Again a great Approaching the Scene. First I must say no matter the maker of a lens or camera to see images of the night sky is awesome when done right, like you do, and I also have the MSM and practice before the March rainbow shooting. Since I first started MW's in '14 with the first Ultra wide Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 I could never understand the elongated stars in the corners but pinpoint centers but as the years went by lenses got better and even today it still happens. When you show your images, even the long exposure on the MSM, there is the elongation of stars in the corners. Even my Sony 1224 f/2.8 and f/4 @ 12mm and 5 or 2 sec when magnified on back of camera it can be seen. It is just pincushion distortion (drove me crazy for years) when the lens keeps vertical stuff vertical and no lens correction works that for stars. I use ON 1 a lot but Capture One has a manufacture pincushion correction that corrects it for all to be pinpoint. But a warning it messes with the ground so correct then process in your favorite program, like ON1. Now Capture One has plug in for ON1...ON1 also easier to blend a ground with a sky (corrected in all ways). But to do the Milky Way the Radial tool (inverted and feather adjusted) of LR around the MW is best instead of dodge and burn, it is like a reverse edit to bring out the MW (I have told/suggested ON1 about but no go yet). So no matter how fast you shoot do not worry anymore! The nice thing better lenses mean less distortion with wider lenses meaning better pano merge in post and fewer shots for a pano. Also have found that using the "Z" mount with the MSM keeps the camera leveler when panning across at 180 deg of frames (like with a fluid head) and being higher getting lower more stable with less leg length, just saying as an add. When you get down to the south of Oregon for those vertical MW's in August use Planit Pro tide part (sine wave in time area) to plan when low tide for those sea stacks shots. A shot of MW rainbow over Mount Hood maybe April when higher. Great wherever you shoot! Thanks for the filter review always nice to see but with Daylight LED lights in cities it is more about highlight control (low ISO) and in some cases higher f/ also to have detail in highlight areas, zebras at night!!!
We have been one of the lucky ones here in the DFW area. Power all week so far and broke out the fireplace and dry wood after 10 years of non-use! So many people suffering from the mismanagement of our power grid here in Texas.
Whenever I see a pic of windmills the blades are stationary probably due to fast shutter speed. Can you get a pic of a field of windmills using a slow shutter speed showing full rotation of the blades, like an airplane propeller? We don't have them here in Florida, but I just think that shot would be killer. Thanks, love your videos!
As a flight instructor for a major airline and photography is my avocation, I'm thinking that the shooting of a windmill/power turbine would be similar to that of an airplane propeller. Divide the RPM of the propeller by 60 and multiply the results by the number of blades. Thus, a Cessna 172 cruise RPM is about 2300. 2300/60 = 38.33 x 2 (number of blades) = 1/76 sec. See if that works. I'd like to hear either way!
No, I like leo photos much smaller system. It's in my links with the tracker under night gear: www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks you can also see it in this video: ruclips.net/video/lXWm5rewdhg/видео.html
Hudson, I've encountered an issue with the Z7ii Live View black even with ambient light available. I see others where this is not a problem and a DPReview question with several reporting the issue. A solution presented is a creating a custom Picture Control that basically increases gain. This has to be a setting or firmware version issue given others Z7ii works fine, have you seen this issue? What picture control are you using? Shooting with the Z7ii and 20mm S 1.8
Nope, not at all. I'm blown away by the ability to see stars and planets in the z6 and 7ii on moonless nights. I use the flat profile to better approximate the RAW data on the back view and in the histogram.
Hudson what I feel from you is your passion for photography. This is a great influence on my out look for expressing my self in photography.. Thank You.
I have used it. I think it's a bit better stopped down to 5.6. It's wicked sharp and great, but to get equivalent iso you need about 5 minutes exposure, that's 10 minutes per shot with LE noise reduction. I much prefer the 20 1.8 or the 14-24 which both excel edge to edge wide open. I have a video that compares all three lenses from earlier this year.
Hello, What an interesting video, I thought I was doing something wrong when I tried the 500 rules even whit the D850 the stars where never right. Keep well, keep safe and have fun.
