Boat Fuel Sender Replacement - Sea Ray Sundancer
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2023
- Shortly after we bought our 1998 Sea Ray 370 Sundancer last year, I discovered that the starboard side fuel sender wasn't reading correctly, so I decided to replace it. Normally, this would be/should be a very straightforward process, but due to a faulty replacement unit, it became a three week long exercise in frustration.
Ultimately, I sourced another replacement unit which fixed the issues. Again, the job is quite straightforward and this video shows all the steps I took to get the job done.
Here's a link to the Moeller Marine Products, Fuel Tank Sending Unit I purchased through Amazon; amzn.to/44wVdLb
(* Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases via links).
For a look at all of the projects I've done (continue to do) on this beautiful Sea Ray Sundancer, as well as on our previous boats, have a look at nearly 100 projects in my 'How I Did It - Boat Repairs And Upgrades' playlist, here; • How I Did It - Boat Re...
Be sure to check out the rest of our 'Summer Cruise 2022' series, as we cruised for 5-1/2 weeks through much of Ontario, Canada's lovely 240 mile/386 km Trent Severn Waterway and even reaching the Rideau Canal for a few days! Full playlist can be found here; • Summer 2022 Cruise
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Filmed June, 2023.
Boat Specs;
- Model: 1998 Sea Ray 370 Sundancer
- Length (bow to transom): 37-6", LOA (with factory swim platform): 40'-1"
- Beam: 12'-7"
- Engines: 2 x 7.4 litre (454 Cubic Inch) Mercruiser Bluewater, Multi-Port fuel injection, gasoline,
raw water cooled, rated at 310 HP
- Transmissions: 2 x Borg Warner Velvet Drives, in Vee-Drive configuration
- Performance: Average cruising speed 22MPH on plane @ 3,200 RPM
- Dry Weight: 17,000 lbs
- Fully Loaded Weight: Boat + Fuel (1,664) + Water (580) + Gear (1,250 +/-) = 20,500 LBS
- Fuel Capacity: Twin tanks with combined 275 U.S. gallons ~ 1,040 litres * Usable Capacity 261 US Gallons ~ 989 litres
- Freshwater Holding Tank Capacity: 70 US Gallons ~ 58.3 Imperial Gallons ~ 265 litres
- Poop Holding Tank Capacity: 40 US Gallons ~ 33.3 Imperial Gallons ~ 151 litres
- Draft: 32”
- Dead Rise: 20 degrees
- Generator: Westerbeke 7.2 Kw BCGTC @ 60 Hz, gasoline powered & carburated, 3,600 RPM continuous engine speed
- Dual reverse cycle heating/air conditioning units, 19,000 (total) BTU (12 + 7)
![MORTAL KOMBAT 1 - KOMBAT PACK 2 REVEAL TRAILER!! [REACTION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Mi2M58zEQVc/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice one Paul. Always so frustrating when a simple project turns into a pain… especially when you’re supposed to be using the boat, not fixing it… Cheers!
And even more especially when the first two attempts were right after work in hot sweaty days. Figured I would be smart and do the dirty work while still in my grubby work clothes, but still no luck.
Oh well, all fixed now and on to the next project on the never ending list. . .
Thank you Paul. I now have courage to replace my starboard fuel sender unit. Like yours it never rose past 3/4
You can do it!
Let us know how you make out 👍
When I started watching this video I kept hearing that AC pump turning on and off and thought to myself, man my pump is loud!!!! I kept muting the sound and figured out it was part of your video at about the time the warning flashed on the screen it was your pump. Nice video!
Yes, all three days of this project were really hit, so the A/C was working overtime. Luckily the pump is barely noticeable when the engine hatch is closed and cockpit carpet back in place.
Thanks for sharing how you did it. You inspire confidence in others.
Nice to hear that. The whole reason I started filming and sharing my projects is so that they might help someone with similar issues. And by the feedback on just my Vacuflush projects is any indicator, they are well received indeed.
