Truck Frame: Shortened, Pancaked, and Notched
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2019
- '61 Apache gets stripped down to the frame, pancaked, shortened, and notched!
How to Shorten a 60-62 C10: www.gwellwood.com/project-cars...
Frame Notches FEA: 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/sh...
Good source for truck stuff: www.67-72chevytrucks.com
GREAT source for bodywork: / 1gibsonl4
Follow the build: www.gwellwood.com/project-cars...
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Turbocharged '61 Chevy Pickup Project Playlist:
Planning: • Planning it Out!!
Brakes: • Fixing the Brakes on m...
Running: • First Start of my 1961...
BONUS - Alive: • BONUS: Alive After 20 ...
Driving: • The First Drive in 20 ...
New Drivetrain: • Picking The Drivetrain
LQ4 Refresh: • Refreshing an LQ4 6.0L...
Frame Mods: • Truck Frame: Shortened...
Suspension & Steering: • Laying Low, Rack & Pin...
Motor Mounts: • A Whole Wack of Stuff ...
Inner Fenders: • Tubbing Inner Fenders ...
Turbo!: • "DIY" (Fabrication-Hea...
Coolers & AC: • Placing all the Cooler...
Cab Rust: • Fixing ALL the Nasty C...
Rusty Doors: • Fixing the Doors!
Bed Shorten: • HOW TO: Shorten a Step...
Panhard! • Fabricating a Panhard ...
Hood Repair: • Fixing The Hood
Rear Fenders: • Fixing Rear Fenders!
Nose: • Fixing The Nose!
Bed Patches: • Fixing the Bed!
Front Fenders: • Fixing Front Fenders!
BONUS - Hood Blasting: • Remove Paint AND Stress!
Cab Blasting: • Blasting the Cab!
Frame Blasting: • Blasting the Frame
Primer!: • Primering the Pickup!
BONUS - Trailer Hitch: • BUILD: A Trailer Hitch!
Gas Tank: • Rear-Mounted Gas Tank!
BONUS - Fully Rollerize a 4L80E: • HOW TO: Fully Rolleriz...
BONUS - Install a Limited Slip Differential: • HOW TO: Install a Limi...
Begin Reassembly: • Reassembling the Truck!
Pre-Paint Prep: • Pre-Paint Prep Prep!
BONUS - Tailgate Logo!: • Put Your Own Logo in Y...
Paint!: • Painting the '61 Chevy...
BONUS - Modernize your Steering Wheel: • Vintage Steering Wheel...
Back Glass: • HOW TO: Install Back G...
Windshield Glass: • HOW NOT TO: Install a ...
Door Glass: • HOW TO: Install Door G...
BONUS - Barrel Engine Cover: • HOW TO: MAKE an LS Eng...
Headlights: • Installing & Wiring Aw...
Turbo Exhaust: • Fabricating Turbo Exhaust
Fixing Door Latches: • Fixing Door Latches
Bumper Brackets: • Making Bumper Brackets
Modern Wipers: • Fitting Modern Wiper Arms
Stainless Fuel Filler: • Fabricating a Fuel Filler
Brake Lines: • Making Brake Lines
Battery Mount: • Frame Mounting the Bat...
Coolers: • Engine & Trans Cooler ...
BONUS!! TEASER!! • '61 Apache Teaser
DBW: • Fabricating a Drive-By...
First Start? • Finally, a REAL "First...
Boring Cummute: • The Boring Commute 3: ...
Cup Holders: • Fabricating a Cup Holder
Buckets: • Modern Seats & Belts F...
Tunes: • Build Subwoofer Boxes!
DAMAGE! • This Air Filter Could ...
Car Show: • Knox Mountain Hillclim...
Tuning: • Hacking a GM Computer ...
Sunday 28 March 2021, found your video by accident and will watch your others regarding this Apache. Mine is very similar (longbed and motor) and I plan to keep it that way. I want to have the motor rebuilt, the transmission and axle upgraded, then interior and outside made new. So glad I found your channel.
Long beds rule
Looks Great!! Keep the videos coming!! Amazing project!!
I love chassis work like this. 👍🏻
Just found your channel, pretty good so far. I think the x. Frame was particular to the long bed version as none of the 60 / 61 C10s I've had were x framed. They were both factory short beds.
great video very informative and to the point Awesome work👍
Great video! Thank you!
Good work!
That is a LOT of work.
A crazy amount of work.
The torsion bars can be turned one notch.
Where the bars connect to the back piece.
That allows the truck to lay down. To the front piece that you chopped the belly.