Yikes forgot those. Here you go. I'll add them to the description too. The magnetic feature and thin build on the Kase is pretty rad, but both are wonderful. bhpho.to/2KMDBYk / amzn.to/2NFvXAe
What head was used to mount the MSM on the tripod in your studio recording, not the real-world example? also, do you recommend that or the Manfrotto one you used on the field?
The setup in studio was on this: ruclips.net/video/Ll9BRL_RkXA/видео.html and the field version is my favorite setup I've ever used: ruclips.net/video/fKjchwMSu7Y/видео.html I carry the 500AH on the big legs whenever I can and often both systems. For example I filmed that night segment on the lightweight rig and did the star work on the big system. In the studio video, it was vice versa. :-)
If you were to not use a star tracker and instead use the image stacking method to reduce noise, with the z7 ii, do you need an external shutter release remote? or can you do it through the app?
Why do people think the MSM tracker is super light? You still need a wedge and a ballhead, plus the laser adds bulk. The complete package is a little lighter than the main brands of trackers, but people focus on just the MSM clockwork box. When I was considering the MSM, it aspired to provide what the name says...move, shoot, move capability for time lapse motion pans. They dumbed-down the product and it's now just a tracker. I'm excited for the really novel Benro robotic head on Kickstarter. And for lightweight shooting, I'm interested in trying Sequator and star stacking rather than using a tracker.
I adore mine. I would never use the wedge or Z though. No need with a good ball head like a one pound GXP. Just line up the notch above and you can get any comp you want. Wedges or Z's also reduce stability far too much. The entire kit including the ball, Luma Labs arca plate and laser is less than 2 pounds 6 ounces. Lighter than my old 14-24 and smaller in my bag. I love it and the results I'm getting are so much better than my year of using the NPF rule, Starry Landscape Stacker on my Macbook Pro and Seqeutor on my PC desktop. SLS is by far my favorite of the two, but neither touch the tracker results. I'd love that year back with the MSM in some of the locations I shot stacks instead. You may have to travel that road for yourself though. Just remember the tracker is there. Move shoot move is perfectly named too. Other trackers with illuminated reticles (I own the iOptron) are OK to set up in blue hour when the north star is prominent, but take a lot of trial and error in a sea of bright stars once theyre all out. Moving is a horrible pain. I can realign with the MSM laser in about 20 seconds, and it's more than accurate enough up to 50mm. It's amazing for backpackers and people who want more than one shot like me. My conclusions : MSM for landscapes every time. iOptron for deep sky long lens work and set up early. I prefer Syrp's motion timelapse gear. The Benro I've not tried, but I'm skeptical it could replace my favorite heads for day in day out work or my timelapse kit from Syrp. I'd love to be proven wrong, but I'm pretty picky about heads and motion control gear.
Thanks! Looks like a great lens. The star cluster you captured is the Beehive, aka Messier 44, in Cancer. If you want to be more accurate with polar alignment, aim the MSM about a laser beam width or two away from Polaris in the direction of the end star in the handle of the Big Dipper. Polaris is about 2/3rds of a degree off the true celestial pole. Clear skies!
True enough. Accurate alignment becomes more an issue 35mm and longer and with longer exposures, and when shooting multiple frames to stack. It’s just that it’s just as easy to align a smidgen off Polaris in the right direction, at least with practice. I will read with delight all the tales of woe people will have when trying to use (if and when they get it) their spanking new Benro tripod head that promises to do it all automatically and precisely. We shall see!
I need a little guidance. First...I really enjoy the series. I'm on my 11th Nikon in 47 years having upgraded from my D700 to the Z6 II. I try to shoot with a crop in mind...add a bit more to the scene and, if necessary, crop to fit a print (5x7, 8x10, etc.). I try to think in 35mm film terms. I shot a great picture of an old restored Ford truck. The grill with the Ford logo and the "teeth" that the grill formed was great...until I went to make a print. I shot/cropped to close to fit any standard print format. In looking at the reference material for the camera, I can't find anything that gives me a clue as to where the "35mm" frame is. Everything refers to the autofocus zone. There are 4 red corners that delineate the autofocus area but there's a lot more in the viewfinder frame. Should I consider the corners the 35mm frame. Suggestions folks! Thanks again for this great service. Working for a major airline, I get to PDX quite a bit as one of my pilot buddies owns a vineyard in Hood River. Great area for photography.
those red corners totally depend on the AF mode. Yes the corners of the viewfinder or LCD are the corners of the 35mm frame. You can program a button to clear the screen, but it's not in the display options. That's a complaint of mine as i do my long term review. I don't want to burn a button for that clear view option. Just know that the edges are the 35mm frame and there is usually some bit of data overlying that frame.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks! I guess that from now on, I need to "back out" a bit and leave a bit of room for a "35mm" type print. I can always crop a bit but it's kinda hard to add something that's not there!
