdf) I have shared. By the way, the impedance and phase of some frequencies are more «relevant» than others.
Great review Erin. Would it be wrong to say sensitivity is 81dB at 1 Watt?( ie 2.83v into 4ohm load). Now that you're getting into on-wall measurements, I wonder how much power AVRs use trying to EQ that null on Atmos speakers 🤔
Yea, but I don’t worry about 1 watt ratings. Amplifiers put out voltage. Watts are watt happens (see what I did there?! Hahahaha) when you include resistance to the voltage. That’s why the standard is in volts.
IMHO, wattage ratings are just used because it’s a metric the consumer is used to and comfortable with. But voltage would be more ideal. Again, IMHO.
@@ErinsAudioCorner hahah, I see your dad jokes Erin 😂. Yeah, amps output voltage. I just convert them to 1 Watt to give an idea of the best amps for particular speakers (since they are rated in Watts). Cheap amps would really struggle on this for high SPL crowd
@@DesmondKarani 81 dB/W is probably the real sensitivity. With 4 Ω impedances we got a boost of 3 dB for the the same voltage, and if we don't know that we need to double current we might think that it is a free lunch. 2,83 V is the square root of 8Ω×1W, so for 4Ω the voltage should be 2 volts to check decibels for 1 watt. If we want to keep the "weird" unit "dB for 2,83 V" people need to know that it's for 2 watts. It's like speed of cars, how could we know which is faster if we don't care about units? Car A speed is 100 mph, and car B is 120 km/h... A is faster, but people might choose de car B because 120 more than 100. John DeVore did a great video about it, Audioholics some articles, and I shared some free notes in a forum.
Apart from that suckout, these 1961 might work well as Front Height, rear height, for Auro 3D upmix in a medium to large room 25 -30sq metres. What the dispersion? Is it narrow? Do they excel in movies gaming, what about blue ray concerts? Very little info for on wall height speakers looking for 5.1.4. I dont want to mak pot holes in my cielings to enjoy lowsy mixed ATMOS DVDs when i can simply use Auro 3D upmix. Any hieght speaker recomendations would be a welcome since all i get is upfirung Atmos speakers which sux on the wall?
I like your furry pink robot.
Haha. Thanks!
I'm curious what's going on with the wall setup and why the suck-out exists. My initial guess is it's a reflection-distance-cancelation issue, but then I'd expect this to exist and be seen on speakers placed close to walls too. It's not something I've ever personally investigated.
It is. The distance from the speaker to the wall and back to the microphone is the path length difference.
@@ErinsAudioCorner would this mean you'd see similar suck out on any speaker placed close to a wall? And as you move the speaker farther away, the frequency point of this dB cut shifts down the frequency band?
It's only weird to me because I've never seen anyone else ever really talk about this. People will talk reflections all day long, but no one brings this up. But I also assume wall treatment (if it targets the dip frequency) would negate the loss too.
I have been tempted to get these as rear surrounds, but at nearly $1000 Im a bit put off....
Any chance that you could review the Polk reserve series ? Thanks 👍 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I did review the R100 a few months ago. So far, that's it. Link:
ruclips.net/video/DzzD6cixTrM/видео.html
@@ErinsAudioCorner I was really wishing for the big towers, the R700, there are so many mixed opinions out there about them, you really do a great job. Thanks 👍
@@ErinsAudioCorner which sound better? The R100 the R200 or the this 1961 bookshelf?
Great review! Looks to be in he same league as the Elac DBRs etc but variance on the compromises, seems to handle more power and output very good, and it's AA..rendahl :)
Thanks for the info!
Hi Erin, what do you think is a better bang for buck for LCR for home theater? Q150 (on sale) or these arendals?
That's a tough one. The Q150 is great "bang for the buck" but the Arendals seem to be better for the task of higher volume listening and/or more dynamic range. Though, they're about 2-3x the price of the Q150.
That dip is a product of the wall reflection and I think it's frequency should depend on a distance from a radiating surface of the LF driver to a wall behind speaker. Is that correct? What is that distance in case of these speakers?
The frequency is based on the distance from the speaker to the wall and back again. It’s a path length difference.
Other dips higher in frequency can occur but are mitigated by the narrowing directivity (the speaker is not omnidirectional at these higher frequencies).