The trailing arms can be repositioned on the outside of the frame. So it will lay down on the pumpkin.
I have seen it before. But I would not want to be that close to the ground.
Make a short frame out of a long bed.
That is something really crazy. For the x box frame 😷👈
Doom on a 486 DX2 50 was bad enough. Dang good times though.
Nice job on the channeling, btw. 8)
Thank you for making these videos. Great tutorial for modifying these frames.
What gauge metal did you use for the notches?
3/16" plate. The frame appeared to be in-between 1/8" and 3/16", so I went 3/16"
Do I need to add length to the tail of the frame? Long bed fleet-side to a short bed step-side. It's not looking like the bed is lining up with the frame mounting points, but also the frame I went away from was very hacked up so maybe I am overlooking something simple. Either way I used the information you took the time to share and it worked great, thank you for doing so. -Dustin
You cut 8" off the back of the frame. The spacing between the original front mounts and second mounts don't seem to be retained when the second mounts become the new front mounts (if that makes sense). As of right now, I have not done anything with the bed yet - that will be a later video.
In my next lifetime, maybe i will have a garage like yours.
Man,that’s a lot of work. I swapped my 66 Chevy rear coil suspension for a leaf spring from a GMC and separating everything from each other by removing the rivets was a lot of work and was nothing by comparison..
I do gotta say, my 61 rides sooooo good
Stock everything every motor and trans
Hello TSTG, enjoying your channel.
I too have a 61 that I'm currently working on. As I was installing a '79 front suspension, I ran across your channel and was interested in how you moved the suspension forward to center the wheels between the fenders. In your opinion…how much forward can you mount the suspension before it's out of whack? and once you've pancaked the crossmember are you only mounting with the 6 bolts on the bottom and not the addition 2 on each sides?
Stay safe and keep up the awesome work…I'll be watching!
Since the upper and lower control arms are attached to the crossmember, you're not going to get anything "functionally" out of wack the more you move it. However, if the wheel goes too far forward in the wheel well, it's going to "look" out of wack. I incorporated the side bolt holes with the motor mounts in Part 9: ruclips.net/video/_6GZcOXhdOA/видео.html
@@GregWellwood Thanks for the speedy reply!!! Gotta watch Part 9 again. I've always disliked the how far back the wheels set in the fender well. I'll get the fenders back on and try to get close to center as I can, which means a definite upgrade in steering components. Thanks again for your help!! BTW, Love the shop!
No company makes a rear notch or a weld it yourself notch for the 60’s X-Frame, I’d be a customer if you thought about braking a pair of notches for my 61? 😊
Back at your videos for my build haha.
Mounting my engine and trans now.
What degree is your engine and trans sitting at?
Mine is sitting at about 6*
Ive seen other videos where their engines also look like they have a severe angle.
Should i fab a bracket to raise the tailshaft? Or leave it?
Thoughts?
Thanks
If the driveshaft is going "uphill" to the differential, or if the u-joint operating angle at the trans is more than 3°, you need to raise the transmission.
I have a '60 short frame. It appears that lowering the truck will cause an interference between the inner x-frame beams and the trailing arms. In the last part of your video, it appears that you may have made modifications to gain clearance. Can you comment on this?
You are correct - there are (were) clearance issues. Since I am installing a 9" Ford axle, I will be welding the saddles such that the trailing arms will JUST squeeze between the frame rails and X legs (currently just sitting, not even tacked). While there currently IS clearance, I can always make more clearance with a grinder. You could also get more clearance with 3" blocks instead of 2" blocks, but that will cut into ground clearance (it will -just- work with 18" wheels, but I'm not convinced the 3" blocks are a wise move yet).
On a 1960 c10 a friend hooked a chain around the last rear crossmember and attempted to pull out a tree stump . Needless to say, the crossmember got ripped out. does it have to be from a 1960 to replace the crossmember?
I believe the 60-62 frames are wider at the rear than the 63+ frames, so yeah-ish. In an upcoming video, I will be changing the rearmost crossmember into a hidden-trailer-hitch/fuel-tank-mount.
I don't understand why you couldn't do the z cut on at least the back portion. I don't have my frame out yet, so I can only go by what I see on your website and videos, but since that cross member was able to slide the entire 12 inches, while still inside the frame rails, there is obviously that large of a section of frame that should be able to be used.
On the 60-62 "X" frames, the frame rails taper under the cab. , it -just becomes parallel right where I shortened it. On the 63-up frames, it's parallel under the cab - a much better place to shorten, and more room for a good Z cut. Advantage, though: the "X" adds a LOT of rigidity.