Oh yeah. Once you use any of the new mirrorless Nikons' EVFs in the dark, you'll never go back to a Dslr for low light. I can focus the Z7ii on a bright star in pitchblackness and I can see to compose the landscape with the Z9's starlight view on a tripod. It's flat nuts.
How does the 14 to 30 f4 compare. Would you be more inclined to use the 14 to 24 or a panno on the 20mm. I have the 14 to 30 and the 20mm, and I am think of trading for the 14 to 24, but a little concerned about weight and filter cost
I think the F4 lenses would now work great with this set-up. The 2.8s were great when you didn't have star tracking because you had to get every bit of light out of the lens possible. But with longer exposures possible with this system, F4 should be fine!
I was out with Hudson when he captured that beach milkyway shot he showed in the video using my 14-30 F4 on the MSM tracker. The images came out really nice but the down side was a 300 second exposure at F5.6. If you're using Long Exposure noise reduction you are looking at 10 minutes between exposures. I was loosing patience. I share your dilemma on the 14-30 and 20 f1.8 vs the new 14-20 mainly on the filters.
So why shoot with the Z7II when the Z6ii has less pixels and thus wider photo receptors for the low light work? It has been widely acclaimed has a killer camera for night work.
Not at 500 iso with the star tracker for 180seconds. Under 800 iso is a toss up for noise. Before the tracker, I'd use the 6 every time. With the tracker I don't worry about noise, since I can go for minutes at low iso with pinpoint stars still, whenever I can keep the iso low, give me the 7 please.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have both the Z6ii and the original Z7 plus the MSM. I will be doing a month of night photography this summer in Utah and your video is making me rethink my approach. I was planning on using the Z6ii for a majority of the night photography, Would the same technique with the Z7 still hold with the ambient temperatures are a bit higher at night? We are talking Late June into July in Capitol Reef NP.
The z6ii will be a bit better at low light focus and has the awesome extended shutter speeds, but the 7 will give you lots more resolution on the move shoot move and noise is not an issue that way. Just be careful focusing. The sensors are built to stay hot in summer temperatures filming for long periods in video mode. Not an issue in either camera.
Hi, I have been a fan of your videos. Love the topics and format you cover them in. Do you have a video on using the MoveShootMove star tracker. I recently purchased one. Thanks
Which MSM star tracker kit option would you recommend (have a ball head already RRS BH40) that would give me the ability to photography a sharper Milky Way as it moves across the sky . Normally during the course of a MW shoot I move around to at least 2-3 location for foreground options.
Hey there, it's affiliate linked in my videos descrption age in the night section here: www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks get the B kit with just the laser. That's all you need.
Those mountain shots are beautiful…
stars! way too much light where I live. that's another reason I love these videos. many thanks
You guys are so lucky that you can do star photography in the summer. Not jealous at all!
Great video! I may end up upgrading to that 14-24 soon. Looking up the move shoot move too. Thanks for the test on this great gear!
They're both sweet. The msm is so easy to carry and align. It's a delight.
