Well the detail is in the detail. It reminds us how complex these tools and processes are. We think we know until we test and try. Thanks for the honest feedback on the comments Dean.
I've had a toolpost grinder for quite a while, but I have been too afraid to use it. I really need to give it a try. I really enjoyed this group of videos.
Good one Dean . That headstock has good alignment . I do the same test using alooominum & HSS , therefore negating any tool pressure flexing the bar away & giving a false reading . Cheers 👍
I've been making a backplate for an 8 inch 6 jaw PB chuck and its been hard. One thing I did learn is that you need to have a small gap between the back of the chuck and flat face of the spindle nose. I can not find the clearance figure required. Maybe 10 thou. But a gap is required so when you tighten the 3 cams the chuck up on to the taper. Locking it properly. Maybe check the gap on a known good chuck. Also grind your the jaws in situ, chucked up, when you have finished
Thanks ! Yeah I've tried to find that gap spec. Mostly what I've come across the consensus is .001" to .002" my other 2 chucks and face plate all have different gaps 😕par for the course I guess.
Nice video, I have almost identical lathe 12X36 Dar Sin , a couple of minor differences, but it looks as though they were cast from the same pattern. Enjoyed the video and looking forward to more of the same, cheers!
I've noticed the same thing. It would be interesting to know how many are just rebranded vs a common casting. They probably don't want us to know. Thanks...ATB...
Grinding your chuck jaws will make them true in that position only. what's not right is the scroll in your chuck not being concentric/aligned. Your jaws are quite probably ground/machined very close in tolerance to each other. JMHO YMMV.
Thanks, yeah I had that issue on an old Bison with a worn out scroll. This one is independent no scroll. Adding another challenge on how to preload the jaws and hold them centered.
@@TheAyrCaveShop Worn scroll or not, bell mouthed chuck jaws hold much less securely and can contribute to chatter issues sometimes. If anyone has a grinder to do the work, then it's worth doing even with seriously worn internals. And let's face it, no scroll chucks any of us can afford are ever truly accurate. If you want or need high precision and repeatability, then this isn't the work holding method you should be using. In reality scroll chucks are a modern convenience. Long before they were invented, there still wasn't anything they couldn't turn in one way or another. A lowly face plate with a decent indicator can be a whole lot more accurate than even a 4 jaw independent for short work. And no scroll chuck can match the repeatability or precision between centers turning is capable of when the work needs to be rotated end for end. Yeah there old school methods, but they still work as well as they ever did.
I always love the people that say you should have just bought a decent...stop wasting your time. Learning is never a waste.
Thanks Robert ! Yep I need to lean and if I can avoid throwing in the scrap heap, it's a win win.
Of course it's a cheap chuck. But fixing it is part of the fun. After all, it's a hobby.
Yep learning something new and having fun..
Thanks Michel 👍👍
hi Dean
Its never a waste of time, you always gain experience, and it's part of the hobby were in
see you next time
atb
Kev
Thanks Kev !
Amazingly good work there Dean. And thanks for dropping by we enjoyed visiting with you and your missus. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
We really enjoyed the visit as well !!
Well the detail is in the detail. It reminds us how complex these tools and processes are. We think we know until we test and try. Thanks for the honest feedback on the comments Dean.
Thanks Paul !
I've had a toolpost grinder for quite a while, but I have been too afraid to use it. I really need to give it a try. I really enjoyed this group of videos.
Thanks Robert !
I'm new at it but thanks to YT and advice from others I'm having good success. The grinding dust is the down side.
Gday Dean, the amount of skill and knowledge learnt is worth more then anything, you’ve really done a fantastic job here mate, cheers
Thanks Matty, I spent quite a bit of time researching this one and the rabbit hole is very deep.
Cheers....
Enjoyed…great discussion
Good one Dean . That headstock has good alignment . I do the same test using alooominum & HSS , therefore negating any tool pressure flexing the bar away & giving a false reading . Cheers 👍
Thanks Max !
I've been making a backplate for an 8 inch 6 jaw PB chuck and its been hard. One thing I did learn is that you need to have a small gap between the back of the chuck and flat face of the spindle nose. I can not find the clearance figure required. Maybe 10 thou. But a gap is required so when you tighten the 3 cams the chuck up on to the taper. Locking it properly. Maybe check the gap on a known good chuck. Also grind your the jaws in situ, chucked up, when you have finished
Thanks ! Yeah I've tried to find that gap spec. Mostly what I've come across the consensus is .001" to .002" my other 2 chucks and face plate all have different gaps 😕par for the course I guess.
Very interesting discussion Dean, thanks from sharing the information. There's a lot for me to think about. Take care. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby !
Nice video, I have almost identical lathe 12X36 Dar Sin , a couple of minor differences, but it looks as though they were cast from the same pattern. Enjoyed the video and looking forward to more of the same, cheers!
I've noticed the same thing. It would be interesting to know how many are just rebranded vs a common casting. They probably don't want us to know.
Thanks...ATB...
I agree, best to grind the jaws. I have a grinder if you don't have one.
Thanks I also have a die grinder setup.
Grinding your chuck jaws will make them true in that position only. what's not right is the scroll in your chuck not being concentric/aligned. Your jaws are quite probably ground/machined very close in tolerance to each other. JMHO YMMV.
Thanks, yeah I had that issue on an old Bison with a worn out scroll. This one is independent no scroll. Adding another challenge on how to preload the jaws and hold them centered.
@@TheAyrCaveShop Worn scroll or not, bell mouthed chuck jaws hold much less securely and can contribute to chatter issues sometimes. If anyone has a grinder to do the work, then it's worth doing even with seriously worn internals. And let's face it, no scroll chucks any of us can afford are ever truly accurate. If you want or need high precision and repeatability, then this isn't the work holding method you should be using. In reality scroll chucks are a modern convenience. Long before they were invented, there still wasn't anything they couldn't turn in one way or another. A lowly face plate with a decent indicator can be a whole lot more accurate than even a 4 jaw independent for short work. And no scroll chuck can match the repeatability or precision between centers turning is capable of when the work needs to be rotated end for end. Yeah there old school methods, but they still work as well as they ever did.