This is all typical and shows us the effect of wall-mounting a speaker. I plan to cover this in a bit more detail in a future video and also include at least one more speaker for example. 👍
@@ErinsAudioCorner Would this SBIR be an issue for all speakers placed near a front wall (at varying frequencies)? Or does wall-mounting the speaker amplify this affect? Likewise, would that mean flush mounted in-wall speakers eliminate this problem?
How do you feel about doing a 5.2.4 setup using just these speakers in a 11 by 19 room. Are they too small for the room?
11x19 feet, correct? If you're using a subwoofer, they might be alright. I'd personally likely look at their larger offerings for front L/C/R, though, just based on the fact that I like to listen a bit loudly. But, it's hard for me to say for sure what would work best for your needs.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Erin do you plan to get the 1723S bookshelves for review in order to compare them?
Great video. Not that I think they care it’s pronounced (R N Dal)
Does the bracket for wall mount place the speaker directly against the wall?
I’m not 100% sure about the VESA mount. But they do have a keyhole tab that would be for hanging the speaker on the wall.
@@ErinsAudioCorner It seems to be VESA 100. This makes me wonder about mounting to one of those articulating arms for small TV monitors (VESA 75-100). Then you can move it away from the wall, point it, and tilt it somewhat. That would make it easy to tweak the speaker position. But do these arms introduce rattles or resonances? I'm sure it depend on the mount. Maybe some isolation between speaker and mount? Anyone have experience with articulating TV mounts using small speakers like these?
Any chance of a 1723 review and compare?
I think there's definitely a chance. I just can't guarantee it.
Would be very interested in you testing Guru Audio Junior, it has even a smaller woofer
I looked at them. Don’t see any US dealers. If you’ve got a set to loan, though, LMK.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Ah, sorry, a bit difficult from Sweden to even arrange for a test
would this be a good speaker for mixing ?
Hmmmm.... hard to say. I'd think you'd want a speaker that would extend lower in bass for that. Unless you plan to add a subwoofer. I'd probably look at the Kali IN-5 or IN-8 offerings for mixing purposes. They extend lower but do have built-in limiters to keep them from being played too loud. They are also quite a bit larger. But, still, worth considering for your purpose.
You said it would be good for rear surrounds. How about side surrounds in a 5.2.4 set up? Would be on wall powered by an Emotiva XPA-9. I have some Fluance bipoles there now, but want to upgrade those.
I think it is 'A(hhh)-en-dal, not A-'ren-dal ;-) Not sure though, but being a Norwegian company this would be my (Danish) guess. Anyway, either is probably fine.
Omg, surface wall-mounting speakers looks like a horrible idea now. That creates quite a dilemna, since there are no good in-wall speakers available either. For front L & R speakers, you can set them away from the wall, but what do you recommend for atmos (ceiling) speakers and side surround speakers? (My theatre is so narrow that I have no choice but to go in-wall surround, but...)
Thanks for this review. I’ve been considering using the 1961 monitors as my bed layer and the bookshelves as atmos. Do you have any opinion on the performance of the monitor version?
The 1961 Monitor version with 2 mid-woofers in an MTM design is 87 db sensitivity, which is a nice step up from the 84 db on Bookshelf models. Only $300 more per pair. Then there is the 1961 Floor-standing model at $1,799 with 4 mid-woofers in a 2.5-way design, which has received rave reviews elsewhere.
@@Mark-rw3kw I didn’t really consider those at all. I’m new to home theater and have never owned towers before. My system right now is 11 identical bookshelves. The reason I was thinking monitors is to have an indentucal lcr. I’ve never heard a system with towers and mtm center before.
Wow, thanks for sharing this. This is indeed a well behave speaker but I would rather trade off some linearity for better bass extension.
Makes sense.
@@ErinsAudioCorner it would be interesting if you can do a review on the JBL L52 classic ☺️
How is the bass compared to KEF LS50 Meta? Not planning on using a sub (small room).
It seems to me that if a subwoofer is required for the 1961 Bookshelf, then one should seriously look at the 1961 Tower model for $1,799 , which has a lot more bass output and overall sensitivity is 87 db, instead of 84 db for the Bookshelf model. The Tower has is 2.5-way design with a tweeter and 4 mid-woofers. The 1961 Tower model has received some pretty good reviews.