Again a great Approaching the Scene. First I must say no matter the maker of a lens or camera to see images of the night sky is awesome when done right, like you do, and I also have the MSM and practice before the March rainbow shooting. Since I first started MW's in '14 with the first Ultra wide Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 I could never understand the elongated stars in the corners but pinpoint centers but as the years went by lenses got better and even today it still happens. When you show your images, even the long exposure on the MSM, there is the elongation of stars in the corners. Even my Sony 1224 f/2.8 and f/4 @ 12mm and 5 or 2 sec when magnified on back of camera it can be seen. It is just pincushion distortion (drove me crazy for years) when the lens keeps vertical stuff vertical and no lens correction works that for stars. I use ON 1 a lot but Capture One has a manufacture pincushion correction that corrects it for all to be pinpoint. But a warning it messes with the ground so correct then process in your favorite program, like ON1. Now Capture One has plug in for ON1...ON1 also easier to blend a ground with a sky (corrected in all ways). But to do the Milky Way the Radial tool (inverted and feather adjusted) of LR around the MW is best instead of dodge and burn, it is like a reverse edit to bring out the MW (I have told/suggested ON1 about but no go yet). So no matter how fast you shoot do not worry anymore! The nice thing better lenses mean less distortion with wider lenses meaning better pano merge in post and fewer shots for a pano. Also have found that using the "Z" mount with the MSM keeps the camera leveler when panning across at 180 deg of frames (like with a fluid head) and being higher getting lower more stable with less leg length, just saying as an add. When you get down to the south of Oregon for those vertical MW's in August use Planit Pro tide part (sine wave in time area) to plan when low tide for those sea stacks shots. A shot of MW rainbow over Mount Hood maybe April when higher. Great wherever you shoot! Thanks for the filter review always nice to see but with Daylight LED lights in cities it is more about highlight control (low ISO) and in some cases higher f/ also to have detail in highlight areas, zebras at night!!!
Living up here in Seattle, I’m surprised more about your ability to find somewhere to see the stars than to photograph them! Awesome video!
Thanks. This is helpful as I consider getting the Z7ii.
We have been one of the lucky ones here in the DFW area. Power all week so far and broke out the fireplace and dry wood after 10 years of non-use! So many people suffering from the mismanagement of our power grid here in Texas.
Whenever I see a pic of windmills the blades are stationary probably due to fast shutter speed. Can you get a pic of a field of windmills using a slow shutter speed showing full rotation of the blades, like an airplane propeller? We don't have them here in Florida, but I just think that shot would be killer. Thanks, love your videos!
As a flight instructor for a major airline and photography is my avocation, I'm thinking that the shooting of a windmill/power turbine would be similar to that of an airplane propeller. Divide the RPM of the propeller by 60 and multiply the results by the number of blades. Thus, a Cessna 172 cruise RPM is about 2300. 2300/60 = 38.33 x 2 (number of blades) = 1/76 sec. See if that works. I'd like to hear either way!
@@winwhitmire2387 There are no windmills anywhere near me, so I cant try it here, but thanks! Maybe someone will try it.
So on the bottom of the MSM is that a quick release plate from Kirk Photo???
No, I like leo photos much smaller system. It's in my links with the tracker under night gear: www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks you can also see it in this video: ruclips.net/video/lXWm5rewdhg/видео.html
Hudson, I've encountered an issue with the Z7ii Live View black even with ambient light available. I see others where this is not a problem and a DPReview question with several reporting the issue. A solution presented is a creating a custom Picture Control that basically increases gain. This has to be a setting or firmware version issue given others Z7ii works fine, have you seen this issue? What picture control are you using?
Shooting with the Z7ii and 20mm S 1.8
Nope, not at all. I'm blown away by the ability to see stars and planets in the z6 and 7ii on moonless nights. I use the flat profile to better approximate the RAW data on the back view and in the histogram.
Great Video! Thanks
Hudson what I feel from you is your passion for photography. This is a great influence on my out look for expressing my self in photography.. Thank You.
Have you considered using the 14-30mm F4 lens since you are using the MSM tracker?
I have used it. I think it's a bit better stopped down to 5.6. It's wicked sharp and great, but to get equivalent iso you need about 5 minutes exposure, that's 10 minutes per shot with LE noise reduction. I much prefer the 20 1.8 or the 14-24 which both excel edge to edge wide open. I have a video that compares all three lenses from earlier this year.
Hello, What an interesting video, I thought I was doing something wrong when I tried the 500 rules even whit the D850 the stars where never right. Keep well, keep safe and have fun.
Hudson, are links to check out the two filters the Case & Nisi night filters?
Yikes forgot those. Here you go. I'll add them to the description too. The magnetic feature and thin build on the Kase is pretty rad, but both are wonderful. bhpho.to/2KMDBYk / amzn.to/2NFvXAe
most excellent! thanks and again a great video
What head was used to mount the MSM on the tripod in your studio recording, not the real-world example? also, do you recommend that or the Manfrotto one you used on the field?