Great videos... i jave a generation i have a 60 short bed Big window ..i want chang out the front suspension to remove the torsion bar suspension ... i can get a 80 front suspension can you tell me would i need to also change the original steering gear do i have to use the steering from an 80 or can i just use the cross member n Arams up n lower from the newer suspension
The '80 will bolt in but you will need to drill a couple holes as the holes don't line up. The '80 steering box doesn't bolt up, but there are adapter kits you can buy, I think "CaptainFab" sells one. Can probably use the original box, but the '80 will give you power steering.
@@GregWellwood thank you ill look into that adapter .. ill be able to keep my steering column right or need to change it
Should be able to keep the column. Spend some time at 67-72chevytrucks.com in the 60-66 section.
@@GregWellwood thank you for the information sir ... yes was watching some vidoes n reading up on captainfab adapter ..thank you again
Hey TSTG, did the upgraded crossmember fit snug? I just test fitted mine and it appears wider than the original giving about a 3/8" gap (each side) between the crossmember and the frame rails. What's your thoughts on the subject? Thanks.
It fit good enough that I didn't chose to worry about it. Nothing on these trucks was a perfect fit back in the day either. It will work.
Oh - did you move the crossmember forward? The frame rails taper inward at the front, so there will be a potential increase in gap. Though I don't expect it to be much.
@@GregWellwood I did move the crossmember forward 1.25". Even in the stock location there's a gap. I'm thinking of making spacer plates to snug it to the frame rail. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks.
Does the oil pan hang below the crossmember after being pancaked?
I shortened the pan 2" and created my own motor and trans mounts so nothing hangs below the frame.
When you moved the crossmember forward 1 inch, did you line the 4 frame bolts that lined up and then move it 1 inch? On your website it you said when you used the jig to drill the other 2 frame holes, you said it made the crossmember 3/4 inch forward. So does that mean you lined up the 2(4) holes and then moved forward 1/4 inch to make it 1 inch total or did you line up the 2(4) holes and then move forward 1 inch. Please let me know, I’m at this step and I’m ready to drill my holes
I'll have to go check my website now. The crossmember is moved 1" forward. The lower control arms are moved 3/4" forward.
Yes, you are correct. On Page 2 of the '61 Apache build, I said I was going to move the crossmember 3/4" forward and drilled all new holes (I made a jig for the bottom six). A few pictures later, I say "I lied. I moved the crossmember 1" forward." In a sense, you're reading the blog as I build, and sometimes plans change. Sometimes I go back and re-write it, and sometimes I just keep the ideas going. It could be confusing, but it could also help readers see my thought process on things.
@@GregWellwood Thank you so much, you rock!!! So to be clear, on my 61 I have a square body front end i pancaked and have 2.5 inch drop spindles. Would you recommend that I line up the 2(4) bottom frame holes and the push it forward 1 inch? Thank you for always responding
I went and re-worded Page 2, I think it would remove confusion. Go there, and look for "Look! I made you a DRILLING TEMPLATE." and download it and print it. Good luck!
@@GregWellwood thank you! You rock man
How can you keep the stock trailing arms, lay frame, and keep them come hitting the X frame?
The trailing arms can only go so far before you have clearance issues. Taller blocks would be next (regardless if you have an X frame or not). I have 2" blocks on it already, but I did make a set of 3" blocks just in case.
Thank you
What did you measure off of in the first to get the 11.25 inches? So there both the same?
I don't think it matters. I did not cut through the "bump", and I did not cut through the e-brake holes.
@@GregWellwood ok thanks
Like your skills and great videos but fleetside is more sexy from 1960 up. 48 to 53 chevy pickups are sexy step sides. The front fenders and rear fender have equal proportion of roundness and the running boards tie it in. 1960 cab and front fenders looks way better fleetside. Sexy lol.
I, too, will look more sexy from 60 and up. (grin)
Is it possible to convert a 1961 long C10 into a short bed?
This actual video converts a 1961 long c10 into a short bed. There is a video in shortening the bed itself in the '61 playlist.
How much would it cost for these modifications?
Probably a lot more than just buying one that doesn't need the modifications. But I have this grinder and welder.... (grin)
Playing DOOM on a 386? Lucky bastard, I only had a 386SX at the time..
Was a 386DX25. Initially 1M ram (I added another 4M), on a 40M hard drive. Things picked up with a Monster 3D card, but man... that was a long time ago. 2400baud modem long time ago....
@@GregWellwood Ah.. good times..
I am gatherd'