I ordered the 1961 Monitors after seeing this written review for my desktop which needs a small footprint. Been interested in Arendal since Audioholics' 1723 Monitor review. I do NOT like the sound, not enough treble/clarity. I listened to them in my theater, at my desktop, and my friend's garage dedicated home theater. Their lack of bass is also very sad. I like my JBL 590s and 530s more, and am using the 530s as the desktop instead. Much better treble and way lower bass. My other issue that I've not heard anyone talk about is their center image. In all 3 setups I could not get a pin point center image, it was always larger/smeary/unfocused. I always find myself bothered because I can't focus on a solid center image. Did you experience this?
I'm trying to return them and Arendal is strongly urging me to keep them, and are claiming the 50hr break-in makes them go from "horrible" to great. I told them I'd do it and measure before/after. I'm up to 70hr and measure every 10hr, no change so far. I'll stop at 100hr which will finish tomorrow. Would you want the REW measurement file? In-room at 1m.
Setups:
JBL SDP-55 + Outlaw 7000X
Topping E30 + L30 + PA3S
Denon x6700 + Emotiva XPA 7
Maybe you just like more bass and highs than this speaker provides. Nothing wrong with that. I personally don’t like a speaker with much more HF level than this speaker.
Not sure about the imaging/focus issue you’re having.
Bottom line: it doesn’t seem like this speaker is a good fit for you. If you don’t like it, no sense in making yourself like it.
Perhaps you have a unit wired with reverse polarity on one tweeter? Sure sounds like a polarity problem, e.g. manufacturing issue. I'm not particularily fond of "the Arendal Sound" myself, but that's more of a personal cheap soft dome tweeter issue, waveguide or not. Anyway, if you invert one of the speakers, maybe you'll come closer to a solution.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Agreed, which is why I reached out for a return, but they really are being a hassle to return. My buddy with the garage theater had just built his CSS 2TD-X so we got to compare them. We both preferred those more, but they are DIY. Would be cool if you got one of those to review.
@@audio_facts It definitely not a polarity issue, I can easily tell a polarity mismatch. The center image is there, but it's not tight, like a 2ft circle vs a 6in circle. Best way I can explain it. All my other speakers don't have this issue, except for some white van rip off speakers I got for free that had "rubber" tweeters. Maybe it's because they're less bright? Not sure. But I personally can't deal with it. Really stinks because I was looking at the 1723S for my next upgrade.
@@andrewskaterrr I actually did get those to review (the CSS). But they sounded really off and the results looked quite bad and I wasn’t convinced that they didn’t receive shipping damage because one had an internal rattle. So I sent them back and hopefully they’ll send me another set to review.
That on wall suck out looks too deep to EQ?
What could one do about it with this, or other speakers, if it's so drastic?
Oh, yea, you ain't fixing that via EQ. The dip width/amplitude *I think* (I'm still learning) is due to the height of the speaker. It's the time it takes for the sound to go behind the speaker and then back out in front of the speaker and that delta time is the null frequency.
Nothing really, you need to put them inside the wall flush mount.
I wonder if a 3"-4" acoustic absorber around the speaker would absorb a significant amount of that sound around 400hz causing the cancellation.
Isn't this just an SBIR effect? One of the strategies to combat SBIR is close wall placement to push the cancelation to high enough frequencies that reasonably thick absorption can mitigate.
@@joentell around doesn’t really work, it must be behind the speaker and with an on-wall installation you don’t really have space. Unless it’s a ‘fake wall’ in a home cinema.
Hey Would U Pick Kefs R11 Meta Speakers Over The Arendal 1723 Speakers????
No experience with the R11 Meta.
@@ErinsAudioCorner , Is It Possible That You'll 🤔 Get To Do Them 1 Day??? Like U , ( Cause I Have Klipsch Speakers @The Moment) I Like My Future Speakers, To IMMERSED Me In My Sound Stage! Just Trying To Upgrade From What I Have???
@@michaelburton5198 I doubt it. I would have to depend on someone to loan me a pair.
@@ErinsAudioCorner, Do U Have A Pick On What Speakers Would Be Great Good For Home Theater 🎥 Set Up???? Arendal Speakers, Martin Logan, Kef Ect.Ect
Would it make a good center speaker?
Standing upright? Sure.
Laying on its side? Not so much. But it’s still better than many MTM center channels.
Can I hear that? Yes. Is it a big difference, not really. At least not with pink noise. Not the on wall problem. Just don't put on wall it seems.
If only they had a 3-way center….
they have too large waveguide for that. unless you buy the towers