The setup in studio was on this: ruclips.net/video/Ll9BRL_RkXA/видео.html and the field version is my favorite setup I've ever used: ruclips.net/video/fKjchwMSu7Y/видео.html I carry the 500AH on the big legs whenever I can and often both systems. For example I filmed that night segment on the lightweight rig and did the star work on the big system. In the studio video, it was vice versa. :-)
HH is that the internal Kase light pollution filter you used?
If you were to not use a star tracker and instead use the image stacking method to reduce noise, with the z7 ii, do you need an external shutter release remote? or can you do it through the app?
You can do it with the intervalometer in the camera. ;)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto They have those now!? technology
Why do people think the MSM tracker is super light? You still need a wedge and a ballhead, plus the laser adds bulk. The complete package is a little lighter than the main brands of trackers, but people focus on just the MSM clockwork box. When I was considering the MSM, it aspired to provide what the name says...move, shoot, move capability for time lapse motion pans. They dumbed-down the product and it's now just a tracker. I'm excited for the really novel Benro robotic head on Kickstarter. And for lightweight shooting, I'm interested in trying Sequator and star stacking rather than using a tracker.
I adore mine. I would never use the wedge or Z though. No need with a good ball head like a one pound GXP. Just line up the notch above and you can get any comp you want. Wedges or Z's also reduce stability far too much. The entire kit including the ball, Luma Labs arca plate and laser is less than 2 pounds 6 ounces. Lighter than my old 14-24 and smaller in my bag.
I love it and the results I'm getting are so much better than my year of using the NPF rule, Starry Landscape Stacker on my Macbook Pro and Seqeutor on my PC desktop. SLS is by far my favorite of the two, but neither touch the tracker results. I'd love that year back with the MSM in some of the locations I shot stacks instead. You may have to travel that road for yourself though. Just remember the tracker is there.
Move shoot move is perfectly named too. Other trackers with illuminated reticles (I own the iOptron) are OK to set up in blue hour when the north star is prominent, but take a lot of trial and error in a sea of bright stars once theyre all out. Moving is a horrible pain. I can realign with the MSM laser in about 20 seconds, and it's more than accurate enough up to 50mm. It's amazing for backpackers and people who want more than one shot like me. My conclusions : MSM for landscapes every time. iOptron for deep sky long lens work and set up early.
I prefer Syrp's motion timelapse gear. The Benro I've not tried, but I'm skeptical it could replace my favorite heads for day in day out work or my timelapse kit from Syrp. I'd love to be proven wrong, but I'm pretty picky about heads and motion control gear.
If we had registered for the Zoom Meeting for the Office Hours when it was previously scheduled, do we need to register again for the new date?
Thanks! Looks like a great lens. The star cluster you captured is the Beehive, aka Messier 44, in Cancer. If you want to be more accurate with polar alignment, aim the MSM about a laser beam width or two away from Polaris in the direction of the end star in the handle of the Big Dipper. Polaris is about 2/3rds of a degree off the true celestial pole. Clear skies!
Tis true, but not really an issue under 20mm in reality. :)
True enough. Accurate alignment becomes more an issue 35mm and longer and with longer exposures, and when shooting multiple frames to stack. It’s just that it’s just as easy to align a smidgen off Polaris in the right direction, at least with practice. I will read with delight all the tales of woe people will have when trying to use (if and when they get it) their spanking new Benro tripod head that promises to do it all automatically and precisely. We shall see!
I'm very very skeptical
I need a little guidance. First...I really enjoy the series. I'm on my 11th Nikon in 47 years having upgraded from my D700 to the Z6 II. I try to shoot with a crop in mind...add a bit more to the scene and, if necessary, crop to fit a print (5x7, 8x10, etc.). I try to think in 35mm film terms. I shot a great picture of an old restored Ford truck. The grill with the Ford logo and the "teeth" that the grill formed was great...until I went to make a print. I shot/cropped to close to fit any standard print format. In looking at the reference material for the camera, I can't find anything that gives me a clue as to where the "35mm" frame is. Everything refers to the autofocus zone. There are 4 red corners that delineate the autofocus area but there's a lot more in the viewfinder frame. Should I consider the corners the 35mm frame. Suggestions folks! Thanks again for this great service. Working for a major airline, I get to PDX quite a bit as one of my pilot buddies owns a vineyard in Hood River. Great area for photography.