Did mine this year on my 1986 340 Express Cruiser. They seem to be working great now. I just took the ground and put it on the screw like the old one was and bypassed that spade connector. Also… I used the same brand sender as you.
Good to hear that you used the same sender and that it's still working well. I don't foresee any issues with the newest new one, as I put a similar one in our 330 Dancer a few years ago and never had a problem.
Paul. first test I would have done, is to swap the connections over of the 2 gauges. If the problem moves to the other gauge, then the sender or wiring is the issue, If it stays the same, then I would suspect the gauge
👍
You have a lot more patience than me Paul! I enjoyed the pics from the first Searay while you told the story. Glad you had a happy ending to this project!
Ya, I figured some would like the old pics of our old/first Sea Ray. I still wanna do a video showing all of our boats over the years, but some viewers might get bored with the fact that most of them have been Sea Rays 😂
Thanks for another very informative HIDI video. (How I Did It). I have not yet had to change one, but now I know a few tricks to help handle it!
Glad I was able to offer some insights on this project. Had the first replacement unit worked, it would have been a lot quicker getting the video out 😂
Always appreciated hope you are enjoying the summer on the boat
Yes we are. Thanks Randy.
Thanks for such a detailed video, I was even going to say that screw/bolt looks dodgy, then you explained that you were wary too but not an issue due to pickup level , and your projected longevity 😊
Fingers crossed, it will stay together for the duration of our time with this boat...
Great vid. Love this stuff.
My uncle in Port Huron had 5-6 new SeaRays from 1977 thru 1990’s.
His 77-78 (?) had the exact same floating foam issue with the gas tank. Couple scary moments when the boat would quit in the middle of the St Clair River.
He said if it sat for a half hour - it would fire right up….all good again- temporarily. Dealt with it for a couple years then traded it in.
Yes, that was the exact same issue we were having with our 1976 Ray. Thankfully, it wasn't on the fast moving St. Clair River, just on our big Lake - in calm conditions.
We bought our Sea Ray Sedan Bridge on LSC and drove her home, via the St. Clair River and then through Lake Huron & beyond. We were held up by a race on the river during our voyage, having to fight that current for about an hour before we could pass through. I learned two things that day; the Sedan Bridge didn't like the wind, and boat races in the middle of a busy river are just plain crazy.
Yessir, St Clair River & the big lakes are not very forgiving. Lots of wind.
International Powerboat Races on the River. We volunteered as one of the corner boats on the track. Still have the big pink flags & poles in the garage that we strapped to the arch of our boat. It was absolutely nuts having those boats go by at full whack……😅😅😅😅
Same exact thing happened to me!! Returned the more expensive one and got the Moeller, worked fine!!
Sounds like they had some defective ones apart from the one I had.
Great video. My 400SB starboard fuel tank gage is similar but I don't think I've ever filled the tank. At 175 gallons for each tank I usually only split 100 gallons between the tanks when we do a harbor tour and stop by the fuel dock. My favorite pastime is parallel parking the boat at the fuel dock to spend 750 bucks each weekend. 😁
I feel your pain. Don't know where that illusive gas dock is that you referred to, but take solace in the fact that gas is posted at roughly $7.00 per us gallon/3.8 litres (with exchange) right now for us. That's over $11.00 per imperial gallon (4.5 litres) in Canadian funds 😩
What an ordeal man! Glad to see you got it fixed. I've used SeaChoice stuff in the past and had pretty good luck, but ya never know with that stuff.
An ordeal of frustration and second guessing on my part. You know that feeling, when you're sure you've done everything correctly and still it don't work 🤔
Fingers crossed that the new, new one stands the test of time. . . Or at least the next ten years that we own this boat 😉
I knew something was wrong when your video was half over and you thought you were done! 2 others thoughts - First, that panel is awesome. I don't have access to the top of my tanks I don't think without some major headaches. Also, loved the story about the styrofoam...it actually has saved you tens of thousands of $$ in the long run. Cheers!