those red corners totally depend on the AF mode. Yes the corners of the viewfinder or LCD are the corners of the 35mm frame. You can program a button to clear the screen, but it's not in the display options. That's a complaint of mine as i do my long term review. I don't want to burn a button for that clear view option. Just know that the edges are the 35mm frame and there is usually some bit of data overlying that frame.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks! I guess that from now on, I need to "back out" a bit and leave a bit of room for a "35mm" type print. I can always crop a bit but it's kinda hard to add something that's not there!
Is that z7ii better than the D850 to photograph a wedding with a field of view of stars like this?
Oh yeah. Once you use any of the new mirrorless Nikons' EVFs in the dark, you'll never go back to a Dslr for low light. I can focus the Z7ii on a bright star in pitchblackness and I can see to compose the landscape with the Z9's starlight view on a tripod. It's flat nuts.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto do you have Instagram ?
I no longer get email notices for your ATS vids. How do I re-subscribe? Thanks!
Hitting this link should do it. :-) eepurl.com/dhO3HL
Thank you for very informative video. Regarding light pollution, look at a new Astronomic clip in filters for Nikon Z. They are great.
Kase clip ins are nice too. I'm a big fan of the NiSi and Kase 112s though.
How does the 14 to 30 f4 compare. Would you be more inclined to use the 14 to 24 or a panno on the 20mm. I have the 14 to 30 and the 20mm, and I am think of trading for the 14 to 24, but a little concerned about weight and filter cost
I think the F4 lenses would now work great with this set-up. The 2.8s were great when you didn't have star tracking because you had to get every bit of light out of the lens possible. But with longer exposures possible with this system, F4 should be fine!
I was out with Hudson when he captured that beach milkyway shot he showed in the video using my 14-30 F4 on the MSM tracker. The images came out really nice but the down side was a 300 second exposure at F5.6. If you're using Long Exposure noise reduction you are looking at 10 minutes between exposures. I was loosing patience. I share your dilemma on the 14-30 and 20 f1.8 vs the new 14-20 mainly on the filters.
👍👍
The windmill farms are not about power generation. They are about driving weather
The star trackers name please ?
Ha! :) I say it about 25 times in this video and link it in the description: bit.ly/MSM-HHP
So why shoot with the Z7II when the Z6ii has less pixels and thus wider photo receptors for the low light work? It has been widely acclaimed has a killer camera for night work.
just resolution I suppose.
@@SpaklesDr I don’t agree, because you are also introducing way more noise with the higher resolution.
Not at 500 iso with the star tracker for 180seconds. Under 800 iso is a toss up for noise. Before the tracker, I'd use the 6 every time. With the tracker I don't worry about noise, since I can go for minutes at low iso with pinpoint stars still, whenever I can keep the iso low, give me the 7 please.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have both the Z6ii and the original Z7 plus the MSM. I will be doing a month of night photography this summer in Utah and your video is making me rethink my approach. I was planning on using the Z6ii for a majority of the night photography, Would the same technique with the Z7 still hold with the ambient temperatures are a bit higher at night? We are talking Late June into July in Capitol Reef NP.
The z6ii will be a bit better at low light focus and has the awesome extended shutter speeds, but the 7 will give you lots more resolution on the move shoot move and noise is not an issue that way. Just be careful focusing. The sensors are built to stay hot in summer temperatures filming for long periods in video mode. Not an issue in either camera.
Hi,
I have been a fan of your videos. Love the topics and format you cover them in. Do you have a video on using the MoveShootMove star tracker. I recently purchased one. Thanks
I haven't done a detailed training on it, but I'm going to do a course on it very soon. If you have questions don't hesitate to email me.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto thank you very much. I will take up on the offer. Waiting on a second ball head.
Which MSM star tracker kit option would you recommend (have a ball head already RRS BH40) that would give me the ability to photography a sharper Milky Way as it moves across the sky . Normally during the course of a MW shoot I move around to at least 2-3 location for foreground options.
Hey there, it's affiliate linked in my videos descrption age in the night section here: www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks get the B kit with just the laser. That's all you need.