Yes, the removable panels are really handy and much appreciated when I'm doing anything more than basic engine checks, etc.. That said, the two removable ones (one on either side of the engine room area cockpit floor) are super heavy, hence my only moving the one pictured in the video out of the way. If I wanted to open the centre panel (operated mechanically), I'd have to take that 'loose' one right off the boat.
No complaints, but it's hard on my already damaged back and add in my poor balance, only adds to the grunts and groans for this old guy 👴😂
And yes, that styrofoam issue was a prime motivator to get into working on and fixing our boat(s). Perhaps one day I'll tell the story of the very first oil change Anchor Girl and I did on the boat. Oh boy 😩
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo I hear that.
Permeated used to make a white fuel resistant sealer we used at the boat shop for this.
I don't know what you are talking about...
good DYI video, thanks
Thanks, but remember that it's not a 'DIY', rather it's how I did it 🤪
Thanks a lot Paul! I replaced my sending unit with that same Seachoice one last fall. There goes my confidence in it! 😂
D'oh! Well, the 2nd replacement looks identical to the SeaChoice unit, so I guess we're in the same boat. . . So to speak 😂
Let me know if you have any issues with yours. You know that if I do, it'll end up here in the channel.
Hello Paul. Thanks for the video. I have a few questions. Before you installed the first sending unit, why didn't you wire it up and move the arm and look at your gauge to see if it moved? Second, did you happen to measure the voltage coming into the unit? I think you checked the resistance (don't remember if you stated that)? Anyway, I have the same problem and I think I will check mine before I install it in the tank. Also, when I checked the voltage at the wires, I measured 7.5V. Not sure how this can be as I assume it's hooked to my 12V batteries. Do you remember if the instructions specified connecting using 12V? I'd check my other tank but have no idea where it's at (can't begin to see it).
Thanks
Greg at Macray Harbor (I know you know where this is at LOL).
Hi Greg at Mac Ray Harbor 😉 Yes, I'm very familiar with that spot - a place that Anchor Girl and I talk often about returning to some day. . .
As for the first replacement sender, no, I didn't do a pre-installation check, nor look at the voltage. As it was brand new out of the package, I had no reason to expect anything but proper working. As for the voltage, the old unit was technically working, just not as accurate as it should have been - with the inspection after it came out showing evidence of breakdown. So, a voltage check was something that I didn't feel prudent.
That all said, I am not familiar with what the voltage might be, but I'd suggest that the full 12 volts might not be a requirement for the sender (at the unit). I'm sure the Google Machine would have more insights on that subject.
As for the location of your port side tank, it's probably located where ours is in the 370, which is just ahead of the forward bulkhead, port side. Ours extends almost to the back/side of the galley fridge, as I believe Sea Ray did that to (on our 370) accommodate the 💩 holding tank, Vacuflush pump and five batteries. I believe access to the sender is through the floor of the deck, via the portside cabinets. That's how it was on our prior 330 Dancer (sender replacement video in my channel).
You can always connect the wires to the new float switch and test it. This way you know it’s working before installing. I would setup a camera and record the fuel gage with acc on.
Next time 😉
I just asked Paul the same question. Should have read the comments first.
Did you put your ohm meter on the “new” broken one to test it?
No I didn't. Got a full credit back on it, so no extra cost. As basic as those things are, I figured it was a non user serviceable part, so trying to work out what was wrong with it wasn't worth my extra effort.
I have a 23 Crownline and at full tank it always reads 3/4 full.
Not sure why a new boat would have this issue but it does. What tests can I run before going into full replacement mode ?
You can check the wiring connections or resistance with an ohmmeter, but as the boat is virtually new, I'd start by having the dealer/manufacturer take care of it. I'm thinking that the boat has gotta be under warranty still. . .
No steel will rust ever if it’s submerged in gas or oil